V15 Climber on Most Common Hangboarding Mistakes | ft Ned Feehally

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About The Guest:
Ned Feehally is Shauna Coxsey’s husband. (Just teasing Ned!) Ned is a top-level boulderer from the UK, the cofounder of Beastmaker, and the author of Beastmaking. We talked about his background in climbing, how Beastmaker got started, Ned’s approach to finger training, the benefits of board climbing, using ankle weights for body tension, and much more. You can learn more about Ned at beastmaker.co.uk
Full Show Notes 👉 thenuggetclimbing.com/episode...
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Listen to the full episode 👉 thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/ned-feehally Or you can check out our library of 150+ interviews with the biggest names in climbing 👉 thenuggetclimbing.com/all-episodes

[@MightyMushroo0m]

Climbing's the fine line between consistency and avoiding injury

[@partykrew666]

6:32 it almost looks like his leg was edited in separately 😂 😳

[@kobebaugher1088]

TNCP is the standard of getting all kinds of different aspects on how to approach your training, this info is just there now and I appreciate you to the fullest man

[@spacescienceguy]

I'm more impressed by Ned's ability to get their heel above their head for heel hooks, holy 6:32

[@Jonez5]

Consistency = Key He’s totally right and I love that it’s such a simple answer. I’ve just started small amounts of hangboarding & can’t wait to see how my fingers feel in a year 😈

[@Fred-oz3tw]

well it seems simple, but how do you not injure when doing it consistently. thats not so simple...

[@samuelgeorge7090]

how are you getting on?

[@molomono9481]

I see a lot of people complaining about injuries, take into account is that Consistency doesn't mean sticking to the plan in excruciating detail. It's the feedback loop you get from recovery that needs to be consistent, if you notice your hands got a beating on a training session, skip the hang-boarding so you can do it when fresh. Lots of strength adaptation comes from high quality intense work, to put in the time takes a long time since if you tried it all at once you would get injured. To improve consistency it dramatically helps to prioritize recovery, but you need to listen to your body. Just because of your choice of project you might have booked double your normal time hanging with body weight on crimps in a single session, it would actually be inconsistent to do the hang-boarding on top of that. Go train something else with your energy and stay injury free as long as possible!

[@johannielsen463]

Which also means staying injury free. I think that is the biggest thing I overlooked as a climber starting out. Going so hard that get knicked up and need a month here a month off there...and all of a sudden your consistency is shot.

[@taidghrichards4329]

I think the answer is light efforts of consistency, people mistake consistency to mean max loading consistently, but I think that's a mistake and leads to injuries.

[@clown5911]

That heel hook at 6:30 looked like someone else's leg rofl.

[@whosaidiwantedahandle]

I've always been unsure of how to balance climbing with hangboarding. I'll try his recommendation of 3 maximum hangs during warm-up.

[@markswaim-tf2gl]

Try hanging later that day, helped me big time.

[@YSlimbo]

I’m in the fifth week of my six week training plan with the crimpd app. It’s the first training plan I’m using since I’ve started climbing one year ago. It’s mainly focused on wrist, shoulder and finger training. After the first 3 weeks I’ve noticed that I have more endurance and power in my underarms and hands. My shoulders are growing like crazy 😅 My performance on the fingerboard with body weight repeaters and max hangs, increased just slightly. That covers the experience shown in this podcast scene :D

[@Cdudesproductions]

When he talks about max hangs, is that maximum time hanging on a board, or is it the maximum weight you can hang with?

[@Hopesfallout]

"Maxhangs" usually means very heavy hangs. Usually the highest weight you can hang on for less than 10 secs with probably minutes of rest in between.

[@jacksonwhitcup1185]

The bit where Louis Parkinson explains his breathing style would be a great clip for YT. maybe with some footage of riverbed interspersed

[@Fred-oz3tw]

i cannot do it consistently even if i have the discipline for it. my tendons hurt at some point and i have to stop for a week or more.

[@La0bouchere]

That likely means one of the following: - The intensity you are doing is too high - You're recovery is bad (sleep, diet, no active recovery) - You are doing too much climbing on top of training - You are increasing intensity too fast. Tendon hypertrophy takes around 2 months, so you shouldn't be increasing intensity that frequently. If you are new to climbing and hangboarding, you probably shouldn't be increasing intensity at all for a few months. A very general fix for this problem is to lower the intensity of your workouts to the point where you guarantee that you can do it each week, then very slowly increase it from their. Even if it feels like you are only training at half effort, doing that consistently will be better long term than training hard and taking weeks off all the time.

[@La0bouchere]

6 week programs are pretty useless when tendon hypertrophy takes around 8 weeks