Building a basic saber with sound PART 2

[@brianpatrick6102]

I have to say, this is the best instructional vid of any subject I have seen to date. All the little tips and details are so important for a clean, hassle free build. I really appreciate the attention to detail and clear, concise instructions you've given here. Thank you!

[@dansloan4072]

ohhhh.... love your videos! I have been bitten by the bug, lol! I have so many ideas!!! I'm 52 years young, and this stuff never gets old. may the force be with me!

[@malachicook8928]

Awesome. Thanks so much for this 2-part tutorial. I've been looking into doing this myself for a while now, and haven't found such a thorough guide for putting together an MHS (or otherwise) saber.

[@swordove]

Thank you sooo much for putting together this video series! So well done! Succinct, yet covers the topic so well. I didn't have any confidence in putting together a saber with sound before seeing this, and now I have full confidence and cannot wait!

[@staiton3889]

God this is so incredibly helpful! I’ve been scared to venture forth into something custom like this but now I feel capable. Thank you!

[@morlockmeat]

You are the Bob Ross of Lightsaber-building !

[@ErvPlecter]

Great job again on that tutorial series Rob !!! RTFM for the win indeed :-)

[@JackSilver1410]

I've never done any high end electronic work before and the only soldering I've done was for plumbing pipes in shop class, but you know what? Challenge accepted. I like to think I'm pretty good an following good visual instructions and building my own personalized lightsaber sounds like a fun long term project.

[@Da_Swifta]

Yeah man, really makes you feel like a Jedi/sith in training. Much more satisfying than buying a finished one, even if it probably won’t look as good lol

[@steventurner6692]

i like that you pointed out your mistake and showed how to fix it.

[@lyconxero457]

Wow, these two videos were just awesome! The casual ease with which you just constructed an iconic weapon was amazing. I really like that modular design as well. Even if I didn't want to swap out parts with other sabers it just seemed to make the inside of the saber less crowded and easier to manage. Next up I need to find a video that you've done that shows how to wire a more complicated sound card with one of those color changing LEDs.

[@MadcowGenesis]

Thanks! I may do a video exactly like that sometime this year.

[@mds1422]

Thx for the great video. I'm sure I will be visiting all your videos fairly frequently.

[@AR-pb2zh]

Excellent videos! Great job!

[@TravisRamage]

love your videos. We've learned a lot from them so far. we'd love to see a tutorial on how to use the new harness for NBv3, a tri-cree/rebel and possibly a charge port. We bought these from TCSS and are bit uncertain of proper wiring.

[@MadcowGenesis]

Thanks! Between the recharge port video I did, and the NB manual, you should be able to get it.

[@garrettlapham7839]

Great as always I was wondering if in the future u might do a tutorial for wiring a PC Prizm V3.5

[@MadcowGenesis]

Thanks. I will add that suggestion to the list!

[@general_dude8025]

And maybe a verso now, lol

[@darkshadows65]

So amazingly good. Very impressive. Thanks Rob! Edit: I wonder how much more complicated it is for triCree

[@Skyclaw144]

Hey Rob, excellent tutorial. I will definitely be trying this out eventually. I was wondering though, if you were ever going to do a tutorial like this for the PC or CF.

[@MadcowGenesis]

I will put that idea on the list!

[@James45602]

I wish you sold the whole black part with the nano setup that you can plug and unplug to use in other sabers for sale cause I'd definitely buy it at I could only setup up to the led part with it connector.

[@TonyCelliers]

Thanks for the Awesome build tutorial, I have been looking at Sabers lately and building my own seems like the best way to go, how does the brightness and quality compare to Ultrasaber and Saberforge blades?

[@MadcowGenesis]

Tony Celliers Hi, You'll have to ask on the forum - I have not used those two brands personally. But I can tell you TCSS carries the top stuff - the Cree XPE2 LEDs are the brightest and most versatile for saber building right now. As for quality - try searching facebook for reviews and feedback.

[@mcarlosnewby]

if using an anti vandal switch do the wires of the led and switch led run together on the nbv3 pads or do they go to their own seperste pads thanks so much I love all of these vids and builds

[@bbromfie]

could you do a wiring video for wiring the NB with a recharge port FOC switch and a tri red led?

[@FangornTiger]

Really nice and easy to follow videos, makes it look achievable by anyone with a bit of patience and eye for details. If I wished to make a saber of similar spec as the one in your tutorial except with a yellow-green blade/LED what would be your recommendation? The saber would be for a friend putting together their first SW cosplay outfit. The nano-biscotti looks really efficient and simple to work with, much easier than the US-Obs I've dealt with previously. Thanks for your videos and all the best! :D

[@MadcowGenesis]

Thanks. For a special colour blade like that I would get the PC PrIzm sound card and the Tri-Cree R/G/Rb LED. If you can not afford that setup, buy a selection of 3W (or greater) resistors and experiment blending your own shade of green by resistoring the red, and allowing the green to run with only the .5 Ohm resistor.

[@luckypenny2328]

Thank you so much, I am completely new and I was so lost until I found this video. I am trying to add sound to an ultrasabers stunt saber I have, so two questions if anyone has the answer. Is the standard ultrasabers momentary latching switch okay to use with this build, and will the led I have in the saber be able to be paired with the lithium battery and the resistor recommended in this video?

[@MadcowGenesis]

Nicholas Wagner It would be best if you asked your question on the forum. I have very little experience with Ultrasaber products.

[@Adrian-sw3nv]

Good Day, I really love your videos, amazing tutorials and very informative. I would like to ask, i have read up on the SF forum that the saberforge LED's use 4A, I will be getting a green 12W saber forge LED, I need to find out from you whether I will need to do the PeX hack on the NBv2 board in order to use the full potential of the LED? Is there any risks? and is there any possibility of you making a tutorial video?

[@MadcowGenesis]

+Adrian Horvat I do not think there is a good way to drive a 12 w LED. I expect you will get better results with a Tri-Cree

[@Adrian-sw3nv]

+Rob Petkau Thank you for the reply. Will it be safe to run the 12W for the time being and upgrade to the Tri-Cree? otherwise I will then look into getting the Tri-Cree. Thanks Again.

[@MadcowGenesis]

+Adrian Horvat I really can't comment on the 12w. I've never used them

[@Adrian-sw3nv]

Oh okay cool, thanks for the response anyway :) Keep up the great work with your informative videos!

[@magmasher]

Excellent! Going to be using this video to construct my first MHS saber. What are the chances of you doing a third installment of how to add a FOC and a AV switch led? Oh yeah ... and an recharge port ;) And make it all look nice :P lol

[@qdHazen]

This has convinced me to give this method a go as soon as all the parts are in stock/powder coating options return (fingers crossed). One question, though: If I were to add a FoC system to this set-up, where should it be placed in the electrics loom?

[@MadcowGenesis]

qdHazen I would probably wire the PEX in near the LED

[@geoffist]

awesome stuff. such a shame you're out of the crucial-most parts all the time :-/

[@geoffist]

Just got a few of my parts in today. Thanks!!

[@gammaechofoundationproductions]

That was awesome! Thanks for this! I look forward to seeing more of your videos! You just earned a new subscriber! :)

[@joielollis]

Can you a tutorial on wiring a PICO CRUMBLE DARK???

[@jbucks166]

Hey Rob, Do I need a recharge port with NBV4? I dont want it, I also got a 16mm LED ring switch. Its my first build and I'm not sure what all the wires correspond with. Does the NBV4 have a Flas on Clash feature or is that something additional? I only have the single red cree anyway, I'm curious for the future if I decide to upgrade it. According to some diagrams and previous versions the color code for wires are different. The manual doesnt explain well either. Does not having a recharge port affect anything with the soundboard? Is installing the LED switch the same as the other (how to wire led av that you have?)

[@LTDLimiTeD1995]

I find that double sided tape is excellent for securing the soundboard to the chassis :)

[@TheStarwarskid1997]

would you be willing to post a list of all the parts from the custom saber shop that will need to be purchased to do this installation?

[@MadcowGenesis]

It's all in the video description

[@sky-magnet]

7:28 Don't lie. That's a booger ;)

[@guillacyrano7855]

Thank you so much for those very interesting video, they help a lot to make oneself an idea about how to do it. I was wondering, about that Nano biscotte, I seen on the manual that there is a spot there for an accent led, would that be enough to light up a crystal chamber? Or should I look into something else like Prizm, or petit crouton... Which are more expensive.?

[@MadcowGenesis]

+guillacyrano An accent LED is perfect for a crystal chamber - but there is no dedocated spot for one on the NB, it's still possible to use the main LED signal for crystal LED (manual)

[@guillacyrano7855]

+Rob Petkau thank you for your answer. I've seen a lot of nice saber with crystal chamber made with an NB, so that's why I was asking. I saw as well that the manual explained on the power indicator wiring, that there's a 3.3 v that can power a small accent led, or is it possible to connect it in parallel as well without losing too much brightness on the main saber led?

[@aaronpeterson9288]

good instruction, I don't know mutch about wireing, if I deside to hav a costum saber can I have u build it?

[@MadcowGenesis]

Aaron Peterson Possibly, but I'm pretty expensive. Shop around - I think you'll find that doing it yourself is the way to go.

[@kilikian]

Thanks a lot for this video and all the details. Can someone tell me if this construction fits an ultrasaber empty hilt ? I bought it years ago and would like to get a better light/ sound system (actually only have light). Thanks for your answers !!

[@michaelc4475]

Hey Rob great tutorial! I'm trying this out myself but I'm using the 2w bass speaker and a AV switch pre-wired from TCSS. Where do I solder the switch LED positive and negative on the board or on the harness clip? Also I bought the NB wire harness that has seven different colored wires while yours only has five. Does that make it different?

[@MadcowGenesis]

Bottom of page 13 in the manual explains "Power Indicator Wiring (off during deep sleep)". That is how I would wire the LED in an AV switch. The harness is fine, as long as the correct wires are used.

[@onset8716]

Hello! Great video, has really helped me with my saber! I am currently building a Kylo Ren saber, and was wondering if you knees if the clip you used to connect the whole battery pack and soundboard to the switch and LEDs would work for a tri-cree Led cross guard saber with a recharge port. Also, I am using a rechargeable lithium battery (so it's in a case with wires coming out). How would I go about installing that to the battery holder in this video? If those parts in the video will not with my set up, are there any similar parts I could use? Thank you so much for all the great videos and help!

[@MadcowGenesis]

Hey, Yes - that's all possible. I don;t know where you'd put the recharge port, but the battery will fit in the v6 holder without the battery holder part. You don;t need the clips if you want to wire it directly.

[@thorodinson5157]

Awesome videos, boosted my confidence through the roof. What resistors would you recommend for swapping out the rebel with a b/b/w tri rebel for this build?

[@MadcowGenesis]

Thanks, For a FoC setup, I would use the same resistor... a single .5 ohm / 3watt or greater on both blue dice in parallel, and no resistor on the white for FoC

[@jacksharkey2071]

this was incredably helpful thankyou so much was just wondering a price for all the indavidual components

[@MadcowGenesis]

Under $200 if I recall

[@norockmanfan]

Quick question! I have a stunt saber running a red LED Engin right now. I've always tinkered with electronics and wiring guitars, but am not sure about the led. what resistance should the resistor be if i were going to use the NB and this setup, but keep my existing led? Thanks

[@MadcowGenesis]

You should be able to easily look up your LED specs. and then use this: forums.thecustomsabershop.com/showthread.php?17109-Tutorial-FJK-s-quot-Down-and-Dirty-quot-guide-to-Ohm-s-Law

[@otakughost1814]

Do i need to buy all the electronics and chassis or just buy one of them? Also is it a good idea to make pvc lightsaber and put the electronics inside?

[@otakughost1814]

Ps.sorry i wasted ur time with this comment

[@harveylansley5713]

Rob Petkau , i'm not gonna use a battery/speaker holder like this (gonna use the v5 mhs speakerholder) should i hot-glue the cirquit boards to the inside of the saber, or do you have a batter idea?

[@MadcowGenesis]

harvey lansley I only use hot glue for securing wiring, and even then ONLY in small amounts. I would advise finding a way to secure your board without gluing it to the hilt. Even just two chassis disks.

[@harveylansley5713]

ah, thank's for the reply ^^

[@lowhangingvegetable]

Would it be possible to fit a recharge port on this build or would an extra extension piece need to be added for there to be room?

[@MadcowGenesis]

I would not use a recharge port with a removable battery. It would defeat the purpose. Besides it would not fit easily with this holder style unless you used a switch box higher up in the hilt that has a recharge port spot.

[@mtaberquin]

Thanks for sharing your knowledge, Qui-Gon :)

[@denhamlevi]

I wanted to use this build on another hilt. Diameter for the other hilt is 1.35 in inches. Would you recommend trying to use these parts? The speaker housing in your build is 1.25in so it seems that the electronics should just slide right into the other hilt.

[@MadcowGenesis]

+Jonathan Denham If your hilt is 1.35 inside diameter- then go ahead. You might need to use some means of keeping it from rattling around in there.

[@denhamlevi]

I figured I could add some more insulation of some type to the electronics for that part.

[@jmdstudios1]

Excellent tutorial! I hate to ask since it seems like you get these questions way too often but..say if I wanted to do this but maybe add a brighter led (6watt). What basic things should I consider to know if it would work? I assume it would have to be the battery voltage, voltage drop, and amps. But I'm not sure how I would go about figuring it out. I only ask because some basic circuit principles are a bit vague to me. Any response would be appreciated

[@MadcowGenesis]

+jmdstudios Hey, You can ask on the forums and get help calculating resistors - or use an online resistor calculator. Remember - watts does not equal brightness

[@maxlr812]

if you don't use the tube method, do the components inside rattle at all? or do they sit nice and tight in there and not move around much?

[@MadcowGenesis]

+Maxwell Buffie The V6 holder holds everything in nice. The tube is just extra protection against short circuts

[@maxlr812]

+Rob Petkau and how does it feel? does it feel solid/strong or does it have a kind of hollow feel to it?

[@nagymoussa2118]

Can you make a video of how can i change colors of the lightsaber

[@JacobAeaves]

I am building a saber for me and a buddy. I've got a couple questions, can you use a standard AAA battery to run the saber? And how would you customize the hilt incase you didn't just want a sink tube? Thank you.

[@MadcowGenesis]

+Survival Brothers A triple A battery is only 1.5 volts - not enough. You need 3.7 and these protected lithium Ion cells at TCSS are perfect.

[@JacobAeaves]

+Rob Petkau ok thanks!

[@bobbypuopolo3068]

This is Bobby how does the clip lock in place inside the pommel

[@ModelsbyWil]

Ok, got all the bits, NB arrived yesterday, soldered it all up which was surprisingly easy but now I need help with the swing settings. My board is positioned in pretty much the same place as in this vid, but I'm having a hard time getting the saber to make the swing noises. I've read thru the manual, and I've changed values on the "ls" and "i" fields of the config, I've even searched google but can't seem to find a configuration that works. Did you adjust the settings on this saber at all and if so, what did you use? I almost have it right but its not picking up "softer" swings very well.

[@MadcowGenesis]

+Models by Wil I find the settings work pretty well right out of the box. I'd just keep experimenting - then go back to the stock settings for a reference check.

[@elifenn476]

if I wanted to run an anti vandal switch could I use the two extra wires for it? if I were to do that, would it be better to use the white wire for power and add a separate ground and save the two blue wires for other electronics (flash on clash etc)?

[@MadcowGenesis]

Eli Fenn Sorry, I'm not following. Perhaps you could post your question on the forum so that a bunch of us could answer?

[@elifenn476]

Sounds good. Thanks!

[@shadowbiship4278]

hey so I bought saber, really well made , not well kept, I was editing the files and I drop the saber and the cables connecting too the board came off , I took pics how the wires went before hand(I was looking for the software for the sounds-there was non), after I re-soldered them it doesn't turn on I need help I'm using a mhsv2 nano Biscotte V4. had great colors now it doesn't even make sound (the speaker was working lv4)

[@aarongreve7287]

How would you wire up a anti vandal led switch? Just wanted to know since you mentioned it

[@MadcowGenesis]

+Aaron Greve Same as any switch. The LED is wired seperately to whatever accent LED circut you have or make.

[@jessikapiche6097]

Great videos!

[@Da_Swifta]

So, I have a question, would it be frowned upon to use a non TCSS LED for example a Saberforge LED?

[@MadcowGenesis]

+Da_Swifta Your call

[@Da_Swifta]

Rob Petkau okay, then I shall proceed to decide which LED is best.

[@churchtex1363]

I have a question Can you use a slide switch for any sound card?

[@eagle6919]

Hey Rob where did you get you helping hands that you use for soldering?

[@MadcowGenesis]

Mine were from a hobby store 30 years ago. Much like these: www.amazon.ca/Enkay-4031-Helping-Hands-without/dp/B00MS376F4/ref=sr_1_3?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1420832004&sr=1-3&keywords=amazon+tools+helping+hands

[@shempearce7085]

What is the difference between the different coloured wires? Is it thickness or just for identification purposes?

[@MadcowGenesis]

identification

[@shempearce7085]

Rob Petkau cool, thanks.

[@crossy28]

Great guide, this is exactly how i plan to run my next saber, only thing i plan to do different is the hilt design obviously and to run a red l.e.d, Will i be able to use a red Luxeon Rebel star without any negatives? I can do electronic stuff but its still black magic to me :D

[@MadcowGenesis]

Thanks. Short answer - yes. Long answer - Cree gives you a brighter red. Try the new Coppernova LEDs at TCSS

[@crossy28]

Rob Petkau cool, will do, am i right in assuming they use the same lens as the rebel star?

[@MadcowGenesis]

crossy28 Correct

[@SpiderPopo2001]

I made it! But I accidentally messed up the speaker. Since you're out of stock were I can buy it again?

[@skuudigital9346]

Can you use Smooth Swing with the Nano? Not sure if I’m asking the right question here.. new to the hobby.

[@b.h9186]

the nano biscotte come ready to use right out of the box ?

[@ApocalypZero]

I have not clue what i did, but one day after i plugged my sd card into my nbv4 the led turns on as soon as the battery makes contact, no sound no function at all outside the led

[@johnalmeida7992]

so i love ur video and in going to try and make one myself but how did u make the blade and attach it to the hilt

[@MadcowGenesis]

+John Almeida You can buy blades or blades supplies from TCSS

[@johnalmeida7992]

+Rob Petkau kk wat size was the blade for this video cause im goin attempt to make it

[@MadcowGenesis]

+John Almeida one inch - thin wall

[@JerryDechant]

Is it cheaper to build it yourself than to buy one built like from Ultimate Sabers? How much does all that cost (including the blade part?) With the blade, do you build that too, i.e. add a mirror to the end on the inside, or do they come complete and ready to insert?

[@MadcowGenesis]

+Jerome Dechant For a quality saber, it's less expensive to build your own. You can get blade parts, or complete blades.

[@ontheedge123]

Mr. Petaku. Does a Cree Tri-XP-E2 fit in the same heat sink chassis in the video? I apologize if this has already been asked.

[@MadcowGenesis]

Yes, all the star base LEDs fit the TCSS heatsink

[@ontheedge123]

Rob Petkau thanks. You're a great instructor for us newbie sabersmiths

[@aarongreve7287]

If you use all the parts except the v6 holder would it still work with another speaker mount

[@MadcowGenesis]

+Aaron Greve Sure. You would just have to find a way to secure the battery holder and sound card

[@aarongreve7287]

+Rob Petkau thanks

[@joielollis]

I just ordered a pico crumble dark today. Does it come with wiring instructions?

[@tokyosan1]

I'm new to lightsabers, I was thinking about getting a Graflex kit; just wondering if the MHS speaker mount fits the graflex kit hilt; thanks!

[@MadcowGenesis]

+Tony Lugosi Yes it fits - not tight

[@cpu64]

I built a proton saber and I have a nano card for all the lights, but I need sound. my setup includes I toggle for start up/shut down, and a "fire button" switch. would this be a possible solution for what I need?

[@MadcowGenesis]

+cpu64 If you have a Noano Biscottee - all you need is a speaker

[@evanf7334]

After I build the saber what kind of blade do I get for this build??

[@Itz_Jensen]

what is the average O.D. for the saber hilts? I'm thinking of adding a design over it...like using pvc or sink tube or something like that

[@MadcowGenesis]

Randy Jensen The MHS DF parts are just a hair under 1.5 " OD. I think it's 1.450" actually. The sleeve material fits perfectly

[@Itz_Jensen]

Ok cool. Getting ideas to make a good saber. For my personal saber I want to have the foc and saber lock and all of that. For the saber lock I'm trying to figure our how to do that so when I hold the button it gives a locking sound.

[@MadcowGenesis]

Randy Jensen You'll need the Petite Crouton for that

[@tyty._.317]

Is there a way I could just buy all of those electronics put together already?

[@colethomson2601]

Is it possible to wire a recharge port in if you have a rechargeable battery in the battery holder?

[@MadcowGenesis]

Yes. But I would not use a removable battery intending for it to stay in there. I would skip the battery holder and use a single cell battery pack

[@colethomson2601]

+Rob Petkau thanks

[@XakBlack]

Do you have any videos of wiring an accent LED?

[@thedutchviking747]

hey customsabershop can you instal this electronica also on a Graflex 2.0 or 2.5. Yes or no! And if you can, how you insalled?

[@thebeybladearmory]

Whats the OD of the cylinder battery pack?

[@theachillean2502]

do i need a solder iron if my wires have connectors attach to them?

[@TheCustomSaberShop]

It may be possible to get the whole rig with connectors. But If you want to build a saber I HIGHLY recommend learning to solder.

[@Laochri]

Hey Rob, Great job on these TCSS tutorials. That fluorescent lamp tube would have saved me $100. I shorted out my sound card Luckily it was just a US 2.5 (piece of crap). Now on to a more advanced question; I want to use a certain sound bite from ROTJ for the boot sound. How would I go about that?

[@ErvPlecter]

proper light above your bench is indeed a must have Laochri. I've just upgraded to a LED bulb, 3000 kelvin for now until I finally find the proper color temp for my bench (I like day light, probably around 4500k). Regarding your question, all the Plecter Labs sound boards have changeable sounds on the SD card, including the boot sound. Just replace it with any sound snipet and you're rollin' !

[@Laochri]

Hey ***** I think you misread my comment. The florescent lamp tube I was talking about was the plastic tube Rob slid the battery box/speaker holder into. One on the solder pads came loose and arched and shorted the Crapy Ultrasound. I know about changing sound banks. I was asking how to get the sound bite from the film. Then edit and save as boot.wav.

[@MadcowGenesis]

Hey, There are instructions in the Plecter CF manual for making a sound files that works. You can also ask around on the forums.

[@drewlflip]

Do you guys do builds and send a finished saber at all?

[@MadcowGenesis]

+Drew DeLand Not from TCSS, but you can certainly find many ethical saber builders out there. Do your homework before you buy!

[@bobbypuopolo2997]

Where did you buy the battery holder I don't buy custom saber shop

[@MadcowGenesis]

Bobby Puopolo The Custom Saber Shop

[@Thetazord]

You are freaking awesome.

[@An_Actual_Ditto]

Would a Raspberry Pi Zero possibly work as a replacement for the Nano Biscotte due to budget?

[@MadcowGenesis]

I really do not know. The NB is pretty inexpensive.

[@bluefishandferret133]

Can I order a light from saber forge or vaders vault that will still work with this saber or if it works is it more expensive

[@shempearce7085]

I had to attach the wires straight to the nano biscotti (V3) because I couldn't get a hold of the wiring harness, so my (first) build is a little different to this one. But when I completed the wiring (as per the manual's diagram) and dropped the SD card then the battery into place, nothing happened and I've been over the wiring and it all seems ok, aside from the shoddy soldering job I did. Anyone got any ideas? I've posted in tcss forum but I thought I'd ask here too since this is the tutorial I mainly followed. Anyone got any ideas why or what to do?

[@MadcowGenesis]

I'll take a look on the forum.

[@tonylopez9682]

I need some help. I have: Graflex 2.0 Nano Biscotte v3 soundboard Tri Cree Xpe2 LEDs (Blue,Blue,White) and 7/8 heatsink Panasonic Li-Ion 18650 3.7V 3400mAh PCB Protected Rechargeable Battery What resistors do I need and how many? Here are the specs of the LEDs: Illumination Color: Blue Wavelength: 485 nm Luminous Intensity: - Luminous Flux/Radiant Flux: 45.7 lm If - Forward Current: 350 mA Vf - Forward Voltage: 3.1 V Mounting Style: SMD/SMT Power Rating: 3 W Illumination Color: Cool White Color Temperature: 10500 K Luminous Flux/Radiant Flux: 360 lm Color Rendering Index - CRI: 65 Luminous Intensity: - Viewing Angle: 125 deg If - Forward Current: 1050 mA Vf - Forward Voltage: 3..5 V Thank you in advance!

[@MadcowGenesis]

+Tony Lopez led.linear1.org/1led.wiz

[@tonylopez9682]

+Rob Petkau so according to that guide I need one 1.8 Ohm 1/2W for each Blue LED. Can I twist the 2 positives together and use one larger resistor? If so whats size would that be? Also do I need a resistor for the white? FYI I am doing FOC w/ the white.

[@MadcowGenesis]

+Tony Lopez I do not think your calculation is correct. Each dice on the tri-cree will draw 1000mA

[@tonylopez9682]

+Rob Petkau i used the calculator you provided. Unless the specs for the LED are wrong. It says the Tri Cree Xpe2 forward voltage for the each blue is 3.1V at 350mA. My battery is 3.7V 3400mAh. Am I wrong? I appreciate your help. Your videos are priceless.

[@MadcowGenesis]

+Tony Lopez Yup - that's the issue. Most of us aim for the max amperage, With the XPE2 that is 1000 mA (1 amp)

[@ModelsbyWil]

I'm being lazy, instead of reading all the comments to find my answer I'm asking direct, can this set up incorporate a recharge port? I'm using an AV switch with LED but other that am using this exact setup, I do however want to try and have a recharge port more to take advantage of the kill plug. Thoughts?

[@MadcowGenesis]

+Models by Wil You would need a long hilt to fir a recharge port with this holder

[@ModelsbyWil]

+Rob Petkau The hilt I is style 5, the 7" fluted one and also a MHS Gear extension. Theres quite a bit of room inside .... enough you think??

[@MadcowGenesis]

+Models by Wil Only ine way to know for sure - give it a try

[@ModelsbyWil]

+Rob Petkau True that! A question on the wiring though, I would need to run the wires from the battery to the recharge port and from the port to the NB right? I have a basic understanding of circuits but thats the way to go?

[@MadcowGenesis]

+Models by Wil Yup. There's a vid here for wiring a recharge port too

[@miguelaulet9425]

Hey Rob, what's the length of the battery/speaker mount?

[@ricardoavila1800]

hi i have a question i was making anakin master replicas conversion but when i tur on the led the led doesnt turn on only the sensor but when i put the negative wires with the positive the led turn on but like flashes whats can i do? :(

[@MadcowGenesis]

+Ricardo Avila It would be best to post on the forum with pictures and a video for us to help you

[@corbygray528]

Hey! Love watching these vids. You do great work. I know this video is a bit older but I'm looking into building a saber. I noticed TCSS now sells a completed rebel LED set that appears to be pre-wired and mounted to the heat sink with a (I believe it's called JST?) connector. Would I be able to just add that to my cart and just snip off the jst connector for this build? Or would you recommend buying the separate pieces so I can give myself more wire to work with? I also see a lot of people on all the forums talking about buck pucks as though they are almost mandatory in any build, but I'm having trouble actually understanding them and see that you haven't used or mentioned them in these basic builds. Is it just not necessary for something this (relatively) simple? I appreciate any response, and thanks again for your efforts in educating those of us who are more visual learners and interested in saber building!

[@MadcowGenesis]

Thanks for the kind feedback. Yes - you can do it either way with the LED and wires. I might use a buckpuck if there was no sound card. But with the battery voltage being so close the the LED Vf it's really not worth it IMHO

[@corbygray528]

Rob Petkau Awesome, thanks for the response!

[@corbygray528]

Rob Petkau One more question, sorry about that but I just thought of it. One appealing thing about this design you outlined was being able to swap the main internals between sabers and take it over to a different one. Is there a way to set this up to work with either a guarded switch or antivandal switch? Or do you need to commit to one switch type or the other when wiring the section past the connector?

[@MadcowGenesis]

Any switch is fine as long as it's momentary.

[@marcelinhostarwars]

Hi guys! Were can I buy this black chassis? Thanks . Rgds from Brazil!

[@Dtrolcoljs]

Wait, what part of the saber is detecting movement? Did I miss part of the video?

[@MadcowGenesis]

That's all done by the Plecter Labs sound card. In this case it's the Nano Biscotte.

[@Dtrolcoljs]

Ah so it's all on board? Awesome

[@MadcowGenesis]

MystByte Videos Correct!

[@jamesodowd5928]

Do you put any programming on the SD card for nanobiscotte

[@ozonoboy]

Hi Rob, they work like power xtender 2.0 and the nano sound-biscotte module v2?

[@MadcowGenesis]

Not sure what you are asking. You need both for FoC.

[@ozonoboy]

Works same power xtender 2.0 and nano biscotte sound module v2 on the sound in a lightsaber?

[@MadcowGenesis]

Juanma Barba No - the power xtender is not a sound board.

[@ozonoboy]

Ok, Thank you Rob!! May the force be with you!!

[@takeatime3699]

How to build the cross guard lightsaber. I have a empty hilt from disney park ren. I want to use a crystal shard 3.0 but how can i install that in to my hilt?

[@takeatime3699]

Because it have a side blade but tutorial is not show me how to build the crossguard. T.T

[@LunchBXcrue]

So if I order a hilt thats empty how do I know what sort of interal chassis size to use?

[@joevromero]

You say, blue speaker wire. What gauge is that or where do I get it?

[@anthonyrsfk9116]

can you show me how to make a blade?

[@MadcowGenesis]

Noble 7 I will put that idea down on the list

[@bluetooth4916]

Rob Petkau plz could you do that !!

[@yoshibfc]

hi, I'm new to this but will a crystal focus V8 fit in SF Acolyte hilt ?

[@MadcowGenesis]

I don't know. I would advise you to join the forums and ask there.