Toyota Tundra Comprehensive Transmission Oil Change

[@derekleung9370]

I followed your instructions and did it yesterday! Mine had 381k & people said don't flush it but I went ahead with BG flush! So smooth after I could not even feel the change of gear! Thank you so very much!

[@piercedasian]

Glad it helped! Thanks for stopping by!

[@charlesajouri7233]

Thank you for the time you invest in making these excellent and detailed videos. There is one critical step that everyone seems to miss while performing the ATF fluid replacement on Toyota sealed transmissions. I have seen the pros at the dealership miss it as well. After entering the fluid temperature detection mode it is very important that terminals 13 and 4 are disconnected. This will put the engine in the idle speed control after the temperature reaches 35C. The engine idle will be held at 800 rpm for the duration of the procedure. The temperature detection mode will remain active until the engine is turned off.

[@piercedasian]

Charles I'm glad you like the video! I went back and re-read the fine print on the Toyota service procedure and I wish Toyota's documentation made it explicitly clear to remove the SST (aka paperclip) from the jumpers. In the official documentation it states "Return the shift lever to P and terminate the active test on the techstream". Interesting that it says to terminate the test on tech stream but not to remove the jumper (if using a jumper). That is excellent knowledge that I was not aware of. THANK YOU for pointing that out. Makes me wonder how off my measurement is now.... :(

[@Dannyglaze]

@@piercedasian Hello.. I'm about to service my 2010 tundra.. was wondering if you ever rechecked your fluid level after your service? If not removing the paperclip caused any difference in the correct fluid level? Thanks again for a very easy to follow video 🙏✌️

[@RoyMarquez1]

Thank you for this information.

[@stanwidlacki7899]

This is the best and most efficient method to do the Transmission change yourself. Excellent job sir. Thank you.

[@ronmiller576]

One of the best DIY vids that I've seen. Very thorough and well explained.

[@piercedasian]

Glad you enjoyed it!

[@Thestargazer56]

This is the best explanation of the procedure I have yet seen.

[@piercedasian]

Glad you liked it!

[@wangofree]

Excellent video, especially showing the OBD2 pin locations which most people don't do.

[@piercedasian]

Glad it was helpful!

[@sandkglass4737]

Great instructional video on changing trans fluid and filter. I used it as a guide for my 2015 Toyota tundra 5.7 L. The video was great! Only word of caution is to be sure and measure the fluid as you’re changing it as he instructs you to. that will help you in the end

[@piercedasian]

glad you liked the video!

[@pjames4413]

Thank you for a very clear tutorial. Concise, and very understandable. I have watched some other videos, but this one is first class.

[@Guichomexicali]

Brother thanks a lot for your very illustrated video you are the man. I have been looking for complete transmission oil change on my 2015 crew cab Toyota Tundra thanks to you I finally found it.

[@Critastic]

Watching this video has given me the courage to do this job. Thanks, and great video.

[@gmdaddyrocks7730]

Amazing Video! This will come in handy when I work on my newer Toyota and Lexus Vehicles. I've seen some other videos with so called Toyota techs that do it half ass. Glad you took the time to show us all how to do it right way!

[@piercedasian]

Glad you liked this video! Toyota has a pretty interesting way of setting their transmission fluid levels but their method seems pretty rock solid and nearly idiot proof. No special tools needed, just a lot of oil and patience to fill their transmissions.

[@TedEischeid1960]

Thank you for this excellent video. One small correction to the fluid check mode from the Toyota procedure. First, turn off A/C and other electronics like radio, and once you get vehicle into temperature check mode, remove the jumper wire from OBII so idle speed is proper.

[@piercedasian]

yes I noticed that I forgot to pull the jumper out once temperature check mode was initiated. I'm not sure how much difference that would make to the fluid level but I do recall the idle not being too far off from where it normally is.

[@Wallstreetavarice]

Watching the start of the video I thought, "man that looks like a house in Calgary" and then I noticed the plates! Thanks for making these video's. I just picked up a 2011 Tundra with 83k and I'm going to change out all the fluids like I do anytime I get a new car. I trust your taste in vehicles, so I'll trust your judgement when working on them! Got a mint AP1 s2000 in my garage, still hunting for a clean EG6 and CRX (as if anyone lets those go these days!)

[@piercedasian]

Lol you guessed right! Not sure if you watched some of my other videos but shame I didn’t know you a few years earlier. I had a showroom mint type r crated motor swapped EG6 and I was the original owner. You can see it cruising around cowtown every so often by the new owner. It is black and literally factory new and not some ungodly looking car. Nice and super clean with zero flaws in the body. If you watch my other vids you will also see my near showroom mint CRX :)

[@Wallstreetavarice]

@@piercedasian Dang I wish I knew you then too, that's exactly what I want to do with an EG6. I had a rusty Civic CX as a teenager so I've always wanted to get back into one and do it up right with Type R DC2 parts. If you ever see a black AP1 with completely red interior come say hi!

[@piercedasian]

will do!

[@TonyLite]

Well done Sir. I Did this flush today. Check bolt stripped was my only issue. I purchased all bolts as a backup before attempting this though.

[@piercedasian]

Glad to hear it worked out for you!

[@Matt-vf2ym]

Such a great video. Just remember to remove paperclip once in temperature monitoring mode. I'd recommend a slightly larger tubing. Thank you. Truck is so happy

[@piercedasian]

Thanks for the info!

[@chriscoufal4830]

Great video. Feel like I've seen most of the videos on this topic currently out there and this is the best

[@rickrangel]

@piercedasian I have seen several so call "Comprehensive Transmission Oil Change", and without a doubt your video is layed out very detailed and comprehensive. The other so called, "mechanics" or "technicians" do a half ass job. Thank you very much for sharing this video. I have a 2008 5.7L Toyota Tundra that has 145K miles including a tow package and have never changed the transmission. I only use the truck to pull my 30 ft travel trailer. I've never had any problems with my truck - EVER!!!, other than just the maintenance. Because its a 12 year old vehicle, and after seeing your video, I thought I would change the tranny fluid. It looks like a piece of cake, a walk in the park - NOT!!! LOL. Thank you for sharing your video for us dummy's. You are truly amazing!!! Rick

[@piercedasian]

Yeah I know what you mean by other videos. Quite frankly they do suck and I am proud to say that my bud by far trumps them all and I am not the type to toot my own horn. It’s just many KZbinrs half ass the video. What’s the point of doing a video of you don’t explain the process correctly? I am glad you like my video and thank you for stopping by!

[@rickrangel]

@@piercedasian I attempted to do it myself yesterday (Sunday) and I SUCCESSFULLY was able to do the transmission oil change. It was easy after following your instructions. Once again, THANK YOU SO VERY VERY MUCH!!! ...... Rick

[@piercedasian]

That is awesome Rick. My response is late but GOOD JOB my friend!

[@johnnypgunz]

Great video. Thank you for taking time to make this and I absolutely appreciate the fool proof explanations you provided.

[@piercedasian]

Glad you liked it. The devil is in the details and teaching the PROPER way to do the job is super important for something super expensive like a transmission.

[@tomek60517]

Ok hear me out. If you can use a transmission pump to pump out the fluid, why not use the inlet on the transmission cooler to pump in the transmission fluid? In one container goes the old fluid, and in the other container goes the clean fluid. Monitor how much goes out and how much goes in.

[@RoyMarquez1]

Can this be done the way you are explaining? If yes, what hose would that be to fill it back up? Thanks.

[@jamessheridan88]

I have been wondering why you can't just use a vacuum extractor to draw out the old while simultaneously drawing in fresh

[@noway12510]

because the pump is drawing from the pan?, the connections he disco are just the cooler not the pump, pump will suck up but not reverse.

[@topspeed5555]

Always love your Tundra diy videos keep up the good work!

[@piercedasian]

Thanks! Sadly I sold my Tundra b/c it was a pig on fuel BUT... there is a newer tundra on the horizon. Just can't figure out if I'll get a newer 2.5 gen or a gen 3. Waiting on the car market to soften up a bit before I commit to a newer and more expensive truck. I regret selling my beloved 2010. It was such a tank!

[@johnrulevich8667]

Thank you for making this video. Followed it today on my 2016 SR5. Ended up swapping 14 quarts. Huge difference and saved $$$$$$$$.

[@piercedasian]

No problem! Glad it helped.

[@makj743]

Excellent video! I want to do mine. I have a 2012 v6 I was looking for a filler plug ( couldn’t find it) . Thank you so much for share your knowledge. definitely a new subscriber.

[@Guichomexicali]

Thanks a lot sir for your well explained video I really appreciate your time. I went to ask the Toyota dealer how much they would charge me to do the flush and it’s almost 600.00 dlls with out the filter, you just save me a few hundred dlls.

[@georgebennett785]

this guy knows what he is doing, great video

[@CaptainZap-vx6uh]

Great procedure; I did this successfully on my 2007 Tundra 5.7. HOWEVER, I had two problems, both my fault, which others should watch out for: 1. The trans cooler hoses on my 5.7 were color coded with pink and blue paint marks. I reasoned that the pink was the hot fluid coming in to the cooler and blue was the cooled fluid coming out. WRONG! What were they thinking? 2. I had fluid leaking out of the filler hole around my fill hose, only when the engine was running, even when the check plug was removed and nothing coming out. My thinking is that I pushed the fill hose so far into the pan that the return fluid stream was dumping on top of it and a portion was running down the hose and out the filler hole.

[@antrinh5525]

u could use the obd2 scanner and go into live data logging to find out what is the trans fluid temp is, it's easier that way without having to do the tidious going in N and D until it 's falshed. i don't know y toyota decide to make the dip stick on the bottom instead of the traditional up on the engine bay one. it makes it difficult for car owners to service their trans at home unless u have a lift .

[@dgobin1]

Ok. First off - great video!! Secondly, I got the 2010 4.6L 4x2 without tow package. Where is the oil cooler return line? I do not have any hoses in front my radiator 🤷🏽‍♂️

[@titoperez8902]

It is on the passenger side On the back of the transmission its a bolt it has a SW on it

[@piercedasian]

I can't exactly say where the cooler line would be on a truck without the tow package. Presumably I think there should still be a tranny fluid line that goes into the radiator to use the cooling system to help keep temperature in check. Unfortunately you will need to get under the truck and on the passenger side look in the location where in my video you see me stick that paperclip into the thermostatic valve and see if you can locate a line set in that general area and trace it back to the front of the truck. The key thing is that you need a line set to break into to get the fluid out the way I showed it.

[@piercedasian]

Tito, I believe the plug you're referring to is the oil fill plug labeled as "WS" which stands for "world standard" fluid. I could be wrong but that is what I believe you're referring to.

[@gerardvandenbosch5059]

Thank you for this video! It was really helpful, good work! Just today when I had to check my fluid level, couldn't get any data from Techstream. But the paperclip did the job

[@piercedasian]

No problem! Thanks for stopping by.

[@independentcontactors339]

I love the parts list at beginning it gas helped so much..

[@piercedasian]

Glad you found it useful! I've been trying to do that on my more recent videos because well... as one publishes more, the more I realize that people need to be in the know to do the job right!

[@mzalyalov]

Thanks, bro. Useful information. Greetings from Siberia!

[@piercedasian]

Glad you liked the video. Hello back from Canada!

[@yitang1236]

Thanks for the very instructive and helpful video. Have a question for you: the overflow plug was initially put on without the gasket and then was taken off when temperature reached 35C. Will this process work if the overflow plug is not on there while waiting for the temperature to rise? Thanks.

[@piercedasian]

I wouldn't do what you proposed b/c you want to ensure the tranny is at proper operating temps, crack the plug and let just enough drain out to be a trickle where the trickle stream is just a slight one. If you leave the plug off while it is getting up to temps that you might inadvertently drain out too much fluid. Toyota is often very precise in their service procedures. Tranny replacements are deathly expensive so its not worth deviating from their procedure.

[@yitang1236]

@@piercedasian Many thanks!

[@scotttreloar7285]

Thanks so much for this video, the paperclip seems key to enter active test mode. On other question. after reading the Technical Service Bulletin TC009-07, it says to enter active test mode(insert paperclip) THEN to do the slow P-R-N-D-P and thereafter do the rapid N-D for 6 sec until the D blinks twice now remove paperclip while waiting for continous D . In your video you do the slow P-R-N-D-P while draining the fluid at the start of the procedure before the paperclip insertion, I assume this works as well?

[@piercedasian]

no no I think you may have misinterpreted what I was doing. After each fill I would ask my spouse to start the truck to start purging and then while it was purging I'd get her to run it through the gears so that I would be pushing clean fluid through all the tranny fluid circuits. On the final fill I would put the cooler hose back on (so no more draining of fluid) and then run it through the gears to get any air out of the fluid circuits. Once that was done then I would shut the truck off, insert paper clip, and then start it up, toggle between N-D multiple times to trigger temperature monitoring mode and then wait for the tranny temps to get to optimal conditions (solid D) and then I would crack the overflow plug to drain off the excess fluid.

[@josephwlaysewski6732]

Great Video. Followed instructions to a T, but now have no reverse - rolls freely in R. Any suggestions? 2012 4.6L V8 75,xxx miles

[@darkpassenger65]

Excellent! Very informative and well done. I'm your newest subscriber.

[@piercedasian]

Thanks and welcome

[@joegliksman5343]

Thank you-made the job much easier.

[@brianlozano8791]

Great informational video. You make it look so easy.

[@piercedasian]

Glad it was helpful! It really is EASY to do so long as you have the right tools, are able to follow detailed instructions and have patience on your side. I'm so glad I did this b/c it costs so much at the dealership to complete.

[@ADONAIsays-so]

Outstanding! Im getting ready to service the trans in my 08, 5.7. Thanks much.

[@piercedasian]

Good luck and thanks for stopping by!

[@jdskelton5973]

Thanks for taking the time to make this video along with a thorough explanation of the process. Does pulling the paper clip once it enters temp detection mode put it into a lower idle mode to help hold the temp steady?

[@piercedasian]

It does actually by a couple of hundred RPM however, if you forgot to pull the clip like how I did it won't make an appreciable difference in fluid level. I've done many many many Toyotas with and without the clip (and have even redone some for those that I forgot to pull the clip) and almost no difference in fluid levels.

[@67polara]

I'm in the middle of this right now on my 2013 Tundra. I had ordered crush washers however they're the wrong ones so I had to order some others (M12). I was surprised to find on this very first service that there was 3.5 liters in there in fact it poured out of the 'check-level' plug awhile. I'll probably put in just 3 liters as you did and on my last flush only take out 2 liters like you did I guess. I'd say the trans was over-filled from the factory based on the PURPOSE of the check-level stand-pipe.

[@67polara]

My 'flush line' looks just like yours and no fluid would come out the 2nd flush. At all. I hooked up to the line you have plugged and got all kinds of fluid. Weird. Very helpful I was surprised how quick we hit 'D' the correct temp range.

[@piercedasian]

Hey, sorry for my untimely reply. That's crazy that so much oil came out. I'd be super surprised that toyota would grossly overfill their tranny's by that much. So are you saying that half a liter of oil came out of the spillway plug? I mean a half a liter is still a decent amount and plausible they could've overfilled it. As long as you follow my fluid check procedure that you'll get the tranny oil level spot on.

[@piercedasian]

interesting...so ultimately were you able to complete your fluid change and is the truck running properly now?

[@chefgeorge7172]

Excellent video. Thank you for sharing your expertise. I’m going to flush mine today.

[@piercedasian]

Glad it was helpful!

[@impresosroquesgiraldo3104]

The best video about it. Thanks a lot

[@piercedasian]

Glad it was helpful!

[@TuanNguyen-bq4kf]

Quick question, is it ok to also change out the trans filter and gasket too? I have a 2012 tundra 5.7 125k miles just bought last year and towed 30 feet trailer. Getting ready to tow again. I didn't see you change the filter. Thanks for your awesome video! How many quarts of transmission total? I bought only 6 was from other video.

[@ProGoHERO]

Wonderful!!! I’m glad I found your channel!!! 👍 n subscribed.

[@piercedasian]

Welcome aboard!

[@icncu222]

Thank you for the informational video. I am looking to do this procedure for my 2008. Question: what ATF did you use in regards to brand name? I believe it is Dexron VI? I also know there is a "Toyota WS" fluid but wasn't sure if that was the way to go.

[@piercedasian]

Hi, I thought it was pretty clear in the video what I was using (or maybe not?). I will only use genuine toyota WS fluid and not any substitute. Transmissions are crazy expensive so I'm not suggesting to anyone to use anything other than what the manufacturer recommends. Sure toyota fluid is a BIT more pricey but what are we talking about cost wise? A few extra $$$ for peace of mind? Cheap compared to replacing a tranny :). Only use Toyota WS fluid in a toyota tranny that calls for WS fluid. Good luck!

[@jayrepko7547]

Great video. What about changing the filter at the same time? Shouldn't the filter be changed at same time?

[@piercedasian]

No filter changes for me yet. Admittedly I've read PLENTY of horror stories of the bolts snapping in the transmission for some odd reason so I'm personally not going to take that change and break bolts/studs from the pan to change out what is likely a relatively clean filter. The fluid that came out of my truck was still in very good shape so I opted to leave well alone. It would be a VERY different story if there weren't documented cases of tranny pan bolts snapping off during removal as I would 100% agree it should be done at the same time. I'd rather not look for trouble and the filter in these trucks is one of them...

[@Jaxboy86]

Honestly a tranny filter is really just a fail safe filter. Its only meant to stop big chunks from continuing further damage if your tranny fails. Its literally a screen. If you have to change your tranny filter then you have bigger problems. Also just do drain and fills. Flushing your tranny completely can end up hurting it more than helping it. Seen it many times.

[@cdalexander8013]

Great video. I'm glad I finally found another comprehensive post on this (besides the quick-flush I've been seeing online). Several of your replies to others say you wouldn't replace the internal filter if you weren't experiencing problems. My 5.7L has 275k miles (last trans maintenance - a solenoid replacement - was at 185K miles) and the trans just started failing to up-shift automatically if the rpms are above ~2k. Throttle back and it will generally shift to the next highest gear. I thought it was rebuild-bound but hoping it's just because the ATF may be very low (no fluid dripping from check plug when ATF is at temp). Given all this, would it be worth it to replace the filter and pan gasket as a full ATF service or still leave it and just replace the ATF? There's no guarantee the whole thing isn't still destined for a rebuild.

[@piercedasian]

Hi Alexander, hmm that's a tough one.... I'm a firm believer that IF the tranny was not acting up that all you need is regular fluid maintenance b/c the tranny is effectively a sealed tranny (in comparison to one where there is a dipstick where dirt and water can get in easily). I'd only replace the tranny filter IF there is really badly burnt fluid or if I was already inside the tranny replacing components (ie. a shift solenoid). In your case, your mileage isn't all that crazy high so a rebuild seems awfully premature unless you work you truck super hard. The thing that scares me the MOST about messing with the transmission pan bolts is reading up on other's experiences and having their pan bolts snapping due to corrosion. That isn't a risk I'm willing to contend with since my tranny shifts perfectly and there is no reason for me to mess with it. Even in Toyota's factory fluid servicing procedure there is zero mention of replacing the tranny filter which implies that under normal circumstances one shouldn't need to replace the filter unless for reasons as stated above. I'd start off with changing the fluid and then doing the fluid check procedure as demonstrated in the video. Once you have clean fluid and a proper baseline fluid level (and make sure you're on level ground) that hopefully your shifting woes goes away. Who serviced the tranny previously that would cause it to have a low fluid condition? If you're not leaking fluid it shouldn't be low.

[@cdalexander8013]

@@piercedasian Thanks for the quick follow-up. I was hoping my situation didn't raise a lot of red flags and alarm bells. I will go through the process and see how it turns out. I noticed after my post, when checking to compare the 5.7L layout with the video breakdown, I am seeing some indication of a small leak somewhere, I will need to trace it out first to make sure it's not related to the tranny. To answer your final, a local dealership did the 185k mi tranny service. Was having a very similar issue, except then it would accelerate but never come out of 3rd gear. The repair shop started with first suggesting a new tranny, then a rebuilt one, to finally a solenoid replacement.

[@HaroldDick]

@@cdalexander8013 Hi. Just curious if you followed @piercedasian video and if it made any difference with your tranny not upshifting. I also have a 2010 5.7L Tundra that is experiencing the same thing and was just starting to research my options. Would appreciate any feedback you may have! Thanks!

[@tworobinsons]

There are a lot of videos on this subject, and yours is the best. You made the job very easy to understand! Thanks!

[@piercedasian]

I'm glad you liked my video the most :) I did this video b/c I figured the best way to show people is how I do it :)

[@Steve-sv3ln]

Ok...just to be clear. There are 12.3 liters in the transmission at all times? So as you're adding fluid...it's pushing out the old? My Brian has me thinking the new would mix with the old...which would have me actually using a couple extra liters to make sure that all of the old is out? If not too the me consuming...could you help me understand this theory. Ty.😊

[@piercedasian]

That is correct I wouldn’t bother with cheap ATF fluid because the method I showed in the video basically is pushing all new fluid while pushing old fluid out with barely any mixing of old and new fluid. If you do my technique you would have replaced 99.99% of the old fluid so spare your wallet and just use the wa fluid and procedure and your tranny will thank you.

[@deezerdeezer]

Isn't it a problem to pump the pan dry? It seems like we would want to leave at least a quart or two in the pan. How low in the pan is the intake for the pump?

[@mct54az]

Great video, just got all the items I need to do the job. Just crawled under my 2013 Tundra 2 wheel drive, my transmission fill plug is in a slightly different spot. Much easier to get to. It has WS on it and it is more down on the side of the transmission about 3 inches above the pan. Have they moved it or are there two fill plug?

[@piercedasian]

Nope, the transmissions will have slight variations on how they're designed. There is only one fill plug on the tranny and as long as its clearly marked as "WS" then you know you got the fill plug.

[@tedlu008]

Great video! Jumper wire method not working for a 2019 toyota sequoia.

[@piercedasian]

make sure you sand the sides of your paperclip since some paperclips have a thin clear coat on them making them non-conductive. I know the pin method worked on multiple Toyota's I worked on so you might be plugging it in to the wrong pin location. The sequoia of all things should be IDENTICAL to the tundra.

[@peyman4444]

Do you leave the hose in the fill port as you go thru the procedure to run the engine and drain fluid from the radiator side? No issues with ATF fluid running out the fill port if you leave it open with hose still in there?

[@raym2065]

Thanks for the informative video! Would you recommend changing the transmission filter along with this purge?

[@piercedasian]

I have never had to change the filter in the tundras. They're a sealed tranny so there would be hardly any dirt getting into unless there is some serious wear or abuse to the transmission. Just a fluid changeout as show is MORE than enough to keep the Toyota tranny's very happy.

[@raym2065]

@@piercedasian thanks for clarifying that. Btw a fellow Albertan here as well! Lol

[@dmproske]

Outstanding video sir! Thank You!

[@scottr9485]

Is the temp check procedure still valid for the 2014-2018 models? I see people using thermo guns which makes me wonder. Thanks!

[@piercedasian]

yes the temp check procedure should be identical for the later years of tundra.

[@benschmolze1266]

Can you talk about your funnel/hose setup? Are you hanging the funnel from the hood? I'm trying to figure out if I should do that or get a screw on adapter. Looks like they make an adapter to screw onto the tranny fill hole as well. Kinda neat. Thanks for the video.

[@piercedasian]

my funnel setup is very simple. just a funnel that fits into my hose end and then it hangs from the hood with a wire/hook. Nothing fancy. Yes the fancy fitting on the tranny is handy but totally unnecessary to fill a tranny.

[@67polara]

Is there no filter? I have a 2013 5.7 and it's waaay overdue for service.

[@piercedasian]

there IS a filter in the tundra BUT it is only to be replaced if there is something wrong with the transmission and is not considered a normal service item. If you do opt to replace the tranny pan filter just be aware that it is a KNOWN issue there the tranny bolts tend to be seized and can and will snap off leaving the rusted stud in the transmission pan mount which then you've gotta drill out. NOT a good thing tackle! You're FAR FAR better off doing regular drain and fill (or full fluid change outs like how I've shown) than to attempt to do a risky job of yanking a filter that doesn't necessarily need changing. I'm all for changing out new filters but if there is some risk of bolts breaking then no thanks....

[@markk2060]

Silly question but did you plug the other end of the hose that was left open when you separated the connection to attach the drain line?

[@jorgecordova6133]

Hi friend, 4runner owner here. Can I do this witouth the pins and using an scangauge to measure the temps? Thanks

[@piercedasian]

No I would use the pin method b/c it is the factory approved method of performing the fluid level check on the transmission.

[@MyDeere3320]

Not sure why I don't have any fluid came out of the check hole. I replaced the pan and strainer. Filled through the fill hole until fluid start coming out of the hole. Turn the engine on to drain the old fluid out. Refill oil back to the tranny and run the engine again until I see fresh oil coming out. Refill oil until it started dripping out of the fill hole. I open the check hole to let the excess fluid out. Ran the engine until transmission temp is at 100 degrees Fahrenheit. Remove the check plug and nothing came out. Am I doing something wrong?

[@ezwitme]

Thank you for the great video clip! After watching the procedures, it came to my mind if you could feed the fresh fluid through the ATF return hose while you draining the old fluid from the cooler. I'm not sure if the tranny pump could generate the equal rate of suction through the return hose as it pushes the fluid through the cooler. If it does, I thought this could save the repeating fill/drain process and be an easier fill than through the tranny fill hole. What is your opinion?

[@piercedasian]

Unfortunately the return hose doesn't go directly into the pump to create suction (at least not that I am aware of). The tranny isn't technically an airtight system. The return line dumps back into the sump like an hose draining into a container. Now if you had a hand crank pump to push fluid back via the return line then you'd save some time not having to route that pesky hose into the filler hole but that would only save you some time and it makes things a little more complicated than it needs to be. Old fashioned filling is simple, cheap and works.

[@ricardoitza8626]

Isn't he using the return line to purge the transmission?

[@MrStewStew]

Great Vid!. Question: DId you leave the fill plug off, with the fill hose-to-funnel left incerted in the tranny fill hole the entire time during the 3 fill/flush cycles? (i.e. didn't screw the fill plug back on during the startup-flush cycle). And further... if you left the fill hose incerted during all three flush cycles, did you also leave the plug off during the level check process at the end too. My thought there is if nothing comes out during the check, then it's easy to add more fluid until it trickles out since the fill hose is still in the tranny fill hole. THanks !

[@piercedasian]

Hey thanks! To keep things short and simple - yes I left the fill hose in the hole the entire time and during the fluid check procedure. The sump is quite low from the fill hole so no oil ever comes out of the fill hole.

[@seabass22]

So this is the correct way to do it per Toyota? I’ve seen videos of people filling and draining and man that just seems like it will mix up all the new fluid with the old and you’ll be pouring out a bunch of good fluid.

[@piercedasian]

Ironically this is the BETTER way than Toyota's factory approved procedure. This is why I suck out about 3 litres of fluid b/c at that point the sump is almost completely empty. If you do a drain and fill only with no purge via the cooler then you're mixing a lot of old and new fluid together. Using my method you're minimizing the fluid mixing and filling with fresh virgin ATF :)

[@seabass22]

@@piercedasian so what is their approved way? Just drain and refill over and over?

[@piercedasian]

you are correct. Drain and fill and check level. My method is NOT invasive in the slightest bit. Certainly SAFER than the power flusher method that the dealerships seem to still have. Drain and fills work fine if you do them often enough but I sleep better knowing I did a nearly 100% complete fluid change on my truck instead of changing out 30%-ish of fluid at a time.

[@seabass22]

@@piercedasian I wonder how well it would do if you did one every oil change 🧐 I’m about to add a cooler to my 2020 so it should make it pretty easy to do. Can you run it with the fill hose still in the transmission or have to reinstall plug every time?

[@piercedasian]

@@seabass22 doing every oil change = ridiculous as tranny fluid is designed to last a really really really long time. I’d say a healthy changeover is really around every 70-90k Kms and if you’re doing a lot of towing them every 50,000 kms is good. Doing any sooner is truly a waste. I have done independent lab testing of spent fluids and I can assure you that oil holds up a lot longer than people think it does. Cool that you’re putting in a cooler in your 2020. How did you achieve that? The 2018+ tundras completely deleted the transmission cooler fittings from the tranny and to my knowledge you needed those from a pre-2018 tundra and had to do a bit of finagaling to get it to all fit right (assuming it even works). No you do not need to remove filler hose each time you start the truck. You’ll nice in my bid I never mention removing the full hose during the purge and fill procedure.

[@Steve-sv3ln]

Yeah this is thee most video I've seen yet. Ty! Would it hurt the transmission if I used a cheap fluid just to flush...then fill with Toyota brand?

[@piercedasian]

I thought I replied to this but apparently it isn't posted. No use genuine fluid b/c whatever fresh fluid you're filling with is pushing the old fluid out of the torque converter. This is why I say fill 3 litres at a time b/c that is about what is contained in the sump of the tranny pan. It is literally using the tranny's pump to suck clean fluid up and pushing it through the pathway it normally flows in so doing this that you're changing out 99% of the fluid. Follow this procedure exactly and you won't waste money or fluid and still achieve perfect results.

[@rodritejedart]

Man amazing job 👏

[@piercedasian]

Thanks a lot!

[@derekleung9370]

This is the best video on this subject matter. I just bought a 2012 tundra for my son and that thing has about 320000 miles on it. I definitely would change the tranny fluid. However, I do have 1 question, what about the tranny filter and the oil pan? Do we need to take it out to clean and replace the old filter? Please advise. Thanks again!

[@piercedasian]

I would at all costs refrain from touching the tranny pan and the screen (not really a fine filter per se) because the tranny pan bolts are PRONE to breakage. I'd do the fluid change EXACTLY as how I have shown and unless the tranny is shifting weird or has badly badly badly badly burn oil that I'd leave well alone and just change all the fluid as how the video shows.

[@derekleung9370]

@@piercedasian got it! Thanks so much!

[@piercedasian]

Np!

[@agrace9213]

The "oil cooler return line" = Oil out from transmission; right?

[@piercedasian]

no, oil cooler return line meaning oil EXITING the cooler = BACK to the transmission.

[@agrace9213]

@@piercedasian Ahh. Got it. Actually, I'm intending to use this method on a 2015 RAV4, and it's oil cooler has the inlet and outlet indicated in the parts diagrams. Just trying to determine an equivalency of terminology. Thanks!

[@piercedasian]

you're welcome! Hopefully your fluid change went smoothly.

[@jgarzajr2347]

Should I do this if I've no record of maintenance? My 2010 Tundra has Over 155k miles on it.

[@piercedasian]

100% you should. Whenever I buy a used car I ALWAYS do a full fluid service on EVERYTHING to give me a clean "known" baseline.

[@jgarzajr2347]

Can this HELP My transmission to shift smoothly when it's cold, 5th n 6th are rough every morning

[@piercedasian]

yep it definitely can but rough shifting can be related to many things. That being said, follow these instructions exactly including use the proper toyota WS fluid and that ways you eliminated any fluid related issues. Shifting rough when the tranny is cold is not usual so what I did when I had my truck was drive it until its had time to warm up and then drive normally after that. Mine was always butter smooth when it was warmed up but a bit "janky" when it was cold.

[@mozpogson3639]

Unless you can prove that the return line does dump into the pan, you should be using a pump to put new fluid down through the return line. Lubrication of some transmissions is via the return line.

[@piercedasian]

prove that the oil return line dumps it back into the pan? Its a known design in the Toyota Tundra tranny. You can see the oil return line from the cooler go straight into the transmission's side which is an open port that dumps into the tranny (I've seen a tundra tranny dismantled on a bench before). While I do agree with your statement that some trannys have the lubrication channel piped into the tranny for lubrication but on the tundra luckily the feeder into the tranny cooler is POST oil pump and the fluid passages and torque converter which is why the oil coming out is the old fluid and why one has to keep putting fresh fluid via the filler hole. I can't speak to other cars and trucks but tundra for sure can be safely purged this way (I also know a toyota tech so that confirms what I already knew).

[@channelnamehere4065]

Love how you do this - but would you say this works better, or would it make sense to just have dealership do a machine-hook up flush? I don't know what Toyota recommends, I checked manual and it doesn't say anything about servicing the tranny, not even whether to flush or perform a flush-and-fill procedure like this. Any advice?

[@piercedasian]

NEVER do a machine flush. I used to work at a dealership that did that and shortly after a flush was done that transmissions were dropping dead not long afterwards. Normally all you actually need to do is a drain and fill and that would be sufficient for MOST use cases but I'm super anal and want 100% clean fluid in my transmission every 90, 000kms so this is why I did this video. Doing it this way relies on the truck's own transmission fluid pump and as long and you don't run the sump dry, that this is truly the best and safest way to do a 100% fluid change. Honestly, for the type of driving I do this is extreme overkill but I do occasionally tow with my truck and figured that most of the online community would probably want to know how this is done and I haven't found a real good video that explains it in such detail like I did.

[@riduandunia6591]

Thank you for the video. I’m encouraged to change my tranny oil on my 08.

[@piercedasian]

Its really worth doing to prolong the life of your transmission.

[@gp992]

Great video! Is this a A760E transmission? Again, thanks for the video!

[@alb12345672]

It is in the family, the 5.7 ones have a different letter but pretty much the same with heavier parts. 4.6L Tundras use a A760E/F Lexus GS cars use that same transmission. E=RWD, F=4WD, H=AWD (for the cars, yes they have a real planetary transfer case that shares fluid with the trans!).

[@piercedasian]

Yes, it is

[@piercedasian]

thanks for clarifying the code breakdown of the transmission model #.

[@jonrahimov9423]

Do you have to put a pin in the thermostat even if you dont have a external transmission cooler ? 2010 Gx460

[@piercedasian]

No you do not have to do that if you do not have a thermostat for the transmission cooler.

[@rxlo1062]

Outstanding video 👍

[@piercedasian]

Thank you very much!

[@geomarq123]

Helpful video, thanks for making it. My only issue was two broken transmission pan bolts that snapped on me. Did all the tricks to avoid that happening but they were frozen stuck to the aluminum and corrosion at the top of the exposed bolt. Doesn't help toyota didn't use antiseize and were very small pathetic bolts just begging for that to happen.

[@piercedasian]

Glad you liked the video. Your plight is exactly why I never bother removing the pan from the truck. I've read far too many posts in the Toyota forums that say their pan bolts snapped and it is crazy how often it happens. Shame on Toyota for installing puny little tranny pan bolts. Did you end up removing the broken bolts? How did you end up fixing it?

[@geomarq123]

@@piercedasian Lol...put the rest of the bolts back on and left it alone. Pan has two broken bolts but that thick rubber gasket is forgiving and nothing is leaking.

[@popeyesailorman911]

Where are you? Can u do my Tundra?

[@geicokaveman5707]

Is there a filter inside that needs to be changed? About to do this on my 2011 5.7

[@piercedasian]

There is a basic mesh filter but it rarely needs changing. The problem with getting the filter out on the tundra is that the tranny pan bolts are EXTREMELY prone to breaking and once those bolts snap it is NOT easy to get them out. Not worth the risk and if the tranny is serviced regularly that there is no need to change the filter out. The beauty of sealed transmissions like the one on the tundra is that dirt rarely get into them b/c there isn't a dipstick for junk to get into the tranny. I've done tundras with some crazy wicked miles on them that have been run hard and after a full tranny fluid change they run like a champ and I've never replaced a filter on them.

[@cesarflores8450]

Is this procedure the same on a 5.7 Tundra ?

[@omotesando5456]

Thanks for posting this. Is there a problem with leaving the transmission over filled ?

[@piercedasian]

I would not want to drive around with an overfilled tranny. Follow the fluid level check procedure I demonstrated at the end of the video and its just a simple matter of cracking that overflow plug and letting the excess run out at the right temperature.

[@big4g63t]

that mint crx over there looking sweet

[@piercedasian]

Thanks. Yes it is indeed mint and its a shame it doesn't get more road time. I am legit paranoid of taking it out b/c all it takes is some idiot driver to miss a red light or be texting while driving and I'm stopped at a light and it would be a write off. I'll be honest and say that I actually do drive this on days where I know there is no gravel on roads won't or hasn't rained and when I know traffic is next to non-existent. It really is mostly a garage queen these days.

[@mikeburry5093]

Why do you show needing 12L of ATF in your supply list? How many litres does the trans hold in total, including the cooler?

[@piercedasian]

To fully remove ALL old oil from the tranny you need that much. This is effectively doing a self driven flush that changes 100% of the fluid in the tranny. If you're doing just a drain and fill its like 3.5 litres.

[@mikeburry5093]

My dash didn’t flash at all after filling the trans and hooking up my cheap obd2 reader instead of your paper clip jimmy rig. Seems to go into all gears. Safe to check fluid?

[@piercedasian]

@@mikeburry5093 no, you gotta use the paperclip method and get the tranny into fluid check mode. Its just two pins you gotta jump (make sure you jump the right ones) and toggle in and out of drive and neutral as demonstrated. Once the D is solid green is when you crack the overflow drain open and let the excess run out to barely a trickle and then recap it. Having too much or too little fluid can damage the transmission.

[@geannimartinez534]

Does this work on the 2012 Toyota Sienna as well🤔..??

[@piercedasian]

The basic principles are the same actually so I would say yes.

[@geannimartinez534]

@@piercedasian Awesome..!! Thanks for the video and I thank you for the comment .. And one more question ... What would be the ideal temperature to consider so that the transmission fluid is at the correct level ..?

[@diligentefforts8172]

Great advice. Question, I bought a 2016 Tundra with tow package. 216K Miles, it looks like its been taken care of really well, a shop is going to sample my tranny fluid soon. If its never been chnaged, what would you recommend I do?

[@piercedasian]

Absolutely change it though if it was well taken care of I would imagine it’s been changed before. Regardless though, change it all out for your peace of mind.

[@hoamai8379]

You are the best

[@piercedasian]

Aww thanks!

[@lindseybalser3009]

What size house did you use from the cooler return line to drain fluid. Also, In the video I can’t see where you hooked up the drain line.

[@piercedasian]

If you open up your hood and locate the a/t cooler lines you'll know what size of hose to get. I believe (and I could be wrong) but the hose I was using was a 1/2" PVC hose. The lines front which you disconnect should be pretty clear as I did show that in my video. If one doesn't flow oil when you first start your truck then odds are its the other hose that will flow.

[@zheng1987]

Dose the temp check trick work on 2017 tundra?

[@piercedasian]

Yep

[@scotttreloar7285]

If you have a scan gauge 2 reading the tranny fluid temp, do you need to put the pins in the obd reader and go through that process? or can you just read 115 and get under the car to check the overflow?

[@piercedasian]

technically speaking no you do not need to short the pins. In my video there was a MINOR detail omission that one of my viewers called me out on and that was in fact to remove the pin after it hit the target tranny temperature. The shorted pin actually brings up the idle speed slightly apparently and removing it after it reaches temperature drops the idle speed down to what it would be if you were idling at a traffic light. So in your case you could just get the tranny up to temperature and then drain off the excess.

[@italRotty]

nice job, how many miles were on the truck when you did this ?

[@piercedasian]

I do the tranny fluid change on my truck every 75, 000kms. Toyota factory recommendation is 90,000 but since I do all my own work that I tend to service them sooner. Fluid is cheap insurance for a VERY expensive transmission. The mileage at the time when I did this specific video was 155, 000kms.

[@ThaiRoney]

Can i use cheaper oil to flush it and use the good stuff at the end?

[@piercedasian]

no point in doing that b/c as you "purge" the oil fluid out you're actually filling the transmission fluid circuits with fresh Toyota fluid. If you flush with a different fluid then now you have to use just as much Toyota fluid to purge out the non-toyota fluid. Just follow the instructions in the video and your tranny will run perfectly.

[@Mira-onpawz-therian]

You could technically. I use the cheap Walmart super tech oil for it.

[@Mira-onpawz-therian]

piercedasian, where do you get that drain pan at?

[@piercedasian]

If you're in the USA: amzn.to/3yoP8Rv If you're in Canada: amzn.to/3ycW583 Hope that helps!

[@markschilling4144]

Awesome quality. Thank you!!

[@piercedasian]

You're welcome!

[@aliabdullah7282]

Can I do the same thing if the car passed a 100,000 Miles or more, without changing the transmission fluid I mean about the flashing Thanks

[@piercedasian]

I change tranny all the time k. Super high mile vehicles and every time it’s always shifted better and has never caused a tranny leak or failure. 100,000 miles on a Toyota is nothing!

[@jfque5044]

Did you pull the trans cooler off before starting the video? Thx!

[@piercedasian]

I just disconnected the house but I didn't take anything out per se. Just took off the clamp and pulled the cooler hose at the front of the truck. I pointed that out in the video.

[@jfque5044]

@@piercedasian Great, thanks, maybe it’s a 4.6 thing. Right there on my truck is a big square cooler and you cannot see the lines. I may have to go from the bottom of radiator I s’pose...

[@thooks1234]

Why didn’t you drop the pan and replace the filter?

[@piercedasian]

no need as even the Toyota service schedule doesn't call for it. The tundra transmissions are more or less a sealed unit so there is very little chance for dirt to get in. If the transmission is running properly you're best to leave well alone and just service the fluid. I've heard of multiple example of people removing the tranny pan bolts and having them snap off with the stud stuck in the tranny housing. No thanks. The risk for myself to remove the potentially seized bolts isn't worth the hassle that offers very little (if any benefit).

[@derekleung9370]

Also, the filling tube looked bigger than 3/8" ID, what about the OD? 1/2"? Please clarify. Thanks again.

[@piercedasian]

I was certain the the filler tube wasn't very large at all. It may have been a 1/2" ID hose but I honestly thought it was a 3/8" since the filler hold is quite small. Honestly it did take a long long time to fill that bloody tranny especially when going through 12 litres of oil. I'd go an measure the hose for you but I moved a while ago and I have no idea where it is.

[@derekleung9370]

@@piercedasian thanks I finally got everything. planning on tomorrow x

[@LeoSabo26]

Great video!! Much appreciated.

[@piercedasian]

Glad you enjoyed it! Thanks for stopping by.

[@NL_BIKE_LIFE]

Followed all these steps can’t get any fluid to come out through the hose from the oil cooler, any suggestions?

[@piercedasian]

did you put the pin through the cooler thermostat as shown in the video?

[@NL_BIKE_LIFE]

@@piercedasian yes

[@damarpo5467]

Awesome vid!!!👍

[@piercedasian]

Glad you enjoyed it

[@davidquintini1714]

Did you plug the other line? I’m getting fluid from both…

[@piercedasian]

you shouldn't be getting fluid from both. On the cooler there is either an "in" or an "out". When I disconnected the proper line on my truck that there wasn't a single trace of fluid coming out from the other line.

[@lifeisfuneh]

Would you change it on 2012 Tundra with 70K or it's too late now and I should leave it as is (never changed before) Thanks you!

[@piercedasian]

I would ABSOLUTELY be changing it. Heck if you said your truck at 300, 000 miles on it that I'd still say change it. 70, 000 miles is hardly anything.