Top 3 Climbing Technique Mistakes - FIXED!

[@ralphmunn1685]

Here's concept which will help ANYONE avoid that "lazy leg" thing: On overhanging terrain, one of your feet is your SUPPORT foot. This is the foot opposite the hand which will remain in place through the move, and it almost always requires a usable foothold. The other foot is your DRIVER. It should be placed opposite your TARGET handhold, in a straight line through your center of mass (lower abdomen.) If there's a foothold VERY near that spot, use it; if not, you're much better off planting your toe where it needs to be than using a foothold, EVEN A JUG, which is in the wrong spot! Also, place your driver high enough so that it will maintain contact all the way through the movement until you latch that next handhold - you'll be AMAZED at how much power this conserves!

[@nilsp9426]

Another beginner's sin that I am repeatedly guilty of is mispositioning relative to holds. My most mindblowing beginner moment was, when I figured out that it is 1000x easier to hold the starting holds of a sloper problem by starting with my butt on the floor compared to upright. It just did not occur to me that starting "farther down the problem" would be of any benefit. But it made all the difference. Another example is failing to move to the side when holds are at an angle. Yes, I know that you should generally position perpendicular to the edge of the hold and that straight arms are often better than lock off. But my stupidity is stronger, when putting that into practice...

[@talia-dp3si]

Very beginner climber here, so sorry for the stupid question! I don’t understand your second one - I’m assuming holds that are at an angle mean that it’s a slope rather than exactly horizontal? If so, then which side should you move to? 🥲 And which edge of the hold should you be perpendicular to? Apologies for demonstrating new levels of idiocy, sorry for asking you to explain so much! ❤

[@nilsp9426]

​@@talia-dp3si I basically meant leaning into holds. If your fingers are to the right of the hold, your shoulder is best to the left of it, so you can lean into it and apply maximum force without sliding off of it.

[@talia-dp3si]

@@nilsp9426 ah okay that makes so much sense! I was having a real issue with a route today and this would have probably made it much easier 🙈 Thank you so much for taking the time to explain it, I really appreciate that! ❤️

[@nekopunk]

This literally happened to me last Saturday 😂

[@gawth]

Letting the hands get too far ahead of the feet and ending up really stretched out

[@LatticeTraining]

Ah yes, this is a really good one! Well, bad mistake but good call 😉

[@MrCostantinho]

Guilty as charged

[@TrustinSimpson]

But tall beta is the best beta...

[@justanewjew]

God I do this all the time 😭 still learning!

[@G.I.Jack69]

Your point on setting the feet the first time is great and new for me. I just learned to do this with my hands: grab the hold correctly on first go instead of regripping

[@marcusperne1817]

My most common mistake still is: not trusting my abilitys. And when I was a beginner 6 years ago, I focused to much on reaching the top instead of trying to find the best technical and efficent moves for the boulder.

[@Riad_Hadjiev]

I had this mental block and it partially could be connected with high training volume and putting pressure under yourself. It also could be connected by comparing yourself with other climbers. I also mentioned that kids usually don’t have such issues , because they approach to the climbing process as the game

[@Steven-ro6os]

@@Riad_Hadjiev Too much pointless volume was a huge issue for me. Now that I started training smarter rather than harder, I've noticed my strength and technique improving much more rapidly.

[@TheValinov]

i always laugh when people think they climb *efficient* when they climb super staticly and overprecise. but as mentioned in tip number 2 locking off for example is absolutly not efficient. also the longer you climb the more you get pumped.

[@Steven-ro6os]

@@TheValinov Yea, true, but sometimes you also need the control from a lock-off to be able to stick a bad, or slopey hold without peeling off the wall.

[@marcusperne1817]

@@TheValinov In my opinion it is efficent to find the best working moves for the boulder and the intended beta. This ofc can be staticly or dynamicly done, but should always be as precise as possible. But i am with you and smiling while imaging ppl you described above. It can be funny watching them but ofc it depends on the climber your watching and what he/she actually is doing for real.

[@kweet13]

I feel so attacked by this video haha. The lock off and lazy leg is totally me! Thanks for showing alternatives and ways to work on this!

[@kamoke1]

I love sharing the straight arm tip with new climbers as it allows them to save energy and climb longer.

[@velunara]

The way you explained the second one really got through to me. Thanks!

[@hollywaller1265]

Great video, my mistake is I rely far too much on technique and static body position and don't train my strength or dynamic movement much. Ive done V6 on technical small hold boulders but still struggle with v3/4 strength and dynamic climbs and can't(won't) even do a v2 Dyno. Biggest breakthrough for me was being diagnosed with ADHD and starting medication, it calmed my brain down so not thinking of every way I could hurt myself and instead can focus on the climb!

[@devote]

Dynos evade me. I'm not a terrible jumper but to go off holds i just havent got the hang of at all.

[@TheChismFamily]

Nice video. I wanted to mention how important a strong core is for the last suggestion. In order to maintain that tension to make those flags effective your core is going to need to be engaged. If this is your weak area, you may find you still sag somewhat despite flagging, or are less able to push your weight close to the wall as you tire. Also, work on breathing with your core engaged, as newer climbers may hold their breath when holding tension. As a taller climber I struggle with these things. I am personally working on the front level progression exercises suggested by lattice, every day when I warm up.

[@fivetwoeighty7012]

Similar to the tappy foot - Regripping. Try to avoid constantly repositioning/fidgeting your grip while transitioning to the next move. Instead, grab the hold, readjust to the best grip if you're not already there, then STAY THERE while you reposition your feet and commit to the next move.

[@Jarom.M]

As was told to me when I first started in accordance to your second tip: Which do you think is a better climber: a T-rex or a monkey? My most common mistake? Forgetting to breathe. I have to keep reminding myself to exhale because the inhale will take care of itself.

[@chandanashilpa8249]

Golden! Simple advice that can make a world of difference... Thank you!

[@negarfarahbakhsh4890]

Thank you for the great video! I defiantly make all of these three mistakes. Next time I’ll watch out for them

[@benja_mint]

Nice topic! I'm hoping there is another one upcoming for intermediate boulders, e.g. V5 to V8

[@acasccseea4434]

i must really suck.... it took me 3 years to move past v4, these look like issues you'd have for the first half a year of climbing.... does everyone get to v5-8 territories within the first year or 2?!!

[@La0bouchere]

​@@acasccseea4434 No, getting stuck around V4 is what seems to happen to almost everyone. The only ones who go past that point quickly are: - People dedicated to training - People with backgrounds in other sports that have good carryover to climbing - Skinny teenagers/superlight adults that can get to V6/V7 without even looking at a hangboard Also v5-8 is way too wide of a category to be useful. Plenty of people who reach V5 will literally never even come close to V8.

[@donalddarko3676]

I would definately say V8 is advanced.

[@AsteaFrosty]

V5-V6 is usually where people start to plateau. I only know one person who got further than that in a year and he was bouldering 4 times a week the entire time. I also aim for 4 times a week but equal amounts boulder/rope. I got my first V5 within a year but could only do a select few V5. I did have a background in yoga and pole vaulting (as someone mentioned, experience in certain other sports can give a massive head start). By watching videos like these, you're also advancing your technique and training, so keep at it! :)

[@theopinson3851]

+1

[@smasher248]

As a light guy who can handle jugs without any leg effort; this was fantastic for me. I have wasted so much climb time on walls I could already do. I will use these methods for higher tier climbs.

[@nxtwomenfan497]

I'm definitely a beginner climber (I've bouldered maybe 7-8 times so far, and am maxing out on V1 routes) and have made every mistake pointed out in this video. I'm currently having a very difficult time learning the basics, because I'm 6'2" and very lanky to the point where I'm pretty much all limbs on the wall - and can't visualize beta either in advance or in mid-climb. Making moves like twisting and trying to push up with my legs only seems to get me further away from the wall, instead of further up the wall. At the same time, I don't want to give into the easy temptation to just rely on my height and arms to campus everything...because I do want to develop good technique. It's a frustrating place to be. But I really appreciate how your video attempts to explain everything, and I'll try to use these tips.

[@jorgealexandremoreira1792]

Great for begginners and old timers too. Thank you.

[@MikeOxlong70]

wow, great video. Short and very informative. I come from a Parkour background, but switch to bouldering now and then and i see myself doing the first 2 quite often. So i like that these were really things that could bring me forward instead of other more basic tips (like: use your feet or similar). The first one i do, because my background makes me used to fast, precice movements. I land quite a lot with my feet, but it is true i never really check them and it sometimes leads to hanging to long or falling off. The second one i do, becasue i have the strength to do it and the climb-up/dyno style is very common on normal walls you use in parkour. I appreciate the tip, becasue i feel that this overconfidence in my strength holds back my technique. The last one doesnt really apply to me, but i see many others in my "league" doing it.

[@LittleMur410]

I feel like this could've been two separate videos; there's a significant difference between a V0 climber and a V4 climber. It may be tricky to think up three suggestions for each group, but I think going V0-V4, V5-V8, V9-V12 are too wide a grouping to help the most people

[@EcoCurious]

Agreed. Once you start climbing V3-V4 you're no longer a complete beginner and should know about foot placement, straight arms, drop knee etc.

[@LatticeTraining]

Thanks Joe. The grades are not that important, just a vague guide and these mistakes will certainly capture more climbers in the V0-V1 bracket. However, it doesn't means climbers of a higher grade don't make these mistakes as well. We might still see very physically strong climbers getting up V5+ with some of these mistakes.

[@LittleMur410]

@@LatticeTraining yes, that’s totally fair. I’m just thinking a V0-V2 climber would be locking off too much, but also (in my experience) not be comfortable on straight arms enough to really try and be deliberate about their footwork and have the foot bounce or jabbing at holds be more about an inability to go down to three points of contact under control than a V3 or V4 climber which may not totally understand how much influence your footwork has on your ability to move or support your center of gravity. So even if they make similar mistakes, the reasoning is pretty fluid between smaller grade ranges. As always appreciate the content.

[@donalddarko3676]

Yeah I would probably say novice V0-V2 intermediate v3-v5 advanced v6-v9 expert v9+ Master v12+

[@demon5965]

@@EcoCurious I climb mostly v3 and v4 and didn't know about many of these

[@TheNitram8]

Thanks guys. I'd love a video dedicated to hips! How to use them shift the center of gravity... When to drop your butt to smear etc... I always stugle with that!

[@ggozem]

i've been climbing for around 3 months now and haven't done much bouldering (mainly top roping), but i'm trying to do more. I've got way better at watching my feet, but I definitely lock off and reach way too much! I think it's cos im scared of falling cos i don't feel very strong yet, so i feel like i have to pull in to the wall (but actually this makes my arms more tired so im probably more likely to fall anyway!) this video's really helpful tho, thanks! going climbing tonight so i'm gonna try some of these tips 🙌

[@FusionAdam]

The first two were certainly issues I have as a V2/3 climber. Definitely going to consider these more next time I'm in the gym.

[@g.r.i.t.and.g.r.a.c.e]

Great video! When I first started climbing, I would say I made all three of those mistakes!

[@rublehenderson7307]

Great video! I climb v5 and I’m definitely guilty of all three of these mistakes. Thanks for the insight!

[@RealWorldClimbing]

I love the term "Climbers Gaze"!!! For sure going to start using it.

[@jakubj2827]

wait this is the first video ive seen that's been filmed in the gym I got to! this has gotten me wirdly excited for some reason xD

[@jacobfunnell65]

Big mistakes I make (I climb V4 but not quite yet a V5 indoors/up to about 5c outdoors(lead)/6a+ indoors lead/6b+ (top rope indoors)). Over-doing flagging/backsteps etc and generally being a parody of that 90s video with Neil Gresham that we all oddly love. It means I sometimes miss the more efficient frontal move, especially when bouldering. Or I get out of sequence on lead. No flow. I can do a move but I have a lot of thinking time between moves on eg lead routes. Fumble clipping all the time. Please do a video of clipping from all different positions - high, low, when your right hand is tied up and you need to cross with your left across the plane of your body, when you're squeezed against the wall and it's at your hip, all the things. Not just comfortable chest height clipping like other videos. Fear of falling like all the time, especially on the first three clips when I'm convinced I'll deck when I clip. Comparing myself to others rather than myself. Not trusting my feet enough when the footholds feel sketchy. Did I mention fear of falling? Fear of falling bouldering slab edition. Big breakthroughs: that Magnus Mitbo vid where the English dude climbs a V5 with his arms literally taped straight in splints. I went to the gym and imagined the same thing applied to me and POOF alakazam I just did that long overhang by rolling my shoulders. Guys I'm in England fix my form on video for video content please thanx 😁 Or fix somebody else's I know there are other lower intermediates like me who like seeing a real lower intermediate climber get fixed.

[@LatticeTraining]

A lot to go at Jacob! Btw we have a fear of falling video coming out fairly soon ☺️

[@hanswoast7]

Not properly pausing between attempts is certainly a common thing.

[@vxnguye]

Useful video. Thanks.

[@grahamemacmullen7731]

Good video. In terms of weaknesses, probably fear of falling and fear of failing, to be completely honest! It would be interesting to hear something about the psychology of that and how good climbers think about their thinking - if that makes sense?

[@lukegraham2881]

What I had to do, was climb a partway up a route and purposely fall off. Then I increased the height and so on until I felt comfortable falling from the top. It is very important to learn how to fall safely, it comes with practice! You can still be injured from a 3 ft fall if you land wrong.

[@YnseSchaap]

The mistake I still make after 25 years is being too hasty on a move 😁

[@Yakushii]

Twisting the hip into the wall was a breakthrough for me. I had seen it a lot, and tried to imitate, but when it finally clicked, it started coming naturally. I think it's the idea that if you twist your hip into the wall, you can put more weight on the footholds, so you get more time to grab a new hand hold.

[@thomasstegen3507]

Also, it stops your knee from pushing you away from the wall.

[@tinovelez6601]

It also gives you more reach. Such an important technique for beginners

[@TheValinov]

but it also needs more finger- and wrist mucles which you dont have as a beginner. not even mentioning that the small foot muscles isnt strong enough at first. i guess its a naturelly process to get to that point after climbing for a while, beacuse you werent able to climb like that before.

[@tomohawk7203]

I started with enough strength to campus a 5- everyone’s different bro

[@svenningen]

I turn off my brain on easier climbs sometimes and it just negates value and turns it into junk mileage, instead of me actively improving my footwork (or other aspects of climbing)

[@mrhaandi]

But a lock off stemming from a dubious foot placement is the best tool to show off your biceps. There is little alternative.

[@LatticeTraining]

Lock offs are a great way to show of biceps, great point!

[@kamron_thurmond]

Stalling or swinging more than once before going to the next hold which increases the amount of time spent on the wall.

[@mijah139]

I think my biggest mistake is throwing technique out the window when im getting really pumped in the last few moves of a route or problem

[@axeus2008]

slightly unrelated, but i feel a finger strength video for young climbers may be helpful, since a lot of methods used by 18+ climbers (such as the fingerboard) young climbers cant do due to undeveloped fingers (at least to my knowledge) so something about what we can do to develop fingers or if we should actively develop our fingers separate from climbing at all and things to avoid when climbing/training

[@LatticeTraining]

Interesting point. Fingerboarding for young climbers still seems to be a contentious topic and it will always remain an 'it depends' answer. For example we now have 15 year old athletes climbing 9a sport routes. These elite youth athletes make explosive movements between poor hand holds in training and performance so its perfectly reasonable for these athletes to train on a fingerboard safely where the loading carefully controlled and monitored. If anything it is far safer than climbing. We just need to manage the training load carefully alongside everything else. It's important to remember youth athletes can get carried away as they have lots of energy and motivation, so it's best to work with a coach. For other youth climbers it might not be appropriate if their time and training load is best spent in skill based practice.

[@axeus2008]

@@LatticeTraining thank you, that makes a lot of sense

[@sean6387]

For me, the psychological aspects are just as important as the physical dimension. Dealing openly with feelings of failure, inadequacy and frustration, especially in some beginners can keep them in the sport. Like all activities, if you give up, you definitely can't progress.

[@ST-vt4nu]

It's so true that repeated failure can make you quit. When I first started climbing I was toproping at my uni, where even the easiest routes (4a) became so stretched out towards the end that as a short person I would have to dino these high up moves after having been on the wall for a while and not having that confidence or ability yet. This meant I was never able to finish any of the climbs and that, in combination with a knee issue that was causing a lot of pain after climbing made me quit. I recently went bouldering with a friend and there I was able to do a lot of boulders and even flash a 5a+. It gives you so much more confidence and motivated me to get into it again!

[@richardclark6251]

Do you have or could you do a video on how to read the first holds so you know how to position yourself to start. I look at some holds on the wall and can’t even figure where I need to be to start climbing.

[@LatticeTraining]

We don't have a video but this is a good idea. We've had a similar comment about body positioning, sinking low and 'direction of pull' which plays a lot into what you are describing. I feel like a Pt. 2 would be useful.

[@richardclark6251]

@@LatticeTraining if you could give me some pointers it would be helpful. I’ve only been climbing for 4 months and that’s my biggest stumbling block. I have looked for videos but can’t seem to find any

[@danwallis1984]

@@richardclark6251 Sometimes it is really good to ask someone nearby. Especially if you are on your own. Asking other climbers for advice can be invaluable to new climbers and you get to make friends too.

[@richardclark6251]

@@danwallis1984 I’m getting more confident on asking for help just sometimes feel a bit daft when I can’t even start!

[@danwallis1984]

@@richardclark6251 everyone starts somewhere. I know I've talked to people when i couldn't do exactly the same thing. Trying a harder grade, sometimes its a great help. So your not alone. Mostly other climbers are friendly 😀 Don't feel too self conscious, we're all in it together.

[@steffanisorensen7133]

ive been bouldering 4 times now and im at..v3-5 stuff. im finding that the advice to have straight arms and to use my feet first helped a huge amount. but im struggling with smaller holds and crimps. i think its an upper body strenght thing now rather than technique ?

[@LatticeTraining]

You will build strength through just climbing at this stage. Keep focusing on technique and you'll still be able to climb harder routes. Be patient with your progress. If you've only had 4 sessions I would almost guarantee that technique is the biggest limiting factor in your ability to climb harder boulders.

[@Eric0728]

Since you guys test pro climbers, I was wondering if you could check their hand shape. I have a really short pinky compared to the rest of my gingers, so it's hard to exert force through it. I wonder if people with more even fingers can pull harder.

[@travislayes6024]

Climbing, Science!!

[@lukeaal6129]

What climbing shoes are you wearing in this video?

[@LatticeTraining]

NewTro Lace :)

[@thesii213]

Sorry guys, another shoe question! Any idea on the width on the NewTro Lace? I've been looking at that same model... also curious that it uses one of the hardest rubbers available on the market today!

[@LatticeTraining]

I can only comment for my own experience but they fit amazingly and my feet are fairly standard (not too wide or narrow)

[@thesii213]

@@LatticeTraining Thanks! Also excellent video! I'm just getting back into things after not doing much in the pandemic, and focusing on foot placement is key.

[@jackmeyer8763]

What shoes were you rocking in this video??

[@LatticeTraining]

NewTro Lace ☺️

[@charlessamson7668]

Sweet shoes Josh, what are they?

[@LatticeTraining]

NewTro Lace, they are my favourite shoe by Unparallel 😊

[@NatSmish]

Hello! Does anyone know what pants he's wearing? They look nice!

[@that_one_momo_guy]

My most common problems I think are: not giving myself enough rest time between attempts, not having coordination for dynamic moves and reading moves on overhung routes

[@LatticeTraining]

All great points! Thanks Felipe

[@thenayancat8802]

Up to v4 is beginner? Well f me, still a beginner after 2 years I guess

[@TheChismFamily]

Dont worry about it, my gym grades super hard too and I am also at V4 but after 4 years! I have only been bouldering for 6 months though, I only climbed on ropes before.

[@sofiatruta2]

Same here! Climbing for 3 years, stuck at V3! Not a beginner anymore, not intermediate either 🤣 just not good enough I guess!! 😭

[@JoshuaTootell]

Well, I am V4 in the gym (only V5's were non technical, endurance ones). Went to Joshua Tree Sunday, spent most of my time failing V0's.

[@ttaker4850]

What shoes are you wearing mate?

[@LatticeTraining]

NewTro Lace ☺️

[@asedutaru7647]

omg I do them all

[@chrisb4003]

I just left the depot 10 mins ago

[@mandyrey7122]

WHERE IS TOM?

[@LatticeTraining]

He's around and should be making an appearance soon!

[@qwertyuiop8836]

What pants is he wearing?

[@LatticeTraining]

Moon Samurai :)