In this video I show you how to install the wiring and lighting for the saucer windows.
Пікірлер: 73
@johnatsf1564 Жыл бұрын
So great we still have the great Trekworks, the O.G. of modeling how to videos. You helped start a load of other channels on KZbin and helped out other modelers !Thanks, Boyd, for your service!
@TrekWorks Жыл бұрын
Thanks, it's been great watching the many new modeling channels popping up and sharing the hobby we all love.
@tachi98lep Жыл бұрын
Love how clean and not bulky your lighting system is for your models!
@TrekWorks Жыл бұрын
Thanks, it's simple but effective and reliable.
@joelesrig73885 ай бұрын
First light test. Thanks Boyd ! Couldn’t have done it without your incredible help.
@RossAWaddell Жыл бұрын
Love this build! Just a note: the +ve and -ve terminals on LED strips are in parallel, so you can daisy chain them with no loss of voltage to the downstream strips. Power would only be interrupted if one of the wires broke.
@msrushing989 Жыл бұрын
This is like watching the Joy of Painting, but with Trek Models. Boyd needs to get a pet squirrel.
@TrekWorks Жыл бұрын
Hah, you aren't the first person to mention that :) I loved Bobs show so I'll take it :)
@outsider238 Жыл бұрын
Top notch work on the lighting! It's good that you know how to do all that. I've never understood the mathematics behind the current, power needed, what the lights can handle, etc.
@TrekWorks Жыл бұрын
Thanks, it's not all that complicated these days. If you operate everything at 9 volts a 470 ohm 1/4 watt resistor will work for almost any type of LED. The LED strip lighting has built in resistors and will work fine anywhere between 9-12 volts dc. The SMD's are also pre wired with resistors to work between 9-12 volts dc. In most cases with lighting models, 9 volts is perfect for the level of brightness which is why I stick to that.
@outsider238 Жыл бұрын
@@TrekWorks Oh okay! That's very good to know! I've noticed that you use 9 volts frequently so that explains it. Thank you for the tip! 😁
@HobbyLinkInternational Жыл бұрын
Excellent video Boyd. Thank you for going through your whole process of wiring and lighting so far for the build. See you in the next one :)
@JoeCortezII Жыл бұрын
I appreciate the details this time around. Thanks for taking it slow and showing us the process! Great work.
@perrylamb6286 Жыл бұрын
Boyd, this is very cool. Your attention to wiring detail is excellent. Watching this was way fun. This build is going to be awesome when complete.
@eliotanders3488 Жыл бұрын
I hope these videos around when I get to retire, and I can use this as a template to build my Enterprise. Good stuff!
@TrekWorks Жыл бұрын
They will be unless of course You Tube itself were to go away.
@Joepacker Жыл бұрын
Great info Boyd. I followed your way of lighting on my 1/537 scale refit last year, she still looking good after hours and hours of being turned on.
@TrekWorks Жыл бұрын
Cool to hear this stuff helped you out :)
@MVK_GS Жыл бұрын
The light blocking is perfect on this model. My first attempt at that (same model) was not as successful because some light came through the seams despite using plenty of putty. But I am learning a great deal here.
@theonerod1 Жыл бұрын
At final test the strip light on the port side has some dead LED's. But you probably caught that by now. Great looking stuff!
@TrekWorks Жыл бұрын
Good eye! I did see it after I did the burn in time on the bench. Goes to show there's a good reason to test them :)
@digitalman7534 Жыл бұрын
Boyd, thank you very much for the build series. 👍
@rev.raymondrodriguez3491 Жыл бұрын
Looks amazing! Another masterpiece in the works
@Kens_Model_Shop Жыл бұрын
Boyd great update on the upper saucer section for lighting on this Refit build looking forward on the next update thanks for sharing have a great day.
@TrekWorks Жыл бұрын
Thanks Ken, Happy holidays buddy.
@miketolpa4449 Жыл бұрын
It’s hard to say how much your help is appreciated Boyd. But I’ll try. ❤ you’re the best. It’s a crazy world and hobbies help me keep it together… and you help with that. You make a difference. Thank you.
@TrekWorks Жыл бұрын
Thank you, glad to hear the videos help you out. A good hobby never hurt anybody :)
@danmccann8813 Жыл бұрын
Have you ever considered using a wide bowl to set the saucer on for stability while you work in it? I'm still in the gathering and research mode, though I have played with some of the interiors, and I feel your videos are a must for all the little tips you give.
@ShawnMcClureModeler Жыл бұрын
Fantastic video series Boyd!
@TrekWorks Жыл бұрын
Glad your enjoying it. It's been really fun working on a Refit again.
@abundantYOUniverse Жыл бұрын
Is there a little Scotty helping you? Cause that looks a little too real! :)
@jasonshortt7 Жыл бұрын
I've been watching this new series and it's inspired me to get out my 350 Enterprise again and try again. What wire are you using nowadays? I think you mentioned it at some point but I think I missed it. If I recall correctly you're not using the magnet wire anymore?
@oldatarigamer Жыл бұрын
Great teacher!
@triskellian Жыл бұрын
Nice and steady indeed! This'll be on par with all of your other builds. I was wondering, what kind of insulation is covering you wrapping wire? Looking forward to the next video.🙂
@TrekWorks Жыл бұрын
It's vinyl I believe.
@triskellian Жыл бұрын
@@TrekWorks Thanks Boyd. It almost looked like that magnet wire you used to use. 30 gauge is pretty fine, even stranded!
@wesleybeaver Жыл бұрын
@@triskellian The insulation is called Kynar; and the wire is solid core, not stranded. There is 30ga vinyl wire that is much thicker than the wire wrap wire, so be wary when ordering.
@triskellian Жыл бұрын
@@wesleybeaver Thanks for the information! I've tried solid wire before and I found it not flexible enough for my uses. I like 26 gauge stranded wire the best on many of my projects.
@MajorStark7064 Жыл бұрын
These videos are a huge help… can’t express my thanks enough. I’m new when it comes to electronics…. Question on the positive/negative rings of wire you’re soldiering to. Any concerns with the positive /negative soldering points being so close together? Is there
@TrekWorks Жыл бұрын
No, as long as you secure them with good glue it will be fine.
@MajorStark7064 Жыл бұрын
@@TrekWorks Wonderful, thank you so much and your skills are top notch!!
@edsgarage9966 Жыл бұрын
Thank you for going slow with the solder Technik. I tend to get overzealous with it and burn through stuff.
@MrChief101 Жыл бұрын
Where'd you get those nifty grey "helping hands?" (joke) Yeah-- why those guys used such heavy duty wire gauge for simple LED lighting is a mystery. 30ga can handle a half amp, for example. I very much agree with the tip of doing each joint as you go-- I have,, indeed, left joints undone! Luckily discovered out of the project.
@joe5126111 ай бұрын
Boyd, I've got a problem. I don't own one of those machines to test power. How would I go about it with only 9v batteries?
@stevebak6664 Жыл бұрын
Boyd, great build series. I am enjoying and learning. Question: why did you start with using magnet wire for the LEDs and then migrate to wire wrap? Why didn’t you use one or the other for all of them? Confused about that.
@TrekWorks Жыл бұрын
I switched to the wrapping wire a few years ago when I found it. Mainly because it's more flexible and the vinyl coating is easier to strip.
@stevebak6664 Жыл бұрын
@@TrekWorks Very good, sir. Noted. I will try the wire wrap wire as well. Thanks again and keep up the good work. Your work is top notch.
@bryantphil5577 Жыл бұрын
I just got the mega board complete kit. They don't show where led or smd actually go. Is there a place to see led locations?
@danharris5999 Жыл бұрын
Great work as always Boyd! I was wondering how the officers lounge was going to be lit. Can you tell me if you removed any additional plastic from the inner support ring after all the side pieces were secured and puttied? That's what it looked like from what I could see.
@TrekWorks Жыл бұрын
Yes I initially had not cut out the plastic wide enough.
@danharris5999 Жыл бұрын
@@TrekWorks That's what it looked like when I was watching today (yesterday?) Makes sense though. With the side pieces already locked down and puttied, the openings could be widened without sacrificing structural integrity.
@derekbrake1415 Жыл бұрын
Hi Boyd. Do you ever use an epoxy for added structural strength on the upper saucer joins or elsewhere on the model? Love the vids… great tutelage for when I do mine.🙏🏼
@TrekWorks Жыл бұрын
I guess it depends. In most cases good clean plastic parts glued together with a quality model glue is very strong. But, in places of high load due to weight, like the neck/saucer area of this model, I'll use expoxy for extra support.
@thomasloney6124 ай бұрын
I'm a somewhat beginning modeler, working on this for the first time. Actually, I've been working on it for 3 years or so! Anyway, any recommendations for not covering details? I used a white Tamiya primer and flat white paint, and the panel lines, especially the ones on the area behind the impulse dome above the engines, end up getting filled in with paint. Same with the details in the blue area surrounding the impulse dome. I understand this can be avoided by using less paint, but when I do that every time I buff that area I end up taking paint off of it, even with 1500 grade sanding foam.
@dustinparker9456 Жыл бұрын
Hey. Looking good so far. On the subject of this video and somewhat not, have you had a chance to work with LED filament wire? I’ve seen them lately in some other models. Mainly used to create fire or rocket flame. I was thinking of using some in my 350, but also I’m doing the 1/1000 refit. In the small refit I think it would work the best. Especially in the warp necells. The LED tape in the smaller refit loves to show hot spots. For the 350 depending on the density and how small in length I’m thing for the bridge flood lights. You thoughts?
@TrekWorks Жыл бұрын
Interesting, I haven't used it yet but can see it could be useful for certain lighting situations.
@cwam1701e Жыл бұрын
Again, so good to have this in detail from a master builder! I have a question: sometimes when I have done lighting that includes navigation and strobe lighting I notice that when the strobes flash the other lights dim. Obviously I am not supplying enough power somewhere but I am using the correct voltage for both the board and the led strips (like you, I use 9V) and I almost always use pre-wired leds or smds which are rated for 9V usage. Do you have any suggestions for what I am doing wrong? Maybe you could address that in one of your future videos? Many thanks!
@RossAWaddell Жыл бұрын
Your power supply isn’t regulated and that’s why the always-on lights dim when the nav/strobe lights flash. Get a good switching power supply and it keeps the supplied current steady.
@TrekWorks Жыл бұрын
It may be a lack of amperage issue. If not enough, the lights will dim when the additional load kicks in (the blinking). I suggest using a 2 amp power supply at minimum. Going too high won't hurt anything because the circuit will only draw what it needs. Too low and problems can occur.
@cwam1701e Жыл бұрын
@@TrekWorks Many thanks, I will check the amperage of the power supply
@cwam1701e Жыл бұрын
@@RossAWaddell Many thanks; I have been thinking of the voltage rather than the current so from what you and Boyd have said it looks like that is the problem.
@w3vjp5687 ай бұрын
I really need to get a bench power supply.
@pumpin51 Жыл бұрын
I am new to building and I am following your videos. I have a a few questions. Do you have a supply list? What glue are you using? I remember in that past some glue would destroy parts so I want to be careful. I also need a airbrush. Mine is from the 90's and it was junk then. What would you recommend? Any other parts I should order? I ordered all the 3d printed parts recommend by you from HDA .
@TrekWorks Жыл бұрын
There is a supply list of what I used here at the end of the video. I'm using CA glue to glue the LED tape and wiring in place along with the accelerator for it to make it dry quickly. For the model itself, any quality model glue suitable for styrene plastic will work. For clear parts, I use canopy glue. It won't melt or stain those. I recommend the Iwata eclipse airbrush for general airbrush painting and their HP series for fine detail work. I have both and with good maintenance they will last for years.
@Custerd1 Жыл бұрын
Have you ever considered silver paint - or even aluminum foil -as light blocking?
@TrekWorks Жыл бұрын
I wouldn't use foil because it is conductive and not a good idea around the electrics. Surprisingly, it adds a lot of weight too. I've found that white is the best for reflecting and not changing the color of the light. With silver, I noticed the light in the windows etc, would look either blueish or even green.
@kdryan21 Жыл бұрын
Great job, Boyd. Would filling the holes with canopy glue or something to diffuse the light so they look more like windows instead of pin pricks of light work or would they be too dark?
@TrekWorks Жыл бұрын
Do you mean the window ports? If so, yes, I use canopy glue on those if they are small enough and it works great. It doesn't dry completely clear so it eliminates the sparkly light from the LED's. Also, the clear UV curing resin, Solarez, works excellent. That's probably what I'll use on the saucer edge windows here.
@captaincoffeecake3595 Жыл бұрын
I’ve had good results using liquid flux on the led ribbons when soldering wires to it , also I try to keep my solder temps under 350. Do u run into any issues ever burning any of the ribbons or connectors on your boards ?
@TrekWorks Жыл бұрын
I'm using 60/40 rosin core solder on these thin wires so no flux is needed. I haven't had issues with burning anything as the very hot tip only takes a second to do the job and the heat doesn't get time to soak in.
@tom_k35 Жыл бұрын
What type of dupli color primer do you use? I'm following along your build for tips while building an original AMT TOS Enterprise. I eventually want to build a refit but it's a bit of a challenge right now.
@moki123g Жыл бұрын
A little late but, you soldering iron is way too hot. The solder you are using has flux in it, when your iron is so hot it just boils off the flux and makes things harder to solder. 300c or 540f is plenty hot for that work. I will also melt the insulation and cause pullback. It also causes the tip to degrade much faster.