Beginners Guide to Shelly Relays - Choose The Right Relay For The Job

[@GabrielKozsar]

Hi , I like the speed of the information (fast) , no small-talk , short video , just the important stuff , excellent presentation and circuit diagrams . For people who know a thing or two but need a clarification of the devices and features. Just what I needed. Perfect. Subscribed.

[@techguy348]

best home assistant content on KZbin

[@HeikoQuant]

It is certainly great, but Paul Hibbert is the more entertaining option. But a close second in my book.

[@techguy348]

@@HeikoQuant I'll take a look at him, but so far I have seen a lot of videos from the hook up that have ideas and the proper home automation layout I have dreamed about. That's why I hold the hook up in high regard...

[@TheHookUp]

Paul is absolutely a better entertainer than me.

[@nathanddrews]

@@TheHookUp That's the nice part about having so much choice! I much prefer less fluff - give me the knowledge! :D

[@djrosco1982]

@@TheHookUp Paul is entertaining for sure and he’s obviously a great guy. But I think more advanced smart home guys appreciate the attention to detail and thorough review you provide. Always great content 👍🏼

[@RonFarberNewman]

Great video, Rob! I would love a "Part 2" where you cover some of their more niche devices like the Shelly Dimmer 2, the Shelly RGBW2, Shelly EM, and the Shelly Uni! I'd love to, for instance, use the Dimmer 2 with a regular non-dimming light switch and have time of day automations in NodeRed determine how bright it is when it's turned on, but a little uncertain how to go about that.

[@markmceathron2013]

I second this

[@Rickr522]

Third....

[@justinracklin]

Fourth...

[@adityadinesh]

Fifth this

[@TenshiR]

Sixth this

[@audreez]

finally a channel with short intros and straight to the point technical info, you got a sub

[@Foojaleeckalikeelamaka]

I know you probably get a lot of these but I just wanted to thank you for your concise, informative & engaging videos. I'm currently building my first home & you have saved my wife from endless hours of my tantrums and crying "Why can't I just get it to work???". Thank you so much xo

[@W0Ndr3y]

Thanks for explaining the operation with the switch at the end, I've had trouble wrapping my head around how that works myself.

[@Tekc92]

Another solid video Rob. I cannot help but think your teaching and science background is a perfect fit for this. It shows in your delivery of information. I have recently watched multiple videos where the creator calls The Hook Up out as a source and a must for home automation enthusiasts. Keep up the great work.

[@TheHookUp]

Thanks Tom!

[@MountainJack28]

My guy your youtube is amazing. Thank you so much for the time you put in. I just happen to be looking at this video but I have looked at a few of your videos. I finally had to say something. Fantastic work.

[@TheHookUp]

Thanks!

[@lunatik9696]

Being able to use them locally, no cloud, just made my day. Off grid sometimes means no phone/ internet.

[@clellbritt3434]

Thanks for the video. For those of you not in HA yet, there is integration with ST now. I've got 2 use cases I've considered: 1)make a dumb floodlight smart by wiring the relay to the motion sensor and 2)make the dumb light on my smart garage door smart. Why the light can't also be controlled was definitely an oversight when I got the garage door 6 years ago.

[@fpvdan743]

Thank you for all the helpful videos! Would love to see one about how to make a ceiling fan smart.

[@kholy80]

One of the best methods of explanation out there! Excellent video

[@_O0.0O_]

In case I come back to this video for the 100th time; future me, you're looking for this frame: 7:56 Thanks Rob, this is the best explanation I can find about which Shelly to buy.

[@_O0.0O_]

Here we go, second time I came back here to find my previous comment, lol!

[@VicodinElmo]

This is amazing. I had resigned myself to never updating our ceiling lights because my wife loves our vintage toggle style switches but now we both win!

[@kvmgz]

Make a follow up video about the dimmer version please :)

[@justinracklin]

I came to the comments to ask that as well. And use case with a pull chain ceiling fan with light would be great as well!

[@jimallen8238]

These are so much better than my Sonoff switches. I like the ability to run 100% locally.

[@tdegler]

I've never noticed you asking for a sub, but you've just got one more ;) Great vid! Good details, all clear and structured. Thank you!

[@Rickr522]

I discovered the 1L a couple of days ago and have one on order. I've watched a few videos on it, but none as clear and consice as yours. As are all your videos. Thanks.

[@Capu57]

THIS IS AMAZING!!!!!!!!!! For years I have been looking for a way to add smart functionality to so many things in my house. Going to learn more about these and maybe buy some.

[@mr.receipts62]

great video, the only one that clicked for me. thanks!

[@jarnold2000]

Great video for those getting started with Shelly.

[@tengelgeer]

I my opinion you jumped a bit quick to the 1L being the only option is you don't have a Neutral at the switch. Because you can just as easy place the Shelly at the light if you have a box there. It's the preferred location here. And with the 1PM only having a single output the 2x L as input makes no sense. But it is a handy connection point for the L to the switch though :)

[@TheIcarusSystem]

So much good info. My old Fibaro ones started failing recently so looks like I'm going Shelly.

[@wesheim]

I just picked up one of these out of curiosity a few weeks ago... great video!

[@GunnyPhillips]

Whenever I start feeling smart I listen to one of your videos. Brings me right back down to where I need to be. :) Great info but I think I'll stick to my bulky Z Wave smart switches.

[@stephencoulter3613]

I installed Tuya smart switches in my lounge and hallway as those switches had a neutral wire. For the rest of the switches I installed the Shelly1 at the light, works great! Most wouldn't even know its a smart Light.

[@FrankGraffagnino]

Kudos to Shelly for building devices with a great interface and local control! And kudos to you to continuing to explain great products like this that support local control! We need more support of these types of products and less support to things that don't let cloud access be optional! Thanks for another great video. I just bought a new home and I think some shelly devices might be in my future.

[@guymross]

Thanks for the clear and concise explanation!

[@RicoPenguin]

I love shelly1 for dry contacts. I am using it to click any button in any device I want without hustle to find what voltage is on buttons. I smartified my 15yo gate, 3 garage doors, air aromatizer, 10yo coffee machine and many old appliances normally unsmartable :D

[@drdread]

A fantastically well put together video. Inspired. Many thanks!

[@browntigerus]

Great video Rob, short and to the point.

[@bipster]

Thank you! I've been waiting for this video since I found out about Shelly!

[@luckycatdad8369]

We need an updated version of this video. The 1L model is discontinued and I don't know which of their new models is the equivalent.

[@kumwamd]

Amazing overview and summary!! Love allí te built-in functionality of these little devices

[@shad0wguy]

Thank you for bringing the 1L to my attention as my house has no neutral and I have wanted to make my switches smart. Might give them a try.

[@leisureavidgentleman8901]

I didn’t know either until watching this video. This channel has great content!

[@Johnsormani]

Great Video with complete Information on shelly

[@frankoneill9612]

That was really clarifying - thank you!

[@bill_automated1226]

Great video Rob. I love the Shelly products.

[@HeikoQuant]

The app is quite good as well. And the cloud service is free. The whole thing works flawlessly with Alexa routines or their equivalent in the shelly app. Each relay comes with its own web server on a dedicated IP. These products are pure magic in terms of versatility. And they are dirt cheap compared to practically anything out there. I am currently at 22 shelly devices (Shelly 1 and 2.5, Shelly Dimmer, Shelly Socket). This brings me to the only caveat. Depending on your router it will be overwhelmed with Shellys once you really buy into them (which you will). I resorted to a dedicated router just for my Shellys since the WLAN had become seriously unstable.

[@yoshkey]

Awesome video, my experience with Shelly products has been great so far. I would love to see a video on Shelly Uni.

[@cosamuel7182]

New viewer here. Excellent rundown. I've been watching some of your older stuff on this subject and this was a very helpful update and summary. The *one* thing I think you could add of value is a typical 3-way switch wiring layout. I know there are a number of permutations, but at least get someone going here and point them off to other videos for more. I was convinced you weren't going to mention 3-way switching at all until you touched on the firmware config support aspect. Thanks for this. Just broke down and bought 3 Shelly 1's and a 4-pack of Sonoffs to get started down this rabbit hole

[@TheHookUp]

3 way switches are really hard to make content about because there are so many different ways they are implemented. That said, I've never seen a 3 way config that couldn't be automated with a shelly. Some configs require only 1 shelly, some require 1 at each switch, and some require a shelly 2.5 (or Shelly1L) with 2 switch inputs.

[@cosamuel7182]

@@TheHookUp that’s interesting. I’m hoping the Shelly 1 units I just bought will work for my circuits. It would be cool to see a rundown on how the others are used in this way Almost all of the lighting circuits in my home are 3-way. Especially the exterior ones I am looking to automate

[@babylonfive]

These videos are fantastic. Well done.

[@MarkWiltshire.]

Love the video. -nice clear information - do you have an updated version for the new Shelly products available in 2024?

[@BWSSoldya]

Absolutely perfect timing Rob, I'm currently inventorying for my new house I'll be getting the keys to at the end of this month and this is exactly the info I need. Cheers!

[@jaap7374]

Be aware that cheap wifi will get issues when you have ~50ish devices connected. Unifi or a decent mesh network is critical for a stable smart home

[@marcusone1]

For no Load in the Switch, You can simply put the Shelly 1 in the light box where the switch wires go (would work with multiple lights as well, just need to find where the switch wires go). Works great!

[@limitedmobilitysolutionsin8169]

I am trying to solve a unique problem. For people with ALS who cannot talk and therefore uses an Eye Gaze device, I want to be able to have the eye gaze device energize the relay which will then short two leads together simulating a button push on a Call Attendant Device. From your talk I think the Shelly 1 is the right device. I want to power the Shelly device with a 12v DC power supply. (Think of the eye gaze device as a Windows computer that senses eye movement. I can design a visual button on the screen that would result in a curl command being executed as an example.) Here are my questions: 1: Is the Shelly1 the best device for this scenario? 2. I plan to connect a 12v DC power supply to the Shelly device (much like an old cell phone charger with transformer at the AC Plug) As long as I remember to move the jumper Correct? 3. I can connect the two leads from my button to the O and 1 terminals. I assume the Shelly Bypass would not apply to my scenario. 4. If all is correct, it is a matter of deciding how to talk to the Shelly1. Rest might be the easiest method via the eye gaze device, but I would explore the push methods as well. Thanks!

[@Thamli]

Super informative video. Thanks a million! You should get some WAGO connectors. Makes connecting cables a breeze

[@RockAndRose]

This is a terrific video. Thanks so much for the high level overview. I'm exploring home automation for a brand new home, and just came across Shelly. This is a completely different model than your typical smart controller, smart home setup. But so much more powerful!

[@adogonasidecar1262]

Superb video, best in class

[@AnthonyClarke1965]

Do you have an update with all the new models of shelly devices? this was a great video and blog

[@blakadders]

brilliantly laid out!

[@raysieber9233]

Available GPIO pins is the thing I'm looking for. As Dr Zzs in now coming around too in recent steams, a light switch is just that (one function). It needs to be more, a PIR, a temp sensor, the ability for a retro fitted an RGB momentary switch (to tell you things - with a colour) this all comes with a few GPIO pins that are easy to get at and able to be broken out.

[@leisureavidgentleman8901]

Interesting. Commenting to follow and refer back to for future use. Thanks!

[@pfurrie]

Would like to see how the Shelly is physically integrated into your wall boxes. Ours are always so tight with wires that I'm wondering how you would fit a Shelly relay in with the rest.

[@bretts4343]

Deep boxes! I made the mistake when I was just a young 'en and had first moved into my house of saving the 10 or 20¢ by buying the smallest, cheapest boxes. They're a major pain! Deeper boxes have more cubic inches to work with allowing more wires and more devices/bigger devices.

[@robertdalga128]

Great question! Poor answer! There's no way someone will yank out their existing boxes and put in deeper ones (what a wiring and drywall nightmare!). Anyone else have a better idea?

[@mistvan3]

Shelly Mini versions appeared now@@robertdalga128

[@TheGilesy31]

this was HUUUUUUUGE. Thanks Rob!

[@koevoet7288]

In our house most switches dont have neutral (NL, Europe) but its pretty easy to get it if you know where the wires go to

[@scottmuench6855]

Fantastic diagrams and content, please do a similar video on dimming and LED Shelly devices next

[@SmartLifeEnthusiast]

Same thing. Use Dimmer2 instead of the relays, use Bypass when wired without Neutral and load's too low

[@MatSmithLondon]

So thorough as usual Rob! I still like the Sonoff minis flashed with Tasmota for ONE of the applications you listed out here (i.e. basic mains switching), they are a little cheaper and deal with 99% of applications I need personally. But great to have the Shelly lineup clarified in a way that I can understand!

[@OldCurmudgeon3DP]

The 1pm needs an inline fuse even on a 15A breaker. Sadly lost 2 last month due to a failing (didn't know at the time) LED floodlight (95W normal load); the breaker did trip. The 1pm is still functioning, but the relay contact is toast. I will be putting a fuse in line this time around that's about 3x the expected load. The 1pm has been rock solid for 2yrs as a dusk til dawn photocell replacement.

[@TheHookUp]

Never a bad idea to add fuses.

[@wotnix]

Hi Rob, Great video! For LED lights i always use a neutral wire to connect the Shelly's. If you don't you may have some flickering of the led's if you turn off the lights.

[@Chris-ut6eq]

Still helpful after 2 years but curious about updated devices. I'll look and see on your channel search.

[@cookiemichelangelo]

Shelly 1L is Great for existing UK systems too!

[@leester9487]

Great video thanks. I've been searching for smart switches and reading reviews and it seems like the switches are either tremdsously expensive at scale, or junk that will fail in the future.

[@DanBollendorf]

The thing I like about using regular smart switches is I can use extra automations to keep the state of the switch and the device it's controlling the same. I have a switch that isn't connected to anything that uses an automation to control a smart plug in the basement, by creating automations that turn the switch on or off if the plug is turned on or off and vise versa they stay synced.

[@matthew35673m]

With a Shelly, you are best to swap out the light switch for a momentary mech instead of a toggle switch. Then the switch does have a state to get out of sync.

[@Halsalloum]

Wooow… A great video that explains Shelly products… I have a question. Which Shelly relay I can use to shutdown my water pump when level reach low ?

[@justinhansen8298]

Would it be possible to get an update on this guide? I'm finally get around to setting these up and I see more options on Shelly's site. Also, where do you buy these in the US?

[@GeoMan1217]

Any chance you doing a video on the Shelly i4?

[@ianrobson9612]

Great Video. I have a question as to the correct relay. I have a single switch that turns on the fan and it's light. Firstly I want to be able to install a relay in the fan that would a turn on the light and fan separately. Secondly have the relay or another select the speed of the fan. It has four states off, 1, 2 & 3.

[@naxey]

Can you do a new video or a part2 for the new shelly relays that have been released? Thanks :)

[@alohava]

Rob, thanks for the rundown! I’d like to control my garage door from Home Assistant. Based on this video, I think the Shelly 1 is the right one for me. Do you agree?

[@alfa8822]

Great video! I would like to see a video on how to wire a Shelly to a 220 spa pump and how to use a motion detection from a camera to turn on a Shelly. I saw a guy named Troy Hunt had a KZbin video and did that with a Unifi G4 camera. But he didn't saw how he did it. I would also like to see your preference on which app service you prefer to control the Shellys.

[@philwildemann8369]

Came to your channel to see if you had any videos on this and lo and behold - one week since submission. Now if we could find something for 20A....

[@TheHookUp]

Anything that high of amperage you should consider using a contactor: amzn.to/3wn2hcM and just actuate the contactor with a shelly. You can use the Shelly EM for that and get power monitoring as well.

[@TheRev0]

I'm glad other people are finding the video useful. I'm a bit disappointed that you left some questions unanswered. This video seems targeted towards beginners such as me, but you mentioned some concepts with no explanation. Here's where I think the video could have been improved: 5:11 Why are both load wires required to be connected to the 1PM L terminals if the current draw is 16A? 5:32 Why does it matter that no current passes through the Shelly 1 I and O terminal unless the voltage is applied to the I terminal? 6:25 Exactly what kinds of uses are there for the Shelly 1 SW terminals for if they are powering by 12V? 6:50 Why does having a dry contact relay increase the number of wires?

[@SmartLifeEnthusiast]

5:11 - You actually don't need the 2 terminals when drawing 16A through the 1PM (although you should never run electronics at their max capacity for long times). The 1PM has 2 terminals (which are internally connected) because they had the space in the enclosure as it doesn't have the dry relais (so no I-terminal). This is useful for hooking up your switch without needing a Wago to split the incoming Live wire. 5:32 - The 1 has a "dry relais". This means that it just opens/closes the connection between the 2 terminals. You can use this to 'cut' a Live wire powering a device, but also to connect 2 terminals on a garage door opener (which won't be running Live voltage but rather low-voltage signal). It also means that you can power the Shelly 1 with low-voltage and switch mains voltage, or vice-versa. 6:25 - You can hook it up to e.g. a reed switch to 'read' the state of your (garage) door. Combined with using the I/O terminals to control the garage door motor, this means you have actual feedback of the garage door being closed. 6:50 - Since the output is not connected to the power supply of the Shelly, you need an additional terminal. The relais opens/closes the contact between the I/O terminals. With only 1 terminal, there's no connection to open/close. The other Shelly's output on the O terminal what's coming in on the L terminal.

[@TheHookUp]

@ThatCoder great answers. Although I thought the second L terminal on the Shelly1PM is because the terminal blocks weren't rated for 16A.

[@SmartLifeEnthusiast]

@@TheHookUp I thought so too at first, that they were 'only' rated for 10A. But I was corrected on that on the Shelly FB group. Terminals are OK with 16A.

[@TheHookUp]

That makes sense. I hadn’t considered the fact that 2 terminals in and one out would be silly.

[@LowJSamuel]

Something that might be useful is how to best wire these relays to a light that uses existing 3-way switches, while preserving functionality of both switches. Ultimately, you want to ignore all of the existing wiring except one wire: the wire that goes from the second switch to the device. Cut this and use the cut wire coming from the switch for the SW input and the cut wiring going to the device for the O output. Typically, in modern homes, neutral is found in every box and isn't a problem. What is a problem with this configuration is the always hot line. Normally, one 3-way switch box will have the always hot line, while the other will have the wire going to the device. Sometimes, such as if you have a box with two switches for two separate devices, you may get lucky and find an always hot line right in the box you need it. Otherwise, you'll have to run a hot line. You have two options for this and, depending on your house, one may be easier than the other. You can run the new line through the wall into the switch box, or you can run the new line straight to the device box and put the Shelly in that box.

[@SmartLifeEnthusiast]

Or replace latching/toggling switches with momentary/retractive ones. Install all switches in parallel, using 1 of the old switch wires for Live and the other for switch signal. Or install i3 behind each switch. Use the 2 switch wires to run Live and Neutral to the next switch.

[@leisureavidgentleman8901]

Commenting so I can find your write up again in the future. Thanks for this information, very informative!!

[@tollygul12]

4:32 a type for 330V this should be 110V, maybe add a note in the video for that

[@TheHookUp]

thanks.

[@dduartez2010]

what a great video, and i think Shelly is developed with great flexability for end users. Now I have a old alarm system that I wanna use the PiR Sensors, since they have a output for resistive is there any Shelly that can check the state of the output of the PiR so i can program to send a notification? thanks in advance

[@stephenpearse9778]

As usual great, easy to follow tutorial. However I've now wasted a day trying to integrate a shelly 2.5 into a 3-way switch configuration. Very few resources on internet about this, and some conflict. No magic smoke yet but lots of circuit breaker tripping. It would be great if you had a video on how to add a Shelly to a 3 (or 4) way light circuit!

[@TheHookUp]

This is for a shelly 1, but the main concepts are the same. A 2.5 is actually a bit more versatile: kzbin.info/www/bejne/aZjVqGykg9qLpJI

[@stephenpearse9778]

@@TheHookUp d’oh, I should have searched harder! Thank you!!

[@wingtracer]

Have you found a wall switch that doesn’t “stick” in any one position? Ie, press up to turn on, and switch returns to “middle” after press. Same with down. Essentially a spring loaded rocker switch. Up to to on, down to turn off. This would be acceptable to me since I can see if the light is on.

[@ELIKESBIKES]

Hello there, can you make an updated video.

[@crayon772000]

Great video! I learnt a lot from your video. I have a question for Shelly 2.5 wiring for 2 way wiring. I will have 1 normal switch (1 gang) and the other one will be 2-way switch. Do you have any diagram for this setup on how to connect? Thanks.

[@haloguy628]

Hey Rob. Maybe an update would be beneficial since Shelly has now some new products that are not included in your review.

[@SiBex_ovh]

Shelly 1L + bypass do a flickering light on OFF possition :( I replace it to Sonoff ZBMINI2L and works for all my light circut ! For NoNeutral the ZBMINI2L is a winner !

[@jensschroder8214]

the round Shelly 1 generation relays are no longer manufactured. Only the Shelly 1L is still available. In addition to the Shelly 3EM, the Shelly Pro 3EM is also available. Almost all old Shellys will be replaced by the new Shelly Pro series. This one has the ESP32 on the board. Can do MQTT and Cloud at the same time. And can https encryption. There will be a Bluetooth switch that can only control the Shelly Pro series

[@MarbledPaladin]

Can't you put the Shelly at the load to have access to the neutral or do you absolutely need need the neutral to be at the switch (I guess to power the Shelly)?

[@lancemehle6840]

Rob, can you please explain what you would need for a single light controlled by two or more switches?

[@tonymiles1888]

Hi Great channel I love your explanations. I'm looking for a product that can be installed in a ceiling rose that will enable constant power to my smart bulb even when the light switch is off. Do you know of anything?

[@kotgc7987]

Can I assume the house has every power point with a Shelly switch wired in? The Shelly switches seem better than smart plugs which are plugged in and then a device is plugged into the smart plug right? Still getting my head around how Shelly switches might be optimised by not needing smart light or other smart device controls? Seems like Shelly switches can address a large % of smart home needs right?

[@imolazhp11]

Love your content. Looking at using Shelly’s to automate pool equipment including lights. Starting with lights. Current lights are 12v, a transformer downgrades power from 110v to 12v. Should I go Shelly 1 in the transformer? Or Shelly 1L in the switch? The lights have been changed from crazy wattage incandescents to 50w LED. Two lights, two separate switches, two separate 12v transformers. Thanks for the incredible content and amazing attention to detail.

[@TheHookUp]

Are you sure it’s 12v dc? My pool lights are 12v ac

[@Artificial.Unintelligence]

Serious question for those trying to learn - are there connection problems (too many wireless devices) or security concerns (all these are wifi devices, people say don't do that for cameras but all these devices are also hooked up to your home & network - are they secure?) Sidebar - why do these over non-wifi 'smart switches' I thought shelly parts were like $50+ each, that'd add up just as fast and not as straight forward. But again, I've only just begun researching. Thanks!

[@markwilson5666]

Thus good bro keep it up...but how do we covert evo d5 motor gate to smart by using shelly

[@chrisdittemore6012]

Can you use a shelly 2.5 to run a light switch and a fan switch? In the same electrical box

[@stevendennis5911]

Thanks for this Rob. Just getting into home automation and ordered some shelly devices. Wondering if you know of any wall smart receptacle w/ USB that work locally and with HA? If I put in a regular receptical with USB, there isn't enough room to put in a shelly device into the box in the USA I have found. Could do z-wave or wifi. Ty.

[@Adam-vp7vr]

Hi, love the video, I found an answer to my question about which relay will act as delay for a independent circuit- shelly 1. Is there a shelly isolated relay with 2 inputs and outputs? I want to use it enable/disable a pair of speakers, but I'd rather use 1 device rather then two. Thanks Adam P.S. just fried my first shelly, manufacturer of DC PSU put + and - in reverse on the diagram.

[@dylanjones3129]

Can you please do a video setting up a i4 to a shelly2.5

[@Zenmartian]

I have a propane furnace with only ONE wire with a switch. Which relay would I need for that to automate it ?

[@SmartLifeEnthusiast]

Note: - Shelly 1PM does indeed have 2 L-terminals. AFAIK it only needs 1, even on full load. 2nd one is useful for connecting switch. Since it doesn't have the dry relays they had room for an additional terminal. - Shelly 1 doesn't have overtemp protection, apparently because it doesn't need it as it uses a relays instead of electronic switching (that's as far as my knowledge on that subject goes). - Shelly also added unicast CoIoT, which should fixed the IGMP Snooping issue but does fall-back from multicast to unicast.

[@TheHookUp]

My issue with CoIoT on unicast is that it defeats the purpose. I like the CoIoT option because it allows for discovery, if I were going to use unicast I'd use MQTT instead.

[@lucgagnon8466]

I’m amongst the people he mentions at the beginning: I don’t know anything about Amps and loads and hot wires, so I need to pass on the Shelly although I know it would increase the possibilities of my HA setup. Is there a simpler approach, like « 99% of the time, for regular/recent houses, just buy Shelly x »?

[@the-papaw]

I am looking for a small, thin smart relay switch that will work with 12v DC LED lights, any suggestions?

[@TheHookUp]

Is it a regulated 12V system or straight from the battery (12-15v)?

[@rcv78]

Hi Rob, why does a lot of People place the shelly behind the switches? If you place them behind the light itself you have hot wire, nutral wire and the switched wire. And if you use 2-way or 3 way is doesn't even matter.

[@cskelsey]

Love the Shellys. I have several setup. What about the dimmer? Lately iPhone app will lose connection after 1min or so (browser is fine). Also my detached state is not sending the signal to the Hubitat consistently on just one of my 2.5 relays (several others don't have this problem). But really these are incredibly great devices!

[@RobertBasil]

Outside fan with only hot and neutral? Which Shelly do I need and which terminals do I hook them up to? No switch, they are outside fans and only controlled by a remote. I've searched online but have only found three wire hookups. I want to bring my fans into my home assistant. Thanks!