Tow In. Died While Driving. How Can Something This Small Cause Such A Problem !?

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[@StephenMazzitelli]

Had my grandsons '14 F150 3.7 with a crank no start. Towed in to my home and it immediately started. First thought was fuel pump . The thought of dropping the tank did not make me feel good. Started with the basics; no dtc's, pump supply fuse looked funny, not blown, but burned on one leg. Very much like the fuse in this video, but not separated or blown. replaced the fuse and I installed monitor lights for the pump and relay at the module. This was three weeks ago and still no failure. Saw this video and the light bulb in my head lit up. Thank you from an 83 yr old retired auto tech.

[@barrygrant2907]

Back in the early '80s, when we lived in Fairbanks, AK, my wife drove an '80 Corolla wagon. One sub-zero day, it simply died. Nothing worked! Had it towed to a shop where the mech found and electrical junction block and the heavy power wire going to it had melted. He said it was not too uncommon because in sub-zero temps, the heater fans are high, rear window heaters are on, everything electrical is running on high, and one tiny bit of corrosion will cause enough resistance to melt stuff.

[@gb123-ej8wh]

Interesting. So in extreme cold climates heavier wiring is needed? Or just routine cleaning if contact surfaces?

[@barrygrant2907]

@@gb123-ej8wh The mechanic said it was not real uncommon because everything electrical was running on full in the winter--heater fan on high, lights, wipers, etc. and some vehicles just weren't designed to carry that much load continuously. One bit of corrosion in the main feeder box connections and the heat would build up quickly. It was not something you could easily and routinely inspect/treat.

[@txdm9383]

Very common issue with the 09-14 F150s, Ford sells a relocation kit P/N: EL3Z-14293-A as part of TSB# 15-0137 which relocates that fuse to location #70 which is a box fuse. I've seen quite a few fuel pumps replaced unnecessarily for a crank - no start because of that fuse melting.

[@joehyundaitech7961]

wow this is really good info to know bc my bro is in nc and has the same truck so before some shop tries to sell him a fuel pump I would tell him to start with this

[@philrizzo4792]

Interesting video, Kenny. As an electrical engineer of 40+ years experience, I would suggest that your nickel's worth of fuse simply failed, likely due to a manufacturing defect, corrosion, temperature cycling or some strange combination of all three. While these automotive fuses are generally high reliability devices, they are made to be very low cost in massive volumes and I suspect that only lot testing is done to determine the trip current rather than any other failure mode. They are bits of cheap plastic (some in festive colors!) with plated copper blades and an alloy metal for the element. We used to make a phone call for a nickel.

[@WrenchingWithKenny]

Thanks for your response. You validated what I thought about the fuse. Keep wrenching 🔧

[@Donnies_Garage]

It will be fine for awhile just make sure you put some extra fuses in the glove. I had the same year truck and engine had it towed to 2 different shops when it happened and I paid for 2 fuel pump replacements. the third time it happened it was a week after pump number 2. So I looked at it myself and found the blown fuse. It was a random thing so when it happened I just threw a new fuse at it. It was funny because when you said it just died I said fuse same as my truck. LOL Keep wrenchin love your content...

[@randyhammett4467]

Great video, I have had much older vehicles with different fuses that didn't show signs of being blown but worked when a fresh fuse was installed. Your explanation was easy to understand. Thanks again!

[@francodeiuliis1562]

This happened to me on my 2013 f150 5.0 shutting off while driving mostly on the highway many times and many headaches towed to shop it started I was wild drove it home did a search sure enough fuse #27 needed a ford relocation kit to a box fuse in slot #70 That fix will work for awhile but unfortunately it needs the relocation kit witch came with instructions did it myself in 40 minutes Never failed again Cheers from Nova Scotia

[@jdtractorman7445]

Call Ford. There is a relocate kit as others have stated. It will use a different location in that fuse block and one of those square fuses.

[@oneeyedjack4727]

I believe that I've seen the same issue on Ford Boss Me's channel. It was such a problem that Ford had a TSB and kit to move that fuse to another location in the fuse box. I remember that the fuse box he worked on was over the radiator as shown. Found this online on: The Driver Advisor, written by Stefan K. "2009 - 2014 model years of the Ford F-150 have problems with an overheating fuel pump fuse which needs to be relocated."

[@annettesurfer]

Ford Boss Me screws up more than he gets things right. The mere mention that he shouldn’t slather electrical terminals with dielectric grease because it’s non-conductive got me shadow-banned/ghosted. While he does utilize clickbait titles, it’s nowhere near the crap Scotty Kilmer pulls. Wrenching with Kenny has become my new favorite channel to go along with South Main Auto Repair.

[@campermike8879]

@@annettesurfer Scotty is full of more you know what than a over flowing port-a-john Stopped watching him after he went all click bait and would contradict himself one week to next One video said quick struts were junk week or two later promoting them

[@rrnelsonjr]

I had a F650 with an Alison transmission and the transmission started acting up. I knew the issue was electrical because when the transmission worked, everything felt solid. The fuse for the TCM wasn't blown, as far as I could see, but I replaced the fuse anyway and everything started working. Apparently the middle piece of the fuse separated from the post and was making momentary contact. That was a first for me.

[@DAK59]

I saw a similar problem with the AC on a Corolla. My AC would work in the morning but not in the afternoon. Not fun in an Atlanta summer. I eventually found that the fuse for the compressor had a crack and didn't make contact when it was hot. I replaced it and never had a problem after that.

[@robertcomp363]

Hi Kenny, I have more than 50 years in electronics. First in home electronics and then industrial. I have seen many fuses die of fatigue. You can actually see the fuse element flex in a glass fuse when the load is applied.

[@hickorystx]

Very interesting and a bit of an oddball situation. Nice work on your part, once again!!! Something to keep in mind for future issues when it comes to electrical troubleshooting!!!😀

[@stevenkroot31]

Hey Kenny, could have just used the ammeter on your fluke(or whatever good brand of equipment). They will usually go to 20 amps, wire your meter in series instead of the wire loop you would clamp the current clamp on. El cheapo meters will usually do only 10 amps or less.

[@bobby9195]

Hello Mr Kenny hope you had a wonderful day today and all is well

[@user-mt7it7td8w]

Love your Launch. I have the same setup. My friends think I'm smart. Nope. Just good tools.

[@WrenchingWithKenny]

You're smart! You buy the right tools to get the job done. Thanks for watching. Keep wrenching 🔧

[@simonatkinson1107]

Even new parts can be faulty. I once had a front wheel bearing fitted, (I didn’t have the tools to press the bearings in and out), that lasted 250 miles before it started making seriously bad noises. Fortunately the mechanic I used replaced it at no cost to me. Like you Kenny, there are some really great mechanics out there.

[@robertlewis3712]

Kenny a guy did a test on replacement fuses and discovered it took up to 60 amps to blow a fuse marked 15. The replacements were made in China.

[@dennissmith8199]

Kenny, you can get a rough idea of the current through a fuse by measuring the voltahe drop across the fuse with a load on it. That is I saw Eric O. use in one of his videos, and there is a chart that will show the voltage generated across a fuse of a certain rating, in millivolts. SO that might come in handy to know.

[@greggc8088]

Famous fuse #27 toasted fuse and socket with relocation kit outlined by TSB-15-0137. There's a load of cases I've put in Alldata Community.

[@markk3652]

My thoughts: the F150’s have a reputation for the fuel pump driver module going bad. They are located at the back of the frame above the spare tire. It’s an aluminum case module mounted on the steel frame. Corrosion eats it up where it meets the frame, causing corrosion and moisture to infiltrate the module and shorts out the board inside. My guess is that it got wet from the weather or car wash. When it shorts out, it puts a massive draw on the fuel pump circuit, causing the 20 amp fuse to get hot. It may not actually blow the fuse, but it heats up enough to melt it just like you found.

[@dannyh773]

I had a jeep grand Cherokee with a relay bypass put in it do this. I replaced the inline fuse. Started right up. Put the amp clamp on it. It was within range. That was about a year ago. Still running fine.

[@miketrissel5494]

The clamp on ammeters for DC get a bit pricey. At HF, HD, they have a small device the plugs into the fuse holder, then you put the original fuse into the side of the fuse holder clip. It has a short cord with a digital LCD display, to read the amps. Comes in several sizes. Have had one for 10 years. 304B fuse buddy

[@JeffinTD]

Yeah, fuse loop I believe is the device you are talking about. There are cheap ac/dc clamp meters from the direct import places that work but aren’t very rugged, and super high $ Fluke. The Kline HD sells at like $100 is a nice compromise imho. Putting a current probe on the fuse loop and looking at the waveform on an oscilloscope could be interesting. Might see a segment in the pump motor is open, or shorted.

[@michaelmartin2276]

Had this happened to me when driving cross country in a 2009. About 7pm on the perimeter in Atlanta. While pulling a 30ft camper. Wish I had this information then !

[@joehyundaitech7961]

this video taught me to always check the fues first befor even thinking of changing a fuel pump stat with the most simple things first

[@glennfields8121]

Very nice video brother Kenny! You always do a great quality job. Your customers are blessed to have you work on their vehicle!

[@goodcitizen64]

Thanks Kenny!

[@norcal715]

Good job Kenny. Keep Wrenching. I had a fuel pump fail on my 98 Explorer and it did not set any codes at all, you would think it would set a circuit code. New fuel pump solved the issue. Thank you again.

[@americobomba2838]

Great video

[@Dkrause1970]

I have a launch code scanner. It comes in handy.

[@WrenchingWithKenny]

It really does. I am pleasantly surprised by how good it works. Keep wrenching 🔧

[@stephenmeeks684]

They say, “It’s only temporary unless it works.” Remember on the records to remind yourself to replace the temporary things.

[@xenia5101]

The other thing given that Ford has relocated the fuse position, is the level of vibration experienced. Long term fuse failure is usually due to either corrosion, which causes resistance heating, or vibration induced fatigue failure. I am guessing this fuse was not supported well by the block design.

[@DependableAutoTruck]

most of the time i just use my DVOM and put on amps and a 10 amp fuse in line to protect the meter i know it has a 10A to protect but the inline fuse usually will save the meter fuse.

[@WrenchingWithKenny]

Thats a great point!! I was thinking of doing that, but I was worried that since the circuit is protected with a 20A , that 10A would not be adequate and pop the inline. I would guess that the circuit probably pulls 7-14A normally under its highest average load. You gave me a great idea for a future video !!

[@richardcranium5839]

there was a recall to move a wire to that fuse box. which one i'm not sure. also the fuel pump driver module is mounted on the crossmember above the spare tire. its a known issue the aluminum on the module does not like the steel xmember and corrodes until it shorts out. the new ones mount with ss spacers and ss bolts in kit form.

[@VIheavyequipment]

yea my 2013 had the same problem, fuse 27 relocation kit is what ford put in, just upgrades the fuse to a box type fuse, handles more current flow, but they also said sometime if you just put a new fuse in it'll last a really long time, was a tsb tho

[@anodakatoda6902]

A few months ago my 2013 F-150 had the exact same fuse melt. It had about 180,000 miles at the time. Replaced it and it's been fine since. It's crazy to see your experience with that problem this morning.

[@shaunmapes7441]

Hi Ken. This is a very common failure. Ford makes a kit that relocates that circuit to a fuseable link style.

[@dennislyon5412]

Kenny - I think that style of fuse was used as a sort of space saver (more fuses per square inch) which ended up meaning that the terminal interface was too small for larger fuse sizes - above 15A? 20A fuses were available, but applying a current 15A or above exceeded that interface capability. The fuel pump drew a current that was borderline too much for that circuit.

[@russellstyles5381]

I had that happen once. Just shut off as if you turned the ignition off on expressway. Was a hall sensor in distributor.

[@woodsie5474]

Loose connections can overheat, just like the old aluminum and copper wires allowed for a while in wiring homes would expand and contract, then vibrate and build up heat. Many homes burned down because of that. Aluminum wiring in homes is no longer code.

[@jthonn]

That is a weird one Kenny. For some reason there was a bad connection on that leg. Oh and on the good voltmeters, they have a clamp at the top for amps. Thanks for sharing

[@dugie5246]

My '06 r150 similar. Wouldn't start temperature below 25 degrees Fahrenheit. Once warmer started and ran ok. My SAE mechanic friend said start with simplest check closest to 12 volt power . My fuse tested good with ohm meter. When looking at fuel pump fuse, noticed one of spades was really dark in color. Went ahead and replaced with new 20 Amp and no more problems.

[@moggy823]

It was about 20 years ago that lead-free solder started to be introduced into industrial electronics. It was a while before they got the technique and the materials, especially the fluxes, right. There has been a lot of failures over the years due to cracking of these early lead-free solder joints. If that fuse had been one of these, then the solder joint might have started to crack causing a high(er) resistance that became worse over time due to cyclic heating until it failed.

[@dougvandegrift8727]

Hey Ken, it’s the arcade guy. I have seen the same thing with other fuses in pinball machine. No power, fuse looks good. Tested good as well. Plugged it into the fuse well and nothing. The the fuse was bad. Popped in a new fuse and everything is good. But a car fuse?? Yea, they Blow, but not melt. Has to be a factory defect.

[@craigdowney6438]

my dads old Ford used the old style glass fuses. one had the odd habit of "burning out" by blowing the connection just inside the end cap. the fuse looked perfect and would work intermittently. the only way to know was to use an ohm meter!

[@robstephens]

Many online sellers are currently selling defective fuses that don't blow at the rated amps.

[@shawmarcus1989]

There's a TSB for that issue relocates fuse and relay

[@mikemckain6556]

check for TSB to relocate the fuse

[@sheerwillsurvival2064]

Good video my bet bad pump or pump ground

[@kellismith4329]

When I go to the parts store to get replacement fuses, there are fuses that have an internal led that glow after they pop open so you can see open fuses at a glance - the price of the repl fuses are the same price as the one without

[@danaowen9014]

Unless some one had pulled that fuse ot to use it someware else and broke it putting it back in.

[@EnglishTurbines]

My money is on terminal corrosion. These fuses and their sockets have cheap plating. One leg gets a bit corroded and it heats up. Many hours and cycles later with resistance building eventually it overheats and physically breaks....😳🤔🇬🇧

[@michaelbdoherty]

That's the kind of weird issues that happen to me alot.

[@campermike8879]

Seen more than one 40amp larger version of those fuses melt on International. They ran the ECM More than one truck towed in. Also had connector problems in the harness that held that and the trans fuse. Truck die shake the harness and it starts

[@donames6941]

A bad connection would cause heat and melt fuse seen it many times, you may have to put in a new connection

[@user-vj6fl4ec3o]

I enjoy watching your videos. I have a question about the scanners that you have used. I seen the Snap on, the Launch, and a Kingbolen which one have you found that has the best features and ease of use? I was a mechanic for about ten years before leaving for different type of work but, still do most of my own work and for friends. Maybe a comparison video.

[@markcondrey2297]

Kenny I believe it was cursed by the voodoo queen. That explains everything perfectly lol. I too believe that the male fuse leg was probably soldered to the fuse strip medium…. Maybe even a spot weld, that wasn’t done properly. And over many heating/ cooling cycles began to fracture and created a high impedance gap, that in turn caused thermal runaway and ultimately melted the plastic and completely opened the circuit. Yes that is definitely strange. Too bad you can’t check the amp draw, but it probably isn’t necessary.

[@SeanBZA]

Those fuses are stamped out of a sheet, and the metal used is aluminium, which has a low melting point, or a tin zinc alloy with a similar low melting point. Then they get inserted in the plastic housing. The melted metal is from oxide forming between the legs of the fuse and the edge of the brass contact in the housing. The cure is to remove all the fuses, and then clean down there with a thin needle file, to make a new clean surface, followed by a thin coat of dielectric grease to keep it from tarnish, then the same on the fuse blades as well. Needle file set, and the single sided flat file, one wipe down per side, and then a thin coat of the grease on a piece of thin card cut to fit, and same on the fuse. Then put in, and check the contacts are what is gripping, and not the plastic, and retension the contacts as needed to get a good grip on the fuse blade.

[@MajorWeakness]

My 2010 f150 had a fuel pump module on the axle that had a tsb to relocate because of corrosion

[@scottymoondogjakubin4766]

Could also be the fuel pump drawing to many amps ! Either its a clogged filter or the pumps on its why out !

[@emmettrobinson9708]

Enjoy, it, can't be careful. Sounds like you have a cold.

[@VIheavyequipment]

great vid tho

[@originaldcjensen]

Other Captain: "Catalyzer is a nothing part, Captain." Mal: "It’s nothing ’til you don’t got one. Then it appears to be everything."

[@2-old-Forthischet]

I had an amp clamp once. It was stolen before I ever used it.

[@Michael-yi4mc]

Steal it back!

[@2-old-Forthischet]

@@Michael-yi4mc myself and others who were victims of car break ins, suspect it was the homeless people that lived around our parking lot. They stole my tool bag out of my van and probably got enough for one hit.

[@Michael-yi4mc]

@@2-old-Forthischet 👍We just can’t be too careful anymore.

[@MitzvosGolem1]

Only use Buss mini fuse or OEM , NAPA etc. Never use Chinese parts from harbor freight. Will burn your car up.

[@donaldreid1847]

Remember Made in PRC means people's republic of china

[@gb123-ej8wh]

Fuses are just a safe guard. Not necessary for circuits to work just there to help prevent fire from overheating wires. But is it possible there’s a bare spot on the wiring for the fuel pump circuit and grounded and a defective fuse broke in the wrong place? Will a intermittent fault in a fuel pump cause that fuse to pop under certain circumstances?

[@dangeisler2983]

I had the same issue on a Chevy s10 it ended up being the fuse box itself the wire going to it had melted

[@shmeleu]

Good fuse should show 0 resistance without pressing test lead into it. Cheap ones need some scratching and pressing on the test lead for show something less than infinite resistance on a multimeter

[@CPBOXFIXR]

Known issue with these, they make a relocate kit with a different fuse.

[@UberArchangel]

Fuse cracked. Happens all the time in big rigs. One leg will look just like that. Also if that was replaced China has been selling bad fuses though they are normally the clear hard plastic 90s see through kinda clear. They don't pop anywhere near their correct ratings. But, like I said the fuse cracked. Will burn up one leg just like that. Cracks at the top where the fuse link is and is very annoying. Especially when it doesn't burn indicate like you saw. Cause the fuse will look good. If you put pressure down on the fuse basically not gingerly touching with the leads you can actually pish the connection together. It's to the point now where we will just put a fuse in to see whether it fixes it and test with the new fuse in and throw away the old cause you just don't know.

[@UberArchangel]

If you google freightliner fuse cracking issue you will see it

[@michaelhansen7920]

same thing happened to my 2009 F150 - bad fuse leg fuse didn't pop

[@DS-ss7vl]

Harbor Freight fuse?

[@TOP2095]

Possibly for whatever reason the fuse was lose and caused a ground fault and was arcining allowing it to get hot and eventually melt.

[@johnsquire1019]

I had a similar problem with a fuse..i replaced the fuse and road tested with no problem the customer picked up the car the next day it was towed back in...futher troubleshooting i found a bad wire in the fuel pump.

[@erwinpadgett1050]

Common Problem, for this electrical system on Fords. The Fuel pump fuse burns out and shuts down the engine. I have already replaced more than a dozen of them. The Fuse box connectors are to far away from the fuse. Bad Design......... Ford tells you to remove the fuel pump fuse to another slot on the Fuse box with the wires and connecters.

[@KRich408]

You know where that fuse was made, they don't work very unsafe.

[@Taillighttim26]

I wonder if the air box was like that because someone else was messing around with the same thing you never know if there oh my friend can fix it then a day later it is towed into the shop

[@Uticagreens]

And . . . What did you do about the broken air muffler issue?

[@WrenchingWithKenny]

The part is unavailable. We are trying to find a used one. I glued it in place for now. Thanks for watching. Keep wrenching 🔧

[@richardstone5241]

Corrosion

[@charleywalker2982]

👍

[@williamwhite9767]

Maybe someone pulled that fuse with pliers and damaged it in the past? Might be worthwhile to check the condition of the FPDM.

[@aprilgeneric8027]

what happened to the spares in every fuse box manufacturer gives you 1 eextra of each amperage in the fuse box in storage holder slots. a leg melting off and solder in there... did somebody power testor it with a junk chinesium/korean circuit lamp testor? doesn't look like an accessory was sub'd into that circuit like remote starter or security system shut off...but who knows any TSB's on those systems that a previous mechanic might have tested that circuit for continuity or grounded while replacing a takada airbag (hahaha laugh i know just no idea why any one would extra ground or short or what ever to protect/test that circuit. i would hope a security system would cut power to the fuel pump...but that would be to astrophysixXxistsested edjumacated a simple theft prevention fix.

[@davemccourt4888]

That’s a ford!

[@philipgruver1401]

I have seen bad fuses

[@unwired1281]

👍👍‼️

[@donaldboley771]

Only a ford could run 12 years on a bad fuse.😂

[@jeffcompton6937]

Yeah fuse 27 relocation as per the tsb will be required.

[@dolfinwriter5389]

Defective fuse OR it blew one before, and somebody put in a cheap Chinese made piece of junk fuse?

[@myriammorrison9840]

5.4 ford 🤦🏻‍♀️ not my favorite 😮

[@WrenchingWithKenny]

Mine either, well, the 3 valve is not my favorite. Thanks for watching & keep wrenching 🔧

[@ranger178]

this guy on you tube just did a video of how the chinese crap fuses sold on online retailers don't work at their rated values and malfunction most of the time. he found they could run at several times their rated load so that could damage other components and wiring.

[@WrenchingWithKenny]

I've heard of that. The chinese ones usually look different. This one matched all the other fuses in the box. I'm pretty confident that it was a factory fuse. Thanks for watching 🔧

[@mohawkmike142]

Go back Ken and re edit it. Twice on there you say high resistance caused the circuit to blow. LOW resistance is why fuses blow not high. I know you know better.

[@guy33909]

made in china

[@Z-Ack]

Kenny looks and sounds like junk man from neutral drop..