The Ultimate Turntable Setup Guide

This video explains in detail through ten main steps how to properly and perfectly set up your turntable and align your cartridge in order to achieve optimal playback results
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Music: "Bossa Antigua" Kevin MacLeod (incompetech.com)
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- Alignment protractors:
Vinyl Engine (best site, includes the Technics Baerwald and many others):
www.vinylengine.com/cartridge...
- Precision scale (Neoteck, Samyo etc. price dropped!):
Amazon.com:
www.amazon.com/Professional-P...
Amazon.co.uk:
www.amazon.co.uk/Neoteck-Digi...
- Test LP:
Hi-Fi News:
www.amazon.com/HIFI-NEWS-Test...
Analogue Productions:
www.amazon.com/Ultimate-Analo...

[@georgeanastasopoulos5865]

Very good, I like the step by step, detailed descriptions, explanations, directions.

[@FreazyTek]

Thank you for this guide,really helpful !!!

[@montyhasanewphone]

Beautiful video, very very informative, I used all these tools when I set up my turn table, please keep doing more videos, thanks for sharing your knowledge with all of us. Regards. Norman.

[@anadialog]

Thank you so much Norman!

[@antoinep9733]

Grazie infinite! I was just about to buy a generic alignment protractor online, now I see there is a specific one I can print out for my Technics SL-1300!

[@anadialog]

Prego!!

[@arcturusbbqsausagemaking2435]

Great video I do my setup the same way, I think I came a long way from being a teenager and taping a penny at the best playing and sounding spot on the tone arm Lol

[@yogi9631]

nicely done!

[@michiganrecordclub4484]

I have friends complain of problems due to static. Most of the static is from the record and showed them cleaning, anti-static sleeves, carbon anti-static brushes. Well insulated wires will help in some cases. Zero stat guns are nice but costly. Excellent video.

[@flutist001]

You comment triggered my memory that once I had a turntable came with a radioactive brush mounted in front of the cantilever to remove dust and static. If I happened to touch the brush, the instruction warned me to wash my hands.

[@charlesludwig9173]

Just one thing, with the Technics turntable's s-shaped arm and known stylus overhang, setting the stylus from headshell tail a distance of 52mm allows for the cartridge to simply be eyeballed as being parallel to axis of headshell for the alignment recommended by Technics to be achieved. This means a cartridge such as one from the Ortofon 2M series, which uses integrated nuts, can be mounted in a few seconds instead of hours using the Technics gauge. Of course, if the cantilever is bent the protractor would be needed; but, I've gotta tell ya, if I buy a cartridge with a bent cantilever, it's going back to the seller for another. At any rate, your videos are very good. You are highly qualified and credentialed enough to profess on this topic as you have experienced it.

[@leon9021]

Charles Ludwig Wanted to say this too.

[@anadialog]

Thanks Charles! Well, call me unlucky but in most cases I always see a slight irregularity in the cantilever. I slso sent back my Dynavector and it was again with the cantilever slightly crooked...

[@puciohenzap891]

@@anadialog Im wonder if it would get itself straight after some usage?

[@moussaobeid]

Great work!!!

[@thehunterofdeath2180]

Beautiful technics 👍😎

[@beagle7622]

Spent many frustrating hours installing the head shell wires. If you know someone who plays around with electronics get them to do it & as he says do not take the stylus cover off. There will be tears if you do. When you do take it off just be careful. This guy is really good, knows what he’s doing.

[@natanpierce495]

Thanks....love ALL your stuff. :-)

[@richardsmith6431]

Connect the cartridge wires AFTER mounting the cartridge in the head shell. This provides a more stable environment for connecting them.

[@sumitgenzyme]

Nice video.

[@mosinatic2011]

Now i know how much i love my p mount cartridge.

[@tombyrnerocks]

Yup

[@charlesmckinnis2718]

Dude, rough night last night?!! You are having a hard time with your words....Dynavector is pronounced just as it looks...DYNA-VECTOR. Not Dina. Resonance is just as it looks, not risanance and other examples I won't cite today....go back and view your own video, it's worth a laugh! Coming from me who has been doing this for the last 55 years, you have done one of the best set-up videos on KZbin....that's a compliment! ....By the way That Dynavector DV-20x2 is a fine cartridge and I truly believe is THE pivot point towards Diminishing returns, in the cartridge world...No real need for those $5k to $15K brag pieces! I have used this as my reference cartridge since they came out in the 70's, in the red clear bodies; before most of you were born! I'm on my 3rd one! Anyway, in your sequencing, please do do ALL cartridge mounting and overhang and alignment work to the end, before zeroing out the tone arm weight and antiskate adjustments...Cartridge weight is ALWAYS and the END of everything you do in cartridge set-up, except Anti-Skate adjustment, for safety sake of that $1,000 cantilever and stylus....In-fact, during ALL alignment and tracking force and VTA adjustments, TURN THE ANTISKATING OFF. That makes it much easier to make all adjustments and you won't cause a cantilever snap, because the arm went flying due to the Antiskate pull. Most don't know this until it happens....If you snap the cantilever, you will find that a new replacement of a replaceable cantilever and diamond runs about 80% of the cost of a complete new cartridge, ON MOVING MAGNET CARTRIDGES! On ANY moving coil, the thing is NOT REPLACEABLE, PERIOD, INDUSTRY WIDE; but must be sent back to the factory for rebuilding, and that sometimes CAN EXCEDE the cost of replacing the whole cartridge, because of scale in manufacturing..... BE VERY CAREFULL, I will admit, I have done this and DO NOT let just anyone play records on your quality turntables....They don't have the same respect or knowledge as you do, for the cost and fragility of the system.... and YES, I have had that HAPPEN TO ME TOO!!! I am a child of the 60's.... This is all VERY important, BUT as few folks out there DO NOT spend enough time selecting the CARTRIDGE when buying a turntable....they may spend $1,500-2,500, or MORE on a table and then stick on the cheep, high margin cartridge that the dealer recommends...he's in it for the money. Remember a turntable is just something that holds the cartridge steady and spins the platter, really not rocket science....the magic is ALL in the CARTRIDGE and in its diamond tip of many configurations and cantilever materials. Doing a poor job of your cartridge selection for your expensive turntable would be like going out and buying a new Porsche and putting in a GM 4 CYL engine!!! Get it folks!!!!!!!!!! It is almost a lost art and glad you put this out for the younger folks coming up through the ranks. If you really want a challenge, try setting up a tangential Rabco table and find out how TUFF really is! I will leave you all with this: there is a lot of HYPE in the audio world (LIKE $2,000+ cables)....BUT a well built turntable is by far the best looking piece of gear in your stereo system, feel free to seek and find not only FUNCTION, but BEAUTY in your prized turntable and its CARTRIDGE! I did that too!!!! Peace!!!!!!!

[@anadialog]

I am just going to say that I am Italian and that is why I mispronounce several names. Sorry about that.

[@frankgeeraerts6243]

Hello Guido ...........very nice explanation for people discovering vinyl 🙂 antiskating is a very hot topic .............with higher ( 2-3 gr ) it is easier/ less critic than with very low tracking forces ( 1-1.5 gr ), in fact it depends also on the profile of the needle shape , therefor the use of a mirror / no modultion as some do to tune theantiskatingn disc is usefull but not perfect , the ear tells a lot when there is lack of stress on heavier modulted passages and also when you lower the cartridge onto the grooves when it falls fawless into the grooves , starting the music without any notion of hesitaion with peace and no torsion of the cantilever . The test grooves with different modulation intensity are a good help also , Test trecords from orthophon and the Shure test records ( with one received on demand with the purchase of a V15 III record ) has even tracks to identify the resonance frequency of the arm maas /catridge compliance , just one final observation , the VTA and the SRA are related ................todatone should optimize for the SRA ( 92° ).......... When all is correct the sound will be GOOD to VERY GOOD....................but when you realy get it fine tuned it will change into MAGIC ............a quite different sensation ......... then the wise audiophile stops to try even more , a little above or a little less and the magic is GONE and you have to start it all over again hoping to find the magic again... The last comment is because all the perfect adjustments are based on the ASSUMPTION that the caqntilever and the STYLUS are perfectly geometrical aligned by the manufacturer witch is not necesairy the case even with very expensive cartridges .........some manufacturers do a better job than others , thats( the reason in most cases for fine tuning by the ear after one adjusted the cartridge ... The ear is the FINAL JUDGE !

[@anadialog]

I'll start from the end. I actually put a big accent on the fact that cantilevers are actually in most cases not aligned and hence use them to allign the cart. Maybe you skipped that part. Yes, I agree that test disks are a great way to establish if the stylus is centered in fact I did a dedicated video: kzbin.info/www/bejne/Y4OmpaWnpqyFhsk And also a dedicated in depth video on VTA and SRA: kzbin.info/www/bejne/rF68qn6hqd2Umsk

[@frankgeeraerts6243]

@@anadialog Ok , i will have a look ..........my comment was mainly to those audiophiles to bring that to their attention , but indeed you did it already ! Have a nice day ....

[@thomasallen2459]

Great channel can you possibly do a video on how to set up a Shure SME Series 3 tonearm. Thanks

[@andrew2nasty867]

Good info

[@AriKona]

Just started watching your videos and I am very impressed. Straightforward and understandable. Quality information and no harmful personal bias. My only question is why you chose "dia" versus "mono" in your naming of this channel? It doesn't really matter because either way you provide great content. I look forward to future instructional videos. Thanks.

[@anadialog]

AriKona, thank you very much! I decided to use dialog, as explained in a few videos, because I like to interact with the people through the comments and other ways sometimes. That is why I hope to keep this channel a dialog instead of a monolog. I do undestand that soneobe may expect two people talking...

[@AriKona]

That certainly makes sense. I most likely didn't see yet or missed your explanation, but you are indeed correct.

[@greatheightsu]

thx for showing me how to use technics protractor

[@anadialog]

Thank you!

[@aletrustno1]

Hi! Really nice video and great channel, I just have a question about alignment. I have a technics sl-d1 that has the same specs of yours in terms of alignment (s-shaped arm, pivot to spindle distance,ecc). Do you suggest to use the technics overhang gauge OR the technics baerwald protractor from vinylengine? Because I can’t use both, as the baerwald needs the cartridge in a different position than the overhang (with baerwald the cartridge is all the way at the top of the headshell). Thanks in advance!

[@anadialog]

In the end I prefer the Baerwald, which is specificalky designed for that model and truly works great...be precise when you print the protractor (possibly on heavy weight paper) and when you punch the whole...must be EXACTLY in the middle!

[@gee3883]

I just said to my wife " pass me the screwdriver please,,, flathead " now she's not talking to me !

[@anadialog]

🤣

[@Badassvidsz]

Very detailed video as usual but for the anti-skate regulation i've seen in some videos we can use blank vinyl records which is also very helpfull by my opinion and what's yours about this ?

[@anadialog]

Yes, you will see the arm travel if it is set too high but it will not tell you the perfect amount. Only software or a test disc do that.

[@Badassvidsz]

@@anadialog Thank you .

[@danilomontoya1525]

Excellent video, however I think it is important to point out that the necessary anti skating adjustment is less as the tip of the stylus is thinner (in fact there is a relationship, more than proportional, between the less thickness of the stylus and the less adjustment of anti skating), then the correct way to calibrate it, if you don't have a test disc (which happens in most cases), is by ear, instead of adjusting it to the same level as the tracking weight. Using a grooveless disc (blank) is not recommended as it does not have the friction of the grooves where the stylus does its job.

[@joemartin6439]

Dual 1229 on an audio sandbox. On a play heavy heavy stand. Graham Slee Relfex m separate power supply Grace F-9 Ruby analog Magictool

[@jro7075]

Hello there watching this video is a great tutorial can not get any better I would like to ask the scale you used is the one I have I also have another scale which is a little different you hook this little plate on the side of scale to mimick wherte record would be height wise but when I use both of these they give way !!!different readings the one you show reads higher than the other one I have which one should I trust I don't go by counterwieght on tone arm it usaually not accurate so which one can I trust JRo the confused??????

[@anadialog]

That is annoying! Now we can't even trust a digital scale? This is shocking! Try to weigh something you know for sure how much it is heavy, for example a 5gr weight and see which one is more accurate.

[@HeyLiem]

I know a guy who made a recording booth out of a walk-in closet. He covered the walls and ceiling with soundproofing foam. It works well, you can feel a strange sort of air pressure drop on your ears when you're in the room. It really does greatly reduce all noises in the room. I wonder if it would be a good idea to cover the lid of the turntable with this type of material, To reduce any feedback vibrations between the vinyl in the needle and the sound coming out of the speakers simultaneously? The only thing I don't like about the soundproofing foam is it is highly flammable. I wonder if non-flammable is easily available man affordable?

[@anadialog]

I know that sensation, it's the same in a recording studio. The sound is too dampened for me. It seems unnatural, no reverb, and it almost hurts when silent.

[@marcoscastro7650]

Can you review your Nakamichi Dragon cassette deck

[@anadialog]

Hi Marcos...I am not a big review fan...maybe in the future...I am thinking of a deck video...

[@puciohenzap891]

For Technics I've been told just to set 52mm overhang and the cartridge straight in the headshell but it's either 52mm overhamg 'or' protractor?

[@charlesludwig9173]

You are absolutely right. Just set stylus to headshell tail distance to 52mm using gauge and then square cart to headshell. That’s it to realize Technics tracking error scheme.

[@Ninja_Gaijin]

For Shure M447 and 44g carts, should you have the screws showing on the top or the bottom (do you put the screw or the washer at the top)? Also shouldn't you do tonearm height before cartridge weight/zeroing? Also for tonearm height, you need a (NOT SHARP EDGED!) ruler to measure, it's really hard to tell by eye if it's over or underhung. Also there is no 'correct' pressure, how do you know 2.2g is the 'right' tracking? Maybe 2.154 is better. Or 2.213. You can only test this by changing during playback and checking your ears/spectrum. Every cart has a sweet spot and it probably won't be on an exact number. So, you can go crazy trying to find the 'best' weight or just accept a general sweet spot.. making sure it is 2.2g and no 2.1g shouldn't make a huge difference.

[@anadialog]

Uuh! A lot of questions there. For the cart the direction of the screws is the same. Washer goes under head of screw to avoid damage and lock the screw in position. The VTA of tonearm is not tied to the cartidge weight zeroing since we are going to use a gigital scale afterwoards the tracking force is going to be slected afterwards. The important is the VTA, vertical tracking angle, not the tonearm height. Usually it is obtained when parallel but not necessarily. It also depends from the compliance of the cart itself. One suggestion: thick the rules, don't apply them mechcanically. In any case, a ruler can help, sure. The correct weight is indicated by the manufacturer as I pointed out in the video, who suggest for my Dynavector a tracking force of between 1.8g and 2.2g. A rule that I follow, is to set the maximum recommended tracking force.

[@annescott2296]

My turntable is a 40 year old SONY and I have done all the adjustments but I was playing music one night and something dident look right. My headshell was straight out from the arm but it looked like it was on a angle from side to side. So I put a level on it and shure enough it was not level. so there was some play and I moved it until it would read level. My sylist was not straight down it is now. HOODAT

[@coin777]

Hi i have clearaudio concept turntable and i recently changed the cartridge to AT-ART9. I have the same scale as You and if i place the weight close to the edge it has 20% more VTF than closer to the center. What place should i place the scale? Also the suggested VTF for the ART9 is 2.2g, but i can't make it to track properly at this weight, i need to go to min 2,6g. I read that the magnetic floating tonearms are hard to set the VTF on, can You tell me whats wrong, and how to fix it?

[@AmazonasBiotop]

coin777 the magnetic floating tonearm is VERY sensitive to vertical vibrations. Like if you have for example a woden construction floor when you go/walk on it flexes up and down it will go up truth the floor and of course move the TT up and down also but your floating arm have its own mass and will not move with the TT plinth. (The magnetic suspension act as a spring!) There is KZbiner (sorry forgot his name) that got his tonearm on just that TT and arm combo, replaced just because of the above senario, with a more traditional non floating one. There the tonearm is fastened fysical with bearings to the plinth. So the TT movement will force the tone arm to move with it. Another tip is if that is your problem and you can't get another arm is to try to mount a shelf on a wall instead. To eleminate the influence of the floor.

[@anadialog]

I see that you yave already picked up an answer...I am very curious about the scale that chages and foes not go below 2.6! Try changing scale. Now they are much cheaper. Do not put 2.6 it might ruin your records after a while. Position thr scale between the spindle and the edge.

[@mikehydropneumatic2583]

@@AmazonasBiotop Hi there, I believe you refer to Jeff from Vinyl Room. Do have the magnetic arm on the Concept and in my case (concrete floor) no issues a great and with MC even stunning table for its price.

[@BrandonDJx]

Where did you get your anti skating regulation from 2.2 Anti skating seems pretty extreme to me. I'm not sure the true way to set anti skating but I have watched a few videos where people have used a blank side of a record to reference how the stylus tracks. Some people recommended tweaking the anti skate whilst the record is playing and setting the anti skate so the stylus coasts in the middle and doesn't drift in either direction. In other videos people have suggested it should drift towards the center but it doesn't make sense because the stylus isn't sitting in any grooves therefore isn't tracking anything? I set my anti skate just by listening to a record i'm fimilar with and tweaking it, I've never needed more than 1-2 antiskate. I run Orfoton Scratch MK2.

[@anadialog]

The only way to set correctly antiskating is using software, but it is to complicated and expensive IMO, or, as I do, a test disc like HiFi+. That will immediately tell you if your stylus is dragging on the side of the groove.

[@attherockshow8902]

How important would you say VTA or more specifically on the fly VTA to be ? The 1200G looks pretty easy to change VTA.

[@anadialog]

It is important but not as much as cartrdige allignment. The cart and arm, even if not perfectly angled do tend to fall in a correct position, more or less.

[@boymj]

🤘

[@MOOeymania]

How do you like the dynavector 20x2? I am trying to decide between that and a Hana M series

[@anadialog]

I have the low output version. It's very nice, but not exciting as for example my Lyra Dorian...

[@johns6481]

If I acquired technics SL-900 and wanted to pair them with Klipsch RP-600m. What else do I need? Receiver and pre amp? Any affordable suggestions?

[@anadialog]

Indeed. If you stay in the vintage market there are plenty of solutions, otherwise here I put together some affordable solutions: kzbin.info/www/bejne/gXOWmWeGbpqNl80

[@leozebiosthor6242]

Loved the video, just not sure about your anti-skating method of regulation... To be honest, I ve seen at least 4 different methods of calibration and I am still not sure witch one to use. Peace.

[@anadialog]

Thanks! Well, the test lp did not buzz (it slways does a bit!) So the anti-skating is properly set...at least in my situation!

[@bobhickey77]

I've seen some test discs that have a blank section and you set the stylus down into that area and adjust the anti-skating until the arm doesn't move. Too little and it'll move toward the spindle, too much and it moves toward the lead-in groove. All these adjustments are pretty delicate. Back in the day, I got a Shure V15 Type V cartridge that came with it's own duo-point alignment kit. The "protractor" had a part where the cartridge snapped into it and then you slipped the other end over the spindle. From there, you just tightened up the screws to secure it to the headshell, perfectly aligned. I also had something to place inside the cartridge (where the stylus plugged in) so that you could make sure the headshell wasn't twisted and also check/adjust the VTA. The test disc I got was also part of the kit, but I think you had to send away to get that. I got mine for free and used it to adjust my cartridge and it sounded great when I was done! Good Luck!

[@anadialog]

Thanks for sharing your experience!

[@dippin1523]

anti skating is a touchy thing. All cartridges are different. Usually lower compliance cartridges need less anti skate and higher compliance cartridges like moving magnet cartridges need more. YMMV.

[@dv9602]

Which protractor do you suggest installing an OC-105 cartridge? I'm struggling like hell aligning my cartridge. I can use all tips you can give me

[@anadialog]

The problem is not the cart but the turntable and tonearm combination...

[@dv9602]

@@anadialog I own the Onkyo CP-1050.

[@anadialog]

@@dv9602 You need something like this: www.llenjob.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=184513

[@dv9602]

@@anadialog thanks I ordered one! Hope it will help me

[@anadialog]

Great!

[@fraicheness]

Hello! How come you choose the max. allowed tracking force? Until now I've only heard that it shoube as low as possible (for example 2 or less grams) and if I have to choose a number from 1,5g to 2,5g I should always go for the middle.

[@anadialog]

Hi there! Well, because the maximum will give you the full experience for that specific cart. The important is not to exceed it...

[@ralex3697]

Orest B. The heavier tracking provides a deeper bass response, but trust your ears 👂

[@fraicheness]

@@ralex3697 thank you for the tip

[@HenrikG1963]

Nice video. Under connect TT to preamp you illustrated with a text showing "Any of the audio input can be used to connect your Turntable" Shouldn't be preamp instead of turntable?

[@anadialog]

Yes, the preamp output, you are correct. That was a stock image, in any case the figures and scheme of connection is correct and in fact you immediately detected that mistake.

[@christiand6768]

Not sure if I'm correct but that technics prottracker for technics sl 1200 is only for mk2 and up. The first generation technics sl 1200 from 1972 to 1977 have a different arm that have 14 mm overhang instead of 15 mm.

[@user-sk2rm9vy4n]

It's true, but the problem is actually not the overhang, but the different pivot to spindle distance. Overhang will vary depending on the alignment strategy. I guess the slots in the headshell may not be long enough to use Baerwald on a SL-1200 MKI. Stevenson could work and would be an improvement over the stock alignment: alignmentprotractor.com/custom-arc-protractor?table=Technics+SL-1200+MKI&pts=206&area=DIN&alignment=Stevenson&printerx=100.00&printery=100.00

[@johnogorman2920]

Hi, here looking for VTA info, how do you measure/adjust it. Newbie and maybe you can help...Is putting Nagaoka MP110 on Fluance RT82 oK? I know the weight is ok but tahts all I know...Any info / tips? Thanks

[@anadialog]

Welcome on board! Here is a dedicated video I recently made on VTA etc.: kzbin.info/www/bejne/rF68qn6hqd2Umsk The correct combination cart/tonearm (not turntable) is obtainable here: kzbin.info/www/bejne/imWVaaB_qtxsf7M

[@StardustRenegade]

Which settings did you use to print that Technics protractor?

[@anadialog]

You mean in the printer? Just 100% imprinting A4 format...

[@RazorStrap]

Put some white tape on the bridge of your glasses to make you look supper cool and special.

[@anadialog]

🤣🤣🤣

[@foobar9107]

In step 6, what if the cantilever hits both null points, however, is not perfectly perpendicular to the platter? For example, what if the cantilever was at a 70% angle relative to the platter when looking at from the front of the cartridge/head shell?

[@anadialog]

Hi Aaron, that is a different tyoe of adjustment called VTA (vertical tracking angle). Nit all turntables have this possibility, dhich lets you adjust the hight of the arm utill it is perfectly perpendicular to the platter...

[@cryptodream5092]

Aaron Hanusa that’s when you crack open a good bottle of Whiskey 🥃 drink a large glass of it, wait a few minutes and then stand 2 degrees to the left or right. At that point, it would appear to be perfectly level to the platter 😀

[@JustABowlOfCherries]

I've done everything right except setting the overhang gauge. Does it make a big difference?

[@anadialog]

Some, it’s the combination of all aspects that make a great sound…

[@JustABowlOfCherries]

@@anadialog I think I'm going back to CD

[@michelvigneres7033]

sorry but for those who don't have a VTF adjustable tone arm, that is most of the time the case, we don't have an answer on how to first check and just adjust the arm to a parallel line with the plate.I always think from all the videsos I have seen, it is the trickiest step.another thing that isn't crystal clear is the Azimuth setting.What tool are you using to set it ?

[@anadialog]

Maybe you mean VTA. I did a dedicated video on that: kzbin.info/www/bejne/rF68qn6hqd2Umsksi=c-_pWW2I3u-lPxrW In the video I also explain a cheap way to set azimuth otherwise the fancy way is this: kzbin.info/www/bejne/n6SYoGmuqt5_l6ssi=bduxtdGv87APIR2C

[@shaun9107]

Welcome Back I had an issue with the weight balancing 250 mg , I had this setting for some time , I was looking at the stylus as it was level but this scrapes the record after I came aware of what it was doing wrong , I set the balance weight to 0.5 mg , this may be under but as long as my records are fine its a plus . It sounds far more crisp now I have took all that weight off the record . If I did not have you tube I would of carried on with this setting & living with this error for a lot longer . These 80s pop albums sound far better than the up to date club trax . Analog sounds better detailed than these Digital Discs . Bear in mind , my decks have not really been used to much as it takes a bit of organizing a mix with records so less damage . Is it true that a stylus should be replaced every 2 years ? Also they say that we should replace the cartrage as it age & stiffens ? My Pioneer cartrage sounds fresh after all these years but my Audio Teck sounds batterd out which came with the decks 2004

[@anadialog]

Always use a precision scale! You must substitute your stylus after 500-700 hours. Sometimes even more. It depends from the tracking force. In any case you need to check thr stylus to be sure. I will do a video on this in the next future. No need to change the cartridge if things are sounding ok.

[@billwillard9410]

Would’ve appreciated a little more detail on the VTA portion; that’s the part that everyone either ignores or gives a passing glance. An easy tip for measuring how to get the tonearm level without eyeballing it.

[@colinvannbohemen11]

Yep bill you're right...and vta of a tone arm bears as much signature to the tonal balance of music as does the bass and treble of an amplifier. ideally the tone arm should be perfectly horizontal to the playing surface of the record. imagine that as being 0 bass and 0 treble. any downward angle of the arm to disc surface increases bass whilst any upward angle does quite the opposite and increases treble. if eyeballing a horizontal vta of arm to disc isn't your thing, just stop the t/table,rest the arm at a given point and measure the height difference all along the length of the tone arm. your vta should then be perfect.

[@colinvannbohemen11]

And that is ofcourse...if your tone arm allows for height adjustment!

[@frankgeeraerts6243]

Important is to adjust the SRA ............the VTA is only function of the SRA and the choice of the maufacturer.............this is mostly missunderstood by audiophiles . The arm is idealy HORIZONAL for optimized balanced behaviour.....

[@wilcocharlie7233]

Peppa Pig will always get your music sounding good LOL

[@anadialog]

:-)) Who has kids understands!

[@jaylundgreen]

If you run a ground from turntable to preamp you don't need to run one from preamp to receiver?

[@anadialog]

Usually, no. But when you experience strange hums I personally try everything and in some case crazy things do work!

[@jaylundgreen]

Update: I’m running a Fluance RT-85 into an Ifi Air Zen phono preamp with the ifi silent power supply. Ground wire from turntable to preamp. Preamp into AV receiver but not into the phono input. AVR is in another room so it’s a looooooong cable run. I’m getting no noise at all. No hum and no hiss. There is no ground wire from preamp to av receiver.

[@giannibottegal4556]

pioneer pl30k how to adjust overhang? Does anybody knows? Thanks for help

[@dadrummer1977]

PLX-500 Pioneer Dj Turntable?

[@charlesludwig9173]

The Technics alignment tool is sufficient to get the Technics tracking error specification.

[@anadialog]

That is only to set the cartrdige at the right distance, it does not make you set the correct position of the stylus.

[@ZeusTheTornado]

@@anadialog It does, because it has an arrow on the front which aligns with your stylus once you set it straight. Personally, it's given me much better results than the Stevenson protractor and this Technics one you showed in the video. I found it a lot more easier to setup as well.

[@charlesludwig9173]

ANA[DIA]LOG no, when the cart is aligned to Technics instructions, squaring cart body to headshell, it delivers Technics tracking error specification. The process requires no more or less eyeballing than aligning with a protractor and there’s actually less parallax error, since the cart body is in contact with the headshell.

[@ZeusTheTornado]

@@charlesludwig9173 Exactly. Personally, I just do a perfectly frontal photo of the stylus on the gauge, and with an app that generates a grid on the photo I check if it's totally straight. It even worked on a curved cantilever.

[@charlesludwig9173]

Zeus The Tornado - Gangsta Rap Sub al español that’s clever.

[@wiseheadproductionsllc6653]

What I never understood about paper protractors and how can you know you've made the punched hole exactly in the middle, especially if alignment needs to be so precise. That being said I used a paper protractor for my set up. I used a hole punch and put a hole punch reinforcement ring around the hole. Still I question the accuracy. Also I barely know what I am doing :)

[@anadialog]

😂

[@anadialog]

I am sure you ate doing fine (considering your concerns)!

[@MrRobfarr343]

You should wear your own t-shirts in the videos-it's self advertising. Thanks for the informative program.

[@anadialog]

I do every now and then...thanks! :-)

[@manofcolor]

There is an antiskating disc with no grooves that you put the needle on to see it pulls. My record players antiskating is not accurate with the needle weight, hence, I don't rely on the premeasured numbers.

[@anadialog]

Indeed! A great empirical solution.

[@johnsweda2999]

it's not the arm that has to be level to the surface of the record is the body of the stylus has to be parallel to the record surface. That's what the little pimple on the stylist is for, draw a line on a piece of card bent over so it stands on the records make sure this line is 100% parallel, line up the gap by placing the edge of stylist body on the Edge of a record, between the stylist and the record on the card. It is not necessarily the case to have the platter level? if it's belt driven this doesn't apply for direct drive? You want to have a line from your motor spindle to the centre spindle and beyond this line needs to be somewhere about 0.016875 of the degree off vertical access. You can get app for your phone to measure this, This helps with the pulling of the belt on the platter and the centrifugal force will level itself out. You have to make sure the line of off access is exactly parallel to the motor spindle.

[@anadialog]

Hi there, well as I said and showed in thr video VTA is not about parallelism, that is only a simple way to achieve it. The real goal is to have a 20-30° angle between the cantilever and the record surface.

[@leon9021]

John sweda I dont quite understand you here.

[@leon9021]

ana[dia]log Isnt it more about having the stylus close to 92 degrees against the record, ideally when in play?

[@johnsweda2999]

Leon thepro in an ideal world you wanted 92° but of course records come in different thicknesses I'm not sure what you don't get! What don't you understand!

[@leon9021]

John sweda I just didnt understand your examples and explanations.

[@eldeny62]

Currently there is no register at Vinylengine 😢😢

[@charlesmiller6281]

Since when did we start calling a phono stage a pre-amp? Don't ever try and crimp leads like this. Put a round toothpick in first, it will help keep it round and avoid crushing. Don't confuse cantilever with stylus. The stylus is used to adjust overhang, the distance from the tone arm pivot point. The cartridge is adjusted so the stylus falls precisely on the two alignment cross-hairs. The cantilever (or cartridge body) is used to adjust alignment so that the cantilever is parallel to the alignment marks on the guide. Two different things! Adjusting one usually affects the other, so be careful and recheck. Adjusting VTA visually like shown here is ballparking at best. Always adjust VTA by ear. Play some music, adjust up or down very slightly, keep going in the direction that sounds better until it stops sounding better. Then go gradually back to where it sounds the best you can get it. Anti-skating, also ballpark then set by ear. If you hear mis-tracking or breakup in the left channel, that is too much anti-skating so reduce it. Vice versa if the right breaks up.

[@anadialog]

Charles, you are really getting things wrong here...just do a google search and see for yourself! A phono stage is usually called a phono pre-amp, because it is a step-up pre-amplification before actual amplification. Leads nowadys are sold open. You MUST gently crimp them, otherwise they will slip off 100%. You are confusing cantilever and stylus. The stylus IS the diamond tip (or other precious stones you use), the cantilever is the little rod that holds the stylus, not the cartrdige body like you claim. For tye rest of your comments I may agree even though you really need a trained ear and a lot of people what precision, not approximation.

[@charlesmiller6281]

@@anadialog Phono stage or phono preamp, either way the key word is phono. Which you do not say. 3:03 Please read what I actually wrote, and listen to what you actually said. Your diagram has it right but that's not what you say and that's not what you put in your great big yellow title. Also what I said was NOT to not crimp, but to place a toothpick in first before crimping to avoid crushing. You yourself mention the importance of not crushing. Well, the toothpick is a whole lot better solution, not only prevents crushing it is round. Credit Michael Fremer, whose videos you should study before you try making any more of your own. And try reading my comments again. Stylus is for adjusting overhang (falls on the curved Baerwald line, precisely on the cross-mark shown). Cantilever is for adjusting zenith (parallel to the parallel lines). Do you even mention overhang or zenith? No. Two different things you confuse into the one you call alignment. If you are still confused I recommend again the Michael Fremer videos. As a matter of fact watch them anyway, he is the best!

[@anadialog]

Charles, for goodness sake, there is a HUGE image that says PHONO PRE-AMP on it, showing all the proper connections, do you really think it is useful to say this?! I am cutting out words to save time. Ok for the crimping, I misunderstood. My fault there. No I don't and do not want to use difficult words (when possible), this is a video clearly for newbies, not for people who watch Fremer who already know what is overhang, zenith, compliance, bias, VTA etc. I am among the few online, if not the only one, that shows the importance to correctly set the cantilever parallel, coincident to the line (yes, your zenith angle) in the alignment protractor...NEVER use the cartridge body. The cantilever is in several cases not perfectly parallel to the body. No confusion, since the process is correct, as you said, and explained in a simple way, accessible to all. No harm in that since the goal is to do it correctly, not inform people about jargon. In any case, I think that you missed the chance to just simply add that extra info in a comment for people that might want to go more in depth, I would have acknowledge that, instead of protracting a sterile attack.

[@dadrummer1977]

How Do I Adjust Tonearm weight

[@Mrsteve4761]

Typically by rotating on the tonearm; one direction will increase weight (at the stylus), the other will decrease.

[@billhardy6176]

8

[@joseauger1353]

I noticed you did not go into the details of setting the VTA. The VTA must be correct or you will not get the excellent results that are possible with the Technics turntable. There are several transparent protractors that can be used for VTA and Azimuth. In addition, to get a perfect VTA with the turntable mat you have (Stein), which I also have, you need to add a spacer for the cartridge or you will never achieve perfect VTA. This is because the Stein mat is very thin compared to the Technics rubber mat.

[@anadialog]

I did an in depth video on VTA and more here: kzbin.info/www/bejne/rF68qn6hqd2Umsk&feature=share9

[@jmorep]

Not sure how to connect colored wires for needle

[@anadialog]

Usually it's: Upper left = white Upper right = red Lower left = blue Lower right = green But you need to check your cartridge to be sure!

[@guillaume95870]

Where is the primordial Azimuth setup ?

[@BrossIsindaHouse]

For the 1200, here (turning to the screws below the tonearm, next to the grip for the headshell) kzbin.info/www/bejne/mZSliX6prpKfqpY

[@1jtolvey]

IF YOUR LUCKY -- YOUR LEVEL IS ACCURATE TO 1/4 DEGREE . SOME GO TO 1 ARC SECOND .

[@anadialog]

True...a high precision level is best!

[@stevenvox6549]

With everyone working at home, you can't play your stereo anyway - so save your money for a house instead.

[@1jtolvey]

" PERFECTLY LEVEL " = IMPOSSIBLE , SOME LEVELS MEASURE 1 ARC MINUTE , WOOD = 1 ARC MINUTE PER HOUR .

[@anadialog]

Yes of course...its just a way of saying...lets say as closw as possible to perfectly leveled..

[@ohjoy40]

I had to watch since the headlines said ultimate turntable setup. Sorry to say this far from that, this is a beginners guide at best.

[@anadialog]

Ok, I accept that. Can you please explain why?

[@Rimetea]

it's impossible to download from vinylengine....

[@anadialog]

Have you registered?

[@user-sk2rm9vy4n]

@@anadialog registering on vinylengine hasn't been possible for ages.

[@jmanzemail]

Nice BUT... You lost me when you didn't precision balance the tone arm and made light of the need for extreme precision at this step if you want your cartridge alignment to sound amazing at all three tracking pivots...

[@anadialog]

No need Joseph. When I set the tracking force with a digital scale I already have a precise balance.

[@grizzlyaddams3606]

@@anadialog precise balance but not precise angle. I believe that was the gentlemans point.

[@anadialog]

Hi, angle of what? VTA?

[@rebeccastone3301]

You guys do more talking than a yenta …

[@Kwippy]

You missed out speed checking with strobe and pitch adjust, even though you are evidently using a turntable with these essential features. Many low end turntables cannot be relied on to consistently spin at the right speed so they provide these features. Not that the strobe is any good at detecting small fluctuations. Of course for the same money you could buy a better sounding turntable without strobe but then you would have to blindly trust that the manufacturers engineered their products properly so they turn at the right speed.

[@anadialog]

As you have correctly wrote, it's a check, not a setup. Here is a dedicated video on the topic: kzbin.info/www/bejne/labKZ2mNhqaAm68 If you don’t want to use an app I highly recommend this cheap item I reviewed: kzbin.info/www/bejne/d5zbXnehfLiFfqM Finally, the Turntable, which I don't have anymore, is the a high-end model by Technics recently produced, the 1200G.

[@chuckcox192]

lower your nose and look directly into the camera. You look snoty with your head jacked backed.

[@anadialog]

Old stuff, now looking better! ;-)