This AMAZON “BILLET” Part ALMOST DESTROYED my 350 Small Block Chevy!!

[@bobnankervis9722]

With the std volume SBC oil pump the nylon coupler works perfectly fine. With the high volume pump use the Melling steel shaft with the included steel coupler. 50 years of building high performance Chevy engines and never a failure when using the right Mellings parts

[@goldsgarage8236]

great comments, thanks Bob.AG

[@JoshuaABartlett]

Be careful with those ARP shafts. I've had 2 now that the collars slid off with very little effort(they would have slid off during operation). They sent me a new one in both instances because they agreed. I now only buy the Melling ones. I still use ARP hardware, but not the oil shaft. True story!

[@Comet-hn3gm]

I keep the Melling on my shelf all the time. 3 or more, and they are less money.

[@Hillbillygarage1215]

I am a fan of Melling pumps, I have used many. I mated one recently to the corresponding Melling intermediate shaft but had great difficulty installing the distributor into the shaft. It was so tight, I had to use a dead blow hammer to get the distributor in. I absolutely HATED doing that but the engine was already in the truck and I didn't have a lot of choice. I tried with a spare distributor I had to see what was going on and it was the same way, so it wasn't the distributor gear it was the shaft. Thankfully the intermediate shaft did not un-couple from the pump but it was very disappointing none the less. From my experience I suggest that everyone check the fitment between the intermediate shaft and distributor gear out side the engine anytime using an aftermarket shaft. Thank you Alan for all the great information and wisdom. I learn so much from you and I find it interesting that many of our processes and procedures share many similarities. I don't have near the experience that you do but it seems we learned from the same school of thought.

[@jesse5000]

I only use Melling pumps and shafts. Never had a problem, but I will give the shaft more attention from now on. Great video as always Alan.

[@jamesmedina2062]

ARP has been hit and miss with me lately. Fairly rude to me on the phone but I like their stuff. They need to be open minded because they tend to think they have no competition and I had suggestions to offer them but they were NOT INTERESTED

[@goldsgarage8236]

Thanks for the nice comment Ronnie and for supporting my channel. From your point, it is always a good idea to mock up or test fit every part before final installation. AG

[@patrickm.8425]

"because the coupling is pressed on and can't come out" - Famous last words! lol

[@goldsgarage8236]

Good point Patrick. Probably another good reason to stick with the OEM plastic sleeve. AG

[@mikeskidmore6754]

Wore the lobes off the Distributor of my 1975 Chevy C-65 with a Tall Deck 427 Motor.. I wanted to replace the Points Distributor with a newer HEI Distributor. The 427 Tall Deck Truck engine had a Hex Drive instead of the flimsy T Drive with a Nylon Coupler. I had to drop the Oil pan and change to a T-drive to match the HEI Distributor. Small Block Chevy Big Block Chevy and Big Block Tall DEck engines can all use the same Distributor .. That is if you use the Truck Intake Manifold that has the surface area for the Distributor bored .400 deeper..

[@goldsgarage8236]

Good info Mike, I did not know that. Thanks for contributing to my channel. AG

[@SuperDave227D]

Another solid “Gold” video helping all of us!! Thank you!!

[@goldsgarage8236]

Thanks Dave, glad you are finding my videos helpful, that is why we do them.AG

[@greggc8088]

Glad it didn't cause any destruction. Thanks for sharing.

[@goldsgarage8236]

Me too, thanks thanks Greg. AG

[@Carl_Jr]

This is crazy. I literally just had a piece of the dipstick break off and lock up my oil pump. The tab that bolts the dipstick tube to the block, broke. That allowed the tube to twist, and the very tip of the dipstick got hit by the crankshaft. Little did I know the pickup tube for the oil pump had fallen off. A little piece of the dipstick got caught in the oil pump and locked it up. That little plastic sleeve broke as well as the input shaft going into the oil pump itself. I figured, since I have it apart I will go ahead and replace the intermediate shaft with one with a steel sleeve. To my surprise the one I ordered was a Melling intermediate shaft which they recommended for their oil pump. Well I'll be damned if it doesn't have a roll pin holding that steel sleeve on. When I first saw that I was not happy at all. Not only are they prone to walking out, as you showed, but this one's not even centered within the shaft itself. I'm tempted just to go back to the plastic sleeve because at least I know it'll stay centered.

[@jamesmedina2062]

There was a time when plastic was not a thing but metal working and especially cast iron is a thing of the past. Sometimes though plastic does the trick. Sometimes it doesn't.

[@goldsgarage8236]

It's crazy all the things that can go wrong with catastrophic consequences. I would go with the OEM plastic sleeve, time tested and proven.AG

[@Carl_Jr]

@@jamesmedina2062 Sometimes people type stuff which makes sense, and is meaningful. Sometimes it isn't.

[@jamesmedina2062]

@@Carl_JrYour point?

[@Carl_Jr]

@@jamesmedina2062 Trying to figure out yours

[@jaywalker7617]

Fatigue Proof steels offer resistance to wear and fatigue related failure. Also is a trade mark of LaSalle steel Corporation.

[@goldsgarage8236]

Thanks for the info Jay. You just gave me an idea for a future video about steel.AG

[@RwP223]

It's a steel stressed below it's fatigue limit theoretically will never fail from fatigue, materials 101. A material like aluminum does not have a fatigue limit.

[@goldsgarage8236]

You are correct RwP, any steel will be fatigue proof if stressed below its fatigue limit, even a clothes hanger wire. AG

[@pontiac411]

I spent a year gathering up parts to build my first SBC in the late 80s, upon start up I had no oil pressure... guess what part I forgot 😮 The guy at the parts store said, The good news is you'll never make that mistake again. He was right. In the late 90s I started using stock BBC oil pumps, Morroso sells a shaft for that.

[@ldnwholesale8552]

No SBC requires a big block pump. Causes more issues than it solves and wears out the cam driving it.

[@goldsgarage8236]

Thanks for commenting guys.AG

[@thisisyourcaptainspeaking2259]

There's also a steel version of the sleeve, which I use when available. I've never seen the plastic one fail.

[@goldsgarage8236]

Thanks Captian, me as well.AG

[@DavidB7474]

Yeah I bought the aftermarket steel shaft years ago. It’s a name brand. And it’s seem many rpm’s. Worth the price. It was cheap back then.

[@goldsgarage8236]

Thanks for commenting David.AG

[@USA-km9ph]

Just an fyi, if you use an aftermarket intermediate shaft arp, melling etc with a steel sleeve they do not lock onto the oil pump like the plastic gm. Beware when pulling distributor that it does not pull shaft off of the oil pump.

[@goldsgarage8236]

For sure, that would not be good, thanks for the good advice USA.AG

[@4speed3pedals]

You always say that you hope we find the information helpful. Today when I heard it, my mind recalled the Red Green Show (Possum Lodge). I like Red's closing statement statement that je emded each show with - "If your wife can't find you handsome, she should find you handy". Maybe that intermediate shaft needs duct tape to allow it to work efficiently. Lots of Chineseum on Amazon and they are unscrupulous with either using words that are false or give no information with which to make a valid decision with.

[@goldsgarage8236]

Amusing comment, thanks Stovebolt.AG

[@jamesstead1496]

Great video on how things inside your engine. Let's us know that some things are worth the money spent not to break down along side the road.🙂

[@goldsgarage8236]

Good point, thanks for commenting James. AG

[@mikecondoluci53]

i just bought one of those , glad i watched this looks like its time to weld the pin in thank you

[@goldsgarage8236]

Good catch, thanks Mike.AG

[@GNaron]

In 70-80's I always used a BBC pump on SBC and the plastic collar, it's what we had. It worked, tell it didn't. Back in the 80's I had the forks spread apart and bust off the oil pump shaft. So I made metal sleeve to go around the plastic collar tell I found morso made a steal collar shaft. For the last 10 years are so I use the Melling Billet Aluminum Shark Tooth Helical Gears Oil Pump. Pricey but worth it!!!! The pumps come with a drive shaft and couple different relief springs. Tech tip... make sure there's enough oil pan clearance on the side. Unless you enjoy R and R oil pans.

[@goldsgarage8236]

Good points, thanks for commenting G.Naron. AG

[@GregMargraff]

I worked at the billet mill at Inland Steel from 73 to 77 and went into an appreanticeship from there. It seems lately that a lot of items are marketed as billet nowdays that seem to be rolled plate, ie flywheels. Either way it's not cast but should be noted as the difference in grain structure. I would like to you with your experience get into that. Thank you Allen!

[@goldsgarage8236]

Thanks Greg, I have been in the Inland plant, probably about the same time. good suggestion on the video. The difference between cast and forged, and why one is better. I will work on that. AG

[@GregMargraff]

@@goldsgarage8236 Thank yuou Allen!

[@stevesadusky8634]

Good video AG... Cheap necessarily isn't always cheap especially if it ruins your build...👍

[@goldsgarage8236]

for sure, thanks for commenting Steve.AG

[@Thumper68]

Well if it’s pressed on then it’s two pieces and isn’t really billet is it?

[@goldsgarage8236]

Yes, you are correct Thumper, thanks for commenting Thumper. AG

[@smilsmff]

I just bought a $75 Chromed Gas cap , I went to install it. i set over the hole and began to just turn and it fell apart and down the gas tank tube into the gas tank as i heard the light screech sliding down . and Y1 said there is nothing wrong with the parts they sell

[@goldsgarage8236]

frustrating experience, thanks for sharing Smils.AG

[@Sam-ix9gd]

There is "Fatigue Proof" and "Stress Proof" Steel. Ryerson, Alro etc all carry it. Its normally modified 1144 for easier machining and heat treated. We use stress proof quite a bit for shafting. Its stronger and easier to machine than 1018 or a-36 etc. and similar plain carbon steels. Like your videos keep up the good work.

[@goldsgarage8236]

Thanks for watching and commenting Sam.AG

[@goldsgarage8236]

Sam, you have a good working knowledge of metallurgy and steel grades, thanks for contributing, you gave me an idea.AG

[@johnmilner7603]

I still use the GM nylon pump shaft connector. Why change when it works.

[@goldsgarage8236]

For sure John, they have worked fine in hundreds of millions of engines.AG

[@AllenMichael-pl6ps]

And people wonder why I deal with the local parts store that I've used for 20+ years. It's not a discount auto parts store either.

[@goldsgarage8236]

Good point Allen. I reliable supply of good parts from people you can trust is essential to success in building engines.AG

[@victoroneill7924]

I buy stuff from Amazon but the description of the item isn't always correct. I bought a set of Heli-coils to repair some threads on a 14 bolt Chevy rear end and it contained one 3/8" drill bit. When I tried to drill the first hole a corner of the drill broke off causing the hole to be off center. I read the instructions for the kit (should have done that first) they said this kit was for soft metals only. I returned it to Amazon but the damage was already done.

[@goldsgarage8236]

Thanks for sharing your experience Victor, it's buyer beware out there for sure.AG

[@billfioretti3013]

Wow! Disaster avoided. How many others aren't as fortunate as disaster ensued. Unfortunately, not uncommon with many products available today. Due diligence and Caveat Emptor.

[@goldsgarage8236]

For sure Bill, lots of risk out there. AG

[@Greg-sz8jz]

I have always welded the pin to the collar.

[@goldsgarage8236]

Thanks for the info Greg.AG

[@91rss]

with the modern oils and the lightweight oils manufacturers are using, it would be interesting to find them site or article just to see how much pressure someone needs in a VA. I can remember reading where Greg racer use an oil they had a accumulator in the vehicle, provide oil pressure, which helps because the engine have to turn one more thing for the eight seconds it was running. I'm sure that take technical courses so one of the first written on the board don't ever think your engineers with super computer but he said that we've all seen oil filters put in the most miserable place , you wonder if the engineers actually hate the rest of the people out there

[@goldsgarage8236]

Interesting comment, thanks for sharing, I loved the final jab about engineers. AG

[@johnweaver8470]

Buyer be aware great video keep them coming

[@goldsgarage8236]

Thanks John.AG

[@sangamonriverrats]

i earned a lesson way back in 80 .... don't buy cheap, generic parts for your build .... but yea the pump drive on the distributor should be help on with a roll pin NOT a cotter pin lmao

[@goldsgarage8236]

Thanks for commenting Mick.AG

[@dorianleclair7390]

Yeah that roll pin was not properly heat treated.

[@goldsgarage8236]

Thanks for commenting Dorian.AG

[@____MC____]

One time i used a modified oil pump shaft to prime the engine with a drill. I forgot i already took it out and spent a whole day and a trip to harborfrieght for some long pliers to pull the shaft out. I put the distributor in and did the break in for about a minute or so without oil pressure then tried again after i bled off oil to the sensor. Still no oil pressure. 🤦‍♂️took the oil pump drive shaft out. Engine threw a disco party. I now use a long modified rod that cannot be mistaken for a oil pump shaft.

[@goldsgarage8236]

Thanks for sharing Mc.AG

[@thisisyourcaptainspeaking2259]

I use an old distributor, I ground all the teeth off of the gear.

[@Charger1908]

I thought the arp one was the billet one? I never cheap out on just about everything I suppose that’s why I’ve never had an engine fail in the 50 years I’ve built them. I don’t build them to your scale but you can’t cheap out if you want it to live.

[@goldsgarage8236]

Thanks Charger, congratulations, you can's argue with success. AG

[@alleyoop1234]

Well oil beef hooked!

[@vrm86gt]

Good info!

[@goldsgarage8236]

thanks for your comment VRM.AG

[@vrm86gt]

@goldsgarage8236 small block Ford have issues with the oil pump drive, I always run the ARP drive, pretty sure Melling ships a hardened shaft with their "Melling select" line of oil pumps.

[@billhendon1017]

Thanks!

[@goldsgarage8236]

Thank you Bill.AG

[@doomman700]

I have never seen plastic fail

[@goldsgarage8236]

And neither have I, thanks Dooman.AG

[@joelpierce3940]

Sounds like Kamala! Word salad. 😂

[@goldsgarage8236]

Thanks for commenting Joel. AG

[@DeanStewart-t4v]

I enjoy your video's immensely. For my rebuilds, I would stick with oem parts when can.

[@goldsgarage8236]

Thanks so much for the nice endorsement Dean..AG

[@brianholcomb6499]

People get screwed everyday @ sometimes don’t find out until the engine is in, & they are trying to run it! Or worse, everything goes ok for a little while, then it blows up, or quits when they are far from home! Knock offs are sometimes very hard to see, if you don’t know what you are looking for! I wouldn’t want to trust press fit either! You could see that happen when Chrysler went to press on distributor gears, thick oil on cold mornings 🙄🙄🙄🙄!

[@goldsgarage8236]

all good points, thanks Brian.AG