Furnaces in 2025 | What you should know

[@terraplane7655]

As a rule I won’t click on videos where the maker makes a ridiculously animated face…to get attention? But I clicked on this to let you know. Looking forward to hopefully watching future videos. Clearly the research must recommend it but it keeps me from clicking on many.

[@handymanprosradioshow1600]

Great video.

[@p35flash97]

Man I subbed and I've really enjoyed your videos. I have a package unit with a 14 seer AC and a NG furnace. Where on the sticker can I find out the efficiency of the NG furnace portion of this Goodman package unit.

[@TheHVACDopeShow]

That's an 80% system, there's not really any 96% efficient package units that I'm aware of. You'll look up the model number on the rating plate and the manual will tell you everything you need but I can almost guarantee that's an 80% furnace in a package unit

[@p35flash97]

@ well I’ll be following you because when it’s time to replace it I want to be fully informed on the most efficient unit especially on the AC side. Being from the Deep South, AC is the BULK of my energy usage. I’d like to move into a higher seer unit when it comes time to upgrade/replace.

[@user-rl7bq2nq6q]

Can you talk about acidity of condensate corroding pipes? I've heard it can corrode drain pipes in the home. What is the best way or solution so it doesn't do damage. I'm putting in a dual fuel heat pump

[@Ckirkham21]

I would recommend an inline UV water filter after the in line water supply from the street. 🤷🏻🤘🏼

[@user-rl7bq2nq6q]

@@Ckirkham21 Thanks. I thought I had researched it thoroughly. I will ask my contractor.

[@Ckirkham21]

@ softener as well if the house doesn’t already have one.

[@josephpadula2283]

Plastic pipe and calcium rock chips to neutralize.

[@user-rl7bq2nq6q]

@@josephpadula2283 Thanks. I just looked up condensate neutralizer

[@JasonEDragon]

I live in Western New York and about 18 years ago I replaced an 80% furnace with a fully modulating 93% furnace in the basement. That was the best decision that I ever made as it made the house much more comfortable in the winter with fewer cold spots. And it was very quiet. I also noticed that my electric bill went down by about $10 a month, part of which I assume is that it takes less energy to push air through ductwork at lower speed. But I made a mistake by allowing myself to be sold a single speed AC unit to go along with that. It is better than nothing, but it is loud and drafty. It is oversized on an 80-degree muggy day and undersized on a 95-degree day. And it does a poor job of cooling the upstairs even after adding a number of upstairs return ducts. So, I still use a few small window AC units upstairs. For my next system I'm looking forward to either adding a heat pump to the mix or going all the way with just heat pumps. I'm hoping to go with the latter mainly to get myself into a position to avoid having a single point of failure by having multiple independent systems. My past furnaces always seem to have broken on the coldest days of the year, and I was pressured to make quick decisions - which didn't leave much time to research options properly.

[@capps2015]

In New York, I'd go with a hybrid system. Heat pump would do well for you down to about 35. From 35 down, you'll need to use the furnace as the heat pump becomes inefficient due to the defrost cycles. Just speaking from my experiences with houses in Western Tennessee where we see about a month of 20s and teens for lows. The heat pump systems are all in resistance heating burning 10KW hardly maintaining setpoint at those temps.

[@JasonEDragon]

@@capps2015 The problem in New York is that our furnaces tend to be in basements and adding a traditional AC or heat pump unit to a furnace just does not do a good job of cooling the upstairs with today's warmer summers. And I'd like a distributed solution so that a HVAC failure can be repaired as time allows - instead of always being an emergency.

[@Gamerz00760]

Depending on pending tax policy which may remove these tax credits, presently there is a 30% tax credit on heatpumps & even some wood burning stoves/pellet stoves I believe.

[@nifethrubutter]

Skip to 1:30 for the actual video to start

[@sdmarathe]

whatever i have read so far, for furnace, a properly sized 80% single stage is the way to go. Less parts to go bad and it usually lasts > 20 years without issues. Also parts are slightly cheaper as well. nowadays, fuel charges are only a fraction of total utility bill = there are customer and the savings will need 10 yrs to ROI. and 96% or 2 stage are more likely to fail right around that time - so what good is it to need 2 furnaces in life span of 1 single stage

[@nifethrubutter]

I think if you’re paying someone for maintenance/repairs then yes 80% is absolutely the way to go. If you’re handy & capable of fixing things yourself, the premium is not that much more for a 96%.

[@capps2015]

​@@nifethrubutterBeing handy is one thing. Getting parts is another.

[@45KevinG45]

Couldnt agree more.

[@45KevinG45]

As an hvac tech, when i own a house i will be putting in a 2 stage heat pump with a 80% efficient furnace with a simple honeywell thermostat

[@eDoc2020]

I don't know where you live but around here the gas connection fee / customer charge / etc is $10 a month and the vast majority during the winter is actual usage.

[@stoveguy2133]

I want a dependable unit that is sturdy and runs

[@TheHVACDopeShow]

80% single stage is "sturdy and reliable". Less efficient but in rentals that is what we install, tenants don't care about efficiency they care about reliable heat so that should tell you all you need to know. If efficiency is important and comfort then a modulating system is best for comfort, quietest etc but IMO the cost upgrade is ultimately a wash. Some will disagree especially if you have propane then that's not true propane is much more expensive to run, or anywhere with expensive natural gas*

[@jenko701]

When a high efficiency furnace breaks you will loose more money than you would ever save on energy. 80 all the way to save money over years of use and less break downs to boot . Ask the question ,” if I need a main board how much would that cost “ the same with motors . Ask .

[@TheHVACDopeShow]

Depends on fuel type, natural gas it's probably a wash, propane you're better off high efficiency you'll save the cost of the board you're referencing in 1 winter. It was $700 a month for propane before we ran a natural gas line so I agree 80% are most reliable for sure but if you're on propane we'll still recommend High efficiency all day. Depends on gas cost too in CO gas is super cheap

[@jenko701]

Not to mention board shortages