This Machine Makes Electromagnet Coils For Me

[@CraftAero]

You need some tension on the wire to spool evenly.

[@voney000]

Maybe some friction on the spool?

[@CraftAero]

@@voney000 Too variable. A clothes pin and a cotton ball right before the guide should work for thin gage.

[@francescamazur1799]

@@voney000 Introducing drag to the spool would help, but it wouldn't be ideal. This was my first thought. It'd be a really simple modification.

[@cranktowncity]

Well damn I have to try that now what a beautifully simple solution

[@CandorPerlicious]

Give some consideration to using a 3d printer nozzle coming off wire guide. You can get them in various sizes for your wire, or use a micro drill to modify one to your spec.

[@AlbertFilice]

Throw a mig torch tip into the gantry, or maybe a 3d printer nozzle for a quick feeder tip

[@DaveBuildsThings]

And here I thought I was the only person to build things like this on the fly rather than sitting down and designing the whole thing first. You build like I do. Using whatever parts I have laying around first and buying another part only if needed. Your delivery during the video is absolutely priceless. Don't ever change a thing about it. I was in tears laughing. Not at you. With you because I knew exactly what you meant while you were saying it. Loved the TIG welding explanations. So good, I had to subscribe. Looking forward to more.

[@andrewdavid86]

Cool idea! One thing you could so is use some 3D printer nozzles (which come in various diameters) and that would even make things easily interchangeable for thin and thick wires.

[@yepyep3402]

Long time no see, glad to see a new video!

[@DIYBuilds]

Been a while since I found a channel I love and binge watched. Thanks for the great content.

[@TheBlurriest]

🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉 CRANKTOWN CITY ON A FRIDAY It’s gonna be a good weekend.

[@joetkeshub]

You're a kind of genius dude! Entertaining and instructive as well. GREEEEEAAAAT as usual. Glad to see you back!

[@carlnelson3893]

So happy to see ya back! Thanks and great little project! I look forward to all that you do!

[@homemadelemonai7243]

really cool project, since starting to do this sort of thing myself recently I have developed a newfound respect for other peoples builds. Well done on your version 1. I hope it performs "well-enough" for your needs.

[@smellycat249]

Dude your videos are the bees knees. They are so fun to watch and a real great example of what people can do if you just try. You rock.

[@JackWilson327]

Man, you tackle some pretty damn complex projects from zero and you always get them done. Pretty cool and very inspiring.

[@johannvw1979]

Dude 43K subs!!! Congrats. I really really enjoy your channel. Keep it up

[@usarms149]

Still my favorite channel. Keep on keepin' on, dude.

[@paulb8264]

Definitely need a tensioner on the wire to get a nice tight wrap. I wouldn't put it on the spool like other are suggesting. I'd make a set of rolls like a MIG wire feeder. Two bearings pinching the wire as it's drawn through the brass tube will work great. Then pinch the wire spoil with some foam washers or springs. You want to provide enough resistance that spool can't free wheel.

[@cranktowncity]

I like that a lot, imma try it

[@ibrahimkocaalioglu]

Good job. Nice to see you back.

[@JohanErikssonSWE]

Well, i´m not here for neat and perfect, i´m in for brilliant and workable. A true pleasure to watch, as always

[@BenjaminSahlstrom]

Good stuff!

[@philip_fletcher]

Love these kind of projects. If you know the width of the wire and the width of the spool then you could (get the Arduino to) calculate the number of turns required and therefore only have to set one end stop - which if all your spool centres are the same design will be the same, even if the spool width changes.

[@sshh7510]

Always a good day when you upload

[@House0fwax]

Very pleased to see you again. Class video sir. :)

[@drewgossage8842]

Another awesome video cobba, thanks for sharing bud 👍👍 You always give me a laugh 😂🤣😂

[@RALLIR]

Just need to add a tensioner to the parent spool to help with a tighter wrap

[@JMassengill]

Good to see you posting again. The machine was a thing of beauty.

[@squelchstuff]

Nicely improvised there my friend. Anything that achieves a workable end result, is a winner. Dinger done!

[@borntobattery]

impressive improv engineering as always. be good to yourself !

[@linecraftman3907]

i think you can add some "fingers" on the adjustable limit switches so that they reach the edges of the spool and help you align stuff

[@arcrad]

Nice build as always. Glad to see a new video

[@chazmertes]

I appreciate your work so much! Thank you for sharing your life with us.

[@kevinaponte7078]

Glad to see a video it feels like it's been a while keep them coming

[@3xAudio]

fun project. thank for sharing the process with us

[@danielsimpson5167]

Woah... Never been so early to a video, glad to see what you're up to! :D

[@yutub561]

the 2 lead screws werent parallel to each other. You could tell when the first one or two plates got put on it. when you had to hammer the third on cause them to bend a tiny bit in between the other end plate and the gantry so the gantry would bind as it tries to bend the lead screws to the position they are parallel and equal distance to the spacing of the holes

[@johannvw1979]

Yeah I saw that too, and I was wondering if he'd put the failure in the video.

[@gannas42]

Holy sheet Dude lives! 😄 Kidding. Thanks for sharing this cool project! Don't feel bad about your tigs!

[@seabeepirate]

A plastic V could be attached to the gantry block to guide the wire straighter but that hop in the lead screw looks like a big contributor to the uneven winding. Also, with a low tension application like this you could probably make the spindle holders simple cone shapes and turn between centers so you don’t need custom patterns on all your coils.

[@hoarsebees]

I love this!!! Amazing work!! I‘ve always wanted to make something similar, with motors: just pumping out hundreds of induction motors

[@chrishayes5755]

very cool machine. I like it. you could try using a mig tip to feed the wire closer to the winding roll.

[@cranktowncity]

That's a really good idea

[@kylejuve5494]

Mission accomplished.

[@yertnamreg]

Kinda cool? It looks great dude. Nice work. Really appreciate your content

[@Vikingwerk]

So like others said, adding a little friction to the spool to keep the wire taught ought to help, and I think an easy way to add a guide to the wire to keep it closer to the spool would be some small tubing, with a MIG tip on the end, (MIG tip is 1/4-28 tap) and a knob set screw so you can adjust how far the tube sticks out of the guide block on the carriage.

[@newmonengineering]

Its hard to get a perfect wind. You need proper tension, also some sort of card that can push on the wire flat against the spool. Also it helps to manually put at least 5 turns on it to begin with and the guide needs to lag the actual wire hitting the spool a tiny amount to help it shrug against the previous wire. I have fooled with it a few times, its just a difficult task to get done. Looks good enough for what you need anyways, not sure its worth effort to make better. Can't wait to see whats next

[@Amipotsophspond]

19:19 you don't have enough room for this the way it is now, but if you softly bent the brass tube. so it keeps it tube shape and mount it so the bend is facing down towards the spool. the wire could gently slide out of the tube along it's internally bending wall and on to the spool. You could let the wire lead the wrapping and you would get that nice gapless turning that you want. I think bending the tube without crushing it involves filling the tube with sand so it does not collapse on you and using a special bending tube tool but you might be able to get away with just one of those.

[@thomasdowning622]

for your issue with the float past 2 decimal places you either need a long or large float parameter set in the code that converts or directly calculates that in the processor/or ISO but it has to be coded for decimal places calculations instead of binary decimal locations this article will explains it if you choose to read MichaelMeissner comments on the subject he explains what needed to understand floating point binary on most systems and ISO's that are most commonly used. and includes Arduino's in his explanation. hope it helps

[@3dexperiments]

This is inspiring me to design and build a pick up winder.

[@LuxGamer16]

Pretty neat! One thing you could do to improve coiling, is to add nozzles for differend wires. Tap a hole in the block, that way you have a fast way of changing them if needed. Think like a printer nozzle. And you can make a little holder with nuts welded to one of the arm on the inside of the big spool holder. And you need someway to add tension to the wire. Now its more or less loose.

[@shawnrinkel8377]

Hell yea bro👍 I love your content.

[@MsRandikay]

Waiting for.... " TAAA DAAA"! ☺️☺️☺️

[@matthewf1979]

Hey, V1.0 of the CTCCWM5000 ain’t half bad. For some quick n’ dirty EM coils, it’s perfectly serviceable. Best thing is you dont have to babysit it.

[@nraynaud]

you might be interested in luer-lock and industrial blunt needles to guide the wire with a think tube.

[@JordanMalan255]

The spool needs a bearing so its not jerking around on the all thread. And I’d attach a coffee straw to the feeder with a setscrew. But that a cool project regardless!

[@paulroberto2286]

Yooo! New video, let's gooo

[@dcmotive]

Man your ingenuity and programing are inspiring. Thanks for the video. Had been missing your posts.

[@memejeff]

Great to have you back.

[@eemonster]

I always wanted to try using a idler and a load cell to create a constant wire tension jig maybe even a motor on the spool that basically a variable regenerative brake

[@xavermaier9625]

3:57 That's a good one; I personally burned through several plastic clamp-covers when welding...

[@Psychoticgamer94]

Another great video, looking forward to see what you do with the electro magnets.

[@neffk]

The surface finish on the core of your electromagnet is important. A smoother surface will improve the pull of your magent.

[@MrTylerbrogan]

I think having the wire guide synced slightly behind the forming wrap would help it line up all neat like. You done did great though 👍

[@Protocol-X]

Interesting video. I enjoy how you always make something out of whatever you have lying around. It was nice to see a video after so long. I'm not sure how possible it would be to make this adjustable, but you might want to search for videos made about the topic below. It is designed for filament, but it does a very even spooling using a a mechanical mechanism to switch back and forth. Also, you definitely want to add some kind of bushing in the hole for the wire, so none of the coating accidentally wears off. Search subject: Bambu Lab P1 / X1 / X1C / X1CC Filament Spool Switcher & Winder if you use AMS

[@excitedbox5705]

Nice engineering job but I see a few big issues. Instead of limit switches to move the wire guide, you want to count rotations of the stepper x the lead screw threads. To input the settings of the coil it you need to input the desired coil length, coil inner diameter (bobbin OD), wire thickness and number of turns. Then you can convert the (wire thickness X Bobbin OD) / coil length to determine how many stepper turns to move the wire guide, per turn of the Bobbin AND how many turns of the guide lead screw before switching direction (don't forget to add an offset for wire thickness per layer). This is the only way to really get accurate wraps because as the wire and coil diameter changes the ratio of turns between the guide and coil bobbin changes. The wire guide hole needs to be smaller to make the turns more even and you want the wire to ride on a wheel or it will wear a grove into the guide until it breaks your wire. If you need to remove the bobbin from the coil it is better to split it in 3 slats lengthwise instead of through the middle, using the ends to hold the shape. Once you remove the caps you can remove the slats from the coil.

[@brownell10]

Ride a credit card or similar "squeegee" against the forming windings, like utility winch drums have. Binder clip on the feed wire for tension there (think mig wire wiper). That's what my vintage hand crank winder has. Tweak the guide/spindle timing to lag behind the current turn by half of the wire diameter, to keep them stacked tight. Change nozzle size/layer height on the bobbin print so the layer lines sorta force the first coil layer to wind evenly. This is my experience after doing SEVERAL dozen coils. Or feed the mag wire right into the extruder with the filament and 2-birds-1-stone that shit. Encapsulation bonus.

[@klausnielsen1537]

Great job for a first of try. And you can't argue about it if it works! T.Y. for being you!

[@theoriginyt4869]

Real programmer here! 15:20 you can try and convert your float into const char* with whatever precision you want and print it as text. You can try sprintf, which works the same as printf but your first arg is the buffer you want to store the text, instead of printing it out. Remember to allocate enough memory. Btw the machine is looking pretty slick , good job dude 😎

[@Sven_Dongle]

That conversion is happening somewhere anyway, doubt he is sending a raw 4 byte floating val to the LCD driver.

[@theoriginyt4869]

@@Sven_Dongle sure, idk how the arduino handles it, but it might help to just print text directly instead of the library handling conversion and everything else for you. Because it seems that text is printing fine. And that text should not be converted somewhere in the library, as we are normally using ASCII characters anyway, so it wouldn't make sense. But I cannot prove any of that 🙃 And I don't have a LCD display at home to try that😅😂

[@TheLordNemesis]

Arduino uses a very basic printing function to save memory. There are ways to include full printf support, either with libraries or with compiler flags.

[@cranktowncity]

Thanks, I'll give it a shot

[@thomasdowning622]

thank god someone can remember and didn't just have to give him an article to read.

[@martinfyhn1976]

The "Galanz" magnetron in your box of spares/wonders/scrap might have some ceramics that creates poisonous dust if it breaks, so it might be a good-ish idea to store it in a way that reduces the risk of breaking those ceramics 😅 As for the winder itself, as someone else said here, tension is your friend. And whatever contraption you make to make tension, consider making it so it can help straighten the wire. Maybe run it over a few pulleys in various orientations, which itself will add a fair amount of tension. You might also want to move the source spool further away to reduce sharp angles on the wire, which can cause bends on it, which can make a mess of your spool (if you aim for tightness, and perfection). Personally, I'd add the tensioner/straightener to the gantry, it will work best with distance from the source spool, and if it does not move with the gantry, it will require even more distance, which would end up making the whole machine take up a tonne (metric) of space. Adding it to the gantry will add weight and tension to the gantry though, meaning that you'll likely need to add some semi-serious linear railage to the gantry.

[@cranktowncity]

I actually have a cabinet for delicate stuff like that, that one must have escaped lol

[@robsadler2869]

Always fascinating to watch you. You have an engaging style! Two suggestions... As others have said, you need tension in the wire. Just to be sexist, check out your mother's/partner's/neighbour"s sewing machine, how the bobbin is wound. Very simple tiny pressure plate/spring thing. Winds surprisingly neatly without any other mechanism. The other suggestion.... Vaseline your hands! You're on your way to some irritating condition there. Vaseline before you start work, rubbed in well for a couple of minutes, and a couple more times in the day. (The bill's in the mail)

[@williamhuang8309]

Maybe you can improve the wire spool neatness by adding a little bit of friction to the larger spool of wire so that the wire is tensioned? Spools spinning on a non-moving axle don't tend to rotate very nicely and the tension in the wire changes a lot.

[@Engineerd3d]

Awesome! Well done!

[@TheBreadlord]

You know, for all it's kinda thrown together (seemingly), this is incredibly impressive. I'm interested in the stepper driver setup you've got. That looked like a Creality 8 bit board from an Ender 3 or similar - how are you driving it? Are you sending UART to it and did you need to do anything to Marlin? Also, what are you doing with the power supply? Arduino is a 5v system and I'm guessing the motors and board are 24v. I'm not a mechanical guy by any means, but if you had a light clock spring on the feeder rail that overcame a ratchet mechanism would that help with the neatness? Love this build. I'd be super interested in a set of DXFs or something for laser cutting out of ply. I can't weld.

[@Rebar77_real]

Coolage. Always wanted to do something like this for (re)building speaker coils. You'll be CNC winding Flies in no time!

[@Salkus1]

Industrial companies need you!

[@custos3249]

You need to put a tentioner on the bulk spool. The slack is what's causing your windings to go all over. As is, one of the wingnuts will always loosen as the spool turns.

[@ioscaleb]

Cool project! FWIW I think you could eliminate at least one limit switch if you just input the length of the spool… the controller can easily keep track of how far the carriage has moved and reverse when it hits the desired length. I’m eager to see what all these coils are for…

[@-r-495]

Our mechanics had to measure the tension on the belts we had in a fast moving rotary machine. Only the critical ones but anyway. I always use tensioners with a spring or two. One could also use spring steel as the tensioners lever and clamp/screw it neatly to the roller. Yes, I really use rollers not just steel nipples for tensioning timing belts. Seems to be some kind of workplace hazard but hey, that‘s me. Hope y‘all are doing well!

[@-r-495]

Just noticed you‘ve been touching up your workshop! Those planks on the wall look great, I just hope it isn’t an acoustic panel because they usually contain insulation that can be set on fire. There have been incidents with burning studios recently..

[@bowieinc]

This was a perfect video. Used to have a couple swabbing rigs for nat gas wells. Spooling the wire coming out of the hole was an art.

[@garbleduser]

Great work! Are you still using the turkey tail mushroom?

[@Gunbudder]

why not have the limit switches come off of the tail stocks so they are always in the right spot?

[@PaxAnders]

"little bumpies" = Lovejoy connector lol. Great build!

[@cranktowncity]

The more you know lol

[@squishy312]

You could make some guitar pickups with this thing. They usually have over 3000 turns.

[@RMRobert39]

Awesome to see another video from you! I found your channel randomly one day and subscribed immediately. Keep it up man 👍

[@noatreiman]

oh he’s back

[@alexstone691]

You can use a basic piece of steel sheet as build plate just put some paper glue on it, i've been using it for months now as i've ruined my magnetic sheet with the included scraper in like a month, i just flipped the magnetic sheet and used the bottom side

[@daylen577]

What happened to lowering the bar? This is amazing

[@sakemaki10]

I haven't worked that much with magnet wire but won't you scratch the coating by pulling it over bare metal? I would have put some soft tube in the hole.

[@TheDistur]

That's a dang cool project.

[@StraightLineCycles]

when the wire passes through the aluminum block, does it strip any of the coating? i suggest a nylon insert for different wire thickness.

[@SHAD0WZOMBIE]

i buy the creator 3 replacment stick down bed things and cut them to size for my printer..Work great just use razor to maintain flatness

[@michaelboyle4553]

Thank you

[@CharlesVanNoland]

Oh noes, he discovered electromagnetismals!!! Now this channel's going to be off the chain!

[@RiderRickMaker]

2 things, tension and maybe step adjustment, eveything else.... excelent!

[@voney000]

May be worth printing a nipple for the wire to go through, you could have one for each gauge you want to wrap and just switch them out. Add some tension like @CraftAero suggested and you're good.

[@julias-shed]

Really cool as usual 😎

[@youkofoxy]

First time I see you actually over engineer something. All you nee is: Metal Pipe Metal tube as bushing. Some lubricant. A Way to tension the wire. Su add notches on the tube and pipe, spin the pipe, the coil should be firmly attached to the tube, make so the spool of wire has some drag to it. Done. Also, I have seem perfect neat wrap done by a sewing machine, it used one wire tensioner and a tab that pressed again the reel. You should look it up, is one of those very old ones that is totally manual. P.S.: that Steel rood is surely the way to go.

[@paulroberto2286]

To solve the issue with only 2 decimal.places showing up, you can do Serial.print(value, number-of-decimal places). Since you're printing to the screen, I'm not sure if your LCD library supports this, but it's worth a shot! awesome video as always!

[@LunaticCharade]

i thought the same, but the second argument in the default liquid crystal library only uses the second argument as "base". i mean, also useful but pretty daft for them to be exclusive. The simplest workaround if probably to first use a print function to "print" the number to a string with desired precision, and then print the string to the display

[@paulroberto2286]

@@LunaticCharade ah that makes sense

[@bob12197]

That lead screw wobble and some way to tension that wore being wrapped around that should fix your problems

[@bob12197]

I see coil gun in you future video

[@evanhughes6788]

thread the hole for the wire pass through thingy an use a 3d printer nozzle to help guide the wire

[@DoRC]

It was getting jammed because the spacing on your bearings doesn't match the spacing on your wire guide block.. That's why you had to hammer it all together. When you hammered it together you Bent the lead screws.

[@crassbusinessman3122]

Fuck yeah, SO glad I saw you on my feed. Came out good! Just a potential suggestion, can you tap out the hole for the outfeed portion of the machine, so you can thread in a 3d printed fitting that gets you super close to the spool? I'd do that in place of that brass tube. That way you can change out the 'tip' based on the wire size and spool size without having to make crazy mods to it. You can have a couple of standard sizes this way.

[@GeoffreyPitman523]

What type of heated bed isn't sticking?

[@kurttaz]

Arrr, good Olll Janktown😅

[@ultimape]

I'm curious if this design could be replicated with mostly 3d printed parts, or if the thing being made of metal is important for accurate winding? I mean other than the motor and the rods/bearings ofcourse.

[@cranktowncity]

It absolutely could, I only use metal because I can't stand waiting for prints lol

[@ultimape]

@@cranktowncity I've been going thru some old notes I have on 3d printed CNC mills and saw that I can modify the DIY Dremel CNC by Nikodem Bartnik (on thingaverse/youtube) as a base for this - just replacing the rotoary tool mount with your wire guide. I think this also would be wonderful for spooling home-made filament. I love the modular spool clamp.