I Got The ERCF V2 Working. Here's What I Learned.

[@thenextlayer]

Thanks for watching! Let me know what you think in the comments. Also, check out the merch I wore in this video at shop.thenextlayer.com

[@Splarkszter]

SOVOL IS A TOXIC COMPANY. PLEASE DO NOT WORK WITH THEM.

[@odeball22]

You look like your are working a nob with that thumbnail my guy.

[@bryanswift6301]

I always enjoy watching your videos. This reminds me that I am not tech savvy enough to build one and I’ll stick to my plug and play printers. I do really appreciate the level of skill and knowledge required to design and build one of these.

[@neilstaplin4726]

I'm with you dude. From the moment of hearing "I wanted to use the BigTreeTech EBB36 because I hadn't yet received the LDO Motors NightHawk Stealthburner board, but the EBB 36 is actually relatively sparse on extra GPIO ports, so I actually decided to use a spare MKS THR36 Board", I said "I have no idea what any of that was or what it meant, and if that's a reflection of this project, I'm gonna take my toys and go home

[@samhale5413]

This has been impressive to watch you build. Mad props for not giving up.

[@ivantrail702]

Welcome to the club, my friend. I'm glad you're here. Thanks for sticking with it. 👍

[@thenextlayer]

Thanks for all your help. Still working through lots of issues though! But soon…

[@3dpathfinder]

Teaching Tech is also working on a 5 head tool changer for the SV08

[@thenextlayer]

Yep! He inspired me.

[@duck_that_quacks]

hook up one 12 channel ERCFs to each tool head for 60 colour printing😂

[@peterrichards1989]

@@thenextlayer Are you guys going to collaborate on it? Two heads and all that :)

[@bajojohn]

This is one of those projects that I really want to do, but I think I will wait until it’s a little more mature.

[@Myrblyl]

Very interesting ! I was actually thinking about getting an ERCF V2 in near future. Manually swapping filaments, even for 2-color prints, is quite a hassle. I'm not afraid of building/calibrating one, actually. Tuning the way filaments are purged, that kind of things, is already "there" in some way. As for "Toolchanger or MMU ?", I guess the correct answwer is : BOTH. Both have their pro and cons, and they're not "opposites" or enemies. Complementary solutions at some point.

[@TrinomCZ]

Both multi material unit and multi extruder setup are awesome projects. However I see a significant difference in use case scenarios. Multi material units are mainly used for printing in colors, using the same type of material. On the other hand, multi extruder makes great sense for engineering use, where multiple different materials are used, either as supports (HIPS under ASA), or as aditional parts (TPE gaskets for example).

[@adcrane]

Great video with a heap of valuable info for anyone building, or considering building an ERCF. Very much appreciated, particularly sharing where you struggled.

[@Flockman3065]

Massive respect for this valuable resource, i've been looking at undertaking this for my Voron 2.4 glad to know i can benefit from your journey

[@Landlocked_sailorVT]

Holy deep dive 😮 I salute you on your perseverance. For me This would be a flaming pile in the dumpster after the first month of messing with this beast 😅

[@TiagoJesus]

I have the ERCF v2 kit and the Voron Trident kit. The challenge will be to put the two together . Thank you for making the path easier. 😁 It would be interesting to post some videos on different ways to reduce waste, as you said in the video. OBS: I've already built the Voron v2 and v0.

[@DarrenGerbrandt]

Currently waiting on my kit from Fysec. I'm looking at this as both a challenge and a project. I haven't built a Voron but I have converted both my Ender 3 Pro and Max to Klipper, moved from single Z lead screws to dual Z belts, upgraded the hotends to Revo CR with Mini Sherpa direct drives with HM7 shrouds. While I doubt this project will be even a bit easy, the harder part will be how to add a cutter to the HM7 shroud some how but then I may change my mind on which is harder when I actually start the build 😁

[@TS_Mind_Swept]

Do I want to build one? No. Did I enjoy watching the process and explanation of how you did it? Absolutely

[@TomN3rdZone]

..and as always. Your attitude make your videos even more worth seeing !

[@GregAtlas]

"Is it worth the challenge of building one of these instead of waiting for creality or anycubic to actually unlock their systems?" In my opinion, yes. Unfortunately, these companies that make our 3D printing products often have really bad firmware or are really inefficient. Being able to make your own and tune it just the way you need it is priceless and these companies don't have a reputation of allowing or supporting that. You always end up limited. The exception being the Prusa MMU since you can tune its firmware, but that involves going back to the Marlin ecosystem and also costs quite a bit.

[@Artholos]

@@GregAtlas I’m totally interested to try, but I have no idea where to start! I have a Creality CR-M4. How should one go about starting a conversion like this?

[@GregAtlas]

@@Artholos For a creality system, I'd learn how to get Klipper to run on it or Marlin and install it on a different brain board. Given my experience with other creality systems, I'd also completely gut the creality extruder and hot end/cold end while I was at it since they tend to be hot garbage (though I haven't used the M4, so I can't speak specifically on that.) After getting it up and running with that kind of setup, then I would try out the ERCF. To my understanding, it should be pretty simple to get Klipper running on a raspberry pi and USB control the creality board. Might have to install a different firmware on the creality board for proper interfacing. Creality's brain boards are often noisy and low quality, so you might want to just swap to a bigtreetech board and the latest TMC drivers anyway, but that really depends on what kind of budget you want to spend on it.

[@karlh6692]

Love it! I can't wait to see you get the toolchanger going to get a feel for how easy it is in comparison.

[@thenextlayer]

lol. Real talk.

[@psmithrpm]

Super valuable contribution of useful data. Thank you for all the work you've been putting into the ERCF!

[@3dpathfinder]

I admire all your effort, but I can truly says that this is not a level of ticker id be up for. Great work and here's to who ever has the will to see this through. Not me , I know myself enough to say I wont be trying this.

[@thenextlayer]

I can honestly say that if I had known everything it was going to take, I would never have taken it on. Maybe as a hobby, but, definitely not as something I plan to make content about. Note how I haven't put out a video in WEEKS...

[@Scrogan]

With another year or two of improvements, and some plug-and-play clones from the usual suspects, I can see it being good enough to recommend to users of voron clones at least. But probably not ender 3 users.

[@marty4286]

Congrats on getting it working! I'm now finally tempted to order my own ECRF

[@rtr56879]

Its like you were looking over my shoulder for my own stab at this thing. Glad you stuck with it and what a great resource this will be for the next guy. Cheers 🍻

[@andrewesquivel]

i think....i might be one of those people who does this project... But I wana do it a bit different. I came from years of Marlin. So Klipper has me going nuts with excitement.

[@KitGerrits]

Man, I need to give my BBL AMS a hug. It takes forever to switch, but took zero effort to set up. I just want to print and don't have the headspace to build my own. Have you looked into the later BBL/Orca versions that try to cut off a smaller tip for less purge?

[@thenextlayer]

Truth.

[@thenextlayer]

Does newer orca cut the tip?!

[@TheMNWolf]

I do have a suggestion for the cutting arm. Instead of printing the holder and then pressing the knife into it, add a pause at layer to the print file on the first layer above the slot. This will pause right before it does that layer. Assuming you're printing in ABS, dab some acetone on the blade, hold it in the slot for a few seconds until it sticks, and resume the print. I went through four of those tool holders before I figured that out.

[@dooleve]

I opted for the Trad Rack, it is a lot more straightforward both to build and operate compared to the ERCF. Cheaper too.

[@MallocArray]

I'm interested in TradRack as well. I recommend TNL do that next

[@DifficultNerd]

One could take a page from the automotive industry with those DCT gearboxes and build a system around a tool changer with say 3 or 4 heads, where say 2 or 3 of the heads had smaller units of this device on it and another head was "dedicated" to support material. You could, using this scheme, have run out protection, material swaps happening while printing was happening on another toolhead. But man what an insane build that would be.

[@marinermerrill3884]

Very informative as always. Really love your content!

[@ashers_workshop]

Awesome. Thanks for making this video!

[@makermylo]

Upgrade the stepper to a beefy Nema17, install a 40T Wheel instead of the 80T and you will be able to do filament swaps in

[@thenextlayer]

Confirmed or theoretically?

[@makermylo]

@@thenextlayer Confirmed, its what i have on mine and its been reliable for months. Also, check out Filamentalist respoolers, save yourself the headache of using buffers.

[@Scrogan]

A tool-changer can at least be expanded on. Start out with just one extra tool-head. Add a third only when you need it. I was thinking you could do the same thing with filament multiplexers, by having filament dry boxes that each have their own stepper and bowden tube running to the hot end. The hot end would still have its own filament cutter. Then you just add another filament box when you want another colour. You might be able to drop the filament box price below $150 each if you really try. The expensive part is needing a servo and stepper for each box, but there might be shortcuts around that without impinging on the modularity. Like bowden cables from a single servo.

[@jerrari3D]

Heck yeah! Nice work Jonathan 👍

[@crocblanc01]

I haved own the v1.1 and convert it to v2 (i'm part of dev team) so i don't have some difficulty to build and tuning it. But i run it directly wired on the MB and don't have the cutter installed nor led. My first print after calibration has 561 swap and print it without any error.

[@Ituran1]

Thank you so much for all your work! i have already a kit laying aroud and will try to get it build and running, when my replacement Nozzle and PEI plate comes from Sovol for my SV 08! Thanks for all your tipps!

[@slonlo364]

So this video definitely made up my mind. I love open source projects, I love building things, but this seems like way too much for me, at least right now. I'm definitely becoming more of a product guy than a project guy. Or rather I like projects I can knock out fairly quickly then enjoy and move on to the next one. This does not seem like that. It looks super cool and looks like a blast to figure out, but I know the frustration would get to me. Great breakdown! And great video as always!

[@xxlyfexx1447]

Subscribed and I’m back, I had seen your video posted a month ago just 2 days ago and was just looking for the next video so glad it just came out!

[@xxlyfexx1447]

I have no screen for my printer, though I’m going to setup an Estop now after hearing the first few min!

[@klaiddias]

Very good, congratulations. Waiting for updates primarily suing ERFC V2.

[@DR4K0R3X]

I started working on this after i saw your other video, thanks for the tips! I guess I better order that servo before i get much further 😅

[@mustafaatatuzun]

Well done man.

[@MrBooth1974]

Awesome video my friend ! I’ve been thinking of tackling this project after my Zero G Mercury upgrade is complete. I was already considering changing up to a Stealth Burner, and this has pushed me towards that even more now. My only question is why they aren’t using thrust bearings on the pulleys you said you had to keep sanding down till the spun. You can get them pretty small and are ridiculously inexpensive.

[@esurfrider7687]

Way to power through bro! Challenging project, I’m interested in multi material systems but I have yet to see really valuable implementation of the tech, I have some ideas but I wouldn’t go down that rabbit hole unless I had a million dollar product idea that I really wanted to develop at home.

[@flaviomathys1196]

I'm in the slow process of researching everything before starting this project. Currently i'm trying to decide if i should build a voron for it first or change the toolhead of my corexy ender 5 pro to a stealthburner for it.🤔

[@Zetler]

That intro was glorious.

[@joelvarney5091]

I did not know about this thing. I wish I had found this earlier.

[@thenextlayer]

Don’t do it. There are easier solutions coming out soon.

[@joelvarney5091]

@thenextlayer yeah, I think I'm really going to like the AD5X that I just bought.

[@AtomicBleach]

Going to be interesting to see you get this working paired with some recycled filament. Im sure youll come up with some really wild color choices for multifilament prints. Especially if you slap some purge blocks and filament poop in the shreader!

[@mariospanayiotou6644]

What i would love to see you experiment with is multicolour without any “purging”. Meaning you swap filaments without purging or cutting every few meters of filament, sort of creating your own custom dual, triple rainbow etc filament

[@C3DPropShop]

I built a 2.4, and I love my voron. It's pretty much the only go-to printer I use these days.... but if i need multimaterial, I would have a serious look at bambu. This is just too much for me. I guess I'll just stick to single colors until this PROJECT turns into a PRODUCT. Happy printing.

[@linkin987456]

You just saved me from epic level failure. I have an MKS Skipr board, reflashing a new os is a whole other problem. It may not even be available

[@Todestelzer]

20:13 try and replace the ptfe tube from the wiper with 6x 6x2mm silicone o-rings. No poop on the build plate anymore.

[@TheMugwump1]

Thankfully I didn't pull the trigger on one of these. My options now are to just give in and get an AMS for my P1S, or go with tap/stealthchanger, but there's just not enough info on it for me to feel comfortable.

[@VasilyKhoruzhick]

Thanks for the video! I'm really interested in ERCF and unfortunately there isn't a lot of videos about it on yt

[@qess]

Would love an update on this, and your thoughts in the BoxTurtle / 8-track.

[@philevans4021]

How on earth have you managed to get your purge multiplier down to 0.35? I have exactly the same setup (Revo, Filametrix) and definitely cutting as close to the tip as possible, and with some colours I still get bleeding at 0.8!

[@thenextlayer]

Ummm not sure. I just tuned it and cut the tip pretty minimally…?

[@Monopek_Cannibal]

9:22, I also noticed this strange (nice) feature of the K1C (without additional settings in the slicers) is that this 3D printer is quite accurate. Even if it is slightly inferior in print quality to bamboo in stock condition.

[@thenextlayer]

Agreed. It really is a phenomenal printer. Everything the K1 wasn’t. I actually think the print quality is superior to almost anything except maybe the new MK4S…

[@RCBound]

I come from the radio control hobby and I bet there is a cheaper strong enough servo. Savox is pretty solid for sure, have had many of them for my cars. I'd look into KST though.

[@oOWaschBaerOo]

the ebb35 btw has enough ports like plenty.. i got endstop, filament sensor, klicky installed plus i have 3 more gpios left over one currently controlling my pwm for my 2 part cooling fans, i could technically use the last 2 for more sensor or rpm sensing even

[@jasonjennings6686]

Agreed! Just need to read the pin out schematic and you can find plenty of pins for other items

[@TomN3rdZone]

At 14:27 you show your top of the printer with the "inlet" for the filament. I am looking for such a thing - what is the name of this ? I would like to add a BTT SFS2 on top of that thing..if anyone has seen such a mystic mod..feel free to share a link !

[@DiomedesDominguez]

10:47 "soon" they have months since that announcement without any feedback or updates with new pictures to say the least.

[@thenextlayer]

There is progress behind the scenes, I can’t say more.

[@djsolstice8964]

I just spent 15 minutes TRYING to find any news on this. Nothing. It looks like they are not doing it, or have pulled down updates or news about it. Please, anyone, try and find something on this and prove me wrong. I want one. Co Print's website has no mention of the Sovol SV08 partnership anywhere, and visa-versa for Sovol's website.

[@kristian6087]

@@djsolstice8964co print is doing stuff with creality now maybe they gave a better deal and required exclusivity?

[@squishysquare8222]

7:11 ive also had good luck with the MG92B its quite a bit cheaper as well. @ 6v it has 3.5kg VS the Savox's 3.9kg @ 6v. yes thats at 6v and not the 5v the ercf will run it at

[@aaamott]

I'm working on my own toolchanger, and each tool can be as little as $20-$30. Tested once, but I'm working on an updated tool,auto X Y Z Offset, and a better purge bucket. Not 12 colors though lol, but I'd love to see toolchangers with an ERCF on one tool.

[@thenextlayer]

How can it be so cheap? What hot ends are you using????

[@aaamott]

@@thenextlayer KZbin seems determined to delete my reply... third time's the charm. Guessing it's the link. I'm testing using bambu lab replacement hotends from China. $8 where I am, plus a CHT nozzle ($2 each). Combine with a cheap BMG kit ($6) and motor ($7.50) and 3010 fan ($4) and a pair of 4010 blowers ($4) and you have a full hotend. Or drop the 4010 fans and use the 3D printed CPAP-style fan from Mark Rehorst with a single air duct for all the tools. Or, of course, a real CPAP fan.

[@davidrandall4001]

Sorry to be a wet blanket, but at 2:18 I'm thinking what a PITA to implement. Still the overall build and EVERYTHING that went into it is Cool AF. Still thinking that this might need to be implemented from a ground up build instead of a "retrograde"? Printing the parts on the same printer for consistency might prevent insanity..... OMg this is nuts...... but still Very cool..... How many months in total did this take?

[@thenextlayer]

Honestly can’t say I’d do it if I’d known what it was going to take

[@maxper75]

I'm currently teaching the conversion of my e5plus to mercury zero g. I have all parts for it and zero time, but I'm sure that I soon am starting to go for it, and it will be a moment (hopefully short) in which my printer will not be available, as I have only one. Question is: once I will start my ercf build, it's it possible to stop building it and use anyway the printer as without it? Or I should expect to be stuck without the printer up till I finish ercf build?

[@Todestelzer]

Had to install a new Linux version because of python too. Took my 8h till everything was running again… Need to install the filament toolhead cutter. And still on ERCF 1.0. the kits for V2 are pretty expensive.

[@thenextlayer]

I feel your pain...

[@John_Ridley]

Is it sensible to build one of these to go with the new K1C I just bought? Sounds like I'll at least have to replace the firmware on the printer, and possibly the print head as well?

[@tx31]

Apologies if this isn't the right place to comment as someone who hasn't jump into the fray of ERCF or it's "filament changing siblings" so to speak... On the part regarding the plastic poop, is it possible to instead of taking a dump at the corner, or make a purge block, is it possible to just make it make it part of the infill? Unless it's a clear-ish print, or extremely low infill/perimeter setting, I see no reason to not just integrate the blended color into part of the print that would not be visible. Even if the print is multi material, I highly doubt that small bit of the print where the two plastics are being blended would be "mission critical" for it's use case due to the change in material properties. (if it might make a difference, the option to switch back to taking a dump is still there) So far my observation on this part of the plastic melting rabbit hole (heh) of a hobby, it seems like this isn't even an option to begin with, hence all the poop and "tower of babel" that gets thrown out post print

[@marksalt7733]

nearly finished building v2 kit. 2 questions first i noticed your wall mounted spool holders id like to do something similar do you have a link to this system (stl files ect) also I'm struggling finding info for the filament sensors. i printed the housing for 2 sensors i have the sebor kit that comes with one sensor are two sensors necessary and at same time I'm going to change my head from wired plugin board to can where do these sensors connect. any info will be well appreciated

[@paulmorgan8106]

Great video. Thank you! 🙏

[@thenextlayer]

Glad you enjoyed it!

[@k0mpreni]

Very nice one! Stupid question, but is it available for all printers? Would love to have it on my sovol sv06!

[@thenextlayer]

It'll work on any Klipper machine, with adaptation. See the first video in the series I did on this.

[@VirgoSquawks]

*Opens video second time, skips to chapter, immediately called out for skipping through video*

[@notsam498]

I would not call canbus an upgrade. There are many implementations klipper generally does not use the higher data rate one, most canbus will generate some latency from the sensors. Most of all though, many boards have drivers and pwms on the board itself. For those of us aiming at higher chamber temps this is asking for problems, keep in mind past 70c Even fans can start failing. Even printing abs the board is going to be running real hot and this increases it's chances of failure. It's a use case choice, for some people it will work out, for some people it won't.

[@chidswick]

I'm in the middle of building one of these and your video flashed up on my feed. Luckily it did ! I have just started building the selector tool and your comment on the servo made me dive straight into amazon and buy the Savox. Luckily I am in the UK and the company selling these are also UK based, so the cost wasn't as steep (23 GBP).. anyway, that's not the point - the point is you have probably saved me a lot of heart and headache. I am stopping production and printing the parts, awaiting delivery on the servo ! Let's hope that is the thing I have to worry about anyway. I do have one question that you may be able to help with - Filametrix - how much filament should be unloaded before the filamtrix cuts, or does it cut and leave a strand inside the toolhead - I couldn't get my head around how a new piece of filament is supposed to follow up on a piece that is left inside the toolhead .. but your video suggests you unload a bit, then cut, leaving only a small strand? Thanks for this video, I am subbing to your channel !

[@thenextlayer]

Thanks for the kind words

[@bigdawg4795]

Where can I get the STL files for the servo arm and servo mount for the savox? I cannot locate them. All I find files for is the MG92b servo

[@hedleypepper1838]

This multi material / multi colour thing seems to be a monster that just keeps growing. Seriously how many colours do you need.... honest question. It seems we're into the because I can ill have 20 colours or more. I'm designing a 4 head machine that comes in less than an x1c with ams. This is not a tool changer. More like 4 head IDDEX ( Independent Double Dual EXtruders) The only thing stopping me is software and config that I just can't get my head around.

[@NinjaForHire]

holy crap bro haha I was sleeping on this video I watched the last one 2 times, GL on the box turtle I just watched west3d break down one of the 4 lane sections operation looks to be a lot cleaner route in comparison. so do you actually use this as every day use now? maybe purge into the infill? haha an idea but probably another nightmare of a task.

[@GadgetReviewVideos]

Congrats! Hmm not allowed to talk about it. I’m Thinking mini-lidar add on 😊 A good servo with torque and metal gears makes a big difference. I’ve been running things with servos for 30+ years and it will last much longer.

[@MrTrockc]

Yep, harder to build than an actual Voron but..my record is 41 swaps so far! Thanks for the filametrix mod, I'm printing this asap.

[@BuildItBasement]

Hey there-I have a few people who really want to build (and have me build) the ERCF. I have held off for a long while because I have never seen anyone have a long-term positive experience with the unit with normal use. Please let me know your final take on the engineering and end-user experience, either as a reply here or if you prefer, you can find my email address on my channel community page.

[@natdizzle4259]

Anything over seven colors I feel like the ERC has a lot of issues the tradrack would be a great comparison for you it's extremely similar to the ERCf but it's easier to build not as wide and you can add on way more modules before you start to have the issues of the ERCf

[@Bob-x2h]

Hey, Im a manual wheelchair user and I was wondering if you could print a wheelchair frame? do the make the printers big enough? I'm very new to 3D printing

[@ritiksadh1999]

Is this ERCF project compatible with any open source printers like creality, anycubic, etc. Or only with diy voron printer ?

[@thenextlayer]

Theoretically any

[@sebastiankarafiat796]

i'm surprised you got the passive puffersystem running...also working with matte stuff, CF Filament, and so on? I'm close to finish my vcore 500 with 9 channel ERCF.....but i had to develop electric rewinders(just way too long bowden tube), a breakout board, the hall effect sensor was crap, extrudersensor (orbiter filament sensor) also crap....rebuilt both of them with ball bearing switches and long switch tolerance....same experience with the servo as you had....oh yeah, and a purge chute is needed....and when i thought i am finished, beacon has an upgrade for true zero measurement, means i need a brush for the nozzle....by now it reminds me of a giant bambulab printer....but it's a neverending story to build something like that

[@paintballercali]

Nice video thanks for your hard work.

[@Thoringer]

The challenge for me is humidity because of where I live. So, for now, I stick with the way more expensive BambuLab AMS.

[@thorjohnson5237]

This looks really cool and it looks like it's time to build... If the tool changer is USB and this is CAN does it all feed into the same printer mainboard?

[@thenextlayer]

It can, yeah.

[@kivulhepy]

Thanks for the video❤

[@thenextlayer]

Thanks for being a member!

[@vbart1776]

Interesting you mentioned Sovol solution coming soon

[@slacksthegreat]

Im definitely taking this on soon

[@thenextlayer]

You sure...? LOL.

[@Rawstock92]

A linear actuator would be great in place of camming a cheap servo … don’t know where to find that linear actuator, but maybe someone else does! (Of course, hydraulics would work for a great video, but would be a nightmare day-to-day … air?)

[@CurtisCreations402]

Shit getting this project and the shredder done in basically the same month?!? I bet your shoulders are sore as hell from all that pressure and I bet your wallet is hurtin 🤣 but very successful month congrats brother!

[@DJProPlusMax]

Cool, but considering it is even more difficult to build than a Voron, which I myself haven't yet built, I think it'll be quite some time when I get to an ERCF. Right now though, the E3NG seems interesting...

[@nadeaubeauchemin531]

For Fystec ERCF v2 LEDs in mmu/base/mmu_hardware: [neopixel mmu_leds] pin: mmu:MMU_NEOPIXEL chain_count: 16 color_order: GRB (it's not RGB, but GRB) And: [mmu_leds] num_gates: 8 led_strip: neopixel:mmu_leds exit_range: 8-1 entry_range: 9-16 #status_index: 17 frame_rate: 24

[@3dPrintingMillennial]

Do you think resin printing the small parts that needed to be really precise would've prevented a lot of this headache?

[@thenextlayer]

They’d likely break with the force of the Savox

[@HazzleNt]

I have a ercf v2 kit coming in the mail but I can't print abs or asa, will pla work for the parts?

[@thenextlayer]

No!

[@HazzleNt]

@thenextlayer what about petg?

[@SianaGearz]

I think all of this hardware is too complicated. Classic cheap MK8 extruders and stepper motors, one set per spool. Arduino Uno with Klipper connected over USB. CNC Shield on the Arduino Uno, 4 stepper drivers. 3MS for Klipper. Does that sound like a plan?

[@JonMcCourry]

How about the 3d chameleon? have you looked into this one?

[@alejandrot3689]

Awesome!!!

[@thenextlayer]

Thank you! Cheers!

[@HandsomeToast]

Is this even possible on other printers like an elegoo Neptune 4 max?

[@maxpruss-m5q]

great video!!!

[@orthotron]

Purge waste is pretty high on high flow hotends. There must be a better way of doing this. What if we used a puff of hot air to clear the melt zone instead of feeding in more filament?

[@mateuszq6518]

Czy taki zestaw będzie działał z bambo?

[@hum.ortales1753]

where can i find STL files