Troubleshooting Goodman Fan Control Blower Board

Short clip on the features of the Goodman fan control board (blower board) and how it works. Also a little bit of troubleshooting and voltage checks (7:40) on a live unit that had a bad board.
If you are familiar with the terminals and what they are for then skip to the 7:40 mark and that is where I start some of the voltage checks and troubleshooting. This board was previously worked on and I found out that it is already broken so it is very much like what you would come across on a real service call in the field.
0:00 Intro to Goodman Board
07:40 Field Troubleshooting

[@alfonsobenitez8574]

Excellent explanation, I am a one arm technician, been doing AC for 16 years. After been rejected by many companies due to my disability, I never gave up. Got my state license, thanks to an old man that use to allow me to hang around with him and learn the trade, I went to St Phillips College here in San Antonio, Texas. He was a good hearted human being, I thank God for him. I was diagnose with Prostate cancer in May 2021, but I also realized that the Cancer industry is making trillions of dollars to the Drs in that field. I decided to take care of my own by changing my diet and stop feeding the cancer cells with sugar, processed food or junk food, and with the grace of God he have healed me. I kissed my Urology goodbye, went for a complete physical and the Dr said I am in excellent condition, no longer need to take pressure pills, I weight 169 lbs today, was at 190 in May. If we put our trust in God and put a great effort into watching what we eat, we be fine. Sorry I got out of the main topic, but If my testimonial can help any one out there, I done my part. Thank you for such great video.

[@johnjennings487]

Preach it brother. While I am glad you watched it...Forget the video...give him the glory! That's awesome what he has done in your life.

[@donaldcarter4324]

That is a great testimony. Glad you are doing well!

[@cosmicmuffin420]

If you don’t check out the comments you can miss a lot. So glad I didn’t miss this thread. I think it goes without saying good quality vids like this attract what they are like. More power to you Sir and glory to God. Miracles never cease.

[@jollyscaria1922]

Pleas rallredy connshion fee fan allpointed ok but need wxpaunng pcbord in sidd paeds resistnes damaged replacing valu drck pcb capcit damged not pass poqer point restantss couer cord explain pleas one yar gues pleas ..???

[@johnjennings487]

Sorry. I am not following. If english isn't your primary language then type it in your language and I'll try to translate it over.

[@clintoncrockett773]

This is the best video that I have found to hook up my Honeywell Wifi Thermostat. The instructions on this video are outstanding and not a lot of showboats like the other videos. I have spent several hours look at videos on Honeywell programable Wifi thermostats looking for a common wire connection and this video made it very simple. Thank you for making this video.

[@mikelewis5152]

Thanks, I will be checking a Goodman ARUF 14 tomorrow in a hot attic so being prepared with this video is a great help. Thank you again.

[@johnjennings487]

Thank you...stay hydrated!

[@Josh-in9jh]

Thank you for the troubleshooting and explanation videos. They really help me out in the field

[@johnjennings487]

Just my little part trying to help new guys and some.older ones. It isn't much but hopefully it helps somebody. Thanks for watching.

[@cenricocustoms6489]

Thank you so much, you explain everything clear and precise I’m glad to find your videos please don’t stop making videos I want to learn more from you! Keep it up!

[@jasonnorrie3834]

Thanks for taking the time to educate us coming up in this trade. My apprentice years were tough. Either the guys didn’t know how to articulate this well like you or they didn’t know what they were doing. The experienced journeyman wanted you to go through the hard knocks and pay your dues. I get it they put there time in but no need to feed us crap. I don’t mind working hard and learning. I feel we should share our knowledge. Most just wanted you to be there gopher cause there lazy bums. Knowledge is power and once you get it your good as gold. I ate crap for 5 years and got my mechanical license. God blessed me to pass the test and it’s been the best thing I ever done besides marrying my wife. Still learning everyday since the training was poor even in a union apprenticeship for the largest contractors. Keep up the videos really appreciate your time. God bless

[@johnjennings487]

Thanks. There is plenty out there to learn. I was fortunate that I had a good trade school and had god guys around me to help when I asked about something. Like you hinted to...don't be a butt about it. There is plenty to know and learn. Take a little time and help someone "get it". Like the bumper sticker says...Each one Teach one. Stay safe out there and thanks again for tuning in.

[@yodamanrulz176]

I agree, in that I have ran into this many times with what I call inbred subintellect goons that know that their limited knowledge is to be insecure coveted. They are academically lazy and selfish. Blessed be the unselfish purveyors of knowledge. Thank you for sharing🎉

[@ajilaamafarms9365]

Thank you, helped me tremendously, had my hvac tech buddy on the phone trying to help me figure this out after a board fire and 3 wires I had no clue where they went. My ignorance coupled with his not being able to see what I was doing ended with us not getting many places lol.

[@johnjennings487]

Glad it helped a little. Troubleshooting on the phone can be tricky!

[@SuperFabiannnn]

Love the way you explain everything. Love your videos. Thanks

[@johnjennings487]

Thank you. I appreciate it. I am nothing special but I do try to explain it fairly simple as much as possible. It may not be perfect all the time but it should be enough to get started.

[@sayyymayne4214]

Great videos, definitely helpful! Im about to graduate hvac school, im working apartment maintenance and these goodman units all have the same board. Thanks!

[@johnjennings487]

Thanks. That Goodman board is fairly simple to troubleshoot and diagnose right. Just remember...don't forget the basics. They don't change!

[@osquare8638]

Thanks for posting the video and explaining in details. Thanks to folks like you on KZbin, some of these contractors can't do a proper root cause analysis.

[@johnjennings487]

Your welcome. Like most everyone else, it is just my 2 cent worth on the subject. It ain't perfect but I hope to get a few things across to some of the newer guys entering the field that need more confidence in their troubleshooting.

[@hvaclifeatx7012]

Great video,,, always learning new things 👍🏻

[@johnjennings487]

Glad to hear it! There is plenty to learn in this field...I guarantee it.

[@MrMultitool]

Very Good video. Clear explanation of the board.

[@johnjennings487]

Thanks. Fairly simple board so I hope I didn't mess it up.

[@jimy5264]

12yr tech and you straight had my hands jumping back while you were reaching around lol. Ive had my fair share of zaps while in tight closets 😂. Great explanations i enjoy your vids. Keep them coming.

[@johnjennings487]

🤫 You know that is happening...I just edit it out! Honestly, I don't know of another way to do it except getting in there and get it. Some guys have lit me up in comments before but how do you check for power with the power off?

[@teklesenbetgebreamlak7365]

Excellent you are the best ever teacher in the field this help alot thanks

[@johnjennings487]

Thank you.

[@GotchaplumberGotchahvac]

Good explanation, John.

[@johnjennings487]

Thanks.

[@jamesc.wright9599]

Big time help John, exact problem I've been trying to troubleshoot . Thanks again man

[@johnjennings487]

Glad to hear it might have helped.

[@hkhsm359]

Nice video. Great knowledge and explanation Thanks for sharing

[@johnjennings487]

Thanks. it isn't much but i hope it helps someone out there.

[@chrisboggs4262]

This is amazing. Just saved me from having to buy/replace a perfectly good CB and point my troubleshooting in the right direction. Invaluable service you've provided.

[@johnjennings487]

Awesome. Glad it helped.

[@bobrebera494]

nice breakdown and explanation

[@johnjennings487]

Thank you.

[@cartonvera]

Thanks all I needed to know is black wire is high speed for fan motor. I switched it had low speed to black, I put it in the relay and the fan started high speed. Thanks a lot the scorching heat will not get cooled down. Again black wire high speed for fan motor. Thanks again and again

[@jessiepray9880]

What an awesome video you definitely helped me out with this thank you

[@johnjennings487]

Thanks. Glad it helped

[@erichawkins2944]

Thank you very much for a very informational video

[@johnjennings487]

You're welcome.

[@stephenpeele3309]

Good Video. Thanks John Glad i found your channel

[@johnjennings487]

Thanks.

[@attissotogbo5384]

Thank you for the video it help me a lot.

[@donaldcarter4324]

Thanks for the tutorial 😀

[@johnjennings487]

Your welcome.

[@Gameboy_Steve]

Bro that’s awesome. Thank you

[@johnjennings487]

No problem. Thanks.

[@grecohernandez3504]

Thank you very much for sharing your knowledge, I would like a video where you explain the operation and wiring of the defrost control board, thank you

[@johnjennings487]

See what I can do...

[@rayboni1622]

Excellent explanation!! Great job . I am not a tech but helped me to understand my unit ..thanks

[@johnjennings487]

Thanks. I try to get info out for younger techs to help them get started but if a homeowner learns something then that is ok too. There is definitely a skill to the trade that technicians acquire and not even youtube can get you to understand (in my opinion.)

[@jamescollins8148]

Great job! Thank You Bro

[@johnjennings487]

Thanks.

[@roqueherrera2692]

Thank u amazing as always

[@johnjennings487]

Thanks for checking it out.

[@x2xster]

Awesome information! Thank you.

[@johnjennings487]

Thanks for watching.

[@HsingSun]

Thank you for your video. In the air handler, I do not have control board, but I do have Solid State timer Delay. My ac system kept running, I checked terminals 2 & 5 is 12.1 VAC. on the timer delay. What is the problem here (should terminals 2&5 need 24 v)?

[@johnjennings487]

I think that you should have 0 volts on terminals 2 & 5 IF the thermostat is calling for the fan to run.

[@kurtdsouza237]

Love the videos. Can you do more troubleshooting videos?

[@johnjennings487]

Anything particular in mind? There are a lot of units out there!

[@igor1126]

Great explanation. My 8kw Goodman has the same board. I went through 4 of those boards this winter already. I noticed when strips are powering up I’ll will trip the 40a breaker and after that, relay on board goes bad. Just trying to figure out what causes it.

[@johnjennings487]

My brother in law had that happen one time with his. If I remember right the normally closed switch of the relay stayed closed all the time and it was back feeding the heat strips through that same smaller gauge purple wire. It has been a while since I looked at his so I forgot all the details.

[@joehead1294]

8000/240=33.3 amps. Should not be tripping the breaker. Better look deeper.

[@igor1126]

@@joehead1294 I isolated the problem to my new WiFi thermostat. Something is wrong with it. I put original Honeywell thermostat back and it works fine now.

[@hugogarcia7574]

Don't like wifi thermostats

[@southside6924]

Thank you

[@johnjennings487]

No problem. Thanks for watching.

[@user-mr8uv6ue4h]

For the relay when it’s say NC, NO and COM the way it should work for example if I want to run my Red wire ( slow speed ) from the motor I would place it on com and then place one 120v leg on NC?

[@GotchaplumberGotchahvac]

John: can you explain the NC side of relay, where it energizes heat strips & fan at the same time. Get a little hazy here.

[@johnjennings487]

Too easy!

[@PlumberDaddy]

Great video! I have a question. I have this same control board in my own air handler. I have heat strips and an air conditioner. I have installed an evergreen ecm motor which I like except for the fact that the high voltage communicating wire for the motor is always energized at the com terminal of the control board and because of this it runs at a constant low speed with no call for heat or cool. My question is: how can I wire this so that that the high voltage communicating wire to the motor is only energized during a call for heating or cooling?

[@johnjennings487]

Is this the Evergreen IM motor that replaces a PSC motor? I am assuming it is and the you should have 2 high voltage plugs. One will be for power and the other a signal from the relay. I believe this motor is designed to operate continuously but with a very low power consumption when not hearing/cooling. I wouldn't want you to mess it up so I would just say that if it isn't what it is cracked up to be then I would just put a PSC motor back in it.

[@fatboy9575]

So for a blower motor not turning off when thermostat is satisfied even when removing green terminal it’s still running would that indicate constant power to fan relay meaning it’s stuck closed? So best option to fix it be replacing circuit board ?

[@johnjennings487]

Some of those circuit boards have a delay before turning off but probably not more than a couple minutes. If it is still running after that then I would agree with you in that it is highly likely that the relay switch is stuck closed. (Without getting into the heat strip side that runs back into the N.C. switch on that same relay) I have seen a few situation where the heat strip sequencer was stuck closed and causing the blower to stay on but I think you would notice that the cooling mode isn't cooling right on that one!

[@stephenzavatski8016]

Go to 12:56 for the actual troubleshooting

[@music-writinglife1813]

Ok...Gas Goodman Furance, Sometimes doesnt start when thermostat is calling for heat..and sometimes when its running it makes a noise like the fan shuts down and starts back up before the fan actually stops..Any ideas??

[@anvibrimel41]

Thanks for the teaching, I have a a question how should I check or Troubleshooting when a Blower runs constantly even with thermostat face of and green wire for for is disconnected and the only way to cut it off is taking off the high voltage disconnect Thanks for your answer and your time

[@johnjennings487]

2 possible issues. #1 - sounds like the relay (whether on the board or just a regular relay) has a switch that won't open. #2 - Or you have heat strips running and keeping the blower on. I would check the amperage of the heaters to see if they are on. If they are ON, then you might have an issues with that circuit. Maybe something with a sequencer. If the heaters aren't on then i would turn the power off at the breaker, remove the high voltage wires from the relay, check continuity across the Normally Open switch. If bad, it would beep - indicating that the switch is indeed closed. Maybe this will help you get started troubleshooting.

[@anvibrimel41]

@@johnjennings487 Thank you very very much for your answer I already replaced the blower board an the electric heat is not on and like I said is only the blower running constantly Thanks teacher y have a blessed day

[@johnjennings487]

Awesome. Have a blessed one as well.

[@GotchaplumberGotchahvac]

Think I got it. Once contactor closes(got 240v), then backtracks to NC to pass voltage back to fan. Hence, closing fan motor high voltage circuit. Is that correct?

[@johnjennings487]

You got it. Old school way was cooling turned fan on using "y and "g" in thermostat. That meant in heating the high voltage had to be used to turn the fan on. This is why we had a fan/limit switch sticking in the furnace heat exchanger area. The same mentality is still in a lot of electric heat circuits today. The high voltage from the electric heat circuit also feeds into the Normally Closed indoor fan relay switch and powers the fan anytime the heat strip is powered.

[@DavidLee-fy7rd]

Excellent content as always. Can you replace that relay and reuse that board if the relay is burned up?

[@johnjennings487]

I think you could very easily do that...depending on the exact air handler.

[@user-vp8zq8fm7t]

Hi, I have a 240V Goodman Air handler with With just AC & this exact board. Where can I connect the thermostat wires specifically the cool(yellow wire). And secondly where I should connect the Blower wires. TIA

[@johnjennings487]

The air handler with this board (brand new in the box) should have a bundle of wires for you to use to connect the thermostat wiring. Red for 24v hot power, blue for 24v common, Green for the 'g' circuit from the thermostat, and White for 'w' from the thermostat. This board does not need a yellow. You would tie the yellow coming from the thermostat to the yellow going outside to the ac unit. Of the high voltage blower wires you are going to connect the desired speed wire to the COM on the black relay of the board and place the unused 2 speeds on the M1 and M2 terminals that are so on the circuit board.

[@The12stonesfan]

So on the flipside, it can also be a bad fan if you had blower low voltage going into the board and this assumes your board had proper 240v for the blower to run, so your fan has the correct low and high voltage applied to it but it won't run. But my thinking is it would be much faster to jump out red/green thermostat wire to make the fan come on, if it does then check board further, if it doesn't then bad fan.

[@johnjennings487]

I had one the other day that had 24v going to the 'G' ( i always check 'G' to 'C') and the fan would not come on. I also had high voltage going into the fan relay on the NO. Took the board out to check the back and the low voltage 'G' circuit was messed up. The new guy I was with looked confused as to why it wasn't working because in his head he had everything he needed...he thought bad blower motor. He wasn't thinking that the coil part of the relay on the board was bad. You can have all the high voltage in the world ready to go on that PSC blower relay but if the low voltage portion isn't right it won't work. So I showed him a "field method" of testing the blower to know it is good. Had him straight wire it to the terminal block for a quick check of operation! Fan worked and I think he is still confused 🤣🤣

[@tycobb8621]

Excellent video! Wondering if you’ve ever run into a board that looks like it never had a fuse installed from the factory? Just replaced a Goodman blower board just like that yesterday and I swear it looks like it never had a fuse. Thanks again.

[@johnjennings487]

I have not seen it personally but have seen pics of older parts that have been superceded that did not have a fuse holder installed on them.

[@thanglian]

ကျေးဇူးပါ ဆရာ

[@johnjennings487]

No problem at all. Hope it helps.

[@mr.jenkins600]

my problem is the furnace would go off when the thermostat tells it to, but 60 seconds later the fan would come on. I did my checks and energizing G does energize my fan and the heat and fan would come on and shut off normally, but when I disconnected my speed wire coming from the fan going to the common I realized that the wire itself has a steady 120 volts while disconnected, what would be my next step in troubleshooting my issue? thanks in advance

[@johnjennings487]

If it is a PSC motor then ultimately all the fan speed wires are part of the same winding. So when one gets power the others will also have voltage on them also. Soooo...if the heat cycles normally but then the fan comes back on and runs again I would let the heat cycle off. When the fan comes back on, check G to C on the furnace board. If 24v present, the fan should run. If 0v present, it would.seem that the board is turning the blower on. Make sure that there isn't an error code flashing/displaying.

[@walterromero7333]

john Im an ac tech in apts and I have this boards on goodmans burning, what in your experiene could be the cause so I ddont just replace parts but undertsand why it happens

[@johnjennings487]

Wish I could say that I knew but I honestly didn't see too many problems with this board out in the field everyday. Other than maybe some resistors overheating like on their defrost board occasionally. I had more relay switch problems on the board than anything else I can remember.

[@justingilliam289]

I have basically the same set up with Heat and AC. My fan isn’t turning off after desired temp is reached. I’ve replaced thermostat on wall and made sure no wires have crossed. After researching I’ve came to conclusion that the relay switch is bad. Does this sound correct to you sir?

[@johnjennings487]

Or it could be the heat relay/sequencer is bad and stuck closed. That could cause the blower to get power through the normally closed switch on the fan board. But if that were the case it would be running all the time.

[@amordereywestaybentallday9227]

Is the wire that's going to the relay on N/O coming from L2 from the contactor or the breaker

[@johnjennings487]

In general, I would say that you would bring power straight from the breaker/terminal block into the Normally Open of most any relay. On some new Goodman setups, the contactor serves as the terminal block anyway and that is where power from the breaker is connected in order to power the unit.

[@amordereywestaybentallday9227]

​@@johnjennings487 so what you're saying is that generally yes the power comes from L2 but in a air handler the contactor is also the terminal

[@johnjennings487]

Yes, I have seen quite a few air handlers that didn't have a terminal block. It just had a contactor that was used for both the "terminal block" for L1 L2 and also to turn on the heat strips.

[@HahahaVille]

Hello there! I’m trying to do some troubleshooting. My problem is this my heat will not shut off at set temp. In other words if I set it at 75 on the themostat it won’t shut off until it reaches 76, 78, 79 , or 89 degrees etc or may not shut off period! It seems as of lately it won’t shut off and I have to shut it off at the breaker. Here are the steps I’ve taken...I’ve replaced the themostat, I’ve checked the wires going into the themostat to make sure that no wires are touching creating a short. I’ve replaced the filter. I’m now down to thinking it’s either the heat sequencer or that after watching your video maybe the fan relay on the control board is faulty...what are your thoughts? Thanks in advance

[@johnjennings487]

I can get behind that sequencer idea if you have a heat pump system with electric heat or an all electric heat setup. I have seen very few truly bad thermostats in my days but it is possible. But that is seemingly out of the way. I would make sure that you don't have 24v going to the "coil" of your heat sequencer/relay and if it is 0 volts to the "coil", take an amp reading of the electric heater. Any amperage suggests a stuck heat relay/sequencer switch. Replace it.

[@johnjennings487]

On a side note my brother in law did have that stuck switch happen on his fan circuit board and it happened to back-feed to the heat strips and keep it on. But I would check the heat sequencer first and go from there.

[@HahahaVille]

Thank you for your prompt reply! I’m just going to replace both the heat sequencer and board, I can get both off of Amazon for less than $50.00. I figure this way I will cover all my bases, thanks again for your help, this has been a real head scratcher!

[@davidbayley5194]

Is there a way to change the timing circuit. I have a heat pump same board Goodman. No heat strip. Bower comes on 7 seconds goes off at 65 seconds. Blower is at medium speed. Live in Southern California. 65 seconds is too long. Have you changed electrolytic capacitor C1 to change the timing circuit? THX

[@johnjennings487]

Timing is set by manufacturer but i don't get (or haven't gotten) into the electronics portion enough to know.

[@ncsinkers]

Anyone know what gauge wire (standard OEM) runs on L1 from the transformer to the relay? Thanks.

[@johnjennings487]

I hadn't peeked at the side of the wire yet but if you are referring to the red wire going from transformer to the N.O. terminal I would have to say it is probably a 16 AWG or maybe even a 18 AWG. It isn't very big at all and isn't supposed to be handling a lot of amperage. I might be able to get my hands on one of those air handlers in the next day or two and confirm it.

[@ncsinkers]

@@johnjennings487 Thank you. Yes the red wire on the N.O. Position. I had the relay stick closed and the connector crimp body is discolored. Replaced the board, blower capacitor and was going to replace the connector as a precaution. Just wanted to make sure I had the correct tools before getting started. I couldn’t find a gauge size marking on the wire.

[@Pinhead_larry265]

I recently bought a Google nest and I'm trying to hook up a common wire to the fan control board currently my thermostat has an unused blue wire and have tried connecting it to the blue wire that is being used on the fan board however whenever I connect it up to the fan board and to the common wire on the thermostat the temperature never changes. What am I doing wrong? Would i hook it up to the common wite you mentioned at 7:25?

[@johnjennings487]

Sounds like you did what I would have by verifying what the system uses for common (blue) and connected it on each end for the system and nest. I don't understand exactly what "temperature never changes" means. Is it that you finish the nest setup and can't adjust the thermostat to what you want or the unit is running and is maintaining the temperature that you want but you don't see the screen change to a higher number when it turns on the unit to cool?

[@Pinhead_larry265]

@@johnjennings487with the common wire hooked up the indoor temperature on display never changes only with the c wire hooked up it never goes up or down despite the AC unit cooling

[@johnjennings487]

Don't know what to say about that except...Honeywell! Nest is ok by me but I have always used a Honeywell thermostat.

[@FredDeckerNC]

Would you have an idea on the Goodman what might cause it to be completely inoperative? It just stopped working. The only sound you hear is the click of the indoor relay. The compressor unit outside and the air handler inside do nothing, even when switching to fan mode.

[@johnjennings487]

When everything stops working i usually start looking at the main power coming in from the fuse/breaker box. If the outdoor unit isn't running but you hear the click of the indoor fan and it is in fact running...then it might be the outdoor capacitor.

[@FredDeckerNC]

@@johnjennings487 The reason nothing was working was a bad 240V to 24V transformer in the exchanger under the house. I should have done more testing. I replaced the starter capacitor and the blown transformer. I ran it on "fan only" and it ran fine. Turned on the AC and the transformer exploded. It stayed in one piece, but the gasses it gave off as it started to burn made a "boom". I can't believe this unit has no fuse or circuit breaker on that transformer!! So who knows what is shorted at this point. I think the outdoor unit also had something overheating in it. Rather than just replacing everything, I wish I could have a test procedure to find what might be shorted.

[@johnjennings487]

You can put a fuse holder in-line with the 24v wire off of the transformer and fuse it.withna 3 amp fuse typically or they make transformer with a built in circuit breaker. I have seen it where a couple wires got knicked with a weedeater and shorted together or you could have a shorted contactor/relay coil where the 24v powers it.

[@johnjennings487]

Troubleshooting without actually being there is sometimes tricky...

[@FredDeckerNC]

@@johnjennings487 I know. Thanks for the help. I've learned a lot more about the design of everything now and could probably track down a short. The issue now is the wife says to just buy a new one and you know about "happy wife..." ;) But it is a really bad time to buy AC units. Because of shortages, they are about 20% over reasonable. I would say that Trane in particular is price gouging! If I could get a unit equal to the one I bought in 2018 (which have long lead times now), it would be almost $3000 more!

[@sjcproductionsandmedia]

What if you jump out R & Y and only your condenser unit comes on but when you turn just the fan on the air handler fan works?

[@johnjennings487]

Confused a little...So your unit outside isn't working and you jumped out r to y? But if you use the thermostat only the fan runs?

[@jugears1081]

John, I have a Goodman AC unit which is 25 yrs old and has been a wonderful unit but occasionally the blower inside can't start. It just rolls slowly and if I switch the on/auto blower switch a few times it will start. The fan motor rolls fine when it's off. I changed the thermostat. That wasn't the problem. It has done this for 2 years. I am considering putting a 90-340 relay around the blower board relay. Last week, for the first time, the blower did not turn off after the compressor quit. What do you think? I write you because you are an excellent teacher. The best I know of. Please,Tell me what to test. Richard PS-Where do you flounder gig/fish? Do you go to Bolivar?

[@johnjennings487]

Could possibly be the relay on the blower circuit board acting up. Before trying to switch the on/auto blower switch next time...i would wait until the thermostat turns the cooling on and when/if the blower doesn't come on I would go to the air handler and check voltage from the 'G' terminal to the 'C' terminal on the board. If it is 0 volts then the blower isn't being told to come on. If there is 24v present then the blower isn't on and it should be running. At that point (since you say the blower has ran and you know it is functional) I would replace the board or install the 90-340 relay. ** If I didn't know the functionality of the blower I would at least check the capacitor and maybe the motor windings before condemning the board but I think you may be ok

[@johnjennings487]

And I don't know that I have heard of Bolivar. What state is it in? I do go to South Carolina sometimes.

[@jugears1081]

@@johnjennings487

[@jugears1081]

@@johnjennings487 John, thanks for your reply. Bolivar is on Galveston Bay and I was gonna invite you fishing/floundering, but... Since you are a wizard on Goodman ACs and Goodman is in Houston, I thought you might be close. The blower capacitor is new but I will check it again. Absolutely. Sometimes it stalls like this once every 2-3 days. Sometimes it goes a month. But it has frozen over the expansion coil solid when left for a weekend. Thanks again. I assume you are not near Texas.

[@johnjennings487]

Plenty of family there but I'm all the way east in the Carolina's but if I was still around home (in Louisiana) I would have to take you up on that trip. Nothing like floundering in my book!

[@TheMaximomex]

I’m confuse. Shouldn’t the orange wire on the fan relay be the common wire and the other two wires on the normally close and normally open terminals be the wires for the speed the blower motor is supposed to run whether in heating or cooling? If the contactor for the heat strips are not energized then the two wires powering the blower motor would be the two different speeds wires.

[@johnjennings487]

For this particular setup and the way it comes from the factory, you are going to use only 1 speed for the fan motor in heat and cool modes. The speed will be the same for both. It doesn't matter which speed it is , hi/med/lo, but it will put put on the "COM" of the fan relay. For the OEM board is is actually labeled COM and for the relay is will be labeled as terminal 1. The high voltage power from the terminal block will be put on the N.C. terminal of the circuit board, which is terminal 3 on the relay. The high voltage wire from the heater circuit will be put on the N.O. terminal of the circuit board, which is terminal 2 on the relay. I put all that down because it almost sounded like you were putting all 3 speed wires on the relay terminals and of course that won't work. You have to introduce power to the circuit. Good Comment, let me know if I understood you right or not.

[@TheMaximomex]

@@johnjennings487 Ok. You are right. I was looking at it wrong.

[@johnjennings487]

No worries. I want to make sure I am saying it right.

[@hayatullahrahimi4690]

You should have a neat written diagram of what you troubleshoot

[@johnjennings487]

Will try to put that in there. Thanks.

[@k.sullivan6303]

What do you guys think about this: Got a short to ground using my continuity tester on my meter... from the red 24 volt wire going right up to the defrost board on a 12 yr old AMANA Central Heat Pump outdoor unit. I isolated the system R coming from the indoor air handler where I first found the short on the R. When I checked that Isolated indoor R there was no short. So, I followed the short to the outdoor unit. I got right up to the R connection on the Defrost Board. I pulled the wire off the board to keep going with further testing downstream to isolate the short. So then I checked for continuity between the R on the board and ground, and wow...no continuity! I checked my way back on the red circuitry going backwards again, and no more short there, even with the red wire connected back to the Defrost board. Anyway, my guess is that when I pulled the R wire connector off of the Defrost board, the board flexed a bit, and eliminated the short. I have had boards do that a couple times in the past. So that slight flex of the board is my one guess, or could it have been some build up of spider eggs and webbing that was evident on the board causing a short and moving wires around to look actually stopped that problem by moving the spider webs and eggs? Ever seen that?

[@johnjennings487]

Don't know if I've personally seen that one...I did have a guy checking continuity the other day trying to find a short on a heat pump. He told me "I had a short between Y and C and O and C when I checked from the indoor unit connections. Beeped every time..." I had to tell him to look at the screen for an ohm value 'cause he was checking the contactor coil and reversing valve solenoid and it should be beeping and have resistance! 🤣

[@k.sullivan6303]

Thanks for responding John. I know the importance of using ohm values much of the time, but I already isolated a short to ground right up at the Defrost board R terminal. I had worked my way to that point from inside at the air handler. I isolated as I went to make sure there was no short behind me as I moved down the line to the outdoor unit and right to that R on that board. You should never get continuity between R and ground... so no need for ohm values at that point. What screwed me up was when my next move was to pull the wire off of that R terminal, and once I got it off, I had no short. I rechecked the wire I just took off... no short there now either. My final conclusion is that it was either those spider nests or perhaps when I pulled the wire plug off of R, I flexed the board slightly. I wound up taking the board off, cleaning it a bit and putting it back on and plugging all the wires again to it. The system runs perfect now. No more shorts or blown 3 amp fuses. The 80 year old home owner was jumping for joy. @@johnjennings487

[@johnjennings487]

I like it...It was just something that popped into my head because I was talking to that guy the same day. Gotta love finding shorts!

[@michaeltucker5191]

What does the "speedup" do??

[@johnjennings487]

It speeds up the timing for the fan coming on & off. Never really used it because it is a 65 second wait at most. Everyone can chill for a minute in my view. But I think you have to connect that terminal to the 24v common if memory serves correct.

[@cecilpemberton9556]

so i had this board burn up during storm last week i ordered a new board and recieved an upgrade oem board it looks the same but has a green board on top of processor is this ok? I installed board and powered up ac runs and cools but when my temp setpoint inside matches inside temp i want thermostat still says cool on makeing unit keep running any thoughts?

[@johnjennings487]

I haven't come across that new upgrade board yet. If it works then great. I am not following what you are saying happens now it is installed. You say it still runs after the thermostat reaches it set point inside?

[@cecilpemberton9556]

@@johnjennings487 sorry i wasnt very clear so i replaced board. Thermostat says its 80 in house i set the cool temp at 78 the unit starts and when it hits 78 about 15 mins later it shuts off. about 20 mins after that it comes back on and when i look at the thermostat it says 78 inside and my temp setpoint is at 78 as well so it shouldnt even be calling for air but it says cool on and its running

[@cecilpemberton9556]

i have changed the thermostat as well i have been an electrician for 30 years but iam stumped it doesnt make sense to me what is going on

[@johnjennings487]

Sorry for being late with this but the 4th was crazy here...I have a Honeywell thermostat and it will click on before the numbers move as well. I have mine set to 73 and the room temp will be 73 when it turns on. For me that is not a big deal or problem. I know that it is reading very small increments like a 1/2 of a degree and it is turning on before it gets to 74 (in my case). I doubt that the new circuit board would have changed anything with your thermostat operation.

[@cecilpemberton9556]

@@johnjennings487 it seems to be holding good i think it may have been more of me not being too familiar with ac operation in my 30 years as an electrician have not dealt with alot of ac as iam an industrial electrician thanks for your help

[@Jamie-lb7eh]

Don't know why, I have a Goodman AR32-1 HVAC, have problems with the blower unit works but sometimes it does not turn on and run. The blower motor has new capacitor , the blower AC unit turns on and runs but sometimes it just doesn't turn on and run , while the outside unit runs and gives no problems.

[@johnjennings487]

Hadn't seen a AR air handler in a while. Had to look it up to make sure I kinda knew what was in it. I would say that you more than likely have an intermittent issue with the fan board relay more than the thermostat...if the motor runs and it has a known good capacitor then I would focus on the thermostat and fan board. Next time you know it doesn't come on, don't turn power off or anything. Just check for 24v on the G circuit going into the board. If it is there then the thermostat is doing its job! You can focus on power going in and out of the high voltage relay for the fan and do voltage checks on it. Probably have power going into the NO but nothing coming out. (If you aren't able to check it with a meter I know guys that just spend a few bucks and replace the whole board anyway)

[@Inverselattice0]

Testing common from transformer to green not getting voltage ⚡ is there more to check or is the board bad

[@johnjennings487]

If you get 0 volts from checking the 'G' green wire and common then the board isn't getting power to know to turn in the blower. You have to troubleshoot further back...check for loose connections on the green wire at the wire nuts in the air handler and if 0 volts there then you may have a bad thermostat or bad thermostat wire that is broken somewhere between the thermostat and the air handler.

[@Inverselattice0]

@@johnjennings487 thanks for the reply, took me a little while to get some connections loose to test but it looks like I'm not getting my 24v coming out from the transformer, I think the contactor from outside unit shorted out cause failure to the the transformer which is why I'm not getting my 24v to my board and thermostat

[@johnjennings487]

Very possible. Have seen it happen. I hope it is that easy. Not to terrible to change a contactor or transformer. The fuse on the circuit board didn't pop?

[@Inverselattice0]

@@johnjennings487 no fuses anywhere on the system, if you have any information about how to add one that would be awesome

[@johnjennings487]

You can add one to the 24v hot side of the transformer wiring. I have used a "field" method of adding in two female 1/4 inch quick connect terminals and putting the fuse in there but lately I have used some fuse holders purchased from amazon. Definitely need a low voltage fuse to save you from buying transformers! Either a 3 or 5 amp fuse should suffice.

[@jamescollins8148]

The entire board get replaced with a defective relay? Correct?

[@johnjennings487]

Yes. If I find a bad component on a circuit board then I am replacing the entire board. This ensures customer peace of mind! Back in the day (when Radio Shack was alive and strong) you might find techs that could replace the relay on the board but those times are gone I think...even with long manufacturing delays from COVID.

[@jamescollins8148]

Yep we’d hit the board with a shot of liquid refrigerant and the defective component would thaw immediately LOL@@johnjennings487

[@johnjennings487]

Now that's what I call troubleshooting!

[@fishthis]

What would keep popping the low voltage fuse

[@johnjennings487]

Most of the time an electrical short. Some wire is grounded or two of them rubbed up against each other in a bundle or something. I have seen a bad relay coil (that had 0 ohms) pop the fuse.

[@caseyjones3522]

can you pull out the relay and ohm out the coil?

[@johnjennings487]

You can't really pull it off the board without resoldering it back. Most of those on board relays are a DC voltage so I doubt if you ohm out 'G' to 'C' you would get the real reading...but i have taken a pocket knife and cut the top off of the relay to get to it!

[@caseyjones3522]

@@johnjennings487 thanks for replying

[@patrickhayes3099]

I misread the title as Troubleshooting the Goddamn Fan Control Board

[@PBS-nm1uu]

how do you know it is the fan relay??

[@johnjennings487]

To me relays are bad when they do 2 things...keep something on when it should be off OR keep it off when it should be on. If you have 24v measured from G to Common then the fan should be on. Check for high voltage going into the relay on the N.O. and coming out of the COM terminal on the relay. If it is going in but not coming out it is the relay.

[@siriusscepter]

I have a problem with this board not shutting off the fan. It seems to work fine 3 ir 4 days then will run all the time. I have no power to G in fact i pulled the thermostat iff the wall and the fan still runs. If I reset power it will work a few days and do it again. Second new board same issue. Its a air hamdler with a hydronic heat coil

[@johnjennings487]

I know on the air handlers with electric heat the fan is tied to the heat strips with the Normally Closed switch of the fan board. I wonder if you have something of the sorts even though you have hydronic heat? Is there a wire feeding power through the Normally Closed switch?

[@siriusscepter]

@@johnjennings487 yes it comes off the relay for the pump. Im thinking the pump relay is sticking

[@johnjennings487]

Definitely sounds like it may be sticking...seems odd that 2 boards do the same thing. At least that is my thinking anyway.

[@willytangkere5784]

No question , this is good idea to have separate fan control board, where can I get this board ?

[@johnjennings487]

I am sure you can find it on Amazon! I have also used supplyhouse.com for some personal stuff. I think the part number for this partcular goodman fan board is pcbfm103.

[@willytangkere5784]

Thank you very much

[@dannymujica9519]

Does this mean Thermostat should be programmed for “Gas “ or equipment controls fan ? ?

[@johnjennings487]

I say it depends on what equipment you have and some thermostat manufacturers may use slightly different wording. If you have a heat pump or straight a/c then set it for the "electric" option which means the tstat controls fan. If it is a gas furnace then set it for "gas" option which means the furnace will control the fan ultimately. But even if you have a gas furnace unit with a tstat programmed for "tstat controls fan" you will not likely notice a huge difference in operation since the furnace circuit boards will probably turn off the blower until the furnace fires up. Maybe this helps??

[@Ggg77777]

How could you by pass to keep customers cooling?

[@johnjennings487]

Hi voltage -- you could take the "speed wire" off of the COM terminal of the relay and put it on the proper L1 or L2 side of the main terminal block. That would keep the fan on all the time. (I wouldn't leave it like that for an extended period just to keep the customers power bill from going up much)

[@thegoodjoker3778]

Hi, I have the same control board in my central climatisation and heating unit. I have an issue that seem to come back at each 4-5 years or so. The issue only happen on climatisation mode. Once the thermostat reach the desired temperature, the fan stop correctly about 60 sec later ( wich is normal) but the outside compressor never stop, even if I put the thermostat to off. I have to close the breaker in my electricity panel to make it stop. Once I reopen the breaker, the unit can work properly for 24-48 hours before doing the same problem. The relay in the outside compressor is new and is working ok. A tech came to check and the only thing he found to solve the problem is to change the Fan board. After that, all worked ok for about 4 years then the same problem happened again. So I changed the board again. Now, we are about 4-5 yr later and the same problem is there again. Does anyone knows what in this board can cause this issue at each 4 or 5 years or so???

[@johnjennings487]

That is a weird one. Never heard of anything like that with this board.

[@davidrivera5082]

Hi... The condenser fan turns off when it gets hot... I changed the capacitor, the motor and the problem continues... Is Goodman.. Any suggestions ????

[@johnjennings487]

Is the motor getting hit or is it just hot outside?? If it is a heat pump it may have something to do with the defrost board? If jot a heat pump, make sure that it is wired properly to the contactor and the capacitor. I have also come across wiring on dual capacitors where someone didn't put them back properly and out the compressor on the "fan" terminal and condenser fan on the "herm" terminal...made the fan run hot and turn off on thermal overload.

[@davidrivera5082]

@@johnjennings487 I connected the black wire to ground.. Brown to the fan Violet to C in the capacitor

[@johnjennings487]

Sounds like a "stock" single speed condenser motor. Sounds like the wiring is ok...I don't know what "ground" is to you but if you want to take a couple pictures and send it to me at ----------------. I would take a look at it for you. Can't promise anything but I'll tell you what I can.

[@davidrivera5082]

@@johnjennings487 Thanks Yesterday a technician came and checked the unit.. he told me need to replace the fan motor for a 830 rpm.. I Have installed a 1075 rpm and on top of that I have another motor 825 rpm and have the same problem.. This is the second technician have checked the unit.

[@johnjennings487]

10-4. It is probably some simple fix. The RPM of the motor does sound a little high but if they are all running hot that makes me think something electrical. I would be interested to see what the final fix is...

[@user-nx1fp6fv6r]

what is "speed up"

[@johnjennings487]

Just "fast forward" for the timings on the board. Makes 65 seconds turn into something like 7 seconds.

[@KARNAK47]

And they are bullshit LOL LOL, they go bad I won't let the blower turn off and sometimes I just removed them when they keep doing the same thing a hundred times. How to replace them with a real good relay. They suck for about 150 dollars or better

[@johnjennings487]

They are a problem a lot but a simple relay can take of it.

[@KARNAK47]

@@johnjennings487 you said it brother I've went as far as to remove the relay from the board replace resolder the same relay on the board. Keep up the good work brother that's all I can say.