The Rise and Rise of Casablanca

Casablanca is one of the hottest mens brands at the moment championing a new old money aesthetic with their Morroccan-French inspiration coming from the heritage of the heavily respected Charaf Tajer who had an enormous CV of brands from Off-White, Le Pompon, Supreme and Pigalle. Tajer clearly began Casablanca with his long practice at fashion retailing, including a blend of hype and decent enough quality to entice customers to come and then keep them returning year on year for the new prints and styles. Plus, after this AW24 collection was such a hit with influencers and critics alike, it really seems as if the only way is up for the brand
Beauty Channel: / @underskinyt
Patreon: patreon.com/understitch

[@BraveNewWear]

I appreciate how you outline the difference between the value brought by the literal clothes in the first collection and the "storytelling", "hype" or whatever you want to call it. I think sometimes in fashion we like to believe that the products stand-alone but I've always thought the story is often the reason we care about a brand or not.

[@jamjama9365]

100%

[@understitchYT]

For a brand this young its absolutely paramount to their verifiability. We want staples to hold onto, we as consumers want to know what world we are buying into. Its a bit like a founder origin story thats common in toys or cosmetics, but for fashion. Also I love your videos too 🥰

[@jimmyryder8850]

I don't care about a story. I just buy what I like

[@karlgustav4079]

Really good work you would deserve being way more popular

[@understitchYT]

Thank you 🥰

[@slatestravels]

I love Casablanca thank you for this Video!

[@understitchYT]

Thank you 🥰

[@markjohnson2257]

Thanks for the deep dive into this brand. I didn't really know the history. When it first came on the scene, l thought it looked like old Versace. It is really not my esthetic but it clearly has an audience. Good for them.

[@understitchYT]

I think thats a good way to put it, its quite like a more masculine Versace

[@31minz]

seriously obsessed with your channel and i loved this video so much! i’m curious if you would be interested in making a video about the rise of bottega veneta?

[@understitchYT]

I really want to make a video about bottega so so much, I’m glad you like the channel 🥰

[@AbandonedRaven]

I don’t know if there’s a lot of history, but have you ever considered doing a video on Enfants Riches Déprimés? I feel like if I was to make my own brand it would be exactly that. Great video and information as always!

[@understitchYT]

It has a longer history than Casablanca I think so let me look into it 🥰

[@ShotsMerkzAll]

@@understitchYTI too would enjoy a video on Enfants Riches Deprimes.

[@OrchidsAndSevers]

Another lovely video Understitch! I first heard of Casablance in the BoF podcast where he talks about his show at his mum’s house, thank you for sharing another well informed video

[@understitchYT]

That interview was amazing, wasn’t it?

[@Squishmitten5]

I kinda freaked when this came on! I love your stuff! I binge it a bit 😂😂😂 you have a voice that makes my brain work 🤭🤭🤭

[@understitchYT]

Im so glad to find intellectuals like you 🥰

[@mrotaveria]

Great, one of my favorite brands reviewed by one of my favorite channels.

[@understitchYT]

🙌🙌🙌

[@aaronjanlistanco]

newly a fan of Charaf Tajer's CASABLANCA since I saw the SS 2024 collection in the Casablanca's YT channel runway show.. that was good.. I wish I could buy some CASABLANCA items.. Another great analysis video.. 👏🏼👏🏼 Charaf Tajer one of the modern fashion designers I look for.. from designs, aesthetics story of the collection that resembles the life, attitude, charisma & personalities of the designers

[@understitchYT]

Glad you liked it. I actually found one of their jumpers from AW20 in a consignment store recently and though it was obviously well worn, there was no pilling whatsoever. The print was a touch plastic-y but not really in a negative way because it fed the print design so well. So I think the quality is as good as they say if it manages to hold up that well

[@aaronjanlistanco]

@@understitchYT wow.. how I wish get those Casablanca items in my hands and wear them.. jealous so much .

[@maria_rubio88]

I didn't know this brand and I loved it. Thank you for your video❤

[@understitchYT]

Im so happy to introduce it

[@blackathena1565]

This was great to hear more about Casablanca! I heard about them with the Bulgari and NB collaborations. I slightly disagree about the Mexico show - i saw the inspi in the shirt embroidery and long skirts but haven't seen the whole show and feels very different the brand core. I very much need to look at the SS24 show asap!

[@understitchYT]

I actually enjoyed it as a show actually, it just didn't line up with the description so I thought there was a disconnect, but as a show it was good

[@SvDu-bb7rh]

A brand with really strong identity. I have their shirts and even subscribed to their newsletter, that’s how much I love their design ))

[@understitchYT]

Im so happy you found a brand that clicks so well for you, loyalty is a powerful thing

[@eleganz]

i was super into casablanca in 2020, glad to see they're getting so much great recognition.

[@understitchYT]

Theyre in a dip at the moment, but Im glad to see theyre sticking with their look, that consistency will serve them so well when the natural interest comes back (which is almost always does)

[@jonathanvitesse9471]

Great video about a great brand, if i had to bet on which new brands will be on avenue Montaigne in 20 years selling billions it would be Casablanca, such a powerful branding and a real breath of fresh air in the fashion world. My only concern is their internal reputation, a lot of people in the industry warned me about their team being really scummy, not paying their workers or models, i remember they had some SA allegations in 2021 too and they AI campaign was likely made from a place of paying the minimum possible for a add; i do hope they will be able to fix this with growth because it’s such a powerful concept that has an infinite potential

[@understitchYT]

I’m glad you enjoyed the video. I personally don’t know if I think it will be around forever, only because it seems very of its time and I don’t necessarily think that Charaf has this one specific vision. I think he is a business person and he has noticed this as a potential growth area, but I don’t think it’s his specific reason for design. Does that make sense? I feel like if he leaves this brand he will go on to have another brand very successfully, whereas some other designers I can only see working on their one brand/aesthetic

[@jonathanvitesse9471]

yeah i agree, it’s a marketing exploration rather than an artistic expression, but i do think a lot of brands like lv hermes or gucci started like this, so i do believe in a long term future, but who knows@@understitchYT

[@The503factory]

Best video yet 😊

[@understitchYT]

Thank you!

[@xinat613]

As a Nigerian. Your mention of the country made me pause and go look up the SS24 collection. I'm no fashion girlie but I got the sense of a sunset in Lagos (former capital of the country) while it was still very much a casablanca design. I'm impressed lol. Can't afford such yet tho 17:25

[@understitchYT]

Oh Im so happy! Ive actually covered one nigerian designer before too, Tokyo James, do you know them?

[@alexlafredo4644]

Been messing with Casablanca since 2022, love the brand!

[@understitchYT]

You have good taste

[@nicmcv6925]

Great video.

[@understitchYT]

Thank you!

[@csalcedo57]

Agree 1000% on his latest show looking American cowboy then Mexico trip.

[@understitchYT]

Theres so many Mexican elements they could have used, it seems odd to me that they would choose the ones that can be confused

[@rhy8336]

I didn’t know Casablanca at all until a few months ago when I was at a department store sent they where the only brand who had bright colored men’s clothing. So of course it caught my eye, it seems like such a rich brand with very good positioning. Right when people are considering more maximalist design and diversity in color and pattern while also riding the old money trend. It seems like they are very ready for the future, maybe a little to ready because that AI campaign still rubs me the wrong way.

[@understitchYT]

Oh really? I quite enjoy the AI campaign, I think it could be a way to lower advertising costs for smaller brands so I was interested in the possibilities. But youre so right its very very eye catching. I still adore the aw20 dalmation prints

[@Ssonyys]

I would love to see a video on Hugo Boss!! They have quite an interesting past🙃 Thanks for the amazing work you do btw❤️❤️

[@understitchYT]

I really want to cover Hugo Boss actually, I know theyre linked to Nazis but Id like more information on it

[@Kinglystateof]

You’re watching Understitch✨

[@understitchYT]

📺

[@Kinglystateof]

@@understitchYT I’m gonna reach out to you very soon, I have a big question ✨

[@understitchYT]

@@Kinglystateof happy to help if I can

[@juziazonk]

I had a possibility to buy multiple shirts from 2nd collection for 250€ each before covid… I postponed it and seller disappeared after covid started 😢

[@understitchYT]

Oh no, that’s such a shame! I was in a store recently and they had one of the dalmatian print knits, but it was just out of my price range for something secondhand

[@AlexaOleksa]

Oh is this a brand that BTS wore at the PTD concert at the last part with those pastel and flower designs? I loved that look on them!

[@understitchYT]

Yes thats it!!

[@sleep4200]

I love your work can you please do one on Thalia Sodi and Catherine zeta jones Casa de zeta jones pretty pretty please 🥺 I love every single video you do . I'm a huge fan of your work .

[@understitchYT]

Catherine zeta jones has a brand??

[@sleep4200]

@@understitchYT yes she called casa de zeta jones

[@LooksByNaheemah]

If you know about the origin of the cowboy and about Mexican heritage, design, styling that collection was very clear. Just because you attribute an appropriation of culture to Hollywood doesn’t make it fact.

[@Booklover78749]

I don’t think she necessarily meant her analysis to be a fact, but rather how she interpreted the collection in comparison to the previous ones. She goes go on to say that she did like that particular collection, but it just seemed a bit off-brand for Casablanca. I really enjoy her business analysis videos as they remind me of conducting a literary analysis. Interpretation/analysis is full of endless possibilities, which is the joy of it. 😊

[@understitchYT]

Youre right, but what I was trying to say was that if it was meant to highlight Mexicana, why choose elements that are so heavily associated with Americana thanks to Hollywood (this section was longer in the og script and cut because I thought it was too long)

[@nairobideservesbetter507]

@@understitchYTit still highlighted “mexicana” very well and accurately what did you want him to do?! put big sombreros and mustaches on the models to make it clear for you?🧍🏽‍♀️

[@crontainer8950]

10000% this was such a WILD take lmfao 😭😭

[@understitchYT]

I think, for me personally, I think there were clearer ways to get across the inspiration. Perhaps flowers, brighter colours, embroidery, a tighter, higher silhouette for men and a slightly baggier fit for women, capes etc. What I'm saying is, if the collection is already based on stereotypes and signifiers, why choose ones that can be attributed to other people? This actually was my favourite collection of Casablanca visually so far as a consumer, but thinking about it critically its unclear in it's inspiration. I'm fortunate to know the history of Mexico, but for those that don't, I think it can come across unintendedly

[@javla2485]

Love Casablanca! thank you !

[@understitchYT]

I enjoy them a lot too, glad you liked the video

[@SeductionByKamal_]

Casablanca got heavily inspired by another Moroccan brand called MEQNES.. similar logo, Moroccan city name...

[@understitchYT]

Tu penses que là? je pense que le deux marques sont différent. Casablanca avait plus de couleur et les éléments de vacances. Et Meqnes es pour la travaille (pardonnez mon français, je m’etude 😅)

[@lucasmoreno5330]

Retailers in London are saying the brand has fallen off at the street wear level.

[@understitchYT]

I believe it, there's not been a lot of buzz since the AI ads. But all brands come in and out of popularity, so I think theyll have a small boost soon

[@EXOL_1485]

Why am I so early

[@understitchYT]

Because you make good life choices

[@thebrothaj]

hmmm… is it really “modern old money”, or is it more “nouveau riche?” mind you, there are elements that i really like(d) (the relaxed fitting , “talented mr. ripley” era in particular), but i too, get more old versace and even some moschino vibes from the brand. 🤷🏾‍♂️

[@understitchYT]

I don’t think you can say it’s nouveau riche, because it’s not loud enough, that’s why I came up with the term modern old money. But I get what you mean, I also think it has a lot to do with old men’s Versace

[@helenahenry4153]

When I think of CASA BLANCA I think Mexico and the south . I do think he swayed to the old money trend because it’s a trend .

[@understitchYT]

I think he knew what was trendy and went for that certainly

[@frutos75]

Totally agree with vogue review, I love the brand but the quality is terrible and I have few items from the collection 22 and 23

[@understitchYT]

Its a bit up and down yeah, I agree, but when they get it right, its really quite good

[@MayorSom]

There's nothing I loathe from tracksuits

[@burgersuperking]

IMO they filled the niche left after Alessandro Michele now

[@understitchYT]

Its bright and colourful, but quite different vibes imo

[@iamsf_]

I think i would like to know your view on Rhode skin by Hailey Bieber. Both the marketing, product and all it includes

[@understitchYT]

I have a whole video on Rhode on underskin, my beauty channel 🤍

[@iamsf_]

@@understitchYT oh okay, going to check it out

[@slatestravels]

Seems like the brand needs to work on their runway shows haha

[@understitchYT]

I think theyre doing pretty good for a new brand, every fashion brand has ups and downs

[@saint9715]

who else is watching at 1.5x speed lmao

[@understitchYT]

Even I do

[@payelpaul5395]

Is this brand very inspired by Alessandro Michelle's Gucci?

[@understitchYT]

I don’t think so they’re quite different aesthetic

[@arelhawkinberry6288]

P r o m o S M

[@GK-up6xz]

the brand genuinely makes me sad...

[@understitchYT]

Can you elaborate?

[@GK-up6xz]

@@understitchYT i see this brand at a select store i visit, the sales assistant always tries to recommend a piece or two, when i look at the clothes i just feel depressed. im sorry thats the best i can do in terms of an explanation. i have a negative emotional connection to these clothes.

[@understitchYT]

Thats okay, it cant be everyone’s taste

[@crontainer8950]

im sorry but the overemphasis on the collection based on mexico being "soo offbranddd" really gives racism vibes

[@understitchYT]

That's fair, I did think that myself, I try to be as self-critical as possible to evolve. But, I do think it was a fair criticism. The collection itself, and several of the others, are influenced strongly by stereotypes and signifiers, so it required looking at it from that perspective. And in my opinion the stereotypes and signifiers they chose to highlight, didn't read as well as they may have hoped

[@milanzejak]

"Touching speech on refugees" on the catwalk of the brand that sells overpriced tracksuits... Interesting. 🤔

[@understitchYT]

I think it’s because he identifies with immigration being that that’s affected his whole family directly