I can try to get that done. They are so very different that a comparison video may not have much value. The UMX P-51 flies very much like a larger P-51 and have a hundreds of flights on that airframe. I only have about 5-6 flights on the Micro P-51. The UMX P-51 fits my flying style, but that is also from years of flying and years of flying UMX Mustangs. I had the original 1S UMX P-51 and the first 2S UMX P-51, which is the same airframe as the new 2S/3S P-51 that is in the video. I also fly the UMX P-51 on my NX8 that has a lot of tuning to get the Mustang dialed in to exactly how I want it. The Micro P-51 transmitter doesn't have the ability to fine tune the controls like my NX8.

@@BRGT350 To do a proper "Apples to Apples" comparison just buy a cheap 4-in-1 Multi Protocol Radio and run both on that. You can get the bottom-of-the-pile Jumper T-lite V2 for the same price (or less!) than the TopRC re-brand. The T-lite will come up short as regards switches against your flash (and not cheap!) Spekky Radio but will match it in programmability (once you learn how) in addition to being able to fly/drive/sail almost any make of toy.

Again, a well made video. And even remains quite comprehensible when run at 2x speed! 😉😊

Ha, thanks!

to do so is beyond the point of the 2 planes. They aren't intended to be compared or be similar. One is for beginners with little to no flight experience or frame of reference. The other is designed for intermediate pilots with a great deal of experience. One is designed to be a trainer, the other is far from being a trainer. You shouldn't learn on a UMX model. There is no point in doing an apples to apples flight comparison as they are intended for different pilots and different skill levels. That was the point of the video. If you are asking more complex questions that you have learned to ask from experience, then the UMX is for you. If you have never flown a plane before, then the micro is for you.

It isn't the Volantex Sport Cub 500. They look similar, but they aren't the same airframes. The XCub 450 AS3X and SAFE tuning was done by the Horizon air development team.

@@BRGT350 The brush motor sounds the same if I’m not wrong. The sport cub 500 has a more flexible gear than the XCUB.

similar size brushed motor and gears, which sounds a lot like my other 1S brushed planes. They all sound about the same.

A lot of these micro trainers are similar. The Micro P-51 is a lot like the original Parkzone UM P-51 with the 2-blade prop, wire landing gear without doors, black canopy, and single aileron servo. I do know that the Micro P-51, along with the XCub, aren't related to the Volantex planes.

Thank you! Hopefully it will help people understand the differences from what looks like the same product. The durability of the XCub is really impressive and it is by far the most durable plane I have ever flown. The flight characteristics of the Sport Cub S2 align better with how I expect a Cub to fly, but the plane is more fragile. I think the Apprentice STOL might be the best compromise as it is more durable than the Sport Cub S2, but flies more like a larger model than the XCub, but also is pricier. The awesome thing is that a beginner has options now on how to get started on the hobby in terms of price point, subject matter, and size. When I started, there were very few options.

yeah, they sold out super quickly! I think the P-51 is still in stock and I know hobby shops have them. I saw some at a shop a week or so ago.

I used to when I would drive my Fiesta in the winter, but now I store it in the winter.

Sounds like something went wrong in the startup procedure. Start with the transmitter off and battery unplugged. Turn on the transmitter first, then plug in the battery, place the plane on level ground for a few seconds. The ailerons, elevator, and rudder will all move back and forth as part of the start up. If you plug in the battery before turning on the transmitter, the plane may have lost bind and you need to follow the binding instructions. Typically, unplugging everything and following the start up process as listed above will fix it. Never plug in the battery without the transmitter being turned on first. To turn off, unplug the battery first and then turn off the transmitter. The transmitter is always first on and last off.

@@BRGT350 thanks for your reply! I’ll try this and report back with the results

sounds good! Hopefully that is it. The way it was acting is how a plane acts when it isn't bound to a transmitter or the transmitter is turned off. If it needs to be reconnected to the transmitter, it is easy to do. Insert the bind plug into the receiver, plug in the battery, turn on the transmitter while holding down the bind/panic button, and the plane should go through a movement of all the control surfaces to indicate it has been bound to the transmitter. Remove the bind plug, unplug the battery, turn off the transmitter, and then go through a normal start-up to make sure everything works. I can't recall if the Carbon Cub is one of the planes that must be sitting on the landing gear for a few seconds during power-up to calibrate the gyro. Some of my planes do that and others don't, so I can't recall all the ones that need that step.

Awesome! I was out flying the Mustang last night. I really like it. Just make sure the prop is pushed on tight. I found out the hard way that mine wasn't pushed on all the way after showing somebody how the prop saver worked. Thankfully there is a spare in the box! Also, if the elevator is pointing downwards out of the box, leave it that way. I adjusted mine and then after trimming the plane in flight, the elevator was back to the position it was when I did the video, so leave it in that spot.

@@BRGT350 thank you. Will do.

They are too big for the Swift Boat. I have one of the original figures in my GI Joe Tomcat and just put it on the Swift Boat to check and he is too tall. The boat scales to 1/24-ish so an average 6' person would be 3" to fit the boat. The GI Joe figure is about 4"-5" tall. I looked around the internet last summer for a crew to put on the Swift Boat and no luck. For some reason, nobody seems to make 1/24 or 1/25 military figures. I was hoping to find one for the top turret and a pair for the rear gun.

There isn't a good way to tell that. You do what we all used to do before computerized radios and telemetry, set a timer on your phone and land when it expires. Set the timer for 5-7 minutes, 5 if you are planning to fly aggressive, 7 if you are going to fly throttled back.

@BRGT350 ok thanks, just making sure, that's what I used to do with my nitro plane, just purchased the xcub and trying to get back into flying. Thank you again

you are welcome and congrats on the XCub! I will be doing some follow-up videos on some tips and tricks. To help you get started, here are a few things I have learned already. Intermediate mode is probably the best as it allows for more bank angle than beginner, so you can keep the plane closer to you. Beginner needs a large area as the turns are large. I would avoid experienced mode. I didn't care for that mode at all, but really enjoyed intermediate mode. Paint the prop tips white or yellow in case the prop pops off in the grass, you can find it easier. I found hand launching in beginner mode and then switching to intermediate mode to be the best. I would skip taking off on the ground and hand launch it over grass. Removing the landing gear helps as it is less drag and the plane will flip over in the grass, so just remove them or avoid installing them. Hope that helps!

It was a bunch of pilots having way too much fun with a plane that doesn't look like it could ever be that much fun! I was sad I left mine at home and couldn't join them.

@@BRGT350 I tell you what, the Aero Scout I got is unbelievably rugged and flies like a champ. I've crashed it at least ten times and I got nose art on the front of Wylie Coyote on a ACME rocket; which is most appropriate because it always comes back for more.

I wasn't the biggest AeroScout fan as I thought it looked odd and I pretty much only fly scale planes. I picked one up to use at club events, teach my nephews, and have around for buddy-box flights. As I was flying to get used to it, I realized that I love the AeroScout! I fly it far more than I ever thought I would. I use it in the spring to get warmed up before moving to my scale planes, teach friends and family how to fly, have it available for people to try out at the club, and used it for touch-and-go practice to work on my skills. It is a far better plane than I ever thought and also way more fun. Watching 20 of the best pilots in the world fly them all together was a blast! They were all laughing and having a great time.

I have no idea how those guys figured out which was the one they were flying! Only 2 of them crashed and it was landing when one ran into the back of another.

I use the SPMSA332R for reversed servos and SPMSA332 for standard rotation. They drop right in and work great. I think the 70mm Viper and a few other planes use them from the factory. If operating from grass only, use the upgraded servo and Dubro Servo-Saver as well. That will protect the servo gears from shock loading if the nose gear hits any rough patches in the grass. For fabric or pavement, stock or the metal gear servo is fine. You won't need the servo-saver.

@@BRGT350 thanks!

The gyro calibrates when the battery is plugged in. There isn't a special step to calibrate the gyro in these. The calibration comes from the factory programming, but the initialization happens when the battery is plugged in and the plane is set back on the landing gear. It doesn't need to be level for it to work. A few trainers do need the model to be perfectly level, others don't need it. I have a few that until the plane is sitting right side up and on the wheels, the stabilization system won't initialize.

@@BRGT350 The Volantex Minis are 1 of the few cheapies that allow a forced re-calibration of what the gyros see as "level" - most of the rest are fixed at the factory as stated. If your frame gets a bit bent or twisted on this you may have to physically jack up 1 side/corner of the flight board. Mostly these toys work fine for beginners. Getting the u-bend trims sorted out for perfect mechanical trim when you want to progress to "Expert" on these Dinky Toys is what sorts out the Boys from us Doddering Old Farts! 😉😊

@@theoztreecrasher2647 I've got one of the Mini P51 that slowly but steadily climbs because the Gyro system is in a CHEAP made Fuselage.

I have a number of planes that have the elevator to flap mix backwards. I think it is the way the switch is assigned for the flaps. I don't have an exact reason why, but I would say the majority of my planes have the elevator backwards from the manual. A few tips on the flaps, one is to change the speed to 4 seconds vs 2 seconds in the manual. Also reduce the take-off and landing flap amounts. I usually take the landing flap amount in the manual and take 70% of that value and then halve that for the take-off flaps. I find the manual calls for too much flaps and on the Cherokee, too much flap makes it hard to land smoothly as the plane will stay in ground effect for a long period of time until the airspeed drops close to stall speed. Less flaps and a higher landing speed helps.

Thank you for that info. So where the manual says set flaps to position 2 -100% you set yours to 70% landing flaps and 35% for take off, is that what you mean?

yep! you got it. I would start there and adjust as needed. With the Cherokee, too much flaps amplifies the ground effect that acts like a cushion to keep the plane airborne near the ground. You end up floating down the runway stuck on this air pocket until the wings no longer produce lift and the plane stalls into the runway. I am guessing this is why so many pilots damage the nose gear. Instead of a nice flare, they go nose in. The phenomenon of the ground effect was actually a selling feature touted in the full scale Cherokee sales brochure as it leads to smoother landings. It does this better with the full scale version than RC, but the ground effect works exactly the same.

Thank you for the advice. Am fairly new ((6 months) to the hobby and have just flown the Cherokee the once, and yes it did float across the field and into a bush on landing, couldn't stop the darn thing.. also it was on this first flight that I discovered the elevator was going the wrong way when mixed with flaps. Interesting scenario, no damage though fortunately this time.

That was a good learning experience out of what could have been far worse. Glad you figured out the elevator to flap issue. The Cherokee is a really great plane, just need to get used to the landing feel as it is very different than a lot of planes. The 1.5m Cirrus with the long high aspect ratio wing is far easier to land.

Thanks! Now just need the weather to settle down so I can go fly it.

that is correct. It is sub-250g, so no remote ID is needed. Thanks for the kind words on the video. After I get some flights on the Cub and Mustang, I will report back on some tips to help out beyond the regular setup.

It is a proprietary transmitter for the micro trainers and won't connect with Spektrum. Not sure if it would with others, but I know it won't work with my NX8 or DX6. The planes are meant for people who are new to the hobby, who don't have a programmable radio or any of the infrastructure needed to support a BNF or PNP plane. If you have a transmitter and charger already, then you are probably already further along than a beginner, and then you should be looking at the UMX models vs the micro trainers. They are 100% designed for a beginner.

@@BRGT350 Great. Thanks. I've got the UMX TTE and UMX AT so I'm good there. Also the Cherokee 1.3 among others. I still like to fly the Volantex 400mm warbirds I have but not as much and the Cherokee, UMXs, or FMS Ranger 1220. I'll be in Michigan (Grand Rapids and north) late in June and hope to find a place to fly.

It is important to note that the micro trainers aren't UMX planes and sell to different customers. I have a lot of UMX planes and I love flying them in the back yard or even at the flying field. They are more detailed than the micro trainers and have more features. A very different class of model. I will be doing a comparison between the micro trainers and UMX models when I get back from a work trip. If you make it over to Grand Haven, you can fly as a guest at the local club. They fly in the evenings during the week and since it is at an airport, you have to fly with club members as spotters.

They aren't a 100% re-branded TopRC model. There are similarities in terms of the products, but the code for the SAFE system was all done by Horizon along with a number of other minor tweaks. It is correct about the foam and I can say for sure after flying that these things are far more durable than any UMX plane I have flown before. It is crazy how durable they are. I would totally hand one of these over to a new pilot where I wouldn't a UMX. The prop saver is also great.

@@BRGT350 Yep, I needed to edit that comment after seeing the remnant Rate Stabilization on the "Expert Mode". 👍👍 "These are just re-branded TopRC Minis. Protocol for your multi Module Radio is V761/TopRC - to use your Spekky Txs plug a satellite receiver into the DSM socket on the board. They are both tough and flexible EPP not beer-cooler EPS like most UMX planes. You've got a much better chance of having these survive the rough and tumble of a beginner's crashes. I guess that the Volantex V761 Minis have been making such a dent into sales at Horizon etc that they have felt the need to stock these. A bit like when they re-branded the E-sky EYAS (Eagles) as the Aeroscout. Sadly these are not quite as good as the Volantex Minis but they'll do." I'm also not certain that the tail wheel attachment is exactly the same as the TopRC unit. I'll have to check some other videos. That looks quite like the XK mounting. I'll check out your further videos of these toys. You might confirm whether there are still active DSM and S-bus satellite sockets on the board or has that flexibility been removed?

waiting for the weather to improve and then going to do exactly that. Fly and report back. I am excited to get them both in the air and see how they do.

@@BRGT350 Well I've seen vids now and It's a pass for me. The Little p51 is just another of a million..

Thank you!!

Thank you!!

@@BRGT350 how did you get inside the cockpit without destroying it?

yeah, I am 90% sure it is fine since I basically split the difference between V1 and V2 props. I would double check it to be 100% sure and wanted to make people aware that changing props should come with verification that the power system is ok to use it. I will do the maiden with the stock V2 prop since I know it works and I want to see how much difference the plane performs compared to my originals. Plus, the moles have completely destroyed the runway at our club and I need all the ground clearance I can get! My T-28 prop hit the runway last week while accelerating for a take-off. Thankfully the prop and runway were both ok, but it sure gave me a surprise! The airport has offered to bring the roller that they use on the grass runway to roll our grass and fabric runways. We will surely take them up on that offer. All of my taildragger warbirds are grounded until we get it fixed as the ridges are high enough that I am sure the props will hit when the plane is level.

Thank you!

Flight videos represent a number of challenges. The first is finding a good camera person who can do the video. So many times I have somebody record a 5 minute flight and only about a minute of the flight is usable footage. The other 4 minutes are the sky or the plane is out of focus. I had tried to edit the flying footage with clips of me flying the plane to try and get a complete video, but wow, people get super angry with their comments if they see a shot of me flying. Next up is my club flying field, which is at an airport. The issues there are the fact that a lot of our flights are interrupted by full scale aircraft or skydivers, so getting a full flight without interruption is impossible. Also, filming RC planes flying at an airport fires up the angry comments. I have had so many people threaten to have me arrested or the club shut down as a result. Lastly, there is my flying style and skillset. I don't fly 3D, aerobatic, hover, inverted, fly between trees, fly in congested neighborhoods, or fly in a manner that is at all entertaining. My flights are as exciting as watching a student pilot do touch-and-goes. The comments online attacking my flying abilities also kills the joy of the hobby and hurts any confidence I have in flying, which is already pretty low. I may get one supportive comment for ever 100 that is an attack on how bad I am at everything I do. The mental health toll isn't worth it. I do think I will work on a few flying videos, but they will be scarce due to the reasons above. I wish I could find a good video person, I wish I had a flying area that wasn't so subjective to people getting mad, and I wish people would actually be decent humans when commenting online. Those are big wishes that will most likely never come true.

@@BRGT350 Ah man there are trolls all over the internet you just have to learn to ignore those twats do what you do best and the hell with what other people want you to do! You cant let outside forces run your life brother The world is full of Karens and you need to give them the middle finger and be free to do your thing.

Thanks, yeah, I am working on doing better at ignoring the trolls. No doubt they really wore me down over the years. Perhaps the best middle finger is to just keep doing what I love doing and not let them win.

@@BRGT350 Sooo true

Thank you! Let me know if you have any questions along the way on your Cherokee. Always happy to help out.

Thank you Steve! Yeah, I needed a picture of a PA-28 cockpit with traditional gauges vs glass and I realized I had one from when we went flying in the Warrior. The picture of the old cockpit is from N9058J, the Cherokee 180C that my grandfather owned with Earl's dad.

just out of interest, what scale is this plane, ?

Yes, most of the planes include an extra fastener in case you need a spare.

if you are new to the hobby, the UMX Turbo Timber Evolution shouldn't be your starting point. It isn't a trainer. RC planes, much like their full scale counterparts, are designed to be as lightweight as possible in order to fly. This means selecting materials and fastening methods that provide the required strength with the least amount of weight. It sounds like you are not well versed in aviation nor with UMX planes. The UMX Timber is designed for intermediate pilots that can handle flying the plane without resulting in a high number of crashes. Totaling up my UMX flights, I have well over one thousand flights on these types of aircraft and have not had a single failure or damage. They are very well built and engineered. As for the tape, that is actually a fantastic method to hold sections of the fuselage together. The tape adhered to the sides of the fuselage are in tension, in which the tape is strong. Internal ribbing and cross section provide good torsional and compression strength. If the fuselage needs to be take apart for repairs, slitting the tape gains access easily vs glue. To reassemble, just use tape. I can also tell you don't have a lot of experience around full scale aircraft as if you did, you would be shocked at how fragile they are. Good structural engineering makes them just as strong as they need to be in order to achieve their primary function, just like an RC plane. In fact, RC planes are far more robust than they need to be. The additional robustness comes to aid in case of a mishap so the plane can be flown again instead of writing it off. Good luck doing that on a 737.

You can get pretty close using the fuel filler caps. I would suggest just forward of the caps and then flying the plane to make your adjustments from there. I think just in front of the caps is about where the rear most of the manual's suggested CG range is. A slightly rear biased CG with a reduced stabilator rate is my preference on the Cherokee. That makes it easier to flare on landing, which prevents nose gear damage. I have to double check, but I think my assigned elevator rate is around 60-65% with 30-40% expo. That really softens up the stab to keep it from being too sensitive, which works well when having a slightly rear biased CG as that can make the plane more sensitive in pitch.

It is actually pretty easy. The plug-in type of wing connectors are actually standard servo plugs that are held in place with a plastic retainer. There is a screw that holds the plug to the retainer and screws hold the retainer to the foam wing. To replace the servo, you remove the retainer from the wing with 2 screws, remove the screw retaining the servo plug, pull the plastic cover off the servo, remove the servo retainer screws, and then remove the servo. I would tie a string to the old servo plug before you remove it from the wing so you can then tie that string to the new servo wire and pull it through the wing. I replaced the servos on my original Cherokee with metal gear ones and the process was pretty easy.

@@BRGT350 Thank you for that info, a great help. So when you order the servo are there different length leads for the aileron and flap servos as they seem to have the same part numbers?

The factory installed servos have different length wires, but replacements don't. So you will need an extension for the aileron servos, but the flap servos are close enough to the wing root where you don't need an extension.

That's great, thank you for your reply and help, appreciate it .

no problem, happy to help out.

Thanks and enjoy the Cub! It is a fantastic trainer and one that will set you up well for higher powered taildraggers such as the Timber and warbirds.

Thank you! I am just wrapping some scale details on my blue Cherokee and will hopefully film the video this weekend. Just glued the last parts together this morning. As for the nose gear, yes, you can swap over the parts from the blue one to the red one. I wouldn't do that until you needed to replace it as it isn't easy to get the gear apart on the red one. I have a lot of flights on my original red Cherokee and the nose gear is still in good shape, although I have some cracking around the bearing on the bottom of the fuselage. For the stabilator hinge, it isn't swappable between versions. Unless you are flying full power on 4S and coming out of high speed dives, the stabilator on the red one is fine. The only pilots complaining about flutter were ones flying very aggressive on 4S. The Cherokee isn't that kind of plane, so they were basically exceeding the flight envelope and getting flutter. One part that I will be changing over on my old Cherokees from the new one is the cockpit. The new pilot and plastic covering over the instrument panel are so much nicer.

I looked around for pictures of the washers, but couldn't find a good one to link in the comments. I have to shoot some videos this coming weekend and can probably get the Mustang out of storage to show the washers better. There isn't an upgraded gear available for the P-51 and it really doesn't need it. The only issue is that the angle of the gear makes the plane more susceptible to nosing over. It doesn't need shock absorbing gear at this size and weight. The washer stack under the rear of the mounting plate for the retract only lift the rear of the plate a few millimeters, but since you are changing the angle, the movement at the tire is much greater. Moving the tire contact patch further forward is what prevents the plane from nosing over, or at least helps reduce the tendency. You still need good elevator authority and the ground can't cause too much resistance. Thick grass is going to be a no-go regardless of how far the main gear are angled towards the front. I have nosed over a Timber in tall grass, which is a plane that is almost impossible to nose over.

Thanks! My maiden flight was one that I didn't use the wood alignment tool and needed maximum down elevator to get the plane back on the ground. It wanted to keep climbing. Set the elevator using the wood and it only needed a few clicks of trim to fly perfectly level. The wood works to align the elevator.

You can find the trainers located here www.horizonhobby.com/airplanes/by-type/trainer/

Thanks! I will keep that video idea in mind, but hopefully I never need to actually do it. From what I can tell, you access the screw holding the front strut assembly together in the nose by taking off the canopy and reaching the screw from there, not from the front by taking off the cowl. Once the screw is removed, the steering tiller and strut tube are free to be separated. The strut will now be able to be pulled out from the bottom of the plane. Thankfully, I haven't ever needed to replace the nose gear on any of my 3 Cherokees. I have spare parts for my 2 originals just in case, but after years of flying, they are still good. The key is always to land on the main gear and let the nose settle. Avoid rough terrain as much as possible and pick up the plane after flying and carry it out to the runway before take off. I have seen so many guys damage their planes when taxiing to and from the runway. A chipmunk hole is all it takes to make a bad day. Inspect the runway as well. Be sure not to line the plane up on a path that will cause it to hit something that can cause damage.

Thanks! To remove the strut covers and change the wheels/tires, you need to cut the plastic strut covers in half. That sounds scary, but it isn't. If you are looking at the landing gear from the side and look carefully, you will see a line where the plastic strut cover has a front half and back half and they are glued together. Once you find that line, take an Xacto knife or hobby saw and carefully cut along the line. If the plane is sitting upside down with the gear pointing upwards, the cut will be vertical. You will need to cut about 75% the length of the plastic seam on one side and about half of the other side. Once you have that done, use a small flathead screwdriver and insert the tip into the cut. Pry the plastic strut cover apart and it will split apart cleanly along the cut lines. You will now have 2 strut cover halves with one for the front and one for the rear. The metal wire strut is now exposed and you can slide off the factory wheel. The strut covers are what keep the wheel centered and attached to the wire strut. Replace the wheels and glue the strut covers back together using plastic cement. I used Tamiya glue for plastic model kits. It works great and it isn't too strong of a bond in case I need to remove the strut covers again. I have a lot of pictures of the project located here flic.kr/s/aHBqjAfNTY

@@BRGT350 I'll keep those priceless pics for my folders....great thank for this mark of generosity and for the tricks to remove the wheels...I'll try to make my ladie as beautyfull as your's .My goal is to make a Royal Canadian Air Force Beech C45...I hope she will be as fine as your's .Thanks again and sorry for my english, I'm a french canadian from Quebec... 😁👍.

no problem and happy to help out. When you are ready for the graphics, check out Callie Graphics. She can make your Royal Canadian Air Force graphics.

@@BRGT350 Yes I already know Callie Graphics, I had some graphics from her for other projets... 👍😁 ...By the way, to remove the glass canopy, simply pass a knife not to sharp between glass and body I suppose...? Thanks again for your support and have good summer time Flying... 👍 My Alby whit Callie Graphics .. kzbin.info?search_query=custom+paint+parkzone+albatros+d.va+

yes, that will pop off the canopy. It won't need much to get the glue to release. Start at the back and work around to the front. The glue between the canopy (plastic) and the foam isn't very strong. Slowly pull up on the plastic and the glue will release. Use Foam-Tac to glue it back together.

Thank you! It was a fun project and I like how it looks.

I haven't installed the flaps on the Cub, but the addition of flaps shouldn't cause any issues with SAFE or AS3X. I would do the following checks; 1) in SAFE beginner mode, raise the throttle to over 25% and then back to idle. Check SAFE by lifting the right wing and see if the right aileron lifts, do the same for the left wing and see if the left aileron goes up. That will tell you if SAFE is working. Both SAFE and AS3X need the throttle advanced to over 25% to get them to activate. 2) Verify the 3-position switch on the transmitter isn't assigned to both flaps and SAFE. If the flaps and SAFE are on the same switch, that could be causing the receiver to become confused. It could be a case where deploying the flaps is changing the SAFE modes at the same time. 3) Check SAFE beginner, intermediate, and experience modes with flaps up, take-off flaps, and landing flaps as that will tell you if the flaps are on the same switch. I am betting the issue isn't with the Cub, but the transmitter switch assignments.

yeah, in hindsight, that would have been good to add. I have found that the more and more I fly the Timber, the more time I am adding to the timer. I have also settled on a 2700 4S pack as my new favorite. I didn't have that battery available for the flight reviews. The 2700 4S works in most of my planes, has extra flight time over the 2200, but isn't as heavy as a 3000. There is a point in which too much battery hurts performance due to the weight.

No servo on the float rudders. Instead they use fishing line attached to the tail wheel so when the plane's rudder moves, the tail wheel and float rudders move. It works really well and avoids having to worry about a servo or wiring getting wet.

@@BRGT350 Thanks for the information on the fishing line. Cool - Grand Haven Michigan - You are close to my club. Flying Pilgrims RC Club . ✈

Where is that located? I haven't heard of that one before.

​@@BRGT350 We are about 5 miles east of AnnArbor. ✈

Oh ok, so the other side of the state. I used to get out there every summer for Thunder over Michigan airshow.

Because he has zero experience with hand tools, the Cub isn't the easiest plane to assemble, and his mom was already messaging him upset that the video was taking too long. You can see him keep checking his watch because of the angry messages. It wasn't the time or place to try and teach him. It would have made the video 3x as long.

He’ll never learn if you don’t let him try. Holding his hand helps nothing. The fact is, it seems like you enjoyed it too much. He, on the other hand, looked extremely bored.

well he has parents and if his parents want to teach him mechanical skills, they can surely do so. Instead, the mom was very upset the process was taking too long and didn't want anymore time spent making the video. We had already filmed the unboxing video prior to the assembly. The kid has parents who are there to teach him, it isn't my responsibility to be the teacher. Or he will figure out things on his own, like I had to do. I would take things apart and put them back together to learn how they worked. I offered this winter to teach the kids how to work on their RC cars and the parents didn't want them wasting their time. I am not the parent and not responsible to teach. I have offered and the offer wasn't accepted.

I haven't done any maintenance to it yet. I give it a solid inspection after each run to see if there is any water getting into the hull, remove anything that is caught on the props or rudders, and dry it off. I have had far less things to do it vs an older Traxxas Blast that always seemed to need work. The motors were always burning out, the linkage for the prop and rudder needed continual lubrication, and it never seemed to just work. The Swift Boat has been trouble free by comparison. It is a pretty simple layout with the rudders being separate from the props and none of the jet components like the PBR. I really want to get a PBR as there is one locally that is restored. It also suffers from jet pump issues, so the full scale and RC have that similarity. For me, the Swift Boat has been 100% awesome. I love how it performs, how it looks, all the scale details, the lights, the run time, everything about it. There are so many speed boats out there and I had no interest in something like that, but when the Swift Boat was announced last year, I jumped on it!

Depends on the application. For civilian planes that are kept in excellent condition, I use the highest level of gloss I can find. For natural metal warbirds, I use a semi-gloss since the aluminum dulls pretty quickly when the plane is in service. A restored warbird is glossy, but I make mine as they are in service, so a semi-gloss. For olive drab/gray, Navy tri-color, or modern military, I use the flattest I can find. That is the primary range from high gloss to dead flat. Between those, I use whatever works best for the application. Sometimes a semi-gloss is just enough along with a satin. Also on bare metal warbirds, not everything is glossy. The silver has some shine to it, but the decals, anti-glare panels, and identification paint are satin or dead flat.