Airbrush Primer: Vallejo Surface Primer Vs Badger Stynylrez

In this video, Airbrush Primer: Vallejo Surface Primer Vs Badger Stynylrez, I'll tackle the debate that is raging between which of these two brands of primer sucks and which is the best primer you should use for the rest of your life. *Disclaimer*: these are just my opinions, and the video is meant to be a bit in fun so don't take it too seriously (although I'm serious about my final judgement about these primers).
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[@glovehandles]

It’s 2024 and I found this video because people are still saying the same things. Thanks for not being a fanboy about it and checking for the rest of us new to airbrushing.

[@TheMiniJunkie]

Cool :) in the end I largely have stuck with Vallejo Surface Primer in various colors.

[@MegaMinis74]

I've used both with no problems. People will argue just to argue.

[@Algebrodadio]

Especially on the internets.

[@CafeenMan]

NO! People DON'T argue just to argue!!

[@stephennoble2647]

Not true. People share different views on certain products, so that other people can then make an educated decision based on the information they've received. It's not arguing it's learning...

[@thomasw.bassett9550]

Haters gotta hate. I hate that.

[@mikehunt7857]

Right, because they aren't meat riding a product and saying only positive things, they must just be toxic people that like drama.... Its interesting how you're not allowed to have a negative opinion about anything without being labeled a "hater" or "toxic" etc. Its almost like some people think only one form of modeling exists and people don't have different needs/requirements for the products they use on their projects. I build model cars and I NEED a sandable primer (not something that sands ok if you're really delicate and don't look at it wrong) without issues. Primer is a tool and shouldn't be a headache.

[@bluedotdinosaur]

In my experience vallejo primer is fine on plastics, is durable, and creates a very, very smooth finish for painting over. However, its one big problem that can be significant is that it just isn't sandable. It's far too rubbery, even when cured. Sanding it will cause it to crack and flake off in chunks. Depending on your modeling methods and needs - as well as possibly repainting a section of a model later - this could be an issue. Stynylrez, whatever its other properties, sands extremely well after it has fully cured. It can be buffed and feather sanded at edges. This does make redoing part of a model very easy and seamless. Essentially if you're never going to sand your plastic model after priming, Vallejo is perfectly fine. Just be warned about sanding.

[@pawpawstew]

I experienced the very same thing with Vallejo primer, but I don't do gsming figures. I do scale models. I've tried Mission Models primer as well. Tamiya was my go-to in the past, but I had to get awsy from lacquers and enamels. Stynylrez is my go-to now and I love it.

[@christopherh4653]

That's a fair point. I usually use Vallejo Primer. But you are correct in that it will flake when sanding. Of course you can overcome this with some fine grit sandpaper, but you are not incorrect. Anyone who has issues with clogging or it falling off has other issues though. It's not Vallejo.

[@clarktrainham5435]

@@christopherh4653 I just one of Bobby Waldren vids where he discussed this flaking issue. Two possible solutions. Let the primer dry rock hard for a minimum of 24 hours, or spray a couple of light coats of Future/Pledge over the spots that need extra attention.

[@viper341]

Thanks for the info, based on this I just got some Stynylrez.

[@aquaticnstuff7666]

I just sanded some vallejo gloss black primer it was totally fine, there was no flaking or whatever. It sanded perfectly.

[@worldwarmini3919]

Great video. Vallejo primer is poly, so it hardens to a “eggshell” finish, which means it cannot be sanded, it’s designed that way.

[@GryphonArmorer]

I've been using Vallejo for almost two years now. On styrene and the soft "rubbery" plastics I've had nothing but problems with it adhering to the surface, except for maybe a couple times. I never used to wash the model parts prior to priming, now I have made it a habit. I've tried just about everything. Thinning it with my thinner, Vallejo thinner and both helped with the clogging issues but not with adherence. I've tried lightly scuffing the surface to no avail. I've found it works great on resin components/figures and the under side of bases and foam for action figure dioramas, but that's about it. I've tried all three colors purchased at different times from different vendors, but they all had the same effect. So I just recently picked up a bottle of Stynylrez and wow, what a difference. That stuff sticks to everything. I even shot it on some "old" styrene from the early 80's that I'm pretty sure has some mold release residue on it and it still stuck good. Like I said, I love Vallejo paint but, I will never use their surface primers ever again.

[@benjimlem1284]

Did you try another bottle of Vallejo primer? They have occasional dud bottle, plus if it freezes in transport it can go bad.

[@Supermonkeeman]

This has been my experience as well. Some colors of primer may not do well when applied with a brush, but I’ve never had any issues when using an airbrush.

[@richardc-ex7rt]

My experience with Vallejo primer is it's glass smooth as long as you run it at a higher psi than you would for paints. I use about 25-26 psi.

[@wilwil888]

I experienced frequent clogging with Vallejo. I use a mini compressor with max 30psi and 0.5mm airbrush, thinning and higher pressure will definitely help but the rubbery texture is not sandable.

[@youtubevanced4900]

Same. I'm going to get stynalres in hope it doesn't clog as much.

[@simi_ziggy]

I've used both for model kits - not minis. My biggest beef against the Vallejo is that it is not sandable as was already commented. It does seem to have a slightly rubbery feel to it. The Stynylrez primer feathers beautifully when sanded - which makes a big deal for my applications.

[@benjimlem1284]

What color did you use? I've recently started using an airbrush and even tho I have like few hours of expirience, black vallejo sprays like a charm, no issues what-so-ev-er. Grey regular and grey mecha color primers kinda suck - they don't really want to spray, but black works great, no issues.

[@pikimiki3956]

This argument comes out of scale modeling world, where tons of modellers (including myself) had problems with vallejo primer peeling off after using masking tape. Problem (it's not really problem) with Vallejo is that it dry quick to touch but it need long time to cure properly. But if you let Vallejo primer to cure at least 48h (i think it's also factory recommendation) before you aplay next paint, there should be no worry that will peel of, wile on other hand there are no problems with Badger. So at the end it's all abouth what are you painthing, If i would only paint figures i would be comfortable using Vallejo but since i'm also making models it's not a brainiac for me to use Badger, it cures faster, when it's cured it's much stronger and makes way supirier bond to different matirials.

[@berkeleygang1834]

You make a good point. Rubbing applies a shear force on the primer. Peeling masking tape applies a tensile force (even if you do like you should, and peel it back onto itself). If you look at ACC, it's much stronger in tension than shear. We also have to look at not only how the primer adheres to the model, but how subsequent coats (color, decals, clear) also will adhere to the primer. Finally, with all the different paints out there, are any of them attacking these primers, compromising the adhesion?

[@FredCheckers]

I've had the same issue. A lot of mini painters are used to being able to paint a couple hours after priming by rattle can. For that reason I do prefer Badger.

[@RogerVicki]

I’ve just started airbrushing and love the way Vallejo primer works and I’ve primed over 50 models in last few days I will be sticking to Vallejo

[@ralphrenzetti22]

I’ve used both. I do a lot of scratch-building with Evergreen styrene. I have always wet sanded 8 to 24 hrs after priming and the Vallejo rolled of under the 600 grit paper. Did not have that problem with Stynelrez.

[@Kaargl]

Tried airbrushing vallejo primer on some gw minis. Dried for 3 entire days, 72hrs. The primer came off when applying a wash with a soft brush. Consecutive tests on other pieces proved that it flaked off after contact with water. Washed off with a brush in water. Maybe they forgot to put polyurethane in the bottle I bought. Note, this was high gloss black. Will try a matte one but I might just go back to rattle can primers if the problem persists.

[@TiffanyPackard]

I use both primers myself and love them both. I have been using the Badger Stynlrez for much longer then the Vallejo. I have a few bottles that have never frozen of the Stynlrez and they are nearing six or seven years old and still shoot just fine. Good video and thanks for the info.

[@startledrat102]

Thanks for this! I never got good results with Vallejo primers (my fault) and I was surprised they would release something like that given the quality of their other products. However I boosted the PSI as you suggested and it worked great!

[@aidanmaldonado9917]

What psi and what needle? Cuz I am getting some sputters and textures

[@warc8us]

The problem with Stynylrez is if its been frozen at all before it gets to you or after it gets to you, it will clump up. And then it'll clog airbrushes no matter how big the needle and nozzle are. I made the mistake of ordering the stuff during the winter months and it must have shipped from the North on the way to me in Texas, because it was junk by the time it got to me. Massive dry tip, massive clogs, even when I tried to strain it and thin it. I would love to have access to a good acrylic primer....But in the meantime, I use Mr. Surfacer 1500 mixed 50/50 with lacquer thinner. It works fantastically, the best airbrush primer I've used to date. I make scale models in 1/32 or 1/35 scale, so I am putting down a lot of it. You just need to wear a respirator when you spray it, you need a spray booth or some kind of ventilation system, and you need harsher cleaners to get it out of your airbrush.

[@kirbydoom7688]

Thanks much for the demonstration. I'm just starting to get into airbrushing for minis, so this was really helpful for me to watch

[@soylencer]

I'm new to certain aspects of this hobby but not entirely. My recent trip over the internet while doing some research tells me that Vallejo products seem to need a little extra shakig and mixing. I wouldn't be surprised if there was a lot of user error here. As I'm replacing my old Apple barrel paints with better things, I invested $5 in some glass beads to use as agitators. I expect that will help me get ahead of some of these reddit complaints. An upside of getting into this now is that Vallejo is refreshed much of their hobby product line -- whether that is some of the formulas or simply the labeling -- it's easy for me to be sure that I'm getting product that has not been sitting in a sun-bleached paint rack for 8 years at a game shop.

[@luke_atthat]

Thank you very much. Short, sweet and precise video. It answer many questions I had on primer, I have Stynylrez. Very beginner painter... and I definitively know now that I have to adjust my pressure and do some trials!

[@williamfotiou7577]

Most people just want to hear themselves talk and/or sound authoritative. They are a joke. I have never had a problem with Vallejo and it is a fine primer. It produces a fine finish that is a great base for paint. As you said, I don’t know what people are doing to it. Great review.

[@kingtentacleau1805]

My milage with Vallejo white is it goes on well at first, but after the 2nd or 3rd model, begins to tip dry super fast, and gum up in the pot risking bits breaking away and clogging the brush. Have some Badger wating, will see how it performs by comparison. Vallejo needed to be thinned a little, and that helped it go on, and with the tip dry a little but became a big issue later, with sputtering and chunks ending up on my models during their second coat. And this was only painting 8 models. I feel to do a proper test you should have painted a small batch of models rather then one each, to see how it performs on a longer session.

[@brianphipps3199]

Spot... On!

[@66PHILB]

I just tried sanding an Airfix Severn Class Lifeboat hull which I sprayed with Vallejo primer 5 years ago (yes, years) and it immediately tore up under 800 grit wet n dry paper. The good news is the primer stripped off nicely with supermarket all-purpose cleaner. Vallejo's primer is great for coverage and a smooth finish but if you'll have to sand it, I'd advise using a different primer.

[@PatrickKend]

I love both of those primers. Never had a problem with either.

[@DeathMortarion]

I have used both of these as brush on primers, and the stynylrez seems tougher. I also prefer it's matte finish, the only thing I don't like is its seemingly potent smell. I got a sore throat and felt kind of off the night after using it on some hanomags, but I can't say for sure that was the cause. Just cause it's acrylic doesn't mean it's safe, urethane paints also tend to put off isocyanates but i'm not sure if these model primers do.

[@madMARTYNmarsh1981]

I've used both and I can't get either to work well, Vallejo peeled, Stynylrez flaked off. I recently tried AK interactive primer. It went on lovely, I thought I'd found my go to primer... it literally rubs off with my finger. I'm very areful in preparing my miniatures, I wash them with washing up liquid, a good rinse then put it in an ultrasonic cleaner to ensure the washing up liquid is out of the creases etc. I don't know what I'm doing wrong. Today I got some Pro-Acryl primer, I'm hoping this one just works because if not I'll have to go back to spray can and I hate those. I've got about £140 worth of primer in my cupboard, it's such a pain in the arse!

[@butchsbasementbuilds6828]

The problem with Valejo Primer is usually on larger kits. Even if you wash your kits and I do, Vallejo doesn't sand well. Also if you are working on a kit that you are going to mask over for paint Vallejo is bad about pulling off with the tape. I switched to Stynylrez problem solved.

[@1964wingman]

A bad painter will always blame the paint. I expect to be trolled over this comment and i don't give a shit. I have used both and had no problems. I put it down to the Badger fan boys for the complaints.

[@WalkerRileyMC]

That you 'don't give a shit' just proves that you refuse to believe anything other than your own views. Someone could put years of evidence down in front of you and you'll still refuse to believe it.

[@s7r49]

Now I see this video/comments. I have been trying to use the valejo on soft plastic models (hero quest) and have had a nightmare of peeling and reactivation even in some cases. I just switched to badger this weekend and it's working flawlessly. soooo much better and the paint sticks to it too

[@The901meister]

Coming from a background of painting real world autos, the problem with paint adhesion is a surface prep problem. If you wash and soak your models to remove mold release compounds you should have no problem with adhesion. I have been using Vallejo primers for many years with no problems. As with any airbrush painting you use a good airbrush(.3mm max), proper pressure(usually @20psi) and make several passes with a flash time in between coats. Always allow at least 24 hours of cure time for any primer. I have always thinned Vallejo primers to the same milk-like consistency as when using regular paints and have never sprayed any Vallejo paint including Model Air without some amount of thinner. Thick paint hides details and is a recipe for disaster. If you want to see good airbrush technique view some vids by Les Bursley.

[@Druss39]

Am a Vallejo user as well and don't understand the issues people have. But I have been using it for years. Once you work it out it is easy. Also I still have some that I brought about 8 years ago and it works fine. Just make sure to shake it well before use. Just don't understand the hate it gets.

[@aarne4294]

They need sell others

[@blomy67]

A great comparison and you made a very good point regarding shelf life . But I have always had issues with vallejo primer lifting when masking but never had the problem with Stynylrez .

[@davedogge2280]

Vallejo Surface primer is excellent a couple of drops of air flow improver into the primer cup and airbrush away

[@skinnerboxx1945]

Thank you for this - simple and concise without a ton of filler or un-needed content. I was already Subscribed but I dropped a Like - keep it up!

[@swdw973]

As for freezing. I tried a bottle of Army Painter primer. Was horrible. Tried running it through a filter and most of the pigment was chunky and gummy. At this point mot people would have complained the AP is junk primer. HOWEVER. I have seen the aftermath of acrylic paints being frozen, and that was exactly what the AP looked like. The store I'd bought if rom had received it right after a polar freeze had moved through while it was en route. SO in this case, it looks like it froze in shipping. Keep this in mind if you are a on line buyer of paint. DO NOT order it if the route it travels will have cold temps, especially below zero, while it's being shipped.

[@corkcamden9878]

You stated what I consider to be facts. I didn't think you were pretentious. I think people-such as myself-tend to rush into something without the proper study. I usually learn by screwing up, but I found by reseaching what thinners, flow improvers and so on have given people the best results, I get good results, too. After I learned about these additives, what they do and the proper proportions, my airbrushing improved and my frustration level bottomed out. Learn about your tools, what they do and what they cannot do and the results are generally very satisfactory. Good information, sir. Cheers! Cork

[@briangilgan]

My problem with Vallejo primer isn't that it doesn't adhere well enough, but that it doesn't sand very well. It has a tendency to tear, and the edges of the tearing are difficult to remove or hide. I don't have this problem with Stynylrez.

[@Donmegamuffin]

My only other experience other than Vallejo airbrush primer is with rattle-can spray primers/paints, and I find that Vallejo's airbrush primer compared the spray primers has had SIGNIFICANTLY easier time peeling and chipping, and much worse adhesion to the surface, but provided much better detail preservation and uniform coating thanks to the airbrush application... I want to see what Stynylrez is like in comparison to see what the fuss is about, but I imagine neither will be as good as rattle-can stuff :)

[@DeathMortarion]

This is true, just cause the rattle can stuff has solvents which bind the paint to the plastic. The airbrush primer is just water based polyurethane. Airbrush primer needs days to cure from my experience, 3 days minimum. Even then if you drop the figure or try to scrape it with your nail, anything where some force is applied then it will scrape off. I brush on primer to my models only cause I can no longer stand the fumes from rattle cans, after doing some research and myself feeling off after a spray session I decided to swear off em for good. Xylene is one of the major offenders I have found

[@garymurphy5133]

Sorry Guys, I build 1/48th and 1/32nd aircraft. So I have fairly large flat area that at times need sanding.I love Vallejo model air pant BUT their primer does not sand well,at allI have no probs sprayingIt might be ok for figures etc

[@01Bouwhuis]

I used the vallejo rattle can, very solid primer.

[@ja37d-34]

I use both on model airplanes, some very light grey Vallejo and a little draker grey UMP (Syynylrez). Works great. Vallejo takes a little longer to be able to sand it seems, but I leave both for a week if I need to really sand it heavy. (wings)

[@BennyCFD]

I've used Stynylrez and have no complaints. But one day I ran out and wanted to build this one model so I sprayed floor wax with whatever color I think it was grey. Used a blow dryer to make sure it was completely dry. It worked great and never went back. Floor wax is the modelers friend. It can be used as a basecoat, base as a primer (your color of choice), an intercoat, an additive for craft paints to make it flow better, to increase adhesion, and a gloss finish coat.

[@kmoore02809]

While Vallejo primer may work fine in this situation where you're applying it to figures, it fails badly in situations where masking and/or sanding is required.

[@Reapray]

Thanks for doing this video, I'm gonna pick up and try some of the Stynlrez, I like that more matte finish.

[@ReallyBigBadAndy76]

I have had a great experience with my black and brown Vallejo primer. White and gray have been a bit problematic, especially the white. It comes out a bit grainy. I haven’t tried anything else.

[@andrewchan1837]

Same thing mate vallejo black primer is awesome. But when it comes to grey and white i would use evo surfacer or mr surfacer.

[@polrudolf]

@@andrewchan1837 Same here. Black is not bad but when you pick any other color, it sucks...

[@Mumwaldee]

Thank you very much for this, I was fighting this primer for a few days and was about to chuck it all in the trash.

[@TheIcemanModdeler]

Only been using Duplicolor grey primer out of a spray can, using the airbrush mostly for base coats, metallics, varnishes and protective coats, usually keep the compressor at around 20 PSI.

[@nickbutler7935]

I use both products and have had no issues with either. If I have to rush a job after priming I may use a hairdryer to speed drying, and I always use a low tack masking tape a low tack masking tape.

[@jorey4565]

Work for years with vallejo black primer ,airbrushing on resin kit,metal,plastic..perfect finish ,dry very fast,zero orange peeling,smooth surface.. Important to clean the surface before spraying the primer..👍

[@jaybe2908]

I have both but I rate the Badger paint much higher, you can just whack it on thick as anything and it dries to the smoothest finish going, showing all detail.

[@trollpainterandson399]

I like both (I also use home improvement store spray cans). I am under the impression the vallejo is more readily available and is more common. I think that availability contributes to the online reputation in a few ways (at least with tabletop crowd). I would guess that vallejo is more often a first used primer by less experienced painters. More bad experiences with the whole AB priming process will therefore occur with vallejo, even if that is not the reason for difficulty. I often see people who have experience seeking out the badger product (and by have both more experience and realistic expectations). I think the scarcity also contributes to the reputation; it takes a little more effort to get, more exclusive, and you really want it to be great. I don't consider myself a great artist and use many brands and colors of paint. Some of the people I consider amazing artists restrict themselves to a very small selection of tools (i.e. 1 kind of primer, 1 "blue", etc) and that makes sense to me for someone who has put in the time to be consistent and sensitive to slight differences.

[@RamoArt]

That's an interesting theory and I think it's very likely that it contributes to the bad reputation. Some complaints don't fit in with that theory though, like people saying it used to be good and then they got a new bottle and it sucked.

[@javiergarcell3075]

I have used both primers on miniatures and resin model kits and both work well but Vallejo has issues. When I have primed with Vallejo black primer the paint has not rubbed off. What it has done is when using Tamyia masking tape on a project, once I was done and I pulled up the tape, the paint came up with it in certain spot. With Stynyrez I never had that issue. I still have some Vellejo primer and use it but avoid masking over it.

[@PyromancerRift]

Strange. Tamiya masking tape's adhesive is very very light.

[@javiergarcell3075]

@@PyromancerRift I know. When it happen to me I was surprised, but I went online and other youtubers had the same issue. What I do like about Vallejo is how well it sprays with little clogging.

[@johnm487]

@@javiergarcell3075 Same exact thing happened to me the other night using black Vallejo primer, Tamyia masking tape striped the primer off, despite letting it dry for 24+ hours.

[@chico_zombye]

Vallejo works wonderful and it's very durable. What Vallejo doesn't do right is being sanded. You can peel the primer if you sand it. It's a problem for me when doing big things because I usually sand>prime>sand>prime...etc. in order to get a perfect finish and Vallejo is not good for that. It's ridiculously amazing for figures in my experience but sanding it is a big no-no with that primer.

[@Alamn420]

You perfectly described the situation I have been in with white stynylrez. I keep asking myself if I just got a bad batch, but the possibility of it having been frozen before i got it makes perfect sense. Time to filter it....

[@greenmachineminis206]

I just did the same comparison. Both of these primers are my goto air brush primers. the only time the Vallejo ever ruined off on me was because I did not completely wash my model. I thought I had, it was a fluke that I missed a piece of it. Vallejo sprays out best at about 35 PSI as recommended. never clogged in my cheapo airbrush. I got some soldering trying each at a lower pressure. I have found that badger feels a bit harder to the touch when cured. Each one of them brushes on equally well with little to no obcuring of detail. This was a good video. I am still a fan and was not offended. lol.

[@richardhewitt6081]

Nice commentary - thank you. Well presented and no bias. Fairly new to airbrushing and your comments will be useful.

[@martyshobbyisland]

Personally I’ve had the odd small issue with the Vallejo grey primer but I have had the bottle a fair time but recently got the black and it’s amazing

[@tonymoto1188]

I think there are many who don't wash their models before painting or wait for paint to dry/cure.

[@DeathRiel.Atelier]

So I used chipping medium and it managed to humidify all paint layers below reaching to the primer and making the whole thing flake , not just the latest coat.. 😖

[@daviddillabough]

Vallejo mix 1:1 with Val airbrush thinner 25-30 Psi. I use a .35 needle. Not getting tip dry priming 5-10 models at a time. Smoothest prime I've ever had . great coverage. Would never go back to shaker can going on 10x too thick removing all fine detail.

[@markrayton6385]

I use stynlrez and ump here in the uk although I think it is the same stuff. I love it and have had no problems. Never used the vallejo so can’t comment but the problems I have read about vallejo primer is it peels but the main thing I read about it is it comes off when masking tape is removed. Maybe you could try a video on removing masking tape and then see what happens. Thanks for sharing this video.

[@timdodd3897]

Haven't tried either yet, but I like my Badger compressor and airbrush.

[@elmirBDS]

The worst I can say about vallejo primer is that you shouldn't use masking tape on it unless it's 100% (24hours+) cured. Other than that, it's just about perfect. If the primer sputters/splashes, it's a problem with the airbrush most likely, rather than the actual paint.

[@ericsainte290]

Try the MIG masking putty, should work a breeze -i use it to mask camouflages and 'weird' paint patterns with great success...

[@greenmachineminis206]

it even says it on the bottle to wait 24 hours before masking.

[@jacobdjurhuus300]

Try the primers on metal minis

[@SaschaUncia]

I also had trouble with my white stynylrez, the pigment had turned to gum at the bottom. The other two bottles that came with my three pack were fine. Grey one is so nice, if a bit dark.

[@BenCostaII]

Seeing your rubbing on the minis post brushing has me wondering if I got a lemon of a bottle. I use mine just as you did, straight out of the bottle. The Vallejo comes out the brush great, no issues, nothing. Even DAYS after, just the lightest scratch with a fingernail, let alone a hefty rubbing will bring the primer right up. I shake the heck out of my bottles too, and I’m not sure what was wrong. Going to try Stynylrez shortly, hoping my bottle of that works better.

[@TheMiniJunkie]

Weird - yeah mine sticks on so hard it’s actually very difficult to remove. Like when I try to strip minis, it does NOT want to come off. Now, that said I’m taking about HIPS plastic minis. Metal minis it’s considerably easier to remove.

[@splinter8353]

I've used many types of primers and love both of those, the only one that id say is bad is MIG AMMO Waterborne polymer

[@apoclypse]

Do you mean the Ammo Lucky Primer? Isn't that just Stynylrez with another name.

[@splinter8353]

@@apoclypse the waterborne polymer is completely different to the one shot, it been out a lot longer. If you don’t shake it for at least 5 minutes or put down very thin layers it won’t work and it’s very hard to get it to look even. One Shot Primer is excellent

[@jimb569]

I have had a few issues with the Vallejo lately, the black and the grey on metal miniatures. The black will sometimes not stick to the metal (separating shortly after contact - and I have washed the models with both joy and alcohol to no improvement) or will wipe off really easily, even while painting unless I preheat the model with a hair dryer. I believe the bottle is bad though, as is separates in the bottle with some sort of beige liquid settling to the bottom, so I added mixing balls and shake the crap out of it before hand. The grey just gets heavy and won't spray a fine mist, even with flow improver and or thinner. So I am going to try the badger. I am pretty sure the stuff I have are bad bottles, but I've heard good things about the badger, so I will give it a try.

[@adof7257]

Hi pal, most black primers are really great. Even water-thinned liquitex gesso. White is a problematic primer. I have both brands here. And stynylrez seems to separate with time. I had issues with frozen ones, but sometimes bottles get unusable after sitting in the corner for too long, no probs with vallejo. after some shaking it was ready to go.

[@PALguy329]

Yea i absolutely love the black vallejo primer but the white one i have nothing but issues with it. It either splatters or is just toooo thin. I have to do at least 3+ coats of it 😩😩😩

[@JJ-cf7nb]

Vallejo Hater checking in here. You missed a prime consideration in the quality of the primer. I'll agree that the Vallejo goes on fine and looks good. However it CANNOT take masking tape. It will lift off with the tape.

[@TheMiniJunkie]

J K you mean masking over the primer? Tamiya masking shouldn’t

[@JJ-cf7nb]

@@TheMiniJunkie Yeah. The Tamiya tape lifted it in big flakes as did some masking fluid I was using. I'd never had any trouble with the Tamiya tape (and have had no problems with it since then either). Maybe a bad or expired bottle of the Vallejo.

[@MaskedRiderChris]

I've been using the Vallejo primer for quite some time, now, only hand brushing it on as opposed to airbrushing it, and after letting it dry overnight, it works fine for me. So around 30-40 psi pressure to airbrush and we're good to go, then, yes?

[@spartan73]

always had trash results with vallejo. never had a single issue with Stynylrez in comparison, I'd recommend it every time

[@charlesfe]

I use both regularly and like both. I think people are using Flow Improver out of habit with Vallejo - and that needs considerably longer to cure because the additive.

[@Tombonzo]

FYI to all - Flow improver will also make it act more like a wash as well. Use a Primer thinner or as seen here in this vid, don’t really need to thin it at all?!!

[@charlesfe]

Yeah I'm thinking people are incorrectly using additives with these primers leading to the results people are posting in frustration about.

[@jonscott1]

I may have had a bad bottle of the black primer but it is almost like it's partially dried in the bottle and has lots of mini chunks in the paint which block my airbrush within minutes of using it which is rather annoying. The white and grey haven't been anywhere near as bad but the grey does clog a little more than regular paint.

[@wangruochuan]

Vallejo primer actually has bigger particle I believe. off all the primer I used, Vallejo grey primer clogs so many times in my life......in the end, I just dont buy Vallejo grey anymore. the black one actually works pretty good and I rarely clog on them.

[@wonderbreadmodelsandhistor1566]

Just the comparison I was looking for thank you

[@Babyknite]

In my opinion, I work with Vallejo Surface Primer as well. I feel that it is great for small models such as what I saw in your video. That being said I am a huge fan of building for example things such as a Battleships 1/350 in scale and with such large surface (Hull of the ship) if there were any sanding required the Vallejo does seem to peel which makes life very difficult. It is hard to explain, but I would assume if you were to sand a larger surface that using Vallejo Primer you may experience problems. As for Masking tape I've never had problems with the paint peeling etc. Only problem I have is with sanding, I would not recommend Vallejo if you KNOW for a fact that sanding will be a requirement for your model kit. I would very much suggest surface primer for smaller things as it does save money over time vs buying your traditional Spray canister.

[@Babyknite]

I would say I do love using Vallejo regardless but I'm selective on what I use it for! All small and fine things ive always used Vallejo. Large surface I currently still prefer using the typically "The Army Painter" brand especially if I am required to do some sanding work! I hope this can help some people out? but I don't disagree with you that Vallejo works fine!

[@brianphipps3199]

The culmination of comments is about %90 in agreement of my opinion. Small figurines? Perfect. Great product. It seems your only spraying for a minute or so. Go to a 1:25 model car or truck. Then get back to me. Tape it off for fine lines within 5min or 24hrs. Let us know how that goes. Vallejo just cannot stand up to it. You cannot sand Vallejo. Both you can do with stynylrez with ease and zero concern. The Vallejo sprays better imo. The stynylrez will tip dry twice as fast and my airbrush requires a complete breakdown and cleaning after stynylrez use. But I also think that's why it's adhesion and overall hardness and durability is far superior to Vallejo. The better and faster it adheres..... The more issues your going to have with tip dry and spraying. Nature of the beast. I'm a 30 year painter. You should never thin your primer. The only way I could get Vallejo to spray without spatter is to thin it substantially. Please do another demo on large scale using masking. I'd be interested to watch a start to finish coat by coat of the Vallejo unthinned. I REALLY want to know how to do it without thinning. Be able to sand it and tape it without issues. Then do stynylrez with the same process's. I think you'll change your opinion rather quickly. They both have their place. They both are good products for that particular place. But not in the same place.

[@ukiewolf]

thanks … very well presented and argued/demonstrated it all comes down to preferences

[@danielbelanger8966]

Vallejo is very good but when you need to sand it to correct something it doesn't do a good job

[@TinyRyno]

Could anyone tell me If the Vallejo is good with masking tape? I've been having a very difficult time finding paint/tape that won't result in peeled primer/paint

[@Dmorris556]

I've had no end to problems with Vallejo primer on pewter (Battletech and Reaper). I wash my minis in clean soapy water in a ultrasonic cleaner. Primer is un-thinned. Strait out of the bottle into the airbrush. While curing, with in 2-3 hours, it started to peel off. So I cleaned them again, stripped it, re-assembled, and re-primed, stripped, and re-primed. Less peeling the second time, but it cam off as soon as I handled them. Maybe a bad batch, but In my experience, Vallejo primer is dog shit when it comes to metal minis. Thing is, it worked fine on reaper plastic minis.

[@ctno3]

Wow that was a super thick coat of primer but great video you can see both are durable (esp with a coat that thick 😂)

[@stephennoble2647]

Find them both very poor. My two best primers would be Tamiya Fine Surface Primer or anything from Gunze/Mr Color. They provide a better finish and dry very quickly indeed..

[@dinkuserectus]

I couldn't agree more

[@shanedezorzi5800]

I have found that I have washed my miniatures well primed them and let cure 2 days looked great until you rub lightly with nail and it comes right off they are newer models from gw .I will stick to gw primers for they are stronger in my experience and why more durable

[@montlejohnbojangles8937]

I've literally never had a problem with Vallejo primer. You need to let them dry properly, but that's fine. As a cheap and effective acrylic primer it's brilliant. Now, that comes with the caveat that the gloss black primer absolutely *is* a pain in the ass to shoot, or at least by my experience.

[@TheLmiksche]

I dont think the primer is a problem... it comes more to people not cleaning their airbrushes, then the thicker stuff gets caught and clogs it....

[@joehough838]

Could the issue be 'Operator's timing and User Headspace'?

[@benjimlem1284]

I heard white primer from Vallejo is tragic, but that's just what I heard - when I was testing my grey primer I've let it dry 24 hours and then tried scratching it - with my thumb, with my nail and I really (and I mean REALLY) had to try for it to come off, and even then it only would chip a bit, not peel - I did have some problem with peeling, but I suspect that was either mould release or oils from my fingers, because after I started washing my sprues before priming the problem is gone. I heard good thing about stynylrez is that it can be sanded (unlike vallejo) but as a miniature painter I dont need to sand my minis anyway, so...

[@hollowpoint1057]

The issue is pressure. In my experience Vallejo Air paints require more pressure than I like to use for detail work. Not an issue for primer, but having to push PSI above 20 is a no go for me, and in my experience Vallejo doesn’t perform well below that. Disappointing considering the product is designed for airbrushing.

[@TheMiniJunkie]

Interesting - I haven't really had that issue.

[@lexzbuddy]

Vallejo is good, I have no idea what the issue is. I always dilute primer for airbrushing, I've never had any issues. I have used the other as Vallejo is just easier for me to get where I am. Welcome to the internet, people just repeat things that they read elsewhere with nothing to back it up or no experience themselves. Take everything with a grain of salt I'd say.

[@alexl.8748]

havent used vallejo but stynylrez is amazing thus far

[@thylange]

I have both and i prefer Vallejo primer. The most common complaint on Vallejo is that you cannot sand vallejo primer. I can do this but it is difficult to avoid the primer to flake off.

[@Flyboy2003]

The problem I ran into is when you try to sand the product. Vallejo tends to tear.

[@BRLaue]

Let it cure longer.

[@Flyboy2003]

@@BRLaue how many days?

[@BRLaue]

Cameron Corless Two.

[@Flyboy2003]

@@BRLaue I would rather have something that I don't have to wait so long.

[@ericb.davenport9762]

Very interesting. Thanks.

[@tabletopandwargames8382]

I use Vellejo too and it works pretty good.

[@argento1111]

I have both, and i like both, both spray very well.... BUT on AIRPLANES, where i need sanding, Vallejo is not good... Vallejo is not good for SANDING... i never tryied to sand Sninylrez myself, but i read its ok... anyway, i use them for Cockpits or figures which i dont need to sand.... for Airplanes surfaces, where i need sanding seams, etc, my primer of choice is Mr Surfacer 1200 or Finishing Surfacer 1500...

[@PennysPitstop]

I used to get spattering with vallejo white,.was advised to try stylerez. Never had a problem again. Years later still using stylerez however i wonder if it was down to my airbrush skills and i got better at the time i switched primers.

[@seanc8054]

yeah, every product will have it's fan boys, you can't escape consumer bias , i have only used the vallejo black and green primer, and i brushed them on just as an experiment (dont do that, it takes way to long to brush on primer omg) the only thing i didnt like was how shiny it dries, but i dont think that really matters since you are painting over it anyways, i actually have the most trouble from rattle can primers, this white kind i got like doesnt cure, i spray inside in the AC so it's nota humidity or temp problem, my rooms 68 degrees all year (dont freak out, i have a fume booth it works fantastically) but yeah, i put the white primer on, and leave it and a few hours later i start to paint on it and my fingers get primer on them and leave finger prints on the mini, i had to strip it off, it's weird

[@andreanelaroche5717]

What i see about online reviews about vellejo, is that if you are not working in an environment that is hot enough and not too humid, it might be tricky to let it dry and might react weirdly with humidity if it can not dry quick enough because of the tempreture. The reviews were all saying "if you are not canadian, this might be the best paint for you xD" i bought mine to prime MTG cards to make altereds as just a normal layer of acrylic might peel of if you rehydrate it with another layer of paint (which will happend and as you are usually working in really thin coats, it doesn't make a strong layer that won't peel off).

[@lenoks_de]

I don't have a problem with airbrushing the Vallejo ABP, but as you mentioned: They rub off easily. And many people are complaining in the comments under the official Vallejo ABP video about this exact problem.

[@lenoks_de]

Okay, I don't wanna be "That guy", but maybe you rubbed some Primer off... imgur.com/a/463hWK4

[@Tombonzo]

Max Wolff - I thought he said it didn’t rub off. And I don’t see it?

[@jnrmack]

vallejo recommend 15 to 20 lb pressure but no nozzle size indicated, i think if i was using on a pewter based miniature i would leave over night. stynylrez recommend a nozzle size of 4 upwards.

[@noahbodhi8657]

What about white? I have terrible experience with white primer for highlighting.

[@apoclypse]

If you work with plastic models where you have to sand dow parts after priming Vallejo is just harder to work with compared to Stynylrez. You can pretty much spray the Badger stuff like a spray can and it's dry and ready in 15 minutes while Vallejo recommends you let their's cure for 48 hours. With Badger I can prime, look at the model fix or sand down any issue and re-prime while Vallejo is still curing. You can't sand down or use tape on Vallejo without letting it cure. If all you are doing is priming minis, then pretty much any primer will work for that.