Engine Head Gasket / Cracked Head Repair (Toyota 3.4L V6 5VZ-FE ) - Part 2

[@OlafNolle]

Dear Timmy and Sean: As a South African now living “Down Under”, thank you for taking much time and putting the effort into making this tutorial video set - to help others rebuild of their beloved Toyota 5vz-fe engine. This was a truly professional job! Without your dedication, I would have failed at saving my Landcruiser Prado. I am so grateful and wish you both all the best as you selflessly inspire others to do the same!

[@TimmyTheToolman]

@OlafNolle Thank you to our South African Aussie Toyota Brother. We loved what you wrote.

[@andrewb2326]

A perfect instruction set on pulling apart the top and front of the 5vz-fe. Best there is. Your approach and technique in your videos more than matches pro shops I reckon.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Thanks for the nice compliment Andrew. I do think a DIYer can do as good and often a better job than the "Professional". A lot of shops and dealerships work off the Flat Rate system. The faster a mechanic gets jobs done, the more money he/she makes. I don't know about you, I don't want a mechanic that's in a rush working on my rig.

[@samh6761]

I made myself a 2x4 crank pulley tool when I did my first timing belt on my Tundra. Actually, I did the starter bump method to get the bolt off, and that worked perfectly, but when it came time to torque the bolt back on I was like, "well... sh*t". The bolts that I used were bending and the wood was splintering apart, but I managed to get it torqued to spec! Never again. The Schley tool is well worth the $.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Yeah, when I saw that tool was available, I didn't hesitate to buy it. It's money well spent.

[@jaredt8883]

Nice, when you got to the point of removing the timing belt tensioner, I thought, "next take off the AC compressor and bracket". And then you just went and slipped back behind it with a long extension and removed the tensioner. Mind blown! I have replaced the water pump twice on my truck and this would have saved me a bunch of headaches. Well done.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Thanks Jared. I borrowed that trick from someone else. I'm sharing it along.

[@Sean20Gaming]

Watching these videos makes me want to restore my 4runner. One part at a time.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Turning wrenches is fun, but it can also be frustrating. It's a love hate relationship.

[@benaldredge2671]

Tim, excellent video man. You guys put out the best, detailed videos…..without annoying background music.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Thanks Ben. I agree with your sentiment about videos with background music. Seriously distracting and annoying.

[@turnah8242]

My goodness you guys are ambitious and produce good content. That's why we all keep coming back. Maybe it's time to stop fighting fires (training the new guys) and open a Pro Toyota shop. You guys would do great. Wanted to pass on something. This past weekend I did the bearing / axle seal job for the first time ever on my driver's side. In your Part II video near the end you commented that you got lucky re-attaching the brake line. That you normally have to fight a bit. I have dealt with the exact same thing. Seems the problem comes from the fact you have to physically bend that hard line back away from the backing plate. Then that bend causes mis-alignment when bringing the hard line back to reattach it. So I realized there is a small bracket holding the hard line to the side of the axle housing. I removed the 10mm nut and was able to freely move the brake line away from the backing plate, no bending required. And it made the re-attachment super simple. And for anyone reading this and considering doing the bearing / seal job on your truck do not, repeat; do not try and MacGyver your tools. I tried to 'build' a seal installer. What a failure. Be smart, listen to Timmy and Sean and get some quality tools in the beginning. I was down an extra (4) days because of trying to save a little cash.

[@solosoundlapaz]

Thanks for sharing your knowledge, product of a long career of work well done.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Thanks for the compliment of our channel. Sean and I appreciate it! Yeah, this is an ambitious project, but taking on the more involved projects is what really separates our channel from most of the rest of the DIY Automotive Channels. We're not scared to do the work necessary to document these big jobs, like the engine swaps we've done. Thanks for sharing your tip about an easier way to get the brake lines reconnected. I think I might have actually used that technique once. And yeah, it's hard to beat the axle tool our buddy Duane makes. It's the perfect tool and very affordable. Thanks for the comment. We appreciate it!

[@turnah8242]

@@TimmyTheToolman Just to clarify, I was using Duane's excellent axle tool from the start. I was convinced when I saw you and Sean use it in Part II. The tool I tried to 'build' was a tool to install the new Toyota factory seals. My son saw me failing miserably and expressing my disgust with the seal install and he quickly had an OTC kit ordered and on the way. So I have wanted to ask if you guys have ever seen (in person) one of those Hilux 4WD pickups with the bizarro front joint at the wheels. It acts as a CV joint between the front axles and the wheels. It is the size of a softball and there is one on each side. Looks like an early version of Toyota's idea of a CV joint. If you could get your hands on one of those pickups that would make for some interesting viewing. Last thing, your choice to not use 'click bait' titles is very much appreciated. When I see that obvious attempt on other channels I don't even bother to waste my time.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

@turnah8242 Are you talking about a solid front axle? That's what it sounds like. Check out this video I did servicing the front axle on my 85 4runner. kzbin.info/www/bejne/lXulg6SFfZt0o5Y Yeah, we aren't the click bait type. I see how that can be beneficial to the content creator because it's effective, but we don't partake in that. We just put the name or title of the video on our video thumbnails.

[@turnah8242]

@@TimmyTheToolman That's it......hmmm.....a solid front axle. Embarrassed to say I missed that video. What an odd joint. I first saw that thing when looking at some still images of a much older 4WD Hilux. There were some images from under the truck and that round looking joint was right there in plain sight. I knew what it was doing but I had never seen one before. Well, time to watch your (2) solid axle videos. On a different note: you guys reach a very broad audience as I'm sure you know. I have sourced parts from Toyota dealerships from San Antonio, to Florida, to CA to Arizona. I always ask the parts department guys if they watch your channel and everyone I have asked says they watch. I get a chuckle out of that. The 'pros' watching Sean and Timmy! There's no doubt, the dealership techs are watching as well.

[@HumbleGolds]

omg. step by step for dummies. best ever. thank you.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Thanks and you're very welcome!

[@tylaroverturf]

Fantastic video as always. This series will help a lot of people.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Thanks for the compliment and you are right. This series will help out a whole lot of people. We were way overdue to produce this series. Stay tuned for Part 3 where the job gets even more interesting.

[@JustATakit]

I am sorry but I just could not handle the fact that Tim felt like he had to explain every muscle movement he made while doing this. I mean its a head gasket, not rocket science or at least I don't think it is. Unfortunately I will never know because as I take my fingers and type out this message on my Lenovo Idea pad 3 with a touch screen and blah blah blah information overload jezzz! Honestly this is a me problem and I thank you guys for the time you took out of your life to educate those who are needing help.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

When we make videos, we don't assume any level of knowledge of the viewer. As soon as we do that, we lose people. You might see it as information overload, but I guarantee a lot of people will appreciate every bit of detail we provide. Hopefully you find a channel that makes videos tailored perfectly to your level of automotive knowledge. If you can't find that perfect channel, you can always come back to us and endure all my blah, blah, blah, to get the information you seek. Remember, there is such a thing as fast forwarding. Some guys even play our videos a 1.5 times speed. You're welcome.

[@Amraam23]

Grate video!!! 1 tip. You could loosen camshaft bolts before removing timing belt. Just block it. Like U did witm crankshaft bolt ;)

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Thanks for the compliment and the tip.

[@ppeterson9359]

Another excellent video!! When I did my timing belt, etc I had planned to do the cam seals, but wasn’t able to remove the bolts. Next time I’ll be sure to have a Sean available.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Thanks for the compliment. Yeah, get yourself a Sean or an impact gun. I think the impact gun would be more affordable. You don't have to feed your impact gun.

[@jackwalsh1468]

Tim, another great episode. Cheers, Mate.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Thanks Jack! We appreciate it!

[@aldomassa7473]

Excellence !! As always Thanks Tim, really really good content.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Thanks for the compliment and you're very welcome.

[@meatcreap]

Thanks! I love how thorough this series is! So so helpful!

[@TimmyTheToolman]

You're welcome Larry. Glad you found our series helpful.

[@Ewdarkwolf]

A few years ago I watched, watched and took notes, and re-watched your timing belt, and water pump vids. Fantastic. I also took your advice on the needed tools. Haven't regretted it at all. Question: Where did you get the Factory Service Manual? I've been looking for one and will be getting a 4 runner soon, so having a FSM would be very helpful.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

You can find FSM book sets for sale on Ebay. Just search for your year and you'll most likely find a set.

[@YotaNation]

Awesome content! As always.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Thanks!

[@stevegannonhandmade]

If you remove the top 2 screws holding the A/C condenser in place (find them on the outside of the crossmember) you will be able to move the condenser enough to get the big Dewalt impact in there to remove the crank bolt. No other tool needed to hold the crank pulley/harmonic balancer. At least it worked on my '98...

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Nice! Thanks for sharing that tip.

[@safeteyvalve]

Hope you’re doing the torque specs when putting it back together- please. Thanks.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Of course we are. Some of the more insignificant things might get the Gudentite spec, but anything critical will definitely get a torque value that we will share in the video. Reporting Torque Values will start in Part 5.

[@darylbrooker5011]

I am following your video at the money doing my head gasket. Glad you go through detail. What happens when you can't get timing gear lined up on all 3 marks. I can bottom dead centre but the top 2 are out. Tried for an hour turning the gears over like in your video and still nothing Cheers

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Are you saying the crankshaft timing mark is lined up but the two cam pulleys aren't lined up?

[@darylbrooker5011]

@@TimmyTheToolman Yes that is correct

[@TimmyTheToolman]

@@darylbrooker5011 Well, that doesn't make much sense to me. When you get the crankshaft timing gear lined up with the timing mark on the oil pump, the cam pulley timing marks should either be lined up or 180 degrees off. If they are 180 degrees off, one more full revolution of the crankshaft should bring the cam pulleys in alignment with their timing marks on the cover behind them. Was the engine running before you attempted this job?

[@darylbrooker5011]

@TimmyTheToolman Yes the motor was running and not a problem then It was blowing thick white smoke and milky colour under oil cap

[@darylbrooker5011]

I measured it up and looks like 75mm off to the right when bottom is lined up

[@vbnautical5041]

Is that a leak at the oil pump or just drippage from filter changes? Im still tracking a leak after complete valve cover job I did. Thanks for education!

[@TimmyTheToolman]

That's a very good question and we don't know the answer. We suspect some was coming rom that through hole in the oil pump that the #1 idler pulley connects to. When we did the timing belt job years ago, we didn't put sealant on those threads. It's hard to say if the actual oil pump housing seal to the block is leaking. It certainly could be. Another thought was the crank seal, but that didn't look like it was leaking and we replaced it when we did the timing belt job. So, hopefully most of it originated from that #1 idler pulley through hole and we stopped the leak by putting sealant on the threads when we built the engine back up. If it is the oil pump housing leaking, it could be a concern, but the leak wasn't that bad. It wasn't producing drips on the ground. That oily crud build-up took years to create. You're very welcome. Stay tuned for Part 3. The job gets a bit more interesting when we perform the steps to get the heads off.

[@robertgadaleta8611]

@@TimmyTheToolman Thanks for the reply. Yeah, there's potential on mine that its going on top of the oil pan and around to the rear main seal making it seem like there's a leak there. Already did the leaky oil cooler too. I just want the bottom of my engine dry for crying out loud! lol.

[@safeteyvalve]

Is it necessary to remove crank shaft timing gear if only doing typical timing belt, water pump, etc.??

[@TimmyTheToolman]

No, it's not. It's only if you're going to replace the crankshaft seal, behind it. We removed it so Sean could be more effective at cleaning the area behind it and so we could examine the crank seal to see if it was leaking.

[@JustiNDalT0N1]

My 4runner has a knock at acceleration, big white cloud at coke start, and not running that great. Could knocking be related to head issue?

[@TimmyTheToolman]

It could be a head issue. I suggest doing a compression test followed by a leak down test of any cylinders that have low compression. Here's a link to our Compression Test video: kzbin.info/www/bejne/oaqak6Gam6ujhZIsi=xLFSCzZg-qeim7lR Here's a link to our Leak Down Test video: kzbin.info/www/bejne/bqrYdHuwpq1qg7ssi=r4e1xxmFH1NJZH-C

[@JustiNDalT0N1]

@@TimmyTheToolman I just posted a video on my channel of my noise. Do you care to take a peek at it

[@Skaterjessy019]

can you make a video of how to get timing back to where it needs to be I had my marks and now idk if they are correct

[@TimmyTheToolman]

We have a timing belt job video you can reference. Otherwise this video demonstrates where the cams need and crankshaft timing gear need to be positioned. Those marks will help you get everything to TDC. How did your engine get off timing? Are you doing a timing belt job? Or do you think the belt jumped a tooth and now your engine is running rough? - Sean

[@Skaterjessy019]

@@TimmyTheToolman hey thanks for the quick response. So I was originally going to do a cylinder head gasket replacement but I was having a hard time removing the timing belt pullys off so when I attempted to remove them idk what happen and then the crank pull y Everytime I’d turn it the belt would be very loose and it seemed like it was jumping because I was not able to get them to align anymore so now I’m just lost stressed out because I haven’t removed the heads due to the fact that I don’t to do anything else. Also, then after I figured maybe just removing the engine would be best but I mean idk at this point. It’s rough because I barely have enough time.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

@@Skaterjessy019 If you don't have a friend that can hold a camshaft pulley holder for you while you break free the crank bolt with a breaker bar, invest in an impact gun and you'll be able to zip off the bolts with ease.

[@gcam12000]

Timmy thanks, who better work on your rig with care and precision than who drives it. Car engineers say learn how to fix it cause you’re driving it.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

I couldn't agree more. I'm always telling people they are the best person to work on their own rig because they have the vested interest to do the job right. There are good mechanics with integrity. There's also plenty of dishonest and incompetent mechanics. I don't do 100% of all my own work, but I do most of it.

[@lexieharkness8755]

Do you have to do the crank pulley?

[@TimmyTheToolman]

No, you don't. I linked that guy's KZbin channel video series where he doesn't remove the crank pulley. We wanted to do the complete timing belt service as part of this job, and that's why we removed the crank pulley. So, access our video description for the link to that other video series, and you can see how he did it. Good luck.

[@luisruiz8636]

I m looking for part#3

[@playlist-hj4py]

God bless same here man

[@TimmyTheToolman]

It's coming soon to a theatre near you.

[@playlist-hj4py]

🙏🙏🙏

[@andrewb2326]

Yes the suspense and anticipation. Makes me feel young again.

[@tannerjurgensen2886]

Would this still apply to a Japanese imported Hilux Surf

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Yes, if it has the 5vz-fe engine. This wouldn’t apply to the diesel version.

[@tannerjurgensen2886]

@@TimmyTheToolman I’m in over my head with this surf lol. Are all the parts the same?

[@TimmyTheToolman]

@tannerjurgensen2886 It's hard for us to say if everything is exact because we've never worked on a Hilux engine, but it's still a 5VZ-FE engine, so it's got to be nearly the same. So, regardless, this series will help you