Toro Power Clear 721 E 721 R Won't Start Surges Carburetor Cleaning and Repair

[@grammardad]

One of the best- if not the best- detailed explanations of the carb cleaning process on KZbin.

[@IndRepair]

Thank you!

[@LIKEART1]

Just took my Toro apart n follow your instructions it is running like new I can't thank u enough what a amazing feeling to Diy n be successful ty.

[@IndRepair]

Awesome! Great Job!!! Thanks for watching!

[@lennyblue4u]

I called the repair center and asked how much to fix my toro. He said about $100 and he would probably just clean the carburetor. He said a new carb cost was $85 plus $100. I bought a $18 carb in amazon, watched your video and fixed it myself. Where can I send you a gift?

[@IndRepair]

Awesome job! Thanks for watching! If you want to send a gift you can do it above with a super thanks through KZbin or send through PayPal at www.paypal.me/indrepair

[@joemusicman64]

This was very useful to figure out how to get to my throttle return spring which i think broke or became disconnected. I looked at another video and it showed 28 fasteners that had to be removed. Yours showed about 12 if you include removing and re-installing the gas cap. Awesome.

[@IndRepair]

Seemed to be the easiest to me after working on 100's of them. Always saved a bunch of time. Thanks for watching!!

[@scottl8373]

Top notch tutorial! Followed the video all the way through step-by-step fired right up run running like a champ! Thanks

[@IndRepair]

Nice work! Glad to help!!

[@davek4139]

Great video, this is perfect as I have to clean the exact carb tomorrow. thank you

[@IndRepair]

Awesome! Thanks for watching!

[@ghoumaanis5292]

Bought this for my small back deck in the Eastern Sierra. kzbin.infoUgkxoHYZbq5g9fkcAtinlTqstNlje-UQkCHN We get A LOT of HEAVY snow so I was a bit skeptical but it was worth it! After the first storm of the year this has exceeded expectations! It throws snow very well, even 10-12” + that said the more it piles up the harder it is to maneuver the machine. It is exceptionally light weight and overall exactly what I was looking for. If you have a large amount of snow and a lot of area to clear, you may consider something with a drive engine to help maneuverability, but for decks, second stories, roofs etc, you can’t beat the light weight to great snow throwing ratio. Side note, the chute rotator is a bit flimsy and it initially didn’t seem to work, after a few uses it seems to have loosened up.

[@IndRepair]

Thanks for watching!

[@trh4982]

Why did I pay a professional to change mine for $400 Cad 2 years ago, when i just used this video today and saved my 100's!!? Thanks for the easy tutorial!!!

[@IndRepair]

I have heard that before!! Thanks for watching I am glad to help!

[@kensmith9334]

A great detailed video on the 721 Toro! Great job! :)

[@IndRepair]

Thanks for watching!

[@torontoguy8043]

thank you from Ontario Canada. super helpful

[@IndRepair]

Glad to help! Thanks for watching!

[@donnie2914]

Thank you for making such a useful well done video to help others!

[@IndRepair]

Glad to help! Thanks for watching!

[@MrOzzyosborne88]

Thank you. You saved my butt. i had alot of properties to do today. watch your video and it runs perfect

[@IndRepair]

Glad to help! Like and subscribe if you would! Thanks for watching!

[@MrOzzyosborne88]

@@IndRepair Already did🤟

[@tjm6753]

@@IndRepair where are you located? need to bring my snow blower to your shop.

[@craig1974]

I have a Toro 421QE Power Clear which is the same exact machine with the same carb , but different engine displacement. I just replaced the carb with a Chinese knockoff from Ebay instead of cleaning it. Video was kind of intimidating with all the work involved, but the job ended up to be not bad. You just need to have patience. I removed the black plastic exhaust schield to have better access to the bottom panel clasp on that side. Plus i had to back out the idle screw to pull the governor link out of the carb. My engine ran ok with the old carb, but lost RPM's when the choke was fully opened along with slight minor surging. Considering this machine was bought from an estate as a potential flip i felt uneasy selling it running like that. Now it runs awesome.

[@IndRepair]

Great job!! Thanks for your comment and for watching!

[@chuckh5031]

Thank you for the real life video, good info and very clear .

[@IndRepair]

Glad to help! Thanks for watching!

[@stephenlanigan5597]

Thank you merry Christmas. Happy new year. God bless.

[@IndRepair]

Merry Christmas! Thanks for watching!

[@bergiee2]

Excellent video FR … thank you so much!

[@IndRepair]

Thanks for watching!

[@mario_intravino]

Great Video !!!! A lot of good information.

[@IndRepair]

Appreciate that! Thanks for watching!

[@raykrv6a]

I have a 621 QZE and had to clean the carb. The covers suck and I just took off the chute and top cover. Good video, I forgot to connect the key switch. Ok, I'm a dummy.

[@IndRepair]

Happens to the best of us! Top cover is a pain, it and the chute can be taken off but I find it easier not to with the right angle method. Thanks for watching!

[@jaysmith201]

Thanks for the info! Seems Toro has made their machines more complicated and difficult to maintain. The amount of disassembly required for this is comparatively ridiculous.

[@IndRepair]

This is definitely one of the hardest to get to. Some people take off the chute and top cover also. It really is a pain! Thanks for watching!

[@leewarren]

Cleaning, tear down and rebuilding the carb doesn’t bother me at all. Getting TO the carb looks like a (frustrating) bear … Having said that, this is an excellent, detailed video. Thank you!

[@IndRepair]

Definitely is! Thank you!

[@akbaxb165]

Thank very much for the video. Pretty thorough and well explained. One question though: does the carburetor has a rubber float valve needle seat? Thanks in advance.

[@IndRepair]

The rubber is on the tip of the needle that seats to brass pressed into the carburetor

[@kerrickjustin82]

When I push my choke in, the engine sounds like it's going to blow up. It is very loud when I push in the choke. What seems to be the problem? Thanks in advance.

[@IndRepair]

Could be an intake gasket leak between the carburetor and engine or the throttle plate is stuck wide open

[@hopdinh8559]

Thanks very much for your video

[@IndRepair]

Glad to help! Thanks for watching!

[@santobarbagiovanni6948]

Ok first off thank you for the video extremely helpful! So after I replaced the carb engine runs great but very high idle when I push choke in any ideas? Also new carb came with a plastic piece that went in between the engine and carb it had a gasket already on so I just installed it I'm thinking I should've put a gasket on the carb side on to of gasket on plastic?

[@IndRepair]

You could have an air leak (at either of the gaskets between carburetor and engine) or the throttle linkage or plate may be getting stuck on something. First make sure the linkage is in the carburetor like it should be, sometimes they pop out. Next inspect gaskets, there should be one on both sides of that plastic adapter. The original gasket there may be letting in some air. If it still looks good you can double it up otherwise get it all off of the block and start fresh. Thanks for watching!

[@scotta8744]

Great video thanks for making it. The Pilot Jet on top I was wondering what size micro drill bit you used.

[@IndRepair]

I am honestly not sure which I used on this. I start with the smallest I can without having to force it too much and work my way up if needed in normal instances. Thanks for watching!

[@ezegqfouru2018]

Now to the shop have them put it all back together again.

[@IndRepair]

It's easy enough of a process to get it fixed up. Thanks for watching!

[@RonJ-en7in]

I'm wondering if there's a version of this carb where there is no emulsion tube to take out? I have a 621 qze and when I removed the main jet, nothing else came out. I can see something brass down in the hole but can't get it to move or come out of the hole. As if it's pressed in there. Do those emulsion tubes ever get stuck inside? Mine was surging when the choke was fully off and it looked like the primary was plugged. I ran wire in and out and tried to clean everything real good and it runs fine now. But that emulsion tube had me stumped. Thanks!

[@IndRepair]

They sure do get stuck sometimes! Normally if they are stuck you have to pry through the choke area and push emulsion tube from the inside down through. Usually it gets stuck again there so using carburetor cleaner push it back up where you originally pried from and keep repeating until it gets freed up. They are very difficult sometimes and others they come right out. If it is running correctly I wouldn't worry about it. Thanks for watching!

[@RonJ-en7in]

@@IndRepair Thanks for the info! I'll remember to pop it out the next time I need to take the carb off. The air box was sort of a pain to remove, so I guess if it ain't broke, don't fix it. 😁

[@IndRepair]

Definitely!!

[@dbmn7571]

I own a 621qzr with exactly the same housing. I remove the shoot and top cover and the entire engine, carb gas tank, and hoses are exposed. It takes less time with some experience.

[@IndRepair]

Thanks for you input! I've done it this way for a long time after dealing with the bolts being badly rusted/seized on both the chute and front housing on many units. Not worth the time dealing with in my opinion, but on some newer units this may be possible without any extra hassle. Thanks for watching!

[@dbmn7571]

@@IndRepair Design engineers should have to work on the machines they design. I'd guess they don't when it takes 10 minutes to get to the carburetor. 😂😂

[@IndRepair]

Definitely so! They don't make it easy on us!

[@akbaxb165]

Sir, I would appreciate if you would please help me out on my situation. I just replaced the carburetor on my CCR 721e (2016 model # 38742 with a 212cc engine) with a new one as my old carb was leaking gas into the crankcase. I want to measure the engine's idling and fast speed rpm. I used a made-in-China tachometer ($10) to measure the rpm. I wrapped its wiring about 4 times around the spark plug after setting the tachometer at 02 (spark plug fires once per revolution). The idling speed per tachometer appears to hover about 1800 rpm, which I am assuming to be correct. My question is: how do I measure the engine's high speed rpm, which according to Toro is supposed to 3700 rpm (+-100) with no-load? Am I supposed to bring manually the governor arm close to the idling screw to measure the high rpm on my tachometer, or is there another way to measure the rpm? I would like to verify and/or adjust the high rpm, if needed, by turning in or turning out the screw on the speed control lever. Your guidance and help is much appreciated. Thank you very much.

[@IndRepair]

Hello there on this unit you should never be running at an idle speed. The unit is set up to run high speed the entire time it is running. There is an adjustment screw that sits just to the left of the fuel tank to control the RPM. I would ensure that the governor linkage has been hooked up correctly and that there is nothing stopping the throttle plate or linkage from moving if your only running 1800rpm

[@akbaxb165]

@@IndRepair Thanks very much for your quick reply. That should make it much easier for me then. I will check out the linkage and the carburetor throttle plate. But what puzzles me though is that when I screw in the idle speed screw (plastic one) with 5 or more threads sticking out at the other end, it does appear to affect the rpm (idling rpm?). The other possibility I am wondering is that may be my tachometer is should be set at 01(spark plug fires twice per revolution).

[@akbaxb165]

@@IndRepair Thanks very much for your help. By setting the tachometer at 03, the rpm # was measured at 3600, close to the recommended setting of 3700 rpm, therefore not requiring any adjustment via the throttle control screw. I had initially incorrectly set the tachometer at 02 setting which gave me 1/2 of 3600 or 1800. Your pointing out that " The unit was set up to run high speed the entire time.." helped me in the right direction. Thanks again. Kind regards. Ash

[@IndRepair]

Awesome! Good job!

[@kenmenezes7499]

My snow blower would not start, changed fuel, added fuel stabilizer but the real issue was replacing the spark plug.

[@IndRepair]

Was it a Torch spark plug by chance? They have issue regularly. Thanks for watching!

[@ryiangou]

Had a 721R with similar problem... cleaned per video instructions but little improvement...then replaced the entire carburetor with a Chinese one from Amazon along with new gaskets and it was actually surging worse... replaced fuel filter and spark plug but still as bad... and I ONLY use premium NO ETHANOL gas (2 weeks old) .. what else could be wrong

[@IndRepair]

Plastic adapter cracked or not flat? Only real answer, was the replacement cleaned before installation? See our video on this!

[@ryiangou]

@@IndRepair The replacement carburetor was brand new and I did not pull it apart for any cleaning...the two gaskets were OEM Toro from their carburetor repair kit ... when I tried cleaning the original carburetor I went through all the main and pilot jets and emulsifier jets with the micro drill bits and carb cleaner but did not seem to help... it did not have any yellowish stains or signs of varnish but I went through the cleaning anyway... when the new replacement carburator did not help either I realized something else is going on... is it sucking air from somewhere else maybe?

[@IndRepair]

@@ryiangou The plastic between the carburetor and block must have a crack or not be level causing an air leak

[@ryiangou]

@@IndRepair Great lead... the plastic was intact, however, the gasket between the plastic and the block was the only one I did not replace as it was stuck pretty good on the block. When I noticed an oily stain at the bottom of that gasket I suspected that's where the air leak is... grabbed a small razor and wire-brush and carefully removed it and replaced with an OEM. That was it... no more surging... Thanks !!

[@IndRepair]

Great job!!

[@Indzeosko]

What would that job cost?

[@IndRepair]

Most places are going to charge an hour shop labor plus any parts needed. Some shops charge a flat rate for this instead of by the hour which could be more. Any local repair shop should be able to give you a rough estimate before taking it in. Thanks for watching!

[@shig357]

Anyone know the part number for the choke linkage?

[@IndRepair]

117-6040 should do it. Thanks for watching!

[@shig357]

@@IndRepairThanks! Is there a part number for the choke lever that sits on top of the carb? I got a machine for free and it's missing some pieces that I need to order.

[@IndRepair]

@@shig357 I would just order a whole carburetor. I do not believe they sell them separate, if they do they are likely at least half the price of a new carb with the lever. Something like this at amzn.to/3wKsDdH

[@chuckhuff7123]

What a bunch of junk there selling people

[@IndRepair]

Thanks for watching!!

[@rigitdigit]

run them out of gas at end of season. use premium gas. no problems

[@IndRepair]

Good advise. Premium fuel used must be ethanol free to solve most issues