These Games Workshop Products are TRASH

[@LylaMev]

Do you agree with my opinions, or did I get something wrong?

[@JadeHarleyCoffeeMug]

offended at palette paper 😂

[@LylaMev]

@@JadeHarleyCoffeeMug I AM. HOW DARE THEY

[@justarandomname420]

KITTY!

[@Frostfly]

Pretty much, most of the tools I use for mini painting are the same as I use for my job (jeweler) but I use the old stuff for mini painting, cuz Metal is more difficult to work with then plastic or resin(which I also use for my job). I use the same water cup as you, it's a great product. I designed and printed my own painting handle. being able to design arms on the fly is handy. Only complaint, please don't' plug Hobby Lobby, they are actively hateful. Thanks for the great video!

[@oakes3902]

Agree!

[@Grovesrussell]

My biggest tip - get yourself a sander cleaner block. We use them in woodworking to clean out sandpapers, files, teeth etc. Will not only save you money by making your sanding items last longer but clean sanders will save you so much time over a project

[@TheAtomicSpoon]

A firm bristle toothbrush also works for small hobby needle files.

[@Mystic1031]

I agree with 98% of your take. I do personally love contrast paints and own the entire range. But why? I have a extremely bad tremor in my hands. Contrast paints have given me the ability to paint that other wise I wouldn’t be about to do. They also gave me the time to learn techniques that with out then I would of wrecked a ton of models attempting to paint with little success. Having gotten a better understanding of how to paint with my tremor by using contrast paints I’m now able to use more advanced techniques to enhance my work.

[@Benry87]

Contrast paints are amazing, Army Painter has a similar product for about half the price.

[@Mystic1031]

@@Benry87 nope not with the reactivate issue. If 2.0 turns out to be as good or better cool. Now had you said Vallejo new version I’d agree

[@LylaMev]

Glad they have helped you!

[@Mystic1031]

I’ve now been able to paint for almost 2yrs. This June will be 2. Love your videos and that kitty I’ve purfection

[@TheGeneral308]

Only thing from GW I would buy is the Contrast paints as well. Although I am really wanting to try out the new Vallejo Color Express. There version of Contrast paints.

[@JadeHarleyCoffeeMug]

“games workshop doesn’t want you to know” is becoming the “dermatologists HATE her for this one weird trick!” of mini painting youtube 😂

[@LylaMev]

Give me a better title!

[@grimmriffer]

@Lyla Mev - The Mini Witch How about... "GW tries to sell this youtuber overpriced tools, gets DESTROYED instantly!!" 🤔

[@MoPost]

“Uncatchable thief LITERALLY GLITTERBOMBED by bodacious painting trickster HD 8k” “400% cheaper! Games Workshop’s TOXIC waste - going green with GOO”

[@sake3857]

@@LylaMev straight up sounds like PH 🟧⬛ advertisment 🫣 (A friend told me about those 👀)

[@MoPost]

Forgot “featuring Mochi cat”

[@sixtwentysix]

This is a very useful video that I sent to a friend that has gotten into the hobby. So true about pro-acryl paints. Also, your english has gotten so good! Keep up the great videos!

[@marcharrison5712]

I enjoyed this video. There is one GW item that I have found useful and worth the cost. I teach monthly painting workshops at a local art studio and often have kids that participate. I like using the GW mould line tool rather than a dull hobby knife with the kids for safety. I like that I can teach them how to use a knife without giving them a knife. I am also finding that as I am getting older and my hands don't work as well that I go for the GW mould line tool rather than my hobby knife.

[@Winterydee]

Pro tip: Just use the backside (the none sharpened edge) of the hobby knife for scraping mold lines. It really works just as well, if not better than the GW tool. Now for little kids, under the age of 13... yeah, I can see having them use the GW tool. But for anyone 13 and older, well like I said above.

[@dominicmetzger3246]

Too bad they replaced the really nice mould line remover with a cheaper one a few months ago.

[@nicholassinnett2958]

@@Winterydee I don't mind the mould line remover, it tends to give a smoother result than the back of a scalpel blade IMO. Still need a knife for recesses though, and I tend to do the final polish with 1200-grit sandpaper these days anyway, so it rarely matters. As for why the tool exists, kids are my theory. I wouldn't be surprised if the sole reason it's a thing is because they needed an alternative to sell to kids.

[@Winterydee]

@Nicholas Sinnett - Personally I was building model kits by age 10, if not earlier, with limited help from my father... back in the mid 1980's. So I'm a little jaded as far as how young someone can start using a hobby knife.

[@BlackCoyote66]

For model holders for spraying, if you go into a hardware store that sells housepaint, ask for a paint mixer, which is basically a big flat wooden stick. They'll likely give them to you for free. With double face tape or bluetack, you can line up models for priming just as easily as the overpriced Citadel plastic thing. I also bought Citadel's Liquid Greenstuff - that's money I'm not getting back ever, and rue the day I thought it might be useful. Also, hat tip to Marco Frissoni, Montana Black spray paints are awesome premium spray paints at regular hardware store prices! They're usually found in art stores, so one probably would have to order them online, but they come in way more colors than Citadel.

[@brucekinghorn4961]

Citadel paints dry out in the pot very quickly in a hot climate (Queensland Australia) and become unusable blocks of pigment. I put this down to the awful caps on the pots which rapidly get clogged with paint residue. This makes the paints basically an expensive waste of time. The performance of the paint would be vastly improved with a simple screw cap. Loved all your comments about GW products, Thanks Lyla.

[@withDefiance]

The screw cap they had before was even worse. I think we can call it planned obsolescence. They hope your pain will get fckd so you will buy new. It's a devious sales plan which is part of why so many people have started to hate their snuff-dealer.

[@Insmouth]

just add some distilled water and pass trough vortex mixer and its all new.

[@artistpoet5253]

5:08 I make my own out of empty pots filled with sand or the tube/core from baking paper capped at both ends by old 40mm bases or the tokens from a disused KT set. Blue tack holds the models down. 6:21 speaking of old KT sets, I've been using the strategem cards for dry palettes and for a wet palette, just a damp paper towel covered with baking paper.

[@lexzbuddy]

I am short sighted. A magnifying visor is a must. There are many out there to choose from. The larger ones seem more comfortable for prolonged use. The wee ones that are like glasses begin to bite in to my skin in no time but everyone is different. Make sure you get ones that come with multiple lenses, makes life so much simpler and reduces eye strain. You can stick soft foam onto the band if it gets slippery or feels uncomfortable. A thin strip will do. Get the type with adhesive backing on one side.

[@beatsandpiecesstudio]

I've been watching so many miniature videos to procrastinate actually starting. This is giving me the /tools/ to stop doing that and just start 😁 Slowly

[@seppingtondestamina9398]

I quite like the Citadel paints (mostly) and I really love their primer as it's quicker and less hassle than having to clean my airbrush out. Have to agree that their tools are way way way too expensive and there are much better cheaper options out there. As a scale modeller I knew before I got into minis the power of Tamiya Extra Thin, it is hands-downs the best glue for this stuff, and versatile for sprue goo as you say (though I'm tempted by a tip I saw recently to use milliput thinned with alcohol instead). I designed and 3d-printed my own wet pallette after trying to use a Ferrero Rocher box for a while (too fragile) and it works great!

[@charlescarpenter9098]

Two comments: First, thank you for the demonstration of that arm on the mini holder. I never understood what that was for! Second, Uncle Atom has one good use for liquid green stuff. He uses it to add a fabric type texture to large blank cloth like the nighthaunts. Not saying it's a great idea or for everyone, but it is one very very niche use for it.

[@LylaMev]

I've never heard that one!

[@bsal3579]

Absolutely spot on. Most people aren't willing to do a little bit of research on most anything and just consume whatever is in front of them, which in the long run ends up costing them so much more.

[@brionl4741]

For spray sticks, I go to home Depot or Lowe's and grab a couple of the 5 gallon paint stirring sticks then use double sided tape to hold on the minis. They are big enough to hold most squads, and you can flip it around to spray from all sides, even underneath.

[@jaymaxwell8645]

1:56 it's still an even safer alternative to a dull exacto blade which a new comer may not have in the first place. I use a combination of both but mainly stick to the mould line remover because I don't need to have any hesitation when scraping. 4:02 regular acetone can be used as well

[@scantrahan]

Love the reviews and great to hear about the alternative contrast paints. My top three equipment tips are: 1)Parchment paper over a wet paper towel is my cheap $2 wet palette for dry apartments. The water will partially bleed through, so paints can get watered down if your towel is soggy. 2)Save old toothbrushes for cleaning off primer and paint when stripping miniatures but mark them clearly! 3)Play with the cat/dog first so they don't get too excited while you are painting, I've had foster cats learn they will get my attention by stealing my brush or what I'm painting, and to be fair they do get my attention

[@ralexs]

Wishing Mochi a speedy recovery. I can sympathize one of my pups got sick right before Thanksgiving last year and had to get emergency surgery plus spend a couple days at the vet's. She bounced back fine, but it was a scary several days.

[@bendlance]

Ever tried the GSI Creos Brushes ? They are synthetic but I haven't had tip issues yet ...knock on wood.

[@Geordiecrafts]

This was a great video Lyla! I'll have to try out some of that proacryl, it's a brand I've never used and I'm trying to move away from citadel paints. Also the purring at the end was adorable ❤

[@warpdrivedude]

Love the video! Great coverage of possible tools for the hobby that outpace GW! Thanks!

[@FauxNorth]

Comments for Mochi! I'm glad to see you talk about alternatives for these. Citadel paints are (unfortunately) the only option at game stores in my area. While I like the Contrast paints I've picked up, I do wish I had more options available locally.

[@jaroderickson2567]

I bought a Citadel scraper when I first got into the hobby because I thought I "needed" it, but it has come in handy a lot of times, so I think it's a worthwhile purchase. I bought liquid Green Stuff once; never, never again.

[@lordofhyphens]

I have one of the old scrapers, it's fine for being a stamped piece of metal. Definitely not particularly needed for adults (as the back of a blade will do equivalent or better 99% of the time), but I also don't have to worry about a kid cutting themselves on the moldline remover.

[@lexzbuddy]

I made a DIY light arch using some aluminium strip, a couple of brackets, strips of wood for feet and an LED strip kit with power supply and remote to vary brightness. Get the 6500 K or in other words daylight white as the colours are more accurate as the light is pure white. 20 to 25 mm wide Ali strip, gently bend into a wide arc another head height above desk surface, say 700mm . Leave about 6" straight each end to form verticals. Drill a couple holes and attach 2 90 degree brackets both sides. 2 as it won't stay up with just one. Screw it onto wood strips to act as a base (feet). Now stick the LEDs to the aluminium strip; I did a double row. Connect ends and power / remote. Turn on and enjoy painting with all round, shadow free lighting.

[@seamus6387]

I just use spray glue to stick automotive sandpaper to sticks. Can make them the grit you need and it's wet/dry sandpaper. Can also glue it to fabric or whatever and bam, flexible sandpaper strips.

[@lordofhyphens]

For larger applications there are multiple printable designs to use for sanding sticks that don't use glue. The smallest detail ones of course would be glued

[@velinion1]

Good video. I've been using repurposed flush cutters meant for soldering, sanding sticks, and an off-brand exacto knife for ages. I 3d print most of my minis, so just use an extra drop of the 3d printer resin for glue - a UV flashlight ($40ish probably my most expensive tool aside from the 3d printer itself) makes it cure in close to a second. Since the parts are made of the same resin it's about as good as a bond can be.

[@johnathanproctor9606]

I'm glad to see another Game Envy fan! I use the hobby holder pretty much exclusively, and like you said, it's supporting a small business family! I think I've got one of just about everything he sell.

[@lucasvyner1502]

General advice. go to your local electronics store for clippers, slightly more than online but then i've seen budget online ones snap blades. Blades find a "cheapie" store that does art/craft. You'll find an exacto set that craps on anything name brand (look around for the sets with metal collets in the handles vs plastic, they last a lot longer) and usually the files as well.

[@naphaneal]

I make sanding sticks by glueing sandpaper strips to coffee stirrers. The Artificer XS brush from GW is decent but costs ~29€... Have you tried the new AV Xpress colors?

[@LylaMev]

They're supposed to send me some!

[@oreettroll]

I'll second the two GameEnvy products you mentioned. I got one of their wet palettes over the summer, was my first time using a wet palette, and it's been such a game-changer for me. Their model holders are great, especially for batch painting. You have one handle, and you put all the models in a single unit onto individual soda caps. Twist one models' cap onto the holder, paint the section you're doing, remove that cap, and grab the next one to repeat.

[@beneisen6982]

Love the whole concept of this video! There are so many good pieces of gear that you don't need the brand name logo for. Also Mochi looks so happy in your lap.

[@davedogge2280]

5:46 product endorsed officially my Alfred Hitchcock's "Psycho" - mine newly opened was bone dry in the pot.

[@jherazob]

Fully agree, yeah. And about Contrast, by now they have many direct competitors, seems like Vallejo will be the ultimate drop-in replacement but all the others have their pros and cons. Also, if you're committed to the hobby you should consider an airbrush, even a super-cheap one, as a general replacement for spraycan primers, only using those in limited cases (big armies for example, a spraycan will cover that in seconds while an airbrush will take longer).

[@TimDBarnett]

I watch your posts to take your advice and opinions for painting figures, like Dragons, lizards, and some prehistoric creatures are my main choices for airbrushing and miniature figure painting. Thanks for all you do Lyla Mev!

[@Entropy114]

These kinds of videos are great for newbies like myself! I've already fallen for a few of the GW marketing gimmicks and am starting to recognize what's a valuable aspect of a product vs. just a brand name upcharge. Having the cheaper alternatives is always helpful (because jeez this hobby can get expensive if you just blindly buy the brand stuff).

[@neologian1783]

Ditto X10

[@michaellawhorn1355]

This is great -- the only addition I would have is to get paint stirrers for free from your local hardware store ... You can glue five or six models to the stick, which is about 28mm wide and have great control over where your primer goes.

[@loganasaurusrex8246]

Thanks for the tutorial! Good luck on the contest! I hope you win!

[@LylaMev]

Thank you!!

[@justarandomname420]

The Army Painter brush set is increadible value. Still running strong after two years and basic maintenance. The Artis Opus dry brushes were a luxury treat. Great brushes and presentation. Their textured dry pallet adds to my productivity and is fun to reprime when it's trashed with paints. Krylon and Testors are must haves for hobby nerds. Tetors in particular has been around for decades and knows their stuff. Their Easy Lift Off is great for stripping models. No amount of tool purchasing has made me a better painter. Practice is the only thing that adds to your skill level. I'm still stoked when I Slap Chop and keep it mostly within the lines. Painting tiny statues is difficult at best!

[@schlitzie72]

you are spot on for much of these, though I would like to add on to your cardboard method for priming. I usually use paint stirring sticks and double sided tape for priming a squad of minis. Just stick a strip of tape on stirrer, line them up on the tape, grab your primer, and go to town. The sticks are quite cheap (sometimes free if you're lucky enough) and can be reused nearly indefinitely. The priciest bit would be the tape, but only marginally so. Also Army Painter Speed Paints are a cheaper alternative to GW's Contrast line.

[@brendanarmstrong7802]

10:10 Look at that pleased expression on that cat. It just likes sitting there listening to your voice.

[@LylaMev]

He knows the world revolves around him

[@dan8402]

I agree across the board on most of this. I mainly do model trains and plastic models. I purchased a $35 modeling kit with cutting mat nippers, tweezers, files, sand paper, sanding sticks etc etc etc. 55 pieces in all including a hand held drill with bits. Those nippers work great actually. Only use them to cut plastic. At some point I am sure I will replace it with a $15 nipper but three models down and some train work and still sharp as ever. I love the thin Tamiya glue and also use the medium loctite which fills gaps a little. With my wood modeling I use white glue, and for some of the train work epoxy like jb weld. It depends on the materials I am bonding. For paints I try to stay away from enamels or things that need thinner. I love the Vellejo and Tamiya paints. The pigment is amazing. You can thin the paints down to almost an ink consistency and still get coverage. Vellejo I thin using a water based thinner I make and I use IPA for Tamiya. If you are running through an airbrush you can almost get six bottles of Tamiya out of one bottle of uncut paint. Yes the pigment is that strong. Both can be thinned out to get a glaze consistency but you need to play with it. Would love to see reviews on low cost airbrushes. Most folks starting out can’t afford a high end Iwata or Steinbeck. Even though the machining in those are amazing. Unless this is a business most are going to grab a master airbrush off of Amazon. I have a large compressor with two water traps and drop the pressure down three times from 135 PSI to 20. I mention the master airbrush because two things. You can get parts for it on Amazon or TCP Global. It also has a large paint well opening which is easier to clean. With a little setup, cleaning and lubing the threads, and polishing the needles, you can have a nice working airbrush for a lot of applications. I will say if you can afford a Badger, Iwata, or other name brand the fit and finish will be well worth it if you do a lot of modeling. I have found champagne corks work great for holding miniatures. A couple pieces of scrap wood with tape on it holds multiple pieces in place for primming. No need for fancy stuff. One thing I will say is have a good set of lights to light your work area. You didn’t cover that but I purchased an LED lamp with magnifying glass on it for around $25. My eyes for things up close are what they used to be. It really helps me see better. I honestly don’t even use a wet pallet. Shocking. I have one of those cheep plastic pallet plates and only put in just a couple of drops of paint to do what I need to. It works well for me in most applications.

[@jerryvolpini7987]

Right?! Pretty much agree with everything you said and find this is true in just about every hobby. Some company takes a generic product, either something they created or something that someone else made, slap a fancy sticker on it and then charge us some ridiculous amount of money. Or, they invent solutions for problems that just don't exist 🤷‍♂️ The worse part, people new to the hobby think they 'need' these products to get great results and often become frustrated and disillusioned. I love that you are honest and forthcoming and put your viewers ahead of blindly recommending a product to make a buck 👍

[@fotomakr]

Like the synopsis. Did the homemade wet palette thing. Then tried the Masterson Sta-Wet Palette. Game changer. Paint thins nicely and I can get several days of painting in - long enough to paint my 1/48 dudes.

[@paintnamer6403]

I love your smile that purring brings.

[@MrEllahrairah]

I became a big Tamiya fan boy when I lived in Japan... their modelling supplied (clippers, knives, files.. etc) are the best quality I have found out there.

[@gi1dor]

Tamiya products are great, but not cheap either (outside of Japan at least)

[@pk-vk3oc]

Wishing Mochi a speedy recovery!

[@chipstercamarillo9373]

That is one happy kitty. I use a classic exacto knife. But it's true that a trip to the hardware store can get you a lot of tools really cheap

[@jordanbeard6687]

So much yes, and this video is something I have been saying for years. It's not just GW either, a lot of the mini's specific tools are just jacked up in price. Yes, GW is the most egregious example of it though. Files: Dollar store nail files, plus the sanding sticks you highlighted = savings of $15, that's a couple extra minis or paints. The Paint stick, instead I use a free paint stir stick from the hardware store and blue tack plus free rubber bands, my total cost is

[@Darkbirdy]

More comments: All polystyrene cements melt the plastic - it's the basis for how they work. One big advantage of Tamiya's thin (before you add the sprue) is that you can place tiny pieces together, touch the cement to the join, and capillary action will suck the glue out of the brush and into the joint, leaving a very clean gluing area. You can also paint it over a flat area and dab it with an old brush to add texture (warning - this works be softening the entire surface.) I'm going to look at the hobby holder, but I just collect old medicine bottles, fill them with salt (for ballast to keep them from tipping over), and put a lump of museum putty (not poster putty!) on top. For the spray stick, I just bought a bulk pack of wood paint stirrers (the type used for house paint), which is a lifetime's supply. They also work great for painting large groups. And... out of time. I may add more later, when my wife isn't glaring at me because I'm watching mini videos when we were supposed to leave ten minutes ago. Oops.

[@morrielewin1554]

Lots of money saving tips, the best one is avoiding marked-up "name" brands when cheaper alternatives are available. I went the "gotta have the tools first" route (always be prepared, right?) and didn't get into painting right away. Big mistake. Should have just gotten some cheap models to start practicing on and get the experience. {sigh} Time is not something you can ever get back. Great cat by the way, very pleased with himself. Thanks for the video!

[@skunked42]

As far as the nippers go. I use them on a daily basis for work. Just buy a box of 10/12 off of amazon, the cheap ones are pretty much all the same. The high end ones are GREAT, for electronics work. The expensive ones stay sharp till you cut something they arent meant to cut then they chip, the cheap ones last a fair amount of time till you break them. Look for flush cut wire cutters. Maybe 20 bucks for 10 pairs. Files, get a set of needle files or jewlers files, even cheap ones will last forever on plastic, maybe 20 bucks and they have maybe 10 different shapes in the kit, sanding sticks, get the emory boards, pack of 100 for a couple of bucks. ( thats an Adam Savage trick). ( Sorry, I'm a tool geek) GREAT channel and I really think it has made me a better painter.

[@jevanoff83]

If you are new to painting and in the US, go to Hobby Lobby buy the orange handle Master Touch brushes $4-$6 usually and every other week they are 40% off . Only time I use my W&N series 7 brushes is edge highlighting and other fine detail work. Base coating, wet blending or using contrast style paints I'm using those cheap Master Touch brushes over my $20+ W&N. Don't have to buy the crap GW brushes or spend that kind of money on W&N starting out.

[@michaelreeves8532]

Handy tip for when your Tamiya cement gets low- grab yourself the big bottle of Tamiya Airbrush Cleaner- it is essentially the same formula...which has made me stop using it to clean my airbrush but works great to extend my glue life...

[@arthurjacobs9330]

Being an oil painter, big fan of everything Windsor Newton.

[@SteveSearle]

Since using GW paints many many years ago I have picked up the hobby again to go with the 3d printer I bought. Vallejo are my go to paints now, for no reason than they got better reviews than Army Painter on reviews I read. "Lyla made me do it" I did buy the Paint Puck and I actually think that it is a good purchase. To be able to stand the brushes point down from it is such a good idea. Model holding is still a grey area as the one you use Lyla is more expensive here in the UK than the US.

[@Darksplinter82]

I like using Rustoleum 2x primers. Cheap and good results with a pretty large can.

[@papatinpan]

One trick I use on sanding sticks is if you go to starbucks, grab a couple of stir stick & cut the paper to the width of the stick run some glue & VOILA! sand stick. The other advantage of this use put a different grit on the other side. As far as files go, Harbor Freight, has a set for $6 & I've had them for 6 years. Only time you should be spending high dollar on files is if you are filing metal, & believe me, high dollar files at Hobby stores are not going to cut it for that application. I do metal casting so my files for that application are in the $50-80 range but they are designed for that. Hobby stores & this not a criticism, are set up for One Stop shopping, but if you are on a budget there are cheaper alternatives if you take time to shop around & compare, & think outside the box.

[@Sicram]

I've just started back painting after a VERY long break, 50 now, mid-life crisis probably, and I really like Liquid Green Stuff. I've used it in the past and have used it again on the model I've just started. It takes a couple or three goes but it fills nicely and I can't see any joins. I haven't noticed any cracks on my older models BUT I don't play any games and they are for display only so maybe the lack of handling has helped it last. Great vids by the way. Things have changed a LOT since my day 😁

[@gi1dor]

That's the problem with it, that you need 2-3 goes to make it work. Better model putties like Tamiya Putty or Vallejo Plastic Putty or even Milliput (though it requires mixing) doing this in a single go, they do not shrink and you can sand them for perfect finish

[@Sicram]

@@gi1dor I take forever to paint things anyway so don't mind if it takes a while. I used to use Blu Tac and paint over the top with liquid Super Glue for larger gaps and that used to work really well.

[@gi1dor]

@@Sicram Yep, totally understand you, I do not say it doesn't work at all. I own a jar of it, but it's just not as good as other alternatives which I tried

[@thra-x1855]

ive had some success re-shaping synthetic brushes by rolling them on hot surfaces (nonstick pans, hair irons etc.) can't fix brushes splayed out by paint in the ferrule tho.

[@Redfield224]

Liquid Greenstuff was the biggest scam I've come across since starting this hobby. I used it exactly once and it was so frustrating to work with that I was hesitant to use it again. It also doesn't help that once open, it's shelf life is abysmally short. I went back to give it another chance a few months later and the pot had already dried out by that point. Apparently this is a common problem with it no matter how well you try to preserve it.

[@tobiwanknowsobi8119]

I'd agree for the most parts. As for tools like sidecutters, files and so on - many cheap options perform just as well. Industrial superglue can be modified in many ways, so there is no need for anything fancy either. When it comes to colours, the AV Vallejo range is absolutely supreme. They are better in every aspect, easier to handle and come at a much more reasonable price, have 50% more content and dropper bottles for high precision dosage.

[@Duette-1]

THANK YOU! I've been an ink painter for about 3 years and I'm always disappointed people don't endorse them more. They're just as good as contrasts/speed paints and actually a lot more versatile in my experience. Can we have a video on them Lyla?

[@dwimmerling]

My experience is a little bit different because I build gundams, but I kind of like the seamline remover. I'm using it on big flat stuff though, and I gouge less with that than a hobby knife. Sprue goo is life. If you spend fifty bucks on nipper they better be God Hands, and that is probably still not a good idea, and it's for sure overkill for minis.

[@gi1dor]

Totally, God Hand, or Dspiae as cheaper alternative, maybe Tamiy, but they a bit lower level The people comparing prices all the time of some shitty nippers from hardware store never tried to use a really good ones, which you will use for years and save you time on cleaning I don't say everyone should invest 30-80$ for a pair of nippers, but people who bitch more never really tried a really good ones

[@guilhemgp]

First... I really love your videos, thank you so much! And I decided to go for the paint holder seen in your previous video as I have very shaking hands sometimes. And it's really incredible!! I really wanted to thank you about that because it was you who finished to help me succumb to my curiosity :D But... I'll still be a fan of gw contrast as I have so much fun with them. I also agree about brush. I'm in love with an army painter size 2 which is really versatile. It stay so "pointy" (? Sorry. Not my native language ^^) and allows me to do so fine details :) Have a really nice day from a beginner in France 🇫🇷 ;)

[@abrohm2983]

You mentioned what primer you used before having an airbrush, but which airbrush primer do you use? I'm having trouble finding a good white airbrushable primer. Usually end up getting it with black for a light grey with much better coverage, then going over it with white ink. But if there's a good white primer saving a step would be great

[@LylaMev]

Badger stynelrez!

[@TheRyanMeredith]

I made sprue goo using a $1 bottle of nail polish remover. Also, I found the Citadel 'Air' paints have a better smooth consistency out of the pot so you don't have to water it down. I get one whenever I go to my FLGS warhammer night.

[@lordofhyphens]

Yeah, the Air line is basically pre-thinned for applying with airbrushes. Still generally wants thinning for actually firing through an airbrush. IMHO if you can get your hands on Vallejo Metal Color, do so because those are amazing true metallic paint

[@eyegore71]

I don't know if I am actually disagreeing, but Contrast Paints are what showed me that I could actually paint a mini that looks good. I am still a newbie (about a year), but I still use Contrast (or Speedpaints) as my base for most minis. I have tried inks, and have had problems with staining, but this could be user error. I think Contrasts are a good product, since they allow so many to paint...who lack artistic talent...like myself.

[@LylaMev]

Glad you found something that works!

[@neologian1783]

In a few categories it's not that GW is "bad" but merely overpriced.

[@mindyfranke5279]

Very good video! Well thought out and good comparisons. Highly recommend this video.

[@xthetenth]

I got a set of three tamiya craft files for about thirteen bucks and the tamiya files are quite nice with little rubberized grips and a nice holder that prevents you losing them to time. For water holding I just use a container of sauce that I got at the store. It has a screw top so I can paint at my regular desk and not worry about spills but have water ready to go. For model holding I use the redgrass games holder with the magnetic top cut off a cobalt keep handle stuck to it. I like the idea of the support strut, but I use bone to bone contact with my painting hand and holding hand for a similar purpose with yet more control and stability. For clippers, I have a pair of Dspiae ones that I got from a gunpla site that are great except for an infuriating little roll pin that prevents the things opening too wide that everyone seems to lose. Absolutely buttery smooth clipping for a reasonableish price though and very well made.

[@TheRunningLeopard]

I use liquid green stuff to craft small bits to add to my miniatures, primarily tail fins/horns/small bags and it works perfectly fine for that. Didn't realize folks tried to use it to fill in gaps and such. If it wasn't so expensive, I would use it a lot more.

[@autochton]

_Liquid_ green stuff, though? How do you work it into a shape, since it's well, liquid? Regular green stuff, or kneadatite, is an industry go to -- so much so that there's a Spanish hobby company named for it, Green Stuff World -- but it A) is very much not a liquid, and B) is available from tons of other sellers, much cheaper than GW sells it.

[@TheRunningLeopard]

@@autochton Tired so not sure how much of this will make sense, but trying my best. “Liquid” is a misnomer. It’s instead premixed, and if you want to do something outside of the first few minutes you’ll need to gradually add in more water. I personally just sculpt out the really basic shapes and as it dries, slowly add in more details/carve away what is unnecessary. At the time I first got liquid green stuff, it was the cheapest thing available to me as my local game store was out of the Army Painter “green stuff” is carried and it’s just way cheaper to buy stuff in person then to order things online where I am. Not defending Games Workshop, first time I heard of their company was about the controversy of them striking down fanart. Just not everyone’s situation is the same.

[@autochton]

@@TheRunningLeopard Huh, you learn something new every day! Did not actually know that it could be used like that, it sounds kind of like a hand painting version of what a resin 3d printer does. Which, that's really cool, actually! I suspect you could use other similar products like Vallejo's putty or the like too. I am somewhat fascinated.

[@TheRunningLeopard]

@@autochton No worries, the name is certainly a bit confusing, guess “premixed green stuff” was already taken. And I definitely put down the Vallejo Puddy to eventually try out when I have the chance. Thank you for letting me know about it. ^^

[@steveisaak4320]

I use the monument hobby synthetic brushes for inks, metals, and contrast paints. This has saved my good brushes. Paint wise I am switching to scale75 and monument hobbies

[@neologian1783]

I just ordered my ProAcryl "base" set.....the #2 "transparent" expansion set....and the "metalics" expansion set. MORE MORE MORE on their paint line please!! Any tips/advice you can offer on how to use this line in various ways (e.g. base coating, glazing, washing, etc) would be GREATLY appreciated!!

[@TheFryPo]

I absolutely recommend Army Painter wet pallette for painters on the go. It has a brush holder in the case!

[@BrianSmith-ek6he]

I actually don't mind the GW brushes. I dint have near enough discipline to keep a W&N in good condition for long. Some of them are for sure terrible, but my go to brushes (synthetic baseing brush, the natural layer, dry, and shade brushes) all do well enough for me. I do have a few brushes from my local arts shop for the harder to reach details.

[@lexzbuddy]

I cut a soda bottle in half and use that as a brush water container. I buy Fanta as the bottles here in the UK have a narrow waste and the shape is great for cleaning brushes.

[@jamisonpinkert879]

I have those side cutters and I love them!

[@adwag3573]

The cat purring at the end is by far the best part of this video.

[@LylaMev]

I think do too!!

[@howardcoates6985]

love the video.. universally good product from you Lyla. As far as Citadel paints go you missed one: the Air line are rdy to paint (with a brush) straight from the pot.. still too pricey though. Keep up the good work Lyla! If you werent already married (and a cat person) I would propose!

[@joedracos9409]

Most of what you said I already do, however, for paints I swear by Vellejo brand (specifically model colour). It has a large color array and they rarely need to be thinned (with a proper wet pallet), they also have an ink line in the Game color selection. This doesn't make your selection wrong.... just different

[@benjamintilley6344]

Thank you for showing the right consistency for sprue glue. On my previous attempt I must have overdone the sprues + it evaporated slightly over time, so I now have a solid lump of plastic in a glass bottle 😂

[@LylaMev]

It took me several attempts as well

[@matthewring8301]

While you are at the hardware store getting sandpaper and a round file, see if they have free paint stir sticks that you can use for batch priming.

[@Rohnon]

Liquid Green Stuff is great for texturing! Especially if the Minis have scenic bases, the Stones can look unrealistiscally smooth. stipple a bit of Liquid Green Stuff on an they look like stone! Tho in the future I wanna try Tamiya putty

[@LegionaireSiggi]

I got a Xuron clippers that I have been really happy with and I was always told were the premium (quality) clippers but that were

[@davidfranklin4789]

I agree with most of what you said except I prefer Army painter to citadel.

[@Akiosama1009]

Oddly enough, I really like their mould line remover (version 1, not the current one). I find it to be a bit easier to control than a hobby knife, and it doesn’t cut into the plastic at all. Works really well in places where I can’t get a sanding sponge into. Other than that, I’m in total agreement about Citadel tools. 😁

[@bruceyoung9692]

While I personally am the same way in regards to the mold line remover, even just using the back of a good blade. But I own the mold line remover from Monument Hobbies which 1) allows me to get to places that the GW version couldn't hope to do, 2) works for clean up on 3D prints, 3) is safer for my 10 year old daughter to use, and 4) is nearly 1/3rd the cost of the GW one. Plus it supports a small US based company as a bonus. On a side note, Daler Rowney Inks, Liquitex Inks, Vallejo Xpress Paints, and Army Painter Paints are all outstanding replacements for GW contrast.

[@lexzbuddy]

Wet pallet. Get a Ferrero Rocher 24 box of chocolate, baking parchment and sponge cloth. Eat chocolate, yum. wet then cut sponges to fit box with 3mm or 4mm gap around edges when sponges are wet. Cut parchment squares the size of box to fit. You now have an excellent wet pallet. Put the lid on and your wet pallet remains wet for use the next day. The Ferreting Rochet lid fits so well almost no moisture is lost. Best wet pallet money can buy... and the chocolates are delicious :)

[@KelRiever]

I love how you just hurl a few GW paint jars onto the table right at the beginning of the video as part of the tools :D

[@LylaMev]

I triple checked that the lids were secure

[@dfly27485]

I only paint figurinos when I have a heavy buzz on. I don’t use any special gear, I just have to right in the pocket while I’m working and everything comes out MINT.

[@samuelpettinato3489]

i really like GW paints, especially for following a tutorial. instead of guessing, I can open the pot they recommend. just my thoughts. Keep up the good work

[@Strugly_P]

I think gw paint is a solid middle teir paint. Sure it's satin and thicc but its not the worst and its available in most LFG's across north america were other brands not so much. Having said all that.... my workhorse paint for the last 3-4 years is Pro Acrylic. That glaze medium is wonderful to get those creamy blends going.

[@waveemann8857]

Citadel paints aren't really even "thick" though, especially since they come in various viscosities because they're for different "steps". And idk, if Corax White isn't enough to make everyone run to another brand idk what would lol. Thankfully my LGS started carrying AP too so that's a better option in a pinch if I need something very fast.

[@Strugly_P]

@@waveemann8857 I havent had much sucess with AP's normal line of paints, love the speed paints. And whites are super hard to get right, an amazing off white is pro acrylics white blue off of the new signature line. If i need white white i just use white ink from a bright grey.

[@bigbrowntau]

Vallejo spray primers are great. Smoother, more tolerant of high temperatures, and much cheaper than GW's rattle cans. Here in Australia, we pay $30 for a can of GW's primers, and they're about to go up more.

[@mmmmadness4238]

I'm trying that tamiya cement asap. The brush looks super handy

[@durzod2052]

In general, buying anything BUT a hobby brand tool is the way to go. Even an art supply store has better options than a hobby shop. For instance, I regularly use Wal-Mart cheapo clippers for most models. Sure, I have to replace them after a few months, but at $2-$3 a pop it's definitely worth it. If I need to cut off a delicate part, I use my hobby knife (NOT a GW product!). Totally agree about Pro-Acryl paints. Mixing their transparent paints with a bit of matte mediium produces a quite servicable alternative to Contrast. You may have to do a but of color mixing, but that's half the fun.

[@artycharr]

hairgel/hot iron etc can help straighten curved synthetic brushes!

[@jamesharrison142]

Kitty!!! So much purr. Praying he gets better.

[@johnbaumgartenjr.8825]

I can attest to the Hobby Holder. It's helped me big time. However, since I have old Citadel mini holders already, I modeled my own Hobby Holder to fit as an attachment and printed on my 3D printer. But, I highly recommend this tool for keeping hands steady while painting those tiny areas.

[@MattDFan96]

One question I have for Pro Acryl paints. Do you use a wet palette for base coating with them? I find that they get a little too flowy and don't cover/dry as smoothly for basecoats after sitting on the WP for a minute or so. To my understanding using a wet palette with them is best for other techniques?

[@syd4890]

Ok primers and varnish. For those living in the uk - just go to halfords. Their black matt and plastic grey primers are amazing. With a bit of prep you can prime even in winter no problem. The varnishes are also very good and resistant. I mean if it works on cars it should be ok for our expensive mankid toys xp

[@cykotron2662]

I agree with 99% of what you said. I do like using contrast type paints because I typically paint to a game ready standard instead of display ready and that type of paint just speeds my process along. But I do prefer Army Painter Speedpaints over Citadel Contrast paints simply because of the price factor.