The Ultimate Hotend Upgrade: Discover Creality's PREMIUM All-Metal Hotend 🔥🕷️

[@potterson1710]

Here’s my experience with the spider 3.0. I’m relatively new to 3d printing so I can speak from minimal experience on the whole. Having said that, I’ve learned a great deal about my Ender 3 pro over the course of the past few months. From day one I’ve had issues with bed leveling and adhesion. The only way to get decent adhesion, was to have the nozzle practically touching the bed. Using the paper method, it had to be supper tight, as in not being able to move the paper between the nozzle and the bed. I upgraded and adjusted rollers, tried upgraded springs (including the rubber ones), upgraded bed wheels (complete with locks), added Z axis stepper and lead screw. I Made sure the unit was square. Yes, I calibrated the extruder. The more I tried, the worse it seemed to get. Finally, I started having issues with clogs on top of everything else. I was just about to toss it in the garbage. Being a tinkerer and an “upgrades” kind of guy, I had already purchased the spider v3 and had it in a box saving for when I felt like installing it. As a last ditch effort I went ahead with the upgrade… BOOM! The very next print was TONS better. After toying with the nozzle height a bit, I started getting first layers like I’ve never seen before. Now, using the paper method, I set it so there’s medium to light pressure, but the paper moves freely forward and back. I would say closer to .1mm. Of course you shouldn’t have to replace the hotend right out of the box, but what a relief. Now I can get on with my 3d printing life.

[@willmar2778]

Use it on your Aquilla x2 and make a video, would love to see how it performs. Since am in the market for two new hot ends for my x2 and my Mega S

[@TheFlamingEyeball]

Fedor, do you know if this will fit the Aquila?

[@LogicBob]

it appears that the included thermal grease is not rated for the temps we require for 3d printing. Just a heads-up!

[@pumpc00]

i appreciate your straightforward and unbiased unboxings. you have become my only source for printing. thanks again

[@theglowcloud2215]

Creality: yeah, keep upgrading that Ender 3 **rubs hands**

[@bryanw9425]

Can you change the nozzle without holding the heat block?

[@zk_6312]

Yes, I was noticing that also. Since the heat block is bolted to the upper part you should be able to remove the nozzle without have to hold the heat block so it does not move.

[@graphguy]

Its mounting holes are not the issue... it is the hotend shroud and fan unit. it does NOT fit all Ender 3 models and documentation about that is terrible.

[@3DPrintSOS]

yep. I mentioned in the video that the problem was the cooling.

[@gabenite]

Yep I installed on a 3v2 and the stock shroud no longer fit

[@jamesmyers9442]

Fits perfectly on gender 5 plus I just installed it

[@Maestro7228]

​@jamesmyers9442 but there's only 2 genders...

[@JoshuaMeland]

​@3DPrintSOS what ended up being your solution to the cr touch and fan shroud making the hotend not fit? I have a v2 neo I'm trying this on, and I finally found new mounts to print, but was hoping for a more practical solution.

[@ObservantSeedsower]

If that's an all metal hot end for printing high temp materials then the real test of how well it resists heat creep is to run some cheap pla at the temp on the high end of recomended temps with 6 mm retractions. Build a model that requires lots of retractions and if no clogs occur then definately a winner.

[@CuttinInIdaho]

wow, thanks man. i did not realize how much engineering went into this. excellent video dude.

[@thegps7197]

Didn't realise you reviewed this product. Bought this as part of an upgrade for my cr10s pro v2 with klipper as I wanted to print more materials at a higher speed. Had to do some minor tweaks to the printer to make it fit but other than that it works really well. One thing to note that this nozzle is a high flow with a large heated area so it doesn't like being used on slow speeds without alot of oozing and air entrapment. I tend to print around 15 to 20mm3/s with a .6mm nozzle and it works great. Did upgrade the heater to high temp 60w cartridge but not sure if that's required.

[@Wildersport]

Are you ever going to do an install video of this hotend?

[@zk_6312]

Looks like good hotend though I am still debating between this one and the Phaetus Dragon.

[@fionoz9586]

How did you manage to unscrew the v6 mount? I'm trying so hard with wrenches and vice grips and I cannot for the love of god unscrew the thing.

[@southernairgun7744]

I installed this on my ender 3v2 and it’s having feeding problems I have lines in my print. That looks like it’s not extruding in different layers

[@3D_Zaga]

Hello can you tell me the Volts ans Wats of the heater??

[@stephanysmith1834]

hi, nice video! Can someone tell me what are the specs of the central hole unscrewed at 6:54... diameter and thread...

[@onecarwood]

Is it high temp then? Can you go 300 or so?

[@3DPrintSOS]

Yes, up to 300c.

[@strangealternative3357]

What’s a good site if I wanna make custom prints and can I do it on my iPad

[@3DPrintSOS]

What do you mean by custom? Check out Printables.com and Thingiverse.com. Not sure if you can slice these files on an iPad. You might be able to use a browser-based slicer but im not sure.

[@strangealternative3357]

@@3DPrintSOS like if I make some digital art from my iPad and want to make it 3D if that makes sense

[@strangealternative3357]

@@3DPrintSOS and when 3D Printing is it only possible to do it on a laptop like I heard people can do it on their phone

[@3DPrintSOS]

@@strangealternative3357 The only 3D Software im familiar with for the iPad is Shapr3D.

[@strangealternative3357]

@@3DPrintSOS oh ok thank you for taking the time to help me I appreciate it

[@baljazz]

Can you cold swap hotends?

[@lordbooo]

What Flow rate were you able to get on that?

[@3DPrintSOS]

That was just an unboxing. Studio is mid remodel. All my machines are unplugged an away. :/

[@ILIKE3DPRINTERS]

More or less >21 mm3/s

[@lukemc5800]

I know this is an old video but hoping someone here has knowledge of how to increase max nozzle temp from 260 to 300. I have all the hardware mods in place but the firmware is preventing any temp higher than 260

[@TurtleWTR]

Would love to know how to add to aquila x2. I'm using Alex firmware and I know a lot of times you half to change thermistor type in firmware. Do you recommend a heater cartridge and thermistor for the x2? Long time follower . Look forward to seeing your videos. Thanks for content.

[@3DPrintSOS]

If you don’t have issues with your current thermistor, I would just use the sleeve that comes with the hotend. Put some thermal grease into it and push in the glass bead thermistor and you’re good to go. Then you’ll have a spare when/if you need.

[@TurtleWTR]

@@3DPrintSOS that's the problem I have had 2 thermistors fail and bought new on Amazon. Finding correct length and value has been hit or miss.Creality was too short and the other read improper. I had to buy Voxelab stock head kit to get it to work right. Would love to upgrade but really don't want to go through a ton of thermistors. Due to firmware or length.

[@kakkelakken]

can i use this on my ender 3 ve se?

[@lotar1228]

Can this be put on the sprite pro?

[@ImLostInLimbo]

Can we see it go in the OG aquila?

[@3DPrintSOS]

I’ll deff try when I get a chance.

[@patrickm6000]

looks like a heck of a nice unit

[@3DPrintSOS]

It really is. Very excited to use it. If this was $10-$15 cheaper, it would sell like hot cakes on national pancake day. With that said, I still think it’s extremely impressive. Might be my new favorite because of all of the mounting options.

[@phildavies318]

hi will it fit on a cr6se ?

[@3DPrintSOS]

Not sure. I’ve never had that machine. Most likely it will need a new duct printed.

[@fredflintstone505]

Does anyone know of some plugs that can be used so when swapping out a hotend you don't have to re-route the wires through the wire looms?

[@urgamecshk]

Ferrules or JST

[@wyldechilde3531]

Looking at getting myself the VOXELAB Aquila X2 and was wondering if this would be a worthwhile upgrade to print more materials at better quality? Liking your content so far!

[@3DPrintSOS]

Yea for sure! The only issue I’m hearing about is having to print a duct. Shouldn’t be a problem though. This hotend is SUPER high quality. I bet it outlasts the printer. haha

[@1LUMIKS]

​@@3DPrintSOS Фёдор подскажи пожалуйста размер винтиков которые вкручиваются сверху. ?

[@aasguard]

went to join the Discord Server and all i got is unable to accept invite

[@3DPrintSOS]

Hmm. Try this link: discord.com/invite/JH2CCjcRpx

[@geoffclayton154]

Can this fit an aquila pro printer?

[@romegutierre5377]

Is this hotend compatible with ender 3 s1

[@JaroslavVazac]

Not at all

[@baxrok2.]

That unit is sweet.

[@3DPrintSOS]

That’s what sh….nvm. It really does feel nice though.

[@randymay]

Oh very nice and I have this same one that I need to make a video about still 😅

[@3DPrintSOS]

It’s really good. The price will deter some folks but as far as hardware quality, this thing is great.

[@randymay]

@@3DPrintSOS Yeah price is always a sticking point for sure

[@kriswingert1662]

Will it work on a Sermoon D1?

[@3DPrintSOS]

Not sure. I unfortunately have no experience with that machine.

[@rodrigo120894]

Will it work on Ender 3 S1 plus?

[@AndrewAHayes]

So if you have an ABL like a BL Touch would adding 2mm of washers to its mount enable this to work correctly? Edit-: Ouch I just saw the price and its more expensive than a Dragonfly, I would rather get the Dragonfly than this as at least I know they work, this is Creality's 3rd attempt to get this right!

[@fionoz9586]

Its 14 dollars in my area

[@nick-of-all-trades]

I've had two of these and both ended up clogging critically.

[@3DPrintSOS]

Oh man. Sorry to hear it. What fan are you cooling this with? Bowden or Direct drive?

[@lliaolsen728]

Did you MPC or PID tune the hot end? Did you limit retractions as suggested? The Thermistor and wires are easily damaged that can throw off what temp you are actually running.

[@triggercrysisjames142]

THANK YOU! So this is compatible with Voxelab Aquila S2 direct drive system! I was trying to figure it out because I am looking to up grade my S2 but wasn't sure. Thanks for the video! Subscription earned!🤘😁👍

[@3DPrintSOS]

The mounts will fit the “mod” from Ray. I’ll have try it when I get a chance.

[@MacAdder1965]

Did you actually test it or just give it the thumbs up on just how it feels and looks?

[@3DPrintSOS]

I got it as soon as it came out and made a video of it unboxing it, showing it off in case someone was interested in it, and gave my first impressions. I gave it a thumbs up on just how it feels and looks. You ever give a Ferrari a thumbs-up even though you’ve never driven one?

[@MacAdder1965]

@@3DPrintSOS I would like to buy it on how it performs not how it looks and feels. Ferrari analogy is ridiculas.

[@3DPrintSOS]

​@@MacAdder1965 I respect that. Always do your research. For the record, I don't believe you. There’s no way you don't care about how things look or feel.

[@MacAdder1965]

@@3DPrintSOS It could look like a pregnant frog for all I care as long as it prints amazing..... Looking amazing and printing like crap doesn't interest me.... This is going to be covered with a fan shroud so how it looks is irrelevent.

[@3DPrintSOS]

You’re not wrong. I agree with you there. @@MacAdder1965 But yeah, I haven’t gotten the change to use this hotend, as much as I wanted to. Just not enough time in the day. Maybe one of my builds will need a hotend in it soon, then I will likely be using this one.

[@phildavies318]

ok, thanks for the info

[@metrogp]

What about a test print? :/

[@Shinare73]

It's a hard sell at that price. I mean, they will probably sell, but to me, at 40 to 50 percent the cost of my entire aquila, it doesn't make sense.

[@3DPrintSOS]

Yeah but let’s say you’re building a machine like a Voron, RatRig, or going all metal on a custom or FLSun machine. This to me is one of those pieces you buy that will literally outlast a build. With that said, I think it should be $50 bucks. But I think we all want everything to be cheaper.

[@durrell246]

The biggest advantage I've seen with those mid range hotends is the better flow rate compared to the stock hotend. It's more consistent, so you can print a bit faster before you run into speed related flaws in your prints. If speed isn't something you're too worried about, it'll make no real difference

[@3DPrintSOS]

I disagree. I don’t go for speed myself but rather the ability to print all materials. More importantly, not having a ptfe tube near my nozzle. This hotend does all that plus more. It’ll outlast most machines. I get that not everyone will see the value in it, but I still think it’s worth me showing it to y’all.

[@urgamecshk]

@@3DPrintSOS but an all metal heartbreak can be had for like 8$

[@3DPrintSOS]

Yes but I honestly don’t think the quality can be compared. I’d take this over a stock hotend with a cheap heat break. I mean don’t get me wrong, an economy car can get you from point a to point b. This is an obvious luxury. So it’s more like a do it all truck. Not for everyone. And that’s ok.

[@macelius]

"Coulda' had a V6"

[@3DPrintSOS]

haha. Nice

[@MarkFraserWeather]

Unfortunately this is shorter than the hotend that comes with the Ender 3 V2 Neo.

[@themountain59]

The red lizard is still the better option😎

[@3DPrintSOS]

I love my red lizards, but they are getting harder to find outside of china. Admittedly this is higher quality. the tolerances and polish is just a bit better.

[@danielharris3827]

you know there is already a V4...

[@3DPrintSOS]

Creality is moving VERY fast now a days

[@jimbeanbragger9209]

BRO WHAT. THE FUCK. IS WITH. THESE INSTRUCTION SHEETS. FROM CREALITY.

[@octogames6823]

I have a Swiss all-metal hotend for the past year and all the sudden I can't compete a print without clogging. I tripped down and cleaned block and metal steam. Made sure all the plastic was removed even in the threads. Verified there is no gap between the nozzle and hotend steam that threads into the block. I repeated this three times. I get clogging during infill and fails the print. Short of buying a new hot end i dont know what I am missing here. I was running black sunlu pla at 205, 215 and 225c. I was thinking hotter the better but this is not the case. In the past I alway ran sunlu pla at 215 to 220c and never had issues until now. Any suggestions?

[@lliaolsen728]

PID or MPC tune the hot end. run the test multiple times, especially if the first tune fails.

[@dekurvajo]

Is there any way to bring it up to 350C?