Trad Climbing on Diedre - Pitch 4, the money pitch

In my opinion, the money pitch of the climb. Though, pitches 3,4 and 5 are so similar, it may just boil down to which one you get a chance to lead.
For the aspiring trad leaders, this is a great chance to get a small taste of dihedral crack climbing. Despite the way the video may look, this is NOT a steep climb. The shallow angle provides a lot of confidence in your feet.
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[@cs7774]

Re PAS, why not just clove into a locker on the powerpoint of the anchor? It's adjustable, equalized (as much as your anchor, at least), the lightest possible option, can be rigged/disengaged with one hand, and is dynamic. When you're rapping, you can just use two slings.

[@StabBacker]

I love your videos and will not stop watching them even if changes are made but, could you tell us a little more what you meant about the narration bit? :) I really love the raw footage and the element of "trial and error". But some commentary on especially weird/difficult placements of gear and how and why you make an anchor the way you do would be awesome! Also, if people are very opposed to the idea, there is the option of putting commentary as captions as well if you really want it out there while not having it be auditory.

[@FirstPersonBeta]

Thanks for the advice. The narration comment was more along the lines of having a "sound track" to the video. Nothing more then just talking through some thoughts while I'm climbing. I didn't think about using cards as captions for commentary but I like the idea. There's some limitations to them I'd have to figure out. Appreciate the advice!

[@StabBacker]

​@@FirstPersonBeta Cheers for taking the time to reply dude, it really shows you care more about the community watching your stuff rather than just "I'm uploading this and see what happens"

[@dennisrice1557]

@@FirstPersonBeta the mip

[@daleanderson88]

As someone who live and climbs in Squamish it’s pretty cool to see you make your way out here and climb. Keep posting!

[@ZachTolar0313]

Ah yes, the ol' "Do you see a flashing red light on my GoPro?" Have to ask that all the time too. Nice video!

[@muddyfences5559]

Such a smooth lead. Thanks for posting.

[@shaungreene5745]

Looks like a great climb. Thanks for positing. I enjoy your videos.

[@maurovinicius9382]

your tranquility is amazing!! You read The Rock Warrior's Way? hahahahah nice videos brow

[@stuckcamping]

If the route is straight up, why are you extending all of the gear?

[@gimpdoctor8362]

personal choice, many wouldn't extend. I guess it depends on your history with losing cams from them going for a walk. If it happens once I'm sure it'd instill paranoia for the future.

[@FirstPersonBeta]

Force of habit I suppose. I've done a majority of my trad climbing in the Gunks, where you extend everything.

[@eugenejkim]

Just curious but if you keep adding a sling to your cams, why not just pre attach the sling to the cam when you rack up? You'll save yourself like 12 or 13 movements of attaching a sling to a piece of gear

[@FirstPersonBeta]

Mainly because the alpine draws especially get tangled up in the cams and it also makes it a little more cumbersome to handle. I have done that on very hard trad lines but generally only on select gear when already know the placements.

[@eugenejkim]

@@FirstPersonBeta Just tried it on Madam G, it was indeed a clusterfuck to unclusterfuck the clusterfuck on my harness 😂

[@gimpdoctor8362]

What a save!

[@awkwardbbq8332]

1 of my favorites. Though it was 5.7 and "line ups" were an issue

[@logann]

Clove hitch seems like the easy answer to the issue posed in the narration?

[@FirstPersonBeta]

Definitely one way to deal with it though I try to avoid using the rope as an anchor system.

[@logann]

Care to elaborate? From what I've read and seen in action seems like a minority opinion (not that that makes it wrong).

[@FirstPersonBeta]

In regards to tying into a pre-built anchor with a single attachment point, a clove is a pretty good strategy and one I use a good bit (obviously I didn't in this case. Why? I don't know). My PAS comment was more about building the anchor, which I try to avoid using the rope for. Largely because it's a pain to equalize and climbing rope becomes fairly cumbersome building anchors off of placed gear or chains.

[@MultiToxicAvenger]

That road sucks!