Creality CR10S5 BigTreeTech SKR1.4 Turbo TMC2209 Upgrade

[@TripodsGarage]

Nicely done! Clean, and simple to following, plus entertaining!

[@TheRealSamPrentice]

Thanks dude :)

[@cyrilleboismard1358]

bonjour je n'arrive pas a compilé, j'ai une erreur : Ignore unknown configuration option `monitor_flags` in section [env] CR10S, SKR 1.4 turbo, TMC2209, TFT35-E3 tète d'impression : Sprite extruder pro kit, pouvez vous m'aider ?

[@governmentbacon6063]

do you have the link for the mount in the video? the link you have up dos not have that mount on there.

[@jaybob1519]

is there a version with the BL-touch ?

[@WhereNerdyisCool]

How's this upgrade performing, some months later? I just had a friend give me their CR-10 S5 with a dead Creality board. I have a few SKR 1.4 Turbo boards with 2219 drivers.

[@TheRealSamPrentice]

Totally fine I’m using it right now as it happens :)

[@hobbyone4119]

hello .... do you have any idea why my CR10S, after putting marlin 2.1, prints all the layers always on the first one?!? the Z axis does not want to be raised during printing .... in homing and in bed leveling everything is fine but during printing it does not want to know ... ideas? I mount the BigTreeTech SKR 1.4 Turbo with TMC2209 drivers. Greetings

[@TheRealSamPrentice]

Can you raise the z up from the controls ?

[@hobbyone4119]

@@TheRealSamPrentice absolutely yes

[@TheRealSamPrentice]

@@hobbyone4119 any grinding or movement on The z when it’s processing gcode ?

[@hobbyone4119]

@@TheRealSamPrentice what I can tell you is that while it warms up there, Z does not move. when the print starts it makes the skirt and the first level correctly and then stops going up on the Z axis, printing the subsequent layers always on the first level. in the Marlin 2.1 firmware I didn't make many changes, I reversed the direction of the motors and the extruder because they were the other way around

[@pjottermoldes5443]

Hi, first of all thank you for your tutorial! I`m having some trouble getting BLTouch to work on the TFT70 v3.0 I`m missing the button icon as wel as the whole leveling section. I got a touch smart 1.2 , SKR 1.4 Turbo / CR10S5 / BTT TFT 70 V3.0 / TMC2209 UART . I tried your marlin version and did a complete rebuild from scratch Marlin 2.1, but BLTouch isn`t working. When I start the machine it does however doe a good selftest. Do you think you could please help me or perhaps point me in the right direction? It`s driving me nuts... Many thanks!!

[@TheRealSamPrentice]

Send me an email and I’ll compile one for you

[@pjottermoldes5443]

@@TheRealSamPrentice Thank you for your reply! I send you an e-mail just now (actualy 2 pressed enter to soon in the first one and it slipped away hahaha)

[@madvelila]

Hello. This is my first comment on your channel. I'm wondering if this is still relevant board in 2023 or is there better board for similar price nowadays? (Must have requirements for my setup are atleast 5x tmc2209 drivers)

[@TheRealSamPrentice]

There are many boards now and you can run higher power, the skr3 board will do the same kind of job but if you’re running klipper the processing will be off redundant

[@hazar31]

I added a bltouch and a smart filament sensor. I edited the code accordingly. Now i get an EEPROM data size error and a fade height error. Do you know how I can solve these issues?

[@TheRealSamPrentice]

Go into the menu and reset the printer. Let me know if it clears the error.

[@adrian30497]

Have it on cr10s4 with bltouch and hemera. Works how it have to work.

[@TheRealSamPrentice]

Have what on ? Not sure what you mean ?

[@adrian30497]

@@TheRealSamPrentice the Board

[@TheRealSamPrentice]

@@adrian30497 Oh I see, sorry you have this board on the S4 - Awesome!

[@SamyBreezy]

Hey thank you for your video ! I'm trying to get my S5 working with the SKR1.4T for months now, I have 2 issues with it, the first one is I enabled the Z stepper auto align, but my left z motor is spinning slower than my right z motor. My second issue is my extruder not spinning (but moving like when your nozzle is clogged), I tried with an other motor/cable same thing, the problem is on the firmware or maybe the board, any idea for these 2 problems?

[@TheRealSamPrentice]

Okay so on the extruder issue if you plug the motor into another point like the x does it move? Check the cable connections and the plug wiring. I’ll have to check the code but you might want to check the voltage for the z’s set in the firmware. Is the z slower or is it sticking is my other question ?

[@SamyBreezy]

@@TheRealSamPrentice So for the extruder, I swapped the Y and extuder cable on the board, the bed is moving (slowly) as the extruder should, and the extruder is doing the clogged movements (but faster than before) the weird thing is that I tried 2 differents motors (one from my Ender and the stock CR10 motor) and 2 differents cable, but same issue. For the Z, the left one is slower than the right, I think the left one is the one plugged on the E1 slot (thank you for your fast answer btw)

[@TheRealSamPrentice]

@@SamyBreezy sounds like you need to configure your steps in that case.

[@TheRealSamPrentice]

If you go into the settings on your screen your E steps for the E 400

[@TheRealSamPrentice]

@@SamyBreezy the x and y should be 80 for both

[@Onyhinulike]

KAY3D site is now gone. They no longer have any Marlin software releases

[@hazar31]

Alright. I have the same board same printer same drivers. Only problems I’m having are 1. End stops are not working. 2. All the Axis are inverted.

[@TheRealSamPrentice]

Okay are you doing your own custom firmware? On the axis you might be able to either invert them via your screen, the firmware editor or by simply swapping AA/BB over on the 4 cables that is where you take the two inner A & B and the two outer A & B cables so you end up with BB/AA if that makes sense. On the end stops that’s an odd one, but it might be down to the travel on the axis so check that first :) let me know how you get on!

[@hazar31]

@@TheRealSamPrentice You are a legend. Changing Aa/bb worked miraculously. It also solved the end stop issue!

[@TheRealSamPrentice]

@@hazar31 awesome :)

[@hazar31]

i have skr 2 instead of skr 1.4 turbo. Would the same firmware and pin configurations work for it?

[@TheRealSamPrentice]

It might be slightly different and the compile might be different also. I’d check the pins on the images and see if they match up

[@hazar31]

@@TheRealSamPrentice im setting up the board rn. Pin configurations slightly different but it’s fine. I hope the firmware works because skr 2 is an upgraded version of skr 1.4. Also, SKR 2 is not included in the board list.

[@hazar31]

@@TheRealSamPrentice i tried to compile myself but got so many errors. So I just gave up and wanted to use your firmware

[@TheRealSamPrentice]

@@hazar31 Ah okay well maybe Cheeta 5.0 now supports the skr 2 - I dont have time today but I will have a look tomorrow.

[@AwdRegal]

Kay3d is long gone link its spam!, and your github file doesn't load correctly . Anyway to do an update?

[@TheRealSamPrentice]

Yes a four-year-old link… excuse me

[@AwdRegal]

​@TheRealSamPrentice no need to be rude, I wasn't. Was letting you know the kay3d link was bad, if you could remove it. Then I tried to follow your video, but when I open your git hub file in vscode it errors out. Shows a bunch of red nulls and white boxes

[@TheRealSamPrentice]

@@AwdRegalI wasn’t being rude, the thing is that if I had to keep an eye on links in all videos it would be an impossible task. Kay3ds Demise was a terrible shame! Maybe check out TH3D and see if they have any board files for that board. However klipper is now a guilty pleasure for most on the firmware side due to its easy editing inside the program.

[@sithdragon99]

Hoping to apply this video to my used s5. Thank you for doing this video, there isn't much info out there for newbies.

[@TheRealSamPrentice]

Let me know if you need help I’ve done the s5 mod also ;)

[@sithdragon99]

@@TheRealSamPrentice and I'm lost. Making the connections were easy. I am struggling to follow the compiling part of it. I've never done it before so the video is a bit too fast for me.

[@TheRealSamPrentice]

@@sithdragon99 Hey Jer, sorry about that! Let me know where you are up to and ill try and help you out :)

[@ericastoll2183]

I’m also here for the exact same reason. My CR10S5 keeps throwing an E1 error. Someone said it would be my 5 volt regulator Cricut, someone else gave me a list of things to check concerning my hot end but I replaced my hot end. Totally willing to read forums/books/watch videos but I don’t know where to start. 😭

[@TheRealSamPrentice]

@@ericastoll2183 what’s your setup stock or modded Board? Have you tried a pid tune?

[@stephenkosloff6081]

Nice video - great - can you send me the .bin file as my pc hangs with building for 1 day !?^%& would appreciate it no end - Essex

[@TheRealSamPrentice]

ping me an email and i'll reply with it

[@mattmeyer6471]

but why cheetah over just marlin?

[@TheRealSamPrentice]

Just answered this directly on Facebook but to also answer here: Matthew Meyer Well mainly because most 3d printer users want to be 3d printing, not messing around with code. You need to remember that it can be a complicated process so the aim here is to make it easy for the people who don't know, not to confuse the hell out of people and scare them away.

[@krazzykiller1]

if your hear trying to figure out what your doing wrong. it's probably the board. I have now had 6 that didn't work. sd cards missing bootloaders cold solder joints. I hade one that worked for almost a year. then it stopped reading its sd card. bottom like bigtreetech is a rip off. go buy something that works are forget these ripp off boards.

[@TheRealSamPrentice]

Octopi ;)

[@TheRealSamPrentice]

Did you ever get the feeling that it’s you and not the product?