Never Break Another Tap: The Complete Guide to Tapping Holes in Metal

[@todayletsbuild2153]

Great video! I remember a few years ago when I was trying to learn more about taps, it was hard to find good video information. I found a company "speed taps" and I like them for my jobs. With them, the hole is slightly larger than the normal hole, but nowhere near as much as the rollover taps. You run the speed taps in with an impact gun. As for broken taps, I found a great way to remove them. With the end that broke off in your hand, put a wide hose clamp loose on the end. Set against the piece in the part where it matches up.. Then, stuff the flutes with tig wire, tightening the clamp. Drive the tool into the part and back out. Has worked many times over the years.

[@TimWelds]

Thanks! I just looked up those speed taps and they look really cool. Great tip using TIG filler to get out broken taps, I've never seen that before. I always learn something from the comments on these videos. BTW, I just clicked over to your channel. That F-clamp fixture table mod is really smart and I think I need a trailer crane now too. Keep up the good work!

[@todayletsbuild2153]

@@TimWelds thank you. I will.

[@Stefan_Van_pellicom]

Great video! I like to use spiral flute taps for everything.

[@UniversalEngineer]

Wow! So clear! So thorough! Whether welding or metal work, this guy rocks! 👏

[@simplesamlow1912]

Never broken a tap so I thought I didn’t need this video. Still learned so much. Thank you!

[@xnavynuc]

You must’ve been taught well! I broke several taps in my early years, even after being told how to do it properly. My biggest errors were being impatient (trying to turn the tap just a BIT more than I should before backing), and not using a drill block to keep the tap straight.

[@xyz-yf2kr]

Lucky you on the broken tap front :)

[@Bondodon1849]

Nice vid, Tim! I use the same guides to keep the tap perpendicular to the work piece and find that it works well to use a locking C-clamp to hold them in place so I can use two hands on the tap handle. I'm going to try the Anchorlube as the typical cutting fluid runs all over and makes a mess. Thanks for the tip!

[@TimWelds]

Thanks! I'll have to try that with a C-Clamp.

[@jjmcrosbie]

Thank you for the video. I hadn't seen the spiral point tap before. However I have two points to make: 1 - I have found sets of three "progressive" taps. They have the same tapers, ie taper, mid (you call it plug) and plug (you call it bottoming). Or simply 1, 2 and 3. They have another feature: the overall thread size of the no. 2 tap is ever so slightly less than the no.3 tap, and the no.1 tap is ever so slightly smaller than the no.2 tap. And that makes a huge difference to the ease of tapping. 2 - I made my own tapping guides in my very basic lathe from steel bar. Each hole is threaded. I only need Isometric Standard M3, M4, M5, M6, M7, M8, M10 and M12. I made two blocks, one has 5 guides M3-M7, the other has 3 guides M8-M12. If you keep the orientation of the block constant, you guarantee that the no.2 tap enters exactly as the no.1 entered and likewise the no.3. So no risk of cross-threading or cutting a second thread. Of course I understand that shops which use UNC, UNF and all the other threads would find my approach cost too much time, and finding "progressive" taps might be impossible or at least expensive. But I assume that youtube videos are aimed at amateurs - OK, serious amateurs like me - and it is to these people that I commend my approach. And while we're all here, another super-useful DIY jig is to take a flat bar, say 4×15mm (not critical). Along the centre-line drill and tap one hole each of (in my case) all those threads M3-M12, then make a thin saw saw cut down the CL to a point maybe 20mm past the last hole. File a V into the beginning of the saw cut. Clean the burrs out of the threads with their corresponding taps. Now you have the ideal jig for sawing and/or filing short amounts off screws which you can't vice. Enter the screw in its corresponding hole until it protrudes by the amount to ne removed. Clamp the split part of the bar in a vice. Saw off the unwanted bit of the screw. Take the bar out of the vice, advance the screw a couple of turns and return it to the vice. File the bur off the end of the screw. This is the only practical way of removing (say) 3mm from a small or countersunk screw. In theory you can split a nut and use that instead, but you'll find that bar worth making and keeping handy. Regards.

[@Bradleyscience]

Thank you Tim, it brings us up to date on the latest options. Cheers

[@rjiggy07]

Anyone can break a tap, but it takes a true mechanic to get in out. I was told that 40 years ago as an apprentice Diemaker.

[@longrifle.]

Good info for the home hobbyist. You should follow this up with a vid on thread classes and G /H numbers. So viewers can understand all those numbers and letters on the end of a tap. Dies as well. As a machinist. Greenlee is my usual goto even with some 3A/B class threads. If your dealing with odd size or even more odd thread pitch Brownell's has excellent taps. Especially with sizes under 1/4" with non standard thread pitches. With taps you absolutely get what you pay for! I would offer, never ever tap a hole without lubrication! No one likes to deal with broken taps. Tap Magic is readily available in small enough quantities just about everywhere. My go to for aluminum is AlumTap.

[@robertluich5656]

I have never broke one Ender, quite easy to use. I have no problem with

[@broughxtreme]

Very good video. I don't have a big set of taps but just have the common sizes. I hate those Tee-bar drive tools, so on some of my smaller taps I have welded a nut on them and on the bigger taps the square drive will often fit into a 12 point socket. Then I use a Tee-bar socket driver or a drill with a socket attached.

[@tedbastwock3810]

Fantastic video. This and your other tap & die vid are priceless ... (as is your whole channel :-) Thanks Tim!!

[@melgross]

Very good. Tim can’t cover every Liu t in a video without making it really long, so I’m going to mention a few things. I tell people to not bother getting “hand taps”. There are a very few places where they are an advantage, but it’s really just a very few. Use spiral tip taps instead. I’ve almost never used a taper tap. I know I should, but unless you’re buying a set, which I almost never do, I have very few. Unless you’re tapping hard material, just being careful is fine. With spiral flute taps, I have to warn people that as the cutting force is concentrated on just a very few teeth at the front, these taps are very delicate. Never use them for anything other than cutting the last two or three turns at the bottom of a hole, and do it judiciously. Also when tapping, if the cutting force suddenly rises, stop!!! Something is wrong and turn just a bit more and you will snap the tap. You can snap a half inch tap more easily than you think. Feel is very important in tapping, particularly with small holes. The tap on small holes from #10 downwards will actually twist when you tap if forces are strong. Aluminum isn’t easy to tap, be careful. I have taps for aluminum, but if you feel, you don’t need them. Lastly, don’t use any lube on cast iron, no. Matter what you may see on KZbin. It’s a bad idea on several levels.

[@TimWelds]

Thanks Mel! Great tips!

[@amcustomfab]

Learn something new every day great video

[@TimWelds]

Thanks!

[@JustinMiales]

I have a set of spiral taps, excellent set of taps

[@davecarr6164]

Very useful video and easy to watch. Thanks!!!

[@petestrunk6473]

That taper on the tap in the fluted area you are talking about is called a gun. Rolled thread taps go about .020 over your standard tap hole is great starting point. Use good quality taps.

[@tristansevertson5014]

you can also use the tap blocks for straight drilling holes too

[@prodigy750]

Use a drill or mill to make your hole and when you switch to the tap you wanna chuck it loose preferably with you hand not as tight as you can get it but tight enough so it can cut for a few rotations, when it bits and the chuck spin on it, loosen and remove the chuck and finish finish it by hand, it won’t mess up your tap or chuck jaws cause it’s not tight enough but you’ll get good enough that you an shut it off almost before its spins and obviously if it’s cut deep enough without spinning just take it off anyway, works great, especially if you only have a drill press!

[@houdini8o8]

i think another factor on breaking taps are the sizes of the holes you are tapping... by this i mean on the better sets they give you the size of the drill bits you need to tap, but they also show you the percentage strength of the tap threads your making. the stronger the threads the smaller the hole to run the tap through. the bigger the hole the easier the tap but isnt the strongest holding

[@bryantburns3664]

Im my experience a very small percentage of people know this. I would never go more than 65 percent thread ever. 55 percent thread is fine too Especially in stainless i will NEVER go more than 55 percent

[@bryantburns3664]

This is the answer to broken taps. This is the most important thing. Short answer DRILL YOUR DAM HOLES BIGGER!!!!!!!!!

[@GaryT1952]

Excellent info Tim!

[@TrPg]

Good lubrication is always important

[@MrOshirinoana]

I remember so many angry trips to Sears with my dad in the late 80's to replace these things haha.

[@danharris3319]

Excellent video as always, thanks Tim

[@scrapperstacker8629]

Great informational video thanks for sharing your knowledge.

[@Birb_of_Judge]

Yeah, as a Maschinist it always hurts me to see how people use taps and which ones. And honestly, all taps we use in the shop are what lay people might know as CNC only taps. All made by atorn not very expensive but great quality. All one pass and done, they stay sharp long and let you know when they've gone dull. Something very nice is that they all have a relief before the main shaft, so you can go very deep into the material

[@TimWelds]

Thanks! I'll have to check out those Atorn taps.

[@Birb_of_Judge]

@@TimWelds one piece of advice buy in bulk. So at least 5 each should be a little cheaper that way

[@andyb7754]

Very good information Tim, thank you.

[@LordHolley]

Great info!

[@jerrygoldfuss466]

Thank you for the information ,it'll come in handy.

[@mrhollywood5285]

GOOD one Tim ....... really informative. Thanks

[@LifcoHydraulics]

Incredible work

[@oscardominguez6491]

Great video, great teacher, thank you!!

[@ScottWConvid19]

Your advanced knowledge is extremely helpful for practical applications of all skill levels. Thanks!

[@Salman619]

I am from Pakistan watching your video please also give subtitles thanks Tim.

[@nolan_meyer]

the auto-generated ones are usually pretty good, what's wrong with those?

[@Bob_Adkins]

With my luck, the metal often turns out to be harder than I thought and I have to run the tap a few degrees and repeatedly back out to keep from snapping it!

[@johnpope4464]

Thank you for the knowledge very informative

[@davidwalsh7603]

cool, learnt a few things there, thanks

[@xyz-yf2kr]

Nice explanation! Maybe I can retire my sets of "easy-outs" lol.

[@tedbastwock3810]

I wish Norseman had a large tap & die set, like their 200 something piece drill bit sets.

[@orsonyancey4131]

Please tell us about that guide block that you are using with the tap and drill bit. O.K. you did later in the video.

[@darren8269]

Thank you. Very helpful. 👍

[@tedbastwock3810]

Tim, what should we look for to distinguish between dies meant just to clean/repair vs. cut new external threads? Also, I would very much appreciate watching you discuss and use dies.

[@petemclinc]

I think hex dies are for chasing and round dies are for threading...

[@tedbastwock3810]

@@petemclinc Thanks. you might be right, but I would almost think its the other way around since with hex we have more grip.

[@LOGOTechHW]

Great video 👍

[@Jiminvt1]

nice thanks that helps a lot

[@anthonyrespass3090]

I feel this in my tap handle.

[@tomneedmorebeer5525]

I generally use tap ‘n snaps. They tap a hole and plug the same hole all at once.

[@TimWelds]

I used those for years :)

[@vincebelmonte7710]

Helpful video thanku

[@JamesColeman1]

Nice work

[@bobwhite4344]

great vid and info.

[@298CRE8]

Stick it in a drill and go for it I see most do but only do this to repair a thread and have the clutch set low to cut out if much resistance helps when restoring items fresh holes if carrying load undersized the drill bit bit if just holding on covers or not requiring lots strength do holes slight larger can easily knock out hundreds of threads in minutes that way reducing work time each have advantages and disadvantages try them out for various scenarios 🫡😅 when tapping a blind hold not straight through drill extra deep to allow for tap and remove material if necessary with air line so doesn't plug the bottom bit of lube goes a long way 🎉

[@HandewerkSuiderland]

That moment when Righty Tighty becomes Righty Loosey

[@furstngomambi]

Great video Tim, Can you please help me I bought a new Mig welder and it has Voltage and Amperage knob,so my question is in that case is my Amperage my wire speed?

[@TimWelds]

Depends on the machine. Unless it's a large industrial machine, the amperage knob probably controls wire speed directly and displays the wire speed until you are welding. Either way, amperage and wire speed are related so you can treat it the same. Use that knob as the primary way to increase or decrease heat. Use the voltage knob to increase or decrease arc length and tune the short circuit transfer. I have several MIG settings videos that show how to do this. A higher voltage will give a longer average arc, resulting in a bead with a profile that is more flat or concave. Enjoy the new welder!

[@hc2cox]

Which brand is that flute tap?

[@AdayMarichal]

Is it really that important to keep the tap straight, doesn´t the hole kind of guide it straight down? Love your videos by the way, I´ve learned quite a few things!!

[@Stefan_Van_pellicom]

No, you would think it does, but it doesn’t. Once you have cut 3/4 of the first thread, the direction is set, and after that, the only way is straight forward. If you havent got it spot on, your tap WILL break if you persist.

[@wilhelmvonn9619]

​@@Stefan_Van_pellicom Absolutely. Taps have to be started on the axis of the hole. If necessary use some kind of guide, but get it right, or regret it.

[@lorenzoghinelli7018]

I’ve tried all kind of tapping paste but no one of them was like a good cutting oil.

[@Viracocha785]

How about a 2-56 tap, in 316SS using MolyD, 0.312 deep while just chasing threads and it will snap off with barely any resistance felt? How do I stop that?

[@lorenzoghinelli7018]

Stainless is definitely the worst metal to tap but if you really didn’t feel any resistance when your tap breaks I think would be better for you to change type/brand of your taps!

[@TimWelds]

I wouldn't expect that when just chasing threads as long as it isn't side loaded. I might try to get a tap with fewer flutes if one is available.

[@donwest5387]

I used to machine-tap stainless steel. We used taps from Boeing

[@bowez9]

Not a sprial point but a Gun Tap, as it shots the chips out the hole.

[@wilhelmvonn9619]

I suspect the main reason that people break taps is that the drilled holes are too small. Get the hole size right and it makes little difference what kind of tap you use.

[@bjolley8686]

Cool ❤

[@mikevandenboom5958]

I was in aluminum manufacturing for decades. Coatings on the tap or drill makes a big difference (doing multiple holes anyway) Ticn coating (gold colour) is no good for aluminum. Uncoated bright finish is the best, on both drills and taps for aluminum. There is a Tialn coating that does a good job but the availability and cost often does not justify. Black oxide finish and the gold Ticn tend to attract the aluminum and gull up the tap. Of course cutting fluid is a factor as well. WD40 or alike seems to work great for hand tapping. Most people have that around the house.

[@jimmer411]

I use lisle tap sockets and an impact. Ill never hand tap again

[@tonywright8294]

Try taping 10 ba In cast iron. Be very cerful !

[@dantech1]

Don't use 4 flute taps, ever! Tool Maker 35+ yrs

[@hedsy]

You forgot about skip tooth taps for stainless

[@TimWelds]

I don't know about those, I'll have to do some research. I always learn something new from the comments on these videos. Thanks!

[@XXZZ-b8b]

I am already know

[@tsl7881]

I've watched machinists explain taps and they didn't show as many types as you did in one video. Most of us would be using hand or maybe drill press.

[@torowazup1]

👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼😎

[@donwest5387]

then you'd use a bottoming tap

[@tigertiger1699]

Simple.. pay attention to the tap.., take some care..

[@tigertiger1699]

@@jerryrobinson7856 Advice depends on what you’re tapping into.., the application, production/ tapping method (machine: hand) etc etc My comment is based in my being told… & then observing that a common aspect in most / many taps breaking.., was the operators attn to / or lack of…, to what is actually happening with the time, and how it is cutting or not.. And that when I started paying very close attention & i came to realise it taps…, are not a guarantee of successfully achieving a thread / without breaking the tap & especially the smaller taps..& esp smaller with course threads… in tough materials…. The proportional loads are far higher on them…. Same as when drilling extremely deep hole.. you have to “be the drill tip” I remember tapping M3 into 316L.., I keep snapping them, foreman yelled at me to listen to: focus on the tap/ sounds: loads.. I complained that I only got 2 holes done.. before the tap was guttering.., he yelled. “ because the taps is done../ spent: it blunt.., time for new tap.. M3 in S/s.. we got 2 off holes per tap…, he was like.. “why do you think I brought 80 of them..”

[@thomasreilly4468]

Taper tap intermediate tap and plug tap

[@moulanaabdoolsahib4385]

CAN one use these TAPS on a DRILL instead of these manual handle?