I 3D Printed "Viral" Tools So You Don't Have To...

[@thenextlayer]

Thanks for watching, friend! I'd love to hear what you thought of this video?

[@TA-8787]

Please less innuendo, otherwise great!

[@riba2233]

Your impact started smoking because it is a brushed tool, you should always add a bit more and go for the brushless version

[@BenWolkWeiss]

Agreed with the less innuendos. I'm not offended by them but I think they distract from the video with the quantity that were included and the asides that pointed them out. If you are going to make an innuendo, it should just be left to stand on its own otherwise it feels very forced and unnatural. Also, not digging the haircut. I think you need to go shorter on the top as you have a taller ratio face and the taller hair doesn't balance it out.

[@ragingroosevelt]

I'm curious what issues you ran into with the pastamatic. I've used it before and it has seemed to be flawless.

[@kevd7212]

I enjoyed the video, I always find myself remixing printable vices so I can use steel threaded rod in place of printable threads.

[@rodrigob]

Understanding which popular prints are worth our time or not is, in my view, a high value video proposition. (One hour of Next Layer testing something bad is thousands of hours of pain saved across the viewers, one hour of Next Layer having fun is opening the door for thousand of hours of viewers sharing the fun). Looking forward for the follow-up.

[@thenextlayer]

Yep, I like this video format, for sure. I get a lot of free filament, and I'm working on a recycler... so I'm happy to be the guinea pig for you guys :)

[@chuckm3520]

I agree. Reviews on what is / is not ready for prime time saves your audience lots of wasted time and filament.

[@redskyreconn744]

Totally agree, and the eloquent setup at the start clarifying that its not a slam but a true user experience critique

[@twithheldmwithheld8938]

Couldn't agree more. I love this format and topic.

[@melindarm1975]

Agree. I love this format

[@morgenkaffe]

I have printed the V spooler in only ABS+ followed the print instruction, and also follow the instructions of use. It just works GREAT, never had a single problem with the respooler, at any moment, and yes I do use it often. IMO the absolute best respooling system out there so far. It took me more than an hour to collect if fully and was no hazzle, with the great in dept instruction. Use some grease for the gears and you are all good. Just dont run it too fast with the electric screwdriver, when respooling. Have fun with your new V Spooler

[@thenextlayer]

Yep, it's great, but I beat the shit out of mine... need to rebuild and be more gentle.

[@Momofatts1]

I agree, it's the best Respooler on the interwebs!!! The electric motor remix is amazing as well

[@User_PC_Loadletter]

Do you think it would be durable enough in PETG?

[@morgenkaffe]

@@User_PC_Loadletter Yes absolutely, I just like to use ABS.

[@TheMNWolf]

As someone who frequently uses helping hands for soldering, I wouldn't recommend 3D printing one. You're really going to want arms with the strength that a metal core provides.

[@damagedspline]

I live at Yokneam, Israel and have 0 issues with PETG. I am using a modified Artillery SW X1. ASA on the other hand. required some additional modifications to my printer.

[@brucejohnson1264]

All of those complex filament respoolers are junk. I just printed a simple inverted cone holder that connects to a square drive. I stick that on a drill. Simple, fast, and it works.

[@LexxDesign3D]

Tall skinny prints, just set your volumetric flow to a much lower number so it prints slow and stable

[@SixOThree]

I'm looking for a soda can crusher (that doesn't suck). If you come across one, I'd appreciate a quick video!

[@adrianusgerrit7661]

It is three months since the last item about affordable filament recycling which interested me highly. Has this idea died a horrible death? I did have my reservations on the construction of the frame, but by now I presumed you would have found a capable mechanical engineer.

[@mistyclan5559]

Love this

[@Youpuber]

Hi! I am the designer of the Solder Scroll. Thanks for featuring my design! The tolerances should work with most well-tuned printers. Removing the seam with a small file on the inside of the gears should help as well. Otherwise increase the gear size with a few percent. Hope that helps!

[@thenextlayer]

Thanks for the info. After some harsh rubbing (giggity), I got it working much better :)

[@hellterminator]

I don't want to come off negatively, but what is the purpose of the Solder Scroll? From the introduction in the video, it first sounded like it was supposed to free up a hand, but upon closer inspection, that doesn't seem to be the case, so what's the advantage over just holding the solder between your fingers? If anything, holding the solder directly only requires two fingers, leaving three for holding wires/components/board in place.

[@maticz3923]

Printed your model in PLA on bambulabs P1S Works great!

[@Blechdoese]

I printed your design 3 times in PLA and PETG. I had to use a drill to get the hole size correct for the gears. But after that it works great.

[@qh_5]

I don't usually comment on KZbin or give reviews, but I have to say that I printed your model today on my P1S, and it worked perfectly on the first try! (No lubricant applied) I actually told myself this is one of the most useful things I've 3D printed. It's unfortunate that it didn't work in your video, but I guess you can't win them all.😂

[@rickmontzka7506]

I'd watch another video on 3D printed tools. One trick I use with threads (or similar) is baking soda and water. Get the thread wet. Sprinkle a little baking soda on the wetness to form a paste. Try threading it together like cutting threads - forward a little then back it off and try again. The baking soda acts like a polishing grit and it seems to leave a film that is a little slippery. Rinse the parts clean when the threads are working better. There's my 2 cents worth of advice related to 3D printed threads.

[@br3nz3l]

Good one. Will try this.

[@ashlandwest1647]

@@rickmontzka7506 this is brilliant. Thanks for the tip!

[@DrLesterTheSmith]

I want to expound what @rodrigob said. Printer reviews are great but I'm pretty much set on which brand I trust. Reviewing print designs, however, is really informative and interesting. Reviewing tools also gives a great justification for 3D printing in general. Explaining how you adjusted some designs to make them work is also useful for viewers. I think this would be a great niche for you and great content for viewers/followers.

[@thenextlayer]

Hey, thanks for the awesome comment! I'm thrilled you enjoyed my content. I'll definitely look into exploring print designs and tools more. Cheers!

[@justamember24]

Yes! I have several prints I’ve held off on because we don’t know how to “remix” them yet. Just last night I was looking at soda can dispensers, but none would fit my mini fridge AND American sized cans.

[@TheOfficialOriginalChad]

Anything with threads should be printed horizontally. If you don’t like supports, then just drop a few mm of the threads under the build plate and it will work just fine. Think about it: tightening a bolt stretches it. If you print vertically, that means the force is pulling the layers apart.

[@the_void856]

@@TheOfficialOriginalChad The other idea is to actually make not a few mm below the bed but fully design the bolts to be flat for around 1/3 of their diameter. They work really well at least for me, being using them for a while now and none of them broke, though I'm also using a pretty deeply cut threads.

[@TheOfficialOriginalChad]

@@the_void856 agreed, but I’m talking about printing, not designing.

[@RobertONeillPhotos]

another idea for reenforcing is 3d printing threads is using threaded rod. the threaded rod is just screwed into the center. it acts like to metal center of the plastic. for something like the vice it would be better to mount a nut and use larger threaded rod. it can be useful to 3d print 10mm custom pitch threads. the screw a M4 shaft to hold it together.

[@MaxFenix8k]

It's looks like most of your issues is user error and lack of how to use a 3d printer xD

[@epicjosh0]

I’m torn. I love the channel and have been subscribed for a while. But he said if we subscribe there will be less dirty jokes. But I like the dirty jokes. So now I don’t know what to do.

[@thenextlayer]

More dirty jokes it is!

[@schmiddy8433]

I noticed in a bunch of your bambu lab timelapses you have parts fail from random threads flying off of it from the infill. I have found that this is from having my max flowrate set too high. At high speeds the plastic rather than flowing out to the sides seems to expand and bunch up behind the toolpath of the nozzle meaning when the nozzle comes back it smacks them out of place, so this could also just be infill print speed too high. I'm guessing that the nozzle tip is just too narrow on BL printers to really properly spread the plastic out. This drove me nuts because I get insane results on most flowrate test prints, up to 20mm3/s with PETG, but in reality i find that real prints fail often at this speed. As soon as i set my flowrate down to 15mm3/s everything prints perfectly i haven't had a problem since for the past 200 print hours. For dimensional accuracy I found that inner/outer/inner works best. This means the inner-most wall prints first, then the outer wall, then the 'infill' walls get printed. This has been super accurate for me. I also generally recommend when printing long tall objects to just split it up into multiple prints. It's just too risky to print them at the same time. Don't bother respooling cardboard spools. Just put electrical tape on the edges. I've had zero failures in my AMS with that hack.

[@chriswisneski6071]

Some cardboard spools come with burnished edges to address this problem. Some brands that do this actually work reliably out of the box in the AMS, aside from occasional issues with having to add weight when the spool is low on filament.

[@FirechickenExpress]

Yea, all my elegoo rapid petg is coming with sealed cardboard edges. Works great til it's too light. Just be sure the spool is round if amazon sent it. I had 1 completely birdsnest itself cause the spool was squished and jumping in the ams.

[@anthonylong5870]

Bambu printers are VERY widely known to have issues with tall prints, especially thin ones....I never trust my Bambu on any kind of tall print. Its why i bought a Flashforge 5M

[@jamesperreault6800]

Hey, awesome tip. I have to try that. I'm new to 3d Printing. I was getting okay print results with "normal" rate print speed, but I would often have issues with buildup on the print nozzle. Silent mode worked almost flawlessly. Sport and Insane modes .... always resulted in spaghetti. I've probably gone through 20 KG of PETG filament, so I'm still learning. But I do appreciate the knowledge. Again Thank you.

[@schmiddy8433]

@@jamesperreault6800 if you have nozzle build up lower your flow rate/extrusion multiplier by 0.01 each print until it doesn't happen anymore. I have mine set to about 0.94 and I get zero buildup and isn't under extruded at all.

[@Chrissi33004]

14:03 how does a 3D printing channel with 130k subs not know how to print slightly challanging models?

[@AndrewAHayes]

I printed a puller tool from Makerworld but the thread on the main screw did not have a start which made screwing it in to the frame impossible, the designer claimed he had no issues screwing it in, I took a closer look at the design, I was right there is no way this will work. There is no photograph of the printed tool which normally puts me off printing the file, however I could not find a puller tool anywhere else and so I took a chance. I asked the designer to post the photo of his printed puller that he claimed the bolt screwed in, as expected no photo was uploaded!

[@JeronimoStilton14]

Just file a chamfer onto it

[@RobertONeillPhotos]

It is a big clue if all they post is screen shots. I accept some screen shots to show details. but real is really better.

[@ultramegax]

Gotta be honest... I question whether some of these print/tool fails are user error. I've used the Pastamatic Filament Spool Winder for months and it still works great. Super clever design and super reliable. And that's with PLA+. If I have to reprint it at some point, I'll do the gears in nylon. But no issues yet. I'm also not sure why you thought an impact driver would be the tool to use for the respooler. But at least you're honest about your mistakes! I really appreciate that!

[@ChippWalters]

Yes, I have to concur. There are several what I consider to be basic mistakes I saw. There's no reason to ever print out a screw vertically as it considerably weakens the strength of the threads. Hacking together parts by drilling them and using soldering irons certainly doesn't seem like the stuff of smart reviews. Why not just reprint it with an adjustment? I also have the pastamatic and have used it dozens of times without issue. It just works. You might try that. I also might mention that when I'm printing out other people's projects that have fine tolerances, I typically try and use Bambu filament as the printer is tuned specifically for the filament. Furthermore, PLA is just fine if you're not going to have it outdoors and you just need a strong rigid tool.

[@Izmirization]

This dude printed a device powered by power tools with some fufu glitter PLA and then blamed it breaking on the engineers. This was a really poor review of a tool I would like to know more about being a pastamatic user myself

[@NonJohns]

it was only there for a frame but in the video he mentions that he got it working i do think ease of access is part of whether or not a print is worth someone's time if you have the know how to trouble shoot a print then you could probably design and fix a lot of these as well

[@noanyobiseniss7462]

Yeah, I just added this guy to the block list, immature commentary with fluff vids and lack of any skills and/or intelligence are a losing formula in my opinion.

[@DDizzy1SHORTS]

in all honesty just get the amazon basics ratcheting screwdriver over LTT, it's like $20 usd lmao.

[@meanman6992]

A lot of you guys need to learn the techniques the 3D printed firearms makers use and apply them to your mechanical projects for strength and durability regardless of your opinions on home made firearms. Also cardboard spools for high heat filaments are a GOOD thing as it means you can dry them at higher temps that most of the polymer spools can’t withstand.

[@thenextlayer]

Good points.

[@gloriousapplebees]

Do you have any insight into what techniques they use? I've seen quite a bit of content but I only ever see videos on use and durability, not on the fabrication. I haven't done a lot of research though, hoping you can shorten that process lol. Thanks

[@yourlocaltoad5102]

I base most of my printing related choices (which printer I got, which filaments and which settings I use) on recommendations from the 3D2A people. If they trust the materials and settings they use to withstand all the stress that a gun has to endure, then those settings will definitely allow me to print a robust little watering can or bird house.

[@TheOtherPlayer]

@@gloriousapplebees being super mindful of printing orientation, annealing, and knowing when to use metal hardware are pretty key for some applications

[@DarrenGerbrandt]

unless the glue holding the cardboard spool together lets go because of the heat in a dehydrator. Not fun I tell you, managed to respool most of it but what a pita, now I put a clamp on my cardboard spools to make sure they stay together in the dehydrator.

[@birello36]

Regardless V-Roller, print plastic insert ("Handle-to-Drill Adaptor (Strong)", see files) for your drill. It doesnt strip anything. I also stripped like 5 of drill atachments before realizing metal on plastic doesnt work.. Print "Quiet Roller for V-Spooler" - it's a bottom rollers with TPU rings, so it makes it quiter

[@Momofatts1]

The remix that adds the electric motors is amazing. Best Respooler I've printed.

[@the_rc_pilots]

אני בדיוק קניתי את ה-a1 combo אבל ראיתי מלאה סרטונים אבל אפשר טיפה טיפים ודגמים טובים בבקשה?? אה וראיתי גם את הסרטון שלך וממליץ לך להדפיס את ה-airless basketball עם ה-flashforge flexible pla

[@andreapalazzi670]

In my still short experience in 3D printing, and with a background in mechanical engineering, I feel like most of the free designs out there are just like "this is a great idea, let's do it", but then it's never tested or never revised after testing.

[@digitalsparky]

Flexible Hose: What about adding 4 magnets into the base, that way you don't have to weigh it down as much, it'll stay stable, and you don't have to clamp it to a table, you can use any magnetic surface.

[@MarcoTedaldi]

@@digitalsparky that's a good idea as long as you're using it on ferromagnetic surfaces. Weighted down it works nicely on aluminium and wood too...

[@nikkolaus]

This happened to me yesterday..... took two hours to print a rose shaped ring box with a 3D printed spring in it... you had to pause the print midway thru and install the spring which had already been printed ... the instructions had no indication as to which direction the spring was supposed to go, even though you could clearly see one side had a curve and one side did not... there were no photos of it, and there was nothing in the written description about it other than the need for a Pause. But after printing it, the spring worldnt compress, because the part was backwards. And with the pause midway thru the print, it was sealed in,..... so, I had to spend More filament AND , 2 hours EXTRA to get a working model and had to trash the first one completely

[@Nutrafin-3D]

I keep seeing respoolers come up in videos and sites. What is the purpose? Why change spools?

[@henrik.norberg]

Subscribe for less dirty yokes? So you want me to unsubscribe for more? 😂

[@thenextlayer]

I hear you loud and clear. MOAR JOKES!

[@PhilipThonbo]

Threads needs to be printed in 45 degrees to distribute force over multiple layers

[@ScytheNoire]

Designs should use metal hardware whenever possible, just much better than plastic. Can also use wood parts, such as for dowels, they are common enough, and stronger. I do think you have to print things in the right material, too many people just use PLA, which is often the worst choice, and it's always best to print mechanical devices in PETG or better yet ABS/ASA.

[@Jwmbike14]

Havent gotten past the first tool, which was the flexible vacuum hose. However, when I saw your foot mount to flat mount to to table with weight, I immediately noticed you could syphon off of the vacuum line and haf the foot "suck" its self down to a table, so long as its wood, plastic, metal, etc.

[@T00LF00L]

Dude forget re-spooling!! Use the simplest 3mm rings that only clip on the spools’ circumference. 👍🏻 Good video! 🙂

[@thenextlayer]

They break after no time, though... But yeah, maybe I should. I have a ton of them.

[@T00LF00L]

@@thenextlayer yeah but they’re cheap & fast to print again! 🙂

[@remotepinecone]

use linear encoders for position sensing like ALL paper printers you don't need stops don't have to worryabout belt stretch etc. I want to make one at this point as all printers on the market are terrible rip offs.

[@Paradox460_yt]

I print a lot with PETG, and the stringing is something you get used to. Its easy enough to clean up, however, just run a low temperature lighter, like a bic, over the part quickly. All the strings will either fall off or curl up right next to the part, where a deburring tool can pop em off easily

[@tavelkyosoba]

Coming from the forbidden 3d2a side, gotta say these designs are hilariously half baked lmao. None of these should have been released, do these designers even print prototypes?

[@Mildly_Amused]

I saw the parts of the pastamatic spooler in your filament recycle bin. Mine has worked flawlessly since I printed and assembled it last year. I eventually added the 3kg spool optional remix and mounted it to a piece of scrap wood. The only addition I'm going to add is a TPU brake with adjustable tension for the source spool. I wonder what made you toss yours out?

[@thenextlayer]

You nailed it - the lack of a brake... spools spun out of control. Also, it was a hassle to move around without dis-assembling.

[@TS_Mind_Swept]

I've never known why people like to "re-spool" filament, I always just keep them on the original spools and have never run into issues 🤷🏿‍♀️ I did design a filament spool for a spoolless roll I got, but I just made it to slide inside the existing cardboard core it already had Also someone had a lot of Giggity fun on this one Keepo

[@JasGawera]

Newbie question: why would you want to respool filament?

[@themacbookgamer]

5:05 I've given up on printing PETG until I can get a filament dryer because printing in 50%+ humidity is just not working

[@TheRogueBro]

Have you looked into making a filament dry box? I store all my filament in a sealed container with desiccant. Tons of really good ones out there using cereal containers and running a PTFE tube right out of them so the filament never leaves the "dry" space.

[@thenextlayer]

Pfff imagine how I feel at 75%. GOD HATES PETG.

[@AmixLiark]

What type of nozzle do you use?

[@AmixLiark]

I use a diamond back nozzle and i realized thats a really bad nozzle to use for PETG because it has so much surface area to contact the PETG while it's being extruded onto the print. It causes the petg to grip the nozzle, drag along the print and curl up the back side of the nozzle. A nozzle with a very thin tip like a standard V6 brass nozzle would be more ideal. PETG doesn't like to stick to itself when there is a source of heat so it is best not to give it an easy heat source to collect on. It's also really bad at bed adhesion on corners which can come off the bed and snag your extruder causing layer shifts. It's best to combat this by using the "do not cross perimeters" option so you nozzle can't snag the edge of the print amd use large brims on the corners.

[@ethancohen6005]

Sunlu s4. It is wonderful and there is a deal with a free spool of pla going on right now

[@marcor6403]

This is a great video, thank you! I you want to hear my 2 cents; I have a good experience of soaking petg in car oil over night (after printing of course) when I use it for moving parts. I always try to print load bearing pins horizontally for strength but this can be hard with some models when the pin is attached and/or may require support for the rest of the part.

[@Dragoninja833]

Using a drill for the filament re-spooler is NUTS. Yes, that's an option, but I would argue it's a bad one. Drills are powerful and fast. Any friction created by bad tolerances or the layers in the print, rubbing on other layers, is going to create heat. Obviously, heat is the death of plastic. If it doesn't melt it, it will make it brittle. Go nice and slow, you won't tear up your rods or screw up her holes nearly as much. ;) Slow is smooth, and smooth is fast! Also, use plenty of lubrication. ;)))))) Actually, any bit of a 3d print that interacts with another print, should be lubricated. Sanding the mating surface of the print will help to smooth out the first layer, too! It's a lot of post-processing... but like any project, prep work is the key to success!

[@thecraftylarder6943]

Are you sure most of this isn’t due to user error and printer setup? To me, most of your prints looks really janky with tons of layer lines and other weird stuff.

[@menahahnalie8098]

Yeah, this guy need to stop making videos about 3d printing. i have a stock ender 3 and I can print all of these perfectly and in much better quality. he has high end printers and still manages to make them look bad and not work. This is 100% user error.

[@TimeeJustin]

Commenting for engagement! Keep up the grind man. You are doing great.

[@Airsoftkid367]

I had a feeling that you lived in Israel because once I saw you go on a website that said you need to pay with shekel (pls do not turn this into a fight about Israel)

[@Airsoftkid367]

Omg thanks for ❤️ my comment (hopefully you are doing well over in Israel right now ❤️🇮🇱❤️🇮🇱❤️🇮🇱❤️🇮🇱)

[@DejitaruJin]

Preemptive warning about the "helping hands" models: The tolerance issue you had with the vacuum tube pieces scales _exponentially_ as those pieces get smaller.

[@outlierforlife]

Why are you re- spooling the cardboard spindles? just put some 3-D printable edges on them..

[@outlierforlife]

All of the sovol filament I kept getting from Amazon had flat spots that would jam their dehydrator.. not cool..

[@outlierforlife]

I went through six or seven rubber band guns before I found a set that actually functioned as intended.. there’s so many bad designs out there. These contests produce a lot of results not always the best.

[@leonardosestari5951]

I've had more luck printing long objects when i print them one at a time, since the print head doesn't have to jump from one to another. That prevents it from bumping stuff and knocking them over. Maybe that makes some of these prints worth it to try again.

[@williecat316]

I printed the Solder Scroll, and it worked flawlessly for me on the first attempt. I'm sorry it didn't work out for you, but it was game changer for this novice solderer.

[@thenextlayer]

Got mine working with some abuse!!

[@Emin3X]

Personally made that solder extruder, and luckly for me it works without any issues after printing everything once. Osed it also only once, but it's soooo much better than handling too close to hot solder with bare hands

[@thenextlayer]

I put a text title showing htat I did get it working after recording the video, and it does work now. Just took some time to break it in. Giggity.

[@Emin3X]

@@thenextlayer oh, didn't see that text for some reason - good it works for you too :)

[@Wimmle]

The LTT screwdriver is by far one the best screwdrivers I've ever used it's impressive and it's hard to explain how good it is without using it.

[@TimeeJustin]

If subbing gets fewer dirty jokes then I guess I’m unsubscribing

[@thenextlayer]

Noted!

[@adroitredtiger]

LTT print... you should turn on fuzzy skin for a comfortable grip and hand feel

[@HorizonMakes]

Have you used the featherboard? Does it do what it says on the tin properly? Does it shatter after one use? You haven't really shown using it while ripping wood

[@thenextlayer]

I need to get nuts that fit properly!

[@jerrymacvaldosta]

pencils! For cost affective and who cares when you loose one, go to your local golf course, look for a box of small score keepers pencils. Cheap work great and disposable (even if not intended).

[@josh-3d-wd3ct]

I enjoy this video. Inspires me to further my own designs and make sure they're easy to print and function smoothly.

[@filiepmaes9071]

Great video, looking forward for the follow-up.

[@nickfury1279]

I’ve printed two of the solder scrolls so far. One on my modified Ender 3 V2, and another more recently on my upgraded FYSETC Prusa MK3S clone (by upgraded I mean I swapped out parts like the rods, bearings, and hot end, among other parts, for genuine ones from Prusa). Came out better quality on the Prusa, but the one I printed on my Ender 3 V2 works very well too

[@versus023]

having more people in the hobby is a two edge sword/knife in my opinion. It means yes, more cool model to print, but exponentially more ''garbage'' model too. I feel like people are rushing to release model just to get more reward. I've rencently starte using maker world to download model, but I feel its only remixes and or same model from printables stolen and shared by another person.

[@Iisakki3000]

Also evidenced by the amount of projects that the designer didn't even test print before releasing the models. Yes I understand sometimes it can benefit others to publish the project you'll neved finish because you lost interest, but you should make clear that it's work in progress so you don't waste others time 😅

[@JeronimoStilton14]

@@Iisakki3000 yeah I’ve had issues with that but my biggest pet peave is the criminally low amount of info included on so many bios. I printed a spinning honeycomb tattoo ink holder for a friend, no dimension, no instructions on assembly, no response to questions on printables. Turned out it didn’t seem to even have the holes sized to any bottle size I could find, so now I’m printing inserts. I think we need a move towards some format that allows for better parametric modeling, whether that be included part files or a move to Scad (gross).

[@JayBenOh]

That was a great video! I would love to see more in this direction. It's informative, conveys common errors in design and execution. I felt very entertained (and slightly horny)!

[@BOTmaster15]

Ohnestly why it is so wired that screw printed upright breaks. Have anyone tried to print it I dunno horizontal maybe? Cut it so it would be more flat first ffs.

[@TheMNWolf]

I've been wondering lately about adding a wipe tower to tall, thin prints, to give the layer time to cool before going over it again. I think it would also help with overextrusion bulges.

[@WhoWatchesVideos]

I think the innuendo would have been much more fun and snappy if you cut the cutaways out.

[@thenextlayer]

Ok I’ll try it hehe

[@camsoup101]

It looks like you're using way too little infill for a lot of structural parts. That's probably the main reason you're having issues with pins and screws. Those really need to be at basically 100%.The gun community has really proven just how strong and robust 3D printing can be. It needs to be transferred over to other aspects of it as well.

[@NiSE_Rafter]

Agreed. Doesn't look like slicer settings are thought out in general just a hit go and pray approach. I've printed tall thin shafts on an ender 3 without issue so his fancy bambu should be able to do it too.

[@Jolly_Green23]

The solder scroll was flawless for me, but I did print the left-handed remix.

[@thenextlayer]

After working it a while, it got better :)

[@ericolofsson]

Flawless for me too. Printed the normal one on a shitty v1 ender 3 but its well calibrated.

[@RaySchrantz]

You take that back about PETG! It's a billion times better than all the PLA crap everyone uses and far easier to print than ASA/ABS and has no fumes. It's malleable, strong, and comes in the most colors next to PLA, which is so freaking unfair.

[@krisCrashTV]

I hear fuzzy skin is good for handle grip, and that would hide some of the model imperfections. But I've brought screwdrivers like that in any old hardware store for cheap so really wouldn't bother printing. Handy expansion parts for it, sure. But I think it's a good thing the main parts are injection cast or metal for strength too. I make my models in blender, and I COULD share the blender files if people want to export them at a higher subdiv level

[@BLBlackDragon]

I get that PLA is more environmentally friendly than ASA, but please.... Use engineering grade materials for engineering grade applications. Nice video. Thanks for all the hard work.

[@SianaGearz]

I don't get the solder scroll? It occupies your whole hand doesn't it. And you only get at most two of those. I need both of my hands, one to manipulate whatever i'm soldering and the other the iron, but i don't need a whole hand to feed the solder, any two unoccupied fingers can do it, which... i know that's an advanced skill, but even if i didn't have it, i still don't see how i could find this tool helpful. I am looking for a tool to help with the hand shortage when soldering which is actually easy to use and recommend to friends who are new at soldering. Just because i can do finger acrobatics doesn't mean i necessarily want to, and some days are worse than others, sometimes everything just falls out of my hands repeatedly and a little help won't go amiss. The paste/flux extruder is almost great but not quite right for me. The problem is that the accumulated pressure will cause a little bit to ooze for the next eternity, and if you cap your flux it'll just find a way to make a mess anyway, i'd love a way to relieve the pressure, basically retraction feature. To that end i don't use these pastes as shipped, i fill them in my own syringes with a normal plunger which i can pull back when i'm done. But i don't love those plungers either. This might give me some ideas, like, what if the screw was in two parts (making it easier to print as well) and you would just put it around the existing plunger. I do think testing 3D printed tools to discover design successes and deficiencies and avoid producing waste is a great angle.

[@DarrenLynch-p6k]

I rarely comment on KZbin (mainly because I tend to watch on a smart TV) but anyhow, thank you so much for emphasising the usefulness of uploading the .STEP files! So many times I've gone to the files section and just gone... oh man! Sometimes, a remix of a file that had step files were uploaded as .stl's, what is this? Anyway, once we get over that, maybe we can then look at broken .step files, just when you think, yes, a .step, you upload it to OnShape and go... nooooo... I need to fix it first! Awesome content, thanks!

[@jaredwellman1523]

I refer to PETG as "The Devil's Filament". One day it's great...the next it's awful. Why do you hate us so much PETG?

[@cilismoniker7322]

You might have better luck with using scarfed joints to get rid of seams on screws. Sort of a new feature on Orca/Bambu slicers. You can also make them less likely to bind by printing them sideways. When sideways, slice off the top and bottom face so it's an I shaped screw instead of an O shape. The flats wont hurt the performance much at all but will greatly increase their ease of use and likelihood of not warping.

[@TheCrookedMenagerie]

I liked the solder scroll I think I used about 0.05 or 0.07 compensation on my solder scroll print on my Bambu using turned overture PLA I might retry in PETG to boost the heat resistance

[@gurtelem3586]

I actually don't leave the house without the LTT screwdriver. And it's not like I work at something that needs a screwdriver. I'm a programmer. Still, it's literally always in my bag and I love it

[@kadeschramm3308]

I would think that printing the drive shaft with a hex head like a bolt and use a 6 point socket would give better contact and stop it from stripping. Also, on the guide bars on the vice, could you use hex shaped rods vs round? You would also be able to print these horizontal vs vertical to get the strength from the layer direction. P.S. Don't get rid of the jokes.

[@Smokinjoewhite]

Honestly, I have found my old MK3, enders and my SV06 print far more solid parts, simply because they print slower and have better layer adhesion as a result. My P1S is brilliant up to about 50% of standard speeds, so pretty much silent mode. Anything faster and parts just aren't strong enough for my liking. I would rather a solid useful part in twice the time than a part that immediately breaks when it's assembled or used. Damp materials or materials that have been dehydrated repeatedly will also cause brittleness and adhesion issues, so depending on where you are a good sealed storage unit can be essential. I use 60 litre airtight tubs for my opened filament and have a sealable inlet and outlet I plug an old food dehydrator into and every month or so or when the humidity raises above about 30% in the box I will dehydrate it for a few hours. I have had near perfect print quality and way stronger parts since taking better care of my filament. Just don't overdo the drying, only do it if you notice a problem, too many drying cycles will harm your filament eventually. I printed 4 solder scrollers and gave away 2, have lead solder (good old vintage solder from the 80's) on one and lead free on the other and they were all perfect, I think I printed them on the sv06, I just find that printer to be the most dimensionally accurate I have, 0.1mm clearances are no problem with it and I can't say the same for my P1s that starts to bind at .15 no matter what settings I use or calibration I do.

[@boqs]

Thanks for a great video. I printed a similar vice, but I used a tap and die to remove the seam for the screws, and used alot of lube. Mine works great, but I did also use a different design, so might have also just be that. Steel screws would be better though, but its not always easy for someone to cut them to an exact size without a.... vice... This video format can be a great series. Looking forward to the next video for functional 3dprinting models!

[@justbasil7308]

Sovol printers are great but jesus they don't have any customer support and I never suggest ever getting parts directly from them. They are useless when it comes to communicating and ship so slooooowly. I got the svo6 plus and the brass bit broke for some reason. Had to replace and they fucked around for ages

[@Scab5679]

video is interesting but your jokes are a pain. You stick on the sexual topic that either works natural or feels forced. It's all forced here. Check This Old Tony for how it feels natural if you're unsure. For a starter, this kind of jokes are your ONLY kind of jokes…

[@joerogers1364]

Love the concept and the time to pre test these models. I definitely want more! I appreciate adding some humor and color, but it was a bit too much playground kids making fun of manufacturing words. There’s so much potential innuendo in making things, never ending, that pointing out a few is distracting from the quality of your work. Still, just keep trying. That algorithm doesn’t sleep or do favors.

[@CrystalNetwork]

Regarding the respooler. Never had an issue with the pastamatic. You just have to follow the print instructions carefully regarding infill and walls. Also dont go ham. Go slow with the driver...never broke anything

[@thenextlayer]

My issue with the pastamatic was that the TPU flaps were not enough to stop the spool from continuing to spin if you stop with the drill.... This one, when you stop, it stops, because it's direclty driving the master spool.

[@CrystalNetwork]

@@thenextlayer Ah yes i understand. I also have the tpu flaps but they dont do much. I just go slower with the drill when i see the spool almost being empty to combat this.

[@protocolkey]

Thank you for the video and information, after having to tear my brand new printer and ams apart because of a cardboard spool losing an adapter ring, i fixed all the issues with them by just no longer buying cardboard spools unless i have some very, very special need. How much does a cardboard spool really mean in the grand scheme of the 3d printing waste? How much filament is wasted every day by people because of them, and if the average person just respools or rips off the cardboard and puts it on a reuseable spool what good is it really doing? Right now its mainly a political gimmick. Just try a couple different types and buy from manufactures that don't use them!

[@Izmirization]

Thanks for the video, subscribed. I just wanted to say using a glittery show filament on the vspooler, a device that is powered with power tools rather than using a performance grade polymer is absurd and really a hard break, literally, for the vspooler in this review. I would be interested in seeing a video breakdown and tested performance review of the popular respooler's with performance grade plastics. vSpooler Vs pastamatic with the upgrades, the pastamatic on it's own is pretty janky but once placed on a board with appropriate clamps and an upgraded drive train it works quite well. This is a tool I use heavily and it would be useful to know the strengths and weaknesses of each design with actually testing them.

[@only1muppet]

I’m definitely worn out on printer reviews, I have a Ender 3 v2. The only way I was able to get that was to buy it barely used 2 years ago. I search KZbin for 3D printing ideas and I either get a bunch of reviews or misidentified ones that have not one bit of prints in it. The others that actually do have “ideas” have no audio or just music.

[@SimplestUsername]

6:51 have you considered making that part with polypropylene? I read somewhere on internet that PP lubercates really well... Or something like that.

[@ameliabuns4058]

are you using matte filament for the vise? matte filament is absolutely AWFUL for anything but models. they wear down and are soft, and they are so weak.

[@WRZ_450]

I did the V-roller out of PETG with the gears being ABS-GF and it has worked so well. Absolutely love it.

[@radiotbo4646]

I loved when you where watching the video in the video

[@thenextlayer]

Thanks glad you noticed that detail

[@andrewut7ya511]

Usually if a part requires alot of assembly ill pass on it. For me 3d printing is a way to make things you cant make other ways or to make something fast to test an idea. For alot of people making your own tools is fun and i respect that but i just need to get things done. I wanted to print a vise and then i realised i had to go out and buy metal rails, at that point its faster and cheaper to just buy a metal vise. One of the best things to learn about 3d printing is when NOT to print something. All that said i make some useless/impractical stuff from time to time because designing and printing is fun.

[@mikel9567]

Instead of the weighted base, why not just put magnets in it to hold it to the table. If you want weight, using sand would be much better than what you're doing.

[@vovawolf]

הביסלי גריל אחי

[@kegandemand8728]

I made the fillament spooler and have been very happy with it, the noise problem i fixed by putting tape around the bottom rollers to "cushion" them. I also printed it in petg so that it holds up better though i only run my drill at about half speed while im transfering fillament, as ive had too many fillamenys snap at full speed on other respoolers and it becomes a nightmare.

[@Hotwire_RCTrix]

There are things you shouldn't print. Many because they shouldn't be made of plastic. 👍

[@NCVluminati]

I came hey after disassembling my ender 3 v2 hotend and finding out that I need to wait a month ish for new pneumatic fittings cause the Ones on my printer is broken. I too am now broken

[@TomN3rdZone]

I would not use suche a "multiple parts" tool on my saw (too dangerous imho). But if you do i would also suggest to use a OSvac Neo standard adapter.

[@williamwunsch4611]

I had no problem printing the solder scroll with my Prusa Mk3S+ with PETG

[@DCUOChaosDynasty]

for v-Roller I would suggest you to remove the screw from the filament guide, it will work better and it won't damage the drill bit, I also cut a pipe right at the output pipe of the material

[@Boodieman72]

I would need to print in PV-CF or something that can be useful and not just in PVA