TOSOT Mini-Split Installation [Electrical Emphasis]

TOSOT Mini-Split installation with an emphasis on the electrical hookup including which wire and breakers to use with each size of mini-split. I used Romex and an electrical whip to wire the unit to the subpanel in my metal garage. Crimpers, vacuum pump, and other useful tools that aren't suggested in the user manual that are necessary for DIY installation are discussed.
TOSOT Mini-Split Installed in Video:
-The Technical Specifications Sheet can be downloaded from this website under the Tech Specs tab which is under the Add to Cart button.
tosotdirect.com/collections/s...
Mini-Split Bracket:
tosotdirect.com/products/copy...
5/16" to 1/4" Vacuum Port Adapter:
www.amazon.com/Charging-Adapt...
DISCLAIMER: PERFORM ELECTRICAL WORK AT YOUR OWN RISK
Brettley Built features projects involving welding, electrical, plumbing, carpentry and much more. My channel is dedicated to teaching you how to do tackle projects yourself and save money. My wife, daughter, and I live in western Pennsylvania on six acres. We enjoy being outdoors, making improvements to our property, and making things. We adore our four dogs and three cats. We hope you enjoy our videos and spend time with us as we build and create!
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[@alienxfox]

This video was by far one of the best and closest step by step installation tutorial for a mini split on KZbin. I'm installing a Mr Cool unit and even there are a ton of "installation" videos most wiz by the electrical portion or skip it all together. Loved that you took your time in explaining things. Great job & New subbie here!

[@JB-bi8xb]

This video is one of the best instructional videos I've ever seen on you tube, very well done. Thank you!

[@cleenlivin]

I installed a Tosot unit that needed 230V. Your video was very helpful in wiring the electrical from my panel to the mini-split. I ended up using THNN wire and running heavier gauge wire to help future proof in case I purchase a larger unit. The break down of the two hot legs and the neutral, ground bonding in the panel was excellent. So far, I’m very happy with how the unit cools and how quiet the outdoor heat pump is. One thing I still need to install is a HVAC disconnect switch and surge protector. I also think I will slide the exposed signal wire connecting the indoor and outdoor units inside some flexible PVC to shield it from the elements.

[@specialguy18]

thank you so much from a DIY homeowner! greatly appreciate your analogies and intro to electricity! I got the tosot!

[@gptx_5018]

Thank you for taking the time to explain the electrical breaker process and requirement options to consider before choosing and installing a mini split. Great job!

[@amoswilliams9309]

Thanks Brett, I needed a crash course before I began my install. This covered everything thoroughly. Keep it up!

[@klebercabrera5023]

I will be getting a TOSOT mini split next week. This a very well explained video!

[@bobstokes4457]

Great video! Very informative. I bought a Mr Cool mini split a few months ago and am waiting to finish the drywall before installing. My system looks very similar to yours so I think this will be very helpful with my installation. I bought a 220Volt system, which I have already ran the 30 amp circuit to the disconnect.

[@Crealster1]

Wow you have the talent to teach and make it so simple to understand! love your videos! Thank you

[@sangertoacc]

This is the BEST instructional video very!!! Thank you for your help

[@21GunSonMusicMastermind]

Outstanding DIY video! Thank you for explaining the electrical aspect in such great detail,

[@jaenbow9714]

Bless you!!!! This is so comprehensive of a tutorial.

[@trapped7534]

Thanks so much for these videos,I have learned so much from you!!!

[@bamnjphoto]

Thanks, I just got my TOSOT very helpful explanation

[@yawner]

Best channel on KZbin by a country mile

[@reverse2]

Excellent video, thanks!

[@lyles253]

Very good teacher sir!

[@joeygonzalez1919]

This video was so helpful just crushed an install of a tosot 18000 unit thanks to you! Anyone else have a problem flaring tosots included line sets ? The 1/4 and 1/2 inch pipe didn’t fit in 5 different flare tools just slightly smaller 😠

[@frankbever1788]

We love our mini splits.

[@brettleybuilt]

Me too! This is our first but I plan on getting more.

[@aaronjagbeer7951]

Best explanation ever

[@SunnyInTheAM]

Very informative!

[@RickyTeachey]

This was a great video. The barrel rolling analogy needs some work though. It is misleading to say you and your friend take turns pushing; nope. You are both moving the barrel together all the time. But you are correct that your are both not PUSHING at the same time together- in fact you're both pushing and also pulling, but not in phase/together. But pushing AND pulling doesn't make a great analogy for moving a barrel. It is more like sawing a tree with an old manual saw. You can saw it yourself, push-pull, push-pull, with a one-man saw, or you can saw it using a two-man saw with a friend who is also doing their own push-pull, but you are pushing when he's pulling, and you are pulling when he's pushing.

[@dragongrips8095]

Thanks for the explanation on the 12-2 for 220 and how that works. I was so confused on why I’m running all my outlets on the same wire I’m supposed to run a 220 circuit on.

[@hameedy94]

47:07 they do it that way so it becomes an oil trap, but its not necessary to do it if your outdoor unit is on lower level than your indoor unit

[@rastagrastag7784]

Copper connections the copper on the indoor unit folds out and you can put it thru the wall and your flare connections are accessible without taking the head unit off the wall

[@nataliep.3003]

Thanks, Brett! Now I know for what I have to pay :))

[@brettleybuilt]

Check out more Metal Garage videos here: kzbin.info/aero/PLLeTRuTziDk6iU3eXPWaWMI-0D6C5LRui

[@danielhochohao]

Thank you so much for this video. Could u offer ur after thought on the efficiency of this particular brand? Thank you so much

[@brettleybuilt]

Sorry, not really. I know the unit I installed works great for heating my building but I am not sure about how efficient it is versus other brands.

[@alymalpica7870]

Awesome video! Quick question... what size of flare nut wrench did you use? I'm prepping before our split AC arrives. Thanks in advance!

[@brettleybuilt]

I just used line wrenches. I would get a set of them from Harbor Freight.

[@Trainman0401]

Quality work! ….question… is running the Romex through the pvc pipe to the outdoor disconnect code compliant or is it necessary to mount a junction box on the inside wall directly behind the disconnect? Thanks again!

[@brettleybuilt]

I don't see why it would violate code. The portion that went through the wall was very short. To put the entire length of Romex in conduit from the panel to the outside disconect would definitely violate code.

[@VVMVVMVVM]

Hi Bret love the videos! Why exactly do you have a electrical disconnect box if you already have a dedicated breaker? Is this for code?

[@brettleybuilt]

Yes. Keep an eye out for ac units around town and you will see that they have a disconnect near the unit.

[@nicknevets]

Awesome video! I'll be going with the double pole 15amp breaker with 14/2, would a 12/2 whip be fine?

[@brettleybuilt]

I am sure some electricians are going to chime in, but yes. The breaker will limit the current in the circuit to 15 amps (actually less, but just for description purposes I will say 15). Using a larger wire (12/2, 20 amp rated wire) will be fine regarding safety. It has been brought to my attention that in some municipalities, all components of the circuit must have the same amperage rating. In your case you would use a 15 amp breaker and would need to use 14 guage wire.

[@aaronmcbride8219]

The heat function actually comes from compressing the refrigerant and running the system in reverse, the inside unit acts like the condenser giving off heat from compressing the refrigerant.

[@ceceet]

I was thinking of buying the 230v 12,000 BTU unit. I have an existing 20 amp double pole that goes to a 230 outlet for a window unit that the previous owners put in that I am thinking of moving to a minisplit unit instad. Would that be too much for this unit, or would it just be a better bet to swap the breaker out for a 15 amp? This video makes it out like I would not have to change the wire in the event that it is using the correct gauge for a 20 amp. Thanks for any help, this is a very informative video. I appreciate you taking the time to make this.

[@brettleybuilt]

Yes, replacing the breaker seems like the better choice.

[@dannygarcia8012]

This video and answer have been very helpful. Thanks!@@brettleybuilt

[@WILSON.1]

Can I use the same a/c manifold set I use for auto a/c systems? There isn't anything different about the one for a home a/c unit, correct? Great video. thanks.

[@brettleybuilt]

Yes, you can. I used the automotive a/c manifold set from Harbor Freight.

[@WILSON.1]

@@brettleybuilt thanks

[@topdogvic]

What wire did you use from the main panel to the sub panel? And what gauge is it? I’m not sure if I missed how that was ran.

[@brettleybuilt]

Sorry. The wire was ran before we started the channel last year. It is 2-2-2-4 wire.

[@tallbadger]

is that tape that you used to tape up the lines included or did you have to purchase it separately

[@brettleybuilt]

It is included.

[@tomrunning357]

Doing a Samsung unit with 220v and a mop 20a. I have a 20a double breaker at the panel. My disconnect at the unit has 20a fuses in it. Do you know if having both a breaker and fuses on this installation is ok. I haven't put this unit in service yet as it is winter here now.

[@brettleybuilt]

Having both won't be a problem. If there is an issue at the unit, the fuses can be disconnected, and if too much amperage is drawn, either the fuses will blow or the breaker will trip.

[@WILSON.1]

My unit is a Gree Livo 36k btu. I'm running 10/2 wire from my main breaker panel, however, the unit came with a 14/4 connecting wire between the outdoor and indoor unit. I contacted their customer service team and they confirmed it was the proper wire and that 14/4 is adequate for between outdoor and indoor unit connections. However, now I'm in need of extending the connecting wire by about 4 feet. Do you think it'll be okay to extend the 14/4 wire another 4 feet or so? I'll connect two sections with crimp connectors and put the connections in a junction box. Any opinion is greatly appreciated. Thanks!

[@brettleybuilt]

If they said the wire was adequate and it was long enough I would use it. If you have to make a junction with their wire and your wire, I would absolutely swap it out with 10 guage wire the entire way. Who knows what they might say if the unit fails and you used their wire in conjunction with your own wire. Also, the longer the run, the larger the wire you want anyway to reduce voltage drop.

[@WILSON.1]

@@brettleybuilt thank you.

[@OToole87]

Hey I did the install by the book. My indoor unit shows 120v comming in but nothing is powering on. Is there something I am missing? Is there a special tab I was supposed to remove. Please help. The tosot customer service is not doing so great and I have 6 more of these units to install and the 2 I have put in are both having the same problem

[@brettleybuilt]

Can you send me an email this morning. [e-mail]. I will get back to you asap.

[@rastagrastag7784]

Also use nylog sealer on the flare fitting

[@brettleybuilt]

I thought about it as other people have used it, but the flare fittings had the inserts that looked like they kept the fittings in good shape.

[@deancapinegro4575]

You do not use Nylog on the copper fittings at all?

[@brettleybuilt]

I didn't, but you certainly can if you want to.

[@cjohansen5308]

Any indication if the 98.5 minimum distance from floor is for performance or just practicality? I'd be installing in basement remodel, height is limited. Also, I only really need for heat and unlikely ever for cooling. Has anyone seen/used floor mount mini split unit?

[@brettleybuilt]

I am honestly not sure. It seemed in the instructions that that minimum height was required for performance, but it didn't say that the unit wouldn't work at a lower height.

[@brettwmitchell]

I got the Tosot 12000 BTU 230V unit which has Max Overcurrent of 15A. Tosot supplies 16 AWG wire for the power even though 14 AWG should be used for 15A circuit. Buy a whip with 14 AWG+ or use the 16 AWG wire? Seems odd to me that they provide undersized wire.

[@brettleybuilt]

Yes, I am not sure why they undersized the wire. Definitely use the 14 Guage wire.

[@brettwmitchell]

@@brettleybuilt thanks for the quick response. Agree that 14 awg is the better way to go. The wire between units is 18 awg which is probably okay for power and signal since the indoor unit doesn't use much power.

[@specialguy18]

​@@brettleybuilt I think TOSOT sizes or "undersizes" the wires according to the min. amperage (MCA). so my 120v 9k BTU has a MCA of 13A but a breaker of 20 amps, so they recommend AWG 16+ instead of the 12 AWG as you recommended. Also, They included 14 AWG wires in the packaging. I don't understand either why they do this. Wouldn't the 16AWG wire burn completely before the 20 amp breaker kicks in?

[@DJxSKETCH]

Who charged the refrigerant into the unit? Yourself or did you hire an HVAC tech to do it?

[@brettleybuilt]

These are great as they come precharged. The installer (the homeowner or a technician) is responsible for evacuating the lines. Once the lines are evacuated, you open the 5mm Allen valve above the service port and the unit is charged.

[@rastagrastag7784]

Pressure test first then vacume

[@DJxSKETCH]

@@brettleybuilt Wow - that's crazy! That basically eliminates the need for an HVAC tech ($$$$ saved).

[@richardruiz302]

What if the inside unit comes with a power cord with out a plug attached?

[@brettleybuilt]

Usually the power comes through the outside unit and everything is hardwired in. What type of unit are you installing?

[@baraclude]

Where do you buy the freon kit?

[@brettleybuilt]

The freon comes with the unit.

[@nelsonkock3042]

Do you have any SPD installed?

[@brettleybuilt]

I don't, but I should get one.

[@allenlundy1]

After my install the indoor unit is running but the outdoor will not come on?? What did I do wrong

[@brettleybuilt]

Is the outside unit properly charged with refrigerant?

[@allenlundy1]

Yes. I actually call a AC guy and it was fully charged and everything was done right. He said the motherboard is bad

[@diegospinnerable]

tosot worth it?

[@brettleybuilt]

Absolutely!

[@LightGesture]

See, no one is talking about wiring in that breaker/ disconnect box outside

[@rastagrastag7784]

You should have made the connections on the outside of the building for easy access in the future.

[@brettleybuilt]

Which connections?

[@rastagrastag7784]

@@brettleybuilt and you can relocate the drain to the opposite side so it will follow the copper lineset out the wall. Just a easier install all together

[@njc7293]

I am a licensed electrician and if your coming out from a sub panel then your neutral and ground should not be bonded. They need to be separated from each other. Your ground wire goes to ground bar and neutral to neutral bar only. I like your videos but you shouldn’t be giving electric lessons when you are giving out the wrong info.

[@brettleybuilt]

They aren't bonded together. There is no bonding screw going from the neutral bus bar to the panel that would bond them. I have had the panel inspected and it is fine.

[@crimestoppers1877]

@@brettleybuilt I don't want to be picky. But would it be a good idea to put a piece of red ( or black) electrical tape on the neutral at each end so anyone in the future who is troubleshooting it know that you are using your ground wire as a neutral. Normally I would be using 10/3 or 12/3 as my feed wires from the sub panel. This cable already contains a third conductor usually red. Black on side "A" of a split phase residential service entrance and the Black wire would represent the B side at both main and sub panel. Of course you do not bond the green earth ground and grounding rod to the Neutral at any and all sub panels ( for those install with sub panels). What do you think? If I were troubleshooting an unknown circuit I would like to know that the Neutral in your set up was actually the B side and has a potential of 120 VAC. A piece of red tape on the white would alert me to that fact.