Patton 20” HV Fan | Restoration: Disassemble, Clean, Oil & Replace Feet

[@pinebluff1971]

I absolutely love PATTON fans. We used back in 70’s and 80’s a lot. The sound makes me smile. Amazing tidbit of information on the PATTON design the alignment of the front and back grills! ✌🏻

[@TheSuperFanMan]

That's cool! Patton was pretty much the go-to brand for high velocity fans in those decades!

[@neelamsoundarajan9458]

You, sir, are a perfectionist! I have to replace the Tower switch on my late nineties fan but having watched your video, I am going to do a bit more. No, I am not going to take the motor apart, clean it and put it back together! That would be going much too far. But I will clean it from the outside, oil it, change the switch and hope it works well. Thank you, sir!

[@TheSuperFanMan]

You’re very welcome! Cleaning and oiling will definitely help prolong the life of the fan!

[@mrfanman9209]

Oh my goodness. Your so good at this. Wish I had more old fans.

[@TheSuperFanMan]

Thanks! Keep an eye out for them, I'm sure you'll be able to find more older fans.

[@TheFanUniverse]

Your high standards never fail to amuse me, that right there is an absolutely stunning job! You should really get a screwdriver bit for your drill, it really helps to cut down on work time & preserve your energy. I usually use a screwdriver with thick cloth wrapped around it to remove these types of fan grilles if the grille has some sort of finish I’d like to preserve. I really thought you saw a ghost through your window when you jumped lol, I’m so used to milipedes, spiders & other fun little critters accompanying me in my workshop simply because of the garden just outside that I just calmly have my shopvac handle the situation. The only time I got scared as much as you did was when a big brown grasshopper showed up just outside my shop. That time I barricaded myself inside, popped open my shop window a bit, and point my shopvac hose at that guy. After he got sucked in, I pulled the hose, taped it all up, and threw my shopvac outside with the dustbag door open, he didn’t get out until the next morning when I brought the shopvac in, it was a blast. Oh, if I may know, how hot do the motors in your Pattons get? Mine warms up quite a lot during operation, and I can’t really tell if it’s the difference in frequency, or my motor is damaged from the previous owner running it on 220V.

[@TheSuperFanMan]

Thanks man! I actually have an adapter for attaching screwdriver bits to the drill, but I find that it's more work to set up the drill than just using the manual screwdriver lol. Perhaps I'll save up for one of those small electric screwdrivers. That's a good idea with wrapped screwdrivers. Lol yeah that spider came out of nowhere! I took a step forward and nearly squished it as it darted past my foot. Vacuums for the win! I do that too, especially for those occasional wall and ceiling dwellers. The little guy in this video is still in the vacuum downstairs as I'm typing this lol. Sure thing! I'll run the fan until it warms up and get the temperature readings. I forgot to reattach the specs sticker back onto the motor in this video, so I did that yesterday night. The glue is still curing so I plan on waiting for a bit before allowing the motor to run and get hot. I'll message ya the temperature readings on instagram (and maybe also leave a comment here in case other viewers are wondering the same thing). Edit: the motor temperature was about 38 degrees Celsius after running on high speed for half an hour.

[@colin_5839]

DAYUM! Looks great!! Very good job as always! The only thing I recommend you add to your restorations is revarnishing the stators on these motors. It really helps them last soooo much longer!

[@TheSuperFanMan]

Thanks Colin! Great point about varnishing. I actually did varnish the stator, mentioned at 33:41 in the video. I agree that it helps preserve the windings and extends their lifespan. But I don't blame you for missing that part, this was a rather long video!

[@colin_5839]

@@TheSuperFanMan Ohh ok good, sorry I missed it I had to skim this one a bit lol. Don't have as much free time as I used to unfortunately!!

[@TheSuperFanMan]

No worries at all! I’m in the same boat, being in university/college really does take up a lot of time, even during summer with jobs and all lol.

[@pinebluff1971]

Getting ready to watch. A big “ fan”if PaTTON fans

[@TheSuperFanMan]

Awesome! I'm also a "big fan" of this "cool" Patton fan, it sure is "fan"tastic!

[@pinebluff1971]

What polish did you use

[@pinebluff1971]

@@TheSuperFanMan ✌🏻

[@TheSuperFanMan]

For the blades, I used Mother’s Mag & Aluminum Polish. For the speed indicator sticker on the rear grille, I used Mother’s Micro Polishing Glaze, which is just an ultra gentle polish intended for automotive paint. I have an Amazon recommendations list in the video description that has the products I used in the video :)

[@pinebluff1971]

Your video was very informative interesting I buy fans at estate sales. I plug them in. If they work I bring home and clean … never have completely disassembled one, oil etc etc but I might try. 😵‍💫. I’m a little intimidated….Have you restored the Mathis wooden box fans

[@theeverythingchannel5457]

I love vintage Patton fans. I used to have a 1995 Patton U2-20P and it was originally my aunt's fan which she bought in summer of 1995 when she lived in her studio apartment. She did have it for a few years when she moved into her current home in 2003, but she gave it to us somewhere in the mid-2000s (2007/08) since we couldn't really afford a new fan at the time. It was a really nice fan. It was the one with the 50th year anniversary badge. Sadly, the motor on it somehow died about 2 years ago and now we have a Lasko fan, which is nowhere near as good quality as the Pattons, but it's ok.

[@TheSuperFanMan]

Cool! I’m sorry to hear that it quit. I’m thinking the motor’s thermal fuse blew, either from dust accumulation or the bearings seizing up. Keep an eye on local Craigslist or Marketplace listings to see if old Pattons show up. The Lasko certainly is a good fan; I would say it’s one of the better modern high velocity fans you can buy, but it sure doesn’t perform quite as well as older Pattons did.

[@davidzeringuethefanman6292]

I really enjoyed the video bro also like this fan

[@TheSuperFanMan]

Thanks! I do too. The chrome is a real eye catcher.

[@txc500]

Have oyu ever seen on a patton fan where the blades spin on the center bushing? So the shaft pins the bushing but not the blades?

[@TheSuperFanMan]

You may have a Patton from the late 90s or early 2000s that utilized a fully stamped aluminum blade set (such as this one: kzbin.info/www/bejne/mKO1hKuGoq5kgdUsi=qYt0jQQeVq9774EN). Most high velocity fans use a steel hub but Patton took a cheap route and went with full aluminum blades for a while. This fatal design error can cause the hub to detach from the motor shaft and spin separately. Another possibility is that your blades’ grub screw simply came use. There’s a black hex grub screw on the side of the blade hub that needs to be tightened to secure it to the shaft.

[@txc500]

It's the one piece stamped blade.

[@rickjames4185]

Where can I get replacement washers, spacers etc...

[@TheSuperFanMan]

The spacer washers for the motor shaft are "fiber washers". They're most commonly sold in red but they're pretty much the same thing as the dark grey ones used in most of fans. I use an assortment pack I bought on Amazon, but I think many other hardware stores carry them. Hope it helps!

[@rickjames4185]

@@TheSuperFanMan Are all four of them the same thing? Fiber washers?

[@TheSuperFanMan]

I’m not quite sure what you’re referring to with “all four”, but for this motor, the thin dark grey washers are all fiber washers. They are the thinner kinds, which I’ve noticed are difficult to obtain. The red fiber washers are thicker, so one of these can substitute 2-3 of the dark grey washers. Next, the fluffy washers behind the fiber washers are felt washers, intended to absorb axial vibrations and hold some oil. Behind the felt washer is a red fiber washer, and the last washer (the one closest to the rotor core) appears to be a proprietary flanged nylon washer. If this needs to be replaced, you can stack several plain nylon washers to achieve the same thickness. Hope it helps!

[@LemontTheFanMan]

Wow what an excellent service video on this Patton Fan with its blue McMillan motor it looks and sounds like new I enjoyed the video I want to try to the last modern 18” model on Amazon they had the 20” but it’s gone now plus I don’t but much on eBay I like Amazon better however Jordan Home environment have since put a end to it altogether once the name was dropped

[@TheSuperFanMan]

Thanks Lemont! I agree that Amazon is generally better in terms of customer service and ease of use. But the downside is that they don't sell older products. Yeah it's quite unfortunate that the Patton name is now gone for good. Even the Jarden-made Patton fans weren't too bad.

[@LemontTheFanMan]

@@TheSuperFanMan Exactly my point but they will be missed I’m still looking to try to get the 18” one you can’t find the 20 on Amazon no more but I think you can find the 20” jordan one on eBay I’ll look there 😊

[@TheSuperFanMan]

Yes Patton will definitely be missed. They were such a big name in the high velocity fan market. I didn’t know their fans are still available for sale. Perhaps those are leftover stock? I’m guessing they won’t be available for long as they sell out lol.

[@wfanfr]

Beautiful!

[@TheSuperFanMan]

Thanks! :)

[@luchezardinev1662]

Your welcome

[@kylexj1]

would you happen to know where I might be able to source a blade for an 18" patton fan? thank you

[@TheSuperFanMan]

I'm honestly not too sure, but some HVAC suppliers may have suitable replacements. Important parameters to keep in mind are the 18" blade diameter and the correct motor shaft diameter. The fan in this video has a 1/2" diameter shaft. Ideally, the pitch of the blades should be similar too, to prevent overloading the motor.

[@TheBehemothHyper]

Alright great job bro! Funny how there was a spider in the video lol.

[@TheSuperFanMan]

Thanks Matt! Haha yeah the spider probably wanted to be featured in the video. It got what it wanted, but at a cost; now it's stuck in the vacuum lol.

[@Noone-rt6pw]

If it only worked on one of three speeds before coaching out completely, would that seem like the switch or capacitor? Where can replacement parts be found?

[@TheSuperFanMan]

I’m thinking it would either be the switch or the motor windings. The capacitor is responsible for starting and running the motor, irrespective of the speed setting, so it’s likely not the issue if the motor worked on at least one speed. A few questions: Is there any sparking or burning smell from the motor? Which of the three speeds was last working? If the switch is the problem, you can easily obtain a replacement one on eBay for a few bucks. Look for a 4 position rotary switch. It should have a OFF, L-1, L-2, L-3 configuration.

[@Noone-rt6pw]

@@TheSuperFanMan I appreciate the feedback. No arcing or burning smell, I can't recall which, seems like it ran on low speed without tripping, until it totally conked out. It could have been high speed. It was only one speed it would continuously run on. The other two speeds, it'd run a little while, then trip out, eventually resetting it seemed like. Made me think a thermistor or such. I do appreciate the feedback.

[@TheSuperFanMan]

Interesting! There’s a chance it is the self-resetting thermal fuse in the motor. The reason for the fuse tripping could be either dust accumulation in the motor, or the lack of adequate lubrication. Heavy dust accumulation can cause the motor temperature to spike, especially at lower speeds, since the fan doesn’t move nearly as much air over the motor to keep it cool. Blasting the motor vents with an air compressor will help clear out the dust quickly. Or you can also open up the motor to clean out the dust manually. Similarly, if the bearings are running without sufficient lubrication, or with deteriorated, gummy oil, the motor will struggle to operate properly and can blow the fuse. The best way would be to open up the motor like I did in the video and clean the bearing surfaces, and apply new oil. Hope it helps!

[@frhunting]

Thank you for your impeccable video restoring a great fan. I have a Patton U2 1425 with a cracked bearing in a fan in otherwise fine condition. Do you have any ideas about where I might find a replacement bearing?

[@TheSuperFanMan]

You’re welcome! That’s really tricky. I’m assuming the bronze bushing itself is cracked? If so, I think you could go one of two ways. - you could keep an eye on eBay or local buy/sell sites for a Patton fan with an identical motor, and swap parts as needed. - you could reach out to a machinist who can fabricate a new bushing. You’ll need to drill out the four rivets holding the bearing retainer to the motor shell. Bring the bushing to the machinist as a reference, and the new bushing can be fitted into the motor before riveting (or small machine screws w/ nuts) the retainer back in place. Hope it helps! If it’s not the bushing itself that’s cracked, let me know and I can try to provide additional advice. Also any questions are welcome!

[@DJBudGreen]

I love the meticulous repairs you do on the fans. Inquiry: My early 90's Model U2-1887 fell out of my window last night and the fan bit into the cage and completely bent one of the blades. No matter how hard I try, I cannot rebalance the blade enough to stop it from walking around. Do you have a resource for replacement blades? Thank you if you choose to reply. Be well.

[@TheSuperFanMan]

Thank you! Yikes, sounds like the blade got really bent. For replacements, I think various HVAC supplier or eBay has some that will fit the U2-1887. Measure the motor shaft diameter (I think it’s 1/2” but not certain), and blades with that bore diameter and 18” span should work. Here’s just one listing I found on eBay: www.ebay.com/itm/374813253079 Another thing to keep in mind is the load on the motor. The replacement blades should not cause the motor to run slower from excessive blade pitch or weight. If you have a Kill-A-Watt meter, a clamp meter, or another way of measuring current, it would be a good idea to check how the new blades affect the motor’s current draw compared to the original blades. If the new blades draw more current, you can gently bend each blade at the hub to reduce the pitch slightly. Another fan collector actually experimented with the Dayton blades and made a video on it. It seems like a decent replacement option: kzbin.info/www/bejne/anOlp62Bi5uteqM Hope it helps!

[@Connectitthefancollector]

35:45 ah so that is where i oil on a fan. Was oiling a 1950s welbeck 12” and wasn’t exactly sure where the oil goes.

[@TheSuperFanMan]

Yep the soft felt material that surrounds the bearing is the wick. It can soak up the oil and dispense it to the bearing as the motor runs. The bearing and wick setup can look a bit different depending on the fan, but the end goal is to saturate the wick to ensure it can keep the bearing well oiled for a long time.

[@Slop2007]

This fan in my country is relatively small, here 24 inches are common, and there are some that are even bigger, reaching 36 inches, and they are used in common commercial establishments

[@jitterspec]

I have patton fan similar to this one that has electronic switch that broke. Probably 2003 vintage. Only 2 wires feed motor. Does anyone know if this can be rewired with manual switch? The motor and fan is awesome.

[@TheSuperFanMan]

Yes you should be able to wire it up directly to a manual switch. I would need a bit more details to give advice on how it can be done. You mentioned that there are two wires coming from the motor. In the housing where the electronics are, do you see a capacitor? They’re typically a black plastic box with a microfarad rating printed on it. Also, what’s the current rating or wattage rating of the fan (it should say on the specs sticker somewhere)?

[@jitterspec]

@TheSuperFanMan thanks for the reply. The fan is u2-20rf and motor is 2.4A. I don't see a capacitor in the electronics but I see a black box mounted next to motor. It may be thermal switch? It has 2 wires going to it. I made a video kzbin.info/www/bejne/hHy4c2R4fMijj9U. Thanks!

[@TheSuperFanMan]

No problem! I watched your video. The black box next to the motor is the capacitor. The two wires leaving the capacitor and into the motor should be left alone as they’re needed for the motor to run. It looks like the motor itself is single speed, hence the two wires, and the speeds are controlled by the circuit board. So without the circuit board, the fan can be wired to a manual switch, but you will only have high speed. You can simply connect the two wires from the motor to the two wires on the power cord, and that will make the fan run. With a two-wire AC induction motor, it doesn’t matter which wire connects to neutral and live side of the plug, but since your fan has a grounded cord (making it technically polarized), I would suggest connecting the white wire from the motor to the neutral wire on the power cord, which is the prong that would fit into the wider socket in the outlet. The black motor wire would then connect to the live wire (the narrow socket in the outlet) on the power cord. To add a manual switch, you can wire it in series between the black motor wire and the live wire on the power cord. Since the fan would be single speed, a simple toggle switch for example, will work. Hope it helps!

[@jitterspec]

@@TheSuperFanMan this is exactly the help I needed. I will follow your instructions and rig a toggle switch in line. Thanks!

[@TheSuperFanMan]

No problem! Glad I was able to help!

[@TheEnormousjohnson]

Do you have a link for the fiber washers and the three base pads? thank you!!

[@TheSuperFanMan]

No problem! I believe they are in my Amazon recommendations list in the video description, under restoration supplies!

[@TheEnormousjohnson]

@@TheSuperFanMan no I tried that before. Just takes me to your Amazon page. I went to Lowes, Menards, Home Depot and all they had was 7/16 - 3/4. No 1/2.

[@Santos-ek8md]

Where can common parts be found for this Patton fan?

[@TheSuperFanMan]

Which part are you looking for? Hardware such as screws can be obtained from any hardware stores, switches and wires are available on Amazon, eBay, hardware stores etc.

[@dr_joeybagz5968]

Can you tell me the part number of the capacitor I would need? Also, the bearings in my fan look like old dryed clay. I saw you oil yours that looked the same way. What material in there?

[@hoangviet8005]

Wow, powerful 👍

[@TheSuperFanMan]

Yes it sure is! One of the most powerful fans I have.

[@mikebibbyhighlight]

For my Patton Fan model TG-1887, I'm looking for a replacement for my motor run capcitor Vim QPC-MEB8. Would you happen to know where I could find this part or something equivalent?

[@TheSuperFanMan]

Sure do! You’ll need to see what the rating of your original capacitor is. Most capacitors will have a maximum voltage rating and a microfarad (μF) rating printed on it. The replacement capacitor should have the exact same microfarad rating, but the maximum voltage rating can either be equal or higher (higher rating just means it has the ability to withstand higher voltage input. But the max. voltage rating should always be higher than your house main voltage: in US and Canada, 120V). When you wire up the new one, the wiring polarity doesn’t matter as this is an AC capacitor. Usually eBay and Amazon have good selections of capacitors (mostly eBay). Here’s one I found that has a drop down menu of many microfarad value options, and the 450V max voltage rating will be plenty good: www.ebay.com/itm/234292208834?hash=item368ce764c2:g:6VcAAOSwnXhhjjRz&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAA4Aydt2xC3j4Z92u52%2FHmCpxy%2FRakh%2F4JPk7jTpSbPKvvSo%2FR8ZAC5SsGVLru0nqT27HnNyGhzWeUVS1O7bHdfkzX2rozt1MVC2Elp4jXhYVdMCQZuFMWoOVk2XBzti5ePsAtVZlxRiEekKEGcN1ehmtrEfuk3A46d8s512P0sbcnKIKQwcqTLhi5pFiPoUA8jW0L26TQ0isfzj42k1rUPVM4%2B9OHNwPU5juM3gzHryxnpem0rh5eV%2B55o4l6LFakkkpKwHXjagRJwB2MUgp5%2B3T70udhJxjsKy6mp8ge%2FsfU%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR4zunoTjYA

[@mikebibbyhighlight]

@@TheSuperFanMan Thanks for the detailed response! It's super helpful

[@TheSuperFanMan]

No problem!

[@stan6271]

Any idea about where to obtain a motor for 2011 model 20" that has worn out?

[@TheSuperFanMan]

It won't really be possible unfortuntately. The motors in the post-2000-ish Patton fans are proprietary so replacements are pretty much non-existent. The older Patton fans had a standard motor size, as the motors were supplied by other manufacturers such as McMillan and Samsung. You could technically source a motor (maybe an exhaust fan motor) for your fan, but it'll likely require extensive modifications to the fan's mounting points.

[@stan6271]

@@TheSuperFanMan thank you for the response

[@jiujitsu_demon6527]

Nice fan! Sure does look new. Have you heard of the Holmes buy out versions by any chance?

[@TheSuperFanMan]

Thanks! Yes I am aware of the Holmes buy out versions. Though I don't have one, I like them too. I wish they hadn't moved away from McMillan motors but at least the motor they went with were also pretty decent despite the absence of oil ports.

[@jiujitsu_demon6527]

@@TheSuperFanMan yes they were just as good as Mcmillian if you ask me. They did too have an option of having a Mcmillian motor but it was more common to have a raider motor. If ever do get one. Is there any chance you could make a video of how to take off the switch box? Because I have one that has the switch inside almost and it makes the stem loose.

[@TheSuperFanMan]

Yeah I agree. The substitute motor they used was good in terms of quality and power. Just the lack of oil ports is the main reason why I prefer the McMillan motor. I actually acquired an uncommon transitional model of the U2-20 recently, with the Hampton Bay brand on it. It still has a McMillan motor, but with newer elements such as clips on the grille, winged tilt adjustment knobs and that switch cover box. I haven’t taken it apart yet but the switch cover box does seem to be attached in a peculiar manner. No visible screws that I could see. I’ll look into it when I have time. I believe Jordan U recently did a video where he serviced a 12” Hampton Bay HV fan that had the same switch cover box. You might want to take a look at his video to see how he managed it.

[@jiujitsu_demon6527]

@@TheSuperFanMan I will have to check it out.

[@michaelrobertson8795]

What size is that capacitor on the 20in Patton because I found one and put sealed bearings in it instead of bushings and it was missing the capacitor if you know the size of that capacitor it would be helpful thanks

[@TheSuperFanMan]

8 μF, 250 V AC, as shown at 4:40 in the video. The replacement capacitor should have the same capacitance (μF) value, but it can have a same or higher maximum voltage rating; it just can’t be lower. 450V capacitors seem to be easier to obtain than 250V capacitors. Search for “ceiling fan capacitors” on eBay. The ones that look like a small black box are suitable for portable fans (and ceiling fans). Also, make sure that your fan is actually missing a capacitor before wiring a new one in. I’m not sure what Patton fan model you have, but some older models from the 70s did not have motors that use capacitors. Hope it helps!

[@michaelrobertson8795]

@@TheSuperFanMan thanks brother I seen that in a video I zoomed in on it and I could see the 8 but I wasn't for sure, someone dumped this off in the parking lot and it was missing the capacitor and it looked like it needed help, I upgraded it to sealed bearings had to make my own plates and collars the hold the bearings, I'm actually going to use this 8-inch flat lap to do cavachons out of Rock

[@idkanymore2746]

Will you have a fan company that makes old fans in the future?

[@davidsnidertechandmore1940]

What does the stater do

[@TheSuperFanMan]

The stator is a part of an electric motor that has the copper windings. When electricity is applied, the windings induce a magnet field, which turns the rotor. The principles of the workings depending on the type of motor though.

[@davidsnidertechandmore1940]

@@TheSuperFanMan Thanks for the information I did not know what a stater does You just taught me something

[@The_Fan_King]

How the heck did a spider get into your workshop

[@WarthogDoctor]

Dude good video and tutorial, but you really missed so many crucial parts of the restoration. For those of us trying to learn from you, it would be super helpful to see how you clean things, even if for just a fraction of the activity. Please put as much as much effort into your camera/storage solutions as you do your fan restorations. Thank you.

[@TheSuperFanMan]

Appreciate the feedback! I do try to incorporate as much of the restoration process as I can into my videos. Cleaning is generally simple; not much more than rinsing the parts with water with some dish soap or degreaser, or with a brush or compressed air for electrical and certain metal components that must not get wet. But you’re right; the cleaning part is written in the title so I should have been more thorough with that step. I have included the clips of the cleaning process in some of my other restoration videos such as kzbin.info/www/bejne/eWarnpuXl8-srrcsi=XXmg8hwPRxIh6LqA which might be helpful.

[@superfanb5742]

Imagine putting that fan near a cat while it's sleeping. Then you turn it on and the cat is like wth is that noise and where is that wind coming from

[@TheSuperFanMan]

Lol it would probably do one of those classic cat jumps where it hops 10ft into the air.

[@BesthanddryerakaWDA]

@@TheSuperFanMan Scared of the fan eh, no wonder there’s a saying called scaredy cat lmao 😂

[@0BCDBR0009]

0:06 that tiny thing will stand no chance

[@vanessavieux7283]

I like it super Man fan have a nice day have a absolutely wonderful day good job super Man fan

[@TheSuperFanMan]

Glad you liked it.

[@eyestoenvy]

They sure don't make them like that anymore, e except of course for a TPI unit ....

[@TheSuperFanMan]

They sure don't! Hopefully TPI keeps their high velocity fans in production for a long time.

[@mrjumaatsamian]

Nice but wheres the vid i requested

[@TheSuperFanMan]

Thanks! Which video are you referring to? Video requests are always welcome but keep in mind that I can't film all requests immediately.

[@mrjumaatsamian]

Westinghouse stand fan with the super table fan blade and grills

[@TheSuperFanMan]

I don’t remember you requesting that, but sure, I can add it to my video list. I’m not sure when I’ll be able to film it though as it’s not high priority.

[@mrjumaatsamian]

@@TheSuperFanMan ty

[@TheSuperFanMan]

Anytime!

[@luchezardinev1662]

Superfanman, you can also say average speed, the patton on average speed is just about as loud as your super 1992 to 1999 12 inch oscillating fans on high speed

[@TexSirens]

Waylon whelen

[@TheSuperFanMan]

Not sure what you mean.

[@Dmoney64467]

Do not post spam

[@lennongroover4189]

Whch is mre powerful, ths version of the curbed swept blades?🤔🤨🧐🤷‍♂️My sster had a bf, but whn they were dating, he had a a d probably lke still dxes or so, has/hd a windmwre 18” or so I thnk wth the curved/forward or so, swept blades, xnd it was/seemed prtty powerfuk, xnd as a kd at/@ the xld hxuse in the pst as a kid, we hd 1/one at/@ my fnd house who was I thnk pssed at/@ the tbe or so, xnd I’ve nvr rlly seen it run I dnt thnk, bt it was too an 18” I thnk, nt the 20” version or so, nd I want jst sure. (Dd) whtever you wnt fr chrstms jst dnt it, xnd he acts tht I dnt need a xther fan even thght tht I dnt hve tht mch. Bt lke,/…I’m jst trying to decide if I shxukd send ths version or the other?🤔🤨🧐🤷‍♂️I’d already sent the xther, bt lke still or sø???🤔🤔🤔🤨🤨🤨🧐🧐🧐🤷‍♂️🤷‍♂️🤷‍♂️

[@spookedhorse]

Thanks. I pulled out the screw for the blades, but, I still can't get the blades to release, to clean everything. Is it possible I've cracked the tiny screw? WTF. I'm so baffled, LOL.

[@TheSuperFanMan]

I think you just ran into a very common problem with metal bladed fans! The blade hub is likely stuck to the motor shaft due to either rust, old oil or debris. The grub screw is probably fine. Try spraying some WD-40 into the grub screw hole, and also the area where the motor shaft meets the blade hub. After a few hours, try tugging on it again. Another way is to use a gear puller if you have one, which is the easiest and safest way. Made a video on the process: kzbin.info/www/bejne/qarKeHdnhsl3fsk Though I don’t really recommend it, another way is to place a hex socket that’s slightly larger than the motor shaft in front of the blade hub, and tap with a hammer to force the blades towards the motor. Sometimes the impact will break the bond and release the blades. You can then clean the gunk off the newly exposed area of the motor shaft, then pull the blades off by hand. If the blades don’t budge with a few hard hits with the hammer, I wouldn’t keep going, as it could damage the bearings. The gear puller method is much safer. Hope it helps!

[@spookedhorse]

@@TheSuperFanMan Thank you. The hammer tap actually worked. And yep, its was completely loaded with gunk and hair, etc. I cannot thank you enough. Sincere and endless thanks. It's an old Patton and I don't wanna lose it. I can't now, with your tips and advice.

[@TheSuperFanMan]

No problem! Glad the trick worked. Definitely take good care of your Patton. They don’t make them like they used to.

[@spookedhorse]

@@TheSuperFanMan Roger, wilco! Immense thanks, again.