Toyota Secondary Air Injection System Valve Replacement (Tundra 5.7L 3UR-FE V8)

Did our video help you? If so, consider buying us a beer: bit.ly/3feE6tJ
In this video we show you how to replace the Secondary Air Injection System Valve Set on 2008 Tundra with the 5.7 Liter 3UR-FE V8 Engine. We also show you how to remove the two secondary air injection system pumps to test them to see if they are working properly and then show you how to reinstall them.
*The 5.7 Liter 3UR-FE V8 Engine was used in the following models that will also have the secondary air injection system.
2007-2021 Toyota Tundra
2007-2022 Toyota Sequoia
2007-2021 Toyota Land Cruiser 200 Series - US and Middle East markets only
2007-2021 Lexus LX 570
*PARTS*
*Air Injection Valve Assembly #25701-38064
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*Air Injection Pipe Gasket #17376-38020 (Need 2 - these go between the valve set and the pipes on either side of it)
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*Air Pump Inlet Pipe #17621-0S012 (New design)
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*Air Injection Pipe Gasket #17377-0S010 (This is the one goes between pipe and exhaust manifold)
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*Air Injection Hoses #17341-38050 (These are the two short hoses that connect between the valve set and the plastic air injection pipes that run underneath the intake manifold)
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*Intake Manifold Gaskets #17171-0S030 (Need 2)
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*HELPFUL TOOLS*
If you're looking for other tools not used in this video, check out Timmy's Master Tool List.
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*Plastic Fastener Removal Tool
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*Stubby 3/8” Flex Head Ratchet - (it use to be available for sale separately but now we can only find it as part of this 4-piece set) amzn.to/39kQVit
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*Wheel Lug Nut Impact Socket Set
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*6 Ton Jack Stands
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*Heavy Duty Rubber Wheel Chock (This is just one. I recommend buying two) amzn.to/3lNC3MG
*Dewalt 1/2" Drive Impact Gun
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*Dewalt Batteries
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*CDI 1/2" Drive 30-250 Foot Pound Torque Wrench

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*Small Pick Tool Set
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*White Paint Pen
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**As Ebay Partner Network members, we earn commissions from qualifying purchases.
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[@prestonfreeman8443]

Wow! Youve Won! The most step by step how to replace a part video of the year award🎉💯. Thank you for dummies 😂

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Thanks for the nice compliment Preston. I appreciate it! You're very welcome and Happy Wrenching!

[@carmonaaa5782]

As a hispanic I love your use of the word chingadera perfectly lol!! Nice video and instructions!!

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Glad you appreciate my technical terminology. Glad you like the video. Thanks for the comment!

[@gbrianmullinax8448]

@@TimmyTheToolman Ive added a new word to my vocabulary!!

[@philipjames9558]

Just want to say thank you for such a thorough video. You have given me confidence to complete this myself and save hundreds if not thousands of dollars. Just take your time and be mindful not to break any of the many delicate electrical connectors that are exposed.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

You're very welcome Phillip. Good job saving yourself a bunch of money doing the job yourself. Happy Wrenching!

[@karlmadsen3179]

Your videos are very good. Clear. Loud (good sound). Well lit. Excellent editing (cutting out unnecessary stuff). Keep it up.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Thanks Karl. We appreciate the compliment.

[@rs1133]

So happy I found this video after seeing P2442 on my 2008 tundra. I only did the valve and not the pumps, but it still took me around 6-7 hours. I saw other videos, but only this one gave me the confidence to take on this job. As is the case with all projects, the right tools make all the difference. I had to go with what I had, but that certainly meant more time and curse words. As others mentioned, I was able to get the bolts off the exhaust pipe on the passenger side, but I couldn't get them back in so I ended up taking off the exhaust pipe anyway - as shown in the video. Could have saved an hour just following the video instructions - lesson learned. Having a second set of hands would also be a huge help during certain parts, but I was able to complete it all solo - again, just takes a bit more time. Thank you so much for the video!

[@TimmyTheToolman]

You're very welcome, Bobby. It's great to know our video helped you out. Who cares how long it took. You got it done on your own and saved a ton of money. A dealership would have suggested replacing the pumps as well, and you would have spent thousands on this repair. So, I say Great Job Bobby! Happy Wrenching!

[@mode1charlie170]

I feel like I owe you money after this great tutorial. Love how you described in detail how to remove those stubborn electrical connectors and plastic brackets. Im going to test the pumps without removing them if possible. I know my valves have issues so they are going to be replaced. I’ll leave the housing in place for simplicity though.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Your comment is payment enough. Glad our video helped you out. Good luck with the job. Happy Wrenching!

[@vjbavaro7526]

I don't even own a Toyota but I was highly impressed by the way you “methodically” explained and demonstrated how to replaced and reassemble the needed components to this Secondary Air Injection System. Ever thought of becoming an instructor?

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Thanks for the nice compliment. I appreciate it. No, I never thought about becoming an instructor, but in a way, I guess that's what I do with Sean and others. We instruct people how to perform jobs on their rigs.

[@durtoffmyshoulda]

Thanks for this detailed walk through! It gave me the confidence to get this done myself. 270,000 and going strong again

[@TimmyTheToolman]

You're very welcome Taylor. Great to know our video helped you get the job done. Happy Wrenching!

[@RailfanS1]

Thank you for such a great detailed tutorial. I was able to do the whole job in about 7 hours, with some fumbling around. Now my 2010 has all new OEM pumps, valve body, and intake and you saved me the $700 the dealer wanted for labor.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Great job doing the job yourself. I'm glad our video helped you out. Happy Wrenching!

[@benaldredge2671]

Great informative video as always. After watching this I appreciate the simplicity of my Tacoma’s 3.4l. Lol…”known for a having a long pipe”

[@Bane35755]

I'm glad this video was made, I replaced the pumps 2 years ago and now the switch valve needs replacement as I text. The temperature is 100 degrees here in Louisiana. Thanks

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Good luck with the job and drink lots of water.

[@davidd5269]

Extremely well done video. Appreciate the attention to detail and thoroughness. Also extremely easy to understand and no distracting music.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Thanks for the nice compliment David. We appreciate it!

[@nbenmoshe1]

great video, I've done the intake manifold for the knocking sensor, so I will attempt to replace the air injection valves. Thank you

[@TimmyTheToolman]

You're welcome.

[@stephenruston9233]

What a phenomenal video! Man this really bailed me out for getting this job done myself. Your method and high level of detail along with some humor speckled in made this job almost (I emphasize almost) enjoyable 🙂 Something to share: I was able to get the troublesome EGR exhaust pipe bolt that butts up against the engine head (shown at 41:14 of your video) with a mini box-in wrench that came with a Kobalt toolset I just happened to have. I was doing this job alone so I wanted to give this a shot and it worked albeit it wasn't easy. If you have a mini box-in that will clear the very narrow space between the bolt head and the engine head you can break it free then use the open end and then your fingers to back it out until it pushes up against the engine head. You will not be able to completely remove the bolt until you free up the whole unit and then you gotta tilt it up so you can finish backing out the bolt to ultimately free the air injection pump from the connection. The EGR pipe has a very small amount of flex capability (like any long pipe would LOL) that will allow you to slightly push it toward the firewall to slide the bolt out. Of course be very careful with flexing the EGR pipe to do this...but it can be done. On re-install with the new pump I set the pump down in between the EGR connections on each side with all four mounting bolts completely removed. At this point I had to put some pressure on the EGR pipe back toward the firewall to allow me to slide the bolt back in its hole and then thread it back into the pump mount. I want to say that this was NOT EASY. It just worked and it is worth sharing for those doing the job alone. If you have a helper who can help align the lower EGR mount on re-installation that is probably the easiest way to do this job. Thanks again for doing this video and helping guys like me out!

[@TimmyTheToolman]

You're very welcome, Stephen. Thanks for sharing some helpful information for others to benefit from.

[@davidmora273]

This is the way all videos should be. Thank you. Very knowledgable.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Thanks for the compliment David. You're very welcome.

[@combatmedic4087]

One of the best car repair videos I have seen on KZbin

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Thanks for the nice compliment. We appreciate it!

[@user-ph8zz7zm5f]

Probably the best tutorial video I have seen on this subject. Good job, thank you.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Wow, thanks for the compliment, hope we got a sub from you! 😉

[@keithcormier8179]

I used this video to do this exact fix for my 2010 Tundra. Absolutely amazing tutorial. Thank yall so much for helping me get my truck back on the road and save some money

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Thanks for the compliment. It's nice to know our video helped you get this repair done. You're very welcome!

[@christophergoodwin6846]

Super helpful repair mods!

[@pnwdrifter5680]

Thanks for the excellent video. I checked the pumps just by applying voltage to the connectors - without taking the pumps out of the wheel well. About the rear pipe/valve bolt that hits the manifold (won't come out because it bumps) - it can be loosened, and then remove the 3 bolts that hold the valve set, then you have enough "play" to get that bolt the rest of the way out. Very fiddle - y, but can be done. I got a little careless when torquing the intake manifold down - I lost a 12mm deep socket down the back somewhere, but a small price to pay compared to paying the dealer. Note: use tape to secure your socket to the ratchet when tightening the intake manifold down - if loose it can bump off and fall deep into the engine! 😏

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Thanks for sharing your success story even though there was a minor mishap with a socket. Happy Wrenching!

[@last1king]

I can't thank you enough for sharing this knowledge. God bless you.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

You're very welcome. Thanks for commenting.

[@joshmaiura8428]

Worked great for my 2011 tundra. I ended up being able to take off the pipe from the valve peice without taking it off from the wheel well section. Amazing instructions

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Good Job! I'm glad our video helped you out.

[@joerichardcycles69]

I always check with you and your videos before I tackle any Toyota job. Thank you so much for always being there for us!

[@TimmyTheToolman]

You're very welcome. As time goes on, we'll have more content for the 3UR-FE engine.

[@joerichardcycles69]

@@TimmyTheToolman I love working on all Toyota's . . especially 5.7. The Japs got it down with mechanic friendly engineering . .

[@jakeestrada1239]

Best video I've seen, changing water pump snapped those air injection hose , so gotta change those air injection hose now. Thanks you for great thorough video

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Thanks Jake and you're very welcome. Good luck with the job.

[@outdoorexplore4034]

Did cutting the hose make your check engine come on along with trac off? Asking because I just changed alternator and was pushing the hoses all over the place

[@jakeestrada1239]

@outdoorexplore4034 Just happened ! Got bypass kit and shut all the crap off. Yes 4 low and engine light traction light flash.

[@eliotrocks1]

Great video!!!

[@nealbae2381]

best repair manual ever.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Thanks for the nice compliment Neal. We appreciate it!

[@joshuasilalahi5680]

Most appreciated you Timmy , you da man !!!

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Thanks Joshua. Hope our video helped you out.

[@rob8823]

I watched a video by car care nut where he said they corrected this failure in later years by spinning the pump up for a second after shutdown to clear any water buildup. thanks for your breakdowns!

[@TimmyTheToolman]

I don't know how spinning the pump some more would help. It's the pumps sending water to the switching valves that's the problem. Toyota addressed the water intrusion into the pumps by redesigning the air intake tube that we showed in the video. Whether the new design works as intended is the question. Most people that have had issues with the secondary air injection system, at least from my experience, had a switching valve failure. The pumps were fine. Maybe the theory is having the pumps run for a second helps drive moisture out of the switching valve.

[@Couchlover47]

We need a follow up from Mark! Regardless, excellent video and step by step. I’m confidant I can make this repair. You explain things VERY well. Thank you!

[@TimmyTheToolman]

I haven't heard anything from Mark, so I'm assuming the repair has held up. Good to hear you appreciate the level of detail we offer in this video. You're very welcome.

[@sassafrasvalley1939]

Thanx man…. You saved my bacon on this… $2200 bacons! Nice job, bud!

[@TimmyTheToolman]

You're very welcome! Sean and I are all about empowering people to handle their own automotive work so they can be self-sufficient and save boat loads of money.

[@martyg55marty57]

Sir, very well done video. Thank you.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Thanks and you're welcome.

[@robertobetancourt7881]

Thanks for the video appreciate 👍🇵🇷

[@TimmyTheToolman]

You're very welcome Roberto.

[@ranjita009]

Fantastic and so detailed explanation of this work procedure. I thank you very much for the video.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Thanks for the compliment and you're very welcome.

[@yurirodriguez2428]

very well explained thank you so much.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Thanks for the compliment and you're very welcome.

[@yangxai3317]

Thanks 👍 my master. You teach us.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

You're very welcome Student.

[@stevennguyen3432]

You are my teacher I learn alot from you thank you very much,

[@TimmyTheToolman]

I'm happy to hear you're leaning a lot from our channel. You're very welcome.

[@Quintessential7]

Very comprehensive and detailed.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Thanks for recognizing the effort we put into this video.

[@allanperez272]

Thank you very good video well explained 👍

[@TimmyTheToolman]

You're welcome Allan. Glad you like the video.

[@wenleeatwork]

What a great video with such clear instruction. THANK YOU!

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Thanks for the compliment. You're very welcome!

[@joedoe5231]

Wow! This is such a great video! Thanks for making it!

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Thanks and you're welcome.

[@scallywagin]

Amazing thorough video, thank you very much, saved me a grand or so in labour....

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Thanks for the compliment, and you're very welcome. Great job doing it yourself and saving a ton of money. Happy Wrenching!

[@auvaileutele5818]

Thank you, very helpful

[@TimmyTheToolman]

You're very welcome. Glad you found out video helpful.

[@mariesidman7905]

Hey man I don't know if you read the comments on your videos but I just completed this job on my 07 tundra. Took me 8 hours which sucks but if it wasn't for this video it would've cost almost 10 times as much. Thanks boss.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

We read most of the comments on our channel. Great to hear our video helped you get the job done and you saved a bunch of money in the process. Good Job and Happy Wrenching!

[@spicythai2000]

Great video. Thank you so much.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

You're very welcome.

[@joserenderos2136]

Tanks you my friend very good video they can help me for my 2005 2006 2010 Toyota Tundra.tanks you very much Fresno California

[@TimmyTheToolman]

You're very welcome Jose.

[@warthhoh]

Great video

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Thanks Jay!

[@beehang6448]

this must be the best video ever, step by step thanks, it help alot ,i need to try and fix it myself because the dealer try to rub our money 😂 . the dealer some people that rob customers, thanks for your video

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Follow our video and do it yourself! Don’t let the dealer take you to the cleaners! - Sean

[@IDKWHYIDOTHISSHIT]

Thanks for this video very informative

[@TimmyTheToolman]

You're welcome. Thanks for the comment.

[@dlf1976]

Thank you for this!

[@TimmyTheToolman]

You're welcome!

[@pervezakhtar3241]

Excellent job

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Thanks!

[@DD-Aerial-Photography]

You helped work on my Tundra, even though it was 2000 miles away. Rear axel bearing

[@robertbruneau112]

all good accept those are not egr pipes, they are air injection pipes. thanks for the very detailed tutorial. keep up the good work!

[@TimmyTheToolman]

All good except for your use of accept. Gotcha!

[@santiagoanquero708]

Gooden Tight.... FANTASTIC JOB, WELL CAST. 👍👍👍

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Thanks Santiago! We're glad you like it! Happy Wrenching!

[@Johnleefromthemist]

Thanks for the Video Greetings from Fremont California just subscribed I have a 2011 Toyota Tundra 5.7L Limited Platinum 4x4 Love this Machine Just got a P2447 changed both pumps I did not know how to test the pumps thanks to you now I do. Code still shows up so next I am going to tackle the Air Injection System Valve. Just sucks the 4.7L has the valves on the outside of the manifold and 5.7L has them buried inside the intake manifold play hard fix hard great job and thanks again guy's keep up the great vids 🤙🌅🛻🧰

[@TimmyTheToolman]

You're welcome. Good luck with the valve replacement. It's not a hard job, just takes a little time. Happy Wrenching!

[@arielmedina9948]

Yeah fantastic work 👏

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Thanks for the compliment!

[@vincephan344]

This is how all DIY videos should be made, clear visual perspective, articulate speaking and humor to get our mind off the frustration of car repairs. I'm getting ready to tackle this job, my 2010 Sequoia 5.7L has a code P2433 "Pressure sensor circuit high Bank1" i'm assuming this is what i need to replace, the pressure sensors sit on top of the diverter valves assembly right? Not a lot of info out there but i'm assuming this is the case. Thanks for the video fellas, keep it coming! Thumbs up and subscribed.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Thanks for the nice compliment. We appreciate it. I don't know if the pressure sensors are part of the switching valve assembly. This is something I never researched. If you find a definitive answer, please comment back and let us know. You know, I might still have the Toyota FSM pages for this job on my computer. I'll take a look and let you know if I find anything regarding the pressure sensors.

[@vincephan344]

@@TimmyTheToolman thanks again for the DIY video, I was able to replace the valves today. Truck drives now without limp mode and seems to be working like normal. Before replacing the valves truck would not get out of limp mode, you can’t even clear the code it just stays on. As soon as I put these in the light went away on its own and truck is good again. I think it’s safe to say the pressure sensors are on this unit. So anyone with a code P2433 replace this with OEM Toyota parts and it should fix it. Costs $300 for the part and 2 hours of your time if you follow this video

[@TimmyTheToolman]

@@vincephan344 Hey Vince, I'm happy to hear the repair worked for you. I'm guessing you're right that the pressure sensors are on the switching valves. That's good to know. Great job getting this repair done on your own. You saved a ton of money. A Toyota dealer would have suggested replacing all the components and charged you around $3-4k to perform this job.

[@rainbowspringsirrigation1519]

Great video, think i might have to do this. No check engine light but seems to be in limp mode

[@TimmyTheToolman]

We're glad you liked the video. Good luck with the job, and I hope it fixes your limp mode issue.

[@madmike4]

4.7 litre engine is so much easier to replace. located on bank 1 and 2 outside of engine. Im replacing my third one on bank 2 but next time it goes im buying the bypass kit. For some reason these after market injection valves dont last long . And yes I replaced air pump also . Great video

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Thanks for sharing what it's like on the 4.7 liter engine. Glad you like our video.

[@trinidadzamora7978]

How do you know which one is bank one and bank 2?

[@lesp315]

@@trinidadzamora7978 By code number.

[@pedrolazcano5153]

thankyou for your video pedro from tulare ca thankyou againg gad beless you

[@TimmyTheToolman]

You're welcome Pedro. I fought two fires in the Tulare area. One started by an air plane crash and the other started by a lightning strike.

[@emumaw1]

Thank you very much for the great video. Great details and informative. Question, Where can I find Toyota Air Pump Inlet - 17621-0S012 (new design trumpets)? Having hard time to locate it. Thank you.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

We're happy you like the video. Just do a search with the part number. I just did and saw lots of options on where to buy it from.

[@pastorfred3460]

Thank you! You referred to the hard lines coming off the valves you removed under the intake manifold as “egr” if I recall correctly? Did you mean SAIS? I don’t think the 3UR-FE engines have egr? Tks!

[@TimmyTheToolman]

I'm not sure what I said in the video. Whatever information I used came from the factory service manual.

[@jesustovar7931]

Enjoy your channel. I have a ?? Related to my 2001 Toyota Tacoma, V6. Bought 2 years ago. When scan fuel trims, only shows one bank, bank one. Any ideas why?

[@TimmyTheToolman]

There is definitely two banks, Bank 1 is for the passenger side and Bank 2 is the driver side. I don't know why you scanner would only show one.

[@jesustovar7931]

@@TimmyTheToolman thank you for the reply

[@davidmeans6477]

Great video, getting ready to do this on my 2013 4.6L V8 Tundra. Having trouble finding the exact part number for the secondary air injection valve assembly. Any help is appreciated!

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Not sure about the part number for your engine.

[@lesp315]

Bank 1 PN 25702-38050 Bank 2 PN 25701-38100 Made by Toyota Denso. Don't buy Chinese made Dorman. They are junk and die after a couple of weeks. I made that mistake.

[@cyvongvichith9966]

Thank you the very detailed video! Ran into it because I have a P2433 code on my ‘07 Tundra 5.7L. Not CEL for the valves but it’s related to them so will be replacing for piece of mind and hopefully those two connectors are the sensors (?) I tried ordering from your links but unable to, getting bunch of strange info like one said ‘doesn’t ship to my address’.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

You're very welcome. Hope the job goes smooth for you. That's weird you were having trouble with the links. But, you have the part numbers so you'll be able to find an alternative to buy from. Happy Wrenching!

[@joseo.cordero7286]

Did replacing the valve fix the P2433 code? I have the same code in a 2007 5.7L Tundra with 112K miles on it. Code is for the pressure sensor circuit on Bank 1.

[@arminius301]

oh crap, that's a lot of labor to get to the valves. My 12 tundra just threw the code, not sure if it's the injection motors or the valves under the manifold. Mine has a TRD supercharger and a completely different manifold cover. Do you happen to know if it's similar under there as it looks on the one you're filming? btw absolutely fantastic attention to detail ! Thanks

[@TimmyTheToolman]

You have the same engine so it should look the same under the intake manifold. Glad you appreciate the detail we offer in this video. Good luck with the job.

[@cvj281]

Great Video. One question. So mine just turned on. But I won't have time to replace until the weekend. Is it safe to still drive my truck? Code P2442 secondary air injection valve stuck open bank 2

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Yes, it's safe to drive. On some vehicles, the computer can put the engine into limp mode, but I don't think that's the case with this engine. The guy I helped in the video had that code for a while before I helped him and he was able to drive the truck no problem.

[@cvj281]

On mine it did lose power. Seems limp. Lol. I just want to get it to my house. About 30 miles away

[@TimmyTheToolman]

@@cvj281 Yeah, you can get it home.

[@user-lk8or3pw9n]

Great video! I am tackling this project this week, can you test the pumps with voltage tester without removing from the wheel well? I’ve been getting code P2420 and P0441 and have trued everything shy of the air injection system and pumps.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

I'm not sure if you could simply test the pumps with a voltage tester. You want to apply 12 volt power to them and make sure the pumps are running like they should.

[@user-cc5kf6ey9i]

is there way to do away with svc system and truck runs okay without any issues

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Look up Hewitt Technologies Bypass Kit.

[@ranjita009]

So sir when you opened up the 2 valves and showed that the were stuck open/closed. Can they not be worked/repaired at to make them function like they are supposed to? Thanks.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

I'm not sure if they can be repaired. It's something I've never researched or tried.

[@lesp315]

I doubt it. Rubber seals will be totally gone. This is unfortunate because these parts are expensive. Also, if you buy cheap Chinese aftermarket you will be changing them very soon again. Don't ask how I know that.

[@trinidadzamora7978]

Where can i buy the new and improved rubber piece so water wont get in? Whats it called aswell 28:20

[@TimmyTheToolman]

It's actually a plastic piece and it is linked in the video description. You just have to click on "More"to expand the video description.

[@andrewmedina6555]

Hi! I didn’t mark the hoses and forgot which hose goes where up top closer to the engine not the connection into the hose itself. Would I be able to email you a pic ?

[@TimmyTheToolman]

All I have as a reference is this video and another video I did on this engine replacing the valve cover gaskets. So, I'd have the same information as you. Maybe the valve cover gasket video series will help you out. It's two parts. This is Part 1: kzbin.info/www/bejne/d4SyeqmujNSajassi=Qi7lLKzEZAxtBN_0

[@user-uw7mz8xx8b]

Timmy, I finished up the secondary valve swap out late tonight. The video was a great help. I thought the entire job was smooth and I didn’t have any major issues until I cranked the truck. Although I no longer have the codes for secondary valves, the engine is going crazy first really low rpms and then high rpms the really low and then back to high and then back to low for several cycles until the engine dies. I double and tripled everything. Tomorrow I am going to take the intake manifold off again and make sure the center electrical connector between the secondary air valves is properly seated. The vehicle almost has 300k miles. The throttle body has never been clean and I first thought my clean throttle body was causing the issue but after 3 cycles of the engine dying out I stopped cranking. Just curious if you had any thoughts or suggestions. Thanks, Clay

[@TimmyTheToolman]

The only suggestion is I can make is double check your work. You probably forgot to connect something.

[@claysmith428]

​@@TimmyTheToolman Yep, the hose that was 'fighting me' (at 31:47) was the culprit. When I disconnected it, the other side of the hose also came loose. Because it was buried in foam, I didn't notice it had disconnected. I double-checked all my work and found it after about 30 minutes. No more error codes, and everything is back to normal. Cheers! A beer is headed your way.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

@@claysmith428 That's awesome Clay. I'm stoked you figured it out. Good job!

[@charlesmecum5009]

I hv 2445 pump stuck off bank 1 but pump runs if u supply volts to pump, i dont hear it when starting eng.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

The P2445 code could mean a bad air switching valve too from what I looked up. So, it's probably the switching valve and not the pump.

[@wilfredmagkasi1762]

can I use my Ryobi tools instead of milwaukee? Thanks for detailed video!

[@TimmyTheToolman]

You can use whatever tools you want. All my cordless tools are made by either Milwaukee or Dewalt. By the way, I caught the humor and hint that I mentioned Milwaukee too many times in the video. In all our videos, I let people know the exact tools we are using throughout the job. You're welcome!

[@dereksmith8047]

I have a 2013 5.7L Tundra and I got a P2445 Code replaced both pumps because I read they had been recalled. After replacing still getting the same code and lack of power symptons any suggestions? Derek, Orlando, FL

[@TimmyTheToolman]

So I'm guessing you never actually tested them before replacing them. It could be a problem with the pressure sensor for the secondary air injection system. I just did a quick search and found that.

[@dereksmith4178]

yes you're correct my bad but at least I've got new pumps that were recalled anyway! There was a pop on shut down a few days ago before my problem set in, so does this help your evaluation?@@TimmyTheToolman

[@TimmyTheToolman]

@dereksmith4178 No, it doesn't. This video I made was my one and only experience diagnosing an issue with the secondary air injection system on these Tundras. Like I said, the CEL you have could have multiple causes. I sort of doubt the wiring is the culprit, or the ECU is the culprit. I'd do research to find where that pressure sensor is on the engine and test it. Maybe someone on a forum has documented how to test it. If not, you can buy a 2-day subscription to the Toyota Tech Info website for $25 and download the factory service manual pages you require.

[@dereksmith8047]

Thank you! @@TimmyTheToolman

[@billymartin2035]

I was just watching your video with the electric locks on the first gen Tacoma I went to same thing through something very similar replacing things checking things turns out it was the switch you might try plugging the right side switch into the left side door and see if that makes a difference if the door works or not, you’ll know if I switch if it has the same plug. I know you made that video two years ago, but I just now seen it.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Thanks for the suggestion.

[@user-kk6uj1yg6g]

does the p0419 code mean one of the pumps or the check valve?

[@TimmyTheToolman]

I looked up that code, and it appears it could have multiple causes. So, I'm not in a position to give you a definite answer.

[@DaShK325]

Great Video!!!! By chance do you know if there is certain years when this was a problem with the Tundra’s? Did they ever correct it on later models? Thanks

[@TimmyTheToolman]

I don't know if it's specific to certain years. Toyota did at some point upgrade the air intake assembly to the one we used in the video to limit the chance of water intrusion into the pump and then to the switching valves.

[@DaShK325]

@@TimmyTheToolman ok thank you for the quick response, I appreciate it!

[@TimmyTheToolman]

@@DaShK325 You're very welcome!

[@Shrek-is-Love]

@@TimmyTheToolman Just got a 2007 and it does not have SAIS issues yet, but I just checked and it has the original intake pipes on it. Do you think simply swapping to the new Toyota intake is enough? Or should I look into relocating the intakes to the engine bay and add K&N filters? To sum up, do you think Toyota's solution is good enough? Thanks Timmy

[@TimmyTheToolman]

@@Shrek-is-Love I don't know if the Toyota solution is enough. I don't have the data to make an opinion.

[@millo9496]

I had so much trouble getting the driver’s side pipe lined up that I ending snapping off the hose barb off of the driver side valve on the new part. I don’t know if I should try to repair or order another one.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

That's unfortunate that happened. I don't know how you could fix that.

[@millo9496]

I was able to fix with a hose barb and gasket adhesive. Reassembled cleared codes and no check engine. My truck is still running. Thank you so much for the great video I had to re-check some parts of the video to make sure I was following proper procedure. Very detailed.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

@@millo9496 Good job Adam! You're very welcome. I'm glad our video helped you out. Happy Wrenching!

[@volcanovo6831]

Just because the pump runs and blowing air doesn’t mean that the pump still doesn’t have water in it correct? There could be some water that’s not enough to be blown out? What’s your opinion on this?

[@TimmyTheToolman]

It's possible some moisture could be in the pumps. The only way to find out is to take it apart partially to look inside. We didn't want to mess with it since we had a lot still to film and limited time to do it.

[@lesp315]

Did you replace valves with Toyota OEM Denso or Dorman?

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Toyota OEM

[@quiquelincolnable]

Mine says the 'secondary air injection system relay circuit A' is that an actual relay from the fuse box or is that the name of the valve and the side is A?? Please help

[@TimmyTheToolman]

I'm not sure where the relay is. I imagine the relay is what one of both of the electrical connectors for the pumps connect to in the engine compartment. That's my best guess. This was first and only time working on the 5.7 L engine. A way you can figure out what it is, is visit your local Toyota dealer and say you have a check engine light for that relay and ask how much what one would cost and where it's located. They'll show you in the parts schematic.

[@quiquelincolnable]

@@TimmyTheToolman u might be right I got that p0418 too and recently replaced both pumps from under the fender, maybe just need to push the connector harder like u did at the end of your video, tnx in advance

[@TimmyTheToolman]

@@quiquelincolnable No problem. Good luck.

[@user-in9kh7fm4n]

Does this have any issues with engine hasitation ?

[@TimmyTheToolman]

No, he didn't. This system is for emissions and it really doesn't so a whole lot other than cause people grief when one of the components of the system fails and they get a check engine light.

[@bouncebounce6147]

Wondering why the price varies drastically for a single replacemet pump around 500$ for a genuine toyota... or 100$ for 2 pumps ...its essentially the same part so why would i spend 1000 when i can get it for 100 and its no wonder the shop close by wants 3000$ to fix it. I got the pumps out but they dont even respond or kick on when i hooked them to my battery ...and sadly i do not have a multimeter . Anyways ...great video super thorough ....doing the lords work out here my brotha ....god bless ... things seem to be moving in a difection where its like they dont want you to be able to fix it yourself so a big thanks for making it possible for people who are clueless abouf cars ( me) the ability to git er dun AFFORDABLY ..AHMEN

[@TimmyTheToolman]

I usually prefer OEM over aftermarket, but for a BS smog system like this, I'd do aftermarket too. Get yourself a multimeter. They're super affordable. I think I linked one in the video description. We're all about helping people do their own automotive mechanic work. Good luck with completing the repair.

[@geesss8675]

What percentage of vehicles made have this failure and on average how many miles can owners experience this? what is the dealer cost for this repair

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Don't know the percentages but it was enough for Toyota to give an extended warranty on the system, 10 years or 150,000 miles, whichever comes first. It can happen to people pretty early less than 100,000 miles but obviously it can happen later as well. Mark's Tundra had around 100,000 miles but his 2008 rig was over 10 years old so he was out of luck. I've heard people say the dealer could charge up to $4000 parts and labor for this job but I've also heard lower numbers as well.

[@jaredborell7824]

@@TimmyTheToolman The information you just said was correct. I have 2011 with 200k miles and the CEL just came on with error code P2441 "Secondary Air Injection System Switching Valve Stuck Closed Bank 1" and I was quoted $4000 from a Toyota dealership and $3200 from my trusted shop. When I called Toyota they told me to basically go pound sand, even though my Tundra is a Gen2 which earlier Gen2's were covered, they only went to the year 2010. Getting this error code off so I can sell the truck with no CEL. I loved my Tundra but I need more towing and payload capacity for my new camper. We are at the max payload with my wife (140lbs) , myself (200lbs), our two dogs (100 lbs & 85lbs), and the hitch weight. My 1 Ton diesel truck has been booked and is currently being built. Toyota has lost a faithful customer with this design flaw and not backing repair costs. It's not only me they are losing, I'm a fleet manager for a large construction company and I'm currently selling every Toyota truck we have (102). Design flaws are BS and should be covered for the life of the unit. Anyways great video and you helped me save tons of money by walking me through all this step by step. Thanks!!!

[@TimmyTheToolman]

@@jaredborell7824 Thanks for the comment Jared. Yeah, it is too bad Toyota isn't owning this mistake. And, it's such an unimportant system to just clean up the emissions during the first few minutes of engine operation. Our smog laws are pretty ridiculous.

[@charliebruceortega8447]

Isn’t doing the Hewitt bypass easier, cheaper and safe

[@TimmyTheToolman]

I've heard about this and I told Mark about it. Mark chose not to cheat the system so he could pass a smog check. He wanted to fix the problem using OEM parts.

[@jakeestrada1239]

​@@TimmyTheToolmanI acutally did it and passed smog in So Cal no problem

[@realxaxiong]

I got one and didn't work for mine.

[@joserodolforizo6504]

Thanks for the video, I did exactly the job, after I finished I got a code P0412 , how can I fix it???

[@TimmyTheToolman]

That's a code for a failed switching valve. Do you replace the switching valve with a Toyota OEM replacement?

[@cornertankcorner]

Is the procedure same for 2010 Tundra?

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Yes, it would be the same procedure. Good luck with the job!

[@cornertankcorner]

@@TimmyTheToolman Thank you!

[@TimmyTheToolman]

@@cornertankcorner You're very welcome.

[@carz4lifeallcar236]

Is the coolants level low 🤔

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Yes, his coolant was low. We mentioned this to Mark. We didn't have any of the pink Toyota coolant on hand to top it off for him.

[@markrakozy405]

Im going with the bypass f california

[@TimmyTheToolman]

A lot of people choose that route because of the money savings and to prevent future costly failures of the system. I bet a lot of people junk their vehicles because of the strict smog laws. So, what's worse for the environment? A vehicle that puts out more emissions than allowed, or a big huge pile of smashed steel and plastic that ends up at a landfill?

[@SpeedGasmEvo9]

Thank You to the very informative video. Just Subscribed to you video. Would you recommend Dorman I know its cheaper than OEM but will it last as long? I was also thinking of just doing the bypass kit. What are your thoughts?

[@TimmyTheToolman]

I have no experience with Dorman products, but I think it would be a risk. Many people have gone with the electrical bypass kit to trick the system and I think that's a safe and affordable option to go with. This secondary air injection system does very little to keep your trucks emissions lower. It's just another stupid idea some emissions engineer came up with to cost owners a lot of headaches and money. Not having the secondary air injection functioning isn't going to cause your engine any harm or performance issues. It's just to make your life miserable when it's time to take your truck to a smog station so you can legally resister your truck. As long as you're not worried about the Smog Police coming to your door and taking you away in handcuffs, I think you're ok bypassing. Some laws were meant to be broken, emissions laws being one of them. While the U.S. overburdens our citizens with emissions laws because of the fear of climate change, other countries like China are spewing out tons of crap into the air. I'm a person with a good moral compass, and I have integrity, and I would have no problem sleeping like a baby if I bypassed this stupid secondary air injection system. I hope my take on this helps you out.

[@SpeedGasmEvo9]

@@TimmyTheToolman Thanks for your input.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

@@SpeedGasmEvo9 You're welcome.

[@lesp315]

Save yourself money and don't buy Dorman. I did and now have to go with OEM Denso.

[@outdoorexplore4034]

This same for2012 4.6 v8 tundra?

[@TimmyTheToolman]

You must mean the 4.7L 2UZ-FE V8. It's different. Check out this video of us doing a starter replacement on a GX470. It shows the location of all the secondary air injection components. kzbin.info/www/bejne/monTfGiPfJxgd5osi=Tgq3IYC5ADAimzTJ

[@lesp315]

4.6 is different. Two separate valves, one on each side of the engine. Timmy, 4.7 is an older motor.

[@lancet-kinzhal-su57]

👍✌👌

[@charlesmecum5009]

How about testing ecm and drivers

[@TimmyTheToolman]

We don't have instructions for testing the ECM. This is our only video on this subject for troubleshooting and fixing the secondary air injection system on the 5.7L V8 engine.

[@charlesmecum5009]

@TimmyTheToolman hey buddy ur a toyota tech, this trk comes in what wld u do, service data ok, pumps run, check valves wrk according to test, has new Toyota bank 1 driver, cycle key no power leaving driver going to pump any help, not seeing pin out to test ecm to see if it's ground side switched, need lil help, 2007 toyota tundra, 4.7 has one pump under manifold, and one pump rt wheelhouse.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

@@charlesmecum5009 I'm a DIYer, not a Toyota Tech. If the check valve is testing out OK, I don't know what would be next. So with the switching valve test, you can hear or see the valve opening and closing or is it just some ohms resistance test? From my experience, which is limited, it's usually the switching valve that is the problem.

[@charlesmecum5009]

@TimmyTheToolman well I'm a fixxer not a delete to fix problem guy, was hoping some toyota techs follow and might read and help, im older not a computer guy meaning all the social platforms and stuff, not a guy just hanging out on a phone or PC lol so don't know the PC lingo lol. But did enjoy vid

[@ErikBadillo-wr2ji]

What is the cost of parts and labor?

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Links to all the parts replaced are listed in the video description. How much a shop charges for labor is going to depend on the shop.

[@rconnell084]

Why don't you do the electrical tests on the air pumps before, removing them from the chassis? You could have confirmed the airpumps were good without tearing into the wheel well.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Because for demonstration purposes, we want to show people how to remove them in case one or both of their pumps are bad. We also needed to remove them to update the air intake tube to the new design.

[@user-cc5kf6ey9i]

timmy u sent me short note saying look at hewitt for my issue but doesn't answer my question from zena

[@TimmyTheToolman]

The Hewitt Technology kit tricks the vehicle ECU that everything is normal with the components of the secondary air injection system, even though one or more of the components have failed. If you just remove all the components, you will get a check engine light, and it won't pass smog. With the check engine light, the engine computer can put the vehicle in "Limp Mode " and it will not run at normal power. The Hewitt kit isn't technically legal, and that's why I didn't go into detail about it with my last response. I'm not suggesting you go that route for legal reasons. I'm just sharing with you that the kit exists.

[@MrCalifornia1234]

Tundras rule. Mine is 22 years old and I only replaced the radiator (myself of course).

[@millo9496]

I have a 2010 with 230,000 miles. I love it but after this job I’m thinking of getting a new truck with a car payment again. The problem is, the new Tundras aren’t as good

[@alsaysamone4148]

Wow! 4 knock sensors! Better keep those mouse away from it.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Yeah, those rodents do big damage to wiring harnesses.

[@alsaysamone4148]

@@TimmyTheToolman, still have not do mine. But I know it is going to be a big job. Don't want to remove the head, just the intake. For some strange reason, rodents also love TACO! AHHHH

[@mrjimmcdaniels]

I had mine replaced at about 160,000.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Based off your statement, it sounds like you paid a shop to do it for you. If you don't mind me asking, what was the bill for this job? I've head it can be in the neighborhood of $4k.