TLDW #15 - Building a Charcoal Tanto Forge

Serious students of the forge can watch more full process traditional Japanese swordsmith style forge construction here: • Museum Forge part 1/7 ...
Traditional Japanese swordsmithing forges are purpose-built with certain design elements specific to the tasks involved in tanren and hizukuri. This forge is a scaled down version specifically geared for tanto and smaller knives but has a removable spacer to allow for a larger fire when needed.
Most of history was forged with very simple equipment made from found and natural materials. A basic charcoal forge can be made with clay, brick, or even mud and stone. Details about traditional measurements and clay mixtures here: islandblacksmit...

[@islandblacksmith]

Details about traditional measurements and clay mixtures here: islandblacksmith.ca/2017/01/building-traditional-swordsmith-forge/

[@RougemontForge]

That is really cool! I love the simplicity of the setup.

[@TwinCitiesKing89]

Awesome work man. I'm diggin the materials you have to put this all together.

[@lifeofasandwich5721]

i want to live in that forge!

[@islandblacksmith]

...it is more livable now that i put a metal roof on and stopped the leaks!

[@shaugt241]

Really nice, thanks for sharing this. Enjoy your beautiful forge, you deserve it ;)

[@MVPSlashGG]

Primitive Technology? No talking just pure contents and its awesome..

[@laetpat]

Thanks for sharing. always intersting ;)

[@kenmarapese9085]

Beautiful

[@youngknifemaker283]

Hey man, I really enjoy your content and find it inspiring to watch your videos, expecially the long ones because they show the entire process of the forging. I still have sime questions for you. 1.: Could you do more forging videos on classical tantos if you make one because I believe that it would teach me and your other viewers more than if we watch the same videos over and over again and we can discover new things we may have not recognised in the other ones. Second, I'd like to know more about japanese hammers, their weight and every other aspect that olays an important rile in forging. Keep the great work up.Greetings from Germany ^__^

[@islandblacksmith]

here's a series on the details and geometry of classical tanto: islandblacksmith.ca/tag/tanto-geometry/

[@islandblacksmith]

my approach won't change much, the camera angle might, and your observational abilities and paradigm may improve over time too ^___^ ...stay tuned and i will put up a few more as i am able...in the meantime, watch these guys a few dozen times too: kzbin.info/aero/PLBJ5AOs7cMwAKoUMo-WZ8r9Uv6rVlzn3e kzbin.info/aero/PLBJ5AOs7cMwDCK5FCUwz3dFOYdroKPbT0

[@youngknifemaker283]

Thanks for your quick answer, will do :D

[@nickwoo2]

do the charcoal fines in the bottom not burn or will they burn and turn to ash as you use the forge?

[@islandblacksmith]

a combination of both...depends on the charcoal and the use of water...

[@6skull6kid6]

THANK YOU.

[@TingTingalingy]

Clever method using the timber for leverage & the track for a break. Brake?

[@Silentsea117]

I'd love to see you make a wakizashi

[@willelliott8100]

I'd love to see him make a katana

[@candiedapple1860]

Aj Sanmiguel With his current setup, that would be impossible as his forge is too small. He'd have to finish the "Soulsmithing" forge first.

[@islandblacksmith]

my forge can handle wakizashi, the museum forge can handle up to full sized katana and maybe even tachi...the soulsmithing forge is also full sized but belongs to pierre and is very far from the island... soulsmithing.com/

[@candiedapple1860]

Oh, I didnt think your forge would fit a wakizashi.(then again wakizashi is as far as I know two and a half feet.) Would you ever consider building a larger forge? Just being nosy.

[@islandblacksmith]

the museum forge is full sized so i have both an efficient one for smaller work and a large on for bigger projects...just need more charcoal now!

[@nagarajanraja8366]

Hello bro add more videos of knife making. I'm eager to see how you are doing this and you are doing well

[@islandblacksmith]

stay subbed, more to come!

[@proudpict2057]

Wish I could have helped, an extra set of hands would have been a bit easier on you. Considering building a similar set up myself. I’ve been saving all my bricks and materials just the same.

[@zakarymarquez9074]

Could we ever see how you made your tongs for holding the bar stock?

[@islandblacksmith]

i just modified some old tongs i had, but i will put it on the list if i need another pair...

[@zakarymarquez9074]

Awesome, thanks!

[@spartoiss488]

hello man, respect. Do you think it's a good idea to put the forge outside in the garden ? 😂

[@islandblacksmith]

depends on the garden and the neighbours...and the weather!

[@workwithnature]

At 7:45 don't use that looks galvanized with zinc. Are you still alive?

[@islandblacksmith]

galvanized but nowhere near the fire...you have to heat zinc up to bright orange if you want to breath in the fumes...

[@jasonverrastro1709]

Hi love your videos. Could you tell me what is the mixture you put around the tue iron. I have been wanting to build a side blast forge and I don't want to have to worry about water cooling If that mix can stand up to the heat of your forge it may make for a much easier build for me.

[@jasonverrastro1709]

never mind i found it on your other video.

[@castandforge9927]

The forge looks great! Can you tell me what was the white stuff mixed with the charcoal?

[@islandblacksmith]

plenty of details about traditional measurements and clay mixtures here: islandblacksmith.ca/2017/01/building-traditional-swordsmith-forge/

[@castandforge9927]

Crossed Heart Forge - islandblacksmith Thank you very much!

[@DobunKnives]

thanks)

[@arceusmaster91]

are those all firebrick? I'm setting up a similar forge, and it's hard to find large bricks like that nearby for less than $5 a brick. I don't have the funds to buy 30 or so firebricks of that size at $5 each, so it'd be amazing if you were using an alternative.

[@islandblacksmith]

the yellow ones around the firepot are hard firebrick that were reclaimed from a potters kiln, the rest are regular bricks from old chimneys and walls...if you have charcoal powder and clay you can make your own soft firebrick but you might be able to earn more than the cost of your firebrick in the time it would take to make them...another alternative is to build with any brick you can find and then line it with the clay charcoal brasque mixture...

[@arceusmaster91]

I have a ton of clay, and a fair bit of charcoal powder. I'll probably do the second one. Thanks for the advice!

[@TwinCitiesKing89]

What is your quikset? Fine charcoal and that white powder. What's that?

[@islandblacksmith]

just scraps of natural clay...

[@TheMrplongeur]

Hey, have you ever tried to make your steel (from scrap or iron ore )?

[@islandblacksmith]

so far just reclaimed steel, but i have the materials ready when i have time (and a massive pile of charcoal) to do both of those things...

[@marioamor5982]

Used lime whit charcoal?

[@islandblacksmith]

just clay, from the ground or potter's scrap...more details in the description/link...

[@superspinach5338]

Hello, I'm currently making my own forge (japanese style). I have a few questions regarding the bottom of the forge and the charcoal bed. Should the bottom plates be thick ?(I was planning on using 30 mm thick refractory plates) And does the charcoal bed absorbs the heat of the forge or is it the water that keeps the bottom cool? Finally, should I use the clay mixture as a cement for my bricks ? Greetings from France

[@islandblacksmith]

there are many ways to build a forge that will work, the charcoal bed insulates it and the moisture helps keep the bed from burning up too quickly...i would just dry-stack the bricks so you can adjust as you need to...here are some details that should help: islandblacksmith.ca/2017/01/building-traditional-swordsmith-forge/

[@superspinach5338]

Thank you for your answer. I already read your article on your website but I needed some explanations. And do you poor water when the forge is burning or do you do it before you light it up ?

[@islandblacksmith]

there are some details in there that may have been added since you read it over...one way to do it is to slightly wet the charcoal bed the night before so it is mildly damp the next day...if need be some water can be sprinkled while working to control burning...

[@superspinach5338]

Thanks again, one last question concerning the charcoal, does the type of wood used to make the charcoal changes the way it burns ?( burning time, heat ouput, ...)

[@islandblacksmith]

yes, but basic forging can be done with almost any charcoal material... islandblacksmith.ca/tag/charcoal/ islandblacksmith.ca/how-charcoal-is-made/

[@zaiter01]

Saludos yo queria preguntar, cuanto tiempo y a que temperatura de debe hornear un cuchillo luego de templarlo. gracias

[@islandblacksmith]

it depends on the steel, the hardening technique, and the final use of the knife...in japanese tradition with low alloy carbon steels, temper is left quite hard, often light yellow...

[@zaiter01]

ok y si yo uso una pletina de un acero de herreria. luego del templado, que debo hacer

[@bertoldszabo3810]

Hi do you by any chance know what steel that big circular sawblade is made out of? I have a pretty much identical piece to it and iam not sure if it would be suitable for knife making. Thanks!

[@laetpat]

Habitually, this type of blade was made in low carbon steel. Only the cuting edge is in high carbon steel for wood cuting, or in tungsten for stone cuting. Try to cut the blade with an abrasive saw, and look the shape and length of spark. See table : notech.franceserv.com/acier/nuance-acier-test-etincelles.jpg

[@bertoldszabo3810]

Chani_tth thanks for the help. yes i did do the spark test which indicates a mid carbon range content. I just thought someone have a bit more specific idea.

[@islandblacksmith]

i don't know what steel, but it is probably quite suitable for knifemaking...here's some tests for you to try on it: islandblacksmith.ca/2016/12/testing-reclaimed-steel-for-knife-making/

[@islandblacksmith]

the large circular sawblades i have seen here appear to be fairly high carbon, this type for stone cutting has diamond and bronze edges but the rest will take a hamon...yes, always test before making a knife ^____^

[@bertoldszabo3810]

Crossed Heart Forge - islandblacksmith thanks for help and reassurance you have nő idea the sleepless nights i spent despite the spark test. My first knives iam making out of this blade and it should be enough material for practicing. :D p.s. love your work very meditative.

[@NKG416]

What's the purpose of layering the forge base with charcoal powder?,can i lift the base foundation close to tuyere so that i no need to layer it with charcoal powder?

[@islandblacksmith]

i ran my old forge that way for years, using a piece of kiln shelf below the tuyere...you just can't adjust the floor depth or bank up the ends for different work but if you aren't doing tanren or oroshigane it is not usually necessary...more info here: islandblacksmith.ca/2017/01/building-traditional-swordsmith-forge/

[@NKG416]

wait,which forge do you mean by this: "i ran my old forge that way for years" i can't seem find tanren or oroshigane in google i only ask what is the reason of pouring charcoal powder to the forge

[@NKG416]

and dave...,your website is confusing for using japanese measurement ,not everyone is understand japanese

[@islandblacksmith]

just use the bricks you have and change the shape to improve your forge...make it a bit deeper and make the air come in the side, you will find something that works for you as you keep forging and learning...

[@NKG416]

thanks for the wise advice!

[@marioamor5982]

What sand use?

[@islandblacksmith]

any sand...many details here: islandblacksmith.ca/2017/01/building-traditional-swordsmith-forge/

[@naimhoxchi7764]

Друг ты супер!!

[@NKG416]

Is that cocaine?

[@islandblacksmith]

"...do you have any idea what the street value of this mountain is?" --charles de mar

[@NKG416]

hahhaah man you're hilarious!

[@angelann9372]

I love this 💖