The REAL Plus/4 Mini Extremefurb! - Commodore 116

[@RetroRecipes]

First!

[@itsjasoninnit]

I'm very first

[@thecaptain2281]

That cheating that is! It's your channel, you can't be first! lol!

[@pdsnpsnldlqnop3330]

Can we have an episode on the Astec modulator? It was in everything but not sure why. Did they have a key patent that made it impossible for others to compete in that market? Without the Astec modulator there would have been no home computing revolution as people only had one TV in the house back then. Only schools could afford proper monitors. What happened to Astec electronics? Were they even called that and were they bought out? I think that there is a making of a great program there, on a lesser known supplier that enabled so much to happen.

[@RetroRecipes]

I'll be honest I probably won't do an ep on modulators. It's not a subject that excites me as much as the other things on the very long list 😉🕹️

[@LivingInAVan]

Muhhahaha!

[@00Skyfox]

I can't remember if I've said before, it's very impressive how thorough you are with these restorations, as well as the very descriptive videos detailing the work, and how much knowledge you have for fabricating repairs and replacement parts. Very well done!

[@RetroRecipes]

Thanks! Full credit to Pete too! 👍🕹️

[@EddiesTech]

At 10:42 I genuinely thought you were going to burn the mixture in the BBQ so it was black!

[@TheMalMeninga]

I was amazed at that key restoration. Great work, chaps!

[@fan1701]

I love seeing these restores. Great work.

[@JanBinnendijk]

I had a C16 back in '85... loved that little machine... By the way... you sound like Bob Ross... :D

[@manicsorceress2181]

In my opinion the C116 was the computer with the best price/performance ratio in Commodore's lineup if you wanted to learn programming. It deserves to be repaired so eloborately. Good work.

[@LuxorVan]

If you have extra white silicone rubber just burn the missing characters deep enough into the keys with a lazer engraver and fill them carefully with the white silicone rubber.

[@jubronaljoan]

White rub on Letraset transfer decal letterrings for the lettering sealed under a matt garnish, err varnish sounds very appetizing for the missing letters

[@doktor6495]

Your extreme refurbishs are really great! I love it! Greetings, your Doktor64!

[@michaelmyers4837]

Great episode, as always. This also just reminded me of the most beautiful machine that Commodore ever designed: the 364. I've always wanted one of those massive and beautifully moulded machines. So sad that they never made it out to the public.

[@RetroRecipes]

Thanks! In my Plus 4 episode I discuss the attempts by someone to recreate its case. 👍🕹️

[@michaelmyers4837]

Thanks for the heads up. I'm heading there now!

[@Sharklops]

Get the small adhesive vinyl letters and peel the ones you need off the sheet. Then just throw those away and use the holes where they were on the sheet as stencils to dye/paint the letter labels. If you still have some of the keys you cast, you can use them for testing to see how well various marking methods work on the silicone.

[@nardjanssens6049]

Your repair skills are impressive!

[@Lilithe]

Seeing you put such care into an abused machine is pleasing.

[@Colin_Ames]

I really like these restoration videos. Great work.

[@KarriKoivusalo]

I vote for Silkscreen printing for the missing keyboard legends! And I mean lettering, not Jan Hammer.

[@holgerstallbaum1866]

I just repaired my first computer my Plus/4 from 1985 and a c16 which i recently bought on EBay. I am looking for a c116 here in Germany. But they are so rare and expensive (300,-€). A few years ago, i saved a working VC20 (german for VIC20) from a recycling yard in my neighborhood.

[@RetroRecipes]

Nice work!

[@saracade69]

What you do is so beautiful to me. Thank you for saving and restoring history.

[@RetroRecipes]

Full credit to Pete too for his hard work! #teamwork

[@AugurIliKur]

I would 3D print molds for the letters and cast them in white silicone then place them into the button mold and cast the black around them. This is how Western Electric made telephone dials for rotary phones though they used bakelite, etc. The lettering has a hidden root structure that align it into the dial mold. I've had no problem casting silicone in PLA at those dimensions.

[@j-man6001]

ABSOLUTELY AMAZING JOB! As for the Characters on the keys, I wonder if you could find decals similar to those on model cars, that use a solvent based setting solution? I dont know if painting them would hold up to everyday use?

[@stephenbruce8320]

Nice Job! I always liked the look of the TED line and honestly I would not mind having a C116 not so much to use but for my collection.

[@MarkTheMorose]

I'd never realised the C116 was in a mini-Plus/4 case, I thought it was the same size just with a rubber keyboard. I used to dismiss the 'failed' 264 line, but a few years ago I began to warm to it after seeing the number of modern ports and original games being developed, and what they were getting out of the humble hardware.

[@ArneSchmitz]

Wow. The previous owner sure did some unusual ... 'repairs'. Good that you undid those.

[@patjackmanesq]

I've never been a fan of early synthy chip music, but I've grown to love the music on your channel. I may be tempted to drag out my DAW and have a go! 😊 Great video!

[@RetroRecipes]

Thank you for your kind words. Means a lot. 👍🕹 Feel free to stream free perifractic.com/music 😉

[@jamesdecross1035]

My first computer was a plus/4. Such a pity the 264-series never took-off. They are lovely machines.

[@imqqmi]

Glad to see Ashley again even if it's reused footage. Great restoration job!

[@RetroRecipes]

Well everything here is old 😉🕹️

[@sideburn]

Even the music! 😉

[@uni-byte]

As for the letters on the keys - you could print them with a 3-D printer, put them in the mold and recast the keys with the plastic letters embedded in them. That would make them permanent like double-shot keys.

[@RetroRecipes]

Nice idea! 🤔

[@ArcadeFan77]

It's amazing how someone destroyed the contacts and rubbers in the C116 keyboard. Great that you managed to fix it.

[@bredmond812]

It's kinda past my bedtime, and i was debating whether to stay up late and watch another retro recipes, or to get my beauty sleep. Here I am. I hope my stomach can digest while i sleep.

[@TheEPROM9]

Tip-X with nail varnish as a lacker. You could use a stencial or very steady hand.

[@missionpassed4584]

paint the keys the right colour with a suitable paint then use letter number transfers then clear coat it?

[@rdoetjes]

Silicone doesn’t stick to anything but silicone. So the only way to paint silicone is with silicone, that has pigment added to it. The best approach for an even colour is to do it during the mixing stage. And this stage it would be probably impossible to match the colour and keep the texture and shape. You can airbrush pigments when you mix them in silicone and thin with naphtha (I believe you call it in the US, basically lighter fluid). But I think you’d need a lot of passes to match it.

[@AllonKirtchik]

Now, if there’s a way to silkscreen the letters on the keys, I think you could dip the entire keyboard rubber in the silicone-rubber mixture in a mold and make the keys all uniform before applying the letters. But that’s a ton of work and what do I know anyway.

[@Slider2732]

Whichever lettering method you choose could also bring the correct colour to the key tops. I say water slide decals, with a clearcoat to protect from wear, time, manic people wielding sandpaper.

[@RetroRecipes]

Great idea!

[@FernandoelChachi]

Wonderful video, but I still don't know who makes these so great restorings. Thanks for the photos and the video explaining it.

[@BlUsKrEEm]

The C16 is my favorite computer of all time. A mini C16 sounds amazing

[@scottbreon9448]

I prefer the Plus4 since the C16 never had a user port

[@Ikrananka]

To colour the new keys could you have mixed in some acrylic (artist) paints to get a better colour match?

[@mistermatix8241]

I'd have said that, burnt sienna or raw umber would work.

[@boulderdashc6425]

Interesting video great work on the fix

[@Lucasrainford]

That was a stirling job sir! your restoration vids are great viewing :)

[@pvc988]

BTW. You can buy gold electroplating solution for repairing electric contacts. Also, electroless tin plating soulution could save that exposed copper from corrosion.

[@dammitspawk]

I have to say, every time I hear your theme music it makes me so happy! This little guy is so cute! For the numbers/letters you might try a paint marker? I know the uni posca pens come in a decently thin tip and it might stick better than ink. I gotta say though I missed the ASMR spa in this video. By the way have you ever heard of/played the game Life of Pixel? It's a game where the levels evolve based on the timeline and machines that video games began on! It's actually where I first learned of any retro computers. Awesome video ❤️

[@RetroRecipes]

Thank you for your kind words. Means a lot. 👍🕹 I haven't heard of that. I'll check it out!

[@MegaManNeo]

Ahh~ I remember the Plus4. Barely, it used to be my first computer at the age of three but I used to play Snoopy on it, very nice. Also am I the only person who would love to see the 64 in the 16's black casing?

[@RetroRecipes]

Check out my music maker playlist for just that!

[@palemacaroon4836]

Use a stencil and paint to add the letters

[@strunapl6103]

I have it in '86. From Germany to Poland. ;-)

[@tombarber8929]

I wonder if you could paint the replacement keys white, then make a stencil of some sort to cover the area that the lettering would be, then paint it a color thats close to the original cover, remove the stencil, and which will leave the white lettering behind?

[@RetroRecipes]

Nice idea! 🤔

[@freddychampagne4467]

Big thumbs up. You really did it. Btw.: I have still a full functional C116 complete with original Box. I have to admit that it was not my first computer. My one and only first computer was the breadbin C16. I bought my C116 many many years later on eBay to complete my 8-bit Commodore homecomputer collection ;-) Additional thumbs up for repairing this nice machine. Btw.: It was not intendet to compete the Sinclair ZX Spectrum. It was meant to compete (alas much too late) the Sinclair ZX81 (aka Timex Sinclair 1000 in the US).

[@freddychampagne4467]

Add. I took an Abo ;-) Oh additional Info about C116/ZX81. Jack Tramiel wanted to compete with Clives well selling ZX81, so his order was to make a good computer for less than 100,-$. As we all know Jack always wanted "Power without the price". And here he did it. A computer much more powerfull than it's direct competitor. Keep up the good work. Greets from Germany.

[@CommodoreComputerMuseum]

Nice restore job as usual!

[@Foxcb27]

I love your dogs. They are so cute! Thank you for this incredible video. Im enjoy it so much.

[@RetroRecipes]

Thank you for your kind words. Means a lot. 👍🕹 The dogs say the same!

[@hblaub]

Very well done! Nearly everything was missing or broken!

[@MMSZoli]

A really nice episode! I appreciate the efforts to revive this small machine ("It's alive!" :-) ) Could be interesting to see it next to a real ZX Spectrum. I always thought, that if C= would make these rubber buttons a little harder, it could be even useable at a certain level. BTW the TED series was NOT really slower than the ZX Spectrum. It is true, that despite higher clock speed, at certain applications Plus/4 (due to continuous ROM/RAM switching) could be slower, than a C64. Eg. in BASIC. It is valid for C128 too. (I am not confident about the C16 and C116, as they do not require this bank switching during prg running). In the TED series the CPU continuously changes it's frequency, even up to 1.7MHz on the border, gets the clock from the TEC chip. At full machine code (without ROM) it could reach ~20-30% faster code than C64. As an evidence, worth to check Castle Master, Driller, run the same speed as C64, despite have to realise a software sprite too. Or check out some converted C64 games made with software sprite, like Head Over Heels. If you switch off the TED, and use only the CPU's power (same as the FAST 2MHz mode on C128), you can screw the TED series up to ~2.2MHz. With this, 8501 CPU becomes one of the fastest classic 8bit CPUs. (certainly not in the range of 6502 3MHz or SAM Coupe 6MHz Z80) As the MOS microcode is faster/more efficient than the Z80 one, in this mode can reach 10-20% higher calculation score than a 3.5MHz ZX Spectrum. A really good benchmark on PI calculation/speed of different CPUs: litwr2.atspace.eu/pi/pi-spigot-benchmark.html Some ppl may say, that it does not show the platform's real speed, just a very special, not realistic environment (on the other hand it really shows JUST the CPUs' speed, and at a certain level, the speed of memory). The other evidence, that the TED serie is at least not slower in real life (than the 3.5MHz ZX Spectrum), that those games directly converted from ZXSpectrum, run at least the same speed (or faster). St.Helmet Zero, Pentagram, Knight Lore, unfortunately they all require 64K RAM, so canbnot be proved on a real C116 without RAM upgrade... (a little similar topic: when the AMD Athlon 64 at 1800MHz rated to be the same speed as the Pentium IV 3000Mhz, they were rightfully called Athlon 64 3000+. So I may call this little beast C116 4MHz+ :-) )

[@AccountWasHacked]

How about use MS Paint (or some program), create a stencil to print out and use it to color the number/letters/C= on the keys? Edit: Awesome video btw.

[@RetroRecollections]

Nice to see another unit in the 264 series brought back to life :)

[@azyfloof]

I wonder if vinyl cutting would yield details fine enough for those letters?

[@sa3270]

Why do the traces on the keyboard PCB have those intricate interlocking patterns where the keys make contact, is it to maximize the chance the key closes the circuit when you push it down? Or does it have a capacitive property? I notice they didn't do the same thing on the cursor keys.

[@8_Bit]

4:43 You can't just compare the clock speeds of very different CPUs like the 8510 (which is a 6502 variant) and a Z80 to decide which computer is faster. A 6502 is much more efficient with each clock cycle, and actual throughput on the C116 will be very similar to the Spectrum.

[@RetroRecipes]

Now I want to run a benchmark on both! If only I had a Spectrum... I do think the C116 would be slower. Note the Z80A has a 3x faster speed, but I mentioned it's only twice as fast. That's my rudimentary factoring in the 8510's efficiency. It would be a fun test.

[@8_Bit]

@@RetroRecipes There was recently an excellent port of the Speccy classic Knight Lore to the Plus/4. It won't run on the C116 for lack of RAM, but it would be a fun (if not entirely scientific) way of comparing performance between the 264 series and the Spectrum.

[@RetroRecipes]

Go for it! 😉😉

[@freddychampagne4467]

@@RetroRecipes Remember: the 7501 (8501 in later models) ran @ 1.78MhZ which is like twice the speed of C64's 6510.

[@57thStIncident]

Furthermore (not sure about the ZX spectrum specifically) but some machines rely on the CPU to perform tasks (like video, audio, or working with peripherals) for which others have dedicated chips. I seem to remember that ZX80/81 rely on the CPU to generate the video signal. In other cases various component requirements require wait states etc that sap the CPU’s full potential. WRT a Z80-equipped spectrum it’s possible some raw computations might be faster but the overall real-world package would be competitive but not markedly superior.

[@jparky1972]

Great work on tve keyboard rework. I suppose the way to have done a better colour match that would have been to mix up a load of small test keys with different amounts of dye in them and see which was the closest match. Then make your final batch with that ratio. But yeah! Otherwise. Very well done.

[@alicewyan]

Screen printing the missing letters would work, but sounds like too much work :p I'd probably just write them by hand with a white posca marker and then use a lighter to gently bake the ink in place. You have spare keys to practice on!

[@Markchill2]

R.I.P Jack Tramiel

[@MxPikachuTheSillyGal]

Markchill2 he was a good man... until he cheated on commodore by leaving to go work for Atari

[@Markchill2]

@@MxPikachuTheSillyGal but he is sill the founder and with out him we would have not got the vic20 wich lead to the c64

[@xXTheoLinuxXx]

@@MxPikachuTheSillyGal he didn't leave Commodore to go work for Atari. You have to give the credits to Irving Gould. There was a different point of view, Gould was all about the money and wasn't too keen to invest in projects that costs a lot. The easy way to make a lot of money in a short period. The downside is that you don't have a proper product for the future. And Tramiel wanted to invest in projects that were for the future. So it was unworkable for Tramiel and he resigned. After a few months of boring, there was a chance to sign by Atari and the rest is history.

[@scottbreon9448]

Mr.Pikachu the Sayori fan At least it was Atari and not Microsoft. LMAO

[@loganjorgensen]

It's very cute, looks like someone's been eating the Chiclet keys and various other parts from it. :P Good job alchemist. ;)

[@MartinFarrell1972]

The whole 264 series gets some stick. While it had limitations (sprites and sound) it had a better version of Basic than the rest. Some of the commands appeared in C128 basic. I have a C16 but have a problem with a loose wire in the power supply. 6 months ago I had bought a ram upgrade to make it 64K like the plus 4 but can't do anything until I sort out the power supply

[@jimmoores7883]

Rather late to the party, but for the keycaps, have you thought about going old-school with some Letraset? I checked, and they do have white versions. You'd probably need to mask/spray some sealant on top (similar to that transparent layer you see on cheaper keyboards), but it should give you some nice crisp letters. Don't know if you can find the right font/size though.

[@RetroRecipes]

Nice idea

[@rdoetjes]

The letters on the keys can be done by making a vinyl negative mask and use white silicone airbrush. Just get a cheap air brush. Mix up your silicone (can be clear and add pigment or use white - be sure it’s the same type of silicon). Dissolve it within naphtha so that it goes through an air brush, and spray several thin passes let the naphtha flash of and a few more iterations and voila. For a horror flick I created 100 leeches from silicone and several hands, eyelids and finger and I used a similar method to add colour difference. BE sure to wear a respirator!!!

[@davidbanner9001]

Recently found your YouPoo channel and I have to say it's RetroTastic!!!

[@RetroComputingwithMike]

What if you create a new mold with a 3D printer, where you create the lettering as a small indent in the rubber, let it harden, and then apply another color of rubber on top of the button, and scrape it off, so the only the rubber in the indent will be left.

[@74erPinguin]

For a small girl like Ashley this is the perfectl small machine. Especially the tiny rubber keys can be perfectly operated with her tiny fingers.

[@RetroRecipes]

Haha how thoughtful of you!

[@herbiehusker1889]

Why would you remove the RF modulator without replacing it? Was this a parts machine?

[@RetroRecipes]

We think so yes. And as the old saying goes, "one person's parts machine is another person's extremefurb". Right?

[@herbiehusker1889]

@@RetroRecipes you've tackled worse. I'd just use a stencil and some spray paint to put the letters on there.

[@marfed8121]

You made a great worg. Great video. greetings from Argentina!!!!!!

[@santi308]

De donde sos?

[@herbiehusker1889]

Worg?

[@marfed8121]

@@santi308 San Bernardo del Tuyu. Saludos.

[@santi308]

@@marfed8121 greetins from Paraná

[@Skaera75b]

I love this channel. Thanks for the video dude, my cat also approves!

[@RetroRecipes]

Meowelcome!

[@Skaera75b]

Also- stencil and spraypaint, maybe?

[@KieronWray]

What was the outcome of this one? Did you put lettering on and what technique did you settle on?

[@RetroRecipes]

Actually it was sold and we're not sure what the new owner did ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

[@Nibb31]

I would use Letraset transfers for the keyboard.

[@74bobby]

Great Job

[@MaxQ10001]

The 1 MHz 6502 performs around the same as a 4 MHz Z80 on most stuff (due to the ways the CPUs are designed) . So i would guess that the 1.7 MHz C116 is faster than the Spectrum. Maybe a benchmark episode with different 8-bit machines could be a fun episode? Find out which CPU is fastest on different kind of processing and calculations. Also an episode idea: teach us how you get the incredibly good sound quality on your videos. If others can learn, KZbin will become a better place :)

[@RetroRecipes]

Haha. Actually there's another thread here about those benchmarks and we think the 116 is just a little slower. As for sound quality, a Blue Yeti mic and a special recipe of Final Cut plugins!

[@SkyCharger001]

stencils should help you with applying the paint/pigment properly on the keys.

[@chrissdavey]

Great work!

[@PaulioBee]

The Commodore 16 was my first computer. Scarcity means that getting one at a suitable price has eluded me. Now I don't want a 16 anymore; I want a 116.

[@jantestowy123]

I think the best way to fix labels would be, again to create negative (by printing on paper/film) then cutting it out with a sharp blade, and then paint over it... This method should produce decent ressault, plus you can test this before painting the refurbished keys...

[@succ519]

To reletter the keys why not cut out the letter on some masking tape and place it on the key then go over it with a white paint marker?

[@danield.7359]

for the letters on the keys you may eventually want to check out fingernail printers on aliexpress...

[@MattMcIrvin]

10:49 Aww... doggie cares.

[@Ichinin]

Got a C116 as well,. have barely touched it. In general there seem to be a need to do some work on the keyboard, but if unopened, you need to crack it open(!) - and then repair the keyboard (!) to put it back into the computer. So i've skipped that. The C116 is one of those MEH computers that make you considering selling it to the next person and let them deal with it.

[@johnps1670]

Don't think you can find a TED chip nowadays.

[@Ichinin]

@@johnps1670 That is why i plastered all IC's with heatsinks since heat appears to be the problem that breaks TED and the CPU. There are some people working on replacement chips, see the Plus/4 group on facebook, they talk about it from time to time.

[@MMSZoli]

@@johnps1670 Sometimes you can find even tested ones. But rather expensive; ~15€...

[@nagygergely2650]

Hi I am from Hungary greetings from here.

[@chicoarraes]

You could laser cut a silkscreen mask and paint the letters

[@RussellRiker]

Hotsnot... gonna have to remember that one.

[@atari2600b]

Dual extruder flexible filament

[@anticat900]

It is your ability to create parts where I would have thought nothing but a replacement would be possible, that separates your repairs above others I've seen. I would think however that creating a custom transfer would be the only option for key tops you require? I did have a 116 myself until recently. Nice little machines, sort of a Atari 600xl but Commodore equivalent, ie compact and do all that is necessary. They are easy to upgrade to 64k too and can then do all a plus 4 can do and with a simpler psu. No user port or built in packages if that is a concern.

[@MMSZoli]

Actually on the TED series nothing really used the User port. OK, maybe the C64 modems may work with some simple terminal program, but AFAIK it also needs a small hack to work. The built-in package was never a real winner, especially if you compared it to Script/Plus (similar to C64 Easyscript), or CALC/Plus, not to mention GEOS.

[@anticat900]

@@MMSZoli liked the all in one nature of the ted. It's a pity however commodore seemed to have to rival tech going on

[@robertjung8929]

desktop vinyl cutter to cut a mask and then spray-paint the letters and remove the mask.

[@azariayehezkel9064]

Great video

LIKE ! Extreme JOB !

[@csbruce]

3:04 If the RF modulator is completely gone, doesn't that present the opportunity to replace it with a Composite or S-Video output? [Oh, it already has a video port.] 4:00 The TED chip has three timers, parallel keyboard I/O, and a little bit of MMU, so it also offset most of both CIAs in the C64. The Plus/4s instead have one simple parallel-port chip in addition to the TED, plus an RS-232 serial chip as a better replacement for the functionality of the User Port. 4:09 The Atari 2600 and 8-bit computers had a 128-color palette long before the Plus/4s came along. 4:45 You can't compare a Z-80 and a 6502-compatible by equating the clock speeds. The Z-80 needs about twice the clock speed to match a 6502, and the Plus/4 line's CPU runs at 1.76 MHz, which makes it about equal in performance to a 3.5-MHz Z-80. The Z-80 takes four clock cycles per bus cycle, and it even has a 4-bit ALU. 5:55 Why is it 12277 bytes free instead of 12287? 12 KiB = 12288 bytes and BASIC reserves the first byte of BASIC memory.

[@RetroRecipes]

If you don't already you should make videos! You make it seem so easy!

[@MarcosCodas]

Puntastic episode!

[@RetroRecipes]

But I was serious!! 🐄🥛

[@SpacePatrollerLaser]

8 Bit Guy would be proud of you From what I understand the Commodore Plus 4 was inferior as a general purpose computer, but it had 4 business programs

[@57thStIncident]

Cl Lyman Not especially *inferior* - better in a number of ways - but market failure. Biggest sins were incompatibility with large C64 software library, and Commodore asked too high a price for what was originally intended as a cost-reduced machine with fewer components. No sprites or SID, but a lot more colors, faster-clocked CPU, and better BASIC, along with a much faster parallel floppy drive. The series was intended more as a VIC-20 replacement, and in that light it looks better. The other issue was the existence of the 16K variants - this prompted software developers to target the lowest common denominator C16 and 116, not taking advantage of the extra RAM on the plus/4. Another nuisance was the switch to mini-DIN connectors for peripherals; there was some compatibility with older Commodore peripherals but adapters were required.

[@MMSZoli]

@@57thStIncident A perfect summary! I wish you could have been told it to the Commodore marketing team. BEFORE! :-)

[@pinfarmer]

Plot out some vinyl as a paint stencil. And get some white plasti dip spray.

[@notmuch_23]

Rub-on transfers for the keys

[@serpent77]

Why not go nuts, and use the "repaired" membrane to build a whole new membrane in a single color, then silkscreen the letters back on, or maybe even vinyl print the letters back on. I'm sure there are some good screenshots that can be used to get any fonts/symbols replicated for a silkscreen or vinyl printer to do it's thing. I've seen Dave over at 8-Bit guy go to similar levels and the end result, while not 100% accurate is good enough for all but people really in the know to realize it's not original. The extra work involved in going this route would be interesting to see, as well as add that extra love to a refurb like this. After seeing you resurrect the machine that was bent, cracked and corroded to no end, this sounds like something you'd be great at taking on!

[@hanakomisa]

Yay, new video!

[@RetroRecipes]

Yay!

[@stevenrais9360]

You need to get yourself a cheap little 3D printer for your repairs. With the availability of many colors you might be able to match things up pretty well

[@RetroRecipes]

True, though the problem here was recreating rubber, which you can't 3D print easily...

[@stevenrais9360]

That's a good point. I've had good luck printing TPUs and TPEs that could work. Lot of flexible filament options. Great videos though, keep them up

[@retrohaxblog]

@@stevenrais9360 I've actually built my first three 3D printers myself and I have a brand new unit ready for printing. However, Ninjaflex or other similar filaments are way too hard compared to original keys. It had to be cast silicone.

[@stevenrais9360]

@@RetroRecipes Hey, I picked up a new resin printer. Now I'm working with a couple chemist friends to develop a rubberized printable resin similar to the feel of the old keys. I'll let you know how it turns out.

[@mtbevins]

Nice job. I love watching you turn trash to treasure on a candidate no one else would bother even trying to fix. Silicone is not an easy medium to print on. I would experiment with some of your extra keys. I would print a correctly sized letter on a laser printer. Use the print as a template to make an outline using painters tape. Apply the painters tape stencil to the key and use Rustolium spray paint. Semi gloss white enamel. 🙄

[@peteregan9750]

for lettering on keys make a stamp a,d 3d print

[@CubicleNate]

I think the whole 264 line was rather intriguing and it could have been a success had they just kept the C64 compatibility in mind. Thinking about it, this could have been an incredible iterative advancement on the C64 line had they kept full compatibility with the VIC-II and the SID chips. Such is life and I guess it didn't matter because Amiga. Which, THAT would have been even better had they given some kind of hardware C64 compatibility to as well but that is a whole other discussion.

[@RetroRecipes]

Yeah definitely a missed opportunity. Funny enough I just took some photographs for Bil Herd's next book about the plus four.

[@peterk1837]

You are some kind of warlock

[@iNVADER84]

I must finish my C64 restore