Board climbing is KILLING your outdoor climbing

[@sambeard4428]

Living in the flattest country in the world is hurting my outdoor climbing

[@sambamstewart]

😂

[@TomOHalloranAus]

sub optimal indeed

[@jackymak4896]

Out of pure curiosity, where are you from? I’m from Singapore with nice gyms but essentially no outdoor options

[@arnejeder840]

@@jackymak4896 the longest natural sport- or tradroute in the netherlands is probably 7,3 meters long. however they do get creative about bouldering and artificial stuff, so big ups holland.

[@joolsgrommers1466]

Why I moved from NL to Sheffield! 😅

[@philb6416]

Title got that Athlean X ring to it haha

[@TomOHalloranAus]

never heard of it. ill take your word for it :)

[@keiferrussell8543]

@@TomOHalloranAusthey’re letting you know that you’ve done a great job making a clickbait title

[@TomOHalloranAus]

@@keiferrussell8543 and then hopefully been able to deliver value to you in the video

[@terraflow__bryanburdo4547]

Face Pulls on a Moon Board 😂

[@TheMasterMacc]

Tom you clearly underestimate how weak my arms are and how much my feet need to work to keep me on the wall

[@TomOHalloranAus]

Haha you and me both. Big weakness for me im keen to improve. We need to get front wheel driving some more

[@romanrogowski1752]

One thing that really helped my outdoor climbing was attempting to send every low-graded climb in a particular area. These climbs often have a lot to teach you about the style of that area (for example, one local crag taught me how to top out on heinous granite slopers). Also, I've found that many low-graded climbs exist that have a single-move crux which may be V-easy if you have the reach, but require insane body tension and/or power if you don't. Learning to try insanely hard on V1 has made me a better climb all around. 💪

[@TomOHalloranAus]

so easy to overlook the easy climbs for sure! i think every climb has something to teach us. psyched to hear you're feeling the same. i'm constantly shocked at how hard some of the 'easy' climbs can be haha.

[@TucAdventures]

Half the moves on my recent moonboard projects went when I realized I could make it to the hold without cutting...but the other half went when I stopped thinking about my lower half and locked off like an animal...😅

[@TomOHalloranAus]

And knowing when to pull out each power is the crux of it all. Good one for seeing it

[@Loaftie]

Would love to see another moonboard video by you, possibly on the new 2024 set.

[@TomOHalloranAus]

once the pulley is back in action, im keen

[@gregspauldini3139]

It's done the opposite for me. The 16 moonboard which I recently discovered has taken my climbing outside to another level. It forces me to engage with the wall more on fingery holds, while trying to keep my feet on on dynamic moves. Now the Kilter I'm not a huge fan of, but the 16 moonboard is so helpful. Would love to try the 19.

[@TomOHalloranAus]

Yep, can certainly help pull you up in that area if that's the low hanging fruit in your climbing

[@stuartlevesque2379]

Tom, I highly recommend you check out Tension's board lord video. In it, Zach Galla, Noah Wheeler, and Ben Burkhalter give burns on the extension to the Acta Non Verba project and give it V15. I think you'd also be interested in seeing the intended beta (although yours seems to work killer!).

[@TomOHalloranAus]

Yeah I since watched it. Really enjoyed it. Very psyched to play with their beta and try the full thing soon 😀

[@paulgennaro2001]

I agree with this 100% about front wheel-drive, especially when climbing past V10.

[@TomOHalloranAus]

Yeah it feels hard to move away from sometimes

[@lukedavies900]

I fell into this trap big time. Turns out sorting by most repeats leads you to become a specialist mostly in massive moves on good holds. Guess what style doesn't crop up outdoors a lot 😅

[@TomOHalloranAus]

Haha totally what I have found as well. Very fun, but not relevant sometimes. Great to recognise that

[@paulmorin2582]

Very helpful video -- thanks!

[@TomOHalloranAus]

Psyched you found it helpful, Paul. Thank you

[@RealWorldClimbing]

Completely agree. I feel like the upper level MB problems are mostly solved by campusing on smaller or further holds. I tend to gravitate to technique nuanced problems. I find them more fun.

[@krakenattackin7617]

Honestly, I think the MB is kind of a crappy board compared to its competitors because the feet are always massive and there's no dedicated footholds (just foot follows hands). I'm sure it's useful for some people's goals, but for the kind of stuff I am training for outside it seems pretty poor.

[@RealWorldClimbing]

@@krakenattackin7617 totally get that. I like some parts of it, but it has downfalls for sure.

[@TomOHalloranAus]

Yeah I’ve totally found that north of V10 on the MB is pretty specific. I like it, but in small doses. The movement is pretty insane. I think the board really shine in the V5-8 range.

[@GeeZus2011]

Really good lessons Tom, so simple yet I always seem to forget about my legs

[@TomOHalloranAus]

Psyched you enjoyed. Thank you. Haha they can be easy to forget

[@Omega-kp1ky]

at 3:50 is your finger hyperextended like 90 degrees or am i just seeing it wrong lol

[@TomOHalloranAus]

haha yeah my fingers can get a little bent out of shape sometimes

[@felslius]

Having sessions dedicated to board technique which focus on body tension (and thus may as well just be strength drills) is mentally exhausting. Yet, especially when building up that tension starting with easier climbs, I found that it motivates me to not only execute really well, but also to almost hyper-focus on beta, positioning, active pushing/pulling through your legs and hips/lower chain activation. Whenever you stop emphasizing raw ascents, the objective of archieving movement perfection becomes much more fun and accomplishable - even in limit problems, given due time!

[@TomOHalloranAus]

yes I like that. the separation of just getting to the top and actually doing it well can be very different things

[@isaackenny4416]

The eliminate beta on Acta Non Verba was nothing short of insanity 😭 Crazy strength Tom!

[@TomOHalloranAus]

Haha I've since seen the intended beta. Will have to have a play on it

[@Bizdom3]

Hi Tom, I’ve watched your content over the years and am loving your board sessions. Do you have any advice for people having issues with inflammation in their synovial joints? The swelling seems to go down after prolonged rest but seems to come back after one session. Tips on how to climb while recovering from this would also be appreciated.

[@TomOHalloranAus]

Hey mate, best thing to do would be to speak to a climbing specific Physio or similar medical professional. Move Clinic are great if you’re around the Blue Mountains/Sydney area. They may even offer online consult? I’m not going to pretend to know anything about the complexity of those injuries. Getting proper, knowledgeable advice would be the way to go

[@Bizdom3]

@@TomOHalloranAus Hi Tom, thank you so much for your advice. Will definitely book in to see a professional!

[@joolsgrommers1466]

I kinda felt attached by the title, but then realised it wasn’t aimed at me! I’m tall and try to cut as little as I possibly can as my 86Kg is tricky to stop.. Board climbing has saved my form when travelling, glad I’m already taking your advice! 😅 Off to a 2019 MB this afternoon, hard as nails! 🥳

[@TomOHalloranAus]

Haha glad there's something there for you mate. Hope you enjoyed the session.

[@joolsgrommers1466]

@@TomOHalloranAus They had a 25degree 2019 MB. New terrain for me, but suits me pretty well. Fun session.

[@TomOHalloranAus]

Never tried less than 40 on the MB. Would be interested to try sometime

[@joolsgrommers1466]

@@TomOHalloranAus I’m not sure how many problems in an interesting grade range (for you) there are. Holds all felt pretty juggy even for me (just about manage V6 in a session on the MB normally). Insta reel coming up! 😊

[@senorblondie]

I prefer using open feet on the problems I set on my spraywall. I avoid tracking and try and use small footholds. It allows me to train much closer to the way I climb outdoors and also I enjoy my problems more because I am not forcing myself into an awkwardly small box I rarely climb in outdoors...

[@TomOHalloranAus]

Small, dedicated feet on boards are awesome. Super great thing to add in. Nice one

[@nickem8158]

So good Tom! I've recently been thinking about this. I think I see it a bit like this: The fingerboard is hyper specific to finger strength. The board translates that strength to technique on the wall. It almost links the two modes of the sport together.

[@TomOHalloranAus]

Yes totally. A bit like knowledge and application of knowledge.

[@doruso5610]

Outdoor Climbing is killing my Board Climbing. Priorities 😤

[@TomOHalloranAus]

Haha you'll have to get that sorted out quick smart :)

[@daniellegoodspeed5800]

100% agree with you and your explanations were point on.

[@TomOHalloranAus]

Thanks. Glad they resonated for you

[@pietaripurovaara8315]

My spray wall climbing is mostly just trying to find whacky sequences on small crimps and I felt attacked by the thumbnail XD the video makes a great point tho, and I think it can be indeed applied to most indoor climbing! Thank you for the work you do

[@TomOHalloranAus]

Haha yeah i'll never stop board climbing. The idea is people can be a little blind to what they may be training and then get frustrated at the crag when it's not working out after all that hard work. But the simple little tweaks can get things smashing through in the right direction. Glad it made sense

[@BiggFanDDD]

I 100% feel that I'm lacking some strength because I never board climb (no access, only commercial sets) but when I climb outside I never really see those crazy moonboard style jump and cut moves. So idk, am I really lacking or do I just not realise that I'm lacking because I don't have access to a board?

[@TomOHalloranAus]

You can definitely find high levels of funk and hard moves in the commercial sets which can help outside. Boards aren't necessarily the end game for your strength and power training. Sometimes it's just a little of everything that needs to improve

[@wookie19822007]

Still wondering what the unused hold on Acta Non Verba is for

[@TomOHalloranAus]

on the extension you use it. Different sequence

[@wookie19822007]

@@TomOHalloranAus I'll have to find the vid, cheers

[@TomOHalloranAus]

@@wookie19822007 board lords ep on tensions page. full line is called deus ex machina

[@flyntrobertson2450]

for me i dont ever think ill stop board climbing because i actually prefer climbing on a board over climbing on a real wall. im not sure why but i enjoy board climbing more than anything and all my projects are board climbs. maybe if i get better ill find that board climbing is boring but right now climbing v9 - v10 on the moonboard for projects is super fun

[@TomOHalloranAus]

Haha I totally feel that. I’ve for sure had times of being more psyched on board things than rock. It’s pretty all time!

[@comptonstills]

the weather in Sydney is killing my outdoor climbing currently....

[@TomOHalloranAus]

haha I feel that right now. another wet weekend

[@sandorgal7858]

I feel like for me it's exactly the opposite. I'm climbing a lot on the moonboard and a 45° spray wall but I never really cut loose. For me, it's way way easier to keep my feet on the wall rather than jump. Maybe it's because I'm more of an outdoor lead climber? :))))

[@TomOHalloranAus]

Outdoor lead climbing will teach you that for sure. I'm lost without my feet as well. Which means im trying to get better at that cutloose style to bump up the strength and coordination there.

[@chrisbriscoe8151]

I noticed how squared up my movement had become, it feels strong but turns out to be a one trick pony, i try to set now to limit some of the natural 'squareness' board climbing puts you in. I also sometimes set foot holds or only use really small ones. I have a 20° board and am making small holds as well now to build more functional finger strentgh, at nearly 50 i dont have the time or patience for hangboard sessions...more climbing i say! Love your vids too Tom, Cheers for the content. 😊

[@joolsgrommers1466]

My home wall is 25 and I’ve found that going sideways can mimic much steeper angles (if you do feet follows or just high feet). But tbf, most of the holds are little grifters for sure.

[@TomOHalloranAus]

Good one Chris. Sounds like a great fix. Small feet are a major level up for a board. I love our tiny footholds. I'm with you on the FB as well. It's a total bore. Much prefer boards for finger strength. Enjoy :)

[@TheMeaning0fLife]

It's funny because I've actually found that my core/tension knowledge while climbing has been one of my biggest gains from (basically) exclusively climbing on my tiny home spraywall... Of course with real rock when it's in-season. Doing your couch-sets (realistically, bathroom sets) and combining that with the "if you do 7 attempts and make progress, reset the 7 counter and keep going" idea has made me figure out all sorts of small tricks to use for bad footholds and tricky moves that I don't think I would ever have come up with during a commercial set. I still think the general idea behind this video is true, because I see it in some friends who basically only moonboard, but I think overall if you're training certain things deliberately, it doesn't matter if it's on a board or not. Caveat: Also install some absolute garbage footholds on your boards and use them exclusively. Deliberate training using jugs for feet probably won't help that much.

[@TomOHalloranAus]

Boards can totally give you a lot. It’s basically all I train on. Sounds like you’ve got yours working super well for you. And a nice little setting/projecting routine. The big problem is the board, yard and cut style. Where you slap a clumsy foot back on a big hold and yard hard again.

[@buddydoesstuff000]

Theres also a full size TB2 in Albion Park quite close to Nowra maybe get the second ascent of Hartkase??? If you end up going can you let me know wouldn't mind a tension sesh with one of if not the best climbers in Australia🤣🤣🤣

[@TomOHalloranAus]

Yes, keen to get to albion park when I can. haha I think i'd get far too pumped on ryans route atm. not so much going on in my forearms currently. too much board climbing ;)

[@TheLuzonian]

I started setting my own climbs on MB because of this… lots of climbs are big throws and just gets bigger and not enough focused on body tension . Great vid but if done right training boards def help outdoor climbing

[@TomOHalloranAus]

Good one! Great to see it and make something that works. Boards are the best when you get them working for you 💪. Which isnt too hard when you know what to do 😀. Sounds like you’re nailing it.

[@xyzzy10000]

I have to say this is basically true for me. I set up a board in my garage 6 months ago and quit my gym membership. Spent all winter climbing on the board and getting strong. But my outdoor climbing didn't get any better, in fact it got worse. My climbing IQ went down a lot, as did my lead head and my endurance. I was also expending so much energy on the board during the week that I was too tired to perform outside on weekends. To make matters worse, I picked up a finger injury from board climbing so much! Still, I think (hope) it will help in the long run as I adapt to it.

[@TomOHalloranAus]

Yeah I’ve seen it happen. Cool thing is with a couple tweaks like harder footholds and more involved movement, you can make the board gains an awesome thing for rock as well 💪. Good luck with the finger. Stick with it 😀

[@caitlinschokkerphoto]

My lack of board climbing might be killing my outdoor climbing but that’s okay because I’m having a blast climbing classic French limestone for the year 🤩

[@TomOHalloranAus]

That's a pretty good plan for the year

[@dizietz]

Nice video Tom! How do you like the short TB? I am psyched to hear your feedback as you climb more on it!

[@TomOHalloranAus]

I love it. It’s brilliant and the best LED board I’ve ever used for overall fun and for how well it works for outdoor training. Keen to make a bigger review video on it soon

[@dizietz]

@@TomOHalloranAus looking forward to it! Cover the spray vs mirror angle too please Tom :)

[@jawsrocks7509]

Putting the board down to 70° helps me get out of the “front wheel drive” climbing style too. The second you pull to hard with your arms you take a massive rip with so much momentum… you have to climb well

[@TomOHalloranAus]

yep, not going too far without feet when it gets that steep haha. nice one

[@__tasp__]

Very interesting. Personally, I feel like board climbing has made me far more technical as "just pulling through" doesnt get you very far into the grades or will only get you through specific types of problems. Also, for those of us without crags nearby or tons of other life obligations the board is the best thing ever, especially when you're not stoked on any gym routes, as it kind of becomes your "crag" given that the boulders never cycle out or leave. In this vein, you should set some moderates for us mortals on the TB2 Spray that incorporate interesting movements or skills. I'd love to be able to climb some things dreamed up by an Olympian :)

[@TomOHalloranAus]

there can certainly be a ton we can get out of board climbing which helps us outdoors. The TB2 is a huge winner for a board that can replicate outdoor style (bad feet, tensiony movements etc). A well set spray wall is the same. Definitely keen to set some lower grades on the TB2

[@jrigs30]

Comp boulder setting is what was killing my outdoor climbing. Boards are keeping me putting pressure on small feet and body positioning better than big holds and big moves with heel hooks everywhere actually. But then again, I am 51, an old school setter and climber. All about outdoor type setting and climbing. And hey, if anyone wants to try some of my problems and my "outdoor" type setting on the Kilter, please give them some goes! jmwclimbs 😀

[@TomOHalloranAus]

Comp boulders are for sure going to kill your outdoor climbing. I'll keep an eye open for your boulders next time im on a kilter though

[@gregspauldini3139]

Yeah we recently got a kilter board at my gym and while I enjoyed at first, I honestly just got bored with it Many of the climbers at my gym really enjoy it, but I just find it limiting as far types of holds and movement. I get bored with things easily though say maybe it's just me.

[@TomOHalloranAus]

There's certainly a style on the Kilter board and if that's not your thing. Plenty of fun variety on the set boulders :)

[@dominicyau9005]

Thought you were genuinely just talking about sarsaparilla jelly beans for a good half minute 😂

[@TomOHalloranAus]

Haha I could've been!

[@huntrayisabeast16]

Excellent video, love your content! My gym is very small, an once ive cleared the main wall i switch over to the kilterboard (only training board we have). I ended up doing so many "no match" problems that brain forgot it was even a choice xD Any chance you know the song names in video? Shits groovy

[@huntrayisabeast16]

Specifically the song from 11:00 onward

[@TomOHalloranAus]

song at the end is Don't Bother by T shirt and sweats.

[@huntrayisabeast16]

@@TomOHalloranAus tysm!

[@Michael-zz8yx]

Board climbing and some smooth dnb! Excellent combination. I agree but i dont think people neee saving from board climbing. It is imo so much more fun than climbing in the gym. And indeed, board climbing doesnt need rules! Start on which ever row and finish where u want. Match heel hook, toe hook where possible. Nice one Tom

[@TomOHalloranAus]

psyched you enjoyed it mate. yes, certainly don't need saving at all. more that if you use the shoddy board technique on rock, it's generally not going to translate in the same way.

[@ryan_mcdonald]

Board climbing has given me a solid climbing IQ of 10, Perth granite is KILLING my outdoor climbing, Grampians in September though!

[@TomOHalloranAus]

haha my partner cut her teeth on the perth granite. gramps is always great. enjoy

[@Harry-ib1ge]

Tension 12 by 12 at Boulder lab Brunswick

[@TomOHalloranAus]

I've heard. could be worth the trip :)

[@eric752]

Great video indeed 🫡

[@TomOHalloranAus]

Thanks mate. Psyched you enjoyed it

[@nathankenny8837]

Theres the big feet on small hands vs small foot holds dilemma. I think im on big feet side maybe because my fingers are weak and I cant cut even if i want to. Also using my shit shoes on a home wall means im not poping off all the time. I think both are good but think big feet/small holds directly trains technique more effectively. Loved the vid

[@TomOHalloranAus]

Yeah there’s a huge change in how you climb things when the feet change a bit. Old shoes are a sneaky win as well. Soft and sloppy to really get the feet working. Psyche you enjoyed it ✌️

[@aleclandstra9787]

So hump of trouble is 9a+? Or is wheel of life your 9a+?

[@TomOHalloranAus]

HOT, but who knows, maybe it isn't. Don't really think about it too much :). The Wheel is a boulder ;)

[@aleclandstra9787]

@@TomOHalloranAus Did you take V14 for wheel? Or just not really count it because its more like a route? Hopefully it reopens soon!

[@gball8466]

Knee surgery is killing my climbing.

[@boidinktwistie4389]

climbing on a torn meniscus and mild tendonitis is killing my climbing

[@TomOHalloranAus]

Haha injuries will certainly slow you down :(

[@brothersoulshine]

I feel your pain. I think the bonus time I got from knee surgery quite some time ago has finally run out :-(

[@imadsultan8611]

Finally someone comes our and says what I've been thinking for a while now. I see "strong" climbers set the Kilter Board to the lowest setting and cut loose with about half the moves. Good for them for having strong arms, I could use stronger fingers myself, but I just don't think that's practical for outdoor sport climbing.

[@TomOHalloranAus]

Yeah there's not a massive crossover in strength/skill when it comes to that Kilter board style and the outdoors. I've seen plenty of folk train on those boards, then feel like they're ready for the proj on the weekend and just can't put it together. Not to say its not fun on a kilter board :)

[@helbt]

good footholds kill your outdoor climbing! i don't think board climbing in general is a problem but board climbing with good footholds (like you have on the moon, tension and kilter board) is. climbing on really bad footholds on 45 degree helped my lower body technique tremendously

[@TomOHalloranAus]

I'd actually day the TB2 is insanely good for your outdoor climbing. The footholds are so so good/hard and it really feels like you're outdoors. I've never felt that on a moon or kilter board

[@dominickappeler5150]

Very nice background music

[@TomOHalloranAus]

haha thanks. always fun trying to find the music for videos

[@randomhoe40]

is this why top tier climbers spend 90% of their training time on a spraywall? adam ondra for example.. also some of the top climbers in japan just mentioned they train almost only on the spraywall..

[@TomOHalloranAus]

Given the versatility of the boards, it's the perfect training tool. Just got to know how and when to go front wheel drive, not use heel hooks etc

[@antybris]

Climbing at coolum is killing my climbing

[@TomOHalloranAus]

Haha no way! Coolum is brilliant. Lots of good memories up there

[@ginolagazio]

Hump of trouble confirmed 36 9a+

[@TomOHalloranAus]

Sure, why not. To be honest though, I don't really know or care too much about the grade. It was the whole journey that makes me more psyched then the number at the end

[@ComputerManDanMiller]

That comment at 12:54 triggers me because it's not even true! You can designate "no matching" on a TB1 climb but by default there are no rules on it as to how to climb.

[@TomOHalloranAus]

perhaps they're just climbing on a bunch of no match boulders. all good :). i've fallen into similar traps of not seeing heel hooks or other little techniques after too much time on a board

[@bradberghan649]

Have you tried the mini moonboard?

[@TomOHalloranAus]

Not yeat, heard it's fun though

[@eugenechong3966]

They work Deus ex Machina - the extension for Acta Non Verba - in this Tension video: kzbin.info/www/bejne/p3utnHiZnNKVpsk

[@TomOHalloranAus]

Yes! Have since watched this video a couple times. Very keen for it :)

[@eugenechong3966]

@@TomOHalloranAus We gotta get you on their next Board Lords episode somehow. Tension goes to Australia??

[@TomOHalloranAus]

@@eugenechong3966 Haha wou;dn't that be sick. I'd be down for a trip to the US

[@Ptitviaud1337]

Yes. My thoughts ; "board climbing rewards a lot no brain climbing". It does. But it's not useless for outdoor. What i've noticed is that being able to pull hard, to power through a section, totally inefficiently, is actually a very good first step in a route crux or hard sequence. You've seen holds, it seems doable, but you haven't done it yet. Maybe it's the first time you're going up the route. I usually ram through those sections pretty quickly, in an ugly fashion. When i do, i think "ok. That's doable, but definitely sub-optimal. I'll find something better later" By the way, we could make the argument the other way : "climbing on those super technical boulders in the gym makes you optimize so many positions that when you encounter a good old no brainer boulder outside, you're unable to do it because you're trying to flee from hard moves". That's also true. Turns out, board and set boulders are very, very complementary.

[@TomOHalloranAus]

Ahhh I really like that perspective. Good one! Really great input. Thanks

[@jacobgaylord9277]

I saw Daniel Woods talking about his board and that it incorporated more foot holds to try to address the, “front wheel driving,” though I haven’t seen much on his board to know much more about it. Curious if you’d find that one more appealing?

[@TomOHalloranAus]

Yeah i've seen that too.The TB2 is actually super duper awesome for hard footholds and foot movement. It feels the closest to outdoor climbing of any of the boards I've been on. Proper good

[@jacobgaylord9277]

@@TomOHalloranAus That’s great to hear! I’ve been looking forward to whenever a gym in my area bites the bullet and gets a TB2 (I’m not sure of any locations in the Midwest United States that have one yet)

[@terraflow__bryanburdo4547]

My goal is to be a 5.14 climber who has never completed a board route (13+ so far) 😁

[@TomOHalloranAus]

Haha doing it old school. I have no doubt its possible.

[@terraflow__bryanburdo4547]

@@TomOHalloranAus Well I am 67.and go to the gym maybe 4x a year.

[@TomOHalloranAus]

@@terraflow__bryanburdo4547 crag days are much more fun than gym days :). good luck with the goal

[@terraflow__bryanburdo4547]

@@TomOHalloranAus I am lucky with great projects right now😎

[@MatthewG-b9l]

But Tom you barely rock climb anymore with those boards. Get out there and do the red proj!

[@TomOHalloranAus]

Haha that may be how it looks. But perhaps not what’s happening 😉

[@Fuzzira]

Alternate title: Your outdoor climbing will do fuck all to make you send that least repeated board benchmark.

[@TomOHalloranAus]

Also truth haha

[@natek231]

I’m glad I started climbing with this mindset when I started board climbing. My whole goal was to learn how to keep body tension and I refuse to call a climb complete if I cut lose on the board. Glad to hear I’m on the right path for board climbing and thanks for the tips!

[@TomOHalloranAus]

Nice one. It’s not always bad to cut loose, sometimes it’s the way. But if it’s just laziness and bad technique causing the cut, that’s when we need to reassess

[@VDB420]

3:53 Bro wtf is that freaky bend in your index finger lmaoooo

[@TomOHalloranAus]

haha yeah, weirdo fingers sometimes

[@igvadaimon]

​@@TomOHalloranAus Are your other DIPs hypermobile too? How has it impacted full crimping/injuries?

[@asdffsdafdsafdsa7877]

wrong again youtube algo, I don't board climb or climb outdoors!

[@TomOHalloranAus]

But it’s so much fun. Maybe it’s a sign you need to start

[@asdffsdafdsafdsa7877]

@@TomOHalloranAus I'll do board climbing when I think my fingers won't kill me and or explode for it.. outdoors is both inconvenient and scary 🤷‍♀

[@RicTodhunter]

Tom, how about you get together with a couple of mates and live stream a commentary for the Olympics climbing. The Channel Nine team is absolute crap again!

[@TomOHalloranAus]

I’ll try for the broadcast in LA

[@IAMDIMITRI]

You just assume I climb outside at all :D

[@TomOHalloranAus]

indoor life has way less rain :)

[@MrCormac1982]

❤‍🔥

[@TomOHalloranAus]

:)

[@RedSkyLB]

Savage beta on Acta!

[@TomOHalloranAus]

I'm keen to try the beta which you'll need of the full line

[@SpartaSpartan117]

Climbing is killing your outdoor climbing

[@TomOHalloranAus]

But where to from there, then?

[@ozziehf]

I would say my biggest mistake while training is not training for power/ finger strength sooner. There is a million videos on social media talking about how you shouldnt hang board until youve climbed for a year of that you dont need to get stronger just get better technique. And while it can be super beneficial to focus on tech it can make us blind to obvious weaknesses. I was climbing v7's but could do more than 5 pull-ups. This and many situations like that tend to not be obvoius when its ourselves so I encourage every climber to reflect on if you feel like technique or strength holds you back as its not as black and white as social media says it is.

[@TomOHalloranAus]

Yeah I hear that. There is certainly a point where you do just need the base level strength and power to rise up. Sounds like you have a fun little strength block coming up :)

[@piotrosc]

Hoseok lee DO NOT like this video! ;) Tom! If You have to use your legs it clearly means that your arms are just too weak :D

[@piotrosc]

Jokes aside, thank You for the knowledge that You share with us!!! It is priceless

[@TomOHalloranAus]

Haha exactly! Wolfgang would be proud of Hoseok

[@cyril113]

Good, I don't like outdoor climbing

[@giotto4321]

If that's a serious comment, I'm curious to know what it is that you enjoy about indoor climbing that you don't get when you climb outdoors? Or I suppose, what specifically is it you don't like about outdoor climbing?

[@TomOHalloranAus]

haha no worries then. it is fun though :)

[@johnjordansailing]

Why do so many of these supposed instructional videos end up being just some poser climbing? Cutting in some to camera verbiage to justify the click bait title.

[@TomOHalloranAus]

Really psyched you enjoyed the video, mate. Hope the rest of the videos on my channel add some value for you as well. Enjoy your future sailing adventures 😀. Being up in the bush, I don’t get to the ocean as much as I’d like. Always feels like home in the water. Think of me next time you’re out there 😀

[@GlassyMocha]

These kinds of videos and titles are KILLING my respect for the community

[@TomOHalloranAus]

sorry to hear you didn't get any value from this

[@jonathanginting9308]

Living in the Netherlands is killing my outdoor climbing. Board climbing is all I got 🥲

[@TomOHalloranAus]

Haha yeah that won't help. Board life aint a bad time though :)