Tricks for removing stubborn or broken bolts | Hagerty DIY

[@beobe99]

Good job! In my experience - first, spend 20 minutes looking for your vice-grips - then - bang your knee on the corner of the table. As you're on the ground rubbing your knee have wife/girlfriend come in to ask if you're going to mow the lawn or not because it's about to rain for 20 days and nights. Find vice-grips in a box under the table labeled "not vice-grips". FINALLY, grab your torch that has just enough gas to heat it up halfway and break off the ear of the casting - go purchase a new casting that costs $1200.

[@garrettwight1027]

Dude, I really hope that was a creative writing exorcise and not based on a real life experience 😕

[@beobe99]

@@garrettwight1027 It was an exaggerated reality I think we can all agree with, at least parts of.

[@mobiledevto]

@@garrettwight1027 that is life.

[@game4alaughman]

Wow am not the only one 🤔

[@MadMax-cw3pn]

Or the wife interrupts with cheese toasties and finger foods

[@marvbush5592]

I was glad to hear you clean the threads out of the hole with a tap. As a Michigan tool and diemaker (Grand Rapids) I run into this all the time. You did a great job teaching this. As a seasoned T&D I know a good Technical Trainer when I hear them and you sir are one of them. Pay Attention to this man people.

[@fixedguitar47]

Doing it ALL wrong. You swear and scream at it till it removes itself!

[@jamesmoore3346]

LOL

[@cameroncrane3770]

Doesn't quite work like people. You might have to roundhouse it.

[@robertlund5694]

You forgot step one! 1. Carry item to main street on Saturday afternoon then commence with your method (i.e. - step 2).

[@MrAlittle5150]

Don't forget to go to the liquer store and pickup some beer before you start.

[@JungleYT]

Gee, I thought that cursing would do it?

[@kellyfull611]

Haven’t been to many welding shops that were more than happy to help me with anything ha. Better off finding a friend to help out

[@painmagnet1]

Kelly Full An automotive machine shop is the more likely choice to recommend. Welding shops aren't typically going to be skilled in this kind of procedure.

[@magicone9327]

100 + per shop hour charge they should be very happy.

[@alfredosantana622]

@@magicone9327 Welding shop guys who know their trade are expensive. They are happy as long as you meet their fees, ha.

[@pappabob29]

All good and thank you !! One additional "tip" that needs to be included on this subject is to suggest the use of "Anti-Seize" when using studs or bolts in aluminum.

[@Formulabruce]

I use "Copper" anti seize because regular Anti Seize IS Aluminum, and you want dis similar metals..

[@kevinapierce]

I use service removable loctite it stops the oxidation

[@fatcat4155]

I use that stuff on everything.

[@chrisstephens6673]

PTFE plumbers tape works well as anti stick.

[@wreckandraceify]

I'll add a couple things that have worked for me. Use a nut about 2 sizes bigger than the bolt or stud, it allows the weld to travel all way down the remaining threads and is less likely to break the nut off. 2nd tip for steel in steel, weld it, let it sit a minute, hit the bolt only with a shot of penetrating oil, then try a wrench on it. By spraying the hot bolt/nut it is cooled quickly and almost breaks the seized threads away from the tapped hole.

[@tedhewitt4299]

Thanks for showing those methods Dave. I especially like the nut welded on.

[@greengeeker1]

He's 2 for 2 in 5 minutes and I'm like 2 for 50 lifetime.

[@Chevy-hw6lw]

That’s better than me , I’m about 2 for 150. Lol

[@BearBoris]

@@Chevy-hw6lw It's normal. His were easily accessible and you have a much better chance when the bolt is in aluminum cuz it expands more than steel and loosens itself. =)

[@danoelfke93]

@@Chevy-hw6lw me too lol

[@BassFace1776]

@@greengeeker1 That's cuz he's got it on the bench and not using harbor freight easy outs lol

[@kurtismckemmie4850]

I'm so glad that I came across to your channel! I have two hex bolts that will not come out of my disc rotor. I stripped the head while trying other methods all at the same time. One thing I have no experience with is welding. I'm gonna try taking it to my welding shop.

[@brjr2009]

I was taught way way back to use a rich acetylene flame, and soot up the area where your going to heat. When the part is heated the soot will stay in place. When the soot disappears (burns off) the part is heated to just below the melting point of the aluminum.

[@stewartbruce8902]

Just the answer I was looking for. Trying to remove bolt from aluminun lawn mower engine. Thank you.

[@gtoger]

Another bit of useful tech from Davin! I'm a big fan of fixing with fire.

[@p1epoppa]

I had a seized exhaust flange stud and a guy heated it up with an oxy-acytelene torch and used a pipe wrench to back it out. The pipe wrench to me worked a little better than vise grips because it grips harder as pressure is applied.

[@AshishKumar-om2fv]

Sir , Please make more videos of engine rebuilding time lapse..... Your videos all 6 to 7 are just incomparable...... They are just a piece of art..... Big fan of your time lapse vids..... Thank you 😀😀😀

[@redblue40rc33]

Next time use wax on heated stud..... capillary action wick's the melt wax down into threads....old diesel mechanic trick... literally comes by hand

[@mobiledevto]

Ahh c'mon Davin.. this was no challenge. How about a part not easily accessible, two steel rusted components that have been stuck together for 40 years. Oh and from a car that sees snow and salt.

[@ashqelon7267]

(O[][]O) , And spent half its life in the bottom of the lake!

[@Damien.D]

And is rare as hell with parts not available anymore.

[@yuzeyy7357]

Like muffler bolt/nut..

[@andycheatle1732]

Well not quite as bad as that but my Jeep XJ has been 20 years by the sea in Scotland ( Harsh snowy winters/salted roads ) - currently fighting broken rusty manifold studs - trying everything Aghhhhhhhh!

[@yuzeyy7357]

If u can, run the engine for 15/20 minutes, and then try to losen those bolts, when engine is hot..

[@johnfleury5430]

Ya good work! I place a flat washer under the nut before welding when possible thanks Take care be safe

[@ArcanePath360]

Sounds like a good idea. In his case I think the washer would have been a bad idea since he needed to get good contact from the nut to the bolt.

[@shotforshot5983]

Another tip. Esp. If you only have a propane torch, you can use your household oven to preheat the piece. If it's 0 degrees in your shop, you might run out of propane before stud/bolt is freed from a beefy steel component! I do remove all sensors and seals if at all possible.

[@firstgenerationgarage2803]

I did these two exactly procedure when I was doing my 1967 Firebird and installing the 455 in it the timing cover had two stuck bolts and one was broken short

[@andrewkiwi1]

Also I found that if you let the nut and stud cool off for a minute the nut doesn't breakaway for the stud. Then there is also the fun you have when the stud is broken off below the surface and you don't hit the centre of the stud exactly with the mig to build up a little mountain to sit the nut on. The weld locks the stud to the side of the hole. JOY, JOY, HAPPY, HAPPY. Oh the joys of being a mechanic.

[@carportchronicles1943]

This is the best thing I've seen all week! Thanks.

[@game4alaughman]

Mechanical porn

[@Idoitfortheskonkas]

DAMN!!! THE WELDING IDEA IS JUST JENIOUS ! Well done sir!

[@abdulrahmanmounla1242]

Can you make a video for a deeply broken bolt or stud this would be very helpfull

[@raybod1775]

Heat until starts turning red, then shock by hosing water on the bolt. Do multiple times and eventually it will loosen.

[@stogie0608]

Ray Bod the video just said aluminum don’t turn red it bubbles and he Recomended not to over heat it. How would you get it out then?

[@Greaner762]

@@stogie0608 theres a video by ultimate handyman on this exact topic

[@kellerrobert80]

@@Greaner762 And Abom79 also did a great video on the same topic

[@greglloyd7400]

Removal of the first bolt I agree with your process completely. The second bolt I have two issues. First one is that you never back turned the bolt to clean the threads. Second issue is an argumentative one on the usage of the combination wrench. After breaking the bolt loose most mechanics/engineers would use the open end for ease of wrench placement and speed of removal. But due to the failure of back turning the bolt resistance was not reduced.

[@AlexxanderOnYoutube]

respect for this video! guys working with their hands and heads are worth of highest respect

[@danielalamo2075]

I seen a machinist trick of using paraffin (candle wax ) for dissimilar metals like aluminium housing and iron bolt. Paraffin doesn't burn off like penetrating oils do. It worked excellent for me. I used it 3 times, lawn mower, alternator bolt and the a tach mounting nut for our Ferguson to35. Just heat gently and rub on wax. Then work bolt back and forth until loose. Repeat as necessary.

[@dholga1970]

Great way to approach that stuck screw by welding the nut. That gives me an idea to do the same in removing a seized chrome dust cap from a crankset on a road bike.

[@hookahspot8973]

I have a Snap-on extracting kit part number is BEX13A and it amazing all you need is this and 3/8 ratchet

[@queenslander954]

Great Job mate , Soaking around the thread with brake fluid first helps , it’s is a great penetrating oil.

[@as3cs3]

now the oxy-acetylene one gives me hope. I spent a day with same trained on exhaust-studs of my Yamaha XJR1300 and they wouldn't budge. I think what I did wrong was heat the stud instead of the alloy. was worried about melting it. can believe how little heat you put on that one to loosen things up

[@MadMax-cw3pn]

I'm about to tackle a molested outboard leg with two snapped stainless steel bolts level with the casing. Heat is really the only way as part of the process and hardware stores sell gas blow torches that are more than enough to do the job. Good video cheers 👍

[@hirayaman246]

Knew these 2 methods from my old man.....just used welding 1 day ago to remove a broken bolt from aluminum mount....good video !

[@breadbaconcheese]

should mention that you are welding galvanised nut which is toxic when heated (can see the coating peeling off due to heat) an alternative is to use stainless steel nut or wire brush off the gal coating, or wear respirator with organic vapour rated filter great vid btw!

[@mercer982]

Yea yea,everybody knows that....

[@namsinhrubi]

Thank you, it's very helpful for me. Hope you can make more videos like this. I'm a vietnamese mechanic

[@jmy6050]

Helpful to spray some penetrating oil into the base of the stud when its warm (not hot) to allow the oil to lubricate the alloy thread. Avoiding this will sometimes mean that the alloy thread picks up on the stud thread and you end up with a hole that's lost its thread.

[@brianiron1]

sometimes on smaller bolts that are hard to weld inside the nut I just weld a washer to the stud then weld the nut to the washer

[@howtodoitdude1662]

Welding the nut is a great idea! Thanks!

[@commanderofthenorth3348]

Thank you , My l98 intake is off and both t stat bolts are broken , great video .

[@dirtfarmer3891]

An even easier method is to quench it with cold water immediately after heating. The temperature drop shocks the rust into a powder. Keeping the threads wet liquifies the rust and it is almost like a lubricant. If anyone will try the “Heat and Quench” method, you will be surprised how often a pair of pliers will free things up. In this video, Hagerty is struggling with a wrench and I could hear the squeak of threads being galled. Yep, he will have to run a tap!

[@bobadams179]

What do you do when the bolt is broken off below the surface?

[@Tmrfe0962]

Thanks, like the weld the nut trick...pretty nifty.

[@honchoryanc]

So simple but never thought of it

[@hoonaticbloggs5402]

It rarely works. It works here because the aluminium around the bolt is thin.

Thanks for this guys, got a snapped bolt on the cylinder of my bike holding the that holds the exhausts on, got to give this a go!

[@cruiseoveride]

I have a very stuck lower ball joint in a very thick aluminum control arm. Is gently heating the control arm still the best method?

[@gentlerowdy]

had a morris minor engine the bastard never came off despite using all extractors & coaxing it with all anti rust- had an extractor broken until he was grinded on a pillar drill - studs coming with vice grip with these techniques are really modest !!!!

[@dsales2011]

I've seen people just use a drill bit and drill it out. Will this screw up your threads?

[@frankd.brennan6520]

I use to have a little slim 4" pipe wrench. Worked really well on brake bleeding with some liquid wrench

[@larslarsman]

Good, short, quick, effective. Thanks.

[@bk-gc3lx]

I'm addicted to your vids! Awesome job :)

[@craigcaggiano431]

Very cool video to remove studs using a torch and Mig welder. For the broken stud I use a couple of drill bits to drill out the center of the stud and gradually enlarging the bit size, then used the vise grip to remove stud or an easy out tool.

[@lynnhoskins5286]

great video davin they keep getting better and better man cheers

[@Netherlands031]

I don't understand the procedure, should you heat up the bolt or the big part, and why? And does this work for every common metal combination?

[@fatcat4155]

Easy peasy with the right tools and a little knowhow.

[@halucinator1]

Thank you, I will try the torch method for a bolt broken partially into a bell housing I have issues with right now. Otherwise it will become drilled and extracted.

[@jacknjanesshowtell9499]

Nice idea about placing the larger nut over what was left of the broken bolt.

[@rodescorcia2146]

what was your weld settings?

[@nicholasmatteson7467]

Is it safe to assume that a stick welder would work the same?

[@chriscogsdell6805]

Yes

[@chriscogsdell6805]

It would work the same

[@sethcormier276]

Not sure if this will be seen, but i have a question. I am working on 2005 ford f350 6.0 diesel truck 4x4. I am attempting to remove the transfer case which is giving me a great deal of grief. Two of the bolts have broken, one on top one on bottom. One bolt was so seized that it broke the aluminum just below the bolt head (i am removing the transfer case from the adapter not at the trans itself so the aluminum "flange" on the adapter that the bolt head secures to broke on one side, meaning 1/2 of the head of the bolt would not be making contact with anything upon reassembly, may have to replace the adapter too as a result). I have been using oxy acetylene to heat up the area where the two broken bolts are seized to the adapter (they are threaded into the transfer case but no way to remove them until the tranfer case is out and the broken ends are exposed, currently the broken ends are in the adapter plate through holes) as well as where the aligning dowel is seized into the adapter. However, the issue I am having is I cannot heat up all 3 seized areas at once to allow the transfer case to come all the way off. I can get a little bit of movement at each point after heating that specific spot however by the time I can get to the next area I need to heat the first has cooled. My question is, if I heat up the area where a steel bolt is seized into aluminum and get a tiny bit of movement while everything is still hot, will that steel re-fuse to the aluminum once it cools requiring more heat, or once its heated to the point of becoming loose will it stay loose for good? Also, its worth noting that i may be getting things too hot to the point that i am creating fusion once it cools. The first area i heated up resulted in me melting the aluminum of the adapter and creating a little dimple where the torch melted the aluminum. I am learning the best I can how to properly adjust the ox ac torch, basically trying to keep the flame as short as possible (working close to flammable connectors, insulation etc) while also trying not to have a very loud/strong ox or ac flow to where I can hear the loud whooshing sound. I'm not quite sure how to tell when the ox ac torch is least hot, I assumed it was when the flame isn't super strong and bright blue with a large feather, but maybe that isn't the proper indicator of flame heat? I'm trying to keep as short/weak of a blue flame as possible and avoid a strong flame that shoots flames off to the side once the main flame hits the metal. Again there are flammable components all around where I am working. Any help or advice for my novice self would be amazing

[@TyillestTV2]

Would it be better and easier to chisel off the bolt then drill it out? After that using a tap and die?

[@Formulabruce]

2 MORE PONTIAC Parts Saved ! Thanks for a great Video!!

[@AimForTheBushes908]

Great video! Does anyone if these tips still apply when the bolt is made of zinc? It's a zinc bolt with a snapped off head stuck in my truck wheels outer diameter. An I able to spray it with some pb blaster befit heating it up? Could the pb blaster cause any damage if reminents of it are heated up around the bolt?

[@cbmech2563]

I learned both of these when I was an apprentice operating engineers mechanic (1970)

[@cbmech2563]

The other part of the trick is to put a washer on it . It helps keep you from welding to the housing .

[@jjed88]

Dave, i've seen a shipfitter applied a bar of honey for lubrication when it came time to move it back & forth to remove it. Any suggestions? tks.

[@SinnerSince1962]

Ahhh... so after I go to welding school, I can get that bolt loose! Thanks Hagerty!

[@miltonjunior5173]

These are really life hacks. Cheers.

[@ov5502]

Looks so easy.. and yet I’ve been struggling for about a week now

[@prplpasn]

Instead of using a welder could I use J-B weld with a washer at the bottom? The part is still installed on the car and I don't have a welder.

[@mikehunt545]

I don't know why I watch this kind of stuff, but this is a pretty well made informative video.

[@Peppermint1]

The second bolt was really stuck. What if it was actually recessed inside the hole ? Quite probable an extractor wouldn't have been strong enough ?

[@stever5887]

Davin--From the title, I had the impression you would be removing the broken bolts using only normal hand tools. So, I still need to find someone with a welder to do this. Fun video, though; at least you removed the bolts with minimal fuss. It's always interesting to watch people perform work that know what they're doing.

[@kashmir1504]

Wow! Thks so much for the tip. It's more than informative it's a lesson for the less technically inclined

[@willyjilly9684]

I like this and will definitely try it when I buy a oxy, acetylene rig next week. Never could get mapp hot enough without killing the part before. Couldn't even finish the procedure at hand before causing some issue with the part.. I've been using Kano Kroil or aero Kroil. It really is a great product to try for frozen parts. I stopped using PB blaster altogether, and other off the shelf catalyst removers as they don't work near as fast and effective. Unfortunately It will literally damage the metal over time so get it off quick when you use it! Thanks for great post, love this video!!

[@chasemanhattan220]

If its protruding file the bolt as flat as possible. Then use a fine edge, file a nook in it until you can fit a flathead. Saves me every time

[@psdaengr911]

Wouldn't heating the stud crush the rust and give added space even after it cooled?

[@paulbeck6410]

I was replacing head gaskets in my car. A bolt broke off in aluminum. The guy who was helping me said we can fight that for a couple of hours and then you can take it to a professional or take it to the professional and get other work done. The machine shop got it out for a few bucks and was glad I hadn't screwed it up trying.

[@_BAD_MERC_]

Also, make sure you are using a torch on aluminum and NOT magnesium.

[@GenesisRC]

What parts would be made of magnesium?

[@magicone9327]

Chainsaws use magnesium. Made the torch mistake when I was 12, learned a valuable lesson

[@13bravoredleg18]

Genesis RC & FPV Volkswagen Beetle engine case is magnesium.

[@Jimo225]

just went throught this on a 6.0. diesel salt truck. Bolt that holds heater hose to water pump broke off flush with aluminum cover. So I had to drill it and use easy out whilt still on engine. easy out wasn't going to work without snapping so I had to heat with torch while simultaneously working the easy out. being carefull not to melt the aluminum or else I would have added another day of work removing and replacing more stuff. luckily I got it out without hurting anything. I am a master at removing broken and rusty bolts'n'stuff

[@AshishKumar-om2fv]

Thank you for sharing your knowledge....even though looks quite easy, I have come across broken and rusted bolts a no of times..... Thanks for sharing.

[@firstname6165]

I have sand paper, a hammer, a flat head and Phillips screwdriver will those work?

[@DannyPacheco-j6f]

Instead of a blow torch can you use a match or lighter?

[@Alienwarfare25]

Hi great tutorial but, I stripped a tank bolt and as it's a plastic cover, I won't be able to weld it, do you have any suggestions as how I could get it out; also it's nearly flush with hole.

[@186scott]

If I remember correctly using washing up liquid works as an indicator to the temperature of aluminium so when heating you don't melt/cause it to bubble

[@itchirayn2388]

Great demo. Thanks

[@DavidAKTA]

Pontiac V8 timing covers. You're a lucky person if your water replacement doesn't require you to extract broken bolts. At least one or two usually break.

[@diggumdetecting3369]

Welding the nut to the stuff remnant is brilliant! I've welded bolts on, with mixed results, so that i had a good hex to grab. Why didn't i think of a nut?! Thank you for sharing this.

[@brgable]

I have two starter bolts broken off in the block I think the welding technique will work. Any other suggestions?

[@michaelnaisbitt1639]

Very useful video. Keep up the good work. Thanks

[@Bri11ante]

Would a screw extractor work on a steel bolt too? Doing the timing chain on mine and bolt snapped off in the engine block

[@calizess]

1) On the 2nd stud I would cut a groove and use a big screwdriver instead of welding. 2) Here in Australia a weld shop will give you a 3 page invoice for that weld, that includes the power, consumables, equipment depreciation and of course the welder's labour quoted as a Nobel Prize winner brain surgeon.

[@Rudderify]

calizess that’s what happens when a socialist govt is elected...sorry to say that.

[@doctorboy5892]

Just need a cheap stick welder from Supercheap Auto mate. Use the 2mm sticks.

[@King-qv1pd]

Can you do this on a cam cap bolt that is very small? It's in aluminium cylinder head and it snapped off on the car as I was reinstalling the old bolts that are 10 plus years old. I think I will try the nut idea and use that for removing it because my snapped bolt looks like that but fits very snug in the hole and is just about level.

[@foryourheartonly]

Wow did that 40yrs ago ,learn something new again

[@Airman..]

In Aircraft maintenance we are not allowed to use open flame nor welding.. so Easy-out is the only way to go and I can't t remember how many broken studs/screws I drilled over the years

[@bstevermer9293]

Airman Induction heater??

[@Dentinvent]

What if you have a broken off bolt that is very short but a mig welder will not weld to? The metal of the broken bolt is some type of alloy that won’t weld . Any suggestions there ? Tried mig gas and gas less. Tried heating around the aluminium but bolt is so small vice grips won’t hold .

[@Beevreeter]

Why was that just so satisfying ?

[@spartacus09ful]

where would you put the ground clamp on a broken exhaust stud on an aliminum engine?

[@lumirpuza1062]

How about aluminium bolt in aluminium engine block? You have any tips to that?

[@CTmoog]

Great video!

[@zackhenry1151]

Thank you much Davin I'm a big fan of you budd and I follow your amazing videos with your amazing work always... keep up the great contents my friend

[@andrewkiwi1]

I still have nightmares from removing a whole exhaust and set of exh studs from a 911 Porsche that had been on salted roads for 10 years. The nuts were rounded off from rust and most of the studs were so rusty they had no thread left on them except where the nuts were. This combined with car being on the lift made it an interesting job to say the least.

[@johnstratton5637]

what the best way to get btoken stud bolt out like the 2 video u showed mine is cast iron lawn tractor block bolt broken off it

[@robinotto7864]

What brand welding machine do you guys use ?

[@PyroShim]

Robin Otto It is a miller

[@ArcanePath360]

I have a stuck engine cover which I removed all 10,000 different bolts holding it on (made in Taiwan) and it will not come off. The bike is less than 2 years old. I can't think what is holding it so solidly on other than a super glued gasket. I've even put strapping round it to use a good bit of strength and it will not budge. I'm at the end of my tether. I may get out the heat gun and try that.