This bookshelf speaker looks great, but where did I go wrong? HiVi Swans DIY Kit

[@DIYAudioGuy]

Catch part 1 here: kzbin.info/www/bejne/qWGxfGiYZtyigqM

[@bruceandt]

When I think about DIY, my mind starts at a point . Speakers… then come cabinets into my mind. That’s when I go down the rabbit hole. HDF, miter locked joints, inside cabinet coatings like Borosilicate paints, bracings inside the cabinet and rounding off the 90 on the round holes to create less refraction. If that’s all feeling good and tight? Crossovers and good adhesion to the cabinet. The best speakers in the world have incredibly built cabinets. B&W…Totem from Canada. Kef… super liked your video. Nice to see an honest build including the learning curve. Well done Sir.

[@williamborges3914]

Yup. Wood glue and an iron is the way to with veneer. But, buy your own iron so your S.O. won't try to kill you. 😂

[@DIYAudioGuy]

She does not need to know that I know how to use an iron.

[@TheLevitatingChin]

Very impressive flush mounting on the drivers. Well done.

[@smolscale]

3m super 90 spray adhesive is what I use at work to apply veneer to cabinetry

[@DIYAudioGuy]

I picked up a can of that the other day. I think it works better than super 77.

[@brianraulerson5037]

I have messed up on literally every project that I've done, both in audio and everything else. You learn from these mistakes if you don't give up. For example, you have to clean your flush cut router bit when cutting materials with adhesive on it. It will gum up your roller bearing and that will leave a burn mark on the veneer that you are trying so hard to look nice. Maybe I just bought cheap bits but that's another tip. Keep up the good work, Justin! I'll try to be awake to catch the show on Monday.

[@DIYAudioGuy]

I bought some tool cleaner in a spray bottle, it helps with those gummed up bits. lddy.no/1efp9

[@bigwave_dave8468]

cool kit! It's a good idea to test the drivers with the crossover before you assemble into the cabinets. Also troubleshooting can be frustrating if you don't have any kind of a signal generator/amplifier--software, oscilloscope or even an audio test CD as the source works in a pinch. The biggest risk in assembly is accidentally connecting the tweeter to the low frequency xover output and subsequently popping the tweeter. verify tweeter continuity with an ohm meter. other things to look for: cold solder joints, lacquer not stripped from the ends of the coil wire befotre soldering. use flux. If you do this more than once you want an oscilloscope and these are ridiculously cheap for audio frequency use. Many scopes Or PC based oscilloscopes include a signal generator function. have fun!

[@danielh12345]

I agree with the statement slow and steady wins the race. I built my first kit 2 months ago, researched lots. Tested the crossovers and speakers before mounting them and doing the veneer etc. They sound and look great, it was all new to me. Had never soldered or veneered anything. I'm handy but inexperienced. Good thing the internet exists and you can learn by watching and doing proper research:D Of all the new stuff I did, finishing is definately the most unforgiving part, it's hard to see imperfections until it's done. However, most people won't notice those, I know they're there, others look and listen and think wow. I look and listen and think wow, I did this. Its so fun to listen and look at your own project. Highly recommend! The best part is, now I'm more experienced and know I can solder and veneer, opens up other projects 😀 (p.s. I can highly recommend iron on method for veneering, I didn't have paperbacked veneer and it worked well for me. Just practice to get familiar with it on some scrap wood and veneer cuts you're not using. Allows you to test your chosen finish beforehand too :)

[@DIYAudioGuy]

Going to give that a try next time.

[@danielh12345]

@DIYAudioGuy wasn't meant as criticism btw! Just want people in the comment section to realise its not as scary as it seems :D Lots of people can DIY! Even people who are experts at veneering / soldering / anything really did it for a first time once. No reason we can't learn and get nice results if we take our time 😀

[@DIYAudioGuy]

@@danielh12345 you're good, I asked for feedback in the video so I expect some feedback.

[@mikestaihr5183]

Sometimes you can use a small needle to puncture the bubbles to release the trapped air. Try to work towards the hole to remove the trapped air.

[@walterbkeen]

Just ordered their 3-Way kit, and anxiously awaiting their arrival.

[@DIYAudioGuy]

I need to dig these out in troubleshoot them.

[@zarboaudioprojects1430]

Your veneer job looks a LOT better than the vinyl the kit came with, I'd consider that a win even though you ended up having to do it twice. Speakers that nice deserve real wood veneer! I've probably goofed up 5-10% of the speaker crossovers I've ever wired up to be honest. Having components on one side of a board, and connections on the other is a recipe for mistakes for me. Looking forward to seeing the finished product!

[@DIYAudioGuy]

I am sure these will sound great when I get them sorted out.

[@PAC-fp9hy]

I have veneered with wood glue, iron on glue and contact cement. My observation is that contact cement while relatively easy to apply, never actually sets and also reacts with certain wood fillers, creating swelling afterwards and allows indentations to occur easily afterwards. I use iron on glue for edge banding as the bubbling of the hot glue tends to create a good contact with end grain. For the flat panel, I use a rapid drying wood glue because of its tackiness after a few minutes which helps prevent bubbles forming. I apply one coat on the panel, but two coats on the veneer. Standard wood glue saturates the veneer more easily (because it is more liquid), but it also allows bubbling to occur as the wood fibres swell, so I avoid it completely (it also takes too long to dry). I have a very strong rubber roller to smooth out the veneer and then I clamp another board on top using clamps around the edges. I have a few cauls to clamp the middle section, but more often than not I use my collection of old car batteries to put pressure in the middle - the apply a little less clamping force but apply it more evenly. I see the benefits of a vacuum bag, but the price for a bit of polythene is a bit of a rip off, so I will stick with diesel car batteries! As for the trimming of the veneer, and edge razor is okay, but to be honest I achieve a more consistent result with a flush router bit (and it is a lot faster and there is not chance of tearing your veneer). For trimming the speaker recess, Whiteside make a flush router bit without a bearing that is very shallow. It is just the right depth for a speaker surround - just be careful to protect the recess with a bit of tape if using MDF as it can mark or score it (or run the router at a slower speed). Also, your initial cut needs to be smooth or else the bit will just follow a rough surface.

[@DIYAudioGuy]

I am going to try wood glue the next time.

[@ajmann07]

You rock Young Mann at explaining snd all the details within your presentation. We all make mistakes, and I'm sure you will have these jamming soon. Enjoy all your videos

[@DIYAudioGuy]

Thanks! I know I can get these working, just a question of how long it will take.

[@wingnutbert9685]

I haven't watched the original vid, but seeing that black, foil thin, crinkly cr*p that you were struggling with that the kit maker had the audacity call veneer. Hat's off for even getting it on in any amount. Wow! Dollar store mack-tack is better quality..... The walnut veneer looks much better! Couple things to try: For the corner edges, once trimmed and sanded flush, you can gently burnish the corners with a polished smooth, hard piece of steel or wood. This, when done right, compresses the outside edge of the veneer edge down. Sort of rounding it over like a very tiny bevel. It can make for a visually better transition where the two veneers meet at the 90 deg. corner. And for those that can't get the painters triangles and want a DIY substitute. Draw a 1" or 2" grid on a section of 3/4 ply (maybe 2'x2'). Drill 1/2" deep holes at all the grid intersection. Use a drill that is a match to the size of 1.5-2" brad/finishing nails you have on hand or buy. Stick 3 or more nails in the holes to sit the piece to be painted, on the grid where ever fits inside the dimension of the piece. I have the triangles but prefer these nail boards. I can paint a piece in my paint room on saw horses. When done, carry it out on the nail board and bring in another piece on another nail board. This keeps the floating over-spray from settling on the previous, still tacky piece and keeps the paint room from getting crowded. 'Cuz if you bump a freshly painted piece, it will always land jam side down! LOL!

[@DIYAudioGuy]

Thanks for the tips!

[@nathanjimbob7885]

So, did you ever fix these? How did they sound when wired properly? I watched both videos only to not have any idea of how they sounded.😂 They do look nice though

[@audioeeze8396]

My thoughts exactly. I mean, cmon I gotta know now lol.

[@Pentenfi]

For some magic reason, all my DIY projects so far turned out pretty well. I'm still waiting for the big "I messed up completely and start over". But messing up connections or polarity ist a classic. Still nothing you can't fix. As long as nothings broken, there is always a fix

[@DIYAudioGuy]

Worse case scenario I will have to order new crossover parts. Might go ahead and order them just in case.

[@Pentenfi]

@@DIYAudioGuy I'm sorry it turned out that way. But in the end it'll be fine. That's also why I like to cromp as much as possible. I am too bad at soldering properly

[@wingnutbert9685]

For finding those hidden pilot holes: Clamp a sewing needle in some small vice-grip pliers or just hold in reg. needle nose ones. Use your finger to feel for the hole on the inside of the baffle panel (if it's a through-hole). place the needle where you estimate it lines up with your finger a gently try to poke through. If you have enough hand/eye experience, you can hit it first try. But if not, the pin hole isn't as noticeable if it takes a couple tries. Go across the driver opening and find a second hole with the pin. Carefully drill these out or use a sharp X-acto blade to ream them out. Lay your driver in and line up the two holes. The other holes in the driver mount will line up with the rest of the pilot hole locations. Mark and drill/ream. Can also poke the pin through from the inside, in there's enough room.

[@DIYAudioGuy]

Good idea!

[@whome8192]

I had trouble with the inductors on my cross over being soldered, making a good mechanical fit, but not an electrical connection.. Try removing the inductors, and make sure to tin the wires, then install and solder. Also gently sand the exposed wire before tinning. These should pass full bass and attenuate the tweeter.

[@steveschwartz9421]

Looks like walnut! Another nice touch is to put a 1/2" round on the MDF on the front sides, run one pice of vaneer from the rear side edge, all the way around the front to the other rear side edge, looks really cool. The swan kits are excelant, best diy bang for bunk on the market (IMHO).

[@DIYAudioGuy]

Yes, it was walnut.

[@CCFIFresno]

You could always paint it with a textured paint. When you use a good primer the MDF actually looks great with this kind of finish.

[@DIYAudioGuy]

I've never tried to textured paint, anytime I need that kind of look I always go with the duratex. They make a white version that can be tinted.

[@deanedgx]

Great job, nice speakers.

[@shaunvoegeli9996]

I have found you really don't need stuffing in ported boxes at least not for small ones. I have a set of 12s that were sealed I took the stuffing out and stapled carpet padding on all the inside but the front. Replaced the old 200w Sony with çt bio 12 d4s run at 8ohm for home audio. Had an old dual 10in bandpass that parted for good terminals and the 4 ports. Put 2 in each box in the rear opposite the subs. I was worried the might be too free air and move to much but turned out great. Ran them direct full range. Ended up with big boom right on up to the mid without being too much bass

[@RealPivotTV]

Nght and day difference. I like how you don't edit out your mistakes and look for ways to turn into content your subscribers can use. Have you ever tried using vinyl wrap on an enclosure? Like the kind they use on cars? I used some on the trim pieces in my car it was woodgrain pattern and it came out amazing. When I finish the next enclosure for my truck that is what I am planning to use on it. It's super cheap on Amazon too. ;)

[@DIYAudioGuy]

I put some carbon fiber pattern vinyl on a center channel speaker once. So far it's managed to stick, the corners looked really ugly.

[@RealPivotTV]

@@DIYAudioGuy that’s what I have been wondering how it would stretch over the corners? I am gonna round off the corners as much as possible hoping it will make the turn well. I’ll post a video when it’s done but it will be awhile at least after the new year.

[@shaunvoegeli9996]

Looks like my old set of KLH 6 1/2in 6ohm woofer 80watt rms 120 max and took every bit of it + some each had a Ferro fluid tweeter in it rear ported and heavy for their size hung them in the corners of my room sounded great port about 1 foot away from the wall even better with the 15s of the same series but took 2x the power

[@skratchinator]

Check your solder points. The same thing happened to me when the drivers weren't putting out sound. I decided to put nails on each panels and glue was drying, big mistake.

[@DIYAudioGuy]

As soon as I get time, I hope to do it on camera.

[@CCFIFresno]

You can also use a textured coating like they use on shop floors.

[@DIYAudioGuy]

There's also a textured spray paint That's designed to give kind of a rough look it's designed for mailboxes. I've often times wondered how that would look. It's usually bronze or green or black.

[@CCFIFresno]

@@DIYAudioGuy I've sprayed the inside of my sub box builds with plastidip. It help's to push the air as opposed to the MDF absorbing some of it. I like that marble or granite rock tecture look especially in the house where I can choose between the many colors as an accent color for that space.

[@jayezy8768]

Great video as always. I have an unrelated question, I'm new to the car audio scene and wondering if I could get some advice on an idea. I have a 12" Kicker VR, 400watt rms dual voice coil at 4 ohm. I plan on getting a Taramps 400x4 to power it. The issue is that the amp is rated at 2 ohm on the 4 channels at 100watt each or 4 ohm bridged down to 2 channels. Wiring the sub in parallel will give me a 2ohm resistance and single channel on the amp will only power the sub at 100watt at a 2 ohm rating, wiring the sub in series for an 8 ohm load will give even less power in single channel. Ideally I like to drive the sub at 200watt atleast. My question is, if the sub is wired in parallel at a 2 ohm load and bridged to channels 1&2 or 3&4 at a 4 ohm rating on the amp, isn't that bad for the amp? Wont it likly go into power protect if I put a 2 ohm load on a bridged 4 ohm connection? And if not, I doubt I'll get 200watt from the amp with that connection. I had a thought as I had seen in a video that dual voice coil subs are technically like having 2 subs in one. That idea was to run 1 voice coil which is 4 ohm to channel 1&2 bridged at 4 ohm providing 200watt and run the second voice coil to channel 3&4 bridged at 4 ohm providing another 200watt which would match the subs rated 400watt rms. For the audio signal, I had thought to use a rca splitter from the head unit ch1 to split the signal to the amplifier channel 1&3 or 2&4 to get the same signal to the bridged channels of the amp going to each voice coil. Does anyone have an idea if this is even remotely feasible?

[@DIYAudioGuy]

You have run the numbers and they speak for themselves. Consider getting a different amplifier. Head over to nvx.com they have some affordable 5 channel amplifiers and you can use the code DIYaudio10 for a discount. Edit:. Yes you can wire a pair of bridged channels to each voice coil. But it's not something I recommend. Did you have not bought the amplifier yet I would recommend just getting a mono amp.

[@jayezy8768]

@@DIYAudioGuy I thought as much.Thanks so much for clearing that up. I considered nvx, guess I'll go with them just to be safe.

[@purplerider2362]

Usually I use the solder iron like at 700. Hold it there for a while to heat up enough to make super hot and melt solder. Hold for a few seconds to really heat all pieces thoroughly solder should penetrate wires.

[@DIYAudioGuy]

Great tip!

[@madlad_don2387]

your videos are always great man, just love to get a second opinion on set ups and audio equipment.

[@DIYAudioGuy]

Thanks!

[@stopher1971]

How about H2O veneer adhesive 😮💡 One drawback of spray adhesive is if you stain it, and the stain goes through it acts a solvent, and will eat up that spray adhesive and lift the veneer

[@DIYAudioGuy]

I need to find something different, like the heat activated iron on adhesive.

[@scottlowell493]

JBL actually duffed the 1980's L-240T towers like this. The tweeter was way too high above the midrange. You had top be too far away from the speakers before you got a proper stereo image. The tweeter should have been no more than 1" away.

[@1tsMnM2011]

Hello! new subscriber here. Any updates on the speaker kit? Just wondering what you did to fix the sound. Thanks!

[@DIYAudioGuy]

As best I can tell I just did a crappy job soldering the crossover. I think I got some adhesive on the circuit board.

[@1tsMnM2011]

Thanks!

[@chandrasekharmanjunathvara7505]

I have assembled the speakers and connected to amplifier but it is not working. please let me know what may be the problem.

[@DIYAudioGuy]

Probably the same problem that I had, a loose connection somewhere, or a bad solder joint somewhere. The only thing you can do is take it apart and troubleshoot it.

[@chandrasekharmanjunathvara7505]

@DIYAudioGuy thanks for your prompt reply. I am taking it apart

[@jaball77]

A year later and we're still waiting.....

[@Nagaboylkr]

Sir if i put two speaker ( opposite side)in one box for car will it work?

[@bobtherocker4598]

Hey bud all of us DIY guys screw shit up. Otherwise we would be professionals. I want to emphasize on your comment about "when you get it right,, it is rewarding" because it is so true. I know you'll figure it out. 👍🤘✊

[@DIYAudioGuy]

Even the professionals screw things up.

[@mullinperformanceaudio5902]

Those things are kicking your butt. I bet they will be amazing once you get the bugs worked out.

[@DIYAudioGuy]

Just part of the fun!

[@sermac3246]

👍

[@323hamstr]

new kit looks very different

[@elviscaragea4433]

Please someone, i need help, why isn't my sub hitting? I have an t212d2 the coils are fine, the amp is alpine pdx1.1000, the box is 40l 32hz (magnet outside) i know this is a small but man how this can sound worse than the dor speakers? Is just boomy and all over the place, all settings are ok, i can get a bigger box but i really don't want to get disappointed again

[@timmccarthy94]

Thought this video was about how the speaker sounded…

[@keithbailey5923]

Cut wire? Just heat up and un soldier

[@garyhysell8603]

Wow didn't think this was a "what not to do" video, thanks for wasting my time!

[@DIYAudioGuy]

Look at the video title. "where did I go wrong?" That should have given you a clue.

[@Soundbrigade]

NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO!!!!! Contact cement and veneer ....... just NOOOOOOOOOOO!!!!!! Else a good job.

[@DIYAudioGuy]

Next time I'm going to try some heat activated adhesive.

[@Soundbrigade]

@@DIYAudioGuy Wood glue is sort of "welding" pieces of wood together. The tighter the pieces are pressed together the stronger the glue works. And the opposite - wood glue is a bad "filler". Having no workshop to do complicated work, I covered my speakers with leather ripped from old sofas and used wood glue. I have to watch your videos on subs as I have an awful box with a 10" woofer (Dayton Audio DC250-8) and need something with a higher WAF (Wife Acceptency Factor), an preferable slimmer so I can hide it a bit.

[@scottlowell493]

Crossover oops?

[@DIYAudioGuy]

Yep. This was the first time I ever soldered onto a circuit board and I'm pretty sure I messed something up. I haven't had time to go back through and figure out exactly what went wrong.

[@phillipmaxwell5060]

Use a roller to smooth out bubbles.............