TRP Cycling HY/RD Brake System test and basic brake systems overview

[@Desa79]

Hands down, a really good review! No nonsense, straight to the point, talked about every important aspect of those brakes. I'd wish more reviews were like this. Greetings from Germany.

[@WattOnWheels]

Danke!!! I am glad you appreciated it.

[@BosisofSweden]

Thank God for people like you! I just bought a Cinelli Hobootleg geo with these brakes on and it arrived in pieces. Now I am good to go!

[@WattOnWheels]

This makes me happy. Glad to have helped.

[@cityofhell]

Just had a set fitted to my bike just over 2 weeks and I’ve found the system working so well and the video you’ve put on has help me to understand Thank you

[@WattOnWheels]

Very good to hear. What type of bike did you put them on?

[@WattOnWheels]

Send me a pic of you and your bike if you want.

[@johnmbrown7515]

Great video! Thanks! Had long-pull issues with my Campagnolo levers and the TRP HyRds. I saw where TRP recommended cutting another cable groove but I wanted to avoid cutting anything. Changed out the arms with 3rd party upgrade arms and flipped the cable bolt around and screwed it in from the back on the unit. Viola! World of difference! Now pretty much perfect in all respects!

[@WattOnWheels]

I may need to get one of the aftermarket made brake actuator and see how big of a change they make. Thanks for the feedback!

[@pchykins6680]

@@WattOnWheels This may or may not be true but from what some Taiwanese friends told me, TRP Hy/Rd was created to be "more" compatible with Shimano STIs than anything else. Shimano brake pads are also compatible with Hy/Rd.

[@WattOnWheels]

@@pchykins6680 makes sense. All Tektro /TRP brakes use the same brake pad design as Shimano.

[@andyhargreaves5329]

Nice review. I have these on both my cross bikes for the reasons you have stated. Loads of power, comparable to my full hydro SRAM set up. Slight weight penalty over the BB7 but no dragging. Not cheap but a great upgrade

[@WattOnWheels]

Awesome to hear. I am trying to get ahold of a similar caliper from Origin8 to test also.

[@thedownunderverse]

I had never considered the complexity of in-line brake levers in a hydraulic setup before - great point! On a commuter bike, being able to brake quickly from all hand positions is key! Now just need to settle on which cable actuated hydro setup to use with my Campy shifters!

[@WattOnWheels]

The first thing to check would be what type of brakes levers you are using and the amount of cable pull they have. If they are short pull only then it narrows the option down for you.

[@thedownunderverse]

Watt On Wheels Someone has actually made a replacement actuation arm for the HY/RD, designed to work with Campy’s pull ratio. There’s threads on it on a few forums. The product is available on Amazon. Juin Tech is another option, very light and slick though the hydro chambers are sealed at the factory. Decisions!

[@WattOnWheels]

@@thedownunderverse I'll look into that option. Thank you.

[@pchykins6680]

@@thedownunderverse some say, TRP has more braking power (if used with proper brake levers) because of the bigger oil reservoir compared to Juin Tech 2-piston set. But now, Juin Tech has a 4-piston option, so maybe that one is better? But it costs 3x as much, I think. :)

[@WattOnWheels]

I am interested in trying out the 4 piston option. It would be perfect for the slope bike.

[@mickaellefebvre4036]

Excellent video about the HY/RD brakes. Thanks!

[@WattOnWheels]

Your welcome! Have you used them?

[@mickaellefebvre4036]

@@WattOnWheels I'm installing them on a titanium frame with S&S couplers. I'm going e-shifting with SRAM Etap 11speed, but as the frame can be split into 2 pieces for travel, TRP HY/RD brakes make more sense than a typical hydraulic brake system, as I can "break" the cable in 2. Your video explains the different systems very well and how to install the HY/RD. Keep the good job mate!

[@WattOnWheels]

@@mickaellefebvre4036 that sounds like it's going to be a great travel rig.

[@mikascamp]

I recently purchased a new kona sutra that has the hybrid brakes but really struggled to see what the benefit was you've answered all questions great video cheers👍

[@WattOnWheels]

Thank you! Glad I could help.

[@EfesYan]

Thanks a lot for this great overview and also showing how to install!

[@WattOnWheels]

@@EfesYan your welcome!!!

[@joeyc8546]

I love these brakes, got them on my cx/road bike. The power is fantastic and the fit and forget aspect is so much nicer than mechanical brakes. Only issue i found was you have to keep on top of maintenance to avoid lazy pistons. I noticed one piston getting slower and then it stopped on an endurance race, not an issue you can fix on the go so had to manage without the brake. Just need to keep the seals lubricated, oil internally clean too and they seem happy enough.

[@WattOnWheels]

Good tip for everyone. Thank you.

[@joeyc8546]

@@WattOnWheels super easy doing the fluid changes, did mine yesterday following the TRP youtube video and it was hassle free with the right kit, working like a dream now. It even corrected the tolerance issue i noticed with the lockout for the actuator arm, turns out it was a fluid shortage. Good intro to looking after regular hydraulic systems i think.

[@miguel360kmc]

Also... from what i understand they will work with almost any stock set up (cables and levers) BUT to get the must out of them use long levers and Kevlar reinforced compressionless cables. Jagwaire has the best cables I've ever used. And 80% of my experience comes from motorized bicycles Heavy and fast. If they work great for me they will work great for others

[@WattOnWheels]

Yes. They will operate with any cable system. But to be as crisp as possible without a mushy feeling on full power braking you will want a compressionless housing.

[@Rekmeyata]

I've tried a lot of wires over the years including Jagwire, but none have outlasted or felt as smooth as Shimano DA9000 cables...at least from my experience.

[@Yoshimi710]

Great video man i bought this without realizing how cool it is

[@WattOnWheels]

What type of bike did you put it on?

[@Magnus_E]

I 've just destroyed my "hand adjustment" circular thingy for the "stable pad" of a promax renderr (similar to avid bb5), was thinking of buying a the HY/RD. In the meantime after 5hours of tinkering i just removed the circular plastic part and I can still adjust it with an allen key. My brakes work again, but when I get some money I'll get the HY/RD; Thanks to your detailed review, I've clarified every question I had. BTW. I 've spent a fortune for a Cannondale Synapse and I'm totally disappointed in Cannondale. First, I had thread problems in the crankset, second I had these weak brakes that it turned out they can be destroyed easily.

[@WattOnWheels]

Well, hopefully the brake issue get sorted out for you in time. Sounds like you have it under control for now. That sucks about the Cannondale. It used to be one of my favorite brands when it was still made in PA.

[@ryanjofre]

Very interesting. Thanks man. Options are awesome/freedom!!!

[@chrisrobinson4214]

Awesome video! Big help as I am looking to this brake switch. Thanks!

[@WattOnWheels]

Thank you, Hope it works well for you!

[@davidwelch1981]

One more good use case for these (a small niche) is on tandems with the S&S couplers. Cables come apart with a cable splitter, nice and clean and easy and no need to mess with opening a hydraulic system.

[@WattOnWheels]

Very good point. Tandems, folding bikes, 2 piece frames. Thank you for tip.

[@koreanature]

Wow, My best friend, Thank you for your hard work in making the video. I enjoyed the good video. Have a happy day.

[@WattOnWheels]

Thank you. I am glad that it was of value to you.

[@miguel360kmc]

I just got a post mount TRP hy/rd for my phatmoto rover 2020 motorized bike came with a very very nice trp 180mm rotor only like $80 very happy. It stops me great on a 100lbs bike with a 186lb rider (gas motor) that goes 40mph.

[@miguel360kmc]

As of now only have it on the front. My rear is still stock junk. Didn't think it would fit with the 255mm rotor i have in the rear but it does! So ill be getting a 2nd

[@hayabusa27]

HY RD brakes are the best in Triathlon bikes. Its easy to disassemble when transporting the bike. You just unhook the brake cable to remove the fork.

[@WattOnWheels]

That has to make traveling much easier. Nice tip. Thank you.

[@chriskelley2075]

Great Video. Very informative-Thanks

[@WattOnWheels]

Thank you for watching!

[@richardesposito6622]

Ditto on the fantastic vid!! I am sold after way too much research! 2 questions you have a moment. Are the securing bolts 2 inches apart? won’t need a flat bar is so and can you stick DOT brake fluid in the HY/RDs and the SPIKE calipers? Or would you know the contact material is for the fluids ie. type of O rings etc. Replacing Avid bb5s on a old 95lb frame with the battery. With me on it

[@WattOnWheels]

They make them in post mount and flat mount. I think 2inch/51 apart is the flat mount. Post mount is 74mm The fluid is Mineral Fluid. Do not use DOT.

[@richardesposito6622]

@@WattOnWheels Thanks sooo much for the heads up on this! Resurrecting a 2010 A2B Velocity step thru ebike, meant to say installing a 2Kwatt hub on it! The old round Avid B5s mount holes are 2 inches center to center post mount and the hub has a 135 drop out so should have plenty of room for them. Now thinking of a 203 rotor upgrade along with it! Love the design of them and should work for the project! Thanks again and Kind Regards!!

[@SimonHBS]

Thanks for a nice review! 😀 One question. So far, I have been wary of both mechanical disc brakes but also this hybrid model, since I haven't tried any disc brake bike which didn't have a fully hydraulic brake system, which, when I brake hard, I will feel the point where the brake starts to lock up the wheel. I really like being able to feel this point clearly, especially when I’m on slippery surfaces and in traffic.. I feel like it's almost a kind of ABS.. So, my question to you: How well do these hy/rd brakes let you know when they are about to lock up the wheel compared to a fully hydraulic system? And does it make a big difference whether you are using compressionless cable housing or not?

[@axvlife]

Ok so both of the answers to your questions tie in together. The compressionless housing is the key. With it you have a great feel of how the brake is doing regarding bite point and strength. With classic cables it is mushy and is not consistent feeling between light and hard braking. Having said that, time has passed since I made this video. Even the budget brake models are doing very well now. The costs are reasonable and they work well. So it really is up to the application to determine which will work best for you.

[@SimonHBS]

@@axvlife Thanks a lot! 👍🏻

[@marcoprevitera558]

Do you think Hybrid system has the same power of Hydraulic? Great Video Pal!!!!

[@axvlife]

Short answer, no. Especially considering that a lot of hydro systems are multiple piston calipers now. But it can have its advantages in regards to cable routing and maintenance.

[@marcoprevitera558]

@@axvlife thanks!!!! very kind of you!!!! Enjoy your ride!!!!

[@CrazyAboutCycling]

Excellent. Thé Juin system is far lighter. About £100 a pair, comes with discs! That’s an insane bargain. Can save over 300g to mechanised trp spyres...

[@Rekmeyata]

What is that brand Juin? is it a Chinese brand?

[@WattOnWheels]

Ya I believe so. Their products look similar to many others. Either they just make knockoffs, or are the actual manufacturer that wholesales ro other brands.

[@Rekmeyata]

@@WattOnWheels Yeah, and that's why I've been reading about problems with those Juin brakes completely failing within a few weeks of using them.

[@AntonioOrru21]

Awesome review

[@WattOnWheels]

Thank you! It's a pretty interesting caliper.

[@tuco0x]

Hanging the brake assembly to weight it clearly demonstrates gravity is acting on it. Therefore weight is the product of mass and gravity in this case and has the units of kilogram meter per second square (=Newton). Say 'mass' in lieu of 'weight' when saying grams or kilograms. Weight is a force and when multipled by distance we get torque = newton meter (Nm) not kilogram meter.

[@WattOnWheels]

You are clearly more educated than I am.

[@BicycleTouringExplorer]

I am using the TRP Spyke Mechanical Disc Brake Caliper with Avid Speed Dial 7 Brake Levers Long Pull cable and I am thinking about TRP Cycling HY/RD Brake System with Short Pull Flat bar Brake Levers on my Soma Saga Disc Touring Bicycle

[@Grunge_Cycling]

I'm converting my rim brake road bike to disc with this puppy, just need a new front fork and I'm all set.

[@WattOnWheels]

That's good to hear. Let me know how it goes.

[@iwonder2c]

Thanks for the great, no BS video. Do these come in front and rear or on size fits all? Cheers.

[@WattOnWheels]

They are front and rear compatible with same part number. They make a regular type post mount them a more modern flat mount which is being used on more road bikes these days.

[@BicycleTouringExplorer]

Hi Watt I am thinking about going to Shimano XT disc brakes for Bicycle Touring? Front 2 Pistons Rear 4 Pistons Soma Saga Disc brakes Touring Bicycle I don't like my setup with TRP Spyke Long Pull Disc brake with Avid Single digit 7 mountain bike brake levers Or Short pull brake levers with TRP HY/RD

[@tenchimasaki7319]

Can the lever "bite point" be adjusted? Like, for example, I want the brakes to bite with just a slight pull on the lever, can the master piston be set a bit inwards for this to happen? Or it has to be fully out (like at 10:30) before tightening the cable pinch bolt? Thanks!

[@WattOnWheels]

You could do it that way. Best bet would be to adjust it with the barrel connector to make sure there is enough cable initially. Then adjust to preference.

[@dirtcheck]

just found out about this caliper. can this work with a drop bar gravel bike? mine is running Sora R3000 mech brake. thanks

[@WattOnWheels]

Fitment wise, it will bolt right on and use your existing cable. You may have to play the the cable adjustment to get it to work properly. The R3000 I believe is a short throw lever.

[@Freedom-Free]

Hi bro... I'm using flat handle bar on my 20" folding bike that originally comes with mechanical disc break tektro md c510 single actuated caliper together with tektro 2 finger lever pull. Since my bike frame is originally flat mount type (front fork and rear stay) I'm planning to upgrade my break system to flat mount trp hd c710 silver caliper very soon. Because I think it would be easier installation just to switch the caliper plug and play right..?? Regards to longer pull problem as many people came across.. My question is by turning the barrel adjuster (both caliper and lever) to bring the pad closer to the disc without rubbing them does this method solved the problem...?? (Remember 2 finger flat handle bar lever) Is this good idea or shall I completely change to fully hydraulic brake system like shimano...?? What is your thought and please advice me. Thank you Have a nice day..

[@pchykins6680]

Hmmm your case is a bit odd because you have a FLAT handlebar on a frame with FLAT MOUNTS for brakes (you're sure they're not POST MOUNTS?) Anyway, if you want to stick with the flat handlebar, then it's best to get a full hydro MTB brakes; there are cheap options from Shimano or SRAM. You might need flat mount to post mount adapters but they are cheap. It's going to be a gamble if you'd buy TRP Hy/Rd w/o really knowing if your brake levers will work with it. You might end up buying more parts. As for this: "turning the barrel adjuster (both caliper and lever) to bring the pad closer to the disc" - TRP strongly say NEVER to do this on Hy/Rds or any mechanical disc brakes. Barrel adjusters are meant to remove slack from your cable pull and NOT TO ADJUST the pads. Hy/Rds auto adjust to compensate pad wear while other mech brakes have knobs/screws for pad adjustment.

[@0s0sXD]

GREAT

[@WattOnWheels]

Thank you!

[@keithguiste2659]

Did you do the comparison with origin8?

[@WattOnWheels]

Yes I did, the video is on my channel library. I was able to do it about 6 months later.

[@keithguiste2659]

@@WattOnWheels i guess I missed it, Thanks I'll look again

[@nouvelhayiti70]

tks Bro

[@WattOnWheels]

Your welcome,. I hope it helps you make a decision.

[@Godzilla-hh8ip]

Great explanation thanks 🙏

[@Godzilla-hh8ip]

@@axvlife Yes, I am planning to buy a new bike either Triban 520 or Triban 500. One major difference between them is this TRP brake. I was curious whether it was worth spending the extra money on the expensive variant. Look forward to the review. Best wishes

[@WattOnWheels]

@@Godzilla-hh8ipIf I found the correct specs between the 500 and the 520, I would definitely get the 520. Looks like the 500 has promax cable disc brakes and a sora 9 speed. The 520 with the HY/RD and 105 11 speed drivetrain is a far better option all around for $200 more. The Promax brake on the 500 is similar to the basic mechanical in the video that only activates one side of the brake caliper.

[@Godzilla-hh8ip]

@@WattOnWheels Yes, thanks I came to same conclusion after watching your video. This is very useful information. going for the 520 definitely thanks :)

[@WattOnWheels]

Did you end up making a purchase?

[@tzbrizer]

I installed these calipers on my kona stinky freeride rig and it feels like 4 piston hydraulic brakes sometimes...

[@WattOnWheels]

That is impressive. Your build is the heaviest duty bike I've heard of these going on.

[@petercello]

This is a fantastic video, thanks a lot! I have a question that I can't seem to find the answer to....I bought Decathlon's Triban GRVL 520 with the brakes the wrong way round. I want to do 2 things; switch the brakes over (I'm from the UK and need front brake on the right), AND change to a flat bar. What sort of brakes would I need to make the conversion to flat bar? The information out there is confusing, so I'm hoping you can help! Thanks a lot for any advice you can give.

[@WattOnWheels]

Let me see if I can find the spec of that bike and I will get back to you later today about this. The changeover shoulder be fairly simple. Finding a shifter that will work is the key. Brake levers will be easy

[@petercello]

Here is the link. The specs are lower down on the page. Thanks a lot for your help!

[@petercello]

And I know that there is an apex 1 flat bar shifter- I think that would work? But it was the brakes I was worried about.....

[@WattOnWheels]

@@petercello The HY/RD caliper likes a longer pull than most road brakes. SO they key will be looking for flat bar brake levers that specifically list Long pull as an option. There are many types that have two mounting points on the brake lever so they can be either short pull or long pull levers. Avid Speed Dial 7 brake lever have gone even further and have a full range of adjustment so you can tune your brake lever feel. "Mountain BIke" Brake levers are going to be long pull if that will help with the search.

[@petercello]

@@WattOnWheels brilliant. Thanks a lot! So basically a long pull brake lever and the apex 1 flat bar shifter and I'm good to go. I really appreciate your help here!

[@shiinamashiba8348]

Can i ask what kind of brake pads are use in these?

[@WattOnWheels]

Are you referring to the compound of the brake pad, or the style/shape of the pad? It comes with a semi-metallic pad compound. The style is compatible with Shimano M515/M525 brake pad. Should be a very common size that is easily to find.

[@shiinamashiba8348]

Thanks

[@qiuhe467]

If the calliper doesn’t automatically move back to it original position after depressing brake - how can I fix that please? I want to open it but my small hex keys don’t seem to fit to help me open up the TRP body to see if its a broken spring.

[@WattOnWheels]

If it won't move back, that does sound like a broken spring on the plunger/piston. Is it causing drag?

[@artcolldrum]

Where can I buy them?

[@WattOnWheels]

If you have a local bike shop that uses QBP or BTI as a supplier they will be a Le to get them. Or if the shop deals with TRP/Tektro directly. Other than that, a few other internet sales places may have them available. Where are you located?

[@Rekmeyata]

Great video, thanks. I assume, since I already have the TRP-C Spyres dual piston brake system that if I wanted to upgrade just part way I could get the new TRP hybrid and put just on the front? Also my bike came with TRP RRL-A Ultralight brake levers, do those have enough cable pull to operate the TRP Hybrid system? I happen to like my Spyres brakes, I've had no problems with it whatsoever.

[@WattOnWheels]

Since you have the Spyres, the only added benefit would be the automatic pad wear adjustment that the hydro provides. I've use the MTB version called the Spyke. That design is a premium level cable brake. They make take an extra minute to get them dialed in initially, but other than that stick with them.

[@Rekmeyata]

@@WattOnWheels But does the TRP RRL-A Ultralight brake levers have enough cable pull to operate the TRP Hybrid system?

[@WattOnWheels]

@@Rekmeyata I can not say for sure. They RRLA levers say they are Spyre compatible which are a short pull type caliper. That tells me they may not have enough cable pull for optimum operation. They could be set up to work with careful cable settings, but they would be as plug and play as designed.

[@Rekmeyata]

@@WattOnWheels Interesting, ok, thanks for the reply. If I decide to swap out the system I'll have to check to see if the levers can handle it, if not that will probably effect my decision to get the system. Thanks!

[@andrechristianwidya7252]

I have a roadbike, im literally confuse whether to use tektro md c550 dual piston full mechanical brake, or trp hy rd semi hydraulic cable attenuated. Can you give me advice? Which is better? My mechanics here said that go with full mechanical or full hydraulic, but not the semi hydraulic.. 😵😔

[@WattOnWheels]

The Tektro C550 should be good performers. I haven't tried them but I have used the higher end version the TRP Spyke/Spyre. They work very well. Overall there is less possible maintenance sticking with full cable. But I haven't had any issues with the hybrid system.

[@andrechristianwidya7252]

@@WattOnWheels thanks for the advice.. 😁🙏🏻🙏🏻

[@WattOnWheels]

@@andrechristianwidya7252 if you do the full mechanical make sure you have compressionless cables. It's makes them feel much tighter with less lever mush. I go over the difference in cables in a different video about brakes

[@andrechristianwidya7252]

@@WattOnWheels i switch to jagwire ultraslick before.. And still using it currently.. It should be ok right?

[@WattOnWheels]

@@andrechristianwidya7252 oh ya perfect.

[@miaflore]

How would you compare these to the Origin8 vise brakes you recently tried out?

[@miaflore]

NVM I guess that would be giving away your next video haha

[@WattOnWheels]

I've had the TRP on my bike as the rear brake since I made the video. I really like them especially now that I am able to run a cable gyro down to a hydro brake.

[@mr.zen_corner]

How to align rotor sir?

[@WattOnWheels]

Ok, with the wheel installed and the caliper bolted in place, loosen the caliper mount bolts jsut enough that the brake caliper can move. Apply the brake lever so that the brake grabs the rotor. SInce the caliper is slightly loose, it will/should center itself on the rotor. With pressure still applied, tighten the caliper mounting bolts. make sure you alternate tightening each bolt a little at a time. when you release the brake lever, your caliper should be aligned ot the rotor.

[@mr.zen_corner]

@@WattOnWheels sorry I still Confuse about it.. I use Roadbike Polygon Strattos S7 disc Sir..

[@WattOnWheels]

@@mr.zen_corner kzbin.info/www/bejne/lWm3Z5aFg5uslbs follow this guide

[@mr.zen_corner]

@@WattOnWheels done.. Thanks Bro 🙏

[@WattOnWheels]

Anytime!

[@Neverisforever]

Do Hy rds require short or long pull levers

[@WattOnWheels]

They work best with longer pull levers.

[@pipelineaudio]

was that the creationist cat theme music?

[@WattOnWheels]

Probably some of the same background beats. It was stock music off of an editor program.

[@AlanPB1968]

There is an after-market modification that deals with the non-11 speed road lever issue: TRP HY/RD Short Pull Conversion Arm Installation kzbin.info/www/bejne/gKCxeqSlnNqCgdU I have this on Shimano 5800 (10 Speed 105) levers and it works really well. It is also possible to move the cable attachment point inboard on the original TRP activation arms, but this requires cutting or drilling a new cable access on the TRP activation arms. A further improvement in performance is possible with compressionless brake housing. I used Yokozuna Reaction housing but there are others with good reports too. Overall a great brake that works really well on my winter road bike.

[@WattOnWheels]

Thank you for this update. This could be quite useful for some people.

[@rustymaximus9179]

Not sure why they didn't just make all disc brake systems like this in the first place other than to make more money and render them less user serviceable.

[@WattOnWheels]

It's good that we have options. Touring, general use, and performance use all have different needs. This option does make fitting and servicing some bikes very easy.

[@terryschnell2355]

XC l

[@jakub_qba]

Sorry, byt these hybrids dont work. Just buy normal hydraulic brakes and enjoy riding. Period.

[@WattOnWheels]

And what information are you basing your quite clear opinion on? First hand experience, or just personal bias? Have you actually ever used any of the versions like this?

[@jakub_qba]

@@WattOnWheels Im racing on bike for about 16 yrs. I tried almost all types of brakes - Giant MPH, Avid BB5, Shimano BR-M465, BR-M545, M535, M660, Ultegra, GRX, Magura, TRP Spyre, Tektro IO, Aquila, Auriga - the best option is hydraulic - minimum maintance, purchase cost also acceptable (MT200 by Shimano are the best cheap option instead of mechanical). Recently I changed oil in my 14-old SLX - no wire, no housing. I only change pads, adjust once in 2 years and that's it. On my current MTB bike on 26" I have aprox. 70 kkm mileage (kmage), so I know what is 2+2.

[@WattOnWheels]

@jakub_qba So you are confirming that you have never used these. Thanks. I never once nor has anyone else claimed these are better. Where I did say the excel at is routing and maintenance on gravel/pack bikes for touring. If you actually watch the video instead of jumping to a conclusion, you would find these things out.