The Real Reason Levi’s Jackets Have 2 Lines On The Front.

[@TheIronSnail]

hello uTube. how de do? NEW DENIM JACKETS, NEW JEANS, NEW SITE! Sign up for the newsletter at theironsnail.us and you'll be entered to get a free jacket, pair of jeans, or a gift card if you'd rather wait for a Mammoth. Plus I send out emails that I just find enthralling.

[@davefox7516]

I loved you in Malcolm in the Middle

[@EOWILL]

Around when do you do the giveaway?

[@stevenkennell2890]

Great video - What size are you wearing in this out of interest? The fit is perfect

[@abnerkill]

JSHIT IS HYPED FOR THA DROPPP WOOOYEEEE HAAA!!! PROLOGUE DENEIMM 1 BABYYY!!! YA HEARDDD (thats me im him. Im jshit. This guy. me.)

[@davefox7516]

I loved you in Malcolm in the Middle.

[@Cypress_green]

He also kinda looks like Max Verstappen

[@PirateHenry]

@@Cypress_green DU DU DU DUUUU MAX VERSTAPPEN 🇳🇱

[@shanedebarra4986]

😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂

[@OliveHugh2]

Amazing jokes my dudes

[@cookie6443]

​@@Cypress_green I don't think he looks anything like Max

[@TheAdeybob]

Clothes made for workers, that are now usually too expensive for the average worker.

[@DeniseSkidmore]

Except back when these were invented clothing and food was a higher percentage of household spending. It's housing and entertainment that has gone up.

[@wayward-saint]

@@DeniseSkidmore It's relative for sure. Back in the day, the modern good-enough-cheap-tier didn't exist. Good couches, tables, etc., seem really expensive because IKEA managed to make them way cheaper. Good clothing seems really expensive because fast fashion exists. In terms of purchasing power, the good old stuff costs the same as the good stuff now, there just wasn't so much cheap stuff back then.

[@maxvarjagen9810]

@@wayward-saintBrick and mortar store have been scams for at least the last 15 years. Walmart is the only one where the product is worth what the price. If you want anything better, you need to go online, do your own research, find brands that aren’t trying to rip you off, and order directly from the manufacturer. Paying more doesn’t mean anything. I grew up with my mom buying me $100 jeans that weren’t half as good as the $30 Dickies i wear now.

[@NilZed1]

@@wayward-saint. At even more cheap was slightly worn out good stuff. Whether it was discarded by people who could afford to replace it, or because the original owner gained/lost weight, finished growing up or died, clothes were sold on again and again, sonetines cut down into smaller sizes and even down to kids lengths to get rid of the worn edges, and after that the fabric still might be reused somehow, if only as rags. In Britain there was an industry that took really worn out things and boiled and beat the fabric down into fibres again, respun the mix and rewove it to make very cheap fabric used for cheap underclothes, orphanage/jail/work house issued clothing and the larger scraps used/sold as rags. A city like New York or Boston might have had similiar. The used clothing clothing resale systems carried on operating but thrift stores gradually took over that market between the end if WW2 and the 1980s or so and as new clothes became cheaper and cheaper and less reusable in any way.

[@zeroshepard9513]

​@@wayward-saint I recall spending less and getting more. Durability nose dived in the decades Ive been working.

[@grahamfil777]

12:40 is where he explains why

[@gudgengrebe]

Thank god. Thought I’d die of thirst before he got to the point!

[@scottjones7568]

Thank you god

[@Blackadam01]

Thank you.

[@donkahl63]

Thank you!!! That was painful

[@GleeHadWings]

True hero

[@Aardquark777]

12:40 TLDR: For fashion. It's to pay homage to pleats from previous designs, and still imply the V shape. That's it.

[@Triaxx2]

Thank you, this could have been a 5 minute video including ads.

[@epilisium]

​@@Triaxx2 You are so boring

[@Vaquero4382]

OMG, thank you for saving me another 14 minutes of blather and BS.

[@frenzy07_]

I mean he's basically telling a story about history of denim jacket 🤷‍♂️

[@annem7806]

​@@Triaxx2 gift of the Irish is the ability to make a short story long.🍻

[@crywalt]

It's been a long time since I wore a denim jacket but when I did I preferred the Lee because the back panel is wider at the bottom, which is better for painting your favorite heavy metal album cover.

[@michaelshearer3559]

The vintage LEE jacket is the clear winner. I'm surprised more companies don't run with that design inspiration.

[@MrCatcandance]

The Lee storm rider with the tan corduroy collar is such a cool jacket

[@chapiit08]

@@MrCatcandance I lost a nearly new blanket lined one in the Toronto subway in 1991, still cringe when I think about it.

[@steves7896]

That Wrangler with the pleats and rivets running down the front was sure an eyeful!

[@oltedders]

I always bought Wrangler brand denin jackets. I never liked the V shaped front panels.

[@Lucky_Forages_88]

No mention of inside pockets !!!!!!!!!! Best feature of Levi’s jacket periodt.

[@billmiller9448]

The weed pocket! 😊

[@hotjanuary]

OMG. I’m laughing. 😂 All your guesswork and you never reached the obvious. As someone who sews and drafts my own patterns, I can tell you the reason there are two seam lines down the front. Denim used to be thicker than the modern denim fabric we have today (it actually lasted you years as a result). To accommodate that extremely tapered to the waist fashion silhouette, you need waist darts. However, with how thick denim was (and how bulky the seams are), one dart would look too weird because the stiffness would give it more of a cone shape. So, enter TWO darts to make the jacket sit more smoothly on the body. Furthermore, two darts would mean that the panel pieces (before they are attached to the upper yoke) would have a less dramatic angle on the fabric layout. This leads to less fabric wastage since pattern pieces MUST follow fabric grainlines and must be in a certain orientation with respect to the fabric selvage.

[@eonarts]

I grew up in the SF Bay Area, ground zero for Levi’s, which our parents LOVED! I was a fashionista with a thing for London fashion but as a middle class kid I was limited. In 1967, in 7th grade, I got my mom to buy me a pair of Lee jeans. These were BLACK denim with thin medium gray stripes. They also narrowed at the ankle, very London fashion. I still had Levi’s. As a gi my mom wouldn’t spring for jean jackets. In high school everything changed to flares. I got a pair of Lee overalls that were a denim but off white with a blue stripe (very reminiscent of old mattress ticking). They were flares! They were extremely cool. One summer, as usual we got a pair of Levi’s which we all distressed by throwing them in a bleach bath. I was in a hurry so I just put them on the stove with a bit of detergent, dry, unfolded from the store and then remembered the bleach. Yup they got tie dyed! My mom yelled at me and told me I had to wear them. Once dry they were the coolest pair of Levi’s on the planet!! (Second to my navy surplus navy jeans I embroidered realistic snakes from pictures in an encyclopedia). Sadly when I went to college my mom took them all to the goodwill!! I’ve been designing jean jackets for myself lately. I’m on my 3rd mockup for the current one. As a woman I want all the pockets!! Gat video!

[@tastyporkbuns]

This channel has really inspired me to overhaul my wardrobe as of late. Looking forwards to hopefully grabbing a thief's prologue jacket and maybe a pair of chapter 1 jeans as well.

[@VictimofNightCity]

That sounds like a code of some sort

[@warmuptheleftovers]

Idk if anyone mentioned this, but the V shape and cropped jackets was done due to pants being high wasted.

[@_kmCarter]

I love that you talk about fashion while traipsing through the outdoors, literally touching grass.

[@tnan123]

Always love the historical stories. The new items in the Iron Snail clothing collection is really exciting!

When my oldest brother passed away in 2019 his widow showed us two pair of 1950s era Levi 501XX in his closet. Worn very little by appearances she said he kept them for sentimental reasons.

[@gameloozer731]

I figured it was similar to a yoke and made a 3d shape simpler in 2D. It would also allow more panels to be cut from a given amount of denim by having smaller pieces

[@CanadaFree-ce9jn]

I hate the Type III because of those Vs. I love the look of the Type I. I'ved owned Type IIIs in the past but never again. I'm more in a field jacket, chore coat phase now.

[@sthompson12132]

agreed

[@munrocoutu6854]

Eisenhower jackets are nice too, i like a waist length jacket more than the longer ones

[@munrocoutu6854]

Eisenhower jackets are nice too, i like a waist length jacket more than the longer ones

[@sevenstar144]

Same for me. I hate the type 3 and those damn Vs. i wear the Type 2

[@for_nothing_important]

i like the type 2 better because it has symmetrical pockets, not like the type 1

[@zipherdias420]

Any day where you can chill with your favorite animal is a good day.

[@TPD]

I love watching my Rick Ashley lookalike friend educate me on clothing. I absolutely love this channel. Big up TIS

[@abighack6622]

Hey Michael! Really loved the video, especially the part where you crawled out of my phone screen and uploaded the world’s entire knowledge of denim manufacturing into my brain until I overloaded and turned into a puddle of mush. Can’t wait for the next vid!

[@sfeddie1]

About half way trough this video my brain was about to explode and I yelled, “SHUT UP!” This guy never took a breath for the 15 minutes of this video. He talked so fast you couldn’t take in what he was saying. All I wanted to know was why there were two seams on the front of the jacket. It shouldn’t have taken 15 minutes to answer that question. Oh yeah, they had to fit the commercial in the middle.

[@yogibro6442]

More info more better smooth brains beware! Haha, great vid.

[@frenzy07_]

​@@sfeddie1it's his style of videos as of late

[@tdolan500]

0:27 what are those for? Obviously I know, I’m just checking

[@rebeccajordan4491]

The change in the grain of the fabric from the bodice to the yoke is so that the strength of the warp yarn will help the garment resist stress along those lines of movement. Warp is the lengthwise yarn on the loom, it’s heavier and stronger and is under more tension during the weaving process. The weft is the cross-grain yarn. It’s lightweight weight and under less tension. The extra tension on the warp is why garments shrink in length more than width, but it’s also what creates the strength and structure of the garment.

[@reneeelias9514]

Interesting Levi jacket history. I still have my 80’s version with extra wide sleeves that taper to the normal circumference. It’s a beautiful jacket.

[@1st1anarkissed]

I am old. Used to have one of those levis but now my jacket is a wrangler from the early 2000s. It has the seams too. Parallel from the pockets to the waist.

[@yourustyrebel]

I rarely comment but I have to say, not only do you make great videos.. I was recently wondering about the history of the Levi’s jacket types, the thought process behind the designs & why nobody had made a type 4. And then you come along & make a video on the who damn subject! Bravo 👏🏾

[@fivecrosses9040]

I appreciate that you walk through high grass to entertain us. A tick here and there is a small sacrifice.

[@jfu5222]

I have a type III, but I seldom wear it as I try to avoid the Canadian Tuxedo look. Sometimes I'll pair it with brown Carhartts.

[@gringogreen4719]

Blue Jeans were born in downtown Reno, NV. There's actually a plaque there about it. Basically it was when the rivets were added and patented in 1871.

[@marcondespaulo]

The Levi's Commuter Jacket from 2012 is a winner. I love it. Just wish I could by another, maybe two or three.

[@JohnFourtyTwo]

Levi did come out with a roomier jacket in the ‘90s back when the baggy look was at its peak. It looked just like a regular type 3 but was bigger all around including larger arm holes.

[@sethfg]

I had that. Think it’s still in my parents attic. Corduroy collar. Can’t see it ever being back in style. But never say never… oh, it’s stone washed of course. 😂

[@michellebyrom6551]

​@@sethfg90s are being sold as vintage in retro boutiques now. If it has the right silhouette for the pants you're wearing now wear the old jacket and claim it as iconic.

[@kwamintaylor4247]

Did my man just shout out E-49 hyphy. I love this dude

[@joelhollingsworth2374]

The funny thing about that shift to space culture is that Luke's desert outfit includes white Levi's (but after a stitch ripper has taken off all the pockets etc.)

[@Westlake72]

Levis are really doing well at the moment with really nicely designed and mid-priced items.

[@ForOneandAll]

I’m not really interested in fashion personally….however I am very entertained by your writing/videos! (I do love how items will age and wear, it often seems that one can feel the passage of time, in a way) Thank you for sharing what you do.

[@circa54]

Michael always putting out great vids! 👏

[@frankkoolosko4255]

I still have my denim jacket from 1978 before they started making them with four pockets a real denim jacket. It still looks beautiful

[@kevinbarrett9615]

Type lll is the most flattering style, everyone should own one.

[@DawnDavidson]

It is a lovely design. Very elegant and flattering. I can see why it would as so popular. Thanks, YT Algorithm for bringing me this useless factoid! 😂

[@kevinong1735]

2:01 I’ve never seen a denim trucker jacket with a bi-swing back! 😮

[@TheLastMan56]

Me neither! What is that called? I thought it was a “fastback” shoulder. What’s that jacket? Brand and style?

[@thomasp3358]

I am looking forward to you releasing a 100% selvedge hemp denim jeans one day. Seeing how enthusiastic you are about hemp, I suspect it will become a reality in the near future!

[@aa-vk6hd]

I dont think you can use indigo on hemp fibre.

[@mikewinston8709]

I owned a standard Levi’s denim jacket bought in 1969. I was 14. I wonder which mark mine was, I think a three. I also owned a Lee denim jacket in 1970; loved the yellow stitching….black plastic buttons….fabulous quality products…..🇬🇧

[@impendio]

Michael, I don’t trust anyone to tell me about fabrics and fashion other than you, can you make a video about the lululemon abc pants? I want to know whats the deal without anyone trying to shill me…

[@miss-katerees9745]

I just stumbled onto your video and it was so much fun! I loved everything you taught us. And I need to order a pair of your jeans!

[@basedury]

Lee Rider jacket and Wrangler 124MJ absolutely mog the Type 3. I almost exclusively wear my Lee. Wrangler also made a workwear boxy jacket that looked a lot like the Rider, I have an old one that fits perfectly

[@nygrl6102]

I was surprised at how popular Levi's are in Italy! And i like the v. It makes the jacket less boxy and more fitted.

[@andrewschwartz5743]

Very much contemplating having my first denim jacket be from The Iron snail 👀 Love the channel and the content. Originally from NE but moved to Europe and these videos give me both nostalgia and wisom. Much appreciated.

[@rhysrhysrhys]

I've seen that documentary, it presents many valid points.

[@chrismollard5474]

Bro. You're killin it!

[@FullaEels]

i own a type three premium w/sherpa i got for half off, basically new from vinted and ive worn it basically every day since i got it (even in summer), best jacket ive had so far! also yes i wear carhartt carpenter pants to work and they've worn in enough now that they're resembling a pair of black jeans that have started to fade and get character. these will become casual wear for me when they get softer. LOVE the pockets on those

[@kgnkwmr]

Congrats on the Iron Snail denim launch! I've been looking forward to it!

[@_The_Worst_]

Perfect✨️and⌛️timeless...🤘🏼💯✔️

[@TheShannonagains]

Just started back up watching these, really missed watching all of the workwear KZbinrs, glad to be back though!

[@user-mq8od4tj4x]

The only reason it was the most popular jean jacket is because that's the only one they were making...

[@clwest3538]

I enjoyed the heck out of your video - great job! I grew up wearing 501s 70s - 90s ... while I went shooting clays, hunting, targets ... and Levis did the whole "against 2nd A" thing ... totally lost me with that. I'm hard core American first ... have learned to not be a brand slave ..... Last pair of 501s I had, I took the time to remove all 'brand' markers - including pocket stitching and red tab even got razored off .....

[@LaurentiusTriarius]

Jeans jackets are generally uncomfortable and cold but people still want to believe they're comfortable and do the jacket thing.

[@dragonanderson4729]

Ok going to challenge you on that If it's not actually cold 50 or lower it's a great wind breaker. I would wear one during hot days instead of my winter leather. And if you are going to take a small nap near a camp fire it's excellent. It's more comfortable than the track running jacket. Also if you do any shop work with a grinder you'll learn to respect the protection they provide.

[@BingBongFYaLife]

Your watch collection is NUTS

[@mrlolmaster1019]

Levis killed the type II jacket because they wanted to become a fashion brand, BRO the type II is the definition of drip

[@franzb69]

those vintage jackets look great on you btw

[@TinsTins]

You got the pockets right on those jeans Michael. Nice job!

[@John_Stabeezi]

The snail is the turtle of the bug world.

[@michellebyrom6551]

Fascinating video. I checked out your webshop. I've been making a fair amount of my own clothes for half a century now. I'm not easily impressed by what I find in the shops. Most of it is overpriced and of poor quality. Not only are your designs good, classic shapes that sit well on most people. The finish and attention to detail is great. The old original, heavyweight denim really does last unlike modern jeans. I'm aware that ordinary 10oz denim is retailing at £10 to £15 per metre over here in GB. For the extra quality and thus the life expectancy your prices are very good. My favourite item though is the pure wool Mammoth jacket. It looks amazing. It's rare that I'm impressed by commercial, off the peg products. I wish you well.

[@mimip154]

Look at Bolero jackets, Mariachi jackets, and as a horsewomen you can't have extra material catching on saddle gear, like the saddle horn. Blessings

[@antagonizerr]

Jean jackets were iconic when I grew up in the 80's. We called them 'armor'. Then, somewhere in the late 80's-early 90's they went and installed waist pockets on them, totally ruining the lines of the jacket. Sure, they were convenient, but the minute you used them, they would stretch out and bulge so we usually sewed them shut. To this day, I miss my original type 3 jacket. I had some great patches on it and sometimes I wonder if it's sitting in some thrift shop somewhere being gawked at by some hipster talking about how, 'beautifully retro' it is.

[@Cheddar_Curtain]

Easy way to date vintage Levi's jackets is if they have the hand warmer pockets or not. 1984 Olympics in Los Angeles, the USA athletes wore Type III Levi's jackets during the opening ceremony. Those were the FIRST to have hand pockets, and it became a standard feature. So any Type III *without* hand pockets is (probably) pre-1984. Also, the older Levi's jackets were better. Heavier denim. I have a couple from the 80's and you can immediately tell it's a better quality item than the new ones.

[@ashtongundersen7515]

I’ve just been rocking Carhartt detroits and such now. I’m hoping I can lose a little weight so it sits on me a little looser in the hips and oversized on the shoulders and I can wear the higher waisted Levi’s

[@elizabethbailey2762]

Great show!

[@station7thedoor]

See, now, if Lee did it first, then to REALLY solve the mystery, you gotta investigate the origin of the Lee seams.

[@T.hunstiger]

Michael, how come the denim jacket never seems to go down to your waist? The one in the video, when you’re on the log seems to be about three inches or so higher than where your belt is. Why is that? I’ve always wondered why. I figure you know the answer. Thanks for the entertaining, insightful and always educational content. Take care.

[@steves7896]

I've often wondered the same thing. Maybe for sitting in the saddle? (So your not sitting on the bottom hem of the coat?) Men's pants in the 1940's and on back had waistlines that rode real high by today's standards (as opposed to riding on the hips), maybe that played a role in it? The high bottom hem is a feeling that took me some getting used to. True Eisenhower jackets from WWII also had that high-riding bottom hem.

[@teresaoconnell4790]

I listened at a lower speed. It was a good presentation.

[@BbB-rh6sj]

That type 2 looks insane on you bro...buy it

[@heidij7374]

This was fascinating! Thank you

[@johnnavarrete1249]

Been watching your videos for a while and I am super excited to get the jean pants that drop soon!

[@IgnazKevenaar]

Love your videos and love the new website. Hopefully I'll own one of your pieces one day :)

[@ethan073]

Another great video & good luck with your upcoming release ☺️

[@Carini76]

You need to breathe, bc I'm out of breath just listening and watching you.

[@coopers1716]

I was like "Damn, Jack Lucier looks a lot like Ser Michael Caine!"

[@andersonsluder]

Love the Jeans! Those look soooo good, especially for the cost.

[@AllanTidgwell]

The reason for the particular cut is because the V shape is indicative of a mesomorphic body type, which is considered the most attractive body type. So they promoted clothes that accentuated those features to make the men wearing them more attractive

[@darrenhall7454]

I love this video! I consider myself well and truly educated. 😁👍 Love the Iron Snail denim pieces. I’ll be jumping on those when I can.

[@charlesvickers4804]

Didnt wear levi for a long time. I had only been driving trucks for a couple of years and most truckstops had Levi for sale. I saw one of the displays being disassembled one day and asked the guy about it . He told Levi was having all their products pulled from truckstops because they didnt want to be associated with the image. It was about two decades before i saw Levi products in a truckstop again.

[@JB-1138]

Levi's vs Levi's Signature: I have several Levi's jean jackets and a few of the Levi's Signature jean jackets. I checked the tags and they are were all made in Bangladesh. As far as the jacket construction goes, I would say it's all the same accept that the Levi's Signature jackets don't have the red tab on the front pocket. And the buttons say Levi's Signature rather than Levi Strauss. However, the quality is there.

[@daianspahava8279]

Always love seeing a iron snail video on denim, hope you can tell us more about your denim collection and the fades and the style you’ve been looking at and maybe talk about vans and more Levi’s 501 styles please no one else has the same opinion as yours and I would love to see more of what you like about the 501, 505s and maybe the 551z and the 514 especially since it was worn by Rick grimes and has become his essential pair of jeans

[@07HDFatboy]

Thank you for giving us all of this information

[@PocketUau]

She just came from montana and she keeps talking about cowboys... oh no...

[@memopinzon]

The only design mistake on the Type III is adding two extra inches at the bottom.

[@owenhkeys]

Type 3 Modified! I’ve got an Iron Heart one, a little longer with hand pockets.

[@thepacketnarc7634]

The vertical seams. They’re just for looks; they taper the cut to pay homage to the old jackets with the pleats. You’re welcome . @12:45

[@Rowebot15]

Funny thing, Luke wore LEVI's

[@bizzaroclothing]

Indigo was first used 6,000 years ago in Peru and other Mesoamerican cultures. It's misleading to say that indigo was first used 6,000 years ago and then cut to a denim maker in Japan. Japan started dying with indigo 1,400 years ago. Also denim is only from France in name. The textile producers in Nimes made their 1/3 twills out of silk and wool for the upper class, not the working class. They started weave 1/3 twill because they were trying to textiles from Italy. "De Nimes" means from Nimes, and when British textile merchants were selling low-cost cotton textiles to the U.S., they called the 1/3 cotton fabric "denim" as a marketing tool. Britain had been weaving twill textiles since the Bronze Age, and the twill weave pattern originated in central Asia. In the 1800s, when the U.S. textile industry started making 3/1 cotton twills, we began to see denim as we know it today. Denim was born and perfected in the U.S. It's on trend to say denim is from France and Jeans are from Italy. But neither of those things is accurate, and yah gotta give credit where credit is due. As we know them today, Denim and Jeans are American folk art.

[@TheIronSnail]

I think you'd find "The Master of Blue Jeans" paintings really fascinating -- it shows denim as we know it today (dyed blue, white weft, etc.) was worn as early as the 1600s in Italy. The US really ramped up 3/1 cotton twill production but certainly didn't invent it and 3/1 /heavy-weight twills were also used far earlier but exploded in popularity during the US Industrial Revolution. I think basing these points on a specific twill weave and weight makes it hard to agree. If someone made a 9oz indigo dyed twill fabric in a 2/1 and someone else made a 12oz indigo dyed twill in a 3/1 after them I still think it'd be fair to say the 9oz denim was first and recognizable as denim. Improving on it is great though. I also wouldn't say it's on trend to say denim is from France, considering that's why we call it denim. The same goes for why we call jeans jeans. What we now associate "denim jeans" with are, of course, legendary Americana, but we didn't just whip them up out of nothing. America made denim jeans what they are today, and it's legendary. I'm clearly obsessive about it, but it'd be silly to only give one country the credit, even if there is no denying who made it iconic. Also, I hope people saw the Japanese denim dyeing as a fun visual and not an accurate representation of the first time denim was ever dyed 6,000 years ago. I imagine they didn't have the same fluorescent lighting.

[@ggad1899]

​@@TheIronSnail Have you started weaving yet? And spinning? Because if you haven't, I'm really surprised, given the specificity you expostulate, both here and in the video. Also - mwahaha - have you researched one of the oldest types of weaving there is, which IMO links everything on the spinning, macrame, net making, lace making (but not exactly embroideries) side of things, with the weaving side? Please look up SPRANG. It's also how I viscerally understood Z-spin vs s-spin - which opened up a world of understanding *why* the spin direction of your fibers/yarn/threads/cordage (including ropes on out) is such a big deal. And why yarn made for knitting - most of it - gets regularly messed up when you're crocheting: it's the wrong spin direction. Really enjoyed the video - keep on with your rapid fire, ADHD nerd outs! Here's to fiber arts - they made computer tech possible! 😉

[@davidbizzaro8713]

​@TheIronSnail, I hear all of that. Since my comment, I've done A LOT of research. Denim has a complicated history. Modern denim has its innovation and creation based in the U.S. To your point about the painting, this further proves that denim isn't from France, except in name. And Italy didn't start making indigo-dyed cotton pants until after conquering the Inca. The Inca were the first to weave domesticated cotton and die with indigo. The name denim was used for marketing purposes in Britain and the British colonies. Nîmes and other weaving towns called a twill weave serge. The U.S. didn't call the twill cotton fabric Denim until after the revolution. Before that, it was the same fabric, and they called it a tweel or twill. After and during the revolution, they wanted to separate themselves from the British Empire as much as possible. Thus, they changed the weave pattern name from tweel to denim and Genoa Fustian. The weight of the cotton yarn (specifically the twist and size), the way it's dyed, and the weave are the DNA of what makes denim. I know this because I hand-weave denim. I must get specific types of yarn to weave traditional denim spun by U.S.-based yarn spinners. I also hand-dyed the indigo yarns, which requires a particular process created by my ancestors and further improved by Cone Denim. I don't mean to be mean or say that you don't know what you are talking about. I love your videos! The fashion industry has pushed the history that is easy to find and sounds sexy. Denim is from Nîmes, France. But it's not from there and was not perfected there. It has a global history and was made into the modern denim we love today right here in the U.S., and we should own that. Own the beauty and the horrors in the history of a textile that many U.S. people had a hand in creating, which is now a global phenomenon.

[@davidbizzaro8713]

​@TheIronSnail oh! A couple more bit. 3/1, 2/1, 2/2, and broken twills were being woven by the Vikings and Inca before Italy and France. And the weave pattern doesn't determine the textile weight. Yarn weight, EPI, and PPI determine the weight. 😁 A 9oz can be a 3/1 or 2/1. As well as a 13oz. I sir, have obsessed into the papers on the history of denim, the books written by weavers and textile manufactures in the 1700s and 1800s, and have gone as far to learn how to hand weave denim, pattern my garments, and construct them. I am beyond the deep end.❤

[@davidbizzaro8713]

​​​@@TheIronSnailand another one more! I know why the pleats are there. Pleats like these were made on garments, like the OG denim blouse, aka the trucker jacket, to allow for better midsection movement. It was designed for folks swinging axes or working the fields. Lots of midsection twisting in those movements. They were stitched down in those three places so the pleats could allow movement but not fully open and because you can't press them down like you would on a lighter shirting fabric. This is seen in pants, dresses, and other garments. The pleats on the denim jacket are known as knife pleats, or tuxedo pleats. If you look at tailoring manuals from the same time period you'll find explanations and diagrams as well as how to do it yourself. The pleats went away with the trucker jacket because they were no longer needed or in fashion. Truckers and bikers don't twist, they sit. They sit very still. So, the pleats went away and the darts were added. You can see these darts in blazers if you look close enough. The difference is the trucker jacket pleat goes all the up the garment. This was more of a design choice than a functional one. The way the pockets are placed mirrors blazer construction as well. 🌈the more you know⭐ ❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤

[@boriscat1999]

I had a trucker jacket from the mid 1990's, I believe it was stone wash, but I wore it so much that it got a lot lighter over the years. I wonder what I did with it, I bet my Mom probably donated it to charity. Too bad, it was a little big on me back then and it might have still fit (certainly two military surplus jackets from then still fit me). For the most part I always like the look of the LEE "rider" jacket better. But there was a certain popularity with wearing Levi's in the 80's and 90's that was difficult to escape. Levi certainly had their marketing to young men really nailed back then.

[@glenesis]

Amazing documentary, thank you! You only missed one important development - At some point the copper buttons on the Type 3 changed to some lightweight crappy aluminum buttons, snd the quality of all Levi denim went to hell - it tears like paper now. Have a great dag, and good luck with your clothing line!

[@reijei4070]

I was wondering about this yesterday when looking at denim jackets

[@gingebrien2408]

Loved the review.

[@jesseseiko]

As a michigander, i’m so excited to start wearing my unnecessary amount of vintage denim jackets 🤓 happy fall everyone

[@tinnagigja3723]

There's an Icelandic company called 66 Degrees North that started out making waterproof clothes for sailors, farmers and such, but have moved in a more fashiony direction lately, selling $1500 jackets to loaded but poorly-prepared tourists. They still make the classic workwear, and the prices on those are still eminently reasonable, but you won't find it in the online store. You have to look for a PDF that's buried in there somewhere, but you can get a full-body snowsuit that'll keep you warm and dry in any weather for under $300. I just hope they don't abandon their raison d'etre in pursuit of shivering tourists.

[@jterranova]

What a brilliant hyper video!!!

[@paulbelcher7059]

what about when levis put pockets in their jacket

[@myragroenewegen5426]

As someone who, long ago, abandoned denim for softer fabric remakes of army jackets, this sheds light on some things. What strikes me is that what they're doing creating a triangular torso with a structured fabric here reminds me afar bit of line you see in corsetry. Remembering that corsets camebefore bras for everyone, I wonder if, in corsets, this is a "work wear" feature or a fashion feature. Anyway it amuses me to realize that tough-guy jackets get the same body-shaping and tapering as ultra-feminine Victorian cone corsets. To me, these jackets look great, but it's uncomfortable to have such a naturally course, heavy fabric close against the skin. Denim was never really made for this kind of fashion fit, explaining why fashion brands have made it less denim-like and eventually even created mock-denim fabrics for things like yoga jeans, skinny jeans and jeggings.

[@cornvlad8580]

can you put a size chart on your clothing?

[@Ladiesman-iy5fv]

All the jackets fit you amazing, wish to see how the prologue v2 shrink

[@peterkovic2241]

Chapter 1 jeans look FIRE

[@stefalexander2913]

E40 hyphy shout just sold you some jeans in the Yay