The Only Concrete Anchor You Need And How To Properly Install

[@EverydayHomeRepairs]

My New Favorite Concrete Anchor - geni.us/tDiumy All My Favorite Tools - geni.us/VYIp51 DISCLAIMER: This video and description contain affiliate links, which means that if you click on one of the product links, I’ll receive a small commission.

[@csimet]

I always use a thick washer that is at least 25-33% bigger than the head of the Tapcon... it just helps spread the hold across the part being secured, especially sheet metal like you show. My solution for stripped holes... always keep a spool of galvanized wire handy. Just fold a few lengths equal to the thread length, put it in the hole and re-run the screw. The screw will bite into it and press against the sides of the hole. Works every time.

[@tdotw77]

I've used zip tie 'ends' too, or small strips of wood shims or even copper wire will work too!

[@OutrageHarvester]

@@tdotw77 I use poo, but you do you

[@jerrynorris1397]

Thanks I will try that next time

[@ednakamura4245]

​@@tdotw77😅😅x.v .... ..

[@ljones226]

I rarely have good luck with Tapcons. The holes end up being to large. I will be using your tip next time, though. Thanks.

[@DavidGrapesVinyard]

I am 76 and been building things for many years, this is one of the best solutions I have run across.

[@MrJasonwoodrow]

Yep, I use Tapcons for a lot of jobs at work, or in some cases zinc anchors. I prefer the rotohammer for much faster work. One thing you may want to consider when mounting fan units are vibration dampeners. The low hum/rumble can be annoying to a lot of people and mounting on spring dampeners is a good approach to minimize the vibration.

[@shawnr771]

I have been using Tapcons and other concrete anchors for years. You stated good solid advice. Overtightening is probably the biggest mistake. It breaks the side walls. One solution is after recleaning the hole there are some masonry certified epoxys. On something like this AC. Put some in the hole and reinstall. When that expoxy sets the anchor will not go anywhere for this application. For framing attachment. Move over and drill another hole. Make sure to stay within recommended spacing. When in doubt and possible install 2. On commercial or industrial jobsites. This should be brought to the attention of the site engineer. Regular workers do not understand the loads that the anchor will be expected to withstand over a lifetime. Do not leave that to chance.

[@YUHJKT]

Excellent video. I'm a former concrete formwork carpenter. Did that from 1979 to 1997. We used the corded Bosch Bulldog roto-hammer. Or the AEG roto-hammer. Both were just phenomenal tools. Still are. Funny little fact. We'd place the 2x4 kicker down on the snap line and roto it in place. We would hammer two 16 penny nails into the hole. One was a sinker and the other a double head. That's because the placement of the kicker was temporary. It was an extremely strong hold. Roto-hammers are awesome. You could drill a 1/2 inch hole thru a 6 inch concrete wall in about 90 seconds. I would say the roto-hammer was second in effectiveness only to the skill saw. Your video was very informative, thorough and thought out. I saved it.

[@hardlyb]

I've used Tapcons and they are the easiest, but I don't use them unless I'm pretty sure I'm never going to need to remove them; I find they don't hold nearly as well on subsequent uses (and, yes, I use a new anchor). So I used them to anchor a gazebo I put in on a concrete deck, but I use wedge anchors to hold down my drill press, since I might need to move that temporarily. I also don't use them when attaching things to sandstone or soft brick, since I've seen Tapcons split that sort of material; something like a Rawl plug works better in softer stone, holds quite well, and you can remove the screw (at least once) and put it back without worrying. If you don't have an air compressor, a can of compressed air works to blow out the holes. As you say, it's essential to clean the hole, no matter what you're using as an anchor.

[@bobpiec]

I hung a deck with Tapcons 25 years ago and they are still holding. Great product great tutorial.

[@1959mikel]

Had problems using the smaller size tapcons because of drill wobble etc., so in cases like that i learned to drill a smaller hole first and then go over with proper size bit.

[@wayneeshelor639]

Smaller bit in all cases gets a better center alligment

[@dogsense3773]

Worked on alcatraz island for 25 years,doing concrete work, Tapcons were my best friends!

[@thebordernow]

Were you installing your own escape hand and footholds?... 🤣

[@rickarchuleta1]

Hey,dogsense I worked on the Russ building in SF in 98 at 33 stories, and Tapcons were my best friends too. I could see Alcatraz from the roof. From SF Towers too.

[@dogsense3773]

@@rickarchuleta1 alcatraz 1993-2018!

[@blt981]

Native SF Born Raised…did guys really escape or is that BS

[@ronnjerremy5796]

Tap Cons don't work everytime have some wedge anchors for those cases

[@cgutowski471]

This is perfect timing. I just came home from Lowes with 3/8 heavy duty tapcons to mount a new mini split on a concrete block wall. Also bought the 8” tapcon sds drill bit.

[@CJ-xk4tq]

Have been using tapcon anchors for forty years. I bought the Condrive Tool kit from Qualtool at that time and have been very happy with the ease of use.

[@edjorgensen7419]

I really enjoy your channel. I've used my share of Tapcons during the hurricane plywood wars living in an east central Florida block home. Occasionally I'd spin one and lose the threads. My fix was to stick a few pieces of heavy duty grass trimmer line in the hole. Worked like a charm and held like iron.

[@Verminator151029]

Or just crush up a couple of 221 Wagos, drop them in the hole and they'll allow the Tapcon to tighten up tighter that a Nun's box on Sunday!!!

[@RCinginSC]

​@@Verminator151029colorful explanation

[@joemendyk9994]

I would say crude. Some folks need attention.......

[@marcthibault8723]

If it straps, I use a piece of small tie wrap in the whole...

[@da324]

@@joemendyk9994 You want some cheese with that whine?

[@jackfarrell4727]

30 years ago a carpenter from Indiana named Jim taught me a great tip and I have used it ever since. Drill a 3/16 hole with a masonry bit of course, insert a piece of tie wire ( 16 gauge annealed wire, home Depot or Lowe's) and then drive a 16d common nail. Easy ,inexpensive and strong. Thank you Jim. Edit, the piece of wire should be 4 or 5 inches in length.

[@Tinyteacher1111]

That holds things into cement? A nail? Even I can do that! I have to try to secure a pergola or gazebo into an aggregate cement patio. Will that work?

[@jackfarrell4727]

@@Tinyteacher1111 yes the 16 gauge annealed wire is the key and it only works with a 16d common. It will work.

[@Tinyteacher1111]

@@jackfarrell4727 Thank you! I’m 4’9”, pushing 70, and have to secure this myself, so I appreciate your response❣️

[@jackfarrell4727]

@@Tinyteacher1111 you are very welcome. Wear safety glasses.

[@MrTungsta]

Matchstick works too lol

[@jimboalogo]

I built a 'catio' about 6 years ago and used Tapcon. I anchored the vertical beams to a brick wall and the horizontal 2x4s to the patio floor. They've held up very well.

[@joey-cn6mt]

I'm 63years old and have been using tons since they came out. I love them and have used pallets of them with no problems fast clean your dun!!

[@andrewludwig9251]

Those units come with rubber anti-vibration pads, you should slide those underneath the next chance you get.

[@gnewman18]

My guess is the rubber also helps prevent moisture from leaching out of the concrete and rusting the tie-down flanges…

[@inkdaddy66]

If it's a well balanced ac unit, you don't need the isolation pads. Not only that, the rubber won't survive the elements very long. Then you're stuck fixing unstable feet

[@NoName-sn1le]

@@inkdaddy66now that’s a comment based in lack of understanding

[@inkdaddy66]

@@NoName-sn1le ok

[@SM-vs4ro]

@@inkdaddy66 My unit (MrCool) came with rubber pads .

[@artvandelay1099]

If you have trouble with breaking Tapcons or stripping out the holes, use your drill to drive them, not your impact. I think if you read the directions it actually says to drive them with a drill and not an impact. After I started using a drill to drive them I haven't snapped one or stripped one.

[@vorant77]

EXACTLY!

[@kalijasin]

Any bolt, screw, nail, etc.. will break if you put enough force on it.

[@artvandelay1099]

@@kalijasin Well, no doubt. But Tapcons are notorious for it. It's to the point where I always thought they were a crappy product. Many of my coworkers always said that Tapcons sucked and couldn't be trusted. They would use Tapcons as a last resort. I'm just saying that once I started using my drill to drive them, my problems with Tapcons were solved. To the extent that I actually like them and trust them now.

[@drdwgmd14]

What setting should i set the drill motor to as to not apply to much torque, thanks

[@artvandelay1099]

@@drdwgmd14 I don't use the clutch settings. I set my drill to drill mode, drive until the drill stops and the Tapcon is tight. The wide part of the head firmly contacting the work piece. Workpiece firmly attached. If you're breaking them then experiment with clutch settings and find what works. My drill is an old Dewalt and it might not be very powerful anymore, but it can still drill concrete and sets Tapcons on drill mode without breaking them. I've broken exactly one since watching this video 8 months ago. I use the hex head Tapcons and a hex nut driver. Make sure to use the recommended diameter size drill stated on the packaging. If you're not in a hurry use a shop vac to suck the concrete dust out of the hole, if you don't have a shop vac or if you're in a hurry like at work or something, you might have to run the Tapcon in and out of the hole a couple times to clean out the concrete dust to get it to tighten down. But long story short, if you use the right diameter drill, use hex head Tapcons, drive them with a drill, and make sure there's not too much concrete dust leftover from drilling the hole, you'll have a 99% success rate with Tapcons.

[@CoconutPalmPictures]

If the concrete becomes difficult to drill, try using some WD-40 inside the hole. That helps a lot. After you drill the hole, use the thin red tube nozzle on a spray can of WD-40 (or generic equivalent) to simultaneously clean out the hole and lubricate it. Put the thin red nozzle all the way into the hole, then start spraying, slowly pulling out the nozzle while spraying. All the dust will come out, and the hole will be lubricated for the Tapcon. However, blue Tapcons tend to rust over time, and will snap off if you try to remove them years later. I prefer stainless steel Tapcons for that reason. Also, Tapcon, if you're reading this, please change your Phillips drive Tapcons over to Torx drive. Much better, less cam-out. Lastly, if the hole gets stripped, try putting a length of nylon cable tie in the hole to snug it up.

[@JakeStewart1343]

I like to use baby oil with drilling my holes 👍

[@dchale1]

I just removed a shed that was bolted to a concrete pad using tapcon bolts around 20 years ago. I went in expecting issues getting the bolts out. The typical stuff, snapping the heads off, etc. I had no issues and the bolts looked practically new, other than the concrete dust.

[@G-Diddy007]

I haven't had any issues with the larger tapcon screws but I have had the smaller ones snapping off half way down. Most issues have been in flagstone. Always use the recommended drill size for each.

[@TheStevedie]

I've never used the larger ones, only the smaller ones. I absolutely hate them lol. Same deal with wedge anchors mostly. I started to epoxy everything in....

[@csmall7842]

According to tapcon the threads are not intended for more than 1-1/4” embedment in the substrate. The longer screws are not to go deeper, they’re for fastening thicker materials to the concrete. This only applies to the 3/16 and 1/4 screws, the bigger anchor bolts 5/16 and up, can go deeper into the concrete for better pull out.

[@JimYeats]

100% agree with you. I HATE any Tapcon less than 5/16". They always snap.

[@DamionJR4923]

I hate tapcons also I broke to many of them and pretty much refuse to use them now. Nail anchors work better imho.

[@karlaiken2845]

The trouble with drilling concrete, is often the drill bit walks on you soon as you start drilling, This can be a real pain if you are lining up more than one hole like what you did here. So what I do is use a punch to start the hold and use a small drill bit that will set in the punch mark and drill a pilot hole. Even a new sharp drill bit will walk on you sometimes. I do like those anchors. Have used a lot of drop in anchors also, trouble with those is you need to drill a much larger hole to accommodate the anchor not the bolt.

[@KameraShy]

I have generally had very good results with Tapcons. I once used the phillips head type, couldn't get enough leverage to drive it in all the way and stripped the head. (Pulled it out with pliers.) Since then I have used the hex head only with no problems. I use a ratchet wrench which, though a little slower, reduces the chance of breakage or other problems.

[@EverydayHomeRepairs]

Yeah, I try to stay away from the phillips head concrete screws for the exact issues. I agree the hex head is my favorite but have seen solid results with the Torx head 👍

[@jeffstanley4593]

Use an impact driver with Phillips head even with regular screws into wood. Of course you have to be careful right at the last sixteenth.

[@tdotw77]

Yeah Phillips are the worst. Hex or torx always! 🛠️🔩🔧

[@richardkawucha1232]

When I replaced the aluminum lattice columns, on my front porch awning, I used Tap-Con fasteners. It was easy and they've lasted over 10 years, exposed to weather and ice melt products. I installed mine with my corded 1/2" drill/hammer drill.

[@campbellmorrison8540]

Totally agree tapcons are the way to go, not cheap but the best. Ive no idea what sort of metal these are made out of and what that coating is but they are both impressive.

[@Mark-bn7lk]

I just used some tapcons yesterday to anchor a wrought iron fence post to a drive way using angle brackets. In order to clear the hole of dust and debris I used a can of compressed air with a thin straw attached to the nozzle. This is the stuff normally used to blow dust out of computers and keyboards. The thin straw fit really well and the pressure was more than adequate to clear the holes. On first use I got a blast of dust in the face because I wasn’t expecting it to come out with that much force.

[@jodycwilliams]

I just use Tapcon's bit that is sold right next to these anchors usually. Perfect hole every single time, and these anchors are top notch.

[@curtisbme]

I always used my hammer drill for my smaller jobs and often had a lot of problems with harder spots, killing a number of bits (and my arm) as well as going through all my 5 batteries. Then I rented a rotary hammer drill after spending over an hour trying to get through 10" of concrete with my hammer drill and only getting through 2". Rotary hammer went through the last 8" like butter, taking only a minute or two. Had no idea it would be such a night and day difference. Never using a hammer drill again for concrete drilling. I was also surprised at how much quieter the hammer drill was than my drill.

[@billboyd7938]

I learned that too. It took me 1.5 hours to drill a 2" hole through brick with a hammer drill. Mainly due to having to let the drill cool down. I rented a Hilti drill to drill a 2.5 inch hole through brick. It took less than a minute. I then drilled a 1 1/4" hole in about 30 seconds.

[@datamike00]

the cordless SDS drill in my truck is easily on my top 5 tools, maybe 3

[@johnhorner5711]

Hammer drilling is one of the times I still like to use a corded plug-in version when feasible. The tool is better balanced, very powerful, and doesn't need recharging. I use cordless tools plenty, but sometimes the old plug ins are still the best.

[@kenoliver8913]

@@johnhorner5711 IAfter swearing endlessly at some concrete I had to drill with a corded hammer dril my wife bought me a brushless CORDLESS SDS drill. It is so effective (I'd estimate a minimum of 10 times faster) that I have given away my hammer drill - I only use the SDS drill for masonry. And cordless is far more convenient and safer too.

[@stevem268]

i think tapcons are the best thing since sliced bread. some great tips here! if hole strips out, i use a piece or two of copper wire to secure the screw. some use steel wire but it will rust away, even if it's galvanized

[@hassanbazzi3545]

Not a whole lot with tapcon. I found my problem that I don’t keep the drill perpendicular and causing a bigger hole. I prefer using the Red Head instead. Valuable information. Thank you for sharing

[@hilbert551]

You make very good videos. Very detailed, even when there's a potential problem. Very professional and to the point. My favorite channel for DIY. Thanks.

[@EverydayHomeRepairs]

Thanks so much for the kind words and support 👍

[@NathanHarrison7]

Awesome video. Great step-by-step explanation for the weekend warriors. Perfect cadence and content. Subscribed. Although I wish he would not have damaged the paint on that $15,000 heat pump.

[@GH-oi2jf]

I haven’t used this brand, but I have put shelves on a concrete wall with concrete screws. They are the best choice for that relatively light-duty application.

[@kenday7942]

Tapcon is the only type anchor I use now - they are very easy to use and they work GREAT!!

[@LiveHiFi]

That most common failure point of bottoming out was my first disaster too. Since then smooth sailing using tapconns. Great vid!

[@inkdaddy66]

Thank you for this video. I always use the redhead style anchors and never used tapcon. Now I'll give them a shot

[@mavirek]

This was very helpful, and so were the comments. I am not drilling straight down into concrete. I am drilling into the side of my condo through (what I assume is) stucco. I need to erect a wood frame sturdy enough to support a couple water filter housings. I think behind the exterior wall I've located one of the studs, so that hole gets a long screw to reach the stud. But the remaining holes to affix the board to the wall are what had me stumped. Do I go with Tapcon, or Rawls and screws, or something else fancy? Your demo and a lot of the comments gave me more ideas to look for at my local HF, HD, Lowes or Ace.

[@MrRightNow]

One tip I would recommend is not to tighten the bolts until you have all 4 bolts 90% or so in place. This will help preventing any possible alignment issues that could also cause your last bolts to not go in easy and even possibly strip

[@100vg]

It was 1998 or '99 when I used Tapcon Anchors to mount 2x4s (because I added outlets and light switches) to what was an outside brick wall which became an add-on room for paneling. I bought a combo, 120 VAC corded Black and Decker DR700 Type 1 switchable drill/hammer drill. I predrilled holes for the Tapcons in the boards with the holes aligned into brick, then drilled a wider hole to stop the Tapcon heads, started the Tapcon brick holes through board holes with the concrete bit, removed the boards and drilled the holes in bricks. I don't remember issues with stripped Tapcon holes. I may have drilled all the way through the bricks, but I would have known to get all debris out first if I didn't. Granted, this was brick, not concrete, but, to recollection, this was my only Tapcon usage. I still have a collection and would use them again. Thinking about it, I mounted a Split AC unit on a concrete block some years later, so I must have gotten all the drilling debris out. Great video, Scott.

[@wazzeradk9398]

I use a plastic drinking straw and a pair of safety glasses to blow out the drilled holes. Beats dragging out a compressor and works better than a shopvac!

[@garydakota6222]

This fellow is an excellent instructor. Good Job !!

[@EverydayHomeRepairs]

Thank you!

[@CharlesHess]

He uses adverbs!!! Amazing! Congratulations!

[@radinsyah1574]

I notice that the fitting into the hole made by the driver has a better snug fit compared to the one made by the rotary in hammer mode. In my experience, rotaries in hammer mode just makes bigger than intended holes although in drive mode it’s often a pain to drill into concrete. Great video.

[@robertmarshall1545]

I've used both, and have used them a lot. Tap cons for smaller things, red head anchors for i-beams and such.

[@budgetaudiophilelife-long5461]

THANKS SCOTT,GREAT INFO AND…IT IS ALWAYS GREAT TO FOLLOW DIRECTIONS 🤗👍💚💚💚

[@russellseaton2014]

I use Tapcons for attaching metal boxes and conduit hangers to cement walls. Originally used a hammer drill. Eventually I got smart and now use a rotary hammer drill and SDS bits.

[@jamesc7925]

Great video. I’ve had issues driving in Tapcons all the way and I realized I didn’t drill deep enough or clean the loose material out of the hole.

[@joeriedl2349]

I never thought to vac the holes and make them a half inch longer than the anchor. Thank you!

[@geoffreymccaleb]

I look forward to a video a year from now on how to repair a concrete base that has cracked due to vibration 😂 Said with love! Great video as always but like of vibration support was an odd one. The thing is, it's not that the fans are going to cause the unit to pitch this way or that, it's just a continuous low vibration that never stops. I installed 2 units on wall brackets (to avoid critters) and had to retro-fit dampeners after the fact because the low vibration was causing all the walls and ceilings around it to vibrate. Once I retro-fitted I cut it down by more than half. Obviously different situation here, but all that vibration has to go somewhere. And onto that pad it will go!

[@jimlong527]

Tapcon is my go to DIY especially here in Florida where high winds are common. Very few failures.

[@RJ-ej1nr]

Tapcons are great for ease and speed. Not so much if need to adjust/reuse the hole or for high strength. I use them often but know when it’s time to use something stronger.

[@palebeachbum]

I don't know what I did wrong, but my Tapcons gave me a lot of trouble. They were so much harder to screw in than what you showed. I used the recommended Tapcon drill bit size. I drilled the holes in cycles like you showed. I even stopped during drilling to vacuum the dust out of the holes. I drilled deeper holes than the length of the screw, as required. Only 2 of my 8 Tapcons were secured. The rest spun in place once fully screwed in.

[@joederochemont6219]

Great video, I have also used the screws, with a smaller bit, so I was a little confused. Thank you for talking about that subject, big help.

[@thenexthobby]

Yes I’ve had success with Tapcons … and one of your videos showed an alternative I’ve forgotten.

[@Saileahgaz]

I recently had an issue with smaller diameter tapcon screws and slightly over-sized pilot holes. I placed a plastic toothpick in the hole with great success. Someone below mentioned weed trimmer line. Would have been too thick for me, but I'll put that idea in my back pocket.

[@fritzmiller9792]

I agree that type of concrete anchor is my favorite and probably the best. Shout out to Fastenal who sold a brand (RedHead) many years before Tapcon followed suit. Maybe it was negotiated. I love the simplicity and the shear strength for vertical mounting.

[@randyosborn4942]

when doing concrete anchors and the strips. i carry a block of hardwood, take a small ribbon of the hardwood the same length of the hole, and aprox 1/4 of the hole space drop it in the hole and reset the screw, sometimes 2 pcs opposite sides will be the last go to fix.

[@kenday7942]

A very easy way to clean out the concrete dust from the drilled hole is to blow it out with a piece of tubing. I’ve also used soda fountain straw (a small, one inside of a larger one for added length.). Just be sure to keep your face shielded from the dust blast.

[@johnhorner5711]

Tapcons are my first choice as well. Thank you for the clear video instructions.

[@EverydayHomeRepairs]

You bet 👊

[@jamesmatheson5115]

I use them too, Ive used just about every style of anchor bolts, but find them the easiest and best for all light work.

[@outsideview9052]

How about sealing the holes around the wedge anchors or these Tapcon screws? I am putting in an outside hand rail into concreate and dont want moisture to get in the hole and freeze. Any tips?

[@smirkinatu5512]

Thank you for recording and posting this valuable educational video.

[@martinc6273]

Scott, another great video. Something to discuss further with your viewers is when you would normally recommend concrete anchor wedge bolts compared to concrete screws. We all have our preferences, but would like to hear your thoughts.

[@heroknaderi]

Another good video man. I enjoyed it. Very much appreciated 👍👍

[@EverydayHomeRepairs]

Thanks for the feedback!

[@kriskafowlski4463]

Thanks Scott another great video. Look forward to all of your videos. Very informative

[@ChefKevinRiese]

Here is a tip to avoid bit drift. Drill a hole in any 3/4 wood the same size as the hole for the anchor. Place it over the sharpie mark and put weight on it with your foot. Bit cant drift.

[@TheBrewjo]

They're great, I tent to avoid impact drivers for screwing in. Just use a drill set to to screw and torque out around 3/4, on the first one I might have to tweak it up or down a couple of clicks then it's perfect for the rest of the wall/slab that needs fixing.

[@Patrick-857]

You must be using really small ones in soft concrete. The ones I use most often are 10 or 12mm which is roughly equivalent to 3/8 and 1/2. My impact driver won't do them usually, I need to go to a 1/2 impact wrench to get them in. A drill would just break my wrist with no progress. You must not be a professional, because even if you can get them in with a drill, it's hard on you, and hard on the drill. I use impacts for almost all driving of fasteners, because they a lighter, faster and virtually effortless to use.

[@SihAza]

I use water when using a masonry drill bit. It cools and helps flush out the debris.

[@TheHonestCarpenter]

Good vid, Scott!

[@EverydayHomeRepairs]

Thank Ethan!

[@Sidicas]

Never did an anchor in concrete before but my first was a Tapcon and I had no problems just following the instructions even though I had no idea what I was doing.

[@JimYeats]

The ONLY Tapcons I willingly use anymore are ones that are least 5/16 or bigger. The little ones just snap so easily. The bigger ones do work well and I don't have any issue with them. I also generally squirt in some heavy duty construction adhesive into the hole depending on the project.

[@dasshape00]

I use tap tapcons with plastic wall achors. I never had one get loose like that. Old-timer showed me that trick at work 20 years ago

[@ebnhahn1993]

Great video!, I used Tapcon before. Failiure modes were drilling hole shorter than the bolt length and snapping the head of the bolt and sometimes the drill bit size matching the bolt size resulted in the bolt is "loose" and what I was anchoring was not properly anchored!!!. In that case I had to move up to a bigger size Tapcon..

[@Bob_Adkins]

Anchor bolt epoxy or melted sulphur work great for stripped Tapcons, but you need to make sure the foot is down tight against the slab.

[@jaimeriquelme6727]

Thank you for your time, it's always worth to watch them.

[@gil3green]

Always good information, expalins what i did wrong last year, I didn't vac out hole before inserting screw.

[@EverydayHomeRepairs]

Thanks for the feedback 🙌

[@kenbrown2808]

the more age on the concrete, the more likely a tapcon won't do it. they are also overkill for light duty anchoring. Walldog (tm) screws work great for the light stuff - and also for light stuff in sheetrock. addendum: if you need to level things, you also want a pinset or wedge anchor with double nuts.

[@KameraShy]

I have used Tapcons in very old, porous brick and they have held very tight.

[@kenbrown2808]

@@KameraShy that's one of the differences between clay and concrete.

[@RJ_DSRider]

I'm not a fan of tapcons. I use them to attach light loads like shelf brackets to block, but I'll stay with red heads when I need to really secure something well and not worry about it ever pulling out.

[@hebgbb]

Me too. I don't like using Tapcons. They strip and break too easily for me to trust them. I'm a contractor and I cannot have my reputation ruined by those fasteners.

[@warthogA10]

I prefer to use threaded tap inserts with bolts and lock washers for projects like this. And I apply Vaseline or other water/rust proofing to the bolts before installing. And there are also cap covers you can install which secure around the top ofbthe bolt thread and snap over the entire thing for more protection. I would have also installed rubber anti vibration pads between the feet and pad, They quiet things down as well as prevent any chance of stress inside the drilled holes over time There are also prefab pads made from better materials than concrete

[@Pseudo-Geek]

My main problem is hitting a rock in the concrete that the drill bit doesn't want to go through, so the bit takes the path of least resistance around the edge of the small rock, resulting in a slightly enlarged hole or the hole getting off my mark if the rock is just below the surface. I've used a fair number of these to mount various things to my unfinished basement walls and I probably have to relocate new holes about 1/10th of the time for this reason. Thanks for the tips!

[@Tokaisho1]

The cure to this is higher quality tougher drill bit materials like cobalt or diamond tips (downside: more expensive)

[@Pseudo-Geek]

@@Tokaisho1 Ah, thank you. I'll be on the lookout for those.

[@johndough9187]

That problem ceased for me when I got a rotary hammer.

[@Pseudo-Geek]

@@johndough9187 I use a hammer drill that's high-end consumer grade, but the bit still wanders to the path of least resistance especially when the rock is near the surface. Thanks for the tip though.

[@kenoliver8913]

@@Pseudo-Geek One solution is to turn the hammer drill to normal (ie for wood) drilling mode and press hard for a while to "grind" an indentation into the rock so the bit doesn't wander off it when back on hammer mode (I use this method to start holes in concrete too). And what johndough said - an SDS rotary drill will have enough cutting power through the rock that this problem won't happen anway.

[@allegory7638]

Keep a cup of water on hand and very frequently quench the bit to keep it cool. Heat is the enemy of these bits and ruins their hardness. Ten quenches per hole is not unheard of, beats ruining bits.

[@efenili]

The big tapcom bolts work well enough, I've had nothing but nightmare experiences with the standard screw types though.

[@mikeyh6104]

I have had the same experience. The small ones seem so snap with very modest torque.

[@markkillion8980]

I had trouble. I had some Phillips head (actually torx head) left from another job. I couldn’t get things tight with the suggested hole. I went a little larger and it was loose. I went to Home Depot and purchased wedge anchors.

[@MrCantabrigian]

I always a rotary hammer drill and Hilti fasteners, and depending on the anchoring substrate (hollow block, etc) and load calculations I make, I may use the mesh sleeves and properly specified threaded rod with structural epoxy as per Hilti recommendations. This is generally for anchoring machinery, pumps, evaporators, pallet racking, etc.

[@kenoliver8913]

That's the right way for heavy stuff, but it is overkill for this job which is basically just to stop the unit wandering about.

[@robertrada4783]

You lost 99% of the audience. But I hear you.

[@dadaustin4570]

Thx for the video - it reminded me to resecure my low deck railing

[@DumbCarGuy]

In us freezing states like MN. You might want to put epoxy in them there holes so when you insert the screw the hold stays a solid so the winter doesn't crack the concrete in half by having water in the hole.

[@rickrudd]

Because I've lived in several very old houses, MANY times I've drilled pilot holes in mortar, only to find that the sandy mortar has crumbled too much and the hole is too large. My go-to fix is inserting a small length of bare #14 wire. It fills the gap and makes the attachment super strong.

[@lawdog516]

A Zip Tie also works great

[@haydenjones1559]

Imperial always cracks me up. " A Five Thirty Seconds "

[@marsbase3729]

I know, metric is so much easier to deal with

[@rng9242]

I am a mechanical engineer, and this is my opinion. the Topcon directly screwed into the concrete, its secured depends on the quality of the concrete, if it has too much sand and gravel, the hold will be weak. The other problem is that the threads are cutting through the concrete with very shallowed threads to the root diameter of the screw and it doesn't provide a good hold if a force is applied to pull it out. I spoke to a supplier, and they recommend using and epoxy for concrete gel into the hole to provide strength. For use horizontally on a vertical wall, with a perpendicular download, it should be ok. I don't recommend the use of Topcon for heavy load or applications with pull force. the advantages of using a lead anchor are that lead is a soft metal, and the screw will push material against the concrete hole creating a tremendous amount of pressure, to pull the screw, the concrete has to break first

[@romaellodfranco72]

Great info. How would you attach the wall of a framed room addition to a cylinder wall of a house? Topcons or Exoxy anchors in the hollow block wall?

[@thebordernow]

Always a good, clear, and concise instructional video! Thanks.

[@TL-pb6sz]

Don't forget to bugger up the paint on the compressor like he shows also

[@SPACEMIKEB]

What do you do when the Tapcon snaps off below the surface? This happened to me several time before I learned to clean the hole out properly.

[@Ricksworldtv]

For stripped out holes, I use automative paste wax on the tapcon and put epoxy into the hole.

[@TheDogDad]

Good video Scott & you're looking jacked!

[@ronald5728]

For an A/C system that is so tall, I'm skeptical about using tapcon. That height would create a greater tilt force. For a normal height A/C tapcon would work great. I think Redhead anchors would be better for an A/C that tall.

[@matthewq4b]

Better than red heads are flush shells. Red heads are great for applications where they will always be in tension. But it there is risk of them getting lose flush shells are a better option.

[@Paul.Douglas]

I use the tapcons too. Haven't had a fail yet, but it's not like I've done hundreds of them.

[@AlanCarruthers-py3ny]

You should have anti-vibration feet under that unit for Airflow. Also in heating it will condense and if cold outside will probably freeze to the deck blocking the drainage and freezing the coils!

[@Brian-cr6rb]

I love tapcon. If it all goes south, plastic anchors, if all goes to hell, wedge it! Hydraulic cement can let you start from scratch as well, just takes time. Run into all situations on fixed mounting points on toilet flanges and street lights for example.

[@chriscosby2459]

I use a socket wrench to screw the anchors in. It takes a little longer but it ensures the head of the anchor is not over torqued.

[@pjb8493]

vacuuming or blowing from the top of the hole does not get all the debris out. a sufficiently small hose at the bottom of the hole can. then drop a drill bit in to verify the hole is deep enough before inserting the anchor. also do not fully tighten the anchors until starting all of them so the metal flanges can shift as needed to the bolt pattern.

[@Cosmic_Soul]

Thank you for the great tips. ❤ Are Tapcon screws as strong as Concrete Anchors that expand in ground? The 316 Stainless Steel concrete anchors snapped with little bit of extra force (my mistake), but they’re not strong either. Home Depot doesn’t sell the Grade 105 steel anchors. I am putting up used commercial grade Cubic Steel 42” deep verticals & 12’ x 4” beam for a 6’ high loft shelf in car garage. Should I anchor the feet of vertical sides? With what? Tapcon or expanding anchors?