The Precision Guitar Kits Les Paul Build Part 3

The Precision Guitar Kits build continues. In this video we are getting the grain on this beautiful flamed maple filled and getting the sealer work done. Precision Guitar Kits sent me this awesome guitar kit to work on. It has a beautiful flamed maple top, and every bit of it fits together perfectly and looks awesome.
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Don't forget to ask your questions in the comment section.
Thanks for watching.

[@davidmurray9193]

Paint job came into its own, really stunning

[@BradAngove]

Thank you David

[@rayhodgson9055]

You may want to look at Z-proxy finishing resin for pore filling. Acoustic guys use it a lot for their builds. Less drying time and works under sealer and top coat perfectly.

[@BradAngove]

Nice. This works under sealer etc. just fine, but that UV resin would certainly be fast if that’s a priority.

[@Jake28700]

You never fail to impress. Great color and finish!

[@BradAngove]

Thanks Jake

[@briansimpson8116]

I think this may be one of your purtiest works of art yet. 🇨🇦💯👍

[@BradAngove]

Thanks Brian!

[@bigkahuna100]

Seriously, your videos are the highlight of my week! That thing is looking incredibly awesome man. Cheers!!!

[@BradAngove]

Thanks man. Much appreciated.

[@marksmith-hs9li]

That colour is fantastic Brad , really nice.

[@BradAngove]

Thanks Mark

[@ceruleanguitars6281]

That wood on the back looks awesome!!! This is going to turn out to be a "Holy Crap"....look at that guitar. Well done you!!!!

[@BradAngove]

Thank you!

[@robertr4193]

The guitar is turning out quite nice. I like the color of the top and the black limba body Blank is nice as well.

[@BradAngove]

Thanks Robert

[@andrewroberts7966]

Great video again Brad, thanks. Looking forward to the next one already 👍

[@BradAngove]

Cheers Andrew

[@OnTheFritz602]

Wow, that's looking absolutely amazing!

[@BradAngove]

Thanks you!

[@TornelliGuitars]

Hi Brad, I like the decision to not use black in the first instance, I think there are times when you don’t always want the figure to ‘shout’ so loud, the way you’ve done it makes the figure more subtle which I think really works with the colour choice. Btw it was very cool of you to highlight Todd (Sweet T) in your short yesterday. It’s really nice to see bigger channels giving back a bit to their supporters and I know he holds you in high regard. Classy move Brad 👍

[@BradAngove]

Thank you; I’m glad you like the dye choice. I’d love to be able to highlight more deserving smaller channels if I had time.

[@pauldncn1]

Brad , that colour and finish is fantastic Thank you for sharing 👍

[@BradAngove]

Thanks Paul

[@hollierthanthou83]

Looking excellent!

[@danandratis]

looking real good Brad - thanks for this video project - Cheers

[@BradAngove]

Cheers Dan

[@thseed7]

Yup 🤘

[@georgebaader9817]

Build looks amazing!! Can't wait for the next video!

[@BradAngove]

Thanks George

[@rturney]

Thanks Brad for the PGK videos! Also thanks for using spray cans instead of the spray gun. I'm taking notes.

[@BradAngove]

Glad you like them.

[@billsguitargarage]

Looking really nice.

[@BradAngove]

Thanks Bill

[@ricksigurdson2016]

Very nice. I pop off my nozzles and throw them in solvent of the appropriate type and put a clean nozzle back on.

[@BradAngove]

That’s a good idea.

[@ricksigurdson2016]

@@BradAngove Only because Oxford gives you 2 nozzles per can. I have them separated fan and cone

[@grg-mpgmusic7247]

The end on shot of the black limba wood grain was awesome. Too bad it will be covered by a guitar strap or hidden while hanging up on the wall. Great piece of wood.

[@jeffreyeagen4896]

Looks awesome so far!

[@BradAngove]

Thanks Jeffrey

[@RuthlessMojo]

Hey Brad. As per usual great job. I've recently been experimenting with resin,alcohol inks (to tint the resin) and pearlised pigment powders. I lay down a coat of coloured resin then dry brush on the pigment powders while it is still tacky. You can create some amazing effects that way. Also simply placing a small amount of pigment powder on the top and then using compressed air to make it spatter creates really cool metallic clouds, perfect for a galaxy guitar or an abstract scene.

[@BradAngove]

Really cool idea.

[@davidfinn5029]

Great work mate.. loving it. The epoxy filler is a great idea. And YES amber.... yay. So when are you shipping this guitar to me in Australia... hahaha. Thanks Brad loving the series I can't wait for the final assembly and sound test.

[@BradAngove]

Thanks David. I’m glad you like it.

[@maxwellcohen2917]

Love ambering my stained projects as well. Albeit, I just let it dry long enough and hit it with tru-oil instead of an actual ambering product. It'll look sweet man. I'm jealous. Going to be procuring a customized LP Axcess kit as well eventually. Highly tempted to go the black limba route because of your guitar

[@BradAngove]

I’m glad you like it.

[@rant137]

that looks amazing, the top looks like if you took one of thoese pretty Ocean Blue epiphones and gave it a nitro finish and faded it for 20 years

[@timscarrow9151]

Make sure and weigh it when you are finished, I am curious how light the limba body is. It's very green. Be careful with your epoxy I've heard some people have (health) problems with that. Doing all the prep work, and sand and sand and sand. It's going to be a very nice finish. Time is money the more time spent the more it is worth something.

[@Terry3Gs]

Looking awesome !! :)

[@BradAngove]

Thanks Terry!

[@bjstein4242]

I stand corrected Brad.. the black would have overwhelmed this top.. the fihure is fantastic and the wetter it looks the better.. curious how you know when to stop sanding that epoxy filler so as not to breakthrough to the top..?

[@BradAngove]

It’s very difficult to know when to stop sanding. You’re really just sanding very gently so that the sealer will stick and it all feels even. With that said, if you did sand through and pull a bit of dye, that area would then be open again and you could wipe a bit of dye back into it.

[@markpell8979]

The old joke is about how hard it is to wait for paint to dry ('paint' being a generic slang term here for finishes, obviously). It's one of the hardest things to do for woodworkers when we have just one important project going and we can barely stand to wait before getting on with the next steps and eventually seeing the final product. Really, we could build and finish several guitars in the same timespan as one by efficiently sequencing the other things into what's normally downtime waiting for finish stages to dry. I'm retired as a woodworker but when people see one of my 'hobby' projects that I do for fun and to fight boredom, they tell me "You should do that for some extra income." They don't understand you can't make money that way unless a customer will pay you for all the downtime, mostly spent waiting for paint (and glue) to dry.

[@GuitarJeff]

That's really a beautiful top on that guitar that dye really made it pop. Curious question as I has an idea. I wonder if that epoxy if maybe you could paint something on the guitar before you dye it. So just clear. Maybe something like the Anarchy symbol or something. Then you apply the dye. Would that prevent the dye from soaking in that pattern. So like you could have a dyed top but have the symbol show through as clear wood. Just a though.

[@BradAngove]

Hi Jeff. Although I’ve never done it, you should be able to seal off a logo and then dye the rest and have the sealer repel the dye in that area.

[@paulhudson2293]

I am fascinated by what that factory usually makes. Looks like a massive stack of paddles or something behind you. I'm also massively impressed with how you manage to find time to make these kits and KZbin videos when I imagine your job is pretty full on. As a question on spray cans, do you warm them before you use them? I watched one tutorial that said to warm the cans in a bowl of hot water to help them spray more evenly. Is that important?

[@BradAngove]

The shop makes all sorts of stuff actually. I would take a hilarious amount of time to go through it all, but that is a stack of pizza peels for a restaurant behind me. Yeah, the day job is pretty crazy. Luckily I don’t sit still very well. It drives my wife a bit nuts haha. Heating the cans can be helpful because it expands the accelerant, but it’s not necessary if they aren’t actually cold and it’s less important on good quality cans. It’s a helpful trick, but I rarely bother with it.

[@wjewell63]

I like it man....

[@BradAngove]

Thanks

[@eh296]

Brad, what is the music in the beginning of the video? Guitar looks awesome by the way...

[@Blueshade]

That wood though....so gorgeous. Kit prices are a bit high for my budget. Are these comparable to the 2-3 thousand dollar guitars when done? That top reminds me of a PRS finish.....so nice!

[@BradAngove]

If you put in the right hardware and do a professional set up I see no reason why this wouldn’t be every bit as good as a $3k LP at the end.

[@joeyfe69]

Let's get Buzzed and paint a Train.

[@j-mo2453]

I like the stain. It’s aqua man, gotta get some amber on it. Lol

[@j-mo2453]

It’ll give it more Deppth. Lmao

[@BradAngove]

That’s the plan

[@MaxHeadroom65]

Hi Brad, is the epoxy harder or easier to do than regular grain filler? Pros and cons? Love the colour as it is now!

[@BradAngove]

It’s not harder per se. But you do want to try to remove the excess, which is less important with regular filler. Epoxy dries harder, shrinks less, and is completely clear (at least this type). It’s also considerably more expensive if I’m not mistaken.

[@JPibbs2198]

Hi Brad, just curious, after applying the epoxy, you mentioned feeling tempted to just recoat with epoxy as a main finish rather than later applying lacquer. What goes into the decision to still apply laquer over the epoxy if the epoxy has a finishing effect anyways? Thinking about this for my own project but I'll be using polyurethane rather than lacquer. Thanks!

[@BradAngove]

I just enjoy the spraying process and the feel of the lacquer. There’s nothing wrong with the epoxy option.

[@eliassanchez5864]

Hi Brad, are you using mineral spirits to wipe off the excess dust after sanding at the end of the video?

[@BradAngove]

No, that’s wax and grease remover.

[@blackbirdpie217]

Do you know if the ecopoxy yellows in uv light? That's always a problem with epoxies. Do you have any ideas as an alternative that won't show through the clear coat? I'm afraid something like crystalac might. Of course other than super glue, for an area that size I'd avoid that.

[@BradAngove]

As far as I know ecopoxy doesn’t yellow. I’ve done areas like this in superglue before though with no problems. You just need a mask and goggles.

[@STEVECAREY-xg5ck]

Have you ever used a product called solarez? Or tried it on a kit?

[@BradAngove]

No, but I’ve heard very good things about it.

[@JPibbs2198]

Hi Brad, is there any concern to be had here with air bubbles in the epoxy? Some folks I know who've worked with epoxy in the past warned me there would be air bubbles showing through if I didn't take steps to ameliorate this. Was this an issue you dealt with?

[@BradAngove]

Air bubbles can happen, especially on thicker pours. You can get them out with a heat gun. I don’t find it to be an issue for filling grain. I press the epoxy into the grain and remove the excess. Between that and sanding afterward I haven’t had to contend with any bubble issues.

[@jimthethirdprobably]

make bass next

[@clint.87]

1:13 better than that Mohawk vinyl sealer ?

[@BradAngove]

I don’t understand the question. I used the Mohawk vinyl sealer in this video.

[@clint.87]

@@BradAngove I didn't watch the whole video sorry, that epoxy stuff is just another type of a grain filler ... still need a sanding sealer or that vinyl sealer.. gotcha 👌

[@johngeddes7894]

Expand. Unify. Debunk.

[@nbdysfool3]

Very cool! I just got a bass kit and want to experiment with flat black and silver. Have you ever used these colors? You think silver paint or silver leaf would be the way to go?

[@BradAngove]

I’ve certainly used flat black. If you’re going to use silver leaf you will likely want to clear coat over it. It’s a much different effect than silver paint.

[@benoitdufresne3288]

I still don't know how black or white korina made it into guitar making. Pretty blotchy imho.

[@BradAngove]

Good thing there are lots of other options for you to choose from.

[@theshyguitarist]

Sure is a lot of gap between the neck and body.

[@BradAngove]

… wait what?

[@theshyguitarist]

@@BradAngove noticed it before you started finishing

[@BradAngove]

Noticed what? There’s zero gap between the neck and the body. It is very tight and is glued in.

[@theshyguitarist]

@@BradAngove I noticed it when you did the close up of the neck pocket area prior to sanding.

[@BradAngove]

Haha ok, I still don’t know what you purportedly noticed. But yeah, there is absolutely no gap between the neck and body.

[@guitarhobbywithdannythemedic]

I dont like the term natural binding... sounds weird..

[@BradAngove]

…ok

[@guitarhobbywithdannythemedic]

@@BradAngove because a binding is there for when you bump the guitar against the corner of the table.. protects the wood... binding is a thing with a purpose.. its like a cop wearing a bullet proof vest, you dont paint a different color outline on the cop with no vest and call it a natural bullet proof vest.. it dont do anything...

[@BradAngove]

So in your mind binding is a guitar bumper? Haha ok that’s new to me. There are a lot of different bindings, all for aesthetics as far as I’m concerned. With that said, I don’t play my guitar at dinner, so maybe I’m just not used to having to worry about tables.

[@chriss2452]

No masking. Spraying into open cavities. Spraypainting the back of the neck? Dude, this is amateur work. It's painful to watch really. But hey, to each his own I guess.

[@seansilverton4178]

Real men use pumice not epoxy ;)

[@BradAngove]

Do real men paint musical instruments, or do metal work on muscle cars?

[@seansilverton4178]

@@BradAngove No doubt. I have enjoyed your work, and always look forward to following your builds.

[@BradAngove]

Cheers Sean