Least Favorite Attachment for Compact Tractor

Homeowner asked Tractor Time with Tim to dig 51 post holes for his do it yourself fence project. Tim decides that the post hole digger is probably his least favorite attachment for the John Deere 1025R sub compact tractor.
Website: TractorTimewith...
Favorite Products: amazon.com/shop...
TTWT Merchandise: TractorTimeWith...
Facebook: / tractortimewithtim

[@dericklebron3198]

I've got a PHD from Everything Attachments that is designed for subcompact tractors that I used on my BX. Even with that, I run into issues similar to yours, especially digging in dry clay in the middle of summer. The subcompacts simply don't have enough 3 point lift capacity to overcome the auger sucking itself down. The majority of my holes have been with a 12" x 48" bit, which is a lot for the little tractor, but the 9" bit didn't seem to be much better. I've learned a few tricks with my setup that may help you, but may not be the safest of easiest on the equipment. This is also only applicable to ground without big rocks and roots. As many others have mentioned, repeatedly cleaning out the hole every few inches is important. I noticed that you were lifting the auger to do so, but you weren't lifting it all the way up. This probably won't help much as the loose soil at the top of the auger probably isn't going to make much of a difference. I also realize that sometimes when the auger bites just an inch or two into hard clay, it can suck itself right down to the bottom no matter how hard you pull up on the 3 point lever. Most of the time at least for me, the the auger will break itself free when the 3 point hitch bottoms out, rather than pick up the front of the tractor, if not, the tractor will stall. I was overly worried about this at first and would kill the pto at the first sign of it sucking itself down. I later realized that I was killing it to quick and for every 30 seconds i spent using the auger, I spent 10 minutes prying it out. I've had some luck with the adjusting the 3 point flow control so that the auger will just barely creep down. Sometimes this added resistance is enough to break it free before it corkscrews down too far. If you're quick enough, you can even close it all the way off, which will prevent the lift arms from going down. This makes for some slow digging, but saves the time of trying to get the auger unstuck. When the auger does corkscrew all the way down and stall the tractor, I've been able to break it free by lifting the front end of the tractor up with the bucket, which lowers the back of the tractor, raising the 3 point hitch as far as it will go, then raising the bucket back up, which leaves the front end of the tractor suspended in the air. Extra weight in the bucket helps with this also. After my first attempt at this, I'll lower the 3 point all the way down, and if there is any sign of loosening, I'll try it again and it usually pops out. If not, I'll try to gently rock the track forward and back, then try lifting the front again. If it gets a little loose, but still won't come up, engaging the pto with the front end up in the air, has always freed it. I haven't needed to get off of the tractor and use the prybar since i started going through the process. I believe someone else mentioned using a railroad jack or similar in the comments. I don't have one, but it seems to me like it would be a better choice than the prybar. The best and probably least practical approach is to wait for the ground to get wet since this makes it so much easier, but when a job needs done, it needs done.

[@TractorTimewithTim]

Derick, that is a brilliant idea! Using the weight of the front of the tractor to lift it! Hundreds of comments on this video, and this is the first one which truly has a creative solution which might actually work! Thanks very much!

[@dericklebron3198]

@@TractorTimewithTim you're welcome. It works for me, but my PHD has a shorter main tube, which gives the 3 point hitch more leverage. If yours can hold in the raised position with the front end up in the air, you should have more leverage to pull it out. The bx is able to hold the front end up with the 3 point hitch, but a soon as you touch the lever to raise or lower the 3 point hitch, the front end will drop back down so it's way over the lift capacity. I was surprised it was able to hold since it doesn't hold the auger from sucking down... or maybe it sucks it down because I'm trying to pull up on the lever. Perhaps not touching the lever rather than pulling up is best when it bites hard. I'll have to try it. Thanks. Also there's gotta be a joke here about how many software developers it takes to figure out how to use a post hole digger.

[@jagx234]

That seems like a Nifty solution. I was wondering if anybody had tried doing a pilot hole with a smaller auger bit like a 5 inch one and then gone back around with the 8 or 12 inch one. Aside from having to drill every hole twice can anybody tell me why that would not work?

[@TractorTimewithTim]

Drilling a pilot hole doesn’t work very well because the center of the bit is what gives it the downforce...and with the hole already there. The center doesn’t have anything to dig into

[@jagx234]

@@TractorTimewithTim I see, just like a woodworking auger bit, the screw pulls the bit in. Thanks!

[@georgecostanza9387]

pull the auger out most of the way to spin the dirt off about 4 or 5 times per hole. dont let it go all the way down with out pulling it out. thats what works best for me. when you go all the way down the dirt gets to be too heavy to pull it out then it starts screwing into the ground.

[@noc8076]

You need to clean out the hole more often. For every 5-10" pull out the auger, that way you will never have more then 5-10" of dirt holding the auger down. And when you are about to pull out, stop the auger. That way it doesn't drop dirt into the hole as much. When you have the auger clear of the hole, restart the auger and rev up to throw the dirt off the auger and away from the hole. Then stop the auger and lower it into the hole again. A bigger tractor and more HP only helps some. Running the auger all the way down without cleaning out the dirt is the same as screwing down a huge ground anchor.

[@Bob63198]

Exactly correct. Absolutely need to clean the auger fin regularly to avoid refilling the hole with the same loose dirt.

[@jamesberg3106]

Love the comment about a ground anchor. That is what I was thinking and couldn’t come up with the right words.

[@jasone9729]

You are correct, just because an attachment will hook to the tractor doesnt mean it will work properly. Also when is the last time the frost got down anywhere close to 42 inches in central Indiana?

[@alittleofthisandalittleofthat]

I live in Apple country. When I was a teen I use to help plant apple trees and we used a 12" auger on a Ford 3000. I was told when coming up out of the hole to rev it up to get it spinning, the dirt would fly off the auger instead of falling back down the hole... most times. :-)

[@tomkeating65]

I was always instructed to let it drill down a little and pop it back up to clear the dirt. Then drill a little deeper and so on. The tractor was a bit bigger but so was the bit. I think it was a 42 inch bit? But other than that I think you did good. Keep on drilling!

[@hyattfamilyfarmtractoradve6066]

Tim, you are just gonna have to give that post hole digger to me. It'll make you feel better not having to mess with it anymore. I will send you video of it in action too

[@TractorTimewithTim]

I may have to do so. Christy and I both get grouchy when we use it!!!

[@haihoegaatet6963]

Tractor Time with Tim i would also be fine with you sending it to mt in the netherlands

[@hyattfamilyfarmtractoradve6066]

@@TractorTimewithTim Oh no Tim, I have competition from the Netherlands.

[@aisejongsma3042]

Hai Hoe gaat et nog een nederlander ik ben er vandaag al 2. Tegen gekomen onder videos van ttwt

[@kennethmarlow2731]

As your digging the hole you need to pick it up some so the auger can clean itself and the loose dirt out of the hole. If you just let go down it tends to pack itself in the hole

[@zach_hewitt]

I think the finance committee needs to consider a skid steer.😬

[@michaelcrowe8875]

Can you get a auger for your mini excavator?

[@Michaelkp]

Have you tried like drilling a hole in wood go down and up down and up to help clean the auger off

[@williamfelts7530]

There really bad when your using them in the woods and tree roots I've had them grab a big root and go down and bury quick and lift tractor off the ground about two foot that will pucker your butt and you want to talk about a pain had to dig down 3 foot a hole big enough a man could get in to cut the root to get that auger out if it was not a brand new auger I would of screwed it down below ground level and it would of been it's grave lol

[@Inwetrust-qy2ly]

3pt post hole diggers work really good, you have the hp but not the weight or hydraulic power. Maybe a weight ballest box on the front end loader would help with the auger pulling its self down. Usually i like to run high rpm and go down taking little bites then come back up with high rpm it tends to throw the dirt more outwards and not back in the hole. Another tip i have learned is to give your helper a plumb bob, use it against the auger and get vertical holes every time.

[@chrisdavis6789]

Tim, carry a farm jack to use when pulling it out of stuck ground. Something like a hi-lift. That will at least break it out so the tractor can pull it up.

[@catharinlewis4]

Exactly what I did. A cheap 48 inch farm jack from Harbor Freight and a block of wood to protect the yellow paint on the arm and a 12 square piece of 3/4 inch plywood for the bottom and it worked every time. NO PRYING. Prying only gets you a few inches. This jack will get you a few feet.......

[@vacone1]

I think everyone is too hard on you.😊. Anytime one can dig that many holes that deep with little hand work. Huge success. What is the fence 10' high. I have never gone over 24" depth.

[@TheBrushcutter]

I know! When he said the customer wanted them 42" deep I thought, what is he planning to build, a power line???

[@christhornton2772]

Anybody who says they hate their auger, I guarantee you'll love it after you've dug a few holes with a post hole digger.

[@FlyingAceAV8B]

I have dug many by hand and also own a one man auger. Both are very hard on the body and I absolutely hate it. This is even more true with the rocky dry soil in San Antonio hill country. Now I’m buying a tractor and hopefully won’t have to destroy my arms and shoulders digging for the new deck.

[@jeffreyplum5259]

A bigger tractor might do better, but you'd still reach its limits doing the work. Actually, you must treat it as several shallower holes, in a stack. Your machine just needs to take smaller bites. Digging a hole is not one operation but two. It cycles between loosening material and and removing the loose material. The auger wants to behave like a screw. You want it to act like a drill. Pumping the auger up and down divides the hole digging, from the hole clearing. It keeps the loads on your machine controlled by the operator. Uninterrupted digging means soil conditions can override the operator's control. Good luck with the new place!!

[@rick9031]

Those holes look really close together for a fence.

[@donlatimer5114]

Tim now that you have a larger Casey why not get a post hole digger that will attach to Casey it would be able to bored a much straighter hole and not wobble rounders as much and have a lot more horsepower, just something to think about ????

[@bigjim5723]

i agree about one for the larger casey, and i bet u could reverse it too. i rented a bobcat skid loader with one on it, yrs ago, to drill our holes for a smaller pole barn building, nicest time in my life i ever sank posts in my life, all because u could reverse the auger.

[@billyroberts6727]

You should get a post hole digger attachment for Casey

[@leol1682]

You shoud have hydaulicque hole diger on the exc.

[@MARKLOCKWOOD2012]

May have to rent bigger equipment off and on till you can get something with more horse power. the other scary thing i would have is doing damage to a drive shave link. All one can do is work with witcha got until the time for bigger stuff comes about. I’d look at what your getting into before deciding on equipment.

[@farming4g]

I do despise postal augers as well.... used one quite a bit before finally buying a large heavy-duty post pounder. Makes fence and corral projects 10x easier. Limiting factor though is height of the posts. I think ours can handle 12' posts maximum.

[@cliffh8486]

No down pressure on most small tractors. Best thing is a skid steer attachment w hydraulic motion forward and reverse on the bit as well as down pressure from loader! Cool videos!

[@TractorTimewithTim]

Yep. Thanks for the kind words!

[@hardset-vi3ze]

yeah, but that's only a 30-40 k machine. Skid steers are now what ...double that!!!???

[@Tractorguy9000]

it should have a chain on the pto gard so it does not spin

[@catharinlewis4]

There is a chain that comes with that PHD from Tractor Supply. I have the same one.

[@jonrusso59]

I don't run my anger at idle anymore,I run at. 3/4speed and runs better but I got a new that attaches to my front bucket and all hydraulic too...

[@stevebradley678]

From other videos I’m seen backing out every few inches would work better. It all looked good afterwards and it beats post hole diggers. I has a fence business back in the early 90s and I used a hand power auger, it would beat me to death. The one on the tractor is much better. Thanks Tim for sharing.

[@portugeeprepper6821]

What do you guys charge per hole typically?

[@danielboyd5455]

Casey 2.0 is set up with hydros right. Why not get a post hole digger for her, then it would be reversible

[@tyrrellroach5872]

I think I would be nice if jd or someone made a auger for the front loader that would run off the tractor hydraulics much like the ones for a mini skid steer and hopefully you could run a bigger auger.

[@cliffclark6441]

They do but these small tractors don't got the hyd to run one.

[@samwidmer2418]

A lot easier than digging them by hand haha

[@nathanbrodeur]

You definitely might highly need a bigger tractor with a cab for your new home and driveway cause the cold isn't good for the nose if one good bump when it's frozen it could fall off then where would you ware safety glasses or glasses you need a nose for both and to smell Cheeseburgers the John Deere 5 series has a buddy seat

[@g4outdoors]

How about a positive comment? As long as you didn't have to use a manual post hole digger, I'd say the little tractor did a great job!

[@TractorTimewithTim]

WooHoo! Needed it, G4! After all the ‘you dunnit wrong’ comments, this is refreshing! Thanks!

[@sunshine4530]

HOLE-E cow, thats alot of holes !Glad I'm not paying for all of that fence !

[@Pocketfarmer1]

Hi , I too needed to dig a little further down. So I welded up an extension out of heavy pipe . It does wobble a bit ,but if the hole is an inch wider who cares. Also the extension makes a good place for a pipe wrench for backing out when it gets good and stuck. Good luck.

[@jeffreymurdock8366]

Fill your bucket full of something to use as ballast to keep the front from being pulled off the ground

[@justinheathcoat7369]

What about a hydraulic gear box to put on the front end loader. Then it wouldn't be relying on the horsepower as much.

[@SledgeHammer43]

When you get a 3 series you will love that post hole digger. From experience once the post hole auger gets all the way down you should shovel the dirt away from the hole. Then remove the auger.

[@hsmith3844]

That is a piece of equipment I've thought about getting. Your video has pushed me to the point of NOT getting one. I would like to rent an implement for planting trees though.

[@AndyGarcia-ch1ci]

Sounds like another reason for the brand new 4044m! Or 4066! Haha!

[@lodprice2343]

Using the post hole attachment with Johnny sure beats doing it by hand. As others have written, you should pull the auger out more often to get rid of the dirt.

[@rohde42]

I'd like to see a guy fab up a bidirectional hydraulic motor with some hoses to your rear scv's in place of the pto shaft.

[@waltermattson5566]

You seem to be going all out lately,so I think the finance officer will let you get a bigger tractor too. The new house will have plenty of storage space.

[@ProjectsWithPat]

Tim, my 22 month old son falls asleep watching your videos. Haha. Not that’s it’s a bad thing. I enjoy them. He loves my Johnny. Always says “Tractor”. He enjoys watching these videos before bed.

[@TractorTimewithTim]

Thank you Patrick! We love these types of stories!

[@benalten9273]

Find a cat 0 post whole digger those work better with compact tractors

[@untitleduser2948]

I’ve got a bobcat skid steer s250 from 2005 can’t wait to try out an auger with all the power I am excited to do some fun projects

[@samline144]

I'd start looking into a track loader. Something like a bobcat t550 or 450 if you're getting into this type of work. Better at grading and more hydraulic power than your 1025.

[@jimmarshallman6300]

Might be a good idea Tim .... Me n Christy have a passion for skid steers ..... :)

[@flashsplat]

Hello, been enjoying your videos. Thinking about getting a tractor myself. Curious, if you removed the screw tip, do you think it would still do this? Would it allow you to push down into the hole versus it being pulled? Thanks.

[@williamhaynes7089]

three point hitches use gravity to push down... probably bad idea

[@retireddriver16]

You done really good with all those holes I have a tax post hole digger on my jd4200 you take it easy never had a problem good luck

[@braden8737]

Sometimes I wonder if ppl watch your videos on mute when they comment on something or make suggestions you've already explained.

[@TractorTimewithTim]

Thanks John! It has been difficult to read this comment stream for that reason!

[@wyett0172]

What is your favorite attachment

[@paulrine7447]

Thats a whole lot of holes.

[@houndsmanone4563]

Agree with you Tim & Christy. I would not have done the hole right beside the house for fear of hitting portion of his footings but if the customer wants it and is paying big bucks, then I guess.........follow the money. Enjoyed a full watch on your video. 👍

[@AgricultureINDIA-91]

Great video buddy! An Excellent attachment do the drill well! Thanks for sharing! Have a good one!

[@williamriley2528]

You're probably going to like it a HOLE lot better after you do those 51 holes, and all the posts you'll want to put in at your new 10 acre place

[@Malledeus86]

There should be room for error allowed in the plumness of your post hole though. You are making a bigger hole then necessary with the auger so they will have wiggle room to get their 4x4. I have the same setup with 1025r and TSC post hole digger, and i barely use it. Matter of fact i used my backhoe to dig almost all my fence posts last spring.

[@Chase_is_a_race]

Going to be using a auger on my RK19 Sub Compact this summer, should interesting. Definitely must be used much slower on a SCUT.

[@cobadee]

I believe you can change the tip of that auger to a less aggressive one. Maby look into that

[@larryrivers2752]

Tim, pretend It's a drill bit, clear hole often ( pull put auger often).

[@thersaholycow]

Interesting! Johny has a little more HP than my Mahendra yet it's physically a bit bigger. Like you I'm not big on using my post hole digger but my tractor has almost 2X the 3pt lifting power as Johny. I have drilled through hard clay and sandstone with it and I've never had the trouble with it catching. Maybe it's the lifting cap of the 3pt or something. I've found that if you drill down a bit then pull it up while its still spinning it clears some of that dirt and it's easier on the tractor. I clear the hole 4-6 times when I'm doing a post hole. Keep the bit spinning and it should fling the stuff off the bit at you get above ground level with it. Another trick some farmer showed me was to put the tip of your loader to the ground to help with the rocking motion you can get some times. The post hole diggers for bigger tractors pivot in 3 directions were mine only pivots forewords and back. How can I get a hold of you guys, I was wondering when you planned your trip down the AA in KY to see Christy's family? I'd like to show you my tractor and how it helps me around my property being disabled.

[@Curious_Skeptic]

I'm impressed it was still running and didn't blow the gear box! Maybe, Countyline brand isn't as bad as I'm thinking :) Looks like a 'skill' to be learned for sure. For a sub compact, I'm impressed with what you got done! Not too bad, not bad at all!

[@timblankemship9698]

Don't you think if you gave it more R? PM's it would turn faster. Then the drop of the three point hitch, which will break the dirt up faster and pull it up.Does that make sense

[@wayawolf1967]

I have a Yanmar 2620D with a ford post hole auger. This set up works great even in clay with floater rocks. I spin the auger much faster and lift quickly several times per hole to clean the bit and throw the dirt a little farther away from falling back in.

[@t.s.tractorworkstrickland5828]

If you change the tip to a paddle type instead of the screw type it will not get stuck as much. I have both kind and the paddle tip works better I hope this helps thanks for the nice videos

[@jasonderise60]

need to get an auger for casey makes it much easier

[@davewelch1932]

I have a 12" auger with rock bit. I wish had that problem in the holes I dig BC. Ever place I usually run into is gravel. My auger doesn't clean out holes. Monday I dug 5ft down. Only cleaned out 2.5 ft. Mostly gravel. Pissed me off. Been 30 years since I worked with clay. I have a Ditch Witch SK500. Compact skidsteer. Use a Prego bit. Running 75rpm at bit. With hydraulic motor. Do you ever run into rock?. Does it clean out?

[@DelawareDevil]

I see the PHD is a country line from Tractor supply. It is not designed for a sub compact tractor. Try the land Pride PD10, or Everything Attachments PHD are designed for subcompact tractors the auger length is 36 inches. And you can buy extensions. Prices run just over 1200 dollars and that includes the auger. When I've had use for a PHD I borrow one and keep moving it up and down and at a greater speed than you were using. I found that way it spins the dirt off into a neat mole hill. Up and down up and down up and down. Sounds like my TI in the army.

[@daddio7249]

This is one tool that the simple up or down three point lift control on my JD 1023E is better. I just give a little bump down and the lift catches itself after dropping about 6 inches. After a few bumps I bring it back up the clear the soil out before going back down. I am digging in Florida sand so even with a 12 inch auger it goes down easily. I am thinking about bolting a rod on top of the gearbox and hanging some chain from the top to use as a pendulum to tell when the auger is perfectly vertical.

[@088ben]

Have you thought about getting a hydraulic driven post hole digger to go on the fel instead. It would give you more control and also the ability to reverse the auger

[@loslosbaby]

Simple math: If the vertical feed rate of the hitch (push down) = the natural vertical feed rate of the auger's screw (rate) at a fixed RPM... (get this) *you are not augering*...you are drilling. If the rates were perfectly matched, you are just screwing the auger into the ground! If you keep the vertical feed rate LESS than the auger's natural "drill rate" at the RPM, then the auger will just transport the debris up. Oh, and do what Costanza says.

[@chaseledbetter5186]

This looks like a full size tractor auger. The bit is so far away from your lift you don't have the leverage to lift it out. I have an rk24 and a speeco subcompact PHD. The bit is way closer to the lift. I've never had mine get stuck. I couple of times it started to suck down, I'd immediately cut the pto off and wiggle and lift out but I think that PHD is too big for a subcompact

[@lukebrogno136]

A Auger for the case would be so much more ideal! Lots of control with them

[@TractorTimewithTim]

Yep.

[@suburbantractor9125]

About 20 years ago I installed my iron fence, a reproduction of what would have been used in the 1890's when my house was build. Probably about 60 post holes dug with a gas powered, hand held auger. Pretty sure if I had a 1025R back then with that attachment you have my lower back would still be in good shape! I see that the mini skid steers have a post hole digger attachment and I wonder how well they work? Thanks for taking us along!

[@chandlermilstead7548]

What we did with our auger is we welded a dually rim on it for extra weight on harder ground and our 50 hp Kubota has no problem

[@texasnative]

Does the 2038R have sufficient power to run the auger or is there still a lack of HP & hydraulic lift? I realize this video was probably before you bought Johnny #2.

[@pipeboy98]

i have no doubt that it stresses you out and that it can be a lot of work...but i'll tell you what...i would much rather sit there and mind the tool than what i did when i put in goat fencing. To save money on a rental, i took the ice head off of my ice auger and bought a 3" earth auger in order to put all of the 2.5" steel posts in the ground. That clay was so unforgiving. Same problems you were having only much less hp to spin the auger and i was the 3pt hitch! That sucked, but i did it. Fenced off an acres worth with posts every 8'. Hope to never do that again. After seeing this...that attachment that you dislike...looks like a much better option!

[@country2thesoul277]

I mounted a platform on top of my auger head so I can stand on it or in my case jump up and down on it to get more down pressure. I’ve learned I can accomplish more with a Manuel post hole digger than I can with my auger. Kinda stinks because they aren’t cheap.

[@TractorTimewithTim]

doubt I could get away with that. Too many safety sally's would have a fit.

[@inthefieldwithjbwfence7921]

The country line post hole digger has been the vain of my existence since I install fences for a living I took the gearbox attached a hydraulic motor and now run it on my front end loader cost me $700 using a really good motor And it’s the best thing ever having reverse as well as the down force from the loader my Massey gc1710 TLB likes it a lot better very smooth You could probably convert it for less than $300 if you bought everything off line I went to my local hydraulic shop Only took me about 3 hr and some welding

[@122276mjs]

I know this is an old video, but a sub compact is fine for digging holes, you need a post hole digger designed specifically for a sub compact tractor, not a 1 size fits all or one made to work. I had the same tractor as you and never had a problem in Western PA mud, clay and rock using an Everything Attachments post digger. I have a bigger tractor now, but it’s not your tractor.

[@swtbbyjms3806]

People just have to realize the 3 point auger is a waste. Nobody is going to have the best soil nor power to use these effectively. I’m drilling holes in rock free dry soil and it simply won’t drill. I have to continually break it loose with a bar and pull out the final product with a hand digger. The rental machines don’t use the three point system for a reason. Lack of proper engineering.

[@Tnapvrvideo]

I recently hand dug 64 post holes for 4"x4" fence posts with a basic, hand held post hole digger, a hand shovel, and my hands. Rocks and small boulders are always the issue. There is no escaping the need to use a small hand shovel and your hands when a rock stops the post hole digger. I'd still opt for a hand held unit over an auger that does not have a reverse gear - which no PTO offers. Tractors need a reverse gear on the PTO, if that is possible, to make an auger worth getting.

[@bobcat9501]

I bought one yesterday 10/9/21 I didn’t have issues using but I drilled one hole but I did a little at a time got a feel for that suction and raised 3 point quickly I’ll give more feedback got more to drill

[@matthewhayes7765]

How tight was this guy. Wouldn't pay you to dig out the loose. Came out measuring to make sure you're doing the job right, while asking if he can borrow your post hole hand diggers. So he didn't have to buy any. 😒🙄

[@trosk994]

It doesn’t matter the tractor size. Bigger the tractor bigger the problems from what I experienced. A hydraulic driven auger would be awesome so you could reverse it, I’m surprised they don’t make one yet.

[@joshmiller3673]

I have an older b6000 with loader, probably weighs a bit less than your jd, and it has 10 pto horsepower. Never had an issue with my post hole digger with pto power or hydraulic power. I "empty" the hole 2 or 3 times over the course of the hole.

[@davejalenderki]

Fire Johnny. Sounds like your problems are created due to Tractor frame size and HP rating. Try spinning your auger a little faster to clean the hole out better. Your cuttings are staying below the surface for too long.

[@great0789]

I was just looking these up on tractor supply. They have special small sized ones for subcompact tractors now. The one you have is meant for larger frames I think. Well… it is better on larger frames anyways. Obviously it works on the sun compacts as well.

[@ddddevyn]

Higher rpm, and pull up/clean off auger.. gotta have the rpm for hydraulic power but not let it bite too much before pulling back up to clean. Really tough to do without around 25+ horse It will always feel in the seat like your about to be digging really well but by then it's too late to get it back out and manually clean

[@andrewh5988]

I think you did a fair job of what size of tractor you have.

[@dunner8125]

What does it cost to have post holes dug these days?

[@AdamMuhle]

You're probably just doing what the customer requested, but there's no rule that says fence posts need to go below the frost line right? Our fence posts on the farm certainly don't go that deep! Or are they putting in a giant privacy fence and trying to combat wind blowing it over?

[@rogerf3622]

With any tractor you can screw the auger into the ground. Don’t do it. The key here is two fold. First run the tractor at full speed. Then go down 6” or so and pull it up quickly almost out of the hole. It throws the dirt from the auger. Repeat. You will have a clean bottom hole. Never ever screw it into the ground. Even the largest tractor may not be able to remove it. And if you break the torque bolt on the auger, you will be in a world of hurt.

[@terenfro1975]

Just be glad that loam wasn't dry. It's as hard as a rock and the only way to drill it is getting it wet for a day. Try adjusting your main pin in the middle of the auger. This will move your pivot. You may loose depth ability or you may drag your auger though.

[@donhepler294]

Make a wooden collar and frame that prevents the auger from sucking itself completely down. If all else fails, you have something rigid to pry against to force the bit out of the ground.

[@ericbutler4453]

Can you shorten the lift arms on Johnny at all ? Also, can you use the closest mounting hole to the end of the auger to give Johnny more mechanical advantage ? Lastly, put some dirt in the bucket of the front end loader or possibly some block or sakrete to give some front end ballast...

[@kevinh2743]

Perhaps you like clam shells better? Machine power is always better than man power. Now healthier than? That's another conversation lol

[@ddsgala4405]

We think the reverse would do it Johnny got it as far as going in.

[@michaelmactavish1728]

to bad deeres dont build a stall guard system on the tractor like kubota has to keep from stalling wich is a good system

[@bobcat9501]

Just a though but I you have weights handy throw them in the front loader 700lbs and raise it to counter the “suction”. I know I’m late to post

[@justingreen7274]

You need to have Case lend you the auger for the CX37C I would like to see how that works!

[@MrCheaterpipe]

I've actually built a reversible auger customer had extended his digger to drill deep holes and couldn't get the driveline angles we needed out of the modified implement so I built a bracket to mount a hydraulic motor on the auger gearbox and ran it off the tractors hydraulic system turned out ok