How To 3D Print Gears Like a Boss

[@thehardwareguy]

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[@lio1234234]

Also, if you plan on driving offroad, I would definitely recommend swapping the herringbone gears for some doublehelix gears. Any dirt or substance that gets into the gears gets dragged into the centre and quickly binds up the gears, the double helix solves this because there is a gap for the dirt/grime to be pushed into. :)

[@lio1234234]

Also, yes there is a difference between herringbone and double helix. And that is what I listed in the above comment. A herringbone is simply a specific type of double helix gear :)

[@thehardwareguy]

Excellent point. Maybe an idea for Raptor 3 ;)

[@DrewTeter]

Question. If dirt and grime is push up one direction on a helical gear, would going in reverse push the grime in the other direction? And, if so, could you orient a herringbone gear to push grime out of the center when the car drives forward? (Since it will be going forward 90% of the time)

[@rcaviator8408]

Same with those outrunner motors. They dont really like dirt. Some sheilds would be a good idea.

[@amorag59]

@@lio1234234 He mentions this at 3:39..

[@imonseii]

I would recommend going 95% in stead of 100. reason being that if you have a tiny bit of overextrusion in your printer, this will compensate, and avoid outer layer blobbing, as this will make the gear teeth nearly unusable, or at least time consuming to clean up. Another reason is that when force is applied to the structure there is nowhere for the force to distribute if it's all solid, but with tiny gaps the material has a tiny space to deform slightly, mitigating some of the force running through it.

[@bloogaming8827]

Good idea! Might also be worth printing the outer perimeters first

[@MOOBBreezy]

If you have over extrusion, try adjusting your e-steps

[@butre.]

this hasn't been an issue in a long time

[@jr764]

You’re right at the first part, but the part about forces distributing is complete nonsense. A 100% solid part will always take more load than something that is not 100% solid

[@guillaumelebreton3780]

@@jr764 Well, not always. For example, for parts that have an angle that is less than 90° have ofter an circle cut off where the angle is, because if not forces will rip the material where the acute angle is. When you cut off a circle in place of this angle, you will make a better repartition of forces and hence avoid ripping. So by removing some of material you can actually make it stronger.

[@TheKrzyh]

Excellent delivery: - calm, but not boring - informative, but not overwhelmingly Thank you for the video! Really enjoyed it.

[@steveneltringham1478]

Love your content - no egocentric b.s. Just the interesing stuff. Coming up for reirement I bought a 3D printer and Wow! You don't even have to leave the house to go on a big adventure. Been subbed for a while and come to you first when I want facts. Please keep it up, you're a terrific teacher.

[@thehardwareguy]

Thank you for the kind words Steven, much appreciated👊🏻 I agree, it is incredible what we can do from the comfort of our homes these days!

[@Shubham-po2tp]

Please tell me is 1:1 greas tevhinel

[@TomBertalan]

I really like this focused-collection-of-findings format. Not so much a "tutorial" that focuses on one project (just one point in a design space), but an attempt to report on how to generalize a particular technique. It would be nice if other maker-focused youtubers adopted such a format, so we could have a library of such hard-won info, organized not by integrated project but by technique.

[@BrownMInc]

I often ask the question why hardware/mechanical design can't get the same kind of love / support that electronics and software does. I generally thought maybe it's too specific in nature but you're right this video communicated generally

[@Ibian666]

I learned that there are different types of gears and why some of them are stronger than others. Good to include this sort of thing.

[@666skyshadow]

*Engineer here* You're mods for strength and print clarity are next level. If you are not already a CAD drafter, you should consider it. Some companies do not require a FE to draft.

[@snorttroll4379]

What search terms does one use to find the jobs?

[@666skyshadow]

@@snorttroll4379 CAD drafting

[@falconrising5138]

@@snorttroll4379 Designer or Drafter, but more often search for the CAD software name (Solidworks, Creo, Fusion360, etc) for the best results. (I used to be one).

[@Curious_Skeptic]

THis is so cool! Just got a printer. VERY late to the game, but I avoided years of frustration felt by all the brave who got in early. Now, it's design, drop, click, print. From what I've printed already, I have to say, PLA filament printing has jumped by leaps and bounds. Even the test prints, and first few train model assets are impressive. I printed a hinge in PLA and WOW! This is nothing like what I recall. The quality of adhesion between layers is impressive. These are very strong parts even in PLA. Loving it. Subscribed and looking forward to watching more of your videos. Love to print my own 3d printed rc cars.

[@rivergranniss3740]

Build an enclosure for your printer, upgrade hot end as needed, put in a direct drive, and print in PC (Polycarbonate). When tuned right the results are genuinely incredible. Extremely strong.

[@pogi1803]

Can this be done on and Ender 3 pro? Very brand new to the 3d printing world.

[@TheHotwhells]

@@pogi1803 of coruse it can be done on any printer but it needs its personalised modifications

[@pogi1803]

Awesome!! Thanks!!

[@rivergranniss3740]

@@pogi1803 my printer is an ender 3 pro

[@rivergranniss3740]

@@pogi1803 upgrades will take time and money however. To print PC you'd need an all metal hot end like the micro swiss, or if you want a direct drive extruder as well get a hemera. You'll need to make some changes to your firmware to accommodate the new hot end. Get an enclosure for the ender 3 on amazon. I'd say that's the minimum requirements

[@williambyrnes4198]

I like the fact that you are using roller bearings for your gears that are in direct contact with the motor. There is no need to use ball bearings because the forces acting on the gears in radial not axial. Plus like you said you will get less wear.

[@Der6FingerJo]

Great Video! I`ve also landed on Polymaker PC Max after experimenting with Taulman Alloy 910 before, but i never put as much care into it as you. But i can vouch for their durability - i made a inner gear ring design that transferred the power of 3,5kW motors on an electric mountainboard and the gears never failed!

[@JPLashOriginals]

Very informative, I learned more about 3D printed gears in ten minutes here than in my entire mechanical design program at school.

[@dzee9481]

One thing I like is how you go from the drawing board to design the part and going to the manufacturing, where you describe how you went through the analysis of on printing the part and provide details around each of the components needed to be reviewed and looked at having the proper parameters to print the parts that would be under a large amount of stress. Typical most people would just print the parts and slap it on the RC vehicle and do not understand why the plastic part broke. I like to see how you would design a part and go through the process of printing that part on a 3D printer and what methods you use to make sense to print the part so that it would print as you would expect it to be.

[@shahederharoutunian2789]

Wonderful video! Might I suggest a solution your axel strength issue? Add fillet between your axel and the gear face if you have enough room, even a small 2-3mm fillet can exponentially reduce the stress riser created by that shoulder. Excellent work!

[@paulcrabb7167]

Really impressed by the engineering detail packed into this video - learned a lot.

[@Thee_Sinner]

During the 2:33-4:03 explanation, the first set that you talk about are whats used in race cars. Automotive folks like myself know these as "straight-cut" gears. Theyrs not used in road cars because of the noise they produce, but they are the best at transferring power from the engine to the wheels.. The second set, helical, are used in most road cars because the smoother meshing is significantly quieter, but at the cost of power transfer. Because the gears are cut diagonally, a measurable amount of power is lost to friction as the gears try to push themselves apart.

[@thehardwareguy]

Yes, I did mention they are most efficient, but at a cost. The cost is durability and noise! Race cars only need to make it to the end of a race, whereas consumer cars need to last 20+ years. There is no right or wrong gear to use, just depends on the specific application

[@robmurg]

Great video, thank you. I seem to recall that the Citroen badge is based on the herringbone gear which they pioneered the use of in production cars.

[@GregorShapiro]

That is true!

[@marsgizmo]

wonderful project 👏😎

[@gregdabrat]

oh hey :)

[@fernandoi8958]

5:12 you could make an internal structure within the axis, with the shell tool or something similar, such that the axis is now built with walls instead of plain infill and you can increase the amount of walls, it would make the structure stronger

[@Paul-rs4gd]

Thanks very much for such an informative video. I'd love to see a video like this about belt drives and 3d printed sprockets too.

[@thehardwareguy]

You're welcome Paul, thank you for watching!

[@errorgd]

was having problems with axles as well, but my solution was using nylon. less hassle than glueing them together ;)

[@NullHyp]

Having experimented with 3D printed gears playing with the OpenRC F1 car (by D. Norée), I have to say, Herringbones are definitely way to go for 3D printing. They’re substantially quieter too.

[@NullHyp]

Love your content by the way! Subscribed ✅

[@javmar86]

Great video man! keep them churning!

[@JL-rx6bz]

Thank you so much for the video on how to 3d print gears! Very straight to the point and but very detailed.

[@ArChA40]

I am not even close to expirianced in printing gears, but in my little experience I found it is a good idea to use rafts. This way you do not risk warps at the edges.

[@Sean_735]

You could chamfer the bottom edge very slightly in Fusion so the elephant's foot effect just pushes it out closer to being straight.

[@rogero9633]

I greatly appreciate your taking the time to experiment and examine the possibilities of printing gears on a 3D printer. I have been thinking about the use of 3D printed gears in the future. My hesitency is due to the problems one gets into when producing them by any other method and comparing those issues with using various materials and 3D printing of gears. 3D printing is a new and experimental area of fabrication and so much simpler. Since it is possible to design any gear one can think of on a CAD program and rely on a 3D printer that is sophisticated and accurate enough to produce that design - well this is fantastic as I can see it. And that is the key to this - the CAD program and accurate 3D printer technologies. I didn't know if they had become available yet. I"m glad to see people like you are able to prove the subject. I will subscribe and follow along to see what develops in your shop. Thanks. PS. One shortcoming that I is a problem for me is that I'm not good at creatively designing a roubst gear shape using the CAD programs. I have tinkered about with some of them but I have not become proficient with any versions yet. I was hoping that by waiting for some period that some design libraries would become available to satisfy my experimentation curiosity. Good luck to you for experimentations that produce the quality that satisfies both of our needs. Bye for now.

[@yinyuetrifecta]

This is seriously so helpful. Thank you!!

[@MiroslavKastak]

After I builded 2 cars form 3Dsets I thinking about to design my own RC car and because I want to make some type of crawler, this video is realy helpful for me. Thanks a lot ! 😊

[@GBCobber]

Nice build. Good advice. Just a note Herringbone gears are actually quite a bit stronger than helical, because the teeth have that corner in the middle.

[@michaelwhisman2479]

Solid video, thank you for the awesome information. You gave me some more ideas for the mini extruder I am trying to build. Thank you

[@evanlane1690]

Love the reinforcing technique!

[@Hfhsk]

I have no idea how I got here or what’s going on, but I am LEARNING and ENTRANCED.

[@PanosMesi]

I 3d printed a speedometer gear with ASA for my Honda transalp 650 two weeks ago and until now it works flawlessly. Let's hope it lasts. Let's see. Nice video 👍

[@alishanmao]

Thank you for this video. I learned a thing or two :D today.

[@paulmaydaynight9925]

keeping a spare nut or to on the heated bed and filling that when you purge can be fun & produce useful quick generic bits after smoothing too, dip your old stranded wire in dissolved scrap plastic and stick that in your bolts as a core infill etc, etc..

[@rusticagenerica]

Really happy I discovered your channel ! Fantastic advice !!

[@piscanc1]

Cool project! Regarding improvements, look into "beaking PETG". Basically printing 100% infill and baking it in an oven (inside of salt powder), to get solid plastic part.

[@GregorShapiro]

Don't the parts warp some despite the salt packing?

[@snorttroll4379]

So lile table salt and heat to mwlting point?

[@Koomoa]

This was an amazing video, keep them coming !

[@Joshuah2012]

That red audio interface in the back on the desk was a steal back in the day, probably still is. My friend uses one when he makes his music, afaik. He got it was back when it came out.

[@markusgutendorff2684]

I'm a racepilot in 1/8 gte. What i want to ask you is how sensitive the fishbone gear is to grit particles coming from the track. 1/8 gte is raced on tarmac and is similar to a gocarrack but much shorter. We run open gears to cool down the diffs. all gears are made of highgrade steel and standard straight module 1 teeth. The ony gear we could 3d print would be the main spur gear with is driven by the motor pinion gear which is always a module 1 pinion aand extremely hard steel. PLastic gears are often used for the main pinion gear and i would say the are always made from reinforced nylon. cf or glasfibre and 8mm wide to take att grit particle or 2. The output is 2700w or so from the motor. the weight is 3800g minimum for the car. top speed is 110 kph.the issue is than the track is surrunded by grass lawn so when leaving the track (unintentionally) we get grit on the track that might upset the gears if made in plastic. 1/8gte is of couse 4wd with a cneter diff or a spurgear connected to rear and front diffs. the diffs are oilfilled to get the correct response. and the diffs get hot. Being an egnineer aswell as the goto guy for 3d printing on a school in sweden. i See potential för 3d printed gear both for racing and for students. I have been contemplating 2 or 4 motors instead of on a a projekt. just to get rid of a motor in the center 90 degrees off. This create inertia twisting the car. when 2 motors front and rear would make a better sollution. But i would us inrunners beacuse of reduced inerta and better power to weigt ratio. The escs are 180a to 220 amps a still everything gets hot. I'm guessing high temp material is the only way for a GTe car. For offroading i see an even bigger issue for the typ of car you have built. I race 1/8 buggies too... and there we always ha built in gears. the same motors are used 4068- to 4074 sensored motors. But gte takes alot more power to be competive with turbo. Heat is the worst danger to motors and esc

[@kevinm3751]

Great tips, I found using nylon filament is better for strength and its much more forgiving and does not chip nearly as much as other filament I tried.

[@ЛюдмиллаДунина]

What is the purpose of the hair spray at 07:12? Is it to improve adhesion between the printed object and the printer's build plate?

[@thehardwareguy]

yes!

[@erick5691]

Nice build - One thing i'd recommend is using nylon instead of PC for the gears. PC is great when it comes to impact resistance, however nylon is a lot more resistant to abrasion which is essential for parts that are constantly rubbing up against each other. Furthermore, nylon has almost a sort of natural "lubricant" property to it, which should help your gears turn more freely reducing wear. In terms of trying to print out the axle, have you tried any carbon fiber infused filaments? They could possibly work, as it adds a substantial amount of strength and rigidity to the part. Personally, i'd recommend either CF-nylon or CF-ASA for your particular application. I believe Polymaker recently just came out with their own carbon fiber reinforced nylon filament, so you should get them to send you some and try it out :)

[@petersvancarek]

I too think that nylon (PA) is superior... no wonder it is often used for small extruded gears.

[@sethreign8103]

I like how at 5:32 you show the area of the piece that was printed while talking about the area of the same piece that was glued as if they were the same lol

[@thehardwareguy]

They are the same, you can see the line where I glued them together

[@dorinissenbaum4195]

Hi, great video! Really liked the design and the comment about splitting the shafts! From your experience - what module of the gears worked best for your printer - how small can you get? Any suggestions for the glues used on the splitted shafts?

[@joecnc3341]

Liked-Subscribed-Notified. Very informative. Great video style. Keep up the great work!

[@SamWatershipDownPeckinpaw]

Great points on filament alignment. I work in the Gear industry and your explanation of the Gear types was spot on. I am new to 3D printing and this answered some questions I had. Have you ever done a Bevel Gear?

[@jeffmcmahon615]

Well done. Thanks mate. I appreciate the gear info.

[@claudioquevedo5257]

You deserve more subscribers

[@xboa721]

awesome info. brought me up to speed so fast. thanks. great tip on the fusion add on. Cheers.

[@vasiliyklx450r]

Great tips I learned today! Thank you, chief!

[@Brocknoviatch]

I spent a lot of time 3D printing the truggy off of thingiverse in ABS+ and the differential gears and drive train couldn’t handle the loads. I considered using polymaker pc max but it was far cheaper to use metal drivetrain using common parts. I use a ABS+ herringbone gear connected to a metal diff, and ABS+ herringbone gear that attaches to the motor and they work great! I have also enclosed those gears so they don’t get dirt in them as well! I love the tips for the shaft and gear and also the m3 bolt!

[@SianaGearz]

What is "ABS+" really? If it's actually ABS, then it's usually plain not suitable for gears and such mechanisms because it flakes off, it doesn't have much abrasion resistance whatsoever. Maybe it's modified with reduced butadiene amount, it might be good, as butadiene is introduced as a flake onto which graft polymerisation of styrene and nitrile occurs, which are introduced as gas, and this butadiene is on the one hand flexible, on the other forms spots at which the material can separate. If it's a modified PLA with plastifier additives, which i think one manufacturer had such misleading naming, then that's stronger, but has another issue, because the temperature resistance isn't great, and friction generates high local temperatures, and shear strength isn't even as good as regular PLA. So i wonder what brand you used, i don't think they're likely to be particularly similar to one another.

[@Brocknoviatch]

eSun ABS+ . I have run a full battery on it and there is some wear on the gears. I need to run it some more to give a proper review of it. I would love to know how eSun have modified it.

[@dabunnisher29]

This was very helpful. Subscribed and thumbs up.

[@Mindless_One]

Excellent video-, i found my Wood working background helped a lot in working out the best origination for printing parts that are under a heavy load, Simply because the the Grain of the wood is like the layer lines in printing-. Thanks for the Recommendation on Polymaker Filaments-.

[@master-gbig1140]

Very interesting; I love what you did with the smaller gears by driving a screw through the center to reinforce them "along-the-printed-layers". However; since you have such a keen insight into the structural integrity of printed parts I was wondering why didn't you try the same thing with the dog-bones as you did with the smaller gears? Never the less; you are, definitely; someone to look forward to watching on youtube. Vantastic workmen ship and thank you for your brilliant insight on gears.

[@chrisf8584]

I know your Q was from years ago but I think he didn't need the support on the larger gears because they rotated at a much lower RPM so reinforcement wasn't needed.

[@Suzeno00]

Very nice, I like your way of thinking! I will take it into account in my projects. Thank you 😉

[@carlosjosejimenezbermudez9255]

Nylon works beautifully with gears too. Taulman 910 has given me amazing results.

[@RideAfterMidnight]

Spur gears are used in motorsports which is easily a high load and high speed application.

[@pierodemarin6160]

Eg. Rallye, all type of motorbike and maybe F1

[@MikkoRantalainen]

I agree. Spur gears are just noisy and cause vibrations but they are indeed effective for power transmission. However, for printed plastic parts the vibrations alone may be able to break the part which makes double helical gear better for this application.

[@gmodesike]

Thank you so much for sharing your hard work. You are appreciated, my man.

[@thehardwareguy]

I appreciate that! Thank you for the kind comment.

[@michaelcerkez3895]

Outstanding. Good luck with the design/prototype. 73

[@chrisgill5692]

Great content!! We really need 4th axis filament winding type printers for parts like this. Could then print the axles and torsion tubes around a removable mandrel using vcarve or similar.

[@Digimatic007]

Excellent advice, very well presented and scaffolded. Thank you!

[@shanielluciano9649]

Hey man, wsp, i have a more or less 1/6 1/8 "car" (only the exterior) and i want to learn more about this things cause im gonna make my own RC car for high performance, Awd and 100-120Kmh but i need to learn more u can recommend me things? like, suspenssion, engines (electric), etc or some channels that have content about that

[@thehardwareguy]

I found myself in your position around a year ago. When I started the Raptor project I knew very little about mechanical design. Personally, I find that the best way to learn is to just try and build something. If you look back at my older videos you'll see that Raptor 2 evolved from many mistakes. I failed over and over again until I ended up with something that actually worked! I'm definitely no chassis expert, but I learned by doing and produced what I think is a pretty good result. I'm a big advocate of this mentality. Hope this helps man!

[@colinfielder6695]

Thanks for this. Great job and very informative

[@christopherosborn7081]

Is there a way in FreeCAD to tamper the two outside surfaces of the tooth on a sprocket so fits into the chain better while it rotates?

[@irkedoff]

I would suggest two rows of ball bearings instead of roller bearings. Two rows will add rigidity and reduce the operating temperature from the increased friction of the roller bearings. This is only a suggestion. Great video.

[@paigashaona2331]

I'd suggest trying PC+PBT for the gears. It's available from Push Plastic, and probably other places. It's got the good strength from PC, but also has added self-lubrication features, and is a bit more ductile which might help on shock. I've had luck printing it on a PCB-heater bed, with an all-metal E3D V6, with just a trash back over my printer to keep the heat in. xD

[@chrisnurse6430]

Great video with perfect level of detail

[@jazroT]

Awesome presentation!

[@rusticagenerica]

May God bless you and your gears.

[@civicrocker]

Don’t forget that straight spur gears are also very loud!

[@py8551]

Very nice video I have learned a lot thank you, I am new for 3D printing, I have a same 3D printer I am trying to design a small gear for my old SONY walkman it requires a very strong gear to handling a large torque from the motor, could you please provide the correct settings for the ENDER-3 printer? I am using PLA.

[@Sasha315]

I am pretty sure that straight cut gears are stronger than helical ones. For example, race car transmissions use straight cut gears. And forces there are much higher. Disadvantage of straight gears is that they are much louder, that is why street cars use helical gears. But sometimes even street car transmissions have straight cut rear gear - which is also cheaper and loudness doesn't matter.

[@Nisse977]

I agree on this. Was thinking exactly the same when watching this video. Straight cut gears are stronger because they put all the force into the next gear, the helical ones does put some of the force in the axial direction. But yes helical are smoother, less noise. These fishbone helical gears does not put any axial loads, only internal in the gearwheel iself, not on any bearings and so on :) Maybee straightcut gears are weaker then helical when they are 3Dprinted in plastic material?

[@MeBarnson]

Just wondering regarding spur gears. Aren't they uses in racing gearboxes? So highspeed, high loads?

[@Papinak2]

Weakest part of automotive gearboxes are bearings. By using spur gears, axial loads are reduced, which reduces load on bearings. However, I'm not sure about less strength of spur gears either - I think I've seen them on locomotive axle, which is probably one of most demanding applications.

[@thehardwareguy]

Yes they are used in racing because of their high efficiency. In racing cost is rarely an issue, so those gearboxes will be replaced every couple of races due to wear/damage. There's always a trade off. Spur gears are also very noisy, which again isn't an issue on the racetrack.

[@Papinak2]

@@thehardwareguy And what about railway vehicles?

[@jwonderfulsuccess]

Very informative. How do I back drive a worm gear?

[@markjohnson4874]

I don’t know if you know this but Stefan over at cnc kitchen did a test which proved that you want more walls rather than infill because the majority of a part’s strength comes from its outer walls ex: metal tube, pvc pipe

[@CleberRobertoMovio]

Great video Thanks! I got to know more about the great material with this video, it's possible to share your RC car project?

[@annestyk]

great video bud! i'm super jealous, that rc car looks like a beast. =D

[@thomassutrina8296]

spur gears are very noisy unless at ridiculous tight tolerances. (have seen them used in a torpedo which requires both quietness and huge power in a small light space. The advantage is no thrust which makes the structural design much worse.) Load on a spur gear is a short cantilever that is loaded and unloaded not very gradually. Forces transferred between teeth are perpendicular to the face. so a helix gear creates a thrust force, apply trigonometry, and when applied to the bending stress on each gear tooth is about the same as a spur gear sees. The load is not put on as abruptly and thus lower noise. To machine of herringbone gears are only done with a shaper with a cam to rotate the blank as the cutting face moves through the part. High end gears are usually finished by grinding. not possible for the herringbone gears shown. Have to sandwich to opposite angled helix gears to form a herringbone gear. Involute gear by design do not slide against each other. Never actually is 100% achieved but close. The 95% plus transfer of power of a gear set is the result. These gears are all involute and adding an angle to make a helix doesn't change this. Another indication of very low friction is that they can be back driven. However; if the axis of the set are not parallel but at some angle then there can be some sliding. The amount can be low and thus can be back driven.

[@natcole2629]

great video. Going to need to watch your others on modelling gears in Fusion 360. Newbie for this sort of thing.

[@baxrok2.]

Smart move to reinforce the pinion with the M3.

[@chettiarsirusraj9501]

I am not surprised by the fact that your small spur gears worked better after you fitted them with steel screws in them because the big big double helical gears had enough material surface area to distribute the torque tension on all over its surface during constant rotational load tension. However, the smaller Double helical gear didn't have the material mass to handle the vibration, rotational tension and the motor torque, and wheel motion while moving the heavy RC car. The added steel screws to the middle of Small double helical gears gave it the extra structural rigidity to allow the gears to compress and decompress onto and also handle the torque of the motor rotation to the wheels very well. Since the gear's high rotation along with the RC Car weight would have generated more than enough strain and heat on the Small Helical gears to break them apart [Simple fact the more surface area a gear on any material has the better heat dissipation the gear will manage to maintain but if the gear is made of plastic and has to be quite small then adding a steel or stainless steel screw that can absorb and handle the heat and high load on the gear then the lack of surface area on the small gear to handle the heat dissipation could be manageable and easy to deal with when the gear is at Load and motion].

[@TheLordbruh]

@thehardwareguy, what was the noozle diameter you used to print the gears?

[@thehardwareguy]

0.4mm

[@TheLordbruh]

@@thehardwareguyif I use 0.2 nozzle diameter the resistance will increase? I'll print a smaller gea than what you printed

[@4.094]

Your content improved my knowledge.

[@bulletproofpepper2]

machinists have be 3d printed gears for years to get machines back up and running or replace missing sizes. i feel glad to see better plastics for 3d printers. your project looks amazing ,great work!!! thanks for sharing.

[@octothorpian_nightmare]

I was a little surprised to see you are running the roller bearings without some kind of inner race. Did I miss it, or is the material holding up OK without one?

[@antobroski1373]

How did you mount the gears to the motors

[@avejst]

Great video! Thanks for sharing your experence with all of us :-)

[@thehardwareguy]

You're most welcome, thank you for supporting me🙏🏻

[@danielstewart3507]

Cool video. Nice development of your car.

[@FreedomAirguns]

I wonder if an extremely tough TPU would have been good for the teeth, possibly shaping a cylinder with herringbone teeth on the outside and the parallel teeth of a typical spur gear on the interior surface, to snap/glue on top of the main body of the gear, also shaped accordingly but made out of a rigid thermoplastic; to make it short: like a tire.😅 I hypothesize that the elasticity mixed with the rigidity could have a chance at trasferring torque even better (when lubed properly). The end result should give the benefits of a belt drive to a direct transmission system, given the layers of TPU are properly fused together in a single and uniform volume (with 100% infill).🎉 I must try that now.😅 I sincerely thank you for the inspiration and the valuable information.😊

[@kacperchrusciel890]

Id love to see experimentation on sealed units with lubrication

[@thehardwareguy]

Stay tuned! I've just completed my CNC build so I can manufacture my own metal parts now. I definitely plan to revisit this design.

[@sherrybaig3159]

i have also printed herringbone gears. but the problem im facing is that they are not fully meshed together (wobbly). which will give the problem due to alignment out.

[@SantaDragon]

1:40 5.500rpm? What kV has the motors and what batterie you use?

[@johnnienathan2808]

Amazing content 👍🏾 Thanks for this

[@dieselhead24]

clever idea to print the axles in other orientation for max strength

[@davethetaswegian]

Thanks, some good info. I am curious as to how well ABS would work as it is a lot cheaper than polycarbonate.

[@victornpb]

its actually really comparable to engineering materials, try MG94 ABS

[@nerobro]

Spur gears handle higher loads, not helical. Spur gears have a wide contact swath across each tooth, while helical have a single point load that moves across the face of the tooth. This is why you'll find straight cut gears in industrial and high power applications. Helical gears are quieter, they run smoother, and make less noise. But they are not as strong. If you have the space, and your installation can handle the thrust loads, they are "better". Double helical and herringbone move gets you at least half the contact pressure, which is better than plain helical, and gets you around thrust loads. I'm pleased you did a video on how to do structural prints.

[@thehardwareguy]

Yes, generally this is true. I was just sharing my personal experience with 3D printed gears. The herringbone gears that I printed outlasted my spur gears by an order of magnitude in my Raptor 2 project. The spur gears were far more susceptible to wearing/stripping and skipping. Herringbone gears dealt with the forces much better.

[@nerobro]

I believe your testing, i'm not doubting your lived experience. I have guesses as to why. With spur gears, the gear tooth contact point.. moves. With every tooth engagement it moves up and down the gear tooth face. With helical cuts, the contact point essentially does not move, the contact point rolls across the gear face. Maybe that's contributing to the inconsistancy with now i'm using quotes here "reality"? Your explanation clearly said spur gears have smaller contact area. Which is exactly the reverse of what happens when running cut or molded gears. TL;DR: Your experience is real, your explanation is wrong. @@thehardwareguy

[@Roobotics]

Why not cap off the top of the smaller gear with a bearing? I guess the M3 through the center must be good enough then if they stopped breaking after that though, but I wonder how much flex they endure due to trying to track up or down on the larger gear when torque is induced. Also I'm curious about the roller bearings.. why not normal bearings with a metal inner? So that the plastic isn't even a factor in wearing those parts out? Was there a significant price savings, or anything to do with larger radius for torque transfer?

[@rjw7058]

Dude, you are at the vanguard of 3d printed engines, keep on developing this creation, soon, it may allow anyone, and do mean anyone, to have affordable transportation>