The New $1 Fix for Broken 552 & 1090 Bowflex SelectTech Weight Plate Tabs

In September 2020 I published a $1 Fix video for SelectTech weight plate tabs. This is an update with what I believe to be a better solution for about the same cost.
If you've broken one or more tabs on your Bowflex SelectTech weight plates, don't waste money by buying used plates that will eventually fail as well. With a little elbow grease and some common tools you can permanently fix your plates and make them Better Than OEM (tm).
Please note that there are countless styles of weld nuts with various tabs, flanges, projections, etc. I showed a very specific 5/16" weld nut obtained at a True Value franchise store (it's a hardware store chain in the U.S.). That happened to be a perfect fit for a 3/8" drill bit. If you purchase a different style or size of weld nut your installation may vary as far as drill bit sizes, and cutouts in the plastic that covers the plates. Any questions, shoot me an email at the address shown below.
If you own the older version of weight plates with the plastic covered tab your center mark to drill the hole can be calculated as follows: 18 - 0.5 (bolt head width in mm).
Cheers,
Average Joe
𝗙𝗢𝗥 𝗔𝗩𝗘𝗥𝗔𝗚𝗘 𝗝𝗢𝗘 𝗣𝗥𝗢𝗗𝗨𝗖𝗧 𝗜𝗡𝗙𝗢 𝗔𝗡𝗗 𝗣𝗥𝗜𝗖𝗜𝗡𝗚, 𝗩𝗜𝗦𝗜𝗧:
www.averagejoeinnovations.com
𝗙𝗢𝗟𝗟𝗢𝗪 𝗢𝗡 𝗜𝗡𝗦𝗧𝗔𝗚𝗥𝗔𝗠:
/ average_joe_innovation...
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[𝗗𝗜𝗦𝗖𝗟𝗔𝗜𝗠𝗘𝗥: Bowflex®, SelectTech® trademarks are property of Nautilus®. Nautilus/Bowflex have had zero involvement with the development of AJI product upgrades. They aren't affiliated with AJI in any way, and AJI product upgrades are in no way endorsed by these companies.]

[@AverageJoeInnovationsLLC]

PLEASE NOTE: there are countless styles of weld nuts with various tabs, flanges, projections, etc. I showed a very specific 5/16" weld nut obtained at a True Value franchise store (it's a hardware store chain in the U.S.). That happened to be a perfect fit for a 3/8" drill bit. If you purchase a different style or size of weld nut your installation may vary as far as drill bit sizes, and cutouts in the plastic that covers the plates. But the same basic approach still applies. Any questions, shoot me an email at [e-mail]

[@GlockJ]

I liked and subscribed I was wonder how can I fix the little bottom metal piece at the bottom of the base it got pushed in a bit how can I fix this

[@steveneville229]

I had a loose bottom rivet (top ok) on my 552s on the heaviest plate and was worried about the plate falling off (it was, which turned out to be a different problem in the assembly that Joe helped me fix too!). This video, along with amazing advice via email, gave me everything I needed to fix the problem. Highly recommend Joe...he's an expert and so helpful.

[@TheHackingWeasel]

Amazing

[@dep2kat]

YOU ROCK!

[@AverageJoeInnovationsLLC]

Awww, thanks! I appreciate that.

[@stevensobers718]

Hello there. Thanks for all the countless hours spent on fixing these dumbells so they are SAFE to use. My question is, do we send you our existing dumbells to have you fix. Or do you send the kit to us? My 5-15lb plate on my 1090 keeps galling off. Thanks ag😮ain.

[@AverageJoeInnovationsLLC]

Hi, Steven. My pleasure. This is one of those bittersweet situations. On one hand, I'm glad to be able to offer ways for fellow SelectTech owners to fix their dumbbells just as I fixed my own. On the other hand, I really wish Bowflex would step up and just improve their dumbbells from the start. Who knows, maybe they'll eventually see videos like mine and decide to redesign their SelectTechs from the ground up with greater durability and safety in mind. We shall see. I don't do the repairs. I just don't have enough bandwidth. This business is still primarily just me. So I currently sell the DIY kits which you can install by following the steps in my installation video playlist here on KZbin: kzbin.info/aero/PL-pg9u1pis_EWPeCLvN-DHjDIlbsEf74f Cheers, Joe

[@libertyresurrected7406]

that dial looking perty good ngl

[@AverageJoeInnovationsLLC]

Thanks man! After several delays I'm planning to film the dial update shortly (a week or less).

[@jessicavotran]

Subscribed

[@AverageJoeInnovationsLLC]

Awesome! Thank you :-) I've been up to my eyeballs with product development, but I have a couple new videos planned over the next two weeks.

[@evilballer]

that’s awesome

[@AverageJoeInnovationsLLC]

hopefully you never need to do this fix, but if you do, I hope this serves you well. Thanks for watching man.

[@kenlaidlaw7570]

The plastic shells broke on 4 of my series one plates, my quick fix was to wedge a flathead screwdriver in and pry up the metal tabs about a millimeter or 2 to make up the difference of the missing shell.

[@AverageJoeInnovationsLLC]

Hey hey Ken...awesome man... you figured out the pry method. For those who might be wondering what Ken means, here's a video explanation: kzbin.info/www/bejne/hmjWmKCZjdJpbNE There are a couple drawbacks to it compared to the bolt method...but it beats buying new plates.

[@chriscapute6778]

Any links or recommendations as to where these 5/16 weld nuts can be purchased? I've checked all local hardware stores and they do not have them stocked.

[@AverageJoeInnovationsLLC]

Heya Chris, up here in the Northeast I'm able to get them at the local Rocky's/Ace hardware stores which seem to carry many of the more unusual and harder to find parts. I've seen them on eBay in packages of maybe 20, possibly as few as 10 pieces. People list them by many names whether they're correct or not: weld nut, slab nut, flange nut, projection nut. etc. At some point I may just end up stocking them so folks don't have to go hunt around for them. An alternative to using a weld nut would be to epoxy the bolt into a close-fit clearance hole. I didn't cover it in this video, but it's definitely a viable alternative. I just preferred the removable nut/bolt combo. You can look up the "clearance hole" diameter for any bolt online. For example, you'd use a P drill bit for a "close fit" clearance hole for a 5/16-18 bolt. Then just apply your epoxy generously on the threads and under the head of the bolt, push it in the hole, rotate the bolt to the proper orientation (if you use a hex head style), wipe away the excess and let it cure. No matter which method is used, you might have to file/shape the head of the bolt a little afterward depending on the bolt head size and accuracy of the hole.

[@AverageJoeInnovationsLLC]

Hey Chris, I just double checked another option as well. An M8 bolt and weld nut should work. An M8 bolt head is very close in size to 5/16" bolt head. Both measure around 12.7x mm flat to flat. And here are the weld nuts on Amazon: www.amazon.com/uxcell-Carbon-Steel-T-Shaped-Projection/dp/B07KWWWS27

[@chriscapute6778]

@@AverageJoeInnovationsLLC I've acquired both 5/16 and M8 hardware, and I believe both will do the job quite well. I'm leaning on the 5/16 due to the weld nut being zinc coated vs the m8 weld nut being uncoated. Related question: if I am able to use the "pry method" of the original metal tab (saving me the effort of drilling etc), is there any concern that the metal tab will be weakened and vulnerable to failure?

[@AverageJoeInnovationsLLC]

@@chriscapute6778 Definitely wise to go with something that's more resistant to environmental factors. The pry method should not weaken the tab, at least not in any significant way. You'll only need to pry it outward a millimeter or two at most. As long as you aren't repeatedly prying and pressing it back and forth to adjust it you'll be ok. But prying will further alter the distances between the tab and the adjacent disc. The combination of missing plastic cover and new tab angle means the plate will probably feel a bit more loose in the handle. As long as the tab is outward enough to secure the plate, but not so much as to interfere with the disc, you'll be ok. That plate will just shift around more as you go through your ranges of motion. I definitely prefer the bolt method as a long-term solution even if it's a bit more involved. The steel used by Bowflex is easily drilled. The key is getting the hole centered to make sure the face of your bolt lands at about that 18mm mark. But, even if you're off slightly--let's say your bolt face lands at 19mm--you're still able to remove a little material from the bolt to get the right fit. The main reason I like the bolt method (on the heavier plates) is that it's less likely to gouge the discs over time. Prying on the lighter plates works fine. But you can always try the pry method first, and change your mind later if you don't like it. Hope this was helpful. Have a great weekend man!

[@ArbJunkAgeG]

Still waiting for updates on your metallic dials... Take your time tho

[@AverageJoeInnovationsLLC]

Hey hey Arb, hope you saw the notification for the dial video I published a few days ago. If not, check out the latest channel video for that update.

[@phatalextran]

bro with all this upgrade and great hack. why wouldnt you just just put together a brand new set and sell a set rather all this DYI> im sure it will would come out less then a brand new 552.

[@AverageJoeInnovationsLLC]

Hey Alex, great question man. There are a bunch of reasons behind why things are the way they are currently. All these little fixes began life as mods to my own dumbbells. And quite a few customers are just looking for one or two repairs to their existing dumbbells without having to re-invest in whole new ones. So even though I make a bunch of mods, they may only be interested in one or two. At the moment at least, I don't have the $, space or manpower to store, sell and ship entire pairs of dumbbells. I can ship little DIY kits relatively easily and fit dozens of kits in the space occupied by a single pair of dumbbells. That and the margins on kits are better than the margins on whole dumbbells. Especially at my super low volume that I sell today. Selling entire dumbbells would not be profitable. It would be a totally different story if I was selling a thousand pairs a month. Another issue is patent related. You as a dumbbell owner have a right to repair/improve your dumbbells. And I have a right to make and sell replacement parts to you for the repair/improvement of your dumbbells. Things become murky when you put all those components together into finished dumbbells and sell them. Overseas knockoff manufacturers get away with selling direct ripoffs because they know it's virtually impossible and incredibly expensive for a foreign OEM to effectively pursue them. I don't have the desire or the $ to go down that rabbit hole. I believe BF's parent expires next year, but even then it's just not an avenue I'm interested in pursuing. Instead, my plan is to eventually release my own original adjustable dumbbell design to compete with existing designs. For now I simply find ways to improve existing designs to help people get more out of their existing fitness equipment investments. Thanks for the question, Alex. Cheers, Joe

[@dietrickturney911]

I used a drill press and drilled out the top tabs on plates 3-5 on my 1090 plates. I then used a weld nut and a bolt as stated in the video. The dial now catches. It will not fully rotate. Dial is catching on something I cannot see. Any ideas?

[@AverageJoeInnovationsLLC]

Hiya, Dietrick. Super happy to hear that you've invested some time into this fix. Once you've got the bugs worked out, it's unlikely that you'll ever need to touch the repairs again. Here are a couple things to inspect to find your source of interference that prevents the dials from turning: First, it's important that the lower edge of your bolt (the portion that comes into contact with the adjacent disc) is positioned at no more than 18mm from the plate inner edge (shown at 13:18 in the video). I like to verify each plate modification individually to ensure that there's no interference (as I do at 14:40). If you find that the edge of the bolt is interfering with the disc, you'll need to file or grind it down slightly to provide clearance. Not too much clearance. Just enough that the disc rotates smoothly past the bolt head. Then inspect each plate to ensure that the heads on the bolts aren't too thick. In the 4-4.5mm range will usually be ok (14:19 in the video). That's enough material to "catch" the disc lip and retain the plate in the handle, but not so thick that the bolt interferes with the disc. Finally, inspect the back side of each plate to make sure that your repair is flush (16:30). It should not protrude beyond the plastic covering of the plate. If it protrudes it'll interfere with the neighboring disc. I suspect that you're dealing with the first issue. Do what I do at 14:40 to check for interference, one by one with your plates. Shoot me an email if you have more questions Cheers, Joe

[@dietrickturney911]

@@AverageJoeInnovationsLLC I will grind down the bolt heads later today and see if that helps. Thank you for your response!

[@MindfulProsperity-ICU]

Can you just replace the old style plates with the new plates

[@AverageJoeInnovationsLLC]

By "old style" do you mean the plates that have the plastic covered steel tabs? I've not tried it, but hypothetically speaking, it should be possible so long as the plates are from the same model. I don't believe they've changed the dimensions of the plates. If you're doing it for aesthetics, the newer plates do look a little nicer, but if you're doing it for durability, they aren't going to be any more durable than the old style. Cheers, Joe

[@Ferbocarbo]

I feel like I want my OEMs to fail just so I can buy your disks and de this mod 😅 don't want to spend that amount of money but would feel nice to know they are bulletproof and stop waiting for something bad to happen

[@Ferbocarbo]

What I'm not looking forward to with the 1090s is having to measure the bolt's head and dividing by two, then substracting that to the 18mm, then perfectly centered mark the hole, then drill. Sounds like a lot of steps that could add to having a hole that doesn't work at the end 😂

[@AverageJoeInnovationsLLC]

Hi Elpin. You're working with the older version of the plates? Don't sweat getting it absolutely perfect. The entire SelectTech is built on imprecision. If you overshoot and your bolt's flat bottom edge is beyond 18mm you can grind/sand it back a smidge. It need not be precisely 18. 18 is just optimal. If you find that your dial turns a bit tight, take a little off the bolt's lower face. Let's say you accidentally undershoot and the bolt face measures 17mm. It's still perfectly safe and will function just fine. You'll just get a little knock/click/rattle as that plate moves as you go through your range of motion. Given how noisy the SelectTechs can sometimes be, you may not even notice it. Measure twice, drill once and all that jazz. Compared to buying new plates, it's worth a shot unless it just isn't worth your time. If you decide to give it a go, let me know how it works out for you.

[@Ferbocarbo]

@@AverageJoeInnovationsLLC Thanks for the tips! Might give it a go!

[@epistemicMaverick]

What length for the 5/16 bolt?

[@AverageJoeInnovationsLLC]

Hi, Maverick. Sorry about the delayed reply. I was away on a trip for 5 weeks overseas with limited internet access. I'm back in the States now and playing catch up with filling orders and answering questions. Length varies from plate to plate because the plates are different thicknesses. Anywhere from a 0.5-1" bolt length would be plenty. Also, think of this video as just one approach of many. You could epoxy the bolt or even weld it in position. You could use round head bolts rather than hex. The end goal being to use the head of the bolt as a replacement for the tab. Cheers.

[@justindavison54]

How much to fix all of mine I'll send them in

[@AverageJoeInnovationsLLC]

Hiya Justin. I wish I could help you here man. But I'm already maxed out just tending to AJI business operations in addition to my day job. I wouldn't want you to go through both the massive expense of shipping weights back and forth, and the potentially lengthy wait time for me to get around to working on them. The steel used in these plates is mild...cuts like butter with a decent drill and bit. If you aren't comfortable doing a job like this yourself, maybe some pizza and a couple buddies can turn this into an afternoon DIY? It's really not that bad a process once you finish the first one and get a feel for it. And once you do this fix you will never ever ever ever have to do this to your plates again. Unlike the cheap ass OEM riveted tabs or plastic-covered stamped steel, the bolts aren't going anywhere. Heck, I almost wish folks would just do this mod automatically to all of their plates and be done with it. The OEM tabs aren't safe over the long term in my opinion.

[@hooksettatv7588]

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