How To Slim Your Shirts With (Simple) Darts | DIY Tailor Series

Aspiring Gent: / aspiring_gent
KZbin: / @aspiringgent
I asked Louis to come show me a few different DIY fixes for clothing. This one we do a simple straight stitch by hand to repair a small tear in jeans, pants, or a shirt.
We will also be showing how to :
Repair Pants By Hand: • How to: Repairs Pants ...
Hem your pants by hand: • Hem Your Own Trousers ...
Hem Jeans with a sewing machine: • How to Hem Jeans - DIY...
Repair a seam rip
Links to those videos will be added once published.
Check out more @ TheKavalier.com
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The Buttoned Up Podcast - Modest Man x The Kavalier
iTunes: apple.co/2oWTJKs Google Play: bit.ly/2nQ6ZiJ
The Kavalier on Twitter: / the_kavalier
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My Family: ShanahanClan.org
For reference, I am 6’4 usually 170lb. Typical sizes of clothing:
T-shirts: S
Long sleeve shirts/button downs: M
Dress Shirts: 15.5 x 35
Pants: 30 x 34
Dress Shoes: 12

[@Mas_Tun]

A couple of extra tips: Old bars of soap work well as chalk, so you can use that if you can't find any chalk locally nor want to wait for some to arrive in the mail (I just use the white, unscented ones). Darts are the perfect opportunity to practice your hand stitching, so try it out if you don't have a machine. Just make sure you follow your markings, and that your stitches are short and even.

[@andrew1212w]

Very good video I have several shirts which I will get taper darts put in at a local Taylor’s 👍

[@KayossMonkey]

old bars of soap might leave oil stains on fabric, so wouldn't suggest that. Talking from personal experience....

[@Mas_Tun]

What kind of soap did you use? Some bars of soap add moisturizers or fragrance which would leave behind oil residues. I use unscented white soap since that's what I use to wash my hands, and I've never had an issue of oil stains. I've probably used soap to mark at least 200 articles of clothing over the years, of various colors and fabrics. If anything, from my experience, soap steams out more easily than some of the chalks I have used.

[@KayossMonkey]

I use scented ones. Never thought about it...

[@justaburdeninmyhandjustana8519]

You can also use deodorant, corn starch, or even flour

[@davidalantroyer]

Guys, this video totally changed my wardrobe. I wear size small shirts, and my chest measurement is eleven inches greater than my waist, so that’s a pretty large chest to waist ration. Obviously virtually no shirt has ever fit me in a tailored way, until tonight. I showed my wife this video, and she did 3 of my “go to” flannels. WOW is all I can say. To have a shirt on that fits the shape of your body is game changing. Every single button up or button down shirt I own will have to have this treatment now. Thank you again for making this so simple for us.

[@yolandadavila4110]

Thanks my grandson dresses formally for work and I’ve been thinking over how I can do it. Now you have given me the idea. Looks very neat. Thank again.

[@toddalbert8342]

Timely and perfectly the instructive/visual guidance I needed to dart up several summer shirts!! The Kavalier is a mind reader! Just finished cuff hemming 23 pars of trouser legs. It was a grand adventure. I would like to DIY jacket sleeves next.

[@sheikhselim2312]

I had a hard time grasping the math of the tailoring the first time around watching the video. But the second time made more sense. This is an inspirational video for young men like me with a strict budget to learn how to dress sharp. Thank you for sharing this information.

[@Peter95111]

I've been doing this to my dress/ work shirts for years. At first I always did the side seam like you showed at first. I tried darts but they were a little harder. This is a great tutorial. I'll try that from now on.

[@The_Kavalier]

🙂

[@zaniac100]

Thanks for the helpful video. At 50 I thought of altering my own clothes watched a few instruction videos like this one, then decided to buy a sewing machine. (I actually bought the same machine seen in this video - something I only realised after I bought it. It was on sale at half price.) Anyway for my first alterations on an actual item of clothing I followed these instructions and tapered an old business shirt that I never wear, then did business shirt that is relegated to weekend wear only now. I made a mistake on the first one but the second went fine. Thanks for good clear instructions.

[@imdbtoo]

Walmart has a decent machine on the cheap. It replaced my old JCPenney machine that squeaked something fierce when I used it (with that noise, NEVER).

[@ampecsu]

0:35 ....he did not like you saying THAT LOL

[@villegas24]

Yeah that was a big no no lol

[@RichLunaMusic]

Who cares? haha

[@mmarszalek]

This is what I was looking some time ago and I couldn't find anything useful. Great idea for a new series. Can't wait for further videos!

[@The_Kavalier]

Thank you Michal! Same experience here, except 6 years ago 😉

[@Blafard666]

There is absolutely no chance I try do this myself but that was very instructive ...

[@yougants8927]

its easy you should give a try

[@zlatkostevanovic5891]

@@yougants8927 no it's not

[@dsbmac6476]

I tried this. IMO this alteration goes too high up the back. It alters the fit across the chest/shoulders which isn't usually where the excess fit is. I would only come up to around the bottom of the armhole. This takes the slop from the sides but leaves the shoulder fit as is.

[@MeepMeep88]

Yep there's a bunch of different darts you can put on a shirt. I was experimenting with darts and you could actually put a curved dart from the back curved to the seam where the sleeves connect. Hides the darts better imo

[@James2swift]

There is usually excess fabric around the CHEST, making the dart higher than the arm hole is the only way to reduce excess fabric in that area.

[@shanejones5885]

This literally made me want to get up and try this. Great video guys

[@DB-ck4bj]

I've not seen this explained in such an easy-to-understand manner before. Thanks!

[@lchpmn]

Thank you, thank you! I need to take in XL work shirts for my SIL who is really tall, but thin as can be. The XL gives him the length he needs, but the XL is way too much material around. I followed these instructions once before and it worked perfectly. I have another batch of 5 shirts to take in for him and just went looking for your video again!!

[@stuartwakefield1207]

I just took in a shirt using this method, although I didn't star the dart until it was five inches from the yoke, and it worked perfectly. Thank you for sharing this knowledge!

[@auntigingy8666]

Would be helpful if you told us how and why the 3.5 inches is different for other people and how you determine the measurement differences and why!

[@savvylifestrategies9445]

Excellent "how to," Jon. I like this new series.

[@osadolorosamudiamen7589]

Savvy Life Strategies Nice lecture bro 🙏

[@anneharris8669]

Outstanding! I'm definitely going to try this! Ty for sharing!

[@tracycollins9122]

Thank you so much for the helpful tutorial!! Easy to follow - Took me less than 30 minutes!

[@The_Kavalier]

👊🏻👊🏻

[@kfok01]

What about the arm area if it’s too big as well?

[@darrencruse305]

Just watched your video then marked out my shirt got the mrs to sew it up fits like a glove. Thanks so much

[@prasannanalli1728]

Awesome 👌 👏 👍

[@bmj4052]

Newbie here: great video! Very clear and helpful. I can't wait to check out more of your videos.

[@KEAHON]

Can you do this with striped shirts? I lost weight and have several striped dress shirts that are about 1” too wide on either side. If you dart both sides will the stripes look weird?

[@ilikewasabe]

Subbed to Louis's channel! It's a channel a really need!

[@laynesbass]

I'm trying this tonight. setting up the sewing machine is the hardest bit

[@thedon86]

Practical DIY to learn. That's a home run.

[@standom2390]

Thank you guys! I'm on PKD-Carnivore for 2 years, and I need to take in ALL my cloth. Down from XXL to L.

[@sujatakumar1756]

Very clear instructions and very nicely done. Thank you.

[@janusg8680]

Thank you. This worked great for me. Easier than I thought.

[@qormi1000]

Excellent video. Thank you so much. I am going to try that on the back of a dress I need to take the fullness from.

[@andreleverettejr3747]

AG is a great teacher

[@krollic]

I really enjoy stretch dress shirts like the ones from woodies and then getting them darted/tapered. You can achieve a super tailored fit that hugs your form closely and looks great without compromising movement. tbh I would like to see more high quality suit wool fabrics with stretch in them so you could achieve the same thing.

[@AspiringGent]

They are definitely coming just a matter of time.

[@SteveRotheGarden]

This could help some folks, but a few things: the patterned shirt makes the measuring easier than many shirts; the taper was maximized at the center rather than the waist, so you can see the result is too snug in the torso/chest; and this method adds a sewn seam - which could have flaws - to the look, and on the plainly visible back, whereas my preferred method of takiing it in at the side seams adds no new seams and helps hide any flaws under the arm.

[@bobluhrs]

I go down the sides and up under the arms, sometimes down the arms a bit, so nothing shows. I finish by zig-zag stitching 1/4 inch outside the seam and cutting the fabric just outside the zig-zag stitch. Inside it can look a little messy but the fit looks great on the outside, nothing shows except the seam down the side is a little bit indented, you never see that, and the shirt fits awesome and no sign of alterations. It does commit the shirt to the new size since I cut the fabric. Leaving the fabric can work if not too much of it.

[@prasannanalli1728]

Superb looking good after the altercation.

[@paecpc]

Great, I will have many more shirts to wear in my closet, cheers 🥂!

[@thespacesbetweenstudio3346]

Just tried my first dart last night. The top point is a little messy but ill keep practicing.

[@PaulSchortemeyer]

Brilliant video and clear explanation - thanks a bunch!

[@billkilpatrick3465]

Nicely done! Very informative in a very short video!

[@olddognewtricks7599]

Thanks for that. I've just lost weight and I will be taking this to all my shirts that are just hanging in the wardrobe at the moment.

[@mariposa1933]

Im a female and love this for some of my tops! Thank you guys! 👍🙌

[@fljj9261]

Great video! Thank you! Can you use a serger to cut off the remaining fabric?

[@prasannanalli1728]

Truly helpful 😊

[@THELASTNUMBER1]

THANKS AND """"EID MUBARAK"""" TO BOTH OF YOU

[@alexcortes8054]

great video for a beginner ! thanks

[@jotacalvo]

I question sewing videos because of the hacks some people use. Then I saw Louis. Ok, I can trust it 🙂👍

[@pm6613]

I did this once in an 'emergency', with a stapler. :)

[@elequencychi9484]

O-0

[@mikecurtis11]

@@elequencychi9484 MacGuyver it!

[@AlexandeKnight]

Hope those staples were stainless steel or the rust stains would be an absolute pain.

[@pablojuliangomezguzman8814]

Awesome 👏🏼 thanks 🙏 ... from Guatemala c.a.

[@julianzuloaga]

This is GOLD! 🔥

[@akbunny5221]

That was excellent gentlemen, thank you.....!

[@peterellis2885]

Thanks guys - very helpful! Pete

[@lmin1989]

Looks great! Thank you for sharing

[@LorenzoTheLeo]

AWESOME TUTORIAL! Thanks For The Video, It Was / Is Extremely Helpful.

[@margot2001]

Also you can use a friction pen for your marks : the ink goes off whith friction, but also with heating (ironing and/or washing).

[@alexquyenvo5196]

Great tip, didn't think of that till you said it, thanks !

[@margot2001]

@@alexquyenvo5196 You're welcome. I got it from another tuto ;) Pass it on !

[@alexquyenvo5196]

@@margot2001 right on, it's always nice to pass on knowledge hihi...

[@Brandonh31]

Could the darts just be positioned over the side seams so as to not add more seams? I found that on my practice shirt, it bunched a bit at the top of the dart.. Thanks for the video

[@ghoulie1313666]

don't have an answer but in the video you also see that when they are done. it has a bunching at the top of his shoulder blade

[@malikabdul6263]

good working brother

[@quasimodoo17]

I'm wondering, could you do the same the same thing with a blazer or jacket?

[@shekhar_sahu]

Didn't know it's called Dart. Now I will be altering a lot of my shirts :)

[@c1ssalc]

Very well done video. Super informative and helpful. Thanks!

[@jyotiphadnis5640]

No

[@jeffer168]

Would like to see a similar video but for t-shirts including how to slim the sleeves.

[@DM-mt7km]

Interesting video. How much does a tailor typically charge to alter a dress shirt in this way?

[@davevanfunk8917]

Very helpful!

[@friendlygoz]

I’m a huge fan of the channel. I love that you are doing videos on alterations. I wanted to know what your guest thinks about the difference between taking a shirt in on the sides and darts, like the ones he sewed into your shirt. I’ve only ever taken my shirt in from the sides. Thoughts? Thanks.

[@AspiringGent]

Darts are quick and easy and good for giving the body a little shape. Taking in the sides is a little more time consuming and takes more skill to give a great finish look. However, is way more customizable for the fit.

[@friendlygoz]

Thanks so much. I have a few Charles Tyrwhitt shirts that have darts already. I may work with the existing darts to make the shirts more fitted. Thanks for the reply and congrats on a great channel.

[@MeepMeep88]

@@friendlygoz Darts help accentuate the curve of your back. The sides does what it says it does, accentuate the sides. You need both for a shirt to look good. But you'll survive if you just have one =D

[@hazee8089]

I am going to take my white shirt to tailor tommorow.

[@jameslovering9158]

Very cool shirts for me are always too baggy around the waist for my chest size, I used to get bespoke shirts but not able to now ( too expensive ). The darts look great and easy todo.

[@daisysummer1575]

Now, I just have to buy a sewing machine so I can do my hubby's shirts.. Thanks.

[@PiecesOfJenus]

Great job!

[@mobilegamesforever7736]

Awesome! Thanks for the video.

[@francischoo1812]

Good guide. Thanks.

[@ChristianMercadoAcevedo]

This is a great video! thanks

[@kajaeditz6427]

Very helpful bro

[@mb3080]

If you're taking in the sides would you do that beforehand? If so how much allowance would you leave so there's enough material for the darts?

[@marcchristiankowoll2889]

THANK YOU!

[@ExclusiveMusic1]

Absolutely amazing

[@tomb4165]

Nice tutorial but can't help but notice, as is being shown by the wearer in the video, the horizontal folds created on the back of the shirt by the armpits. Not to mention, you now appear to have a slim-fitting shirt but with fuller sleeves.

[@jerrettfeatherston7530]

Cool very useful thank you

[@ShankarRabha1111]

Its really helpful Thank you so much☺️🤗❤️

[@dannelalbert7111]

Can darts be successfully added to a shirt with side pleats on the back? Or is that something that should be avoided. Any advice for how to do it on a shirt like that?

[@mararoseify]

This is SO helpful thank you!

[@flugelblarghen]

So are darts fairly versatile? For instance making the two sides uneven or having a straight section in between the two diagonals depending on body shape

[@JoeDoe1]

Thank you fellas.

[@jackiesmith2801]

I want to do this to all of my shirts. I am a 55 year old woman who is the height and weight of a 12 yr old child. I am wondering why you couldn't just put the shirt, or other unlined garment on inside out and pin it up right on the inside? That's so cute you are ironing it on the floor. What ever works, right? Looks great!

[@romniyepez5206]

wow! Cool, Thank!

[@amberchaba1148]

Cool i love this; thanks so much

[@raefblack7906]

I don't know how to use a sewing machine. Could I use hemming tape?

[@hoodyk7342]

If Lewis reads these or if you could ask him, is there anyway to fix a loose knit sweater that was hung up and got stretched? i have an older one that uses to fit great but i hung it up because i was uneducated and now it it pretty loose. any tips?

[@AspiringGent]

If its full wool you can get it damp and lay it on a table and bunch up the area you want smaller and let it air dry in that position and it should get smaller. if it's not full wool you can cold wash it and throw it in the dryer and that should shrink it up. Don't put it in there for too long though.

[@hoodyk7342]

@@AspiringGent thank you for the info, ill give some things a try.

[@diasporaman5419]

That was awesome...thanks gents

[@Kam-Bogey]

Thank you! Exactly what I needed!!

[@brenttesterman3171]

Do you ever cut off the excess fabric and treat the unfinished end of the fabric, not to become frayed? I'm loving the content BIG TIME!!!!!!!

[@The_Kavalier]

Unless there's an untenable about of fabric I just leave it in. The first shirt I did cut it and it has slowly frayed more and more.

[@brenttesterman3171]

Thanks buddy boy! This video has given me enough information and confidence to attempt simple tailoring on my own. I'll keep you updated. Thanks again, and much success. I see big things for you ahead. Peace

[@Starch-Wreck]

The Kavalier you have a sewing machine. Why not use pinking shears or zig zag stitch the raw ends?

[@styzoom]

Is there a limit to dart tailoring, in other words, can a roomy regular sized shirt be tailored to an almost skinny fitting shirt?

[@krollic]

it's really only for the mid section/waist suppression. you can't do it too high or too low

[@Mas_Tun]

Depends on how much you have to take in. I've done it with a few shirts where I made 2 cm darts on each side of the front, and did 3 darts in the back totaling maybe 6 cm. They look fine. The problem is the wider the dart, the longer it has to be so the shirt won't look weird. Then the chest and back will be too tight.

[@styzoom]

@@Mas_Tun wouldn't cutting fabric from the sides not be more effective? Often the arms need a bit of slimming too.

[@Mas_Tun]

It is, but it's more time consuming. At least the way I taper shirts (I do french seams). Mine tend to just be baggy from below the chest.

[@AspiringGent]

Sjef darts shouldn’t be more then 2.5 inches total per dart. You’ll need to take it up the side at that point.

[@luxurreview]

Although I can see it, it gives it a bespoke look.

[@camo1986]

Wouldn't the methodology have to change a bit if the chest on the shirt fits but the waist area is billowy? How would I adjust the dart length to accommodate that?

[@The_Kavalier]

Yes, I'd start the dart 6-7 inches lower than this but I'd like Louis to weigh in.

[@AspiringGent]

Cary Cameron correction you can start the dart lower or take the shirt in on the side seams. Which would be another video to make soon.

[@SantosoWijaya]

Where the dart starts and ends (the pointy ends), the fabric isn't taken in much, if at all, in that horizontal region. So start and end the dart where the shirt already fits?

[@joshuamoser7603]

What was the point of marking out the 1inch out then connecting the top and bottom of the dart when you just followed the fold all the way down and didn’t follow the chalk line you made?

[@carpediem3593]

Great video, I am a new subscriber. I found you on the wallet video from modern man...… Now I am ready to dart all of my balloon shirts.

[@skygazer6898]

Awesome.

[@sweetpeasugarplum1237]

Is this the makeup guy? I have his pen concealer xx

[@javlam2226]

what model of sewing machine are you using? singer heavy duty, what else?, is it good for the hem on jeans? Thanks

[@djtblizzle]

Is there a way to “shrink” a collar? My shirt is a 17, but I’m closer to a 16. I have to buy bigger shirts because my arms are long, but my neck is thin in relation. Thanks

[@Mattmc23]

How do I do the inverse of this? Covid cushions hitting hard and these slim fits need to be standard now LOL