These Bowden Cables Surprised Me!

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- These Bowden Cables Surprised Me with Spooky Mechanical Action at a distance!
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[@TheXtrafresh]

As an avid cyclist, here's two pieces of advice in using these cables: 1) Get the expensive stuff. It's MUCH more durable when it comes to rust, kinks, stretching cables, and glide friction. Cheaper cables will eventually betray you in exceptionally frustrating ways. 2) Use the endcaps (ferrules) that come with the cable. They prevent the outer wire from fraying, and stop dust and grime being funneled into the channel on every actuation. Edit with more ideas from the replies: 3) Do not push on these cables. It'll work for a while, but eventually your cable will buckle. Instead, make sure the inner cable is always under tension. The mute mechanism will fail in this regard, the marble dropper gets it right. 4) Cable stretch will introduce timing errors. You won't measure this in the studio or your tests now, but you'll absolutely know before the end of your world tour. Maybe not introduce this vulnerability into the dropper design? Alternatively, get the good stuff and have adjustments like on a bike. 5) Go to a good Local Bike Store (LBS) for mountainbikers, and explain what you want to do. They will assist you with proper tools, installation and gear choice. I can't think of any bike mechanic that won't be thrilled to help you and save you a lot of time and frustration. 6) @Nevir202 suggests "push-pull-cables" if you wish to avoid tensioning the inner cable. Edit 2: This is not a put-down, I have been fascinated with everything you do since MM1! Go Martin!

[@BrianHair]

I second this advice. Also, the cables have a tendency to crush at the attachment points and then subsequently slip through what is clamping them in place. You need to introduce a turn or edge or something the cable is clamped around to help keep it in place otherwise they loosen with time. The stretching of the cable and loosening over time will not do kind things to your timing I wouldn't think if these cables are being used between the indicator and the gate for the gate to drop marbles.

[@marcinkowalczyk647]

i highly support that advice as well

[@Mefistofy]

I might add that smoothly ground cables are just nice. Less friction.

[@thalespimentelzuanazzi3365]

And instead of using that two plate and for screw, it's possible to just have a block that stop the end of the guide, will save time and parts

[@h82fail]

Also cyclist and I just wanted to add to your suggestions: 1. I use nice PTFE stuff and grease the cables, grease reduces the friction and makes it shift even smoother IMO. 2. Agree on the endcaps. (Edit: think your referring to the 'housing ferrule' and I'm referring to the 'cable tips' here - use both) Goes from sharp end to sharp and frayed all over and no longer possible to put endcap on easily, do them right away. Use steel wire cutters not side cutters etc. Generic work just as good as park tool IMO. Dremel cut off wheel to cut inner and outer together works as well.

[@michadonald]

I love the use of these cables, although I do have one concern that could lead to failure. These cables should always be in tension. Because they are not under a larger load it works in your test but over time the compression stability of the wire could wear out. Although it is an easy fix, on the one movement use the tension in the wire, but for the opposing motion use a spring to add tension from the opposite end.

[@michadonald]

I'm specifically talking about the mute lever to reader cable. The reader to gate cable already has a spring doing exactly that.

[@h82fail]

@@michadonald Noticed the same under the mute lever. Its a risk, works now but after friction adds up, cable gets more worn and flexible, longer runs etc. Shouldn't be hard to fit a Torsion spring on the mute cam, or I seen another person suggest using push-pull style cables made for push (not sure how lightweight those come in?).

[@Imagonem]

I think you are right. This design also routes the cable in a curve outside of the housing, and that probably makes the cable even more vulnerable to deform or unwind under compression. Once the cable strands start to unwind, the cable will no longer go smoothly into the housing.

[@Phriedah]

Is there a version of these cables which are designed for compression instead of tension?

[@michadonald9233]

I mean there are Pneumatics and hydraulics, but not exactly what we're looking for

[@HighVoltageCarnage]

I love how you made the system resilient to half hits!!!

[@MichaelAnthonyStiber]

Aloha Martin, a suggestion for a slightly better design: at 1:55 glue the foam to the stationary part, not the moving part. Less mass to move around with each marble drop and saves wear and tear and friction if the foam happens to rub against something as it travels.

[@RJ_Eckie]

This test makes me really happy! Especially how the hooks (dis)engage when the mute is switched mid-trigger

[@LIVEONTHEEDJ]

As a cyclist and design engineer that has used cable housing and cables in a similar application, also use the housing end caps (ferrules) and one barrel adjuster. Your parts should have a hole sized appropriately to receive the housing end cap, and it should be a blind hole with a captive end a small hole that only the cable goes through, not clamped as you have here. The clamp adds compression and unnecessary friction. If you look at cable actuated brakes or gear shifters on a bike, you will notice there is a threaded screw that the cable housing fits into. You use this cable to adjust the tension of the cable, which is really important and gives you an easy way to do this on the fly. One end of the cable will have the blind hole and the other will have the barrel adjuster.

[@ContraptionCollection]

I think there was fear that your engineering improvements might make the machine less mechanically interesting. This video makes it more mechanically interesting than ever. Everything seems so clever.

[@CLOUDZAUBACKUP]

Love how you go thru the whole process can't wait for the many vids to come and final product review

[@douglasburnside]

Your better cables will have a Teflon lining that will _greatly_ reduce the friction of the cables moving through the housing. As others have pointed out, do not _push_ on the cables, only _pull,_ even if it means you have to run two cables instead of one. Cables come in different diameters: thin derailleur cables, thicker brake cables. Your pulling loads are minimal compared to bicycle requirements, and the greater flexibility of the thinner cables might serve you well.

[@SweDownhill]

These are some ground breaking upgrades 👍😊🙏 The plastic tubes will wear down over time if they are bent (the string will rub against the inside of the shortest path, so you may have to tighten it every once in a while). A hydraulic equivalent might be more durable

[@gillsmoke]

I can't wait for the music vid of Martin playing music in the kitchen while also cooking

[@willemshepherd2079]

You could also 3d print a part that the Bowden cable endcap snaps directly into. Removes 4 screws from your assembly!

[@brianswille]

This has been an awesome series to watch, learning so much! Possible idea to contribute, perhaps consider teflon coated cables for less resistance and less susceptible to any effects of moisture for long term use (hope that's never a problem but something to consider if this is going to travel a lot)You probably know that shifter cables and brake cables for MTB bikes are different diameters if you need more or less rigidity. Thank you so much for sharing and bringing us on this journey. I'm just starting to create my own things in CAD and these principles and ideas of how to approach it has been really eye opening.

[@fiskfisk33]

This looks perfect for the mute system, but cable stretch will make the timing wander if you use it on the gates. I strongly believe you should use something stiffer there

[@pesterenan]

Marble Machine 3: Unconstrained! Nice one, Martin!!!

[@zygmuntthecacaokakistocrat6589]

4:20 you need in-line barrel adjusters to adjust the cable tension & and maybe just cable stops and cable ferrules instead of 4 screws to secure the outer cables to the mechanism.

[@eduardt7253]

Amazing design Martin! Keep this up and you will finish Marble Machine 3!

[@pierrefpv]

Of all the tools in your shop, the kitchen knife Chisel is the best! 😆

[@HenrikMyrhaug]

Absolutely, this is one of my favourite changes so far! It solves the huge issue with spacing of marble gates and the programming wheel, and uses a simple, reliable, easily manufactured assembly. So much less dumb than the MMX!

[@SpectraLzz]

I was thinking that maybe in the future there will be a possibility to build programming wheel with profiles that are sat on actuators and can be pushed up to play or hidden. You could switch programmed songs in a push of a button.

[@protonmaster76]

Every episode is a 10x improvement. At this rate the marble machine 3 will be 10,000,000x better. Loving the journey!

[@mindrage92]

You could use the hole in the lever by putting a rod across multiple channels to mute many at a time. I'd imagine that it could be useful to have maybe 2 or 3 loosely connected levers so you can mute different groups at a time. Might make it tighter to just mechanically connect them together in those sets you want. Maybe a modular approach where you can snap in levers in groups attached to rods already so its fast to change configs during concerts?

[@mindrage92]

the attachment mechanism could just be two pipe connections with springed pins at the outmost channels of the channel group.

[@ethanwilson1001]

[√] Spooky Mechanics Implemented - There, did that for you, Martin.

[@ohnhai]

Along with other comments and tips please let me add that Bowden WILL stretch over time and or break .. You will need to plan for easy adjustment of the cable ion the machine and you should also plan for easy release of the fixed end for quick and easy cable replacement . As Bowden is pull actin only you don't need to fully capture the end and leaving the end open will allow you to simply slide an old cable out and replace it with a new one.

[@GaryvanderMerwe]

Another tip from a cyclist: Others have recommended endcaps/ferrules. I have an easier way: put some super glue on the tip of the cable. I've never had a cable fray when doing this.

[@secret-alias]

Perhaps it's just me, but this gives me Piano vibes. Instead of pressing a key and holding it, it's basically just automated using a programming whee doing the job of the hands. And instead of the "key" only striking a string, it drops a marble on the desired instrument.

[@Apollost]

great comparison to the spooky action on a distance

[@jeanbonnefoy1377]

Literally rediscovering the bicycle 😅👍

[@dunk92]

warning! when using those cables you have to be sure to play music at the same temperature always. Because the cables will become longer when it is warm. I experience it on my bike. A difference of 10 degrees celcius can already make a difference, my brake doesn't work as good and I have to adjust the brake settings again.

[@danielparizeau1]

As excited as I am to see progress, I feel a little sad that that the machine is using wires, in the same vein of not manually spinning the crank by hand. It's becoming a mean lean fighting machine for sure, but in my opinion, losing the character it had at the start. I know you've struggled with this whole idea, but at this point it's hard to see, Pin pushes lever, lever actuates marble holder, marble drops onto instrument. Now it's Here's some pins that have wires running from them, It can actuate a marble holder... somewhere, that drops a marble onto an instrument. It takes a connection point out of the machine. As you said, it's "spooky action at a distance". Negatives aside, I love the project and will keep watching the path that you take. MM3 will be amazing.

[@edale2]

you could probably coat some graphite powder on the cable inside the bowden cable to reduce the friction in it.

[@dustymooneye5858]

Something dawned on me while you showed the mock programming wheel that might be worth testing and looking into: What would happen if the programming profile is played while inserted the wrong way around? (In software engineering terms, you'd be testing an unhappy flow here ;) ) A profile being the wrong way around should never be happening in theory, but it may be very likely to happen at some point under the pressure of reprogramming during a concert.

[@hugodivalinov2909]

Maybe test the longer cable with loops at the more frequently used point between programming wheel-reader and marble gate instead of at the mute system. Wear and tear will be significantly higher there, and the timings are of more importance. Right now, you are testing the optimal case. But you want it to work in the worst case. Besides that you should take the feedback in the other comments seriously:) love the progress, love the testing. Seems promissing.

[@stabilini]

I love it. It would be perfect if the reader could raise up when channel is muted so it won't touch programming thing.

[@renaissanceman5847]

Martin will never finish this machine. He is not interested in a world tour, he’s more interested in keeping his machine in a perpetual state of modification to milk as much money from the YT system until he has amassed enough funds to retire.

[@d_vibe-swe]

Wintergatan Wednesday ❤ Although I watched the video on a Thursday ;) This system seems very robust! I think you're into something here.

[@Kurtaurus]

wow Locktide 401, that's what we use at work, too. It's the best superglue

[@lambo_drives]

3:52 success!

[@Joburgbass]

How on Gods beautiful blue earth do you build not on but two marble machines … and don’t have a chisel!? 😂

[@Mainyehc]

*Now* we’re playing-by-wire! ;)

[@KiddsockTV]

Great Function with the cables

[@karmakarmakarma]

You may never read this, but I think the two little coil springs in the back of the mute lever to force it to 10 oclock or 2 oclock will be a problem over time. Maybe something that's more like a leaf spring would be much more reliable.

[@Yrtiop]

Man that's beautiful !

[@treyjust1825]

I really want to see that kitchen knife after you used it as a chisel... Also, love the small scale testing to really figure these things out.

[@andron967]

Look at a motorcycle clutch cable. The angle of the cable changes at the lever. The cable must be able to rotate at the lever. If it doesn't the cable flexes at that point. The cable fatigue causes it to fail at that point. It must be able to swivel.

[@harrisontasoff8724]

This is a game changer!

[@Pscribbled]

Looks awesome!

[@Huntracony]

Please put a loop in the top bowden cable for the test next week.

[@chandelballard6427]

I saw on a documentary that Albert Einstein did not believe quantum entanglement was real.

[@lwriker1304]

There is a geometry method to attach the cables in which you have to one piece instead of two pieces plus screws. I use it where I work with motorized windows. I can not give it to you as it may be a trade secret where I work. Still, if you know it exists, you may find it. Good luck.

[@EXPLODINGETDOOD]

If these Bowden cables don’t work you might have to use hydraulic lines. Looking good though Martin, I have faith in these cables

[@elijahwitt6761]

Great work!

[@nicrodel]

Super exciting spooky action!

[@travisanderson5521]

Brilliant. but the one foam block will break down over time, is there anything else you could use that would have better longevity?

[@kingpatrick1265]

damn look at this progress

[@TomLeg]

Very nice!

[@jespermller6956]

How about a programming wheel for the muting arms, then it can play a whole song on its own.

[@cryptowars2165]

Awesome bro

[@robertjohnkemp]

How about leather on the surface of the programming wheel receiver piece? The felt will fray and fluff over time...

[@Makawish]

Gooooood

[@sabata2]

Well, I'm still not pleased with his insistence on a programming wheel, but the rest of the build *is* coming together in a modular fashion, AND are focusing on function over form. It may not be perfect, but it looks like he'll actually make it happen now.

[@EeeTeePwnHome]

Martin you are so cool

[@JK-lj4lp]

A drop of super glue on the cut cable end will help prevent them from fraying.

[@Spiloq]

Pls, don't forget about MMX. I still want to see it play at least in one video just like MM1

[@the_xsx]

I've fell off the loop for the past 3 years, is he still building marble machine? That's a One Piece level ongoing-series

[@arturskovrigo3915]

It looks like MM3 will be too good

[@TheTwoFailerLP]

Whats happening, when the cabel is stuck and the programmingwheel puts force on the "hooks".

[@mousetreat]

Aaand look for SOLID bowden cabels. These twisted cables are not meant voor push action. Only pull.

[@dynorat12]

you will have play with the cable and they can stretch

[@AndyHope970]

how would this be used to mute multiple channels (i.e. separate base, drum, and vibraphone)? would there be multiple cables attached to one arm?

[@merkel_user]

If he is already using bike parts than when is he using bike rims for the programming wheel

[@caspermartijn]

Good concept. But avoid it since it will remove the astatic for the machine

[@kitsura]

Hydraulic lines next?

[@bilexperten]

I don't like the adjustment in the reader. Should be at the source in the programming pin. If so you can change the drums and tracks and keep all adjustments in the actual program.

[@Wintergatan]

Spooky mechanical Action at a distance you know

[@Wintergatan_2]

So Spooky!

[@catcraft2137]

@@Wintergatan_2 Sure it is!

[@GenuineBucket]

I obviously never knew Einstein personally, but I'd like to think he'd appreciate the mixture of engineering and art you put into this project.

[@Darkblitz9]

Is it weird that "Spooky Action at a Distance" is the first thing that came to my mind when you first showed the cables?

[@kancelas]

Are you planning to completely mute the machine except for the instruments you'll be playing or are the marbles gates supposed to be a some sort of musical instrument?

[@paulbolus9399]

As a bike mechanic from Amsterdam i have a few tips: Use an end-STOP for the outer cable, this way you don't have to clamp the outer cable which could add friction or indjuce miss-adjustment over time! Also I would not suggest these inner cables for pushing motions unless you have a spring pulling on the other side!

[@SoloRenegade]

yes, he should keep the cable in tension either with a spring or self-righting mechanism/feature (counterweight?), I completely agree with you.

[@TEDodd]

Solution for push is use a solid core instead of twisted strands. Has worked for a long time for choke control on engines. Also used for other automotive controls where you need push as well as pull. Like the slider for temperature control. For such applications the sleeve can be the cheaper style with a spiral of metal (like brake cables) instead of the expensive type with lengthwise stands (for indexed shifters).

[@PhreakDarkSoul]

@@TEDodd Spiral housing cables will change the length if you bend them like in the video. Braking cables are not a good choise for this project.

[@TEDodd]

@@PhreakDarkSoul spiral housings are fine for this application. The precise positioning need for indexed shifters isn't required. The marble gate is pull only, just like brakes. Use a solid core for the push-pull, operation of the other part. It works fine for throttles, chokes, and moving doors to control airflow. My mower and tiller use them. There are 4 for temperature/airflow on my '71 Super Beetle. Most are bare metal sprial housings.

[@nurbsfoto]

I scrolled down to comments looking for this one :D

[@mrtnsnp]

Absolutely lovely use of some off the shelf components. And bike parts, much approved. A few remarks: * Get yourself a cable cutter, available from a bike shop. These cutters will make a clean cut and do much less damage to the cable. * The steel cables will fray, always use ferrules on the ends that you cut. I'm sure the bike shop will be happy to show you what these are and how to apply them. * Add some sort of spring or tensioning mechanism to the remote end of the Bowden cable. You'll want to have the inner cable under tension. Do not rely on the push from the inner cable. This is done correctly for the dropper mechanism, but I fear that the mute mechanism as you currently have it may fail.

[@macedindu829]

I was going to say the same thing. The cables are designed to operate under tension. I wouldn't put too much faith in their ability to consistently operate under compression. Either spring load the cam, or somehow design it so that wants to flop back to a home position some other way.

[@TEDodd]

Solution for push is use a solid core instead of twisted strands. Has worked for a long time for choke control on engines. Also used for other automotive controls where you need push as well as pull. Like the slider for temperature control. For such applications the sleeve can be the cheaper style with a spiral of metal (like brake cables) instead of the expensive type with lengthwise stands (for indexed shifters).

[@kainenable]

I have a dual cable system for the throttle on my motorcycle. That way it does not have to rely on the pushing of the cable, it is pulling in both directions, which makes it much more immediate and reliable.

[@billkeithchannel]

Someone suggested solid wire cables like they use for automotive applications for push/pull situations.

[@macedindu829]

@@kainenable that's pretty good, but it's also double the casings and cables and, presumably, friction.

[@sliceofsparta8985]

I LOVE all this small scale testing! Your streams were incredible brainstorm and modeling sessions but THIS is where the real magic happens! Very refreshing to see how practical and hands-on the MM3 journey has become!

[@Dannerrrr]

Same. wish he had done small scale programming wheel testing.

[@mescey5059]

All in time, the progression is fantastic, proof that starting when you aren’t prepared but are set on finishing can be beneficial if you ar e paying attention. Love this so much

[@daniellima4391]

Most of the designing and cading is now offline, so we only see the more exciting tests

[@benediktzwolfer4193]

Hey Martin, one suggestion, bowden cables should only be used for pulling, not pushing. Not only for better performance, the cable can bend on the outside of the tube where the lever is and not push into the tube. To get rid of this issue you can integrate a spring or rotational spring on the other end of the cable (where it's attached to the programming part). Great progress so far, i love it!!

[@TEDodd]

Solution for push is use a solid core instead of twisted strands. Has worked for a long time for choke control on engines. Also used for other automotive controls where you need push as well as pull. Like the slider for temperature control. For such applications the sleeve can be the cheaper style with a spiral of metal (like brake cables) instead of the expensive type with lengthwise stands (for indexed shifters).

[@DavidByrden1]

>> "bowden cables should only be used for pulling" But...an ordinary cable can pull without pushing. The whole POINT of Bowden cables is that they can push as well as pull.

[@ezekielcaldwell4990]

This is what I was thinking. They are not meant to push. It could be set up to pull the top part up so the hook does not connect, similar to how it looked when he unmuted while it was lifted. This does depend on the flexibility of the 3d printed material and its ability to fall back to its original position reliably.

[@jdmjesus6103]

@@DavidByrden1 that's not right at all. Stranded core cables like that are meant for pulling only. Bowden cables aren't the same as an un sheathed cable, they are designed to pull through indirect directions, without further complications like pulleys etc. Pushing on a stranded core cable will cause issues. Most likely leading to a jam.

[@tiper2107]

@@DavidByrden1 No, as @TEDodd says, to push you must have a rigid cable. By pushing the cable will take more and more bending on its free part then end up twisting in this free part without the system at the other end moving. If you have seen systems that give you this impression, it is because you have seen that the joystick side and the other side of the system were in permanent tension with a spring, for example.

[@2003z440]

Not sure if you considered it, but it would probably be beneficial to build a bit of a shoulder into your Bowden cable holder. That will let the casing rest against something and not just rely on the friction fit.

[@PabloEdvardo]

this is purely prototype

[@JohnR31415]

Almost as if he should look at how pedal cycles hold the same bowden cables …

[@110110010]

@@PabloEdvardo true, but it's still worth pointing out

[@zedudli]

The ones on bikes get stuck all the time

[@JohnR31415]

@@zedudli they really don’t - and of course they’re in a far less mechanically friendly environment as well.

[@sumguy2858]

When testing the cables make sure to test vastly different lengths. Make sure that a 2 meter cable doesn't introduce more delay than a 10 cm cable. I'm sure there will be some point where the amount of play inside the cable will become an issue.

[@Sembazuru]

I was thinking the same thing, but the timing critical point in this design is when the programming reader releases and the spring in the ball-dropper pulls the cable back in. There shouldn't be any play because the cable is under tension at this point. My only concern is the springs in the ball-dropper not being strong enough to pull a long cable through the bowden tube. The longer the bowden tube (especially if there are bends), the higher the friction. But how much higher I honestly don't have a feel for.

[@tiper2107]

@@Sembazuru I think he really has to do the test actually in different length conditions and especially the longest length with the biggest twist he wants to use. Honestly the system of bowden cables allows you to transmit an effort but not to be precise to the millisecond. Even if the timing is tight there is no chance that it will release exactly consistently as soon as there is a twist and a slightly longer length. And the worst is that unlike rigid systems, new and used behavior will be extremely different. I think it's the first mmx 3 thing that won't stay or die.

[@Chevsilverado]

If a long cable has a predictable delay it could be compensated for easily. Delay isn’t an issue necessarily but unpredictability is.

[@tomwhipp3245]

You should have a look at bike hardware for pinching cables, they would reduce the size of parts dramatically and make it much easier to adjust. Add ferules to the end of your outer too! In my experience, you can use cycle oil in the outer to improve the friction. just let it pour down over the gear wire. With a lot of channels on the bi-stable mechanism i imagine the friction could add up!

[@karlmikko]

Bowden cables generally are not good to push the wire - but rather pull. With a spring pulling in the opposite direction from the other end to get control in both directions. As the wire is prone to buckle when pushing in.

[@AxelSjoberg]

Hej Martin! FYI there are also push/pull bowden cables that will work in both directions if you ever have any issues with the slack. These are normally used on lawn mower hand throttles for ex.

[@michadonald6057]

Totally agree, although I'm not sure if they are as flexible as might be required on the MM3. Definitely something to look at.

[@TiloDroid]

Making the radius of the lever and mute different such that the angles are different has made my mathematical heart glow up like the sun, incredibly genius

[@roberthopwood3758]

If that's what floats your boat, you would love gearboxes.

[@Papinak2]

Take a look on cable operated throttle valve - basically same thing, relatively small angle of throttle pedal is translated to nearly 90° rotation

[@willb5961]

Hey Martin, just wanted to add a quick little tip for the bike cables and housing. I was a bicycle mechanic for many years, and whenever I'd do cable replacements I would always make sure to put some extra lubricant (I used Tri-Flow, but im sure other similar lubes would be fine). The extra lube does two things: 1. it helps prevent rusting of the cable inside and 2. it lets the cable inside glide much smoother. I would add just a few drops of lube per foot of housing or so. Love your journey, and if you ever have any questions about bicycles I'd be happy to help :) Edit: I saw some other comments mentioning ferrules, and I highly recommend those as well. You can buy them for pennies a piece and will go a long ways in preserving your cable housing. Also, while cables do stretch a little bit, most of the perceived "stretching" comes from the housing, ferrules, and associated hardware setting into place. An easy way to "pre stretch" your cables is to just use some good ol elbow grease and pull the cable taught and then relax it over and over using your arm strength.

[@rickwilliams967]

How do I get a job that's that ridiculously specific and make money off of it?

[@mds7245]

Can you imagine he makes the perfect marble machine and he post all the blue prints for everyone to make at home lol

[@azyfloof]

The flat plane prototyping gives me the warm fuzzy nostalgia, harking back to an earlier Wintergatan. I like it 😀 I'm really glad you're keeping the modules from the previous iteration of the Marble Machine that worked for you, and worked well. That gives me a lot more hope that we'll see a working Marble Machine 🥰 I'm also really glad the bowden cables work as well as they do and friction seems not to be an issue! I was really worried about that.

[@FrankKatzenberger]

Please put the foam on the programming pin so it's easily replaceable when it wears out

[@GBR6000]

True but given the number of programming pins it is significantly more manufacturing operations. Maybe making the finger on the reader easier to replace.

[@giddycadet]

i think it's better to keep it on the reader because you only have to replace it once

[@minuteman1043]

You want the wear to be on the reader as to minimize complexity. If any part of the pins can wear the design is inherently flawed. A foam or a soft plastic pad on a few dozen readers is far easier to replace than hundreds of pin pads.

[@FrankKatzenberger]

He will be adding and removing programming pins for songs. It's far easier to replace pins as needed. It's the same complexity overall.

[@d.lawrencemiller5755]

That "no half hits" guarantee is genius and the new simpler system makes it all the more apparent. Everything is coming together so much smarter. I was already impressed with your first two machines. This one is gonna be stunning.

[@heikoharders]

These bowden cables on my bike tend to stretch after time. The force used when hitting the brakes is probably much higher than on the marble machine, but it may hurt tightness of playing over time (or may require constant adjustment).

[@kaasmeester5903]

You get similar issues with mechanical linkage, I imagine. Material may expand or contract with changes in temperature or humidity. Maybe the reality is that the MM will need the timings readjusted before every performance.

[@tiper2107]

@@kaasmeester5903 Or else it's a bad solution, there were others. And no: in the introspection on the previous model, he says that he wants to move towards more simplicity and less manipulation, not having to readjust the system of the machine every 1000 notes.

[@paradocs2474]

Be careful with the measurements of those wires because the length of the core can change depending on the curve of the sheath. I know it can cause some problems when it's use to move something, but some careful measures and cuts should be enough in your case... Good luck for your awesome project !!

[@fordprefect9027]

Martin have you already taken a closer look at the mechanics of a piano key for inspiration? It's a rather complex but proven design known for excellent control, silent on rebound etc.

[@jedynywiking]

Now it's a challenge! You absolutely need to mute-unmute Marble Machine while cooking! :D

[@creageous]

and taking a shower. LOL

[@davidgustavsson4000]

Cooking stream when?

[@jacobfreeman]

Gotta watch out for that cable stretch. Short cables stretch less, and less strain in the cables will stretch less. But they do stretch. I'd also consider barrel adjusters just like bikes have to adjust the tension easily.

[@HarryPorpise]

huh, I didn’t know that Bowden tube/cable wasn’t an exclusive term for 3d printing. The more you know!

[@rexmcstiller4675]

There are a few in your car. Handbrake, gas throttle, clutch, shifting lever, window opener, heater flaps, inner door handle trunk release.......

[@sebastianreitebuch2906]

The Bowden cable was patented on August 23, 1898 by Ernest Monnington Bowden (Patent US609570A). The 3D printer probably came a little later.

[@HarryPorpise]

@@sebastianreitebuch2906 no Im pretty sure that they were around back then

[@CheveeDodd]

I'm so excited for what's to come. All these little tests are super interesting.

[@NKCubed]

I feel like the black 3D printed parts and their cool clean look really represents the whole ethos of the MM3, feels like we're flying right now with all the progress that's being made!

[@tinman7551]

Do yourself a favor and buy Jagwire gear selection cables, only use the very best with the new marble machine ❤😊🎉

[@nateking6629]

WOO new wintergatan video!!!