Tools for Sharpening Plane Blades | Hand Plane Foundations

Welcome to my Hand Plane Foundations course. In this course I'm going to introduce the different types of bench planes and discuss their setup and use, focusing on the planes you’ll need most as a new hand tool woodworker. I’ll cover sharpening the iron, setting up the cap iron, and troubleshooting and tuning the tool up to perform at its best. I’ll finish up by building a modern two tone cutting board from some beautiful North American hardwoods, completely by hand.

[@edwardleonard9901]

I Will never get tired of thanking you for your knowledge, the wonderful way of explaining and for sharing it with us (especially the newbies to Woodworking). I'm also happy to see you so active again in KZbin. Keep them coming...I'll be here.

[@BRFineWoodworking]

Thank you 🙏!

[@DonsWoodies]

I'm looking forward to this series on sharpening. You've given a great intro here. I use both diamond and waterstones daily, and they both have their place. Same with honing guides. I personally think someone new to sharpening should get some kind of honing guide so they don't get frustrated doing the job freehand, as it does take a bit of time to develop the habit enough to do a good job.

[@thewalnutwoodworker6136]

I got away with $30 bucks worth of supplies at first. I gradually picked up natural Arkansas stones at the flea market, soft, hard and black are my go to stones. The black Arkansas give an edge equivalent to around 3000 grit witch allows me to get the best edges I have user felt in around 45 seconds.

[@whittysworkshop982]

I started with lapping films on float glass. It was quick and easy, but like you mentioned; there is always a cost to replace the films. I still have lots left, but I got a 1k diamond stone a while ago and I love how it cuts, so fast and its very clean too. I am gonna replace most of my grits with diamond stones when I start running out of the lapping films I have left. But I dont think diamonds will polish an edge, so I will still need a finer stone for finishing. Im not a fan of water stones; too messy, and too much work to maintain them, so they are out for me. Ive been lookin at either a surgical black stone, or a Rozsutec stone....... have you ever used a Rozsutec stone?? Its a natural stone from Slovakia, kinda green in colour.

[@BRFineWoodworking]

No, never heard of a Rozsutec stone. I’ve used surgical black though and they’re delightful on O1 and old steel. They’re not so great on the newer high tech steels. You’ll still probably want to finish with a strop and honing compound after the surgical black for the best edge.

[@whittysworkshop982]

@@BRFineWoodworking I hadnt heard of them either until I seen this one for sale. Its said that its a hard dense stone that wears slowly, but also cuts quickly; this usually isnt the case...... if something wears slowly then it usually cuts slowly too. Wondering if its "marketing" im listening to, to sell the stone. Supposedly if the stone is used "splash and go" then itll give a "misted" finish..... if soaked and used with clean water and light pressure itll give a full polish. Il probably go with the surgical black coz I cant find much info on the Rozsutek stone to base my choice from. Thanks Bob :)

[@jimcarter4929]

I use diamond stones. They need break in, initially they are courser and as break in occurs they settle down to advertised grit.The set I bought the course wore out to to point of being bare, but the medium and fine have have held up well, even with a lot of sharpening. Replace the course and it has held well beyond other. I have two planes, a block and four that have thicker irons and more exotic metal than my vintage ones and a take some more time to sharpen, to the extent that I rarely use the four because of the extra bother. Perhaps water stone would alleviate that but the whole process is a turn off for me. I just want to turn around , sharpen and get back to work.