Tips and Tricks on setting up the E-flite 1.3m Cherokee

Tips and tricks to help you get your new E-flite 1.3m Cherokee ready to go. The video is aimed at intermediate pilots who are already familiar with programming the radio, centering the control surfaces, and checking the CG.
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Introduction
The iconic PA-28 Cherokee began rolling off the assembly line in Vero Beach, Florida in the early 1960s. Since then, thanks to its simple design and smooth handling, more than 32,000 Cherokees and variants have been produced for flight training, personal use, and beyond. The original E-flite Cherokee 1.3m was a popular tribute to this aviation classic that offered incredible handling every RC pilot could appreciate while featuring a variety of functional scale features including navigation and landing lights, a full-flying stabilator, flaps, and more. Now this updated and upgraded version includes a Spektrum Avian 70A Smart Lite ESC as part of the optimized power system along with other improvements to make it Smarter and more fun to fly than ever before!
Features
An updated and upgraded, Smarter and more modern scale replica of the civil aviation classic
Incredibly smooth flight performance and handling make it the perfect choice for a first low-wing or scale model
Optimized power system featuring a more efficient, smaller diameter prop for improved ground clearance and performance
Compatible with popular 3S and 4S 2200-4000mAh batteries that deliver excellent performance and flight times
70-amp Spektrum Avian™ Smart Lite ESC provides real-time battery voltage, motor RPM, and other data via compatible receivers and transmitters
Compatible with the Spektrum DXS transmitter included with many of the most popular E-flite and HobbyZone trainer airplane models
Spektrum™ AR631 receiver with fly-by range telemetry and industry-leading DSMX® technology
Easier to take off, fly and land with optional-use SAFE® Select flight envelope protection
The unmatched stability and locked-in feel of exclusive AS3X® technology
Abundant scale detail including molded-in panel lines, rivets, corrugated control surfaces, and more
Factory-installed LED navigation lights, strobes, beacon, and landing lights for added scale realism and visibility
Extremely large top hatch featuring a pilot figure and plastic instrument panel cover for easy access to the battery mounting area and electronics
Shock-absorbing nose strut featuring an improved design for easier maintenance and oversized wheels for operation from a variety of surfaces
Full-flying horizontal stabilizer/elevator (stabilator) with an updated mounting system for improved precision and control
Lightweight and durable composite-reinforced EPO construction
Fast and easy bolt-together assembly - no glue required
Overview
This updated and upgraded E-flite Cherokee 1.3m celebrates the classic design of the legendary full-scale PA-28 with an accurate outline, a long list of scale details, modern-day convenience features and technologies, plus fantastic power and flight performance that makes flying exciting and fun. An abundance of scale details including molded-in panel lines, rivets, corrugated control surfaces, factory-installed LED lights, and more highlight the authentic appearance. The shock-absorbing nose strut features an improved steering arm and mounting design for easier maintenance, while the oversized wheels make it possible to fly from a variety of paved, dirt, and even some grass surfaces. Plug-in wing panels are equipped with convenient hands-free servo connections and include operational slotted flaps for shorter takeoffs and landings plus improved slow-flight handling. An extremely large top hatch featuring a pilot figure - and now including a plastic instrument panel cover to eliminate “gatoring” - offers easy access to the electronics and the battery mounting area with plenty of space to fit a 3S or 4S 2200-4000mAh battery, while the high-power brushless motor and 70-amp Smart Lite ESC deliver better-than-scale power. The power system has also been optimized with a smaller diameter propeller that offers better ground clearance plus improved efficiency and performance. Best of all, no glue is required for assembly of the lightweight, composite-reinforced EPO airframe so you can be flying in less time than it takes to charge a battery! It all adds up to deliver a scale marvel that offers incredible handling and fantastic flight performance for shooting smooth touch and goes, rock-solid low and high-speed cruising, and even for performing aggressive aerobatics in a model that’s perfect for intermediate to experienced pilots.

[@comedianfiftysix3775]

I love the little detail tips; that's gonna help me when I get mine.

[@BRGT350]

I will probably do a follow-up video covering some additional detail tips as I have since taken the Cherokee apart, designed some scale parts, and working on putting it back together.

[@RandySchroder-oe9mt]

Great video. The idea of lubricating the front strut is a good idea. I especially like the idea of using servo savers. Had never heard of those before. If you are ever at a point where you're not sure what video to make next, I would love to see one on the removal and re-install of the nose gear. The manual is sparse and vague about it. Thanks again for the tips!

[@BRGT350]

Thanks! I will keep that video idea in mind, but hopefully I never need to actually do it. From what I can tell, you access the screw holding the front strut assembly together in the nose by taking off the canopy and reaching the screw from there, not from the front by taking off the cowl. Once the screw is removed, the steering tiller and strut tube are free to be separated. The strut will now be able to be pulled out from the bottom of the plane. Thankfully, I haven't ever needed to replace the nose gear on any of my 3 Cherokees. I have spare parts for my 2 originals just in case, but after years of flying, they are still good. The key is always to land on the main gear and let the nose settle. Avoid rough terrain as much as possible and pick up the plane after flying and carry it out to the runway before take off. I have seen so many guys damage their planes when taxiing to and from the runway. A chipmunk hole is all it takes to make a bad day. Inspect the runway as well. Be sure not to line the plane up on a path that will cause it to hit something that can cause damage.

[@craigeberstein-hv8xl]

Great info I always enjoy your videos

[@BRGT350]

Thank you so much!

[@keving6512]

Very informative thanks. Im looking at the Cherokee and the Cirrus. Cirrus appears to be discontinued although there is stock around but the Cherokee and its upgrades impressed me the most. The lights look amazing as I do most of my flying at dust. The last landing is challenging.

[@BRGT350]

Thank you! The Cirrus and Cherokee are both still active products. The blue Cirrus was discontinued a few years ago, but the new red one is available. The lights on the Cherokee and Cirrus are really great for dusk flying. I also do most of my flying in the evenings. I start with warbirds and move to the civilian planes with lights as the sun sets. I have flown the Cirrus and Cherokee (my original red one) a few times when I was thinking it was too dark to fly, but the lights worked great and I was able to land ok.

[@keving6512]

Since you have flown both the Cirrus and both Cherokees, what are the key differences between the two planes in your views? Maybe this could be your next video as I have found many with this same question.

[@BRGT350]

It is hard to do a fair comparison between the two, at least for me. I fly the Cirrus only on 4S and the plane is very sport and powerful. I do mild aerobatics with it, but nothing crazy. Lazy rolls, big loops, and some tight banks. The Cherokee is only flown on 3S and I fly it very much like what you expect from a full scale Cherokee. No aerobatics, very wide turns, and gentle climbs. Landing is where I notice the biggest difference. The Cirrus is a bit easier to land consistent every time. The longer high aspect ratio wing is easier to manage in ground effect and the plane makes me look good when landing. The Cherokee, with flaps fully down, can get into ground effect about a foot off the ground and it wants to stay there until the air speed bleeds off to a stall. I have to work a little harder to get the plane to the ground. If the flaps are up, this is less of an issue. The real Cherokee, and really all the PA-28 series aircraft, do this on landing. I have the original Cherokee 180C brochure from 1966 and they market the phenomena as a selling feature. Basically the plane is sitting on a trapped cushion of air when it is about a foot off the ground and that cushion keeps the plane up. A little nose down attitude will break that and then you can flare so the mains touch first. I don't notice that nearly as much on the Cirrus. Done right, the Cherokee lands very smooth and smoother than the Cirrus. Both planes look incredible in the air and both have really bright lights to help at dusk or on overcast days. I do think that with both planes on 4S and the rates set similar, the planes would behave much more similar to each other. I have mine setup very differently for very different types of flying, so making a good 1 to 1 comparison is hard. You can't go wrong either plane and best to have both :)

[@keving6512]

Thank you for taking the time to compare these two models. Im sure others are grateful as well. Kevin

[@BRGT350]

I will see about doing a video once flying season starts where I can do a better job comparing the planes better.

[@richhollenbeck5619]

I was just looking through your videos and noticed you were at EAA. I go every year, it is like Christmas for me. Are you going this year?

[@BRGT350]

I am hoping to! I started going in 2022 and love the event. I might be going to Sun-n-Fun in April with my dad who lives in Florida. As of now, I plan to be at EAA Oshkosh this summer.

[@richhollenbeck5619]

I love all of your Cherokee content. I have always been a fan of this aircraft and last fall I finally bought the red Cherokee. You mentioned that Callie graphics has nomenclature for the Cherokee but I have not been able to find it on their website or even by google search. Could you point me in the right direction please?

[@BRGT350]

Thank you! Just email Callie for what you are looking for on the Cherokee. She has a lot of stuff that isn't on the website. She is working on some stuff for mine as I want to make a few minor tweaks. She has a nomenclature set that includes all of the exterior decals such as "no step", "flap step unsafe", "no push", and the prop logos. It is has a bunch more on that decal sheet. She can also do custom work.

[@richhollenbeck5619]

Thanks for the information, I appreciate it. Hey I also wanted to mention in your video you talked about not removing the plugs from the air intake by the motor, I was watching an Eflite video for the new Cherokee and noticed that they had removed theirs.

[@BRGT350]

I will have to look again in the video. I know the one in the video was an early sample and not one of the final versions for production. Same with the studio shots as the wing walk decal is different. The plugs are black and set back in the cowl, so they aren't easy to see. The Cirrus has them as well, but they are white and are really easy to see. I might paint my Cirrus ones black after seeing how the Cherokee looks.

[@richhollenbeck5619]

The only reason I noticed was you can see the wires for the motor

[@BRGT350]

The plugs in the intake sit behind some of the wires so you can see them when looking at the nose. I will probably paint them black along with the edges of the motor mount.

[@ianwilson5015]

Please could you advise on battery position and CoG? My old red and white model needed the battery tray extended aft to suit the recommended CoG position.

[@BRGT350]

Each plane is slightly different for battery location and that also varies by the type and brand of the battery. My Cherokees have either a lot of paint or clear or both over them, so my battery placement is not going to be like a new one out of the box. I fly with the following batteries: Spektrum Smart 2200 3S 30C, Spektrum Smart 4000 3S 30C, and Turnigy 3300 3S 30C which weighs the same as the Spektrum Smart 4000 3S 30C. I don't use 4S on my Cherokees. Because of the weight of paint and clearcoat, I have had to add weight in the nose to get mine to balance. Don't be alarmed if you need to have a battery further rear on the battery tray in order to get the plane to balance. When balancing the plane, make sure you have the canopy installed or at least placed on the bottom of the fuselage in the same location that it would be if installed. I balance my Cherokees to the rear of the range suggested in the manual as I find it easier to flare with a little bit rear bias.

[@Quad66]

Which metal gear servos did you use for the rudder/nose gear when you swapped on previous planes?

[@BRGT350]

I use the SPMSA332R for reversed servos and SPMSA332 for standard rotation. They drop right in and work great. I think the 70mm Viper and a few other planes use them from the factory. If operating from grass only, use the upgraded servo and Dubro Servo-Saver as well. That will protect the servo gears from shock loading if the nose gear hits any rough patches in the grass. For fabric or pavement, stock or the metal gear servo is fine. You won't need the servo-saver.

[@Quad66]

@@BRGT350 thanks!

[@looneytunes47]

Ya Know were far along enough into the production of these advanced Rc model planes for them to START USING METAL GEAR SERVO,S for the nose wheel and rudders cause as we ALL KNOW? Those are the 1st to strip out.

[@BRGT350]

Once I moved away from a grass field and to fabric, I stopped having any issues with the nose gear or servos. It was usually something on the runway that would cause the damage, like a chipmunk hole or something else that would trigger a shock load into the servo. Landing on fabric made all those concerns go away. I have only flown a few times from pavement, so I don't have enough experience with pavement to comment on it. The variation clubs have for grass runways makes it very hard to have consistent results. One club I visited had a putting green for a runway. Some clubs I have seen look like a B-52 just carpet bombed the field earlier in the day.

[@thelongestday64]

When I unboxed our Cherokee two days ago, there was a bad smell never before experienced coming from the plane... some kind of glue? We put it on our balcony to air it out. Very strange, never had that with any E-flite plane... it is getting better, but not completely gone...???

[@BRGT350]

That is odd and something I had not heard of before.

[@looneytunes47]

Where,s the link for the dubro servo saver device?

[@BRGT350]

www.horizonhobby.com/product/control-over-ride-servo-saver/DUB120.html

[@ChrisDaish-xw8xy]

Hi, When I set up the flaps as per the instruction manuel ie Flap position 0 -100% elev 0% Position 1 flap 0% Elev -3 Position 2 flap +100% elev -5 the elev worked the wrong way to prevent balooning. I had to set the Elev to +3 and +5 to work the correct way round? why would that be? Thanks

[@BRGT350]

I have a number of planes that have the elevator to flap mix backwards. I think it is the way the switch is assigned for the flaps. I don't have an exact reason why, but I would say the majority of my planes have the elevator backwards from the manual. A few tips on the flaps, one is to change the speed to 4 seconds vs 2 seconds in the manual. Also reduce the take-off and landing flap amounts. I usually take the landing flap amount in the manual and take 70% of that value and then halve that for the take-off flaps. I find the manual calls for too much flaps and on the Cherokee, too much flap makes it hard to land smoothly as the plane will stay in ground effect for a long period of time until the airspeed drops close to stall speed. Less flaps and a higher landing speed helps.

[@ChrisDaish-xw8xy]

Thank you for that info. So where the manual says set flaps to position 2 -100% you set yours to 70% landing flaps and 35% for take off, is that what you mean?

[@BRGT350]

yep! you got it. I would start there and adjust as needed. With the Cherokee, too much flaps amplifies the ground effect that acts like a cushion to keep the plane airborne near the ground. You end up floating down the runway stuck on this air pocket until the wings no longer produce lift and the plane stalls into the runway. I am guessing this is why so many pilots damage the nose gear. Instead of a nice flare, they go nose in. The phenomenon of the ground effect was actually a selling feature touted in the full scale Cherokee sales brochure as it leads to smoother landings. It does this better with the full scale version than RC, but the ground effect works exactly the same.

[@ChrisDaish-xw8xy]

Thank you for the advice. Am fairly new ((6 months) to the hobby and have just flown the Cherokee the once, and yes it did float across the field and into a bush on landing, couldn't stop the darn thing.. also it was on this first flight that I discovered the elevator was going the wrong way when mixed with flaps. Interesting scenario, no damage though fortunately this time.

[@BRGT350]

That was a good learning experience out of what could have been far worse. Glad you figured out the elevator to flap issue. The Cherokee is a really great plane, just need to get used to the landing feel as it is very different than a lot of planes. The 1.5m Cirrus with the long high aspect ratio wing is far easier to land.