Vertical vs Overhang - How to Climb on Different Terrain

[@chrisp524]

Finally, someone that explains the important things in fine detail instead of copying notes from other videos.

[@maddog8271]

I'm a pretty novice climber, but I definitely noticed the difference between slow, precise movement in vertical climbing and explosive, quick-paced overhang climbing. When climbing overhangs I wouldn't be able to finish; not that I didn't know how to, but rather that I was so tired from climbing slowly when having a quicker pace would've helped.

[@deadnemesis6784]

This is exactly what I am looking for regarding climbing physics videos. I've been bouldering for about 8 months now, I consistently do 8 hours a week. I love watching your videos and understanding why certain movements are better rather than just guessing based off past experiences. Keep it up dude!

[@ClassyChed]

i'm curious with your amount of time spent bouldering, and the fact that it's been 2 years what are you climbing at now?

[@deadnemesis6784]

@@ClassyChed I'm sorry to say that the gym I went to was shut for a year because of Covid. During which I focussed on my cardio more than strength. When I went back I'd lost most of my power but the technique was still there. I decided to quit going regularly for the time being while I focus on my other sports which I got better at whilst everything was shut 😄 I still go once or twice a month though! My climbing peaked at around 6c-/+ though. I do miss it and hope to get back and better!

[@ralphmunn6689]

I've seen this in SO many climbers who pull hard and reel in some big numbers: they often do the right thing, but more instinctively than systematically. And their understanding of WHY something which works for them works is often a bit off. This leads to misapplying techniques because their understanding isn't "global" or fundamental, but specific. Two examples of this came immediately to mind as I watched this video. The first, your admonition to climb vertical walls frontally, had you leaving your back foot behind on long moves and using awkwardly placed holds rather than putting your driver (non-support foot) where it needed to be to make your legs do the work. The FUNDAMENTAL here is differentiating between you feet as "supports" or "drivers." This distinction leads to the conclusion that your SUPPORT foot needs a foothold, while your DRIVER serves you better by being placed where it needs to be, rather than where a random hold is placed. Second, and again this pertains particularly to your slab technique, your entire approach seems geared toward pulling with your arms, rather than pushing with them. Reaching down and PUSHING on the side where you're bringing up your lower foot will keep you from dragging your feet, or "tap dancing," as it's known, and allow one to do double-leg stand-ups rather than the very strenuous single-leg moves which you were doing. Just a couple thoughts from a veteran.

[@movementforclimbers]

Appreciate the feedback! I admit the crimpy yellow V6 vert problem in this video was definitely not my cleanest beta. I'll keep your points in mind next time I'm on the wall. Thanks for sharing your observations.

[@TheGirlClimber]

Love your technique breakdowns! So in depth and practical! I especially love the bit about smearing, I'm still working on my slab footwork technique! Keep these amazing videos coming 🙏👏

[@mrthirty1139]

Nice video man, some good tips for improving technique. There is one statement that is not theoretically correct though, at 2:05 you say that more contact area provides more friction, this is a common misconception. The relationship between surface area and the friction force is offset by the fact that with more surface area, there is less pressure generated between the surfaces. So friction is in fact independent of surface area, however in practice I believe that using a larger surface area has the benefit of providing a better average of the rubber surface (when using a small section of the sole, you have a greater chance of using a spot that is dusty/dirty with less friction). Nevermind me anyhow, I'm just being pedantic! (Edit: I should probably stress that this is completely theoretical and is a more suitable model for standard surfaces. As people have replied below, the deformation of the rubber sole will play a large part in the equation. Perhaps this is the reason that, in reality, we find a larger surface area is better for smearing)

[@rangerroor]

But you generally want your heel lower on a smear and that translates to more of the sole on the hold. It's also one of the ways you climb palm trees! All semantics and no pragmatics!

[@iCavity]

Wow, I was literally just about to make a comment about this! Well said Mr Thirty! I also think it's also hard to keep the higher pressure needed when on your toe to have an equivalent friction force that was created when using a larger surface area of your foot when smearing.

[@alexfox1226]

>I believe that using a larger surface area has the benefit of providing a better average of the rubber surface (when using a small section of the sole, you have a greater chance of using a spot that is dusty/dirty with less friction) The main reason is that with less *pressure* on the shoe rubber, the rubber wont deform to such an extreme and won't skitter off of a hold.

[@pstenzel6841]

That's interesting to hear! But to the mentioned factors from the previous commentators, to concentrate the pressure on a smaller point is probably more painful

[@ralphmunn6689]

Mr. Thirty is entirely correct. More surface contact DOESN'T necessarily increase the upward component of frictional force; the more important consideration os "attack," the angle of incidence of the applied force to the load-bearing surface. An orthogonal attack is ideal; lowering the heel only achieves this through body position, which needs to be farther from the wall. Yeah, I know, "weight over your feet, blah blah blah..." that means pushing essentially straight down, which is NOT the technique necessary for success on smears.

[@schmetterling2169]

Im a climbing coach and I'm so glad you made a concise video on such a broad range, usually I have to have several sessions to get a students footwork proper and build their intuition to make their own judgement calls like weather to use inside or outside edge on a dihedral problem. A great guide to referance and made my job a whole heck of a lot easier!

[@EveryoneHarmonyPeace]

I SAW THE

[@guavacupcake]

That was so sweet!

[@alexbarcovsky4319]

I would add to this an advice for lead climbing although it isnt really necessary in bouldering. On vertical, you rest on your feet, on hard problems you can usually use your biceps and back to stick yourself to the wall and allow for some rest. In overhang, you rest on your skeleton, meaning you hold onto the best jug you can find and just lie down into it, depressing your shoulders and ideally jamming your foot somewhere, usually using heelhooks or the pointy frontt of your climbing shoe. This way, your muscles dont waste that expensive energy you need. This advice doesnt come up in bouldering videos, because you dont really need resting in bouldering, but it can sometimes help too. Of course if you can find a jug on vertical, rest like you normally would, scapula depressed and feet in a squatted stance, but there aint many jugs when you get past 7C/8A on slabs, and its good to adopt this technique before you encounter slabs without good jug rests.

[@Lorax_Tribe]

Thank you for that demo! V3, V4 climber and I've been focusing on bouldering the last few trips. This is going to improve my overhang climbing for sure. I wrote a synopsis and I'll take a photo of it before I go to the gym this week.

[@AzureShadow88]

Thanks for the clear vid, I've been having trouble with overhangs since I started climbing and any help is always welcome!

[@Bloxeh]

I'm fairly new to climbing overhangs. I'm a small, slightly overweight female with largely untrained upper body strength - I can't do one pull up, not even close. So overhangs are incredibly hard for me, but I made a lot of progress by training flagging. If the wall allows good flagging (no edge) I can manage overhang climbs with good holds. Flagging allowed me to bring in my lower body strength, which I really need to accomplish anything. I push hard through my feet when flagging. My inferior frame forces me to learn technique, which is probably not a bad thing. Almost all males in my climbing group depend on their upper body strength when climbing overhangs. I hope that when I finally lose the rest of unnecessary weight, that I come out of it with at least good technique and hopefully good grip strength. :) All the best! TLDR: Train flagging, if you haven't already. Very helpful :).

[@Zayaxa]

This was super thorough and well explained, thanks! I'm bad at overhangs but I'm about to head to the bouldering wall with notes I took from your explanations, and hopefully it'll pay off on the project I've been failing miserably on for weeks.

[@movementforclimbers]

Go get it! I believe in you :-)

[@sarallwilliams]

Just came accross this. Great video. Going to try a few of the overhang techniques tonight. But question: Did anyone esle pause and rewind at 4:18 because they thought the heart was actually something to do with the instructions. Lol #Imanidiot

[@mustangthings]

Great video. I’m a pretty solid vertical/slab climber but the slow, precise movements I use on those routes translates very poorly on overhangs. These tips are very helpful!

[@illduitmyself]

"always move from a position of comfort" soooo il stop climbing lol

[@movementforclimbers]

As I start climbing harder grades I realize how naive my statement sounds lol.

[@nau5376]

@@movementforclimbers 🤣

[@Carllizard]

Lmao

[@Phoenixhunter157]

😂😂😂😂😂😂

[@BetaBreaker]

Best comment ever

[@Sharethelightnow]

I just started climbing at pipeworks and your videos have been very helpful. Thanks

[@montagnevelo1]

Most useful and clear video out of the 100 last ones I assisted over various climbing account lately, good job!

[@daiquiri.]

Wow this is some amazing quality teaching and detailed info! way above most climbing tutorial vids I've seen so far. Makes me want to rewatch multiple times to take notes. If you keep creating videos of this quality, you should have a ton of success on youtube.

[@iamthekwan]

Thanks, that last bit really helps. I'm still new somewhat, and am trying to focus more on good form. Climbing vertically allows me the luxury of time, comfort, and slow precise movement, but I can't get much progress on overhangs for the exact same reason that I spend too much time thinking and finding that perfect position that I fall off very quickly once I'm out of strength. Now I understand that overhangs aren't meant for that kinda slow movement so I'll focus more on reading the route beforehand and trying to go quicker on overhangs.

[@javiergonzalez-qd3tt]

Perfect videos, straight to the point and clear in every way, please keep uploading videos like this

[@endTHEhegemony_Today]

This is gold! I was looking for this kind of video today! Thanks for your straightforward teaching style and for all the filming you did to get those demonstrations! Great stuff 🤙

[@thebearded4427]

This is such an underrated channel! Awesome content!

[@ejl74]

You seriously teach so well! I hear your tips in my head when I climb. 🙏🏻

[@tiffanylung2941]

this was so helpful! my boyfriend and i started climbing a month ago and this was by far my fav video that we're binge watching to improve!!! we're only at v2s v3s but hopefully we will improve fast :)

[@Anna-fc5pk]

That’s already very fast improvement!! I took much longer than that to start getting 2s and 3s Very impressive

[@KarimMedjahedSchwethelm]

great video, just getting into climbing and you have the most informative videos from anyone ive seen

[@estherkim2425]

Oh my gosh I wish I’d seen this video when I was working that yellow 6 overhang!! I totally got stuck on that crossover move

[@mandisaeteun9251]

Leave my thuggy power moves alone lol

[@canyonmccallister1869]

Your overhang climbing looked very precise lol. Great vid!

[@endTHEhegemony_Today]

I keep coming back to this vid for the music in the 2D vertical climb section alone. Great tips, I send this vid and the first rule of climbing to everyone I boulder with! Thanks for helping us all put the

[@dgiroday1]

This fellow is an amazing instructor!

[@alexchao2330]

Your videos are really helpful and detailed!

[@deez_gainz]

Man your lessons are gold, keep up, huge thanks!

[@brandongarver5755]

Anyone else catch that sweet kiss cam at 4:20? That was some wholesome PDA.

[@wattstowheels]

Can't wait to be a beast again on overhang. Gotta come climb at pipeworks with you soon

[@kerotan2444]

I injured my knee, so I will study to climb better when I return. Very good video

[@devinshook3289]

Very helpful, thank you. I suck at anything overhanging, im going to try outside edge foot work next time. It is funny I can climb a whole grade better on slab. Not sure why.

[@Sinfaroth]

This pretty much sums up my problems with overhangs. I am really bad at commiting and dynamic flowing boulders if I don't know them by heart. I run out of energy so quickly in overhangs.

[@strgrlcrwy]

This is sooooooo informative and should be really helpful! Thanks so much!

[@williamt4629]

Just watched this again Even better 2nd time round Thanks again

[@deltacodealpha]

Yuu are killing it bro. thx for great advise and content

[@JaimeHomusic]

Your video is so amazing! Thank you for sharing bouldering tips

[@richardmead4272]

Great video! It helps me as a newbie

[@infamoustatic]

Hey bro, I didnt know you made a youtube climbing account, nice!

[@jonkrause6714]

Nice overall video. Miss Sacramento Pipeworks-moved back to So Cal, but good climbing there, too. 🤘

[@AamirTime]

I hope to one day be able to climb overhangs. Thank you.

[@richardparke4105]

Re: Climbing on smears. Friction has absolutely NOTHING to do with surface area. You will get more friction with the wall the more of your force is pushing horizontally against the wall (versus vertically down). Hence why pushing down on the tip of your toes has less friction than pushing against the wall with more of your foot.

[@moogoomadness]

Richard Parke Was going to say the same thing. This is an important distinction and can really help with practicing your footwork.

[@screew708]

This isn't highschool physics. Surface area does matter because the friction of rubber depends on the load.

[@atlasbailly5439]

@@screew708 Yes. Load. Not surface area. You disagreed with yourself.

[@ArjenSingels]

Another great video!

[@KungFoo1]

Awesome video and channel. I had a question. Is it sub optimal to step through and use the outside edge on a vertical wall? Thinking on big holds, where it’s more than your toe going onto the hold.

[@andy0ne310]

Thanks for the tips mate! Good luck. 🙂

[@emilyrussell9533]

Excellent video!

[@Keviensche]

Thanks for that video 👌😊

[@totheair247]

Super good video!

[@ZhousiChen-h8p]

Really enjoyed this channel! thx!

[@xaq_01_02]

this video is so good

[@phillspearsfish]

Love your channel!

[@vadusoft1578]

❤ 4:18

[@alexnunez4019]

Great video. Thanks a lot

[@neonseacow]

can you talk about your choice for gym training shoes?

[@Ewert99]

Great advice! thanks

[@BotifarraBarata]

Nice video!! Keep working on this channel, I see a lot of potential!!

[@playwaters]

Awesome video! Thanks

[@alexvat1995]

Great channel

[@keyvanjaferzadeh2866]

Good video.

[@maria_hadar]

Great explanations as always 👏

[@janzimmermann5861]

This is brilliant

[@zachyang1041]

Saw the heart at 4:19, haha.

[@michaelcavan1524]

What shoes are you using? 😀

[@IFELL100]

I like the cheeky kiss in the background when the couple is watching you..

[@landonlee5615]

Do you climb at Pipeworks Sacramento? it looks so much like that gym...

[@majaignaczewska7482]

what is the brand name of your climbing shoe?

[@languagefreeassangeteacher5338]

Interesting - thank you :)

[@AnabraHUN]

On your point about smearing: "the more surface area, the more friction", is not white right. Friction is independent of surface area. It only depends on the force perpendicular to the surface and the materials. The "for smearing" you mentioned slips not because of the surface area, but because the force is not applied directly against the wall. So as long as you push right against the surface strongly enough and wearing good shoes, you should be good 🙂

[@super9_55]

5:00 casually dropped game references

[@bhoentoe]

Finally no bull shit climbing channel i love it

[@florianbar873]

Is it safe to say if you want to climb vertical better work on flexibility/mobility and to climb overhang better to work on strength/power in your training? I have a calisthenics background and consider myself strong. Overhang climbing feels more natural for me. When it comes to vertical I feel like my lack of flexibility and tightness prevents me from climbing it as well.

[@JJustJ-yb9wh]

That's true, but it's not the main focus; I feel. You certainly need more power in overhangs but technique is always going to win out against pure power; it's about finding the right balance between the two

[@justzorz]

What shoes is he using?

[@fufumccuddlypoops5502]

Climbing shoes

[@danielsousa3722]

@4:18 😂

[@kailangley975]

where is this gym at

[@raphaelzilberfenig8065]

Man how tall are the walls in that gym? I wish my gym would have walls this tall...

[@lucassalmrojo]

1:04 dab. sorry I just had to point it out. good video though

[@davidb8119]

smoochies @4:17

[@nickkane8690]

Damn man looks like you're pretty high up without a harness on some of those. Have you ever fallen from a distance that far?

[@nickkane8690]

I guess. Looks like the top is like 20 feet though. I'd rather not fall from there straight on my back

[@craigsherrill7070]

what shoes are those?

[@movementforclimbers]

Those are Five Ten Moccasyms. Great slip on shoe for the gym. Good toe for technical climbs and good rubber for smears. Does not heel hook well however (shoe can come off).

[@alanzhan4436]

old school moccs

[@austinbaker2323]

Cool video but your understanding of friction is flawed. Friction is a function of material and normal force, not surface area. You’re still right that it’s easier to get more friction with a flat foot on the surface though! Makes sense that we can generate more force with the bottom of our foot then the tip of our toe.

[@AnnaKwonda]

Love the little heart that appears when the girl sitting down kisses her beau. So cute :3

[@atlasbailly5439]

Funny enough, friction is independent of surface area. I wonder why more surface area helps here

[@tommykelly6691]

Nice video. Can you make a video on shirt vs no shirt when climbing?

[@jim131370]

1:03 HE CHEATED !!! he stepped on a red one

[@kangdanlin]

so many people climb yet so little information about climbing movement

[@Fry3211]

Question tho, what’s your workout routine my guy? 😂

[@movementforclimbers]

It's been changing a lot the more I've gotten into climbing. When I was at my strongest, I was doing gymnastic rings conditioning twice a week, weightlifting for legs once a week, and plyometrics for legs once a week.

[@1nf3ct3dTT]

those shoulders jesus christ dude

[@jasonlovi8745]

I can climb bricks all day, slabs and overhangs are tough.

[@ara945]

I want to climb so bad now XD

[@formerlypie8781]

Sorry I just have to say this because it's my number one physics pet peeve, but the force of friction does not depend on the surface area

[@Sunny-zk3mx]

why's he always shirtless in public gyms

[@aprildanae7487]

If I worked that hard and looked that good I’d be shirtless too lol.

[@456123789456]

wear a shirt

[@KungFoo1]

Awesome video and channel. I had a question. Is it sub optimal to step through and use the outside edge on a vertical wall? Thinking on big holds, where it’s more than your toe going onto the hold.