Jaguar ABS and traction control Failure and repair XK8 part 2 Inside the Module

[@stephendavies6949]

A sign of the times: conformal coating on PECs! A nice, patient, methodical, thorough and skillful repair. Classic TTG.

[@ToTheGarage]

Thanks Stephen👍

[@williamhanlon8159]

Used a hacksaw and a utility knife to open the box .Re-soldered the two pins to the motor. 6 years ago and still works fine. Like you said a little time and save thousands. I have been watching your videos for years and they are great. Thanks

[@ToTheGarage]

Thanks so much @williamhanlon8159 And great to hear from others who have entered the module before me👍

[@stephenoakley1583]

Hi John. I'm a bit behind on these ABS repair videos but wanted to dedicate time to really enjoy them. As expected really informative and enjoyable. Wishing you and Jo a really good Christmas. All the best for 2025 as well! Stephen Oakley 👍

[@ToTheGarage]

Merry Chistmas, and a healthy, wealthy and happy New Year to you and yours Stephen.

[@richardsutton01]

Two excellent informative videos, John. Both my X100 and X150 are still working fine but we did have a Disco 2 a couple of years ago with a similar fault relating to the internal electrical connections to the ABS shuttle valve. We fixed it using the well-known hack of bypassing the internal electrical connectors with a couple of external cables wired directly into the loom outside the ABS box.

[@ToTheGarage]

This is a top tip for the future Richard. Many thanks

[@hunty28]

Thanks John, you’ve shed light on something that I’ve often heard about but never understood - ‘dry joints’. Hope I won’t need to repair mine but at least now I know I may be able to👍💪

[@ToTheGarage]

Glad you enjoyed it

[@wolfhalupka8992]

thanks John, that can save a lot of people with older style ABS ecus a lot of money! something just occurred to me, all of this relating to late model XK8 and perhaps XJ8 with modern systems (the 4.2ltr cars). the use of "original" sensors is not required, a good quality aftermarket sensor will works just fine. just be certain to get the proper type (active vs passive). when getting an "open circuit" diagnostic code, the circuit can be tested by plugging in an old style passive sensor. those have very low resistance (about 1kOhm). do not drive, just turn on the ignition. the ecu will measure resistance to the sensors and if the error code now vanishes, we've got a bum connection somewhere, but no broken wiring. this may point to a connector problem, like unseated pins. note- passive sensors may not be used for driving, as the ecu can't read those signal and the generated voltage may be unsuitable for the modern ecu.

[@kees-tanis]

One resistance measuring tip: measure the resistance of the leads first. Probably 0.2 ohms. The pin should be 0. Great video, btw!

[@ToTheGarage]

Cheers Kees. Another top tip.

[@philf5043]

For continuity you really should be checking from thr pin to the track that its soldered to. Also use of a decent flux will add the flow and conectivity of the soldering. I sprayed the board with some pcb laquer . A very satisfying job to do and many of todays "mechanics" wouldnt have a clue hiw to fix .👍

[@ToTheGarage]

Thanks @philf5043. I need to up my soldering game and possibly my soldering kit. Many of our xk8 problems are now related to aging and unavailable modules.

[@RumPi-00]

A very good idea, if you already have an open module, is to replace the electrolytic capacitors. When they spill, they do a lot of damage!

[@ToTheGarage]

To be fair, if i had a stock of electronic components, I would certainly have done so @RumPi-00. A top tip👍

[@Mechautoinsight]

For future reference, these washers can be removed using a couple of jewellers screwdrivers levering up each of the one way tangs on one side. They are spring steel so a fair bit of effort is required. New subscribers enjoying your well presented vlogs.

[@ToTheGarage]

Thank you very much👍👍

[@andrewpryce5703]

Fascinating!

[@ToTheGarage]

Thanks Andrew

[@stagnite2]

Good soldering John. Nice job and the close up filming was really good.

[@ToTheGarage]

Thanks Nev👍

[@25sunbeam]

You should get yourself some flux (the sort designed for soldering, not plumbing) and apply it to the joint before you start heating it with the iron. Also a good idea to tin your bit first too. Use some nice leaded solder too, it gives a far better joint. Clean off the excess flux with some IPA. Probably worth applying some clear varnish to replace the conformal coating you removed too.

[@RBY349]

that looked like lead free solder, which is useless for electrical, see if you can get some real stuff! it won't cake up and flows properly, actually, the board looked lead free as well which adds to the problem in the first place, great video tho.

[@garyvanremortel5218]

On the front wheel sensors it's most likely to be the cables, because steering causes them to flex so much. Just drill a 1" diameter hole with a hole saw and plug it after soldering. Always flux a joint before reflowing.

[@ToTheGarage]

Agree that the front cables are the weakest link in this whole system Gary👍

[@lyfandeth]

I'm wondering if that board was built around the same time that lead-free solder was being required. It had a reputation for causing cold solder joints like that. In that case, you might have to consider sending the whole unit out for fresh wave soldering?

[@markwilliams2830]

Good point! I had this issue with an old nissan throttle body.A real pain re soldering the joints with leaded due to the difference in heat transfer.

[@lyfandeth]

A bit off-topic, but I noticed the lengthwise striations on your fingernails. I've got them too, and no one (doctor, dermatologist, nutitionist..) seems to know what causes them. Any tips from the UK on that?

[@RBY349]

think its lack of calcium , can't quite remember but its lack of something

[@lyfandeth]

I hate ABS and traction systems. Damned expensive, and any properly trained driver can outperform them. Just give me 4 high performance disc brakes and save all the rest for some who wants more complications in their life.

[@ToTheGarage]

I agree in part, At the limits on a track, most pros will be disabling Traction control for sure, ABS will probably split opinion. However for the general population and with black ice, deisel on wet roads etc. Im sure ABS saves loads of peoples bacon every day, Our reactions just are not quick enough.