How to Replace Front Lower Control Arm 1996-2002 Toyota 4Runner

[@TRQ]

√ Watch the Video √ Buy The Part at 1A Auto 1aau.to/m/Shop-TRQ-Parts √ Do it Yourself √ Save Money

[@chuniquepaceno470]

Really appreciate your videos, they're very useful in helping me through the process...and the rust on your vehicle really makes me appreciate my desert-dweller's overall clean undercarriage appearance. That rust makes your vehicle all the better as a training aid as it shows the "real world" that can happen instead of someone's recent rebuild being taken apart.

[@TheBarnaby25]

You're the man. Concise and straight to the point. Getting ready to do both of mine. Man, my heart breaks for how rusty that old girl is. Never ending fight to keep em good.

[@JohnEboyee]

Thanks for sharing! For the driver's side cam bolt, I removed the 3 PS line brackets (12mmx2, 10mmx1) and loosened the 2 intermediate steering shaft bolts (12mm), then used a pry bar to slip the rack back and up enough to clear the bolt under the tie rod boot. Might have been overkill, but was relatively easy. Steering rack passenger x2 and center verticle bolt - 19mm, driver's side 22mm.

[@jaxknet]

Best video for this I've found so far! Thank you very much!

[@DerrickRandle-mv9ge]

Very good and useful information,just what i needed to get this job completed,thanks alot TRQ

[@Randallsixx13]

Thanks!

[@JorgeVelazquez09]

Dang! Master craftsman! You made it look easy. I can hardly spell cntorl arm.

[@richardmang2558]

Thanks for showing that the Control Arm bolts are what needs to be unscrewed instead of the nuts. I tried to loosen the nuts to no avail, because, just like you said, they are held in place by the offset alignment washers. Fortunately the bolts unscrewed with no issues. But on the left side the rack-and-pinion steering gear had to be completely removed to let the bolt slide out. ('96 Toyota Tacoma 4x4 with automatic transmission) Thanks for showing the 4th bolt (the one that screws in from the top) on the rack-and-pinion steering gear. That one is definitely out of sight. The automatic transmission bell housing and a casting bump for a bolt only left enough room to initially fit the breaker bar in. It was too tight to get a ratchet in there. And I had to finish the bolt extraction with a flat box end wrench since that is all that would fit. All of my ratcheting box end wrenches were offset and therefore also did not fit. It was a lengthy ordeal to remove that bolt, one miniscule fraction of turn at a time. I have decided to not re-use that bolt since it would be difficult to even get that bolt started again and then wrench on it for another half hour one fraction of a turn at-a-time. So, I measured the bolt and it is 0.510" thick, close enough for a 1/2" bolt to replace it. None of the local car parts stored carried what I was looking for. I found 1/2" HARDENED steel bolts at Ace Hardware Store "Ace is the place with the helpful hardware man!" and so I bought one that is 1/2" longer to accommodate putting a nut on the end of the bolt. I will insert the bolt from below( I will probably need to use a rat-tail file to file the threads out of the permanent nut to let the new bolt slide in) and put the nut and washers up from above. For about $6.50 I bought the Hardened Steel bolt, two flat washers, a split lock washer and a nut. With plenty of blue Loctite to keep it from ever coming loose and falling out on it's own. This way it will be so much easier the next time in another 100,000 miles!

[@oldjoe4881]

Outstanding video. Thank you for helping me successfully replacing mine!!

[@Abel-p1l5i]

Very detailed, exactly what I needed to see.

[@hectordiaz1682]

That's look amazing video to learn . I need to do all that stuff on my Tacoma pre runner 04. Thanks guys for those greats videos so I can do by myself. .

[@ciko_pancho8982]

Titanic looks like it’s in better shape than that 4Runner 😂

[@QuienesSuPa]

Love the video. Just noticed the bushings are numbered. Which go where? There are two labeled #4 and two labeled #2

[@bermbuster6]

Great job sir! Thanks I have much more info that I didnt know!

[@tonomatias4199]

Nice video master 👍 very well explained

[@oscargeorge8517]

You have excellent videos thanks 🙏

[@hjcgomez3129]

Excelente video muchas gracias por compartir conocimiento

[@ironbonessloan6100]

I see why the shop price is as high as it is. Thank you for showing a non mechanic why prices are the way they are.

[@MarcusTheDrummer]

In a previous video titled “Replacing front sway bar link” for the exact same vehicle you said the bottom bolt torque spec was 51ft lbs. In this video you said the same bolt was 59ft lbs. I’m confused which one is it? 59ft lbs or 51ft lbs?

[@chulhochang]

is replacing LCA for 1st tacoma similar to this?

[@manuguardado91]

i did my driver side yesterday and damn that steering shadt was a pain in the bunhole to remove the bolt and sleve. im hoping the pasanger side is more simple.

[@redmondibc3388]

great video

[@ДмитрийБобрышев-ю5ш]

Все вроде нормально. За одним исключением. Тянуть надо болт, а не гайку с прессшайбой! Так как на гайке спрессшайбой идут насечки, чтоб гайка не отвернулась.

[@jaysonmorris2980]

Next time put the nut back on then hammer the bolt protect those splines

[@BricksJamRoom]

Guess what, if you're doing the driver's side you can't move the steering rack up enough to get the dang rear bolt out. Grrrr

[@musicbcwalk]

That's a scary amount of rust!!!

[@reddragon3787]

That's why I don't live on the mid to east coast. Salt will ruin your car or truck.