1:350 USS Enterprise Refit By Polar Lights Updated Build Series Pt 7

[@nicholasdickens2801]

God bless you Boyd. ❤

[@brianwilson2515]

THANK YOU FOR BEING SO CLEAR ON EXPLAINING YOUR CONNECTIONS AND PAINTING, REALLY APPRECIATED.

[@HeritageRoad99]

Hi Boyd. Years ago I first saw your 1:350 Enterprise build. You inspired me to get back in to model building. Eventually I acquired 2 of the 1:350 refit models. I will be starting on them both start of this coming year. One will be Enterprise-A, the other Yorktown NCC-1717. Thank you for your expertise and sharing over the years. Happy building Boyd.

[@ShawnMcClureModeler]

Great method for the bridge attachment Boyd. Looking world class as usual.

[@ebt12]

There was a surprise when I woke up on Christmas Day, and another on New Years Day. Thanks, Boyd!

[@mistakeman]

I'm loving this build series. The paint work on the B/C deck is gorgeous. Thanks for the video!

[@MichaelJShaffer]

What a way to kick off '23! The beauty of this ship and your artistry never gets old, Boyd.

[@misterlyle.]

Absolutely the perfect strategy for the red pin-striping!! Thanks for sharing the details.

[@k2sworld]

I always look forward to these updates. I have this kit sitting in a closet and every time I see it, I'm intimidated by it. Your step by step videos take some of that anxiety away. But I also don't want to start it and then be distracted by life and have it sit, unfinished, like so many big projects end up.

[@22esprince]

See now I didn't have much of an issue with my pinstripe decal for the BC deck when I did mine a while back. I think it tore in a couple of places, but I always use a mixture of distilled water with a little bit of Dawn dish soap and I apply it generously to the surface I'm putting the decals on, and it makes it to where I can slide things around pretty easy and get those broken pieces to line up. It was a bit of work but it wasn't any worse than trying to mask and paint.

[@outsider238]

Oh wow!! So much incredible work you've done. That was a clever way to attach the bridge! I like the tone of the light in the officer's lounge too. That shuttle bay is nothing short of amazing!! Love the chasing lights. The arboretum was always my favorite part of this model. Just being able to see that nice little park inside was cool. Scotty mowing the lawn is awesome!! Really, really great work on this Boyd!!

[@Custerd1]

I was gonna say that Scotty would have developed some kind of robotic lawn mower, but... he needs the exercise.... LOL

[@henryschmitt7577]

Awesome 😎 work and painting on the refit 😁👍

[@swpowell1226]

This was a GREAT video. Very detailed with a lot of information. Appreciate it Boyd. Keep up the excellent work !!!

[@ricardoortiz-wn6ff]

The saucer is looking good. ...the hanger deck looks amazing its gonna look killer in there once it's covered in lightning 🖖😁

[@brandonb1681]

Thanks man...for all the tips and tricks and stuff.

[@darthamidala]

Just brilliant. I’ve been sitting on a bunch of Trek kits including this one for many years. I can’t bring myself to build any of them because I don’t have the talent or the time or the cash to pay someone to build them for me, and I’m at the point that I’d rather leave them brand new in the box if I can’t have them look as good as yours. So I’ll just continue to watch your videos and appreciate these models done in a way I can only dream about. Thank you!

[@YdnarLah37]

Great update Boyd, that shuttle bay is a real jewel.

[@davidchin350]

Nice detail lighting, looking real good 👍

[@fubarmodelyard1392]

I really like the longer videos and looking forward to the other projects as well

[@MrDravenLee]

Great build Boyd. Happy new year to you and your family! All the best for 2023. 🙏🙏👍👍

[@johnatsf1564]

Scotttys space mower. 😆!

[@tonyperez4791]

Happy new Year Boyd. Wish you and your family a Great, healthy and prosperous 2023 !

[@forthwithtx5852]

I see you’ve jumped ahead a bit. 😉 Really nice work, as always!

[@GPGPapercraftTX]

Doll House Tape. Copper stripping wit adhesive on the back. Stick a buss on the hull and just solder individual wires to the buss, not other wire.

[@AvengerII]

The red pinstriping around the bridge decks looks fine, Boyd! To think, the painters or modelers were going to suggest FAR MORE pinstriping than what they ended up with on this model (what they used for the motion pictures)! 😅 Today, they could perhaps automate the process (IF they cared to spend that money; probably still cheaper to hire people than build a robot painting arm!) and save some poor human being his sanity in painting such thin stripes! At least the main Hero shooting miniature of the Enterprise (the 8-footer) was more forgiving in adding detail like this!

[@lestatdelc]

Good video (as always). You mentioned in the previous video that you would be showing how you add the soffit lighting in the docking ports, but I didn't see you show it. Was hoping you were going to show it in this one, but no luck. I do hope you show it in the next one (since you are working on the neck (which has two torpedo deck docking ports). I have seen one other build out there which has them incorporated into it, but I'm very interested to see what you method/solve is for doing that.

[@alanpoyser6738]

Happy new year to you Boyd. It could not have started better for me than watching your enterprise refit video your work is incredible. I got a lovely surprise over Christmas from my family the enterprise E from AMT and thanks to your videos from that build I am looking forward to soon starting mine.

[@tagamomodelworx4262]

Looking Good! Happy New Year! buddy.

[@TrekWorks]

Happy New Year Tag :)

[@rickgregory9616]

I'm at awe of your talent and expertise. You're definitely a Master Modeler! I could learn a lot from you if we were in the same State! Happy New Year!

[@theensignschair]

Your techniques are always brilliant Boyd, but that technique to get the pinstripe around the B/C Deck and the Perfect Plastic Putty trick to seal around the bridge are pure Genius! Happy New Year!

[@TrekWorks]

Thanks, Wil, just some things I stumbled on over the years. Happy New Year to you and yours :)

[@MrChief101]

Doesn't matter how neat you make it, there's 60 lights in there. A rat's nest no matter how you name it. But fascinating to see this in full.

[@dustinparker9456]

A little detail I noticed since your on this part. Go back and look at the scene when Spock arrives. You see a good close side of the B-C deck. The window lights are a teal blue all the way around. Maybe color the glass from the inside with a teal color sharpie?

[@TrekWorks]

That scene was shot with a huge model of just the B/C deck so it looks a little different than the actual model did. They did the same with a lot of the extreme close up shots like the one in Wrath of Khan and the up close shot of the neck and torpedo bay taking the phaser hits.

[@AvengerII]

@@TrekWorks The models are NEVER the same when they change scales! They usually put extra details or change something. I still think the models of the Enterprise-D shuttlebay and the large neck/torpedo bay of the Refit Enterprise are neat. They got a LOT of mileage out of that oversize build of the neck/torpedo bay in the movies. The durability of those miniature pieces is amazing. Just wished Bezos would let someone with the skill restore the 8-ft shooting miniature. The pictures I've seen of it shown an awful lot of mini-cracks in the paint as well as smashed plexiglass all over that model -- damage probably gained by crated and shipped all over the world for exhibitions. It should have been repaired at least 15 years ago but "Dr. Evil" won't let anybody with the skill to repair that model!

[@dustinparker9456]

@@TrekWorks Not being a pain in the butt. For TMP they had the big studio model for all the shots and a really small model to but up against the vger ship for scale. They weren’t ILM and the movie was rushed with budget in mind. Which is why they didn’t finish the red pin stripe on the warp necells. Yes in ST2 and 6 the had sections and other models. But as for the blue window lights. There also shown in the bridge flyby in dry dock. And at the end before vger blows it’s self up when it’s the energy beam before boom. 3 separate scenes and the B-C deck lights are blue. While I was confirming my screenshots I also noticed a error with the rec deck windows. Every kit and the photoetch only has 4 rectangle windows but if you go back and look at the shot of Kirk and Scott glide down from back of the saucer to the airlock. You see the windows there are 4 rectangles and small round at each side.

[@dustinparker9456]

@@AvengerII it’s a shame Bezos has the model. He won’t let any go into Blue Origin just to take pictures. As for details of the D and TNG ships. The color we see is not the color of the paint. Not even close. Starfleet ships looked grayish on screen but in person there baby blue. The only time on film when the D looked like it’s real color is when they made the big saucer for Generations. The crash landing scene was filmed outside in sunlight. Natural light gave us its natural color. Adam Savage on his Tested channel recently went back to the Smithsonian and did a vid with the TOS enterprise and even its color is off from what we saw on screen. Even the weathering detail. He did point out a trick current model makers do when there painting or doing other details. There do it then take a picture and look at it on a screen as see how it looks and make adjustments to see how it looks on screen because that’s where studio models matters. Which is why the TOS enterprise is green and the C and D are blue.

[@TrekWorks]

@@dustinparker9456 They actually built in the interior detail in a lot of the windowed areas of the model. Much more than just the arboretum and the officers lounge and rec deck. That might account for some of the color changes in some of the windows.

[@MrMrtoby05]

So glad to have another instructional video from you Boyd! I do have a question: When you get ready to attach to lower saucer to the upper side would you mind please going into a little more detail on how you actually do the final putty work and painting of that putty work at the adjoining seam? I'm guessing you will have the lower saucer completely painted as well when you mate the upper and lower. The most challenging aspect of this to me is how to get a nice, "seamless" finish when the two saucers are bonded together. Thanks in adavance!

[@TrekWorks]

Hello Keith, yes, I'll cover that in good detail.

[@kjpphotography4764]

Looking good. Did you check to make sure where the Solder dropped on you blocking paint that now light is coming through in that area?

[@MarcelStrasser-dj8sd]

Hi Boyd, great work and and an very important informative video! I´m working on my refit since 1,5 years now and with every problem solved more questions popping up. I´ve received my control board now and I just realized, how many wires I have to organize! I have thought about putting it into the secondary hull... Have you or anyone else here experiences with that so far?

[@suddeneye9836]

Boyd, please, please, please show us how you paint the ship. Please show the process. Please.

[@stamps45]

Looks great !

[@hotelgulf]

Thought for sure you were going to bump the bridge from touching it so much after putty!😂

[@salc9593]

Hello Boyd, thank you for posting this most informative video it's been a great help in my own build. I do have a question, in which video do you show how you install the phasers on the upper saucer section. I've viewed Parts 1 through 6 a number of times and I did not see it. Please keep up the great video to help us who are returning to scale model building.

[@bouliverkaigasse3816]

PLEASE! What is your idea for the phaser turrets on the saucer? I've seen some online but I can't find them now. Nevermind. I found them at shapeways. Thanks anyway.

[@WorldofWayneUK]

Absolutely loving this build series. I’m starting this for myself shortly so your tips are excellent. I don’t suppose you could list colours used for a/b deck in the description. Unfortunately I’m colourblind and have to rely on folks giving me an idea lol. Amazing job though

[@TrekWorks]

Hello Wayne, I'm a fan of your channel. I'm using Tamiya paints for the model and I will be showing the paints I have. There about 6 colors I chose for the model but unfortunately none of them are exactly right. They need to be tinted slightly lighter or darker in some cases. There just isn't anything out there that is a perfect match besides the basic hull color. One of the many pain in the cabooses with this kit. I'll definitely tune in to watch your progress and best of luck to you with your build.

[@WorldofWayneUK]

@@TrekWorks Thank you Boyd. Not ganna lie. This kit terrifies me. Once you see the potential to what you can do with it it becomes a little intimidating but that's what challenges are for :D Thanks for replying :D

[@Ryker06]

@@TrekWorks Did you ever show the Tamiya paints?

[@eduardoarias2972]

Hi Boyd, My name is Eduardo Arias and I am a subscriber to your KZbin channel. I've been following you for quite some time and I must tell you that your work is super excellent and I find it inspiring, especially the tips and tricks of all kinds that you make available to the community. I am now following you on the new Entrerprise 1701 Refit build. I have a favor to ask: Can you enable subtitles for part 7 of the build?

[@jcmodelcreations]

Thanks for this updated series. It’s pretty great. Quick question. Which paint brands did you use for the details? Are you using Vallejo paints or Testors?

[@TrekWorks]

I'm using all Tamiya paints for the hull details and the McKensie lacquer based iridecent's for the aztec patterns.

[@Daniel-Strain]

Amazing work! I was pretty sure that crystal on top of the impulse engines was a blue light instead of orange though (sorry if you addressed this, I'm not able to watch with sound atm).

[@TrekWorks]

As in the film, it can change colors from orange to blue. This happens when the ship goes from impulse to warp drive.

[@Daniel-Strain]

@@TrekWorks Oh wow, I never realized that (and I pay attention to that stuff lol). Thanks!

[@chrisgwilliam9893]

👍🏻 beautiful

[@kdryan21]

Happy New Year to you and your family, Boyd! Great to start the new year off with a video from you. :) What is the name of the kicker you use or do you have a link to it?

[@TrekWorks]

It's called Insta-Set. Available at almost any hobby shop or online. They sell it in both pressurized cans or in a pump spray bottle.

[@thomasloney612]

I've been working on this kit for a couple of years! What are your thoughts about painting and doing azetc before assembly? Most of the videos I've seen have the kit assembled prior to painting the aztec, with the windows masked off. It feels liek it would be much easier to aztec each part before installing windows and assembling it. Any thoughts in which is easier, or has better results?

[@GJ-st5hk]

Happy New Year Boyd and thanks for another video! In Pt 7 when looking at the inside of the upper saucer section, it appeared you had used the clear kit window pieces for the B/C deck, is that correct? If so, did/will you use anything else on the outside to finish them off? I believe you said you were using "solar res" (is that the correct product?) for the majority of the windows...Thanks again!

[@TrekWorks]

Other than a light dusting of white on the inside, the kit supplied windows there will be fine. I used them because they actually fit pretty good. A lot of the other kit glass does not. What ever I use to fill in the windows from the outside towards the end I'll need to make sure that it isn't too clear and I don't see a twinkling effect from the LED's. Canopy glue works well for this. If I use Solrarez, I make mix in a bit of white paint with it. Just enough to diffuse it. I've heard this works pretty good.

[@GJ-st5hk]

@@TrekWorks Thanks for the quick response. I'll be closing up my saucer parts soon and looking for tips on windows before I do so.

[@paulalanryder5397]

on the impulse engines could you use a flat topped LED Boyd ? better spread of light with a flat topped LED

[@TrekWorks]

In person they look pretty evenly lit. The camera makes them look like they are glaring.

[@RyanBendel]

@TrekWorks - I might have blinked and missed it Boyd, but at what point did you glue the bridge to the hull? I saw that you used putty then tape, but from your comment about only that putty holding it in place, do you not also glue it somehow? Could it not get dislodged with that putty? I thought when you flipped it over you were going to trickle some CA glue or something inside. Would love to see you do more of these, or maybe another up to date NX!!

[@robertthornton1171]

It's always fascinating to watch your wiring layouts. But on a bit different note I am wondering if you have ever tried to match some of the Hobby Lobby Acrylic paint colors to federal standard colors. Or just best match? Mainly U S Navy ships and aircraft WWII to present. Also looking forward to your Sci-fi modeling show in San Antonio.

[@TrekWorks]

I've not matched to federal standards but I'm pretty good at mixing colors to get a match to my eye. I have a background in automotive painting and spot repairs and learned from that.

[@lyndonbrock8684]

Hi Boyd, which glue do you use for gluing pieces together so the paint doesn't melt.

[@adamgriffiths1703]

I noticed you used a couple of types of CA Glue here. A thin and another. What it the other type?

[@Cin0s3]

Can you explain the paint colors you are using at some point?

[@dcromp1]

🥰

[@kingscorpion7346]

with all the wires going everywhere, just think: to build a REAL starship Enterprise, and all the wiring and opticable that would go into that!

[@johndonigan7039]

Boyd, no subtitles? I find them really helpful.

[@josephstanley5138]

U have the bridge interior Boyd

[@paulalanryder5397]

Boyd going to use trekworks wiring harness do you think it would be OK to cut the wires out and solder 30 AW wire into it buuilt ralphs mega board brillint model but want it accurate

[@TrekWorks]

Do you mean the Trek Modeler lighting kit? I haven't used one of those so I don't know much about it.

[@TrayChester01]

I thought that the clear plastic used for retail packaging yellows, cracks, breaks and turns to dust over time?

[@TrekWorks]

Maybe if it sat in direct sunlight for a long time it would. I've got models close to 15 years old that I did this and the clear plastic still looks good as new.

[@TrayChester01]

@@TrekWorks Good to know! 🙂

[@rbuschy]

the playlist for this build does not include this vid or Pt2

[@rbuschy]

or Pt6

[@bradleymarks]

It isn't glass it is transparent aluminum... see Star Trek 4: The Voyage Home...

[@bryantphil5577]

Would have been easier to spray red put in stripe tape then spray grey