Toyota Sienna V6 3MZ-FE Timing Belt, Water Pump, Seals, & Pulleys Replacement

[@markjohnson9495]

Just got a 2004 Sienna with 238k and doing this. This is what EVERY mechanical repair video on KZbin should be. Clear and to the point. Very helpful. Well done sir!

[@hardlymovingpro]

Thanks for your comment and support!

[@TheHonestPeanut]

Dude this is absolutely fantastic. No wasted time, great ingenuity, great timing and explanations. Thank you SO much for this video.

[@hardlymovingpro]

You're very welcome! Glad you liked it!

[@zebejiogu1485]

You are a professional mechanic. Period. I watch the whole video. Excellent!

[@hardlymovingpro]

Thanks for your comments and support!

[@racheat]

Tonight, for my girlfriend's 2005 Limited V6 3.3L (3MZ-FE), I finished. I finished because of this video. I'd like to thank you for taking the time to cover all of the details. Along with the right rear bearing and backplate, crank shaft sensor, thermostat, and PCV, I saved her a huge chunk of money. That rear cam really wants to spring fore or aft (more-so toward the cabin), and luckily it sounds fine running so I don't think I bent any valve stems, but I would recommend to anyone trying this for the first time, follow the Toyota instructions where you start everything already off 60 degrees, and only right it inline at the very end. I did revolve the crank 720degrees to rotate the cams 360 so I could verify everything remained aligned. Phew...thank God that's over. This was my first timing belt ever. I now believe other commenters that stated this might not be the best one to try first, but HMP really does have everything covered. Well done video!

[@hardlymovingpro]

Thanks for your wonderful and successful repair story ... and glad you saved a lot of money doing it yourself!

[@racheat]

@@hardlymovingpro one might think being a mechanical engineer that I'd have been doing my own car repair since the 6th grade but alas, that fear of "messing up" one's only set of wheels has a huge effect. Now that I've done this one, do I remain intimidated? Nope, not at all....and, I did happen to get a really nice impact driver with 1400 ft-lbs breakaway torque out of this whole adventure LOL. That crankshaft pulley bolt was really on there from the previous change!!!! Stay healthy! Thank you!!!!!

[@alansexton7]

@@hardlymovingpro Where can I find those Toyota instructions please? Thats my biggest concern about doing this job is keeping that cam bank from springing into the cyl head. What do you mean in pysical terms when you say start at 60 degrees off? What or where is the measurement taken from or to?

[@alansexton7]

Where can I find those Toyota instructions please? Thats my biggest concern about doing this job is keeping that cam bank from springing into the cyl head. What do you mean in pysical terms when you say start at 60 degrees off? What or where is the measurement taken from or to?

[@DrewsBackYardMechanics]

@@alansexton7 At 11 minutes into this video he explains the 60 degrees off, where & why - kzbin.info/www/bejne/g37Un3tthrKIec0si=O2Q-H8k8rJBQp7m-

[@livetoridemyxlh]

The effort you have gone through to produce such a meticulous step by step video is extrodonary. Great job.

[@hardlymovingpro]

Thank you very much for your comment and support!

[@sertimins]

By far the best version of this engine TB/WP change. I have 06 RX330 and been watching probable all that exist on KZbin since last year. Great camera work, editing and tips! Thank you so much!

[@hardlymovingpro]

Thanks and yes ... you are correct. My editor-in-chief is very meticulous with both the camera work and editing. He will spend hours and hours ... day after day ... to produce just one video. People have no idea the effort involved in producing this quality. I'm just the actor content provider. But we do enjoy doing it! This video still produced 2 thumbs down. Go figure.

[@skyhappy]

@@hardlymovingpro Yeah I was surprised at the high quality, angles, and detail that was involved in making this video. Really well made content. I really appreciate the free work you guys do to help us folk with our cars.

[@hardlymovingpro]

Thanks. Believe my partner missed his calling in becoming a movie director. Always wants new videos to be better than the last and content that the audience really wants.

[@herbertjohnson9255]

Yes it is the best! Really hit it out of the park with the hyperlinks for reference as you're doing the job! Thanks!

[@randymeyer6482]

Short attention spans, I guess...GREAT video....Do the timng belts on these really NEED to be changed every 90K??? Rethinking it...kind of intimidated by the alignment of the timing pulleys...

[@YellowScubadiver]

Hey thanks for this video, I did mine on my 2004 sienna, took me a weekend. For people watching, it's much harder than it looks in this video, the angles he gets with his camera are better than what you can actually see while you're doing the job! The long motor mount bracket bolts will probably snap on you so be ready for that, they did for me. Thanks again though, without this video I would've never been able to tackle this job!

[@hardlymovingpro]

Glad you found the video useful. To possibly prevent the bracket bolts from snapping, soak the area with penetrating oil (top and bottom), let sit overnight (if you have the patience), hit the bolt head with a hammer a few times ... then attempt to loosen back and forth.

[@troysixberry8828]

After watching this video I decided, that’s not a job I want to take on

[@chess1458]

@@troysixberry8828 same here

[@igorseprak6177]

I bought an older Toyota as my project car to experiment taking everything off and then putting it together. One by one. I am a fan of 1.8 L V4 Toyota engine and this 3.0 L V6.

[@hardlymovingpro]

Good for you with your project.

[@robertkennedy3230]

Thank you for this video. I am about to start my 05 RX330 tonight. The only difference is that my cam seals aren't leaking however since I am already going to be there, might as well replace them and not have to worry about down the road. I am also replacing my hydraulic tensioner with a new one. Planning to tackle this job in small chunks, couple of hours worth of work a day. My schedule is crazy busy at work, my estimate is that I will probably get it all done in 3 days total.

[@hardlymovingpro]

Good idea to replace the seals ... even if they're not leaking. They won't last to the next TB replacement The hydraulic tensioner, on the other hand, don't seem to wear out IMHO. Good luck with the repair! You'd be saving a lot of $$$ doing it yourself.

[@heidisemadeni5322]

Awesome video, best I have every seen, especially on this topic! I was able to do all the work myself. Thanks for listing the tools used in the video description. I was able to complete the job in 6 hours, I was expecting 15 hours! I did have an issue with a seal leaking, not sure which one yet, as I will be re-doing the job again in the morning, but it will go much faster now that I have done in once. Dealership wanted $2600 to do the seals, pump, bearings, belt, etc. I did it for about $600 (including tools)! The next change will cost even less! Thanks for making recommendations on the type of belt, water pump and bearing manufacturers that were best. The kit I bought had everything your recommended and it turned out to be exactly what I took off! Thank you so much!

[@hardlymovingpro]

Good for you and thanks for sharing your repair experience!

[@stephensgate1]

I like how you do things. You’re organized, clean and make everything look simple. Very impressed. -Stephen, Ohio 🇺🇸

[@hardlymovingpro]

Thanks for you post and support!

[@keanudawson8657]

I know im asking randomly but does anybody know of a trick to get back into an Instagram account..? I was dumb forgot the password. I would love any help you can offer me!

[@cesardevin9454]

@Keanu Dawson instablaster ;)

[@keanudawson8657]

@Cesar Devin I really appreciate your reply. I got to the site thru google and Im in the hacking process atm. Seems to take quite some time so I will get back to you later when my account password hopefully is recovered.

[@cmscott]

I can't say just how much this video helped me! I watched parts of it more than 10 times while doing my own. It took me... a VERY long time, but I took my time, didn't have all the proper tools, and watched a ton of other videos during the project. I found the video extremely informative. My only suggestion would be to add (if possible) torque specs for anything you used (or should have used) a torque wrench on. I found myself stopping many times to look up proper specs. I learned that a good, long pipe will go a LONG way (no pun intended) in giving the leverage needed at times. I also learned (when I didn't have a seal cup press) that you can press seals with your own DIY tool made from PVC, a few washers, and a 60mm size 12 mm , 1.25 bolt. The paint can opener worked very well on the crankshaft seal, and the Lisle seal remover tool worked great on the camshafts pulleys' seals. Here are a few other pointers for anyone else who might attempt this (no particular order): -You should definitely do a coolant flush BEFORE you start the project. You're going to be evacuating the coolant anyway, and doing the flush BEFORE you put on a new pump and gasket is good practice so you don't immediately contaminate your new equipment. -Get proper torque specs BEFORE you start. -Some people zip-tie the belt in place...but I much prefer the small clamp method. Also, clip the belt to itself to keep over the top of the crankshaft to keep it from slipping off the crankshaft, prior to installing tensioner. -When you align all pulleys at TDC, make SEVERAL marks with nail polish, white-out, whatever. Be sure to mark TDC, but also mark at 3,6, and/or 9 o'clock so you can see various positions during re-alignment. This is especially helpful on the left/real camshaft pulley. -Buy 3 camshaft seals, and perhaps two crankshaft seals...if you bodger one of them, you won't have to wait to get a new one. Sure, there's a cost added if you do it right the first time, but the peace of mind is worth it. Take your time. I had a good experience, mostly thanks to this video!

[@hardlymovingpro]

Wonderful story on your experience doing this repair! You lived and you learned!

[@jasonwashington5631]

Just off this video alone, I had to subscribe.

[@hardlymovingpro]

Thanks for your post and glad you found THIS video useful!

[@randycordle461]

This is the BEST mechanic tutorial I have ever viewed! Great job! I will be subscribing to your channel for sure.

[@hardlymovingpro]

Thanks!

[@narlycharley]

I wanted to thank you for assembling this video and being so detailed. I followed it step for step with my 04' ES330. The only real hiccup I ran into was that one of the two long bolts that go through the aluminum side engine mount snapped off. I ended up getting a new bracket and bolt from Toyota for about $45. I also made my own cam seal pressing tool with PVC tubing, some washers, and a bolt to thread into the cams.

[@hardlymovingpro]

Thanks for your comment. Yes, those long bolts for the side engine mount can sometimes be a problem getting loose. Fortunately, I've never had one shear off ... very close to it though.

[@Mrgrumpypants84]

But how the hell did you get the old one off? I have the same situation and it is proving to be the most pain in the ass piece of hardware i have ever had to remove in my entire life so far...

[@hardlymovingpro]

@@Mrgrumpypants84 You have to go underneath the car and spray penetrating oil at the bottom of the mount hole. Then give it a couple of hours for the oil to seep. Also hit the top of bolt with a hammer a few times to jar the bolt. When attempting to twist the bolt loose, if the bolt gives way a little, apply penetrating oil and re-tighten. Keep doing this and the bolt will gradually loosen. Another way is to apply heat to the mounting hole with a propane torch. This is a common technique for removing stubborn, rusty exhaust flange nuts and bolts. Here's an example video: kzbin.info/www/bejne/gpPIcpStp6qIbbM

[@abyssalsoul6216]

One of the bolts broke on me as , BUT I was ready and bought two new bolts from the dealer as well as the lower bracket prior. I still have the lower bracket in the garage somewhere. Corrosion in the bolts holes in the brackets usually is the reason for the difficulty in removing them so upon reinstallation I was very liberal with grease in those holes ( after cleaning them ) and also around the bolts heads to prevent water from going down. If you plan to lube the bolts including the threads don't forget to back off the torque value a bit, around 15%or so.

[@hardlymovingpro]

Good to know! Don't have this problem with car's down south or near the ocean.

[@normcook9335]

I've done this job before (minus cam seals) about 8yrs ago and it seems daunting now. lol Thanks for video - excellent presentation. I have 102K miles on current belt and shop said they'll only replace water pump if needed - that seems to be false economy so I'll ask them to change it.

[@hardlymovingpro]

I highly recommend replacing the water pump since it's driven by the timing belt. Seized pump or worn pump bearings can snap a new belt.

[@normcook9335]

@@hardlymovingpro Thanks for the reply. Curious how the final crank pulley bolt is torqued.

[@elliotmello6756]

Hey brother, by far this is the best video I've seen on the 3.3L Toyota MZ engine, I have both a Highlander 3.3L & an Rx300 (3.0L) which this video covers both essentially. Absolutely the best videography, technical narration & explanation from beginning to end I've seen on this engine topic. Your obviously a pro and as an intermediate novice, who's watched numerous videos on this particular engine topic, I very much appreciate your time ,effort, & professionalism in every aspect of this video. Please continue to do more videos on the MZ series engine.

[@hardlymovingpro]

Thanks Elliot for your very kind and thoughtful comments! It's people like you that keeps me motivated to continue producing these DIY videos for DIY guys like you. Thanks again!

[@amullarney]

No bull...hits all the important marks. Excellent tutorial. I made a camshaft seal install tool (using camshaft gear bolt, regular plastic drain pipe... 1 7/8 OD, 5/8 deep, 1/4 inch plywood cap glued on with contact adhesive ) modeled on the tool used in video. Also a strap wrench using old timing belt.... looped.....bolted to a piece of metal piping... pure desperation after borrowed store tool that proved useless. Just installed seals and am feeling on top of this job for the first time. Probably wouldn't be here without this great video!

[@hardlymovingpro]

Yes ... you can produce makeshift tools to complete the cam seal replacement. PVC is commonly used by others and someone else posted using an old timing belt, like yourself, to come up with a strap tool to hold the cam sprockets. Thanks for your complementary remarks on this video!

[@jamesoiler2530]

Thank you for your generosity of heart to share this video. Just wrapped up my timing belt replacement. Watched your video through and then backed it up and stepped forward through the procedure 3-4 minutes at a time.

[@hardlymovingpro]

Thanks for sharing and glad to learn the video helped you out!

[@brimyster3615]

I was very concerned about doing this job myself because it looked too difficult. Your video gave me the direction I needed to get the job done. This is a top notch KZbin video. Thank you for sharing your knowledge and skills that God has blessed you with.

[@hardlymovingpro]

Glad the video helped and thanks for your post!

[@JWhitneyInc]

Just wanted to drop a comment and say thanks so much for this video. Just tackled the job yesterday on the wife's Toyota Highlander. The motor mount situation was slightly different, but all the other tips were pure gold in making it a manageable job. I think I would have lost my mind if I went into it blind.

[@hardlymovingpro]

Glad you found it useful!

[@akhtarkh]

Great camera work excellent details with excellent views. Looks like a professionally produced video.

[@hardlymovingpro]

Thanks much for your comment! We really appreciate it! My partner and I want to produce the highest quality video possible and we try to make every new video better than before. Takes a lot of work and time to produce but comments like yours keep us motivated!

[@Lessonsmadefun64]

I did it! Excellent video! Thank you for all the hard work you put into this! I'm impressed the the quality, conciseness, and the fact that you responded to every comment below. I did my first ever TB job on 2004 Sienna w/ 180K mi using your video and website instructions and got it done. Used all OEM parts. Unfortunately, the first time around, I didn't get the camshaft seals pressed in all the way (didn't have the tool you used) and had a big oil leak when I took it for a drive. So I did it ALL over again, this time using the seal tool. However, when aligning the crankshaft, I used the wrong mark, and it was 1/4 turn off TDC. When I tried to start it (2 turns of the key) it turned over but would't start, so I charged the battery; while waiting and double checking everything, noticed my crankshaft positioning error, so I re-positioned everything properly, re-installed the battery, and it started right up. Its seems to be running fine, and no misfire codes. My question is: COULD I HAVE BENT VALVES BY TRYING TO START THE CAR (BUT FAILING) WHEN THE TIMING WAS OFF? I'm a bit paranoid about it, and perhaps it is my imagination, but it seems like the engine feels like its vibrating a bit when accelerating up hills. No backfires. No engine codes. No leaks, and the engine sounds fine. Also, recently replaced the dogbone, so I don't think that is a potential cause for the vibration. Should I get it compression tested, or am I being neurotic?

[@hardlymovingpro]

If the valves were bent, your car would running with very low power and likely with a ticking noise. Consider doing a pressure fuel injection cleaning service. One dirty or clogged injector will reduce a lot of power. I did a video on how to do it.

[@hardlymovingpro]

Vibration could be worn motor mounts. I did a video on how to replace them.

[@ham5483]

I dont even own a toyota but this was so well made i watched the whole thing, excellent video

[@hardlymovingpro]

Thanks! Glad you enjoyed it!

[@chris345764]

Awesome video really appreciate you walking us through every step amazing job I recently got a sienna with almost 300,000 miles and the original timing belt I don't know how it's still holding on there's nothing left to it 😲😳

[@hardlymovingpro]

Glad to help!

[@MrTravisAl]

Did you do it yet?

[@gabrielzuniga2098]

Thank you so much! I'm a novice when it comes to doing my own mechanic work. But done pretty good so far, could not figure where there was a leak in my 06 sienna, but I'm guessing it's those seals?? Going to be replacing power steering pump, so while I'm down there....thank you again, awesome video!!!

[@hardlymovingpro]

Good for you. FWI - If you willing to give it a try, replenishing the power steering reservoir with new ps fluid with "stop leak", after around 5 weaks, could seal up the leak in the pump.

[@bobp4036]

This is a great video showing the steps on this job. One of the best repair videos I've seen. I've done the belt on my 97 Camry and chain on 90 Toyota pickup but this will be my first attempt on a V6 in my 04 Highlander. Nice to see the tools needed as you use them. Got a few things to put together before I start, like where did I put the anti-sieze? Onto the list it goes. 63 people missed when hitting the like button and shouldn't attempt this repair.

[@hardlymovingpro]

Glad it helped!

[@abyssalsoul6216]

Thanks for the paint tin opener trick. I used it to remove all three seals. My seals appeared fine but with 168k on my 06 Sienna and doing the timing belt for the second time I cringe at the thought of not changing them. The timing belt seems fine also but it is 7 years since Its been put on. Thanks for the video!!

[@hardlymovingpro]

Good job! The paint can lid removal tool is an old trick and works. Best to be on the side of caution and replace the seals while you have the chance. Belts are tricky determining if they're okay or not. They degrade internally so you can't tell by appearances.

[@farasmaroge93]

Man this dude is such an expert. Makes it seem soo easy. I am using this as a guide however nuts and bolts are rusty and hard on my car. A 2007 year old car. I used to dismantle a couple of parts off of cars so I got some experience. You can do it you just have to be patient, take ur time, and it'll work out. I'll start up my car tomorrow.

[@hardlymovingpro]

Thanks for sharing and good luck with the job!

[@joegotyoutuification]

Do you realize every shop bosses and shop mechanics -ate you for what you're doing.....and I love it!!! Most of them are crocks.

[@hardlymovingpro]

True ... but there's a lot of people who don't want to get their hands dirty and learn the basics; hence there's plenty of potential customers to rip off.

[@alfong8279]

Wow, you are one very organized mechanic, thanks for the very informative video!

[@hardlymovingpro]

Thanks for watching!

[@lutimletap648]

Great video. Keep up the good work. Two hang ups for me. First the small bolt on the tensioner behind the power steering bracket got almost stripped as I was using a 3/8” socket instead of 1/4” I watched the video multiple times and then noticed. Got new bolt. The other one was the Mitsuboshi belt got mounted in the opposite direction and the marks on the crankshaft wouldn’t line up. Then read the real small print direction the belt came with identified the orientation. Runs much quieter than before. Thank you

[@hardlymovingpro]

Congratulations on a successful belt replacement job!

[@Nvable]

I know this is 3 yrs old but them tips about keeping the belt from coming off are great.

[@hardlymovingpro]

Thanks!

[@Black-nv8yw]

This is a professional technician!

[@hardlymovingpro]

Thanks!

[@phillipcharette]

This is a great video and follows everything step by step. I watched the video all the way through first then had my laptop next to the vehicle and paused at each step. The car runs like a top now and is very smooth and quiet. I would recommend that you mark each part using masking tape and a marker so you can backtrack and don't have left over parts. I labeled over 70 parts removed to do this job. I had the Haines manual but only used it to get torque specs. Overall, an excellent video to get the job done. Thank you so much.

[@hardlymovingpro]

Glad it all worked out for you and thanks for sharing!

[@pascualegamas2138]

This is the best mechanic!!👌👌

[@yasharenner6681]

Well I found the bolt (it fell into the large-diameter hole just behind the brake!), and I got everything back together and drove to work today :) The car is running very well. I want to thank you for answering all my questions, and so promptly, every step of the way. I couldn't have done this job without you! So thanks again.

[@hardlymovingpro]

Great news! Was wonder how things were working out for you. Very satisfying doing the job yourself and saving money as well?

[@yasharenner6681]

@@hardlymovingpro It was a lot of fun. I will be ready to do it again in another 90k. Best of all, now I have a good set of tools come time to replace brakes.

[@hardlymovingpro]

You should do a spark plug replacement job.

[@yasharenner6681]

@@hardlymovingpro Yes, is it more difficult than TB? Toyota recommends replacement at 120,000 miles, which is just around the corner.

[@hardlymovingpro]

For me, it's easier. Can do in under 3 hours. Here's the video: kzbin.info/www/bejne/rJTdhX1jpaaJipo

[@Roadghost88]

This is the best KZbin video on this job for Toyota's 3.X engines. Properly done, highlights the quirks of the job and shows the innovation necessary to get it done. Done this several times on my Hyundai and it's never fun. About to do my first on my Toy. I look forward to the day when cars no longer have timing belts. Thanks for posting.

[@hardlymovingpro]

Thanks for your critique and support ... appreciate it! My video partner and I do spend a lot of time making sure we don't skip any steps, that the steps are in a logical order, identify specialty tools needed and slow the video down where needed. If interested, here's a video we did awhile ago on Toyota's 1MZFE V6 engine in a 97 Lexus ES300: kzbin.info/www/bejne/gZzNmHWMraeUm7c

[@hardlymovingpro]

Good point but when the chain stretches, it will eventually throw off the ignition timing and you'll get a camshaft or crankshaft position MIL (manufacturer indicator lamp ... or check engine) error code. You can reset the code as often as you want but it will keep coming back. I've seen this in Honda's and GM tri-chain V6's between 150 to 200K miles. If you decide to replace it, you need to replace it with new chain guides and tensioners. Compared to a worn out timing belt replacement, you're talking BIG, BIG $$$'s to do the repair. The timing chain cover is matted to the engine block with a whole lot of bolts, pulleys and brackets are in front if it which require removal, the cover to block sealant must be wire brushed off before resealing, a bunch of seals and gaskets must be replaced and the cost of parts is around 2.5 to 3X that of a timing belt kit. I did a TB replacement on a V6 Kia Sportage with 170K miles on the original belt .... that's right 170K miles! I wonder if a timing chain engine would last that long without stretching?

[@Roadghost88]

@@hardlymovingpro My Buick had 217,000 miles. Original timing chain. Still ran like a champ. But I would prefer gears. Surely they can get past the harmonics in this day and age.

[@hardlymovingpro]

That's probably an low rpm, "lazy 8" overhead valve (OHV) engine which has a short timing chain tying the crankshaft to the camshaft located in the center of the engine (unlike a OHC above the cylinder head). The longer the chain, the more links to wear; hence more noticeable effects of a stretched chain. Buicks are a GM product. Their current all aluminum OHC V6 is a 3 chain drive system and they generally can't make it to 200K miles before encountering chain stretch problems. Also, you're lucking to make it to 100k miles before encountering timing chain cover oil leaks (low quality sealant matting the cover to the block). Total labor time to re-seal a cover ... about 6.5 hours ... add 2 more hours to replace the chain, guides and tensioners. About $2K parts and labor at a dealership.

[@peterlansdale1793]

I didn't have trouble getting the crankshaft pulley bolt off with a spritz of PB blaster and my battery powered DeWalt XR, and a normal impact 22 mm socket. - highly recommend hand cranking the engine one revolution after timing belt installation to check tdc before reassembling everything A thousand thank yous for making this video in all its Glory

[@hardlymovingpro]

Thanks for sharing and glad it worked out for you!

[@findfixxflip]

im defititely impressed with the level of detail. I recently rebuilt a solara for a friend with the 3mz-fe engine. I have a feeling that im going to have to do the water pump. I have 20 some years working on cars but this is like a live chiltons manual i can follow instead of having to read along. The car has 198,000 miles on it and i doubt any seals have been changed on it. I real don't want to do cam seals, but since car is going to be all the way apart i might as well. I want to say thank you for putting in the time to show people this stuff it really helps a ton of people.

[@findfixxflip]

and i subscribed also

[@hardlymovingpro]

Thanks for your complimentary post ... do appreciate it! With 200k on the Solara, definitely replace the oil seals. You won't have any regrets.

[@findfixxflip]

@@hardlymovingpro no problem. damn im defintitely not looking forward to it. I had to do a timing on a crown vic and that was a pain in the ass.

[@hardlymovingpro]

If you have the right tools on hand, it's not that bad.

[@findfixxflip]

@@hardlymovingpro i have most of them but i hate how there is so little room to access everything.

[@makhan8620]

Thanks again for a wonderful detailed video on the procedure. Recently, I got your channel when I saw your videos on the Lexus ES300 build project. Earlier I had your website reviewed for the detailed 1MZFE timing belt and water pump replacement. That helped me a lot especially with the timing adjustments while mounting the new belt. That was quite tedious and took the longest to get in full alignment. I think in your ES300 video, your technique of installing the tensioner without compressing was awesome, and that works well with the 1MZFE design. 3MZFE tensioner installation is similar to Honda's where the bolts are installed laterally and so the piston will need compressed first. Just to share my thoughts about 5SFE (I4) and 1MZFE (v6), it seems like the Timing belt job on a 1MZFE v6 is a bit easier than the 5SFE.

[@hardlymovingpro]

You know ... one of my friends asked me the same question ... isn't the V6 easier than the I4? Since the last 1MZFE job took me 2.5 hours to complete, I'd say yes. And you're right, you don't have to pre-tension the tensioner before installation. Saves a lot of time!

[@rich6573]

I have this starting issue with my 06 sienna XLE and people told me it can be the timing belt didn’t believe it but man this is a lot of work foreal!

[@hardlymovingpro]

If there was a belt jump your MIL lamp (check engine) would get set off. The error code would be cam or crankshaft position error.

[@chasedunk3278]

Bro absolutely the best timing belt kit guid for the 3mz-fe thanks for making it step by step I really appreciate you man

[@hardlymovingpro]

Glad it helped!

[@tomknud]

Great video! I don't know how you get that camera in to all those spots! or the wrenches. I wanted to hear it run afterwards though. Thanks for the video.

[@hardlymovingpro]

Thanks for your comment. We'll try to make a habit of starting the engine after we do a repair so you can hear it run.

[@paulanthonycerda2849]

Wonderful video and spectacular editing!! Thanks for charing your knowledge. I'll be getting a Sienna soon for the family and I like to always keep my vehicle in the best shape. I'll be studying your video. Thanks again 💪🏼

[@hardlymovingpro]

Thanks for your comments and support!

[@mycofairbanks3321]

hands down, the best instructional vid I have EVER seen.

[@hardlymovingpro]

Thanks!

[@sheckb1]

So following your video I successfully changed my timing belt, waterpump, seals, idlers, tensioner and accessory belts on my 1mzfe. The tensioner was the same as the one in this video. The belt on it still had all its markings visible and still seemed to be in good nick. So thanks for your help, and I'll be back in 5 years or 100,000kms.

[@hardlymovingpro]

Hey ... congratulations and good job! A dealer would have charged you around $1,200 for all that work!

[@sheckb1]

@@hardlymovingpro that was around one of the cheaper quotes I got. The only issue I had really was whichever seal I tried to put on the back cam, the lip on the inside kept folding out. So I poked it back in with a tiny screwdriver and made sure it was flush. But all in all it went well. Had no trouble whatsoever removing the harmonic balancer.

[@hardlymovingpro]

@@sheckb1 That's why I use di-electric grease when putting on the cam seal. Also, I don't push the seal on but rather twist it on. So $1,200 was a cheap quote?

[@sheckb1]

@@hardlymovingpro the seals actually came pre-greased. But yeah it was only that one seal. The other 2 were fine. I tried both cam sesls on that back cam and they both did the same thing only on that cam. But yeah, quotes I got were $650 (dealers mates rates), $1,200, $1,500 and $2,200. So I got out of it pretty well I'd say.

[@hardlymovingpro]

I guess that the rear cam may have had some corrosion or old seal residue on it to prevent the new seal from slipping on. I like to wipe it down with brake clean before putting on the new seal. Up to $2,200 for a TB / WP job! Unreal!

[@rogersheldon9011]

Best video ever. All you mechanics out there have my respect and gratitude. I can do minor repairs, but pretty much everything in this video is way beyond my capabilities.

[@hardlymovingpro]

Thanks! Only way to learn how to swim is to dive in with both feet.

[@godfirst6880]

Just did this YESTERDAY, lasted me 12 hours after a couple of errors. Just a few tips below to SAVE TIME and effort: 7:14 If you want to get to that TOP bolt on the hydraulic thing, you can take off the bolt that holds the power steering and MOVE the power steering out the way completely. It's located at about 1 o clock above the power steering wheel. It will make it easier to reach that top bolt. I spent like 2 hours trying to get that one bolt(to the hydraulic thing) off, and nearly rounded it because the power steering couldn't be moved out the way no move..so I unbolted the power steering altogether! 20:48 BEFORE putting those two covers on, line them up outside the car and see if ONE bolt goes into BOTH covers. The mistake I made was I put the TOP timing cover on, put all the bolts in, then tried putting on the BOTTOM cover and saw there was a bolt in the top cover that also went for the bottom cover.(So one bolt goes into BOTH covers.) Also.....The Sienna (2003 generation) take about 1 3/4 gallons of coolant, so YOU MUST BUY 2 gallons of coolant(pink coolant). I have changed timing belts for Early model Civics and CR-V, and lasted maybe 7-8 hours...but the Sienna has more wheels to work with, and it's tight (especially the back cam shaft, I didn't even do the seals, but it was very difficult to make sure it was on TDC...but it was done!)

[@hardlymovingpro]

Congratulations on DIY!

[@godfirst6880]

@@hardlymovingpro Thank you! Now it's time for me to do my 2003 Mitsubishi Spyder timing belt, should be easier.👍

[@hhn2002]

theres nothing that quite compares to the ease of working on hondas!

[@MrTravisAl]

To clarify. Remove power steering.. pump? power steering wheel = pulley?

[@godfirst6880]

@@MrTravisAl the power steering pump. The pulley is the wheel itself. So remove the whole power steering pump.

[@topflightmechanic8692]

I watched this video several every time I prepare to do this job again this video is the best one

[@hardlymovingpro]

Thanks and appreciate you post!

[@johnritchie4801]

This video is awesome The best I have seen Certainly learnt a thing or two and I have done a few Timing Belts

[@hardlymovingpro]

Thanks John! Appreciate your critique and comment!

[@peterlansdale1793]

The paint can opener trick was epic

[@hardlymovingpro]

Works all the time. Sometimes the tip may bend a little.

[@swordfish1120]

Great tips and camera angles. I just re-positioned my timing belt on my 06 Lexus RX330 because it was off timing after replacing it the first time and running the car. The rear cam sprocket was pain because it slips off its timing mark with little pressure put on the belt and I was doing this by myself. I ended up having to fabricate a bracket that holds the two cam sprockets in line with one another and the bracket bar bolts onto two of the timing cover center holes. This allowed me to set the timing belt because I was able to pull on it without the cam pulleys moving.

[@hardlymovingpro]

Good to hear it all worked out! Thanks for sharing.

[@OllieProphet]

It's a shame the cam pulley isn't drilled through to a tapped hole in the head whereby you could lock the cam in place with a simple bolt, while fussing with the belt? Seems like it would be a simple machining process during manufacturing to add that.

[@grebentsoff]

Thank you man! So much perfectly professionally explained and shown. Very helpful.

[@hardlymovingpro]

Thanks!

[@GoneFishingWithEd]

It's one of the best tutorials I have watched on youtube! Thanks so much for making this video!

[@hardlymovingpro]

Glad you found the video helpful!

[@GoneFishingWithEd]

@@hardlymovingpro Are all three seals the same or are the two on top the same and the lower seal by the balancer different?

[@hardlymovingpro]

@@GoneFishingWithEd cam seals the same; crank seal bigger.

[@GoneFishingWithEd]

​@hardlymovingpro lastly, that crank seal you replaced in this video.. that's the front seal? Just want to make sure I order the correct seals.. thanks again for your help!

[@496fern]

omg no wonder y the labor of replacing timing belt is expensive. Thanks for sharing this great video

[@hardlymovingpro]

thanks for your post and comment!

[@rolandroland1485]

How much ??

[@hardlymovingpro]

@@rolandroland1485 What I normally charge is $650 parts and labor ... which is about half of what the dealers charge. And I'm using OE (original equipment) Bando or Mitsuboshi Timing belt, GMB or Koyo bearings and Aisin water pump. If a new tensioner is requested, then it's a little bit more. Don't know who makes the seals. If the customer wants new belts (alternator and p/s) I don't charge extra for labor.

[@rolandroland1485]

Hardly Moving Productions that price is a steal ! You come to NY ?

[@hardlymovingpro]

@@rolandroland1485 I know. i'll go somewhere close to NYC. NY upstate is NG

[@MrFonzayyy]

screw those 46 people who unliked this video, you sir are a lifesaver ! GOD BLESS YOU! and keep doing what your doing so helpful !!

[@hardlymovingpro]

Thanks for you support and comment! Appreciate it!

[@danielvelezdiaz5851]

Huge job to get access,to just find out,it's a belt!!! Very good video.This helps a lot,to decide if you can do it,or pay a mechanic.

[@hardlymovingpro]

Glad you found the video useful!

[@NinoMann-w2c]

Thank you! Fantastic video. Every bolt and every angle clearly explained and filmed. I watched a lot of different videos before doing my timing belt, but yours got me through it. My car’s running great. So, thank you!

[@hardlymovingpro]

You bet and thanks for sharing!

[@PeterHernandez-lg2eh]

Best video out there

[@ao2528]

Excellent video, perfect explanation, and very good editing, also easy to understand the content, thanks.

[@hardlymovingpro]

Thanks. Glad you liked it.

[@timsouttahere]

Watching this video and just now realized you're in Memphis. I'm about 20 minutes away in Oakland. Small world

[@hardlymovingpro]

I'm guessing not that many youtube posters from the Memphis area?

[@timsouttahere]

@@hardlymovingpro heck idk I just happened to notice 😅

[@gerardvandenbosch5059]

Thank you for this video! Will have to use it soon for replacement of the belt on my Sienna 2005. Well done!

[@hardlymovingpro]

Glad it helped!

[@codykappes1636]

Thank you for making this video bro. Just got done doing the job and it runs beautifully.

[@hardlymovingpro]

Thanks for sharing your successful belt and water pump replacement experience!

[@timjerome8942]

man what a monster of a job that is, great close ups and video. Thanks for all the hard work that went into this!

[@hardlymovingpro]

Thanks for your post and you kind comments!

[@AH-le3py]

Being a surgeon is an easy job then this, u r a genius. Dr.Hussain

[@hardlymovingpro]

Thanks!

[@GEARMOAUTO]

Yo you put my videos to shame. Excellent production. I have a sienna and will be doing mine soon. Thank you

[@hardlymovingpro]

Thanks! Lots of work making a video. About 1 hour of editing for each minute of video.

[@d-s-ll2378]

This kind of proficiency is rare! genius use of leverage for undoing the seal! 👏👏👏👏

[@hardlymovingpro]

Thanks!

[@petedesv]

Great job. I appreciate you clean the parts and covers

[@hardlymovingpro]

Thanks and always clean parts when the opportunity presents itself. Also, it makes it easier to identify sources of leaks (coolant and oil) when they occur.

[@Paddle-N-Fish]

Great video! I am looking to buy a used sienna, and after seeing this, I think I will spend a little more and get the 3.5 with the chain :)

[@hardlymovingpro]

Good decision. The 3.5 provides both better power and fuel efficiency.

[@Mrjoker622]

Thank you so much may God bless you for sharing your knowledge

[@johnschwerdt6671]

You are truly gifted, great video...I was able to follow you with clear video and instruction. Thank you

[@hardlymovingpro]

Glad you found it helpful!

[@ryanmiller2905]

Fabulous video. The best auto repair video I’ve ever watched.

[@hardlymovingpro]

Thanks 👍

[@tint661]

Thanks for a no BS video. You do a good job.

[@hardlymovingpro]

I appreciate that!

[@billiebowling7755]

Very very informative vidio. Good lighting. Love it. Question? What all can you leave on if I just needed to replace water pump

[@hardlymovingpro]

The cam sprockets. Can pull out the pump by loosening the 10 mm bolts holding on the backing plate

[@robeldagne8553]

Great work and u made it easy to learn not complicated at all!!!

[@hardlymovingpro]

Thanks for sharing and glad it worked out for you!

[@robertosontay9879]

Thank you very much to show everything and to share your knowledge about timing belt change great job great video .God bless you 4ever

[@hardlymovingpro]

Thanks Roberto for your post! Appreciate your comment and support!

[@asianlovebug582]

This is one of the best engines ever made.

[@hardlymovingpro]

True but it's 3.5L replacement is even better!

[@jamesdeubanks]

Well done video! Thank you for your labor. I know shooting a how to video makes a job take twice as long. Absolutely wonderful produced.

[@hardlymovingpro]

Thanks and appreciate your comment!

[@agunslinger9349]

As others have said, great detail, explanation and camera work so helpful. Question, isnt there a third power steering bolt (just out of view at 12 oclock position on PS pump pulley, at 1:24 timepoint) that also has to be loosened to get PS pump to move? On a recent belt replacement it wouldnt budge and discovered a third bold up top.

[@hardlymovingpro]

Sorry. Don't recall.

[@hhn2002]

about to preform this job myself, super helpful. THANK YOU! something to note, those cam and crank seals are meant to seal oil, no way they are made of natural rubber that swell in the presence of petroleum they are usually made of synthetic material like ptfe, buna, or nitrile.

[@hardlymovingpro]

You may be technically correct but found removing them years later goes easier than petroleum based lubricants.

[@liamwatt4840]

Great instructional video. Have you tried removing the side engine bracket and the upper bracket as one unit? I am working on a 02 Sienna and the upper bracket mount bolt towards the rear is frozen. I tried heating the bolt from underneath for about a minute or two , but no luck. Wondering if removing lower bracket with the upper bracket attach is possible?

[@hardlymovingpro]

Yes ... you could do that. May have trouble lining up on the reinstall.

[@liamwatt4840]

@@hardlymovingpro Thanks for the quick response. Once off, I will try and separate the pieces before installing.

[@andresgarcia7757]

I had a Toyota dealer fix my snapped timing belt, when I took the car back home after they fixed the car started leaking oil like crazy, they claimed it was not their doing but agreed to fix the car free of charge, the oil was coming out of where the timing belt goes. A few months forward I see a slow leak coming from the timing belt area. Your video clearly shows how the timing belt is replaced and makes me think they didn't set the camshaft seals right. Thank you so much for posting this!! Now I have to figure out what to do... fight the sealer again or get another car since mine is already 256.000 miles young.

[@hardlymovingpro]

If the car wasn't leaking bad BEFORE they did the repair, how can they claim it's not they're fault? There's two camshaft seals. If they're not installed properly, they will leak very badly. If the seals are not evenly pressed in they will leak; the seal could turn inside out if no carefully set on the sprocket shaft before they're pressed it. Possible dealer excuses: It's your rear valve cover gasket that's leaking ... it's your power steering pump that's leaking (check the ps fluid level). It usually the ps hose clamps that's lost it's clamping force that's causing it to leak.

[@andresgarcia7757]

Thank you thank you! The ps fluid was fine, the car was a bit low on oil and the oil seems to be coming from the belt cover so that’s why I think they did something wrong! Thank you for your advice!!!

[@hardlymovingpro]

@@andresgarcia7757 No problem.

[@dallasclement4682]

Thanks tons for this awesome how to video! I'm in a bit of a pickle. One of those E8 star head studs on the water pump was seized up and I managed to strip the star head. Any tips on how to extract this stripped stud?

[@hardlymovingpro]

Use a stud extractor tool. Here's a link to it in Amazon: amzn.to/3zqMoVH

[@dallasclement4682]

@@hardlymovingpro I happened to order one of these last night and it got here today. Worked like a champ! Thank you!

[@nahumsalinas5312]

Thank you man! This is a great video, very detailed and very professional.

[@hardlymovingpro]

Glad you enjoyed it!

[@dallasclement4682]

After completing the timing belt change including replacing of the camshaft seals, I took my 2006 Sienna out for a test drive. It sounded great, drove great, and no check engine light. I was feeling pretty pleased with my work. Then I got home and inspected the vehicle. I noticed oil dripping from passenger side of the engine. Presumably it is coming from that back cam shaft seal. I used the seal press you recommended and turned it til it bottomed out. It looked like it was seated well. I am super bummed I have to do this job all over again now. Not sure what I did wrong for that seal to leak. Is it possible I pressed it too much?

[@hardlymovingpro]

Could be the inner lip of the seal may have turned inside out during installation. I lubricated both the camshaft and the seal and slowly spin the seal on in place before using the press tool.

[@dallasclement4682]

@@hardlymovingpro Thanks for the tip. Looks like that was exactly the problem. Replaced that seal again, and this time it did not leak.... This van is back in business again. Thanks again for the super helpful video. Big lesson learned from this is to be very careful with those seals to make sure they are seated correctly and don't over press them!!

[@terryzak1742]

Another great video of yours. I did the same work on my wife's 2008 Solara with the 3.3 engine, and everything was exactly the same. Of course I would have preferred to have watched this video first!

[@hardlymovingpro]

Thanks Terry! My world record for doing this job occurred last weekend ... 2.5 hrs!

[@terryzak1742]

Wow, that's amazing. When I did my wife's Solara, I also pulled the intake to change the plugs, and changed the gasket on the valley/coolant cover plate. I did have issues with the cam bolts being tight, thinking to myself "Wow, I'm getting old and am losing my strength!" Thanks again for such high-quality tutorials.

[@hardlymovingpro]

Believe me ... do this timing belt job a couple dozen times and you will get fast. With respect to cam bolts, they are on pretty tight and takes some leverage (breaker bar) to get them loose.

[@abyssalsoul6216]

Terry , might I ask what FIPG (sealant) did you use on the coolant cover plate ( water inlet housing) ?@@terryzak1742

[@terryzak1742]

@@abyssalsoul6216 I'm not a fan of sealants and prefer gaskets or o-rings, but since none are available for this application I used the Toyota brand "Seal Packing 103", p/n 00295-00103. Naturally I removed any trace of prior sealant from both halves, cleaned gently with Scitchbrite and then brake cleaner. I also remember after running the bead, allowing some cure time before the final torque. Tried to do everything possible to prevent a leak, since it's so burried. Also changed the hose that runs the length of that valley. Kind Regards, Terry

[@john9878]

Great video ! Unfortunately i had an oil leak when i finished ,which i thought was the rear(left) cam seal. Took it all apart again , it looked fine , no oil on back of metal cover , seal or belt . Started to look at upper oil pan because the FIPG toyota seal was deteriorating . Actually found some of it in the oil pickup screen. Took that all apart, which was more troublesome than the timing belt etc. I removed lower drain pan and the upper oil pan and resealed everything. It's gotta be the cam seal or rear valve cover gasket( replaced the valve cover gaskets 2018 )? This is a 2005 XLE Sienna 3.3L

[@hardlymovingpro]

Most likely the rear valve cover gasket.

[@john9878]

@@hardlymovingpro put some dye in today, looks like valve cover gasket. Keep up the good work !!

[@john9878]

@@hardlymovingpro its the rear cam shaft seal, dye was all over it. any chance i pressed it in to far with that tool?

[@Nick_the_mechanic]

About to do this tomorrow at work. Should be easy and fun

[@hardlymovingpro]

Sounds good ... have fun!

[@davidthurman3963]

Amazingly well edited

[@hardlymovingpro]

Thanks!

[@marcprivitera595]

If I could bother you for another question? I finally got the timing belt, cam seals, crank seal and water pump together. I noticed a pretty bad leak in the power steering pump so I swapped that as well. I needed a flex head rachetting box to get the high pressure line bolt out.....anyway, what would be the symptoms of the engine if I missed by one belt notch ? I swear I triple checked the marks. I checked the back cam mark with a mirror. I followed your trick on your video to make placing the belt easier. I had the two solid white marks on the belt right where they should be. I had both cams right on the hash marks. The crank was lined up on the on the rear dot (which was my original question below) and it was right on the mark on the block. I even figured out what the dot on the front of the crank sprocket was for as it lined up perfectly with the dashed line on the belt. The reason I am asking is that the valves sound a little noisier now, or what I think are the valves tapping a little louder. Is this indicative of me having missed by a notch ? The vehicle runs almost perfect down the road, but should I be concerned about what appears to be a little more tapping noise of the valves ?

[@hardlymovingpro]

If the belt were off a cog, your check engine light would go on with the error code indicating a camshaft position error. Check all your vacuum lines for any vacuum leaks. After a big repair, human nature is to get focused on things they usually wouldn't give a 2nd thought ... especially noise related.

[@Ionlyexistpardner.]

7:19 Is there a bolt to be remove so that power steering pump bracket will be push downward and have an access on the bolt holding the tensioner of the timing belt.

[@hardlymovingpro]

Nope. The pump is moving on a pivot bolt.

[@nickc7039]

Very thorough and to the point. Great vid. Liked and subscribed. Appreciate it man

[@hardlymovingpro]

Thanks!

[@jeremyking3986]

I just bought an 05 with 150k miles, I was told by previous owner the timing belt was done, but I can’t verify. Thinking of doing all this just for preventative maintenance.

[@hardlymovingpro]

Unfortunately no real way to verify.

[@B4Dtouchmmotors]

hey man i need some help. i just did the timing belt on a 06 camry with the same 3.3l engine. its timed but now it wont start. do you know what could have happened?

[@danielwurmer2266]

I did mine recently. This video was excellent to follow! The van started but had a ticking noise and a slight vibration at idle. Also after turning it off after a minute it would not start again easily. I had to turn the key a couple of times till it fired back up. I went back and reinstalled the belt. I am really sure my marks are all lined up correctly but still the same problem, ticking noise, slight vibration and rough starting. Any ideas?? Help would be much appreciated! We are a family of five and this is our only transportation. I am really scared this car dies on me now.

[@hardlymovingpro]

If the belt is out of time your check engine light would come on. Ticking might be pistons kissing stuck valves.

[@danielwurmer2266]

@@hardlymovingpro thanks for the reply. We had to take it for a drive for 60min. And the vibration is gone now and the ticking is not as noisy anymore, but still there. Also, it seems to start normal now. How bad would it be if it is pistons "kissing" stuck valves? It obviously can't be good, but how bad are we talking about? Is permanent damage done or can it be still dealed with?

[@hardlymovingpro]

Nothing to worry about.

[@danielwurmer2266]

@@hardlymovingpro Thanks again! After driving frequently now for a couple days, I happily can report that the car is running as smoothly as ever! This video was great to follow and I placed my phone beside the car and worked through it step by step. Here are a couple things I would like to add for everyone attempting this repair: As others mentioned, the long bolts of the engine mount bracket can be a pain in the butt. I ordered both brackets and bolts ahead of time as precaution and I am glad I did! Even though I did everything recommended to loosen the bolts, I broke off both bolts and I needed a ton of force to seperate the brackets and broke them as well in the process! Be ready for that! I didn't have the can opener tool to remove the seals, but I do a lot of woodwork, so I used a 2 inch deck screw to screw right into the seal. I carefully used a impactdriver with a right angle attatchment for access and once you pierce through the metal of the seal, give it two more turnes by hand and use pliers or literally a clawhammer to pull out the seal. Works like a charm and takes only a minute. Just be careful to be in the center of the seal so you don't scratch the sidewalls. I didn't have the tool to press in the seal evenly. Instead I used some wood scraps, like 2x4's and plywoodscraps and diffrent size forstnerbits to make "wooden washers". In combination with the bolts for the cam/crank shaft you can easily create your own seal press tool in no time. Also, in real life it is impossible to line up the marks on the rear camshaft due to the lack of space. You just can't place your melon where it needs to be. But you can shove your phone back in there and make a picture which then helps you to get everything lined up properly. Or you get a cheep telescoping inspection mirror which worked just as good if not better (very cheap at Harbor freight tools or Princess auto for canada, $5-10!) Overall, don't be afraid of this repair, it is a lot of work but nothing impossible. If I was able to do it in my driveway so can you! Just take your time (two days) and work through it step by step with this video. And make sure you have all the tools needed and the parts ready. (I recommend to order/buy those bolts/brackets and extra seals, they cost just a couple bucks but they are easy to mess up accidentally.) Good luck!

[@yasharenner6681]

Doing this job in 2 days! Now I am wondering if I need to buy a new crankshaft pulley bolt. Not sure if mine (year 2004) is TTY and must be replaced. Did you reuse the bolt? Thanks.

[@hardlymovingpro]

It's not a TTY bolt. TTY bolts are mostly used to mate aluminum cylinder heads to aluminum engine blocks.

[@gillipop62]

Nice job. Really good video sequence and annotated notes.

[@hardlymovingpro]

Glad you enjoyed it!

[@dallasclement4682]

How do you recommend retorquing that crank shaft bolt after getting the new timing belt on? I used an impact wrench to get it off. I'm tempted to use the same to get it back on, but imagine there is a better way.

[@hardlymovingpro]

Just impact it back on. It won't loosen up.

[@MA-bx2ev]

I met up with this gentleman last week to do my Toyota Highlander timing belt, pump and seals. It took him around 3 1/2 hours and the price was right!! This is a precision job folks and if you can find a way and go see David to do it for you. Also, be wary of shops that charge too little.

[@hardlymovingpro]

Thanks!

[@nathanbarlown764]

Hello. I have a situation of the timing belt being broke. How do I determine top dead center to try and line everything up again?

[@hardlymovingpro]

It's all explained in the video.

[@kermitalexander6655]

Well I guess I'm going to the dealer after all ☹️☹️ great video sir✌️

[@hardlymovingpro]

Try independent repair shops that deal with foreign car repairs. If they're also willing to allow you provide the replacement parts, they're probably a honest shop.

[@waynerogers6621]

You may be shocked at the price a dealer will charge you. I was expecting 8-9 hundred not 1,600.I have a call in to my local independent guy to get a quote from him.

[@hardlymovingpro]

@@waynerogers6621 I agree and don't get it. An experienced mechanic at the dealership should be able to do this job in around 5 hours ... less if not replacing the cam seals. If just a belt replacement only (no new seals, w/p and bearings), I could do it in around 2.5 hrs. Also, timing belts are cheap (under $50). Saw a video about a Cadillac owner with the V8 Northstar engine with a leaking oil pan. Dealer quoted over $4,500 for the repair ... his trusted local repair shop quoted $1,500. The guy fell off his chair!