TSDZ2 sprag clutch (crankset freewheel) replacing

When we feel like the chain is skipping and giving crackling noise at start but the chain isn't moving, it's time to replace the right side freewheel alias sprag clutch. When we feel the crankset is only slipping in quietly, probably sufficient to stick the clutch into the gear. The original threadlocker is not too good quality.
Don't use hammer to dis/assembly. The torque sensor, what is below the clutch, very sensitive.
Don't remove the smaller retaining ring, otherwise the torqe sensor may fall apart. To replace the torque sensor is more difficult job.
Check twice to the direction of rotation of the clutch before taking back.
When we are watching the clutch in built-in position and we are turning the inner ring in clockwise, the clutch has to turn the cogwheel too.
At installing the clutch into cogwheel, don't knock the inner ring only the outer. Use a tube of appropriate diameter.

[@alextalocchi]

I replaced mine today and it was easy with your tips. Thanks.

[@mcelec7603]

Thanks for the feedback.

[@mikefreiberger2040]

When driving in the new bearing, it takes a firmer hit than you might think! Give it a good pounding since you've got the old bearing to take the shock load!

[@lemoldubricoleurbaguettema5075]

J'en ai trois de ce moteur, et même avec le plateau avec le double roulement tsdz2B il reste un vélo très dur pour rentrer en cas de panne de batterie. Car toutes les pièces joints roulement carter, et bobinage son conçu pour donner une résistance forte pour enclencher le moteur en assistance.

[@italianphotographer]

Thank you for sharing this video! Sometimes the crankset of my TSDZ2 goes completely free (as if there was no chain in a non assited bicycle). It started doing it about a year ago, only randomly, early in the morning, when I am starting using the bike. Now it does it more often, but it doesn't do it when I am going up hill or put a lot of pressure on the pedals. It does it only randomly on the flat, when there's little pressure on the pedal. To be able to get traction on the cranckset again, I must stop pedaling, make half turn backways, and start pedaling again with some good pressure. Note that when the crankset goes completely free, it doesn't matter if I turn off the the battery. It will do it even if I don't go electrical assisted. Do you think is the sprag clutch, or the torque sensor? Or something else?.... Thank you!! 🙂 Luca

[@mcelec7603]

Hello! Based on the symptoms, it seems very likely that the sprag cutch is slipping from time to time.

[@italianphotographer]

@@mcelec7603 Thank you so much. I will replace the bearing and take it from there. I will keep you posted. All the best 😊

[@HolgerBeetz]

Thanks for the video. After round about 4000 km my clutch has issues as well. One thing I do not fully get: When to apply Loctite (or something similar). You heat up the outer wheel, then apply Loctite to the inner ring and then hammer in the new clutch ? May be you can clarify this step a bit. TIA

[@mcelec7603]

Thanks for the feedback. I heated up the gear wheel up to 60-80 degree Celsius and I put the clutch into a fridge for a while. Place the Loctite where the outer ring of the clutch contacts the inside of the gear. It doesn’t matter if you put the Loctite on the inside of the gear or on the outer ring of the clutch. www.henkel-adhesives.com/mx/en/insights/all-insights/blog/difference-between-threadlockers.html Maybe a better solution is if you can press the clutch with a vise, but if you work with a hammer and don't hit the inner ring of the clutch then there will be no problem. Unfortunately this is not one of my best videos.

[@HolgerBeetz]

@@mcelec7603 Thanks for the reply. I guess some "adapter" which holds the clutch while pressing it in the gear wheel will make things easier for pressing it in with the vice. May be I come up with something printed in PLA or PET.

[@mcelec7603]

@@HolgerBeetz Yes, as the diameter of the clutch is quite large, there is a risk that it could be pressed into the gears at an angle. A vise (vice) or adapter helps because it is easier to press in parallel. I didn't use our vice because its jaws are too big and I wasn't prepared enough in advance.

[@yellowsheeps]

At 6:50 of your video, you write about clutch slipping in gear. This is happening of my TSDZ2 when using a low rear cog (i.e. 16 tooth) but doesn't slip when I use a higher rear cog (i.e. 19 or 21 tooth). Is the solution to just re-apply red loctite? To clarify, to re-apply loctite, the sprag clutch needs to be removed and the area where the clutch is pressed into mid drive is where the loctite should be? Thanks for your videos

[@mcelec7603]

Yes, I've encountered cases where the outer ring of the clutch slipped in the gear. With a smaller rear cog, the slippage is more noticeable because there is more torque on the clutch. Unfortunately, you have to remove the clutch from the gear. Apply the Loctite to the inside of the gear or the outer ring of the clutch after degreasing the surfaces with brake cleaner. Surfaces should be primed before gluing with Scotch-Brite.

[@yellowsheeps]

@@mcelec7603 Thanks for the reply

[@hamakazeijn4438]

Is the kit still good? How often do you replace the clutch?

[@mcelec7603]

Probably I had to replace the clutch after 5000km because I hit the crank arm on a concrete curb. There is telepathy. Yesterday I went on an offroad tour on quite steep hills and after I heard whining from the crank arm. Today I disassembled the motor, I removed the gear with clutch, the torque sensor and pulled out the shaft too. I only noticed a little deformation on plastic bearing cage basket of clutch. Now 8000 km in the motor and the the torque sensor coil part is very worn. I think, its service life is maximum 10000 km. After reassembly the whining is gone. I hope i can upload the video about the installation soon. Otherwise, I really like this mid-engine, but unfortunately the torque sensor is a very weak mechanism and the maximum torque allowed for the clutch is very limited. If you have very strong legs and climb up hills a lot the clutch will not last long.

[@rob-rh4jd]

Hello nice video ,,I have a dubbel cracking noise wen I normal peddling it is no problem but wen stop and start peddling Then I hear end feel that krack ,, do you have any idea ? I already change the spragclutch but stil de same problem.krg rob

[@mcelec7603]

Hello, thank you. There is another freewheel in the blue nylon gear. Maybe slipping it can cause a bit of noise, but it carries much less torque than a sprag clutch. Anyway, I also get this kind of noise from time to time, even when I'm riding with the motor off and I suspect the rear sprocket freewheel. Try it even when the assist is off.

[@rob-rh4jd]

@@mcelec7603 hello thanks for the reply, i already change the rear sproket its the same result, ith must be in de motor somwere🤷‍♂ ennyway i,am gone change the bleu gear in a bras one and i keep you informed ,,krg Rob

[@rob-rh4jd]

Hello I fond the problem it was the blue nylon gear, I change this in a bras one and problem fixt. keg rob

[@mcelec7603]

@@rob-rh4jd Super! Thx for the update.

[@TimInertiatic]

My main gear will not come off as easy as that! I can't get it to move at all and need to fabricate a puller

[@pierrepesty]

Hi! How did you make this puller?

[@InfiltrateIndustries]

i can't get mine to budge either (coaster brake version) - did you get yours off?

[@TimInertiatic]

@@InfiltrateIndustries I used a gear puller, using the spider to pull against.... carefully

[@fredglobal9675]

what is the name of the tool min 4.09? thank you

[@mcelec7603]

External circlip plier. If you want to remove a circlip from a hole you will need an internal circlip plier.

[@fredglobal9675]

@@mcelec7603 thank you

[@marinosxynarianos9375]

Video no play.......delete.....

[@mcelec7603]

Really. :( It's something KZbin issue, the video earlier was playable in 1080p , and now only in 360p.