R1200RT Front Wheel Bearing And Seal Replacement

[@SoEz2Hack]

Thanks John, you have been really helpful. Watching over your shoulder while you work and teach is both practical and a pleasure!

[@alanrichardson1672]

Hi, I bought a 2006 R1200RT with just over 30,000 miles on the clock earlier in the year. It's a great bike other than the front wheel bearings are whining, not too bad but need changing out. Your excellent video is just what I needed to confirm how to go about the job. I've ordered the replacement bearings and seals for my model year and will change them out next week. I'm an experienced engineer (not automotive) and don't expect to have any problems. Thanks again for your super video.

[@tinderboxarts]

Great timing-- glad the video is helpful!

[@roadwarrior8560]

Another option would be to put a board under the centre stand, maybe something like 1 1/2 inches? then put some weight on the rear end. Great channel.

[@Elcazador530]

Excellent video thank you very well explanatory.. great picture quality.. step by step completed.. this video makes the KZbin learning community more professional 👍

[@tinderboxarts]

Thank you, very kind words!

[@clayfarnet970]

Perfect timing, I'm getting my 2013RT ready for a trip to the Barber Vintage Fest and then on to the Oakridge Mountains. Fresh rubber is recommended.🤣👍 Be safe out there!

[@FREE_PUREBLOOD333]

Nicely done. Well talked through the whole operation step by step.

[@tinderboxarts]

Thanks!

[@tracythorn2918]

Thank you for another excellent tutorial! My 2011 RT has 73,000 miles. I just replaced the front tire, the bearings felt fine but maybe I should consider replacing them. I hope you have or had a great trip.

[@tinderboxarts]

Thanks--we're leaving Saturday and I can't wait! If you have 73K on the original bearings I would consider changing them out just on principle. The cost is not high if you are buying aftermarket.

[@InterimExec]

Thank you so much for the reply on symptoms.....So useful.

[@arib6160]

The bearings will always feel tight when there is no axle clamping pressure. This is by design. When the axle is torqued to spec this will compress the centre spacer tube to give the proper running clearance. Otherwise, when the axle is tightened this would result in the bearing being compressed with too much side pressure on the balls resulting in failure. Proper axle torque is important here.

[@ICanFixThat1000]

On the GS/GSA only the left bearing is seated in the wheel. The right side bearing is then pulled into the wheel, use a special tool, until it touches the spacer. I would have thought your RT to be the same?

[@tinderboxarts]

I'm actually not sure what you mean. As far as I know the GS wheel hubs are essentially the same as the RT, and this setup is common among most motorcycle brands. The procedure shown in the video works on many different bikes. There are various tools you can buy to remove bearings, as I discussed. For installation of a bearing you can use almost anything which contacts the outside race and is the right size, including sockets or purpose-made drivers.

[@ICanFixThat1000]

When you fit the bearing to the wheel. Only the left bearing is tapped full home into the hub. The spacer tube is a little longer than the distance between the bearing seats in the hub. The right side bearing is pulled into position till it is tight against the spacer. If you were to tap it fully in, as you do with the left bearing, you would end up moving the left bearing off its seat. Here is a picture of the procedure [img]i.ibb.co/xHjDWcP/Screenshot-20240201-201526-Chrome.jpg[/img]

[@tinderboxarts]

Okay, I see what you are getting at, but that's just an alternate way of doing the same thing. Instead of using a hammer and a socket or driver to drive the outer race into the cavity that BMW method just uses a special tool to pull the outer race into the cavity. Either way, when the second bearing inner race just kisses the spacer the bearing outer race should also be hitting home in the cavity. In other words, the spacer is designed to be the exact width between the two inner races when the outer races are also seated. So you certainly don't need a special tool to do this on your GS or the RT. The only advantage I can imagine with this puller method is that you don't have to worry about bending a brake rotor on the ground if your blocks slide out while you are hammering.

[@aBluegrassPicker]

Excellent video thank you for making this

[@MarkoMarcello]

Remarkably well done, thanks.

[@InterimExec]

Wow that's a complex one for me!!! Your videos have inspired me but some job still seem outside my comfort border. What are the symptoms of bearing failure and a sign it is time to head to your shop? I recently watch a clutch replacement on a 1200 on another chanel.That repair would also send me to a specialist shop like yours. I sold an 05 1200 GS (110,000KM) which needed a new clutch. I did not know it did. As i am contemplating buying a used 1200 RT ...how do i "TEST" for clutch health.??

[@tinderboxarts]

Some common symptoms of a wheel bearing needing replacement include an excessive whining noise from the bearing area, a squirrely feeling to the steering or the back end, a wheel that doesn't keep spinning when off the ground and rotated by hand, or a wheel that has run-out (wobble) when rotated. Typically it's the noise which first appears. As far as clutches, the dry clutches (up until 2014 models) are the ones which require significant work to replace. One thing to look for with these dry clutches is the clutch fluid reservoir level. The level rises with clutch wear, and fluid needs to be removed from time to time or else the clutch can begin to slip due to hydraulic lock. See this short video: kzbin.infoirEm6agBmQ0

[@ArcanePath360]

These bearings are WAAAAY more expensive than I thought. C36.31.8.534.835 cost about £28 for 1, WITHOUT delivery. BMW charge £21. Plus £14 for the seals.... x2 it adds up to £70 without labour. 😮😮

[@philc7135]

What grease are you using please before you put the seals back on?

[@tinderboxarts]

Remember, the bearings come sealed and pre-greased, so what you are adding is really there just to prevent corrosion and keep water out. As such, almost any wheel bearing/chassis grease will do. However, my current favorite is the Bel-Ray waterproof grease, which is green and comes in a plastic tub. I use it for motorcycles and bicycles in many areas.

[@BrandonSalas-qm5vu]

Heat gun and infared thermometer

[@tinderboxarts]

You can use a heat gun instead of a torch, sure. It's just a little slower to heat up and you don't look as cool without a flame.

[@firemanek1]

nie powinno się uderzać młotkiem w łożysko, mogłeś dać śrubę na wylot przez oś i dociągać go nakrętką,

[@tinderboxarts]

Może to zostać utracone w tłumaczeniu, ale walczę o wyścig ZEWNĘTRZNY, a nie wewnętrzny. Jest to powszechna praktyka w przypadku tego typu instalacji w motocyklach, samochodach osobowych, ciężarówkach i maszynach. Trzymałem także łożysko w zamrażarce przez pewien czas, aby zmniejszyć jego rozmiar.